Pro Build
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- A comprehensive tutorial with advise from a real carpenter. To start... Check both sides of the casing for plumb with a 4-6 ft. level. Measure an inch wider and taller than the existing casing ( if the opening is way out, you may need to go wider) or 3 inches wider than an opening without casing. That way if the casing isn't perfectly plumb, it'll hide behind the door. You don't want to be able to see behind the door through the gap either. A customer complained about a door that I didn't build and asked me to fix it right.
Great teaching video. I looked for adler lumber but none is available in my area. I have put 8 inch carsiding in my office, just used polyeurethane with no stain. Really pleased with results. Having difficulty finding and alternative to using two 28 inch swing out doors for my side by side storage areas under my stairs landing, I happended onto your video. I am going to use your plans and use carsiding instead of adler. The braces will be trim med in brown and the reast poly. I know the carsiding is not as hard a wood as adler, but it is not that expensive, and it will work fine for me. On a smaller scale, I added double doors for a storage cabinet over my commode years ago that look as good today as they did 7 years ago. I just glued the strips together and held in a clam for 24 hrs and rounded the edges with a routher. Thank you for taking the time to share your expertise and experiense, and God Bless You!
you're welcome
Wait, who cares if a door is "fake"? It's a door not a designer handbag! It closes off a space from another space that's it, that's a doors only job. Anyone who's wondering if a door is fake or not has way too much time on their hands.
Great video though, thanks for sharing.
Eh. A hundred ugly drywall screws peppering the face of the natural wood just looks terrible. AND the door is NOT actually in a barn. People pay me about $600 /door. They want something nice for their money. And they get it
With a top hung door there is no need for the braces, the timber would be better used as rails to give the door overall stiffness. If braces are used then they look better paired and not laid the same way.
I made a barn door just like your video with T & G pine... I glue the side and top and bottom. After about 2 mouths my door warp on the top and bottom. What did I do wrong???
After some research I have learned 1) never glue the tongue and groove you need to allow expansion and contraction along the T&G. 2) alternate the grain between each of the field T&G all to reduce the inevitable evil warping common in these doors. Like the work you did and thanks for the fine craftsmanship.
I'll try the next one without the glue. Thanks!
I was using wood prix instructions to make it and I did it already :)
cheesy adds everywhere....
Wood Prick Scam= They want your credit card!!!!
@@jimaragon2110 You have to buy woodprix plans if you want to use it. How you want to pay without credit card or paypal?
i've watched a ton of videos on how to build these and I'll be using yours as my guide. Clear. Concise. Showed all the details.
Great video!
I'm making a double bypass (2 doors) and the only differences between mine and the way you made yours will be that I'm going to make the rails run the full width of the door and the stiles shorter and I'll be using an X brace design rather than the Z Brace. Right now I have a load of Knotty Alder boards in the shop waiting to be milled, tounged and grooved (that's going to take forever). Thanks for the build design!!! I always appreciate an excuse to use my Kreg Pocket Hole jig. :)
Why wouldn’t you put the diagonals mirrored to each other?
Really enjoy the video
Invest on a Festool Domino 700 if you want a strong door without ugly pockets
Dear HUG a VET,
Thank you for your nice video!
Which wood are you using, oak?
I am not using glu for my doors, because of the climate here. Do you think that only the staples are strong enough? Also for outside doors?
For one door I used glu, however this went really wrong since the door ripped en became round.
I am also using the Kreg pocket system and screws.
Thanks in advance!
I haven't done any exterior doors. I'm using poplar here but I have also pine. Choice is yours. Any hardwood is good. Pine is very soft and over time, gets banged up
At the time of the American Revolution, England was the largest manufacturer of nails in the world. Nails were expensive and difficult to obtain in the American colonies, so that abandoned houses were sometimes deliberately burned down to allow recovery of used nails from the ashes. This became such a problem in Virginia that a law was created to stop people from burning their houses when they moved. Families often had small nail-manufacturing setups in their homes; during bad weather and at night, the entire family might work at making nails for their own use and for barter. Thomas Jefferson wrote in a letter: "In our private pursuits it is a great advantage that every honest employment is deemed honorable. I am myself a nail maker."
The term "penny", as it refers to nails, probably originated in medieval England to describe the price of a hundred nails. Nails themselves were sufficiently valuable and standardized to be used as a medium for barter.
Bob, can you provide a detailed listing here of the materials and lumber used? Things like fasteners, lumber dimensions, etc. This would be useful in replicating your design for a couple closets I would like to try this on. Thanks!
+David Gutierrez i buy my track on Amazon.
