How To Collimate Your Telescope
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- Опубликовано: 21 дек 2012
- A to Z on collimation of a XT10G ORION SKYQUEST. The best part of this video is the wire tie mechanical way to set up a secondary mirror versus visual.Thanks to astronomyshed and others it is all coming together. Please let me know if this is helpful. Thanks for Watching. PLEASE SUBSCRIBE
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Best video on collimation I've seen hands down. Thanks for showing all the details especially about squaring up the focuser and secondary, finding the dead center of the secondary and using the wire ties to get it dialed in. In addition to all the information on collimation I loved seeing all the mod's you have done to your scope. Good stuff man, good stuff!
arlo12345678910 Thanks... There,s alot of good ones out there. tried to put it all in one spot. Hope it helps.
That’s hands down the best collimating video I’ve seen. Your attention to detail is impressive. Thanks for putting all your knowledge together for others to learn from. Best wishes from Liverpool, England 👍
You certainly put a lot of effort into that Video...
Nice Job....a ton of Info... I will have to watch it a number of time to absorb all of your tips.
Liked and Subscribed ....Thanks a Bunch, I'm 70 years old and I just bought my first Telescope, a Zhumell Z12, just put it together this afternoon.... I live in Oregon and don't expect much use until I take it to Arizona with me in the future. Thanks again !
Thank you for making this video, it's the best I've found so far.
Collimation is extremely important in reflecting scopes. Again a huge thank you.
Thanks for this video.
You thought it out in minute details, with new techniques and squeezing every bit of performance that you could out of that scope.
Bravo.
Chicago Astronomer Joe
Thank You . Still have that scope. would love to get the same one in a 16 in.
Very good!!! The seconday rotation is perfectly explained.
Excellent video. A lot of what you said made sense and you also show why. I learned a lot about collimation today. Liked!
Some damn fine ideas in here. Fantastic video! Stuff I hadn't thought of.
I've been doing pretty well collumating just by understanding the geometry of my reflector, and finding ways to increase the accuracy of the adjustments, but I've learned a couple of things from watching you use your system.
My current scope has never been very far out of adjustment, but I now have a better idea of where to begin if it ever gets there! Lol!
Thank you for sharing your experience of the subject!
I love the cumulative results when a precision instrument is calibrated perfectly!
The optical telescope is the greatest tool ever developed if you consider it's ability to inspire so many people.
Many brilliant minds gazed upon Saturn and immediately found themselves driven to learn about a quite unique subject. The universe! Lol!
Very much similar in scale to an ant, who maps out an entire continent, for example, and continues on to understand the oceans.
too bad it's so cloudy tonight. maybe by morning i can watch the Venus, mars, Jupiter, Saturn, grouping in the east.
I will certainly recommend your channel to everyone.
Thanks again!
Excellent tutorial, many thanks colegue!
Thank you. Did the wire tie help?
Thanx! I've been fighting with mirror last 3 days :) this one is gooooood explanation full of fine tips.
one of the best tutorials i seen about colimation, thank you so much.
Almost a decade later and I'm gonna say it again. This is STILL the best collimation video I've seen, and I've watch a ton of em. That barlow trick is gold and I haven't seen anyone else use or suggest it. Thank you.
That so funny Im working on my telescope right now. Thanks ....But the best part to me is the wire tie measurement to square up the secondary. ;)
@@DennisZylstra I'm WAY further back in the chain than you are, I don't even qualify as a beginner yet. I'm still waiting for my first real telescope, so I'm not gonna dig in quite that far just yet. I'm old enough to know better. Should be getting, basically, that exact dob in about three weeks. Been researching for months now though. My last telescope was probably from K-mart and my last look up was probably 25 years ago. Pretty excited.
It's heavy but I wish I would have got the 14 in . maybe in the next life lol.
@@yoyomurph9613 Let me know how you like it. The first time you see the rings of Saturn.....Well. Just remember at hight power your also magnifying all the bad in the atmosphere. we were looking at Saturn for about 2hr and all of a sudden every got perfectly still. wow what a sight .Have fun YOYO
@@DennisZylstra Thank you sir. I'll definitely have fun with it. I feel like a kid again I'm so excited. Living in MT, I'm looking forward to some really dark skies and long nights.
I just got a free 130 EQ that needs a LOT of tlc, and I have a used 8in on the way in a few days - I got the 8 inch dobsonian so cheap it's unreal but I didn't have ANY eyepieces for the 130 and the 8in came with a set, so I bought it. I am going to book mark you! I got a feeling I will need it a bunch! Great video, EXACTLY what an ENB (extreme newbie) needs!
