My jeep died at the gas pump with the same symptoms, same year and model. This video was the answer to my prayers!! You are the reason we viewers save hundreds of dollars on bs repairs on the shit vehicles we own, THANK YOU 🙏 Follow and Subscribe this man!!
My Jeep Grand Cherokee WK2 2012 is doing the exact same thing. Yesterday, I got home from work, parked it, and two hours later, I wanted to go somewhere, but it wouldn't start. I turn the key, and nothing happens; the starter motor doesn't even turn. The battery is fully charged. It did this 3 years ago as well, but back then, it took the mechanics 2 months to figure it out and fix it. But now the problem is back. It just happens out of nowhere with no prior warning. I did what you showed in the video, and it started twice, but after that, nothing again. Three years ago, they also checked the starter motor, battery, alternator, and everything was fine. Last year, I took it for servicing and asked them to check everything again, and everything was fine then too. It's like turning the key in a car with no power, except that the interior lights work. It's a very frustrating problem. What could this be? What's causing it? I would be grateful if you could answer, please.
I understand how frustrating this can be, especially when the problem seems to come out of nowhere. Given that the starter motor, battery, and alternator have all been checked and are working fine, the issue might be related to something else, like the ignition switch, starter relay, or even a grounding problem. With the Jeep Grand Cherokee WK2, one common issue is the WIN module (Wireless Ignition Node) or the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module). Either of these can cause intermittent no-start conditions like the one you're experiencing. Since you've had some success after trying what was shown in the video, it suggests there may be a loose connection or a control module acting up. Here’s what I’d recommend checking: WIN Module: Sometimes, it doesn’t send the correct signal to the starter. Starter Relay or TIPM: The TIPM can develop faults that cause no-start conditions. Try swapping the starter relay with another of the same type from the fuse box to see if that helps. Ground Connections: Poor grounding can cause electrical issues like this. Make sure the engine ground straps are clean and secure. If none of these solve the issue, running a more thorough diagnostic scan could help find the root cause. If you have a tool like Autel, it might be able to read any error codes or communication faults that could explain what’s going on.
The fuel pump relay is directly soldered to the engine fuse box circuit board aka TIPM. I had to completely disassemble the fuse box. It's in thin layers pancaked all together to make one complete fuse box. 2011 TIPM does have it soldered. Pos Jeep/Dodge Chrysler fix is cutting the bottom fuse box wires & tapping into the harness wires & installing at 50amp (large) external relay with a connected 20am mini fuse. There's also a 20am mini fuse at the mutifuse aka block fuse (+ charging/junk post) thick positive wire. It's hidden wrapped in electrical tape. Hard to see but can be felt by hand & it stick out as "wtf is that" The TIPM will shut down no matter where you're driving. DGAF. Shuts off at red lights, yields, parked, waiting for the train to pass, in a drive thru, at idling & the worst scariest is when at highway speeds will turn off. The digital guages & electronics still work (HVAC, stereo, sun/moon roof, windows, head lights all work. The analog needles (RPM, speed, coolant) drop dead. Fck you Dodge,Jeep Chrysler Mopar. A known factory problem that they don't fix other than tell owners they can buy a new TIPM for $1,500.00 programming is extra. Jeep/Chrysler, Dodge Mopar is a pos
Damn that's smart thinking on your behalf. The point of a fuse box is to change bad fuses and relays. Who said hey guys, let's put circuits on the inside of it😂 That way, when something f's up. We can just replace the whole box. And to make matters worse, it's not even plug and play😢. I get calls all the time. Hey, I need a key. I get there and program a key, and they then say we'll hear the old key it don't work ither. Then we argue overpayment dispute. I did my job, but they didn't tell me their old key stopped working one day. Tippm or win module every time.
Lol those tipms are worse than that! They unnecessarily embed some relays like the fuel pump relay that eventually goes bad, instead of just swapping a relay guess what needs to be done? That's right! Replacement tipm! They now offer a bypass similar to what I did here, crazy!
@globalcommerce7654 Yea you gave me a huge ideal here. I never thought about that but I'm a locksmith not a mechanic. But your average mechanic here doesn't even know what 12volts is more less read a diagram and jump this connection 🤣
@@globalcommerce7654 oh so your basically doing automotive electrician work. I don't have any certification but I did cellphone repairs and micro soldering for 13 years. So when a locksmith reached out to Me on a $800 European key job. I saw where the money was at. A simple soldering job on a audi was the day I swapped carriers 2 years ago. And I'm already killing the best locksmiths in my city because they know nothing about soldering and nothing about electronics.
Didn’t see any diagnostics. Are you sure this vehicle didn’t have codes cleared recently??? Also why wouldn’t you solder on ends on your wire. De-pin under the fuse box out your new wire in on the bottom fuses??