As far as materials go it depends on the opening and how wide you want your boards. I use 8PC 5 inch T&G and 4PC. S4S. but them all 8 ft and trim to fit
I don't know if I would call this "Pro Build". You should NOT have glued all those boards together. There is no need for all that glue. You are not allowing for each board to expand and contract, which they need to do from season to season. Some of the comments talk about their door cracking, twisting, warping etc.. All the boards need to acclimate to the season and be dry before building. This means around 8 to 10% moisture content. Big box stores may not provide this level of dryness, so if you are not sure and do not have a moisture meter, simply stack all your boards in a dry and warm place for a couple weeks or so and this should dry them out. Then let them acclimate to your home's climate for a few days before machining and cutting. To allow for proper shrinkage and expansion, you need to leave the appropriate gap between each board. In the middle of the Summer when humidity is at the highest, the boards will have expanded to their limit. (this is why we let the boards acclimate to your climate). Therefore, the boards can be butted up to each other. I would not clamp them tight, but just push them home which may leave a little room left for residual expansion. In this manner, when the boards contract during the drier months, they will simply leave a space between each board revealing the tongue. This is why we use tongue and groove and do NOT glue them together. Do just the opposite if you are building the doors (or tabletop) in the Winter or drier months of the year. Start by leaving a slight gap (up to 1/8") between the boards when assembling the doors. When the boards need to "move" they simply bend the brads. If using screws, just make the home for the screw oversize so the screw can move in it's hole with the door.
It is OK to glue and face nail the outside boards on both edges of the door. But DO NOT glue the tongue of the boards at all. Just brad nail through the tongue of each board.
Using this method to construct your door, you will be sure that your boards will never crack. I hope you understand this concept of wood shrinking and expanding due to humidity changes and how to overcome this when edge joining several boards together. If you have questions or need further explanation, feel free to contact me. The rest of Bob's video is great for building these barn doors. Just don't glue the edge joints.
Hey John. Thank for you the detailed explanation - helped a lot when I was building my first door. I have a few under my belt now and am still looking for the most ideal joinery. I'm currently creating a frame with pocket holes and using some wood glue at the miter joints. Once the the frame is built, I face glue one t&g board to the frame (usually on either end of the door for most designs) to act as an anchor and then brad nail the rest of the t&g boards to the frame, leaving about an 1/8" flex room between the boards. I then finish with a few coats of stain and polycrilic. Do you think this method is acceptable for seasonal contraction in a humid region or should I be looking for a better alternative?
Thanks for your comment John. Makes perfect sense. this method has been working well for me. I live in an EXTREMELY dry climate. We rarely see 35% humidity. My lumber is milled locally and I'm trying to avoid major shrinkage. However, I do see your point and I'll build the next one WITHOUT gluing the T&G and see how it goes.
I Appreciate the comment!
On ne colle pas des planches languettée ensemble, quand le bois sèche, il rétrécit et se fend.
I think the diagonal braces should be going opsite directions
Master craftsmen also don't use pocket screws....
What grid sandpaper did you use to sand with I must have missed it thanks
What length are the staples? Excellent video.
Hey mate, thanks for the video... just now ran across it. Learned things from it. I've made many barn doors custom order. I use dowel to hide all wood screws.
Your deck is sensational and what a view mate! Ponderosa pines perhaps
First, this is a well done video. Thank you for the post.
But I do have a question, I built a barn door like this a couple years ago for my bedroom (prior to watching this video) without pocket screws, but using glue and nail gun, but I had a center rail as well. A problem I ran into with my door was the moisture inside the wood (stock wood and tongue and groove from Lowe's). The moisture content within the stock wood is really high. So in the winter, when the heaters started running in the house, the door started to contract and you could hear loud crackles as the wood was trying to contract, but it was being held by all the glue. (doesn't help that the heater is directly above the door). by the second winter, the door is completely bowed and the horizontal rails have popped off (I did not use pocket screws).
One thing I will do differently next time, is not glue the tongue and groove together to allow for expansion and contraction, and i would definitely use screws instead of just brad nails in the rails to the tongue and groove. My question is, do you not have these issues with warping when you are gluing the tongue and groove boards together? Or expansion and contraction issues when using stock lumber from big box stores like this? I could acclimate the boards longer, but I still believe these issues would arise.
I just had a door warp on me.
It was straight and true when I installed it.
It's at 10,000 ft. Elevation. Very dry climate.
I'm thinking it warped due to the painter spraying it heavily with a water based stain.
However, you may be onto something with gluing the T&G.
If you learn that I've been doing it incorrectly, please let me know. I'm always open to change for the better.
Thanks for your post!
enjoyed your video. will be building my own doors soon. One suggestion, get a better camera.