+Jase Walters sounds great. lots of luck! .....start cleaning right.
Awesome video! Thanks for making it and uploading it. Much appreciated.
Adding a nylon and metal washer to the secondary mirror assembly was such an important step. Without, adjusting the three aiming screws often had nonsensical reactions (mirror would be moved by the torque on the screw, not just its elevation), and the mirror would also frequently move on its own after adjusting. I was lucky in that the eyepiece mount and the laser I bought were correctly collimated from the factory (90 deg turn resulted in almost no variance in the laser), but adding them to the checklist was critical to eliminating sources of error.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!
This did make a big difference in my telescope also. BIG
VERY informative. That was well worth the watch. I will be collimating my Astromaster EQ 130 for the first time for Thanksgiving 2015, now I know how.
+Robert Thompson (Saberino76) I was just given one of those because my buddy's kid thought the eyepieces were cool toys and they were lost except for the erector lens (not in good shape either)I am an extreme newbie to this so if you have any helpful hints about your EQ 130 that you could pass along I would be grateful! Might even buy you a beer!
+Jase Walters The only real thing I can think of for you is to gently keep the back mirror centered to the tube first, then adjust the secondary as center to it as you can. Sorry I tell you more.
Honestly I seen like every video for collimating and this is the best one like for realz dude thank you so much
New for me, but best collimation video ever seen! GBY!
Hi Dennis, To align the focuser to the optical path I used a site tube, made with a 10 inch long 11/4" plumbers tube, at one end I placed a peep hole the other end a set of cross hairs. This simple tool has to be made extremely accurate in order to do the job. I took every thing out of the optical tube except the empty spider. I then placed a stretched string down the exact center of the tube and through center hole of the spider and marked a point on the string directly below the center of the focuser. placing the site tube in the focuser I could easily align the cross hairs both on the mark along with the string to get a perfectly aligned focuser to the optical path. after reassembling the telescope I puled up the site tube so that the cross hairs was just poking out of the bottom of the focuser. shining a red light up at the cross hairs I adjusted the tilt of the secondary mirror to match the reflection of the cross hairs of the site tube. Next I adjusted the tilt of the primary so the central spot of the primary matched the center of the cross hairs in the site tube. Shifting the site tube up and down the focuser so that the boundary of the secondary was just visible in side the bottom of the site tube, I am able to see if the rotation of the secondary about the optical axis is correct. If it isn't, the secondary will appear off center either to the right or the left and needs to be rotated either to the right or left to correct. Once this is done go back and readjust the reflection of the cross hairs with the cross hairs themselves and go back and readjust the primary tilt. You may have to go back and forth a few times to get it perfect but once done you will never have to touch the secondary again. That is until it is time to recoat. This method showed a perfect star test on a 10 inch f 4.5 telescope without any further adjustment.
Thanks for sharing. I see the difference now. I hope lots of people read this. And Thanks for watching.
best i've seen on chesire collimation. thanks
kool great work. i brought a skywatcher 250p about a month ago. set it up in the back garden i see jupiter in the sky aimed my finder scope at it with both eyes open and the cross hair was out by a finger width from the view from my other eye. turned out the first bit of tube (the part you look through first)on the finder scope was screwed on at an angle. puzzled the hell out of me for a day or so before i had taken the whole finder scope of and just rolled it around in my hand and vuala.
Greetings,
Just got an Orion XT10G for Christmas, and had first light this evening in light polluted Dallas, TX.
Looks like the secondary is in bad need of collimation....Question, what did you use to replace the phillips head screw in the center of the Secondary mirror (need exact thread value (MM or SAE?) and size of screw...also, if you have an email, please leave so that I may ask a couple of questions regarding your Collimation videos (wonderful! Thanks for all of your work!) Jeff W.
Great video!
Very nice video, thank you Dennis. I think I've found out what I was getting wrong, I'll try it tonight.
Thanks and good seeing.
Jesus that was good. Best video hands down i have seen on the topic.
Thanks so much.
Excellent Video, thanks alot
Thanks for taking the time to put this video together. It's helped me to clear up a handful of critical issues I was having.
What brand barlow and laser are you using?
Also, are you lining up the tape on the sides of the secondary with the center of your zip tie from the 12 and 6 o'clock positions?
