Just fill the differentials with NLGI type 2 grease to help reduce the friction and control the temperature issue it'll also help reduce the grinding sound when you run the Wltoys 12428
Ian Mangham There's a few different types the mustard colour grease is the most common one. Wltoys uses synthetic silicon grease which dries up pretty fast
Too bad. Good to know that this car comes with metal gears now. But as Wltoys doesn't communicate on this, we don't know if there is still car with plastic gears.
Yes, you re right about the grease but i don't want to have steel dust glued to the grease if the friction wear out the gears. Also, i will open the rear axle to see the aera on the gears which is the most wear out, this will help to understand what is wrong with the metal gears. But for sure i will put grease as i always do on all my differential crown gears well i will have a better mesh. I have bought 8x11 yokomo shims which will help to do a better mesh.
I have this 12428 2 days ago. Mesh on ring and bevel gear on diffs isn't good. Also the mesh in pinion and spur on the motor isn't good. The screws in motor mount have super glue. Too bad i need to cut the chassis where the motor mount sits when a new chassis and adjustable motor mount arrive. Thanks for your nice video mate.
If you strip the screw head as I did then you can tap and drill the screw out. My main issue was the ESC failed after 5 mins. I also noticed the motor ran hot so got a heatsink. I upgraded to a metal servo but so far haven’t done the diff upgrade. It’s a fun car but the electronics are junk
@@D13-r9w you're right, the electronics are junk. I just replace the esc with Hobbywing 1080. Now i'm thinking to go brushless. A non stop upgrades haha
I can’t believe you didn’t take off the body to do this the only two things I’ve done to mine is replace the rear shocks because the stock were too bouncy and the rear driveshaft because a screw in the plastic one broke I paid 60 for the car and 60 for the shocks but it’s my third favorite RC out of over 20 maybe 25 now I think I have a problem LOL I have the 10428 coming in the mail sometime in February I had to get this little guys bigger brother
12 screws to remove the body, too much 🤣. You are now a RC addict. I'm too, i have 100+ rc, i don't count the number of projects i have in stand by waiting to be restored 🤣
Mine came with all metal didn’t know what the crunchy sound was till I stripped it apart ! None of the parts are centred properly , I filled up the diffs with play doe and put loads of grease in the axles made a huge difference but I’d say it needs some time to bed in
Yes, the last version come with metal gears. But there is version with plastic gear on the market still, we can't know what we buy as it isn't always mentioned.
Switch Off When Not In Use Ok, although I find there are so many people out there already doing brushless conversations of these cars and cars like this without bothering to find the limits of the brushed system. From oneRUclipsr I've seen on this car, he ran a 3S everything else being stock the motor and ESC were fine, it was the rear diff that broke on him after multiple (off camera) runs. I'm sure this car is fine as well as best suited on 2S especially if you swap out the l-ion for a lipo. Although if you ever decide to do a brushless conversation, I just ask that you first try a 3s on the brushed set up, you may feel you don't even need to go brushless :)
I think i will stay with the brushed motor on 2s (i don't use the stock li-ion on this car anymore but Lipo). This chassis isn't built to go fast, it is fast enough out of the box, but even with the stock motor on 2s, the plastic gears aren't very durable with me. Most of the guy who show 3s straitgh line run with a car like that don't talk about the durabiity most of the time. I already have others cars which are more suitable to do high speed.
Switch Off When Not In Use Switch Off When Not In Use Yes that's why I suggested after you doing a full metal gear upgrade. Did you end up putting the metal parts in; isn't this what this video is about, you strengthening up the drivetrain?
The metal gears are surely stronger than stock but they aren't accurate enough (mainly the corwn gear and bevel pinion) to run smooth, the friction make lot of heat, even with shims. I will try to find better shims than the ones i have used.
Hey man it seems like u would know. The bearings in where the mesh gear is at to close the housing Do you know the diameter . or better question. When changing to a new gear mesh do you take it off from the old one to put in the new one? Id appreciate the answer to it thanks in advance
Hi thanks for the vid, will the steel gears work/fit the 10428 1/10 scale model? thanks in advance. Also do have any compatible motor and esc upgrade links and other upgrades you could tell me thanks. Im new to this stuff and this is my first rc but im already very interested in doing all sorts of upgrades to the beasty :), already bought a much better battery.