Yeah, that was my phone. I can't collect my $800 from YT. not interested in doing videos for free. Takes time
I would like to respectfully take issue with your idea that barn doors were built by highly-skilled craftsmen 150 years ago. The typical barn door in the 1800's was built by the farmer himself -- and he used the forged nails that were readily available at that time. Casual observation of the doors installed on an old barn will reveal that each door is held together by many nails. Because it was merely a barn door (not a fancy parlor door), the farmer didn't care if nails showed.
Over two years later, STILL a great instructional video. BIG thanks!
I like the barn doors but if I were to hang them I would def have the brace going the opposite direction like I have over my bedroom windows
Bob, you move so fast! It took me 4 days to build the door and it looked like something made out of wet cardboard.
Great video. Thank you!
Very interesting but I don’t come here for religious advice. Just woodworking, thanks.
Maybe, one day you'll sneeze. Consider this a polite gesture. PS. I can't stand religion either. We are who we are, I shared a little of myself with you in this video. Take it or leave it, your choice. Thanks for your comment and sharing a little bit of yourself. No judgement, really. I live in a glass house.
Good luck in your woodworking and I hope you find it an enjoyable use of your time.
What do you like to build?
@@hugavet3049 Ok, no judgement either ;) I'm finishing all the woodwork on the house I constructed. I inherited a robland woodworking machine so gonna give it a try. Keep on the good work!
What a great video. Thanks so much for making it. About to make ky doors and so glad I found this before starting!
Hah! I'd like to have a barn too!
I'll post the pics of the finished project in a few weeks. these doors are going on the master closet and bath door openings.
thanks for your comments!
YOU ARE VALUABLE!
Great video! I'm making one of these tomorrow and I learned a ton from watching this. Thank you!
Exactly what I was looking for.
Thank you and God bless
Thanks for the video!
What would you recommend for a hand planer? I built a set a double doors and eventhough I know I don't "have" to do this, I would really like to.
Secondly, I know that a lot of people add a bottom guide to the door and cut that out as well. Did you do that with these does?
Thanks!
The best hand planer is a sharp one. I like the BUCK BROS. Stanley too. Start by taking off as little as possible to avoid chipping.
AND yes, I did route a groove in the bottom for the guide.
thanks Jim. I truly enjoy working with all the different species of wood and barn doors add so much character to a home.
Best video I've seen
Hi, i was hoping to see the back side of your door. I'm planning making a barn door between my bedroom and my master bath. The opening is 48inches wide, height standard . I need to figure out making a door with both sides looking decent. I been watching many videos having the back side not looking too good. I don't know if there's a way having the back matching the front?
Great video. Nice looking door.
Thanks
You can just repeat the pattern from the groom but it does make the door 3/4 inch thicker.
good job
i want a set for my open kitchen since i hate open kitchens
M J Ka
I AM A FAN OF YOUR YOU TUBE SHOW. CAN I ASK A POWER TOLLS 6 IN 1FROM YOU IDOL? EVEN IF IT IS USED ITS OKEY FOR ME.
Great Job!! How did u ever find T & G boards that were the same front and back, without the ugly bead on the back? I looked everywhere in my town for T&G like that. I found one place finally, however upon assembly I realized that only 1 side had a chamfer, making the true "V groove." The other side had no chamfer at all, and the boards just butted up together. I was so angry when I realized this. Yes, I could have taken a router and made my own chamfer, but decided to just put the grooves on the "good" side, and the non-groove on the "bad" side. Not to mention I went through about through about 100 pieces, just to find 7 good, however still warped, crowned, twisted, you name it, boards. I was so tired of fighting with the T&G that I think next time I will just use some furniture grade plywood, and route V Grooves on the front and back, rather than use the T&G, which I honestly think looks better and more "barn-like". Its bad when you can't even find what you are looking for, and are forced to make a compromise just to "make it easier on myself".
Well bro, i feel ya. I order my material from the mill. That's really the only way to go for professional results. You can occasionally get lucky at the big box stores but it's hit and miss with limited selection.
Great job. The wife has been bugging me for some barn doors...this gives me some good ideas. I really like the "no fastener" look, and using tongue-and-groove with a flooring stapler really seals the deal.
I was short on time when i installed them in my brother in laws house so i went to lowes and bought a kit. But for next time ill make my own. Thanks for sharing
Great video. You make it look very easy and doable. I have been wanting to make a barn door but I want to make the barn door out of tongue and groove bamboo flooring. Do you think that's possible?
Sure
Hey Bob nice job on the doors, i make these kind of doors too, and they certainly catch the eye, but there is one thing that gets me about the hardware that hags the door, the cost, it's unbelievably high priced. is there any company that might be cheaper that you may know of ?
Oh yeah. I buy my stuff on Amazon. No particular brand. I've used several
Thanks Bob! Great video and will be tackling this project soon and will let you know how it goes and send pics.