Greg Owen The Barlow was made by Orion but they don't make it anymore. Laser Orion. Zip tie, Yes. Just do it the same from side to side so you can get a mechanical measurement that is the same. Im so glad it was helpful.
Hi, just got an Orion XT10G for Christmas. First light this evening (12/29) looking at Jupiter through a very light polluted Dallas sky. First impressions were the bands and moons were a bit 'fuzzy' using a Televue ETHOS 13 mm....suspect Secondary mirror way out of collimation...initially tried just a laser collimation, dot was centered but not confident the secondary is directly under the focuser. A couple of questions if I may: What exact size screw did you replace in the secondary? Email?
Hi, I´m trying to colimate my 200 F5. All is great but I missed when you put the chesire and losen up the central screw and count until 4 then tighten the tree screws. I thought I should make the yellow reflection circular and equal spaced black ring around it.
When I put the spider I measure the four distances and set equal. Should I change this distances? I´m quite lost.
Thanks you so much.
I would set all the same distance.
What did you use to darken the secondary mirror?
Hi,
I am from India , recently i have bought Orion xt8 Classic Dobsonian.
Couple of days back while using telescope , my 25 mm plossl eyepiece botton metal part accidentally hit primary mirror and small black coat inside of metal part of eyepiece stick to primary mirror.
By 25mm eyepiece while watching moon , it look good.
But using barlow 2X n 25mm eyepiece to see Jupiter on full zoom , not sure but i think that black coat scratch on primary mirror is shown in eyepiece.
Please let me know, What to do:
Does it really effect on light gathering.
Do i need to clean it , if yes please tell me simple way, as i am first time user.
Or it wouldn't effect the view.
You are a real sergeant!!!
For people who are familiar with collimating telescopes, this is probably helpful. You show all of your technical steps. I wish that you would provide an outline of the steps and talk a bit more about the theory or principle of what you are trying to accomplish and then how the actions you are taking will achieve the desired outcomes. This looks extremely complicated and intimidating to me.
Thanks Dennis - you gave a lot of good tips.
I couldn't follow all of it especially when you were looking through the eyepieces
as I couldn't see what you were seeing.
Could that plastic washer you added have changed the secondary offset?
Is it worthwhile checking that the offset made in the factory is perfect as per many website calculators?
Also - it's good to check for lateral movement of the primary mirror as what you adjust
in a horizontal position may not be the same when the OTA is vertical
or when the horizontal OTA is rotated 180 degrees -
the laser dot could move.
Thank you. I am so glad it helped!
Dennis I have a Tasco Newtonian (4.5"f/8) I want to collimate and it is proving to be extremely difficult to do so. On top of it, the secondary mirror spider has slotted holes on the side of the tube. Not nice.
So far I have centred the mirror in its cell to a very high degree of accuracy. I have centre-spotted the primary. I have a suspicion the screws to collimate the primary are not the right ones: they are all of the same length, locking and collimating screws are all the same length. Aside from this I think the majority of the problems are with the secondary.
Because of the small tube diameter and the spider it is difficult to get paper inside the tube, past the spider to block the primary.
Thanks. I hope it helps.
I'll have to watch your video again. Lots of steps I missed out on the first view. Much thanks for the video. I too found problems with the scored spots the secondary adjustment screws had dug into the back of the secondary holder shell or tube.
Thank You. What scope do you have?
Lunagrosso 11TE-5. 4.5" Tasco reflector from the 1960s. I have 3 of these. Some of them are Sears version of the same think.
Dan
Great video, thanks. I just went through this last weekend. This would have saved me a little time. Oh well, live and learn. Clear skies.
THANKS ....IT makes a big diff. clear skies
Dennis Zylstra .... Yes sir it definitely does. This is an expansive hobby... everyone should take the time to know their equipment.
Good work. But can this collimator also be used to collimate porro prism binoculars and eccentric ring adjustments?
🤷
Something is wrong with my telescope,I collimated the secondary mirror,but after collimating the main mirror,the second mirror no longer touches the center of the main mirror.Maybe a secondary mirror, is not centered in the middle of focuser???
How much of this ticket will you have available in Brazil?
It is a tube, two mirrors and an eyepiece, should be simple but this is so in depth leaving it open to many mistakes, I would strongly suggest Newtonian telescope users getting a laser collimator and line the dot up.
Too many ways to scratch or damage your mirrors here and I am sure you would agree this video is for the techie! good luck.
my thoughts exactly. i like to tinker, but this is over the line even for an engineer (which i'm not but have worked with many). secondary center in the tube would be crucial if the tube were the exact same diameter as the primary, but the tolerances are designed into the system to correct for error and maintain portability. it's not the Webb telescope.