From what I could see in the video, you didn't use silicone oil on the differentials, you should have, because without them, metal will rub on metal and it will overheat... You also didn't use nautical white grease on the gears (pinion x crown), a tip here, Add a drop of silicone oil to the already applied grease and mix, redo the project Follow these steps and everything will be fine.
My 12428 doesn't steer on full lock, Is the stock servo is weak or i just put a sticky tires on my 12428? When i compare it to my Xinlehong 9125, the 9125 can steer about 80% with the same stickier tires. Thanks
De rien , ça ma bien plut oui c'est pas moi qui aurait pu faire ça c'est sûr 😆, teste déjà avec son moteur d'origine oui après tu verras pour du bruschless ☺
Je me suis abonné à ta chaine ;) J'espère voir d'autres videos ;) . Dès que j'ai le temps je vais enfin essayer mon J3Speed ARR dans lequel j'ai mis un moteur 3670 2650kv et un HW SC8 120A. J'ai déjà la dernière version de cvd en stock au cas ou je casserais ceux qu'ils ont mis avec un plus petit diamètre.
Merci c'est gentil 😉 ben moi j'attend toujours la mienne de jlb j3 speed que j'avais commandé sur Gearbest avec déjà tous électroniques mais je les pas encore reçu 😃 et je ferais une vidéo dessus dès que je les
How are other people removing the stock bevel pinion? Mine is stuck on both the front and rear differential boxes, I have stripped out the hex head screws trying to remove them! Is there a trick or something that I am missing? I have watched a dozen or so videos such as this on the metal gear upgrades and nobody actually films the part where they remove the bevel pinions - they always just show it already done like in this one or they just skip ahead and show the finished product after reassembly. If any one has suggestions please respond!
It is availble on banggood : www.banggood.com/WLtoys-12427-2_4G-112-4WD-Crawler-RC-Car-With-LED-Light-p-1046285.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN and there are many on aliexpress also. But some show that it won't shipped before the 16 july.
@@leaflux_gaming5668 I never changed the front CVD. I changed the center rear drive chat. I bought it on aliexpress. Take a look on my review the link is below the video. There are other users who talk about some other rear CVD in the thread.
It is because almost all the parts are made with very soft plastic. Some 12428 owners put aluminum parts to minimize the issue, like steering slide, front hub carriers, linkages...and even a-arms.
@@NobodyNoWhereElse yeah, but i prefer some like rotary steering system, not slider.. i've seen once on youtube like bell crank steering, hopefully you'll try it 😊
Dude...I took apart the differental on my T maxx so many times...I could do it in my sleep. Yeap...the shim did the trick most of the time.... It became a money pit....mostly a waste of my time. The savage did a little bit better.. it's just moving the weakest piont around... I ended up going to the plan old RC 10 GT....No parts to break.lol It;'s light...do it dosnt break.. It's still cheaper than working on rear cars.....I went in circles up grading 4-5 hot rods...too.lmao The same shit happens too....More power. Then the breaks, tires and whatever the hell joints starts wearing... I had a sup up WS6..It would fish tail ...even with corvette tires on it. Just tapping on the throttle.. it actaully got 28 mpg on freeway with all the BS smoke controll removed.. It was fun until the Transmission went out.lmao Good lord...my 4x4 pick up truck i had in HS. It was a good thing I roll it.lmao Then I went to a camero,,,of course I put a bigger carb and header on it.lol
I'm not a big fan of upgrades on rc car, i prefer when they are strong out of the box, like a Tekno for exemple. But this car is cool and i can't let it on the shelf because the gears are weak. Some users like to spend money in plastic gears (they are not expensive), and it is the part of the hobby to repair a rc car. Me i only want it to be more durable without excepting to put a brushless motor inside, i only want that it doesn't turn in 2WD at any time. But these metal gears aren't well made, mesh is horrbile and shim are hard to find. Traxxas is known to be expensive for what it is with many weak points, i'm not a huge fan of Traxxas, i only own a bandit and it is an old desgin that traxxas can sell at very expensive price with awfuly expensive electronics, even proprietary electronics. Hopefully for traxxas there is RPM who allow to change almost all the parts of their rc lol, what a money pit. I spent time on my H.King rattler to make it able to be use with 3s, because Hobbyking say it is 3s capable but the drive train isn't 3s capable in fact lol. I also have 52 rc cars to maintain, so i finish to have not so much time to spend on each of them. I don't talk about my real car, it is a 2002 diesel ford fiesta, but you know what, there is a turbo inside lol wouhou rofl.