Nice clear how to video. Thank you.
Excellent video. Very professional presentation. I learned a lot. Many thanks!
Thanks for the excellent description and pointers. Could use some qc on my project.
Very nice job! Perfect timing , I have an 8' barn door to build for my pantry remodel. The pantry has 10' ceilings.
Why did you slant both door angled boards same direction??instead of opposite?
Continuity is paramount on a job. The customer can always find a reason to question any decision you make so, you need to be prepared with a logical answer.
She had another barn door to the bathroom. All 3 doors in this room matched.
Question - I just built 2 barn door frames just as you did Bob K. I did not install the tongue and groove boards yet because I noticed the doors are not square. When purchasing my boards for the frame I layed them all out on the floor at Lowe's to bake sure they where straight. I also cut 2 boards at a time to make sure they where equal. There are no gaps between the wood so im not sure why they are not square. Any tips would be appreciated! By the great vid!
It could be that your mitre saw is out of square. To find out, cut a board at 90 degrees and check the cut with a carpenters square, if not 90, then adjust your mitre saw. If the cut is square, it could be that your lumber is not a consistent width, or that your tape measure got caught on a rivet when checking diagonal measurments.
Nice, clear, concise, you did a good job.
+Carole Just Carole thanks for commenting! I really need to post a few more videos
Over the upcoming winter I think we are going to be able to set up our wood working area to be a lot more functional. I bought a Kregg jig a couple of years ago and I have been able to use it some, but I want to do more with it. I actually bought some pine tongue and groove earlier this week to make an odd sized door, so your video was very timely. Today the weather is messy so I can lay off the yard work and play with my door. After that I want to make a replacement kitchen drawer. Thanks for taking time to make this.
+Carole Just Carole / thank you!
I was taught that If a brace is to do it's job properly it should have two bearing surfaces. Never cut a brace to a point. 🤣😂😁😀😎
OK I get what you're saying, but it's purely decorational
@@hugavet3049 yep no worries .I've seen a dozen door builds and everyone does it. Not pickin on you . Just thought id mention it was how i was taught 45years ago. Keep up the good work. 🤣😂😁😀😎
Thanks, I'm in the process of building 6 of these
Was trying to figure out how to make my rolling barn door solid. This video really helped
Glad i could help!
great work!
one of the better videos I viewed when planning and making my barn door
love the video will post mine for you after done with your plans. great job
Awesome
Should have watched this before I started! Nice, thanks!
Thank you. Excellent video.
Great video. How wide of board were used for the stiles and rails? Thanks
+Monolito Montoya. 3/4x5 inch for the the frame and 3/4x5-1/4 T&G for the field.
Fantastic job Bob! Will you be doing another video on this topic soon?
+Best Access Doors . We'll see.
Thanks
Super video, thank you for sharing....
Great video! Thank you for sharing!
Loved the video, only thing is I would love a list of materials (tools needed) and sizes of wood. Discribe how to measure opening and how to measure what size you need to make the door. Also how to attach different sliders or rails. Thanks again for your video.
Measure 3/4 inch wider and taller than the existing casing or 3 inches wider than an opening without casing. That way if the casing isn't perfectly plumb, it'll hide behind the door. You're right. I should've mentioned that. Thx
Tomorrow I start fingers crossed
These are beautiful!
Thank you!
Awesome work! Thanks for the tips
Very nice, professional... building one for the commode.
+Ozark Hogfarmer / I've started taking a grinder to the back side and grinding on the joints to give it that hand scraped look for interest. Thanks for commenting
Good job 👍
Should the back side of the door be boxed framed as well? Nice vid.
puZAEdr / I don't. my doors are already 1-1/2 inches thick and the back side is usually inside the closet or up against the wall. I would do it if a customer requested and was willing to pay!
Good question and thanks for watching
Great, now all I need is a barn.
Did you fill the screw holes with wood filler also???
amazing craftsmanship!
That wood is absolutely beautiful
Leland Wigren / thanks so much! I really enjoy woodworking and everyone loves a barn door.
bob is the goat
Very nice work my friend.
Great video, thanks
Excellent job
Excellent work from a great craftsman.
+Jim Goodwin / thanks so much!
And God Bless you too..
Where did you get the nice lumbar? Our Lowes and Homeless Depot stuff is all junk.
+Lee Vogel / agreed. You need to find a local lumber yard. They are getting fewer and farther between.
These guys only sell to pros. and they make you prove it too.
Call up a few carpenters off craigslist and ask. Can't hurt.
Not a real carpenter, he would know how to use proper joinery and not have to use screws at all.
What's wrong with screws?
A simple thank you would suffice.
It was a great video. I can't wait to try it myself.
Fantastic. Gonna do it :)