Well... I've got a SpigaZT on my barebow setup and I just cut and bent the wire, in order to make it kinda like you said, with the sharper angle and so on. It's a super simple and effective mod.
I didn't even consider the location of the arrow contact point on the wire being directly under the centerline of the plunger being so important. That's 100% geometry and you're 100% right.........You're all about the science Jake. Spigarelli should offer different wire configurations.
I have the std ZT arrow rest and I don’t think you will find as many concerns with that rest. I felt the micro adjustment was an overkill for the rest you tested.
i binned the standard wire and replaced with a titanium wire that i made instead, this now swings totally flat against the riser when the arrow passes, just used a small butane heater to heat and bend the titanium wire to shape, not had one break ever, lighter with less inertia. a couple of quid to make :-) The rest/knobs need stripping off and greasing with silicone grease, just a little TLC and they get there, but I agree not really an advert for good machining. i have two bows with these rests and the QC on them is Friday afternoon after lunch. i also binned the Allen head that connects with the magnet and used a short stainless grub screw instead, less magnetic but enough to work perfect and again a big drop in mass and inertia. Overall a good rest, never moves when set and has never broken this aids peace of mind that it does it's job and will not fail.
Recently I have been watching some of your tutorial series and kudos for your efforts. I wish I watched this particular video because yesterday this rest finally arrived and I installed it on my daughter's recurve and boy those micro-adjustments are super tight, basically unusable. Eventhough the horizontal clamp was loose as I was turning the knob via its other end with a tiny allen/hex wrench the head screw scrapped metal a created a groove, like a spinning lathe, I was shocked. I think you gave this rest way too much credit, I like the other issues you pointed out, like that of the H/V tracks are not groove and that's what one would expect from a Hori/Vert stage to have, otherwise it's NOT a stage. There is no point for paying for return shipping and I am going to have keep this rest, but for $100 and a "brand name" I was expecting much much more. My respected father would classify this rest as the combination of Italian and Chinese engineering crooks.
Just an FYI, on Lancaster Archery Supply this rest is listed as "Spigarelli Super Recurve Rest". The "Spigarelli Zero Tolerance (ZT) Rest listed on their website has no vertical or horizontal adjustments,
I watched this video about the time I ordered the Spig ZT (Non- MA model) for my barebow riser. I love your knowledge and experience, but I think you missed an opportunity making this video. It is true the point is annoying if you run it outside the shaft. However, if you run it under the center of the shaft, it aligns very nicely with the plunger and gives you two minimal contact points on the riser (Plunger/ wire tip). I was amazed how cleanly the arrow left the riser compared to my stick on magnetic rest. Again, I think your points were very valid, but would have loved to hear your thoughts on the rest running the tip under the shaft compared to outside.
A FANTASTIC rest, no problem on my Arios riser and I've never had any issues adjusting it... Spiogarelli say on the instructions that if you need to adjust the wire further, it's ok to bend it with pliers...
Hi Jake, I think that horizontal marks are almost not visible because you moved vertical adjustment bar to its upper max so it almost covers them. Also, the wire is too short for this riser, perhaps not suitable combination. This type of rest has the wire joint quite far from riser due to adjustment mechanism and so wider risers need longer wire than usual. The wire itself can be bent to reach the most suitable angle and shape to support the arrow.
Really good review Jake, thank you. I've got one of these on my Uukha Xpro2 riser. What I like is that I can be 100% confident the rest won't fall off and will never wear out. Its fiddly to set up, but once you've done it you can be confident it won't change so you can just forget about it. I agree with the points you made about the strength required to turn the adjustment knobs, and also the pivot point.
I started off with a nock off of a Spig rest, the thing I found annoying, was that it doesn’t have anything to stop it slapping the sight window. I switched to an SF rest, and found the same problem. Now I have a small stick on pad on my riser to stop the wire marring the finish on my sight window. I also found the clicking sound it made on the shot annoying. I don’t think I ever had that trouble with AAE free flyte rests.
I had the spig and gave up on it and went with the Zniper. The Zniper come with two wires: indoor and field. I use the indoor for all shooting as it has the arrow contact at the plunger. I find his is a great combo for my Gillo GT 27".
Hi Jake. I've had an arrow rest like that. I have to say that you won't be able to use a regular beiter plunger. You will have to use an extra long screw beiter plunger because of the thickness of the rest support. My riser is a w&w ATF.