52...hahahaa you need to get 3 more and make it 55... I get ya...I up grade my Savage. i had to complete it. It had a full roll age and aluminum wheels...I spend $275 on the ,247 XTM engine. It would pop a wheelie from a stand still and do crazy donuts I used to LAUNCH...LANUCH it...It would get more than 15 feet air easy.lmao..Other people were doing flips in the air with them. i needed a lot of practice. It was strudy. it had to be. I nevered had to that the Savage diff apart....but I snapped all the dog bones.lmao Those were the first to go as soon as I installled the .247..... Anyways, my current obsession....I have to make it work.lmao I got it on sale (new for $30) 1/8 newbright corvette. It'll do 10 mph.. out of the box.lmao There's only a 180 motor driving it.lmao WTF a servo motor driving it...no wonder.lmao I can actaullly get it run on 3S or 4S LI ION (18650). but that poor little motor.lmao I pick up an unbrand..KT12 or HBX thunder....for only $42. It's a good thing you made this video of all the different parts of the differental.....it's coming back to me.. Im going take the drive train from this 4x4 trucggie and install it in the 1/8 corvette.... Now Im also sort of stuck on the idea of 4x4 corvette.lmao And of course I found out there;s a 2 speed trans for the HBX.lol I know you can get metal dogbones or out drive assembly for it. I dont know....about the differental...it's probably the same as these other trucks...... The truck comes 2 cell 18650 stock....OF course Im going to try to run it on 3 or 4 ....maybe even 6s Li ION.lmao I ordered 60A and 480 ESC. I have 550 motors...just incase.lmao I can run 3s or 4s Li ION on the 1/10 scale GALLOP truckgie. The ones with the cool looking frame like this WLtoy It's only $23 on ebay becuase it's toy grade It runs on a 390 brushed motor...The 4s li ion WORKS fine with the STOCK radio...it's FASTER and fun to drive around.... I also took the rear end apart...( I had to know.lmao) There's only a 8T pinion gear in it..l;mao You can easily put a 9T or 10 T in it. The gear in between the pinon and differental. It actaullly has LIMITED slip like a rear car. The gears in it looks sturdy... The only problem is ..how the wheel hex gets attached to the wheels..the LEFT REAR wheel will fly off... I JB weld/epoxy back it...it's holding up. Theres room for a 9T pinion , easy I cant take the metal pinon from the stock motor.. I order a couple of R/C 390 motors...just like the stock one on the this truck or HBX..so i can just use a 9T or 10T pinion.lmao You can also get the 1/16 Ironhide for only $16. It's only 2 wd but the body looks just like this truck... I blew out the stock RX running it on 3S 40 C li po...lmao. It's fast...Im just waiting the 60A esc and extra RX to come in ...so i can them on these 1/16 scale I have 2 trucks in transit...due tommorow.lmao It's a simple drive train..there's only 3 gears The pinon...a gear between the shaft..and shaft
i tried the metal gears upgrade. i have to agree that they don't mesh well. shims don't help (once the diff casing comes on there's no room for the shims). with the metal gears, the car is jerky and the gears lock up at low speed. the mesh is so bad that the car runs slow and on the first run it broke my engine. i guess that answers the question "what happens when an unstoppable force meets an immovable object?" maybe WLtoys will eventually make some metal gears for this great car, but those aftermarket gears you linked are not made by WLtoys. they are a huge disappointment and should be avoided IMO.