I did diags off screen but explained process at the beginning of the video. Yes many codes were present as previous shop removed many items including ecm. After reinstalling everything and clearing codes, and after attempting crank only wcm showed code for low battery in key which is why it was inserted. Check my pinned link on my automotive cabling guide, I explained in detail. Short version, I'm pro solder, however NONE of modern Automotive cable to power sources are soldered, ALWAYS crimped, check as many cars as you can find including the power cable to this tipm. Correct solution is replace tipm, 2nd open and repair trace, these have a difference in price and time to properly implement. Customer had a choice, wanted the cheapest method that would work and that's what was provided. Appreciate the feedback.
Wow. You’re awesome. I need to do this today but one question: you don’t show how to connect the wire to the pin. Solder? Just wrap at base of pin? PLEASE help and thanks for stuff like this!!!
Hey. Tried the bypass. Used 18 gauge wire in the slot of the pin and connected it directly to the relay as per the video. Still, when I try to start the car, there is one click and then nothing. The car has full juice just like in your video. Any other suggestions? I’m really stuck here.
I have something similar with the check engine light flashing but all I get is a crank no start. I checked every fuse/relay, I have spark,fuel,correct timing, correct/ same compression at every piston. Any thoughts? No codes either
To make a fire you need fuel, air, and spark.. to do this in a car you also need compression in all cylinders.. If it doesn't start you are guaranteed missing 1 or more of the above.. You didn't mention injectors..
@@jasonsoto6163then it goes back to my first reply.. you also need to test injectors with a load such as test light.. but if it won't start with alternative fuel goes back to spark, air (intake leak?), or compression /timing NO OTHER OPTIONS
@@globalcommerce7654 I did notice on my scanner that the Output shaft rpms are at 65k rpms and at one point it started then died instantly. Would go up to maybe 500 rpms max and the headlights would come on then boom died right away. I thought it was a safety feature but nope. New key, No anti-theft on. All systems say ok to crank. Nothing makes sense… check engine light just blinks nonstop
modern Automotive wiring/ crimping:
ruclips.net/video/OLCm0AZbedE/видео.htmlsi=cU-_k4FcAWDU3ORl
My jeep died at the gas pump with the same symptoms, same year and model. This video was the answer to my prayers!! You are the reason we viewers save hundreds of dollars on bs repairs on the shit vehicles we own, THANK YOU 🙏 Follow and Subscribe this man!!
I love to hear this! Glad to help!
How did you connect the 18 gauge to the pin? I don’t wanna screw this up.
I’m in this exact situation as we speak
My Jeep Grand Cherokee WK2 2012 is doing the exact same thing. Yesterday, I got home from work, parked it, and two hours later, I wanted to go somewhere, but it wouldn't start. I turn the key, and nothing happens; the starter motor doesn't even turn. The battery is fully charged. It did this 3 years ago as well, but back then, it took the mechanics 2 months to figure it out and fix it. But now the problem is back. It just happens out of nowhere with no prior warning. I did what you showed in the video, and it started twice, but after that, nothing again. Three years ago, they also checked the starter motor, battery, alternator, and everything was fine. Last year, I took it for servicing and asked them to check everything again, and everything was fine then too. It's like turning the key in a car with no power, except that the interior lights work. It's a very frustrating problem. What could this be? What's causing it? I would be grateful if you could answer, please.
I understand how frustrating this can be, especially when the problem seems to come out of nowhere. Given that the starter motor, battery, and alternator have all been checked and are working fine, the issue might be related to something else, like the ignition switch, starter relay, or even a grounding problem.
With the Jeep Grand Cherokee WK2, one common issue is the WIN module (Wireless Ignition Node) or the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module). Either of these can cause intermittent no-start conditions like the one you're experiencing. Since you've had some success after trying what was shown in the video, it suggests there may be a loose connection or a control module acting up.
Here’s what I’d recommend checking:
WIN Module: Sometimes, it doesn’t send the correct signal to the starter.
Starter Relay or TIPM: The TIPM can develop faults that cause no-start conditions. Try swapping the starter relay with another of the same type from the fuse box to see if that helps.
Ground Connections: Poor grounding can cause electrical issues like this. Make sure the engine ground straps are clean and secure.
If none of these solve the issue, running a more thorough diagnostic scan could help find the root cause. If you have a tool like Autel, it might be able to read any error codes or communication faults that could explain what’s going on.
The fuel pump relay is directly soldered to the engine fuse box circuit board aka TIPM.
I had to completely disassemble the fuse box. It's in thin layers pancaked all together to make one complete fuse box.
2011 TIPM does have it soldered. Pos Jeep/Dodge Chrysler fix is cutting the bottom fuse box wires & tapping into the harness wires & installing at 50amp (large) external relay with a connected 20am mini fuse.
There's also a 20am mini fuse at the mutifuse aka block fuse (+ charging/junk post) thick positive wire. It's hidden wrapped in electrical tape. Hard to see but can be felt by hand & it stick out as "wtf is that"
The TIPM will shut down no matter where you're driving. DGAF. Shuts off at red lights, yields, parked, waiting for the train to pass, in a drive thru, at idling & the worst scariest is when at highway speeds will turn off. The digital guages & electronics still work (HVAC, stereo, sun/moon roof, windows, head lights all work. The analog needles (RPM, speed, coolant) drop dead.