@@peterdraper1478 Beiter do different length barrels. If you get a long barreled one you can use the shibuys locking nut to use at as a short barreled one too.
The best way to set the ZT is to move the wire in until just the upturn on the end is in contact with the shaft, you will then get a much more consistent shot.
Just got mine and if you loosen the hex at the other end of the micro adjust screws that you say are tight to turn it loosens it and then no issues with using your finger.
I think you should design and manufacture under your name, an arrow rest and plunger. That way, if they pass your scrutiny the rest of us can go ahead and buy with confidence.
I have quite a few Spigarelli products, and while I generally do like them the QC is not good. I'd say a bit more than a third of them have some sort of quality problem. When I emailed them about a faulty riser they didn't even reply. So yeah - they have some nice stuff, but they are most certainly lacking in some areas.
Looking at this rest on Lancaster it looks like the wire is bent like you describe it should be. I wonder if either they changed their design or the one you received was altered.
Jake, would love to know what you think of the bi-drop rests which have started to come out. they drop down as well as in and are supposed to be better for string walking, minimising (or even eliminating) the chance of bounce. doing a google search, the only one I can find is the Gabriel GUX bi-drop
I don´t like this style of Rest for Barebow. And in this case, having the opportunity for micro adjustments but the whole rest is all over the place while "micro" adjusting simply doesn´t make any sense to me. But, if it works, it works, right? I won´t be changing from the Zniper anytime soon if ever. because it works for me.
Having used both the standard ZT (35 dollar version) as well as the Zniper, I suggest using the Zniper for when you have to crawl and the ZT is great when you don't. I'm no expert by any means but many world championships have been won (and records set) with the humble ZT.
From experience, ALL these type rests have the same issue, the rest arm has to be way too long. Have a look at the Spigarrelli Revolution 2 and it's specific rest. It needs the referencing marks which it lacks, but the arm is right in the same place as it would be on your normal flipper rest, but you have vertical adjustment not only of the rest, but also of the button. Instead of using a knurled knob for vertical and horizontal adjustment, they simply used a hex key, then this would be so much better.
I originally a ways back bought an Avalon Axis rest it looks like this BUT the rest sticks on the riser INSIDE not at the back like yours, and it caused arrows to get damaged on the flight through etc, was a bad piece of technology.
Im new to Olympic style archery. Ive watched some videos and people will talk about screws coming out of stuff. Im ex competition shotgun and handgun. So i ask. Why dont bow shooters use blue lock tight?
@Thomas Branch - You can but if you use it on those tiny micro screws, you might have problems to open them again later. Very often the quality of the steel isnt that good so it happens very likely that you destroy the screw head with the use of higher forces.
The micro-adjustment knobs are basically nuts with texture outside and it looks like they put some thread locker and that has the be DUMBEST way of making a stage driving-knob because clockwise it will just cause more binding and counter-clockwise it might just unscrew from the actual X or Z "stage" driving screw. So using the allen/hex wrench on the actual screw is the more certain but inconvenient way of making XZ adjustments. The Z locking has a washer whereas the X locking screw does NOT because it would NOT fit, POOR design/fabrication, even 3rd world countries artisan in remote snowy mountains would make a better rest. :)
![ARGENTINA vs. BOLIVIA [6-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 10](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/C3wPtKNbAOA/mqdefault.jpg)
Well... I've got a SpigaZT on my barebow setup and I just cut and bent the wire, in order to make it kinda like you said, with the sharper angle and so on. It's a super simple and effective mod.
I didn't even consider the location of the arrow contact point on the wire being directly under the centerline of the plunger being so important. That's 100% geometry and you're 100% right.........You're all about the science Jake.
Spigarelli should offer different wire configurations.
I have that rest on my Olympic Recurve. Since I have arthritic hands, I definitely needed plyers to adjust.
I have the std ZT arrow rest and I don’t think you will find as many concerns with that rest. I felt the micro adjustment was an overkill for the rest you tested.
i binned the standard wire and replaced with a titanium wire that i made instead, this now swings totally flat against the riser when the arrow passes, just used a small butane heater to heat and bend the titanium wire to shape, not had one break ever, lighter with less inertia. a couple of quid to make :-)
The rest/knobs need stripping off and greasing with silicone grease, just a little TLC and they get there, but I agree not really an advert for good machining. i have two bows with these rests and the QC on them is Friday afternoon after lunch.
i also binned the Allen head that connects with the magnet and used a short stainless grub screw instead, less magnetic but enough to work perfect and again a big drop in mass and inertia.
