When you take the 3 connectors off the part, do the simply pull right out, or is there a connector snap that holds the connector in. Seems I pull, but the connector will not pull out. Woe is me.
Not sure if this has any correlation with that but all my light have a flicker in the and is gets worse when I roll up and down the windows. Also my headlight did the same till I changed them to led . But thankfully all my lights still work blinkers and hazards too.
Or it could be that the module is starting to fail. Before mine failed completely the turn signals would stop working intermittently, and my dome lights were flickering. The headlights and brake lights were ok.
I know I can buy relays and solder them into the board, but I'm thinking of doing an external bank for them so I can use off the shelf relays and have it be serviceable. If I get it figured out I will make a video for sure!
This is just a quick emergency fix. All that was done was replacing one old LCM for another because the relays in the replacement are still old. The circuit board is from 1996 to give you some perspective. The proper fix for this vehicle is to bypass the LCM and install the Painless Wiring harness for the headlights. And the second part of the job is to install 4 new JSM1-12V-5 relays. You will have to use a soldering gun to remove the old relays and use electronic flux soldering to install the new ones. Its very simple and there are plenty of videos on RUclips.
I agree this isn't a permanent repair, but it got me back on the road. Most people aren't going to go to the trouble to wire in extra stuff and de-solder to old relays (myself included).
Is there a trick to removing the big white connector from the back of the LCM? I tried and failed.... Please help.
There is a lock tab you have to push to release it. Some times they can be a little sticky, so you may have to wiggle it as you push the tab.
Quick and easy fix. Wish they all could be like that. 😂
Yeah me too!
When you take the 3 connectors off the part, do the simply pull right out, or is there a connector snap that holds the connector in. Seems I pull, but the connector will not pull out. Woe is me.
Yes the connectors snap in. There should be little tabs you depress to release them. Hope that helps!
Not sure if this has any correlation with that but all my light have a flicker in the and is gets worse when I roll up and down the windows. Also my headlight did the same till I changed them to led . But thankfully all my lights still work blinkers and hazards too.
Sounds like you may have a ground issue or alternator issue.
Or it could be that the module is starting to fail. Before mine failed completely the turn signals would stop working intermittently, and my dome lights were flickering. The headlights and brake lights were ok.
I'd like to see you rebuild that one if it's possible.
I know I can buy relays and solder them into the board, but I'm thinking of doing an external bank for them so I can use off the shelf relays and have it be serviceable. If I get it figured out I will make a video for sure!
This is just a quick emergency fix. All that was done was replacing one old LCM for another because the relays in the replacement are still old. The circuit board is from 1996 to give you some perspective.
The proper fix for this vehicle is to bypass the LCM and install the Painless Wiring harness for the headlights. And the second part of the job is to install 4 new JSM1-12V-5 relays. You will have to use a soldering gun to remove the old relays and use electronic flux soldering to install the new ones. Its very simple and there are plenty of videos on RUclips.
I agree this isn't a permanent repair, but it got me back on the road. Most people aren't going to go to the trouble to wire in extra stuff and de-solder to old relays (myself included).