i’m so confused why you didn’t just charge to 100% and the go for as far as you can go and see what the number is? why all the ridiculous math that has a huge margin of error?
That's a good question, let me explain! Because this is a standardized test I do with all cars, they have to be driven the same route and the same distance for the results to be comparable. And because different cars have different ranges, starting from 100% and driving down to 0% would yield different results - these results would not be directly comparable. For the most accurate the test is also an A-B-A test, meaning starting a one point, driving to another and driving back to the starting point. A-B-A testing eliminates variables like elevation changes and wind direction. Moderate winds can actually increase the consumption as much as 10% or even 15%, this is why doing A-B testing would give results that cannot be compared directly. I could in theory do A-B testing, and correct the results with math - but that math would be more "ridiculous" than the simple math done here. The math here is simple, and there is also educational value here as well. Imo knowing how to calculate range based on battery size and heat loss is something every EV driver should be able to do. Doing these simple calculations are also often much more accurate and reliable to calculate your range than the cars estimated range. If you've seen my long trip tests and races, I am consistently able to drive these EVs down to 0% and even past that without actually running out of juice - and that is because I am using one simple calculation to get a very accurate remaining range independent of SOC and what the car is telling me. Usable battery capacity divided by consumption x 0,97 = range Other than the technical aspect of the test procedure there are also practical aspects of doing the test this way. This test takes me about 4 hours from start to finish to do. Going to 100% would in most EVs take a very long time. Some EVs will take more than an hour to go from 90-100%. Add another 3-4 hours of driving on top of that, this takes suddenly takes twice the time. And because of what I wrote above, the results wouldn't be any more accurate - and most likely less comparable to other cars. Hope this clears up any questions you had about why this test is done this way! Cheers!
@@KrisRifaevery battery and system isn’t the same they have different calculation and usage. The most realistic one is a the simplest real world usage which is 100% all they way down to empty! Simple as that. The thrash hold for each battery system is different for that reason you can’t go by % you should go by the usage itself.
@@KrisRifa Ben brings up a good point. You are very knowledgable, but I kept searching for your video for the actual number, and could not find it. I was a little annoyed! Most of us are looking for 100 - 0 tests, which I thought this was.
Consumption is available on Model Y in left hand corner without getting into the menus. Allows you to keep the map menu on right pane available. Very easy. Don’t know about the Model S.
@@KrisRifa No its not. I would rather have a joy stick which i only have to use for tight situations and no more old fashioned grandfather contraption before me. If i want a sterering "wheel" i can go any buy a VW.
Hmm here in the states it only cancels the auto steering. It keeps the speed you are at, maybe an update is needed?!You can also customize the button for one click, or two clicks to activate auto pilot. But your right the round button is kind of hard to press sometimes in certain situations!
The EQ EVA2 platform line-up is getting a heat-pump this year starting with EQE SUV. Should get its winter record back. So wierd their cheaper models (EQA, EQB) have a heat-pump since the beginning but the more expensive models don't have it. But finally it will be fixed.
Probably because the EQA & EQB share a platform with ICE models so were cheaper to convert, and the EQE/S are ground up designs where there is lots of evidence of attempting to keep production costs down
Of course you won't get the max charging speed with the 500A ccs limit. Only SuC v3 is going over the 500A limit. At least the battery pack now supports a little bit higher voltage
Really good range, but why did you struggle to calculate the battery capacity? Just because the consumption display in Tesla is wrong. There is a cheat. I don’t know exactly how much. But if you do another calculation, reversed, you never will be able to find 20,9 kWh/100w. That been said the range of this car is excellent. And even one more kWh is not a big deal. But when you are talking about Model Y RWD and its lack of range in winter that is far less funny… Tesla transparency is not the best. The only solution is to do a 100-0% at 90 to minimise heat loss, that is a huge trip…
My tesla shows me i have e.g. 79% when i start and e.g. 64% at my destination. And it is correct. Or i start to go home from my customer and it shows 8% and then i get range anxiety and become nervous and my nerves flatter and my heart beats erratically until i'm home with 8%. So: Everything is correct. Where does Tesla display or calculcate wrong?
@@jeanmiegoiste Is it the kwh count that is off, or the distance? I would bet that the wh/km value is incorrect due to distance measurement error. This can be fixed with different diameter tyres, but will get more inaccurate as the tyre wears. To get accurate energy measurement, teslaspy is the 100% accurate option. But the same goes for any car, as is witnessed by teslabjorns 1000km tests. Some are over-reporting and some under-reporting
i’m so confused why you didn’t just charge to 100% and the go for as far as you can go and see what the number is? why all the ridiculous math that has a huge margin of error?
Model S is supposed to get a 400+ miles out of a full charge. You’re saying it only got 260 or so and this is good news?
i’m so confused why you didn’t just charge to 100% and the go for as far as you can go and see what the number is? why all the ridiculous math that has a huge margin of error?
That's a good question, let me explain!
Because this is a standardized test I do with all cars, they have to be driven the same route and the same distance for the results to be comparable. And because different cars have different ranges, starting from 100% and driving down to 0% would yield different results - these results would not be directly comparable. For the most accurate the test is also an A-B-A test, meaning starting a one point, driving to another and driving back to the starting point. A-B-A testing eliminates variables like elevation changes and wind direction. Moderate winds can actually increase the consumption as much as 10% or even 15%, this is why doing A-B testing would give results that cannot be compared directly.