Overall a good rest, never moves when set and has never broken this aids peace of mind that it does it's job and will not fail.
I bought a pair of boots, I just needed to replace the soles, laces, filling, and leather. Great boots though. ;)
@@msms7434 Just needed polishing ;-)
Recently I have been watching some of your tutorial series and kudos for your efforts. I wish I watched this particular video because yesterday this rest finally arrived and I installed it on my daughter's recurve and boy those micro-adjustments are super tight, basically unusable. Eventhough the horizontal clamp was loose as I was turning the knob via its other end with a tiny allen/hex wrench the head screw scrapped metal a created a groove, like a spinning lathe, I was shocked. I think you gave this rest way too much credit, I like the other issues you pointed out, like that of the H/V tracks are not groove and that's what one would expect from a Hori/Vert stage to have, otherwise it's NOT a stage. There is no point for paying for return shipping and I am going to have keep this rest, but for $100 and a "brand name" I was expecting much much more. My respected father would classify this rest as the combination of Italian and Chinese engineering crooks.
I just got a Z.T. Spigarelli rest as a gift for My girlfriend. So far so good. Working really good for barebow and super high Quality.
Just an FYI, on Lancaster Archery Supply this rest is listed as "Spigarelli Super Recurve Rest". The "Spigarelli Zero Tolerance (ZT) Rest listed on their website has no vertical or horizontal adjustments,
I watched this video about the time I ordered the Spig ZT (Non- MA model) for my barebow riser. I love your knowledge and experience, but I think you missed an opportunity making this video. It is true the point is annoying if you run it outside the shaft. However, if you run it under the center of the shaft, it aligns very nicely with the plunger and gives you two minimal contact points on the riser (Plunger/ wire tip). I was amazed how cleanly the arrow left the riser compared to my stick on magnetic rest. Again, I think your points were very valid, but would have loved to hear your thoughts on the rest running the tip under the shaft compared to outside.
A FANTASTIC rest, no problem on my Arios riser and I've never had any issues adjusting it... Spiogarelli say on the instructions that if you need to adjust the wire further, it's ok to bend it with pliers...
Hi Jake, I think that horizontal marks are almost not visible because you moved vertical adjustment bar to its upper max so it almost covers them.
Also, the wire is too short for this riser, perhaps not suitable combination. This type of rest has the wire joint quite far from riser due to adjustment mechanism and so wider risers need longer wire than usual. The wire itself can be bent to reach the most suitable angle and shape to support the arrow.
Thanks for the great work Jake i just purchased this rest by Lancaster following your review.
Really good review Jake, thank you. I've got one of these on my Uukha Xpro2 riser. What I like is that I can be 100% confident the rest won't fall off and will never wear out. Its fiddly to set up, but once you've done it you can be confident it won't change so you can just forget about it. I agree with the points you made about the strength required to turn the adjustment knobs, and also the pivot point.
I wish they'd decided to use a hex key instead of a knurled adjustment knob.
@@adamkilroe9840 Just get the AAE Free Flyte Elite, it does everything this can do but better and it's cheaper.
I started off with a nock off of a Spig rest, the thing I found annoying, was that it doesn’t have anything to stop it slapping the sight window. I switched to an SF rest, and found the same problem. Now I have a small stick on pad on my riser to stop the wire marring the finish on my sight window. I also found the clicking sound it made on the shot annoying. I don’t think I ever had that trouble with AAE free flyte rests.
I had the spig and gave up on it and went with the Zniper. The Zniper come with two wires: indoor and field. I use the indoor for all shooting as it has the arrow contact at the plunger. I find his is a great combo for my Gillo GT 27".
Aswome review. Jake . Your incredible for detail which is something us archer's have needed for many years . Thank you Jake
Hi Jake. I've had an arrow rest like that. I have to say that you won't be able to use a regular beiter plunger. You will have to use an extra long screw beiter plunger because of the thickness of the rest support. My riser is a w&w ATF.
Yes, I had that problem too with my Uukha riser. I had to use a shibuya button instead.
@@peterdraper1478 Beiter do different length barrels. If you get a long barreled one you can use the shibuys locking nut to use at as a short barreled one too.