I managed to shim the diff. and the mesh is ok, not perfect but ok. Yes, these gears aren't good, 8x11 or 9x11mm shims are really hard to find also. Since the beginning the plastic gears are fragil. I talk about metal gears since i have the car, almost 2 years ago, wltoys did one plastic upgrade which also can fail, but no metal gears from Wltoys since 2 years.
You know the links u put down for the props n shockers n that well its all in french or something like that n i aint got a clue wat the hell they are saying lol
That is just so wrong. First you assemble gears without grease and they make nasty sound and you say it.s ok. Then you pour oil in to shocks and dont bleed air under the piston. Now you have bubbles in your oil and the shocks will work like crap :(
Lol, you make my day dude. I don't show i put grease because it is unrelevant for what i want to show here. The metal gear on this car are far to be perfect, you won't have the same result than on better brand. About the shock, they are small shock absorber, if you fill them well there will be no "bubble". And for finishing, this isn"t a car for racing, it doesn't need hgh level assembly. Just watch my other videos, there are a lot, where i show how i assemble my diff., how i shim them, on way better brand than this one.
wow those shocks would have been horrible with that much rebound, you need to seal them up with the shock shaft fully compressed in. You need to watch pro racers rebuild shocks not this guy
Thank you Sir!
Just fill the differentials with NLGI type 2 grease to help reduce the friction and control the temperature issue it'll also help reduce the grinding sound when you run the Wltoys 12428
Ian Mangham There's a few different types the mustard colour grease is the most common one. Wltoys uses synthetic silicon grease which dries up pretty fast
will the waterproof grease that's used for speedboat prop shafts work on this I looked up NLGI TYPE 2 grease on eBay I can't get it in my country :-(
@@wdavie27 Multi purpose bearing grease. Go to your local garage and ask them for some.
@@ZeroGHome24 will semi-truck wheel bearing grease work?
I ended up buying the metal differential gears when I went to put them in the WL toys car already had metal gears double-check before you install
Too bad. Good to know that this car comes with metal gears now. But as Wltoys doesn't communicate on this, we don't know if there is still car with plastic gears.
@@NobodyNoWhereElse right. I was pretty surprised because all the cars on RUclips had plastic gears. I bought mine off Amazon in the US.
I'm definitely going to buy a another one for my son for Christmas that way I have an extra for spare parts
@@michaelf.3846 same here XD
You should put some grease on the gears. It helps with meshing and reduces heat generated by friction on the pitch diameter line of the gear
Yes, you re right about the grease but i don't want to have steel dust glued to the grease if the friction wear out the gears. Also, i will open the rear axle to see the aera on the gears which is the most wear out, this will help to understand what is wrong with the metal gears. But for sure i will put grease as i always do on all my differential crown gears well i will have a better mesh. I have bought 8x11 yokomo shims which will help to do a better mesh.
Yes should be packed with grease
just had one of these shipped from china ,absolutely brilliant car, very fast.
I have this 12428 2 days ago. Mesh on ring and bevel gear on diffs isn't good. Also the mesh in pinion and spur on the motor isn't good. The screws in motor mount have super glue. Too bad i need to cut the chassis where the motor mount sits when a new chassis and adjustable motor mount arrive. Thanks for your nice video mate.
If you strip the screw head as I did then you can tap and drill the screw out. My main issue was the ESC failed after 5 mins. I also noticed the motor ran hot so got a heatsink. I upgraded to a metal servo but so far haven’t done the diff upgrade. It’s a fun car but the electronics are junk
@@D13-r9w you're right, the electronics are junk. I just replace the esc with Hobbywing 1080. Now i'm thinking to go brushless. A non stop upgrades haha
@@D13-r9w oh thanks for the tip to get the screws out.
Great upgrade. Well some parts still need to be upgraded from the upgrade. :)
Yes, too bad that the steel gears aren't more accurate.