This sort of accuracy is essential for serious astrophotography, a laser can't be used to check for secondary mirror being rotated.
I have a NEWTONIAN 150/750 and have collimated it to precision with a laser collimator but STILL SEE crosshairs!
Can you help? What am i doing wrong?
not sure what u mean by crosshairs?
this is extremely useful in looking at the anatomy of the spider. Thanks Dennis. Have you ever dared clean your primary mirror?
Yes ....Probably one to many times
Dennis, like you I don't understand the offset. If I follow your procedure will it automatically be offset or did you adjust the offset manually? I have a 12 inch dob also.
+Scott Payne..... It should be there automatically. what kind of dob?
+Dennis Zylstra meade lightbridge. I am wanting to flock it and am a little nervouse to take it all apart and then get it back together.
thanks for the vid. I've done everything right up to where you start looking for the primary clips at 24 min into the video. i get the secondary so i can see all three clips but when i have to use the three screws on the secondary to get my laser in the circle on the primary i lose sight of one of the clips. It is so frustrating
Be sure to check the alignment/collimation of your laser...they are quite often not accurate. Trust your eye over what the laser shows.
Great video Dennis. Did you notice an improvement after you put the flocking material in?
Can't say I did. But I had to do it. Right.
Have you tried to use a barlowed laser from rear view? I've read that a barlowed laser is very accurate and that an unbarlowed laser is fairly inaccurate particularly for a fast scope. I'd like to see how it works in practice. It's something like > you need to center the reflection of the donut instead of the beam. I've got a laser on order.
Sir if I use 12 inch diameter Plano concave lens with size secondary mirror I used for Newtonian telescope?
I don't understand the question. but I think it depends on the focal length.
Really informative thanks 😊
Thanks for watching. Has
It helped?
@@DennisZylstra 100% it has
My Celestron C6-N primary has three set screws next to three Philips screws and I'm using a Cheshire. If I get the round circle in the crosshairs they go out when I turn down the set screws. No matter which way I try I cannot get the primary to stay except to leave the set screws alone. Luckily the secondary looks ok to me, but I'm a beginner so what do I know. I know I cannot see 3 clips on the primary though.
Are you thinking of them backwards? If not, try not locking them. start over and put a very very small amount of blue lock tight on the screw. I don't understand why they have locks on them, the tension is enough to hold them . good luck. Thanks for watching.
@@DennisZylstra LOL, I had the secondary off, but luckily I found a video that told me what to do with the Phillips screw and now I got it right on the money using it to look at stars. A 750mm by 155mm mirror and a 170 aperture leaves me wondering divide by mirror or aperture?
I put my Tele Vue Barlow in with my 20mm Celestron EP for 75x by mirror and everything including M31 was crystal clear. No fuzziness on the outsides at all. I finally beat my 100mm Zhumell with no issues.
*watches intently for the first minute and 20 seconds.
Dennis: "The first thing you wanna do is take your spider off. We'll take these four knobs and..."
Me: "Oh dear."
Me: (30 mins later) "I got this."
Thanks a ton! Liked & subbed, and on my way down to my scope, tie wraps at the ready ;-)
Happened something quite similar to me these days... I think I have seen the vídeo more than 30 times... I am waiting a for a clear night skies to test my newtonian after these fine adjustments. I made a mess trying to adjust the secondary mirror. You saved me to return my new scope... Thx a lot mate!
Spray can of flat back, sprayed in to a can or lid and then paint brushed it on.
At the 1995 stellafane convention in vermont I did a discussion on how to collimate a Newtonian reflector very similar to yours. I noticed that you took nothing for granted, all aspects were explained. I do things a little different,but there's no reason that your method shouldn't work with any Newtonian regardless of size or focal ratio
Thank you Marc. I would love to see or hear your difference.
I also would like to make a tool the size diameter of the focuser that a person could slid in down to the secondary. Making the alignment to the focuser faster and more accurate.
All you need is a star test, it's free, simple and a star will never lie to you.......
I tried star test last weekend, the outside fuzzy part just kept swimming around changing shape, the donut did look a little off center, but couldn't really get a decent look cause of outside part moving, I was using 32 mm eyepiece is that wrong?
Will this collimation work on a fast newtonian F/4?
yes
That sounds exactly what a barlow 2X dose with a regular laser. Let me know.