I could in theory do A-B testing, and correct the results with math - but that math would be more "ridiculous" than the simple math done here.
The math here is simple, and there is also educational value here as well. Imo knowing how to calculate range based on battery size and heat loss is something every EV driver should be able to do. Doing these simple calculations are also often much more accurate and reliable to calculate your range than the cars estimated range. If you've seen my long trip tests and races, I am consistently able to drive these EVs down to 0% and even past that without actually running out of juice - and that is because I am using one simple calculation to get a very accurate remaining range independent of SOC and what the car is telling me.
Usable battery capacity divided by consumption x 0,97 = range
Other than the technical aspect of the test procedure there are also practical aspects of doing the test this way. This test takes me about 4 hours from start to finish to do. Going to 100% would in most EVs take a very long time. Some EVs will take more than an hour to go from 90-100%. Add another 3-4 hours of driving on top of that, this takes suddenly takes twice the time. And because of what I wrote above, the results wouldn't be any more accurate - and most likely less comparable to other cars.
Hope this clears up any questions you had about why this test is done this way!
Cheers!
@@KrisRifaevery battery and system isn’t the same they have different calculation and usage.
The most realistic one is a the simplest real world usage which is 100% all they way down to empty! Simple as that. The thrash hold for each battery system is different for that reason you can’t go by % you should go by the usage itself.
@@KrisRifa Ben brings up a good point. You are very knowledgable, but I kept searching for your video for the actual number, and could not find it. I was a little annoyed! Most of us are looking for 100 - 0 tests, which I thought this was.
This is why we have Tesla Bjorn.
My diesel VW has a range of 1,200km, at 130kph+. 🤣
Consumption is available on Model Y in left hand corner without getting into the menus. Allows you to keep the map menu on right pane available. Very easy. Don’t know about the Model S.
They have removed that in latest Model Y and Model 3…. Don’t understand why…
the round steering wheel is now the default for the model s, not the yoke
That’s great!
@@KrisRifa No its not. I would rather have a joy stick which i only have to use for tight situations and no more old fashioned grandfather contraption before me. If i want a sterering "wheel" i can go any buy a VW.
It looks like Knight Rider, Kitt steering wheel... But it is not! 😁 🤣
@@wolfgangpreier9160 the round steering wheel is default, meaning the Yoke can be optioned. So yeah, it’s still great!
@@rrsilveiro Yeah. KITT had such a strong masculine voice. Love it! 😜
Hmm here in the states it only cancels the auto steering. It keeps the speed you are at, maybe an update is needed?!You can also customize the button for one click, or two clicks to activate auto pilot. But your right the round button is kind of hard to press sometimes in certain situations!
The EQ EVA2 platform line-up is getting a heat-pump this year starting with EQE SUV. Should get its winter record back. So wierd their cheaper models (EQA, EQB) have a heat-pump since the beginning but the more expensive models don't have it. But finally it will be fixed.
Probably because the EQA & EQB share a platform with ICE models so were cheaper to convert, and the EQE/S are ground up designs where there is lots of evidence of attempting to keep production costs down
Tnx for another great video 👍
Thanks for watching and commenting 😊😊
Great video 👍
Thanks!!
Of course you won't get the max charging speed with the 500A ccs limit. Only SuC v3 is going over the 500A limit. At least the battery pack now supports a little bit higher voltage
Bro you need to clean your Camera Lens ;-) Nice test tho ;-)
Yeah I know, didn't see it before I edited it.
Najpiękniejsze auto na świecie Tesla model S ❤
Really good range, but why did you struggle to calculate the battery capacity? Just because the consumption display in Tesla is wrong. There is a cheat. I don’t know exactly how much. But if you do another calculation, reversed, you never will be able to find 20,9 kWh/100w. That been said the range of this car is excellent. And even one more kWh is not a big deal. But when you are talking about Model Y RWD and its lack of range in winter that is far less funny… Tesla transparency is not the best. The only solution is to do a 100-0% at 90 to minimise heat loss, that is a huge trip…
My tesla shows me i have e.g. 79% when i start and e.g. 64% at my destination. And it is correct. Or i start to go home from my customer and it shows 8% and then i get range anxiety and become nervous and my nerves flatter and my heart beats erratically until i'm home with 8%. So: Everything is correct.
Where does Tesla display or calculcate wrong?
@@wolfgangpreier9160 8% is 8%. No problem. The problem is the value, the KWh count spent during a trip is off for me. No problem with range anxiety.
@@jeanmiegoiste Is it the kwh count that is off, or the distance? I would bet that the wh/km value is incorrect due to distance measurement error. This can be fixed with different diameter tyres, but will get more inaccurate as the tyre wears. To get accurate energy measurement, teslaspy is the 100% accurate option. But the same goes for any car, as is witnessed by teslabjorns 1000km tests. Some are over-reporting and some under-reporting
i’m so confused why you didn’t just charge to 100% and the go for as far as you can go and see what the number is? why all the ridiculous math that has a huge margin of error?