I can’t believe you didn’t take off the body to do this the only two things I’ve done to mine is replace the rear shocks because the stock were too bouncy and the rear driveshaft because a screw in the plastic one broke I paid 60 for the car and 60 for the shocks but it’s my third favorite RC out of over 20 maybe 25 now I think I have a problem LOL I have the 10428 coming in the mail sometime in February I had to get this little guys bigger brother
12 screws to remove the body, too much 🤣. You are now a RC addict. I'm too, i have 100+ rc, i don't count the number of projects i have in stand by waiting to be restored 🤣
Switch Off When Not In Use where do you store all of them
Have you ever sold one (I have sold a couple)
Very nice, you also need adjustable tractions.
I am feeling like my eyesight worsening due that focus😀
🤣The sony NEX 3N isn't that good about focus.
Make your camera focus on center of scene instead whole full frame.
did you put silicone oil on the diferential housing?
great job
No, the differentials aren't sealed. I put grease.
Mine came with all metal didn’t know what the crunchy sound was till I stripped it apart ! None of the parts are centred properly , I filled up the diffs with play doe and put loads of grease in the axles made a huge difference but I’d say it needs some time to bed in
Yes, the last version come with metal gears. But there is version with plastic gear on the market still, we can't know what we buy as it isn't always mentioned.
Nice informative video, car is now ready for 3S run :D
;) i will already see how it is durable with the stock motor, then maybe try a brushless motor and i think 2s will be enought for this car.
Switch Off When Not In Use
Ok, although I find there are so many people out there already doing brushless conversations of these cars and cars like this without bothering to find the limits of the brushed system.
From oneRUclipsr I've seen on this car, he ran a 3S everything else being stock the motor and ESC were fine, it was the rear diff that broke on him after multiple (off camera) runs.
I'm sure this car is fine as well as best suited on 2S especially if you swap out the l-ion for a lipo. Although if you ever decide to do a brushless conversation, I just ask that you first try a 3s on the brushed set up, you may feel you don't even need to go brushless :)
I think i will stay with the brushed motor on 2s (i don't use the stock li-ion on this car anymore but Lipo). This chassis isn't built to go fast, it is fast enough out of the box, but even with the stock motor on 2s, the plastic gears aren't very durable with me. Most of the guy who show 3s straitgh line run with a car like that don't talk about the durabiity most of the time. I already have others cars which are more suitable to do high speed.
Switch Off When Not In Use
Switch Off When Not In Use
Yes that's why I suggested after you doing a full metal gear upgrade. Did you end up putting the metal parts in; isn't this what this video is about, you strengthening up the drivetrain?
The metal gears are surely stronger than stock but they aren't accurate enough (mainly the corwn gear and bevel pinion) to run smooth, the friction make lot of heat, even with shims. I will try to find better shims than the ones i have used.
Hey man it seems like u would know. The bearings in where the mesh gear is at to close the housing Do you know the diameter . or better question. When changing to a new gear mesh do you take it off from the old one to put in the new one? Id appreciate the answer to it thanks in advance
Hi thanks for the vid, will the steel gears work/fit the 10428 1/10 scale model? thanks in advance. Also do have any compatible motor and esc upgrade links and other upgrades you could tell me thanks. Im new to this stuff and this is my first rc but im already very interested in doing all sorts of upgrades to the beasty :), already bought a much better battery.
nice vid. I need to do the same for mine as soon as possible. I do like hbx rc cars a bit more, its just the best cheap rc brand.
Thks, i'm glad you like it.
The HBX cars are pretty good too indeed.
From what I could see in the video, you didn't use silicone oil on the differentials, you should have, because without them, metal will rub on metal and it will overheat... You also didn't use nautical white grease on the gears (pinion x crown), a tip here, Add a drop of silicone oil to the already applied grease and mix, redo the project Follow these steps and everything will be fine.
Differentials aren't sealed.
Were you find upgrade kits? At WL toys? Please let me know where, many thanks!
