3D Printer Z-Axis UPGRADE
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- In this video I show you how I drastically improved my print quality by replacing the z axis threaded rod with a proper lead screw. This allowed me to get rid of the ugly lines that I got befor because the threaded rod wasn't precise enough.
STL files on Thingiverse: www.thingiverse...
Used lead screw: goo.gl/yncjzu
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If you really want to upgrade, add a timing belt and a 2nd lead screw.
www.thingiverse.com/make:185860
My Velleman has been a rock star ever since!
+Derek Kirkendall it is true that this would probabls help even more but it is quiet a bit more work. Maybe I will do it though
Derek Kirkendall I have a Pursa i3 Mk2, would this improve that already great 3d printer? I'm assuming yes but I'd rather ask to be sure 😉👍
Your printer already has lead screws on Z-axis
He was asking about the 1 motor and two leadscrews setup as opposed to two motors and two leadscrews which will get out of sync. Josef says to slam them all the way to the top and let them rattle for a few seconds to sync them back up. I do not know if it will improve the quality on a MK2 but it sure improves the fact it doesn't go out of alignment like it used to.
With the auto bed leveling the MK2 uses do you ever wonder why it has it? Even with a dead flat piece of glass on it the MK2 still needs to auto level because it slowly loses sync and even faster if you have the lift when retracting setting on when you slice (so it goes up and down a lot during printing). No two motors running off of the same control channel and without and feedback can ever remain in perfect sync.
you should maybe print the same part, so we will be able to really see the difference. Good video anyway...
Yes, cause showcasing a printed part with an exaggerated layer height to a different part with a tiny layer height, realllllly shows how well the print turned out...
the layer shift still very clear i think
I had exactly the same symptom, but it has nothing to do with layer height. If you put an m8 thread against your print you'll realise your Z-axis threaded rod isn't running true and it's pulling the X-axis around as it rotates. Cheaper option to fix it is to move the Z motors to the top of the printer and leave the Z screws free at the bottom. Just print some brackets for the motors, swap two wires in the motor cable to make them run in reverse and you're done. Mine cost me $0.50 in filament.
Hope you’re well Sir. Built a Voron 0.1 partly inspired by your videos you shared more recently. Just finished the stock build and I’ve got to say, I’m amazed at how a ton of small changes in ideas and designs add up to so much of a difference is quality and speed.
you cant compare a curve and a straight. looks like he simply lowered the layer height (smh)
Thank you very much. I will try that on my printer. Richard
Impressive improvement. I've had the same issue. I have the rods to replace it, this is giving me the incentive to get around to doing the job. Main deal is I'll have to print up some things to attache the nuts to my existing system.
Nice replacement video, might I add in the future it's better to compare two prints that are the same in any experiment. Looking forward to seeing more printer improvements.
You might consider taking the bearing off the top of the screw. If the lead screw is not perfectly straight it allows the top to wobble without moving the X axis as much. It's easy to try.
sick prints mega mind.
Are you comparing layer 0.25 to layer 0.08? Otherwise too high print speed, u can see waves.
Good Job!
nice simple change can make a huge difference.
Would like to get hold of a tr8x4 screw to try, change the "magic number" down to 0.02
Man like always you are a GENIUS!
Cool ordering mine now always suspected the standard one to be of lower quality
thanks for the video.
You should upgrade your x and y travel to get rid of the ripple effect which can be seen near your holes. At least tension the belts more!
You are very talented, thanks for sharing!
great job very helpful
Isn't it just a matter of correcting your e-steps on the Z-axis? :-)
Obviously not, because wrong e-steps dont explain IRREGULAR layer heights, layers would just all be too high or too low. - the periodic error he has in his first prints is a known problem with wobbly z rods, thats why the error is periodic with the rod thread pitch.
@@jeffreylebowski4927 accualy wrong step per mm value is explain that , if z axis move dows 0.18 instead of 0.2mm , layers of printed part is gonna squeeze between bottom layer and nozzle , few layers later , bottom layer gonna be too close to nozzle and extruder gonna skip some steps. so last layer is not printed in this situation , and when it comes to next layer , nozzle have enough space to print current layer. at te end of print , you missed some of the layers and did squeeze some of them too , this is explain this issue.
@@furkanbicer154 Im guessing you dont have a 3d printer, because thats not how any of it works.
When the nozzle is moving up (not down) 0.18 instead of 0.2mm, then the excess extruded plastic will squeeze out into a wider track and the resulting layer will be only 0.18mm high and not 0.2mm.
If the nozzle moves up 0.18mm from the last layer, the resulting next layer cant be higher than 0.18mm, that doest make any sense, - the excess plastic will just make the tracks wider.
The problem in the video is, because of a z axis wobble.
@@jeffreylebowski4927 yes i have, all of them custom made. Ultimaker , makerbot , hypercube , markforged , all of them 3d printer right? Z axis going down while printing. And x axis can move 0.18 mm instead of 0.2 mm if your step per mm value is wrong or z axis stepper motor skipping steps.
@@jeffreylebowski4927
Most of the issues with the cheap threaded rods are mechanical (bent rods, non-concentric coupling to stepper, worn threads/nuts etc) but another less obvious issue which cam cause regular banding patterns is the Z axis resolution, which is determined by threaded rod screw pitch and the stepper resolution. If the minimum Z step size is not exactly divisible into the selected layer height (which tends to be round numbers like 0.2mm) then during printing some steps will be a little shorter and some a little longer than the target height, so whilst it will average out to 0.2mm over the print the individual layers will vary a bit. This can be fixed by specifying a layer height which is an integer multiple of the Z axis resolution.
