Some people have made me aware, that I haven't given all the torque settings. So they are as follows. Steering head adjuster nut 40nm, slacken off re-torque to 15nm. Add washer, then locking nut 40nm. Top yoke nut 90nm.
great video! for the Triumph sprint st1050 there is a small difference - the top yoke nut needs to be tightened just to 65nm. Here's a breakdown of why each step is important: High torque (40 Nm): This high torque overcomes any manufacturing tolerances or slight imperfections in the bearing races. It ensures everything is seated firmly in place. Slackening: By slightly loosening the adjuster nut after the initial high torque, you relieve the excessive pressure that was used for seating. Lower torque (15 Nm): This final torque value establishes the preload on the bearings. It's important not to over-tighten at this stage, as that can put undue stress on the bearings and increase friction. In essence, the higher torque is used for initial seating, and the final lower torque sets the appropriate operating pressure on the bearings.
Great stuff!! It's nice to see clean and unhurried work. Also thank you for using the right tools for the job and for using the correct tightening sequence! I have seen some people on here hammering at these beautiful aluminum nuts to loosen and tighten them and It hurts to see it. Cheers. Setting up my own channel and your camera work is a great inspiration. I do this a bit different and take the whole front end apart. Gives a better view of the inner races and makes it a bit easier to clean and lube. But this works too! Thanks for sharing.
I wouldn't have the courage to do ANY of this, even though I fancy myself handy with a wrench. But this is amazing to see, because it's educating. And I am more informed (and as an extension, infinitely more annoying) when I take my boy into service. I'd rather be annoying than take the chance of having a less than ideal mechanic messing up my bike. Thanks a lot for your patient and ridiculously informative videos. :)
Go on have a go, I would describe myself the same as you. No formal training, but quite handy. I like ' ridiculously informative' 😀 Think it's important to get the camera right in there, I want people to see the detail.
@@notamotorbikemechanic it's very well done. Pat yourself on the back. And there's no way I'm doing the bearing regrease or taking the tank apart by myself. But since I've bought a used bike your videos gave me great insight on what all I should keep an eye out for.
Hmm maybe, but probably not. Unless the brake lines emptied, which is unlikely as they are under vacuum, when the bars are put back it will just settle in the normal position. (I think lol)
swapping out my '07 bearings with tapered-rollers, but there's no relief inside the headstock to tap out the upper outside race. no lip to apply the drift. is my only solution to cut a slot in the race with a rotary cut-off wheel to give it slack? i've done similar to the lower inner stem race... cut slot, pry open to relieve pressure, slide off.
Krazie Ivan, hmm the workshop manual doesn't give a lot of info, it says "using a suitable drift, evenly and progressively drive the bearing race from the frame headstock. remove the inner race and dust seal from the bottom yoke using a puller or press" I've never done this job , so can't give you much advice. The only think I would say, I would try a cautious approach first. If you have done similar, and are confident cutting it...go for it. But I would really try a less aggressive approach first.
@@notamotorbikemechanic right-o, thx for the reply. will see if i can't create a bit of lip/edge in the race itself, let it cool, then heat the outer/frame/headstock with a heatgun & try again with the drift in the newly created indentation. least then i'm not cutting too near the frame.
I'm curious how many miles/km your bike has traveled and do you ride all year or just a summer blast through the twisties. You obviously enjoy tinkering. :)
I put the bike on the ground, that said I’m not sure if it would make a difference. Torque is a clamping force, so not sure the weight of the bike would influence that (remember I’m no expert)
Some people have made me aware, that I haven't given all the torque settings. So they are as follows.
Steering head adjuster nut 40nm, slacken off re-torque to 15nm.
Add washer, then locking nut 40nm.
Top yoke nut 90nm.
great video! for the Triumph sprint st1050 there is a small difference - the top yoke nut needs to be tightened just to 65nm.
Here's a breakdown of why each step is important:
High torque (40 Nm): This high torque overcomes any manufacturing tolerances or slight imperfections in the bearing races. It ensures everything is seated firmly in place.
Slackening: By slightly loosening the adjuster nut after the initial high torque, you relieve the excessive pressure that was used for seating.