The links are below the video ;)
My 12428 doesn't steer on full lock, Is the stock servo is weak or i just put a sticky tires on my 12428? When i compare it to my Xinlehong 9125, the 9125 can steer about 80% with the same stickier tires. Thanks
Super vidéo c'est bien de changer les pièces d'origine par des pièces métal tu peux passer en bruschless maintenant
Merci, content que ça te plaise. Je vais déjà voir comme ça tient avec le moteur d'origine et puis peut être qu'après je testerais un brushless.
De rien , ça ma bien plut oui c'est pas moi qui aurait pu faire ça c'est sûr 😆, teste déjà avec son moteur d'origine oui après tu verras pour du bruschless ☺
Je me suis abonné à ta chaine ;) J'espère voir d'autres videos ;) . Dès que j'ai le temps je vais enfin essayer mon J3Speed ARR dans lequel j'ai mis un moteur 3670 2650kv et un HW SC8 120A. J'ai déjà la dernière version de cvd en stock au cas ou je casserais ceux qu'ils ont mis avec un plus petit diamètre.
Merci c'est gentil 😉 ben moi j'attend toujours la mienne de jlb j3 speed que j'avais commandé sur Gearbest avec déjà tous électroniques mais je les pas encore reçu 😃 et je ferais une vidéo dessus dès que je les
Salut Possible d'avoir un retour sur la qualité générale de ce modèle, j'aimerais la prendre pour mon fils de 10ans.
that's an awesome toy. liked and subbed
HI, I just bought the same car at a county fair,now is it owned by supaquad? Where do I go for parts? Thanks
Sympa tout ça!
Beautiful hands!
He he thanks. Actually my hands nurse people almost everyday.
How are other people removing the stock bevel pinion? Mine is stuck on both the front and rear differential boxes, I have stripped out the hex head screws trying to remove them! Is there a trick or something that I am missing? I have watched a dozen or so videos such as this on the metal gear upgrades and nobody actually films the part where they remove the bevel pinions - they always just show it already done like in this one or they just skip ahead and show the finished product after reassembly. If any one has suggestions please respond!
I use an iron solder put on the cvd screw head before uncrewing. If the small phillips head screws don't come easily, i do the same.
To my it seems Wltoys 12428 is not made anymore, I couldn't find it on ebay and bangood anymore, any information?
It is availble on banggood : www.banggood.com/WLtoys-12427-2_4G-112-4WD-Crawler-RC-Car-With-LED-Light-p-1046285.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN and there are many on aliexpress also. But some show that it won't shipped before the 16 july.
very detailed
i like this kind video
+1 subscribe here 😃
Thks, glad you like.
Hi man, which gears are them? Where did you buy them? Do you think they would be good for a wltoys 12402 and 12404? For an upgrade...
Hi, The links are in descritpion, below the video. I don't know how are the 12402 and 12404 gears.
When u ordered the new shocks for this truck did u get 1 or 2 in the package
2
Exacto where you get the steel gears ?
Hello, what batteries do you recommend in terms of power, duration and durability?
Thank you!
www.banggood.com/ZOP-Power-7_4V-2200mAh-35C-2S-Lipo-Battery-T-Plug-For-RC-Models-p-992114.html?p=GZ21132319344201508K
@@NobodyNoWhereElse yep thats the one
Thanks for the infos. Subsribed 😁👍😁
Thanks, glad you like. Don't forget to read my review, the link is below the video.
FOCUS!
1:01 😁
What shocks oil did you use in the video?
600cst silicone oil, but you can even put higher.
did the new shocks have a bleed screw ?
No, it is basic shock absorber, better than stock but basic.
So im assuming you cannot fill the original shocks with oil?
Yes.
@@NobodyNoWhereElse Damm, but thx anyway.
did you lube the diff
Yes, i put some grease inside the diff. and on the crown gear. As the differentials aren't sealed, i don't put oil.
Were did you get the cvd drive shafts for the front?
I still use the stock front CVDs.
Switch Off When Not In Use What?
@@leaflux_gaming5668 I never changed the front CVD. I changed the center rear drive chat. I bought it on aliexpress. Take a look on my review the link is below the video. There are other users who talk about some other rear CVD in the thread.
Switch Off When Not In Use oh sorry.