Thanks to astronomyshed and others it is coming together. Read and watch all you can get your hands on. It starts to make sense.
Do skywatcher telescopes come with a collimation cap? I don't want to buy some sort of tool, because they are so expensive! If i buy a 350€ telescope with a 50€ collimation tool, i am already at 400€!
+StarTrek123456 You should ask them. But they should. Good luck and most of all have fun.
My skywatcher primary doesn't have clips, what should I be using to center in chesire insteas?
If it has a center dot you could use a Cheshire with crosshairs. Good luck. and thanks for watching.
@@DennisZylstra thanks for videos, gonna try putting the washer and plastic washer in secondary for easier adjustment
My 16 inch goto alt az dob seems to be tracking fine, the orion nebula, moon whatever stays in centered in frame for 30 minutes or more, but my 30 second exposures are blurry, just a little bit of star trail, enough to notice, and orion nebula a little blurry
My 13 mm eyepiece has jupiter really clear, but my 10 mm eyepiece and 5 mm are blurry
Any thoughts on if that's my collimation slightly off probably, my scope is suppose to handle that much magnification easily
And my exposures anything over 5 seconds is a little blurry, my clutches quite not tensioned properly to stay centered, or is that just the alt az system that wont let me get clear exposures
Thanks for videos again
oh i have the 6 inch orion it has not been used much as i am just to lazy to lug it into the garden .. jeff ..
+Jeffrey petch-harrison Nice. Get out there.
Hope you learn some collimate a telescope soon
It looks like very difficult for me.... The Collimanitaion process
Thanks for the video now I’m 100% certain that I will never buy a telescope like this. LOL is this all necessary because this is a cheaper telescope? Why wouldn’t the center marks already be on the mirror from the manufacturer? Seems like a lot of work that should’ve already been done by the manufacturer. Would you have to do all of this with a more expensive telescope?
This is for tuning Nerds. LOL I like to know I have the best chance at the best views. Most manufacturers have a center donut on the mirror but most tuning nerds like to make sure that it is perfect. Centered that is. That might happen on a cheerer scope. It is a labor of love. I don't have a expensive scope but you do have to collimate them also so Ive herd.
LOL!! As he mentioned at the beginning, this is something that may be done during your initial setup and some steps may not have to ever be done again... I would say once this extent is accomplished, it might be done once per year or two, depends on how much you use your scope and how much you "bump it around". It is definitely worth going through this once or every couple of years to get the best views. It is worth taking care of your equipment, quite an investment.
I realize this is an older post but it may apply to a new viewer watching this...Collimating any telescope has nothing to do with the quality or price of the scope...think of it like a musical instrument...all instruments need to be tuned for best performance. However, complete alignment like this is not needed very often. Only during initial set up (when assembling) and then if there is reason to have disassembled any of the components. This is great for understanding how each component is set up and aligned together. Another source with great pictures is www.astro-baby.com/astrobaby/help/collimation-guide-newtonian-reflector/ During most use, a simple collimating of the primary mirror is all that is needed and is easily done with either the cap or the defused laser technique shown in the video. The secondary mirror (once set) is much less likely to need collimating unless the scope is handled roughly. The “off set” of the focuser and the secondary that he refers too, has to do with the speed or “f” rating, ie: f5, f4.9, etc. Very similar to how he described that due to his eyesight, part of the secondary was in focus and part was out of focus, well that’s true for how an eyepiece sees the image. Some of the light has to travel just a bit further (faster) than other parts in order for the image to be in focus at the same point...very hard to see with the eye (the eye is amazing) but can be seen as a slight aberration...but that’s a whole different lesson 🤪. While this video is very well done and precise from A-Z...and collimating is absolutely necessary for the “best” image possible, the extent to which is needed on a regular bases is very minor or should be if reasonable care is taken during use and transport.
Great effort, but this video should talk about secondary offset, finding the centre of the ovular secondary is pointless because the optical centre needs to be in the centre of the focuser, not the actual centre.
I say in the video I don't understand offset, but for some reason I get offset doing it this method. I can only guess that is because we do most of it optically. Im more concerned about the rotation of the secondary so it is square to the focuser. that is very difficult to confirm . Thanks Dennis
I feel your pain.
Its a very detailed video and obviously a smart guy but the fact is its a 1000 dollar telescope, Orion marks the mid points on the mirrors and if you simply use the laser and align the secondary and then the primary you will be fine.I understand its a Chinese made telescope but the optics always just need a small bit of tweaking. You dont need pull the spider out etc. Good Lord company & doesn do all this when they make your scope for you. I can guarantee the view will be no different whether take two hours to do the above or 5 minutes to do a regular laser collimation. I have owned the 8, 12, and 16 of these scopes.