Dude has the head shape of megamind... great content tho :)
so you replaced your 8mm lead screw by a better 8mm lead screw? it's just that the original one was bad?
well, the original wasn't a lead screw, just a threaded rod which isn't precise at all and I replaced it with a proper lead screw that is intended for use like this.
a 4 point lead screw is not "the same thing" as a threaded rod. look closely at your lead screw on your printer. now look at a normal "bolt" see how they are not the same thing? HIS has a thread rod (a long BOLT essentially ie a screw) while a lead screw is quite different.
Hi. I just got a new lead screw, trapezoidal, 4 leads, 2mm pitch. How can i get to the setting to modify the software side? Thanks.
you look like someone who could stop a bullet with his mental powers
wtf ahahahahaha this is the best comment in the world ahaha
solo un italiano potevo uscirsene con un commento così... XD
eh già! Abbiamo una discreta fantasia! ahahah
Mandark?
Accap eh già
keep going! good stuff!
great, this will save my k8200 as I was thinking to give up on this issue
nice, tell me how it went for you when you are finished
Hi Datulab, just wanted to let you know that I finally upgraded the rods successfully and it improves quality a lot. I had to re-draw the 3d printed parts however in order to make it work with my screws and my setup. Thank you for posting this video and the files on thigyverse!
Hi man! Do you have more details about your printer? I'd like to see the project. Cheers!
How do you set Z axis on software with that screw in steps per mm is it 400?
Thanks good video.
Wow great video I thought I have seen them all but this is the first video on this matter that I have seen! you are a smart young man keep up the great work! I would love to get the file from you and mod my printer you made it this far you might as well reprint the part to the correct size and get rid of the wood! print looks great
I made the same mod. I even solved the wood problem. See the video on my channel. I will publish other worthy modifications soon.
I definitely think you should close up the rods instead of the printings. thats we were interested to see the difference.
Can you show how you made the settings adjustment for the different threaded rods?
you have to go into the eeprom settings and change the value for the Z axis, just google it and you will find a guide how to do it.
Is this needed for ended 3?
Woah. you're tempting me. there are no files for my printer sadly :c
Timmmmy !!
Sebastian Wojciechowski ahahahaahaha
you're a genius ahahahahah
what printer is that? the hotend isn't moving at ALL!
+Down to a Science it's the Vellman k8200
seems like it would have been a lot easier to adjust your layer height
Hello! Is it possible to correct Z-axis skew (non-perpendicular to Y-axis) with firmware? Can autoleveling to solve this problem?
+Dima Balan not really, tecnically it should be possible, I haven't seen any option to do it in any program I tested. Your best bet would be to fix it mechanically.
Anyone know where I could buy M8 Z carriages?
This is a pointless upgrade in my opinion. You should add a second screw and drive both with one single belt. That would be much more beneficial than this upgrade. Of course, adding higher quality lead screws, ball bearings and fix the ends would improve even more. Also, it is a VERY bad idea to have a floating, flexible connection to the stepper. The ball bearings of the stepper will wear out and the flexible coupler will cause flexing in the Z. So, even if it costs more and takes more time, it is better spent time and money if you'd do all that instead of this upgrade.
what kind of threaded rod was on it before? a machine screw thread?
it was just plain old all thread
@@DarkArtGuitars that's crazy
looks like you improved the quality by simply changing the layer height. Before looks like .3mm whilst after is .1mm
no, layer height in both was 0.2mm
Did you have to make any software changes in the firmware?
I had to adjust the EPROM settings of the z-axis for the printer which you can to e.g. with Repetier Host.
so I just finished installing this setup. Do you happen to know the pitch of the lead screws you proposed?
for the one I got it is 8mm per revolution, it varies though from model to model as there are many different ones out there.
Thank you for the fast reply, yes you are right, I just measured mine and it is 8 mm as well. I wonder if the precision in z is not getting lost with the high pitch? well I will find out :-) Worst case I order a different lead screw
I didn't notice any problems of that nature with my printer, as the stepper motors are really accurate and could easily do even finer motion.
What step number did you plug in in marlin?
for me it was 400 but it might be different for you if you have different micro stepping settings. Just put it to e.g. 400, then click on "extrude 100mm" and then measure how far the filament moved. If it is 100mm then fine and if not you need to change it.
400?! I'm talking about the z-axis number.
Yes, 400 steps per mm for the z-axis.
Is it working at an Ender 3?
Ender 3 already has one
There is no way to distinguish if it actually made an improvement, you compared 2 parts with absolutely different geometries, not a good baseline..
Great video, thanks for share it. What brand of 3d Printer you use?
+Alejandro it's a Vellmann k8200
If I was to replace my threaded m8 rods with these t8 lead screws how do I change the code for the new lead screws as you mentioned at 2:15 minutes?
You have to adjust the number of steps per mm for the Z axis in the eeprom settings of repetier host.
Datulab Tech okay thanks for that I'll order some lead screws and give it a shot!
My print quality isn't the best you can almost see every layer despite flow, speed and heat
"before" not "befor"
0:10 what
"on the zed axis of my 3d printer"
Hello,
Sorry but: I think you forget something,
I do not think you can compare two different prints with each other!!! :-(
Friendly greetings from The Netherlands
Rob.
z axis is like column and not reenforced. stop chasing nano meter. not even HAAS with extruder can print better. 3d printing process not allow it
Ну шо поделать шипелявит пацан малясь.
you are ganz schön am lisbeln mein bester * hahahaha
yep but even though he does make these videos. even in english! which is quite awesome! :)
its bullsht... not same model...
чудовищный акцент
Mars Attack they're here
Just say timmy!!!
listening to you struggle with english is not easy...
Making a video with your first language is hard, making it with your 2nd language is even harder,.
you look like Megamind