Still thinking how to change the steering system, it jam a lot
It is because almost all the parts are made with very soft plastic. Some 12428 owners put aluminum parts to minimize the issue, like steering slide, front hub carriers, linkages...and even a-arms.
@@NobodyNoWhereElse yeah, but i prefer some like rotary steering system, not slider.. i've seen once on youtube like bell crank steering, hopefully you'll try it 😊
why no diff grease?
I always put grease on the diff. but in this case i want to see where are the worn area.
Dude...I took apart the differental on my T maxx so many times...I could do it in my sleep.
Yeap...the shim did the trick most of the time....
It became a money pit....mostly a waste of my time. The savage did a little bit better..
it's just moving the weakest piont around...
I ended up going to the plan old RC 10 GT....No parts to break.lol
It;'s light...do it dosnt break..
It's still cheaper than working on rear cars.....I went in circles up grading
4-5 hot rods...too.lmao
The same shit happens too....More power. Then the breaks, tires and whatever the
hell joints starts wearing...
I had a sup up WS6..It would fish tail ...even with corvette tires on it. Just tapping
on the throttle.. it actaully got 28 mpg on freeway with all the BS smoke controll removed..
It was fun until the Transmission went out.lmao
Good lord...my 4x4 pick up truck i had in HS. It was a good thing I roll it.lmao
Then I went to a camero,,,of course I put a bigger carb and header on it.lol
I'm not a big fan of upgrades on rc car, i prefer when they are strong out of the box, like a Tekno for exemple. But this car is cool and i can't let it on the shelf because the gears are weak. Some users like to spend money in plastic gears (they are not expensive), and it is the part of the hobby to repair a rc car. Me i only want it to be more durable without excepting to put a brushless motor inside, i only want that it doesn't turn in 2WD at any time. But these metal gears aren't well made, mesh is horrbile and shim are hard to find. Traxxas is known to be expensive for what it is with many weak points, i'm not a huge fan of Traxxas, i only own a bandit and it is an old desgin that traxxas can sell at very expensive price with awfuly expensive electronics, even proprietary electronics. Hopefully for traxxas there is RPM who allow to change almost all the parts of their rc lol, what a money pit. I spent time on my H.King rattler to make it able to be use with 3s, because Hobbyking say it is 3s capable but the drive train isn't 3s capable in fact lol. I also have 52 rc cars to maintain, so i finish to have not so much time to spend on each of them.
I don't talk about my real car, it is a 2002 diesel ford fiesta, but you know what, there is a turbo inside lol wouhou rofl.
52...hahahaa you need to get 3 more and make it 55...
I get ya...I up grade my Savage. i had to complete it.
It had a full roll age and aluminum wheels...I spend $275 on
the ,247 XTM engine. It would pop a wheelie from a stand still
and do crazy donuts
I used to LAUNCH...LANUCH it...It would get more than 15 feet
air easy.lmao..Other people were doing flips in the air with them.
i needed a lot of practice. It was strudy. it had to be. I nevered had
to that the Savage diff apart....but I snapped all the dog bones.lmao
Those were the first to go as soon as I installled the .247.....
Anyways, my current obsession....I have to make it work.lmao
I got it on sale (new for $30) 1/8 newbright corvette. It'll do 10 mph..
out of the box.lmao
There's only a 180 motor driving it.lmao WTF a servo motor
driving it...no wonder.lmao
I can actaullly get it run on 3S or 4S LI ION (18650).
but that poor little motor.lmao
I pick up an unbrand..KT12 or HBX thunder....for only $42.
It's a good thing you made this video of all the different parts
of the differental.....it's coming back to me..
Im going take the drive train from this 4x4 trucggie and install it
in the 1/8 corvette....
Now Im also sort of stuck on the idea of 4x4 corvette.lmao
And of course I found out there;s a 2 speed trans for the HBX.lol
I know you can get metal dogbones or out drive assembly for it.
I dont know....about the differental...it's probably the same
as these other trucks......