Fck you Dodge,Jeep Chrysler Mopar. A known factory problem that they don't fix other than tell owners they can buy a new TIPM for $1,500.00 programming is extra.
Jeep/Chrysler, Dodge Mopar is a pos
Yes most common problem on dodge is tipm, all techs replace those/fuel pump relays all the time..
I second that F jeep dodge Chrysler trash!
that's the difference between a doctor and a parts changer👍👍👍👍👍
No signs of bad pcm anywhere
You are the man!!! 💪
Damn that's smart thinking on your behalf. The point of a fuse box is to change bad fuses and relays. Who said hey guys, let's put circuits on the inside of it😂 That way, when something f's up. We can just replace the whole box. And to make matters worse, it's not even plug and play😢. I get calls all the time. Hey, I need a key. I get there and program a key, and they then say we'll hear the old key it don't work ither. Then we argue overpayment dispute. I did my job, but they didn't tell me their old key stopped working one day. Tippm or win module every time.
Lol those tipms are worse than that! They unnecessarily embed some relays like the fuel pump relay that eventually goes bad, instead of just swapping a relay guess what needs to be done? That's right! Replacement tipm! They now offer a bypass similar to what I did here, crazy!
@globalcommerce7654 Yea you gave me a huge ideal here. I never thought about that but I'm a locksmith not a mechanic. But your average mechanic here doesn't even know what 12volts is more less read a diagram and jump this connection 🤣
@@segounlocks5029 lol if it makes you feel better I'm not a mechanic either 😛 I do however hold a few I.T. certifications
@@globalcommerce7654 oh so your basically doing automotive electrician work. I don't have any certification but I did cellphone repairs and micro soldering for 13 years. So when a locksmith reached out to Me on a $800 European key job. I saw where the money was at. A simple soldering job on a audi was the day I swapped carriers 2 years ago. And I'm already killing the best locksmiths in my city because they know nothing about soldering and nothing about electronics.
And guess what was recalled with HORRENDOUS delays??? Fuel pump relay. Will never buy another Jeep
Thanks you so much, keep up the good work 🙌
No problem 👍
Nice work ❤
Didn’t see any diagnostics. Are you sure this vehicle didn’t have codes cleared recently??? Also why wouldn’t you solder on ends on your wire. De-pin under the fuse box out your new wire in on the bottom fuses??
I did diags off screen but explained process at the beginning of the video. Yes many codes were present as previous shop removed many items including ecm. After reinstalling everything and clearing codes, and after attempting crank only wcm showed code for low battery in key which is why it was inserted. Check my pinned link on my automotive cabling guide, I explained in detail. Short version, I'm pro solder, however NONE of modern Automotive cable to power sources are soldered, ALWAYS crimped, check as many cars as you can find including the power cable to this tipm. Correct solution is replace tipm, 2nd open and repair trace, these have a difference in price and time to properly implement. Customer had a choice, wanted the cheapest method that would work and that's what was provided.
Appreciate the feedback.
Wow. You’re awesome. I need to do this today but one question: you don’t show how to connect the wire to the pin. Solder? Just wrap at base of pin? PLEASE help and thanks for stuff like this!!!
Hi, full details here: ruclips.net/video/ERtp5rM9Fe0/видео.htmlsi=5EYs1u4geLfHgFI8
Hey. Tried the bypass. Used 18 gauge wire in the slot of the pin and connected it directly to the relay as per the video. Still, when I try to start the car, there is one click and then nothing. The car has full juice just like in your video. Any other suggestions? I’m really stuck here.
I have something similar with the check engine light flashing but all I get is a crank no start. I checked every fuse/relay, I have spark,fuel,correct timing, correct/ same compression at every piston. Any thoughts? No codes either
To make a fire you need fuel, air, and spark.. to do this in a car you also need compression in all cylinders..
If it doesn't start you are guaranteed missing 1 or more of the above..
You didn't mention injectors..
@@globalcommerce7654 oh sorry, yes injectors are firing. Checked with muli meter and long screw driver. It also wont start with starting fluid
@@jasonsoto6163then it goes back to my first reply.. you also need to test injectors with a load such as test light.. but if it won't start with alternative fuel goes back to spark, air (intake leak?), or compression /timing NO OTHER OPTIONS
@@globalcommerce7654 I did notice on my scanner that the Output shaft rpms are at 65k rpms and at one point it started then died instantly. Would go up to maybe 500 rpms max and the headlights would come on then boom died right away. I thought it was a safety feature but nope. New key, No anti-theft on. All systems say ok to crank. Nothing makes sense… check engine light just blinks nonstop
@@jasonsoto6163sounds like engine/ mechanical issue.. that's the extent of my knowledge sorry, I'm only electrical..
So overall it was the relay?
Yes
What gauge wire is that. might have to do this to my jeep
18ga and up should do