I'm in the process of teaching myself how to use silver solder (56% silver) to solder the scarf joints of metal cutting band saw blades. The blades are .035 thick X 3/4"wide. The scarf joint angle is 20 degrees. My paste flux is what the jewelers supply house recommended for my use and sliver solder. I'm using the same Victor torch and tip size as you are in this video and a jig and clamps to hold the blade ends straight and flat to each other. I have a couple questions. Is there any reason to hold the angled ends of the blades slightly apart from each other or should I fit them as tightly together as I can without the angled surfaces riding up on each other and ruining the alignment? Once the silver solder melts and appears to run down into the joint, should I pull the torch away immediately or is it ok to lightly play the torch flame back and forth a little from one end of the joint to the other to make sure the solder flows completely from one end of the joint to the other? (With electronics solder or pipe solder, it seems like it's a one shot deal. Once it flows into the joint, get the heat off it immediately) Can I get away with cutting off a piece of silver solder (or two pieces) the width of the joint and laying it on top of the flux right over the joint then applying the heat from the torch? This may help insure uniform spread of the silver solder in the joint. Thank you for passing on your knowledge in this video!
Which one of your methods do you suggest as having the most bonding strength to the associated metals you're soldering? Also, is it mandatory to use the different types of flux paste to act as a bonding agent for the different types of metals you illustrated? As well, do you specifically have to use the particular types of solder you displayed in bonding all these metals? I ask for the reason that a layman like myself, I normally use 50/50 tin & copper solder combination with paste flux to bond small jobs together. For the most part, is it acceptable to mix & match the methodology or better to stick with specific solders & paste for each individual metal for stronger adherence? Interesting video sir,, thanks for taking the time to share..
nicely done , patience is a virtue would like to see some of your projects,
thanks for your time and wisdom !
asfcharters1
Thank you.
Good presentation.
I'm in the process of teaching myself how to use silver solder (56% silver) to solder the scarf joints of metal cutting band saw blades. The blades are .035 thick X 3/4"wide. The scarf joint angle is 20 degrees. My paste flux is what the jewelers supply house recommended for my use and sliver solder.
I'm using the same Victor torch and tip size as you are in this video and a jig and clamps to hold the blade ends straight and flat to each other.
I have a couple questions.
Is there any reason to hold the angled ends of the blades slightly apart from each other or should I fit them as tightly together as I can without the angled surfaces riding up on each other and ruining the alignment?
Once the silver solder melts and appears to run down into the joint, should I pull the torch away immediately or is it ok to lightly play the torch flame back and forth a little from one end of the joint to the other to make sure the solder flows completely from one end of the joint to the other?
(With electronics solder or pipe solder, it seems like it's a one shot deal. Once it flows into the joint, get the heat off it immediately)
Can I get away with cutting off a piece of silver solder (or two pieces) the width of the joint and laying it on top of the flux right over the joint then applying the heat from the torch? This may help insure uniform spread of the silver solder in the joint.
Thank you for passing on your knowledge in this video!
Thank you!
I never heard lead/tin solder referred to as silver solder, there isn't any silver in it. Correct?. Thanks for the demo.
Which one of your methods do you suggest as having the most bonding strength to the associated metals you're soldering?
Also, is it mandatory to use the different types of flux paste to act as a bonding agent for the different types of metals you illustrated?
As well, do you specifically have to use the particular types of solder you displayed in bonding all these metals?
I ask for the reason that a layman like myself, I normally use 50/50 tin & copper solder combination with paste flux to bond small jobs together. For the most part, is it acceptable to mix & match the methodology or better to stick with specific solders & paste for each individual metal for stronger adherence?
Interesting video sir,, thanks for taking the time to share..
Where can you buy the design's to put on spurs. I'm wanting to put team roper on a set of spurs
Outlaw Waterjet Designs has spur parts and Silver letters ect....
Why do you solder on a steel table? Surely the table conducts the heat away from the item you are soldering.
+Shark Eyone It works for me and is inexpensive.
What is better for words aka letters i cant seem to control the solder well
The Harris soft solder and liquid flux.
Can you solder copper, brass and silver to cast metal.
It is very possible. It kind of depends on the thickness and the ability work your heat. Try it on a test piece.
anybody else see the big spider crawling around under the table?
I think I missed it... Just sprayed the shop again.
This is soft soldering not silver soldering
Yes you are right! Sorry about that....
this should really be called brazing not soldering
+gamerepair2011 Yes, You are right.