The truck comes 2 cell 18650 stock....OF course Im going to
try to run it on 3 or 4 ....maybe even 6s Li ION.lmao
I ordered 60A and 480 ESC. I have 550 motors...just incase.lmao
I can run 3s or 4s Li ION on the 1/10 scale GALLOP truckgie.
The ones with the cool looking frame like this WLtoy
It's only $23 on ebay becuase it's toy grade
It runs on a 390 brushed motor...The 4s li ion WORKS
fine with the STOCK radio...it's FASTER and fun to drive
around....
I also took the rear end apart...( I had to know.lmao)
There's only a 8T pinion gear in it..l;mao
You can easily put a 9T or 10 T in it.
The gear in between the pinon and differental.
It actaullly has LIMITED slip like a rear car.
The gears in it looks sturdy...
The only problem is ..how the wheel hex gets attached
to the wheels..the LEFT REAR wheel will fly off...
I JB weld/epoxy back it...it's holding up.
Theres room for a 9T pinion , easy
I cant take the metal pinon from the stock motor..
I order a couple of R/C 390 motors...just like the stock one
on the this truck or HBX..so i can just use a 9T or 10T pinion.lmao
You can also get the 1/16 Ironhide for only $16. It's only 2 wd
but the body looks just like this truck...
I blew out the stock RX running it on 3S 40 C li po...lmao.
It's fast...Im just waiting the 60A esc and extra RX
to come in ...so i can them on these 1/16 scale
I have 2 trucks in transit...due tommorow.lmao
It's a simple drive train..there's only 3 gears
The pinon...a gear between the shaft..and shaft
con que lubricas los diferenciales?
With basic grease, like lithium grease.
cant u just put some oil in stock shocks?
no 😕
@@NobodyNoWhereElse why not man? Can't we just open the caps?
@@TX-ml2pk the shock will leak, there is nothing for sealing it.
i tried the metal gears upgrade. i have to agree that they don't mesh well. shims don't help (once the diff casing comes on there's no room for the shims). with the metal gears, the car is jerky and the gears lock up at low speed. the mesh is so bad that the car runs slow and on the first run it broke my engine. i guess that answers the question "what happens when an unstoppable force meets an immovable object?" maybe WLtoys will eventually make some metal gears for this great car, but those aftermarket gears you linked are not made by WLtoys. they are a huge disappointment and should be avoided IMO.
I managed to shim the diff. and the mesh is ok, not perfect but ok. Yes, these gears aren't good, 8x11 or 9x11mm shims are really hard to find also. Since the beginning the plastic gears are fragil. I talk about metal gears since i have the car, almost 2 years ago, wltoys did one plastic upgrade which also can fail, but no metal gears from Wltoys since 2 years.
Hi it did the same to mine crap upgrade made my car slow and very tough don't bother
Where would you recommend finding shims for this project?
take a look on my review, the link is below the video, there are more info there.
You know the links u put down for the props n shockers n that well its all in french or something like that n i aint got a clue wat the hell they are saying lol
Remove the "fr" at the beginning of the URL. But you can find the same shocks for cheaper on ebay or aliexpress.
That is just so wrong. First you assemble gears without grease and they make nasty sound and you say it.s ok. Then you pour oil in to shocks and dont bleed air under the piston. Now you have bubbles in your oil and the shocks will work like crap :(
Lol, you make my day dude. I don't show i put grease because it is unrelevant for what i want to show here. The metal gear on this car are far to be perfect, you won't have the same result than on better brand. About the shock, they are small shock absorber, if you fill them well there will be no "bubble". And for finishing, this isn"t a car for racing, it doesn't need hgh level assembly. Just watch my other videos, there are a lot, where i show how i assemble my diff., how i shim them, on way better brand than this one.
jou vas just a need oil a diferensials
DIfferential isn't sealed on this car so we can put oil in differentials.
wow those shocks would have been horrible with that much rebound, you need to seal them up with the shock shaft fully compressed in. You need to watch pro racers rebuild shocks not this guy
Lol, these shocks are far to be pro shock as the car also, this video was purpose to show the upgraded parts, not how to tweak the dampers.
Mine came with metal diffs