Lower torque (15 Nm): This final torque value establishes the preload on the bearings. It's important not to over-tighten at this stage, as that can put undue stress on the bearings and increase friction.
In essence, the higher torque is used for initial seating, and the final lower torque sets the appropriate operating pressure on the bearings.
Great stuff!! It's nice to see clean and unhurried work. Also thank you for using the right tools for the job and for using the correct tightening sequence! I have seen some people on here hammering at these beautiful aluminum nuts to loosen and tighten them and It hurts to see it. Cheers.
Setting up my own channel and your camera work is a great inspiration.
I do this a bit different and take the whole front end apart. Gives a better view of the inner races and makes it a bit easier to clean and lube. But this works too!
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, look forward to seeing your content 🏍
I wouldn't have the courage to do ANY of this, even though I fancy myself handy with a wrench. But this is amazing to see, because it's educating. And I am more informed (and as an extension, infinitely more annoying) when I take my boy into service. I'd rather be annoying than take the chance of having a less than ideal mechanic messing up my bike. Thanks a lot for your patient and ridiculously informative videos. :)
Go on have a go, I would describe myself the same as you.
No formal training, but quite handy.
I like ' ridiculously informative' 😀
Think it's important to get the camera right in there, I want people to see the detail.
@@notamotorbikemechanic it's very well done. Pat yourself on the back. And there's no way I'm doing the bearing regrease or taking the tank apart by myself. But since I've bought a used bike your videos gave me great insight on what all I should keep an eye out for.
I suppose that's a bonus of living in wet Wales, plenty of time to play with your spanners 😂, Nice job , well explained.
Thanks 👍
Thanks keep the videos coming
Another very good video, Nice to someone use a torque wrench correctly, one click and its done. well done
Благодарю ✌🏽
Thank you for your videos! great videos!
Its ok they are on ebay under speed triple stem nut socket
Very helpful thank you!
Where can i buy the socket for the locking nuts. thanks
Great video.. would the brake reservoir not get air in the pipe from being inverted?
Hmm maybe, but probably not. Unless the brake lines emptied, which is unlikely as they are under vacuum, when the bars are put back it will just settle in the normal position. (I think lol)
Ciao ma tutte le Speed triple hanno i cuscinetti di sterzo a sfere? La mia speed triple r 2017 non so se sono a sfere o a rulli. Ciao grazie.
I would guess triples of a similar age, would have the same bearings.
Nice vid..what stand are you using??? Where you based s Wales
Hi, thanks for watching.
It’s an EazyRizer stand.
I’m in Swansea👍🏻
swapping out my '07 bearings with tapered-rollers, but there's no relief inside the headstock to tap out the upper outside race. no lip to apply the drift. is my only solution to cut a slot in the race with a rotary cut-off wheel to give it slack? i've done similar to the lower inner stem race... cut slot, pry open to relieve pressure, slide off.
Krazie Ivan, hmm the workshop manual doesn't give a lot of info, it says "using a suitable drift, evenly and progressively drive the bearing race from the frame headstock. remove the inner race and dust seal from the bottom yoke using a puller or press"
I've never done this job , so can't give you much advice. The only think I would say, I would try a cautious approach first. If you have done similar, and are confident cutting it...go for it. But I would really try a less aggressive approach first.
@@notamotorbikemechanic right-o, thx for the reply. will see if i can't create a bit of lip/edge in the race itself, let it cool, then heat the outer/frame/headstock with a heatgun & try again with the drift in the newly created indentation. least then i'm not cutting too near the frame.
I'm curious how many miles/km your bike has traveled and do you ride all year or just a summer blast through the twisties. You obviously enjoy tinkering. :)
Not sure of the mileage about 15000 I think. Ill ride all year if the weather is ok 👌
Is the weight in the bike throughout the entire headstock tightening process or off the ground? My manual doesn't mention which.
I put the bike on the ground, that said I’m not sure if it would make a difference. Torque is a clamping force, so not sure the weight of the bike would influence that (remember I’m no expert)
Il morsetto del manubrio ( riser) l'hai montato al contrario.
Maybe, not sure it really matters 🤔
Top
top yoke pinch bolt 26nm
As far as I’m aware, they are 20nM
very helpful thank you!