I Think thats why I did all that. It needed all the help it could get. But one thing your missing is the mechanical vs. visual way to setup the secondary mirror. that did make a huge difference with this scope.
"huge difference" Can you define that? Do you have an observational test to check how good the collimation is? I mean like some test double stars or something.
@@MrGp3po well that's the thing isn't it . I couldn't get a good test be for this .Well the huge difference to me was it simply looked good for the first time. It was obvious to me I could not get the secondary right by visual means I needed something physical and or mechanical. thanks for watching.
Meade light bridge.
+Scott Payne говно это
I’ve never seen a perfectly straight cable tie yet and I’m an electrician.
HI. Just use something you trust as long it is the same from side to side. Thanks for watching.
5:42 voice craAck
The thing with the folded paper I guess only works on secondary mirror without offset.
I think it gets adjusted in automatically.
@@DennisZylstra
How is that? On a secondary mirror with offset, the point where the center dot on the primary mirror is seen on the secondary mirror should not be on the center.
Good question. I can’t answer it technically but I can tell you that when I go through this complete process I have offset. I addressed it in the video that I don’t understand offset and I still don’t cause I’ve never studied it but I get great results doing this this way, I hope this helps
@@DennisZylstra
It's only the faster reflectors that need an offset, because the beam of light from the primary to the secondary on a faster scope is wider in comparission to the distance between the two. I guess for f5 or faster.
The reason for the need of an offset is that the beam of light, at the point of the secondary, that is closer to the primary, is so wide at this point that it needs to reach further out to "catch" the beam.
If links doesn't get removed, here is an image that shows it nicely:
www.cloudynights.com/uploads/monthly_11_2011/post-19446-1407382523135.png
@@DennisZylstra
It's only the faster reflectors that need an offset, because the beam of light from the primary to the secondary on a faster scope is wider in comparission to the distance between the two. I guess for f5 or faster.
The reason for the need of an offset is that the beam of light, at the point of the secondary, that is closer to the primary, is so wide at this point that it needs to reach further out to the sideto "catch" the beam.
and this is to be done out in the field after you pull it out of your trunk?
Did you watch the video? This is the initial setup. But thanks anyway.
Starting at about 16:00 it's very difficult to follow along as you're not showing us what's in the eyepiece. You say "That looks good" but if we don't see what "that" is, then we can't learn what looks good.
Thanks for watching. At that time I had no way to video what I was seeing. If you listen to the instructions, it is just about centering things. If you look in yours you will see what I mean. Blue sky.
i need to collimate my newtonian but my mom stereotyped telescopes as they should never be collimated :(
Um, Newts need regular collimation. If it is never moved around you might go through several sessions in good shape. But still check anyway especially if you're doing astrophotography. If you're only doing visual then not so critical.
Then lays a mirror on paper...all that work and lays mirrors on paper. Hey I've got it aligned to the nearest atom but I layed my mirror on paper. Don't worry I said it's clean.
You are right. I should have used 80 grit. ;)
I find plenty of faults with collmation. depending on telescopes you have. some is too wobbly for trasnporation that it will be thrown out of line, anyway. it is almost self defeating. I do my best I can. I believe that one has to know his telescope and deduct out all the characteristic faults of that telescope and make most of it.. Amateur telescopes are not exactly observatory level construction quality that are comparable to battletanks.. They are heavier and iron like! Also, I think they ought to do away with those cheap allen type screws and whatnots.. I am tired of using allen wrenches.. too clumsy to use with. There are "bob" types screws which may be better. I will keep watching reruns of your clip , anyway..
I would not recommend any of this to someone who is new to the hobby. You are basically taking the entire telescope apart and the optics can easily get damaged. Check those clothes. I think they are dry.
LOL
"Because i don't want to scratch mine, but you can. Be careful" lol. How about here's my primary mirror and ive got a hammer, now I'm not going to hit mine because I don't want to smash it but you can hit yours as hard as you like but be careful.
Glad you don't teach kids how to cross the road
It is pronounced ZED not ZEE
WOW!! That is so helpful . Thank you.
Waste of time. Just buy a good apo refractor and stay away from the junk. If you can't afford a real telescope, don't get into the hobby.
Some people like a little aperture. Thank for your time.