The best way to set the ZT is to move the wire in until just the upturn on the end is in contact with the shaft, you will then get a much more consistent shot.
Just got mine and if you loosen the hex at the other end of the micro adjust screws that you say are tight to turn it loosens it and then no issues with using your finger.
I think you should design and manufacture under your name, an arrow rest and plunger. That way, if they pass your scrutiny the rest of us can go ahead and buy with confidence.
Awesome, super valuable info... definitely plan on making some modifications to address some of these issues!
If I were a gillo engineer I would buy you a good bottle for this
Could you recommend this rest for recurve archers or just for barebow?
I have quite a few Spigarelli products, and while I generally do like them the QC is not good. I'd say a bit more than a third of them have some sort of quality problem. When I emailed them about a faulty riser they didn't even reply. So yeah - they have some nice stuff, but they are most certainly lacking in some areas.
I prefer the one from AS, the CL10 for big arrows ( indoor )
and the rest from Gabriel, the Bidrop for the outdoor ( field )
Two excellent rests
thanks, I just ordered a cl10
Jake, is this rest working fine on a Mybo XR 25 riser?
I changed from Spiga ZT to Zniper rest and looking forward to your test of the Zniper. I'll not go back to Spiga.
You…. You know the Zniper is made by Spiga, yea?
Try the Zniper drop away rest, it could help compress your crawls
I'm not sure that drop away rests are permitted, though yes, it would help massively (and I think that's why they aren't allowed).
@@adamkilroe9840 They are permitted. Demmer uses a Zniper.
Looking at this rest on Lancaster it looks like the wire is bent like you describe it should be. I wonder if either they changed their design or the one you received was altered.
Jake, would love to know what you think of the bi-drop rests which have started to come out.
they drop down as well as in and are supposed to be better for string walking, minimising (or even eliminating) the chance of bounce.
doing a google search, the only one I can find is the Gabriel GUX bi-drop
I don´t like this style of Rest for Barebow. And in this case, having the opportunity for micro adjustments but the whole rest is all over the place while "micro" adjusting simply doesn´t make any sense to me.
But, if it works, it works, right? I won´t be changing from the Zniper anytime soon if ever. because it works for me.
Having used both the standard ZT (35 dollar version) as well as the Zniper, I suggest using the Zniper for when you have to crawl and the ZT is great when you don't. I'm no expert by any means but many world championships have been won (and records set) with the humble ZT.
From experience, ALL these type rests have the same issue, the rest arm has to be way too long. Have a look at the Spigarrelli Revolution 2 and it's specific rest. It needs the referencing marks which it lacks, but the arm is right in the same place as it would be on your normal flipper rest, but you have vertical adjustment not only of the rest, but also of the button.
Instead of using a knurled knob for vertical and horizontal adjustment, they simply used a hex key, then this would be so much better.
I originally a ways back bought an Avalon Axis rest it looks like this BUT the rest sticks on the riser INSIDE not at the back like yours, and it caused arrows to get damaged on the flight through etc, was a bad piece of technology.
I own the ZT and for me, it was ok. but not good. When I lost two of those many screws, the moment came to switch.
Im new to Olympic style archery. Ive watched some videos and people will talk about screws coming out of stuff. Im ex competition shotgun and handgun. So i ask. Why dont bow shooters use blue lock tight?
@Thomas Branch - You can but if you use it on those tiny micro screws, you might have problems to open them again later. Very often the quality of the steel isnt that good so it happens very likely that you destroy the screw head with the use of higher forces.
@@kalumeet1 I gotcha. Thank you
I had a choice between this Spigarelli and the AAE/Cavalier Free Flyte Elite. I have chosen Free Flyte Elite. Think I got lucky ;).
Not tried the spig, but I love my AAE FFE!
same here!
I bought it cause its perty and fits my new red bow..it should ship today :-)...ps.. oh and i can say Spigarelli a lot now.. Spigarelli spigarelli :-)
Yo Jake, metric is the standard. Not that stuff some of you Americans use.
What arrow rest would you recommend for Barebow??
Zniper
@Jake Kaminski Thank you, brother.
I got a zt and it doesn’t fit on my atf riser
It’s loud compared to AAE
The micro-adjustment knobs are basically nuts with texture outside and it looks like they put some thread locker and that has the be DUMBEST way of making a stage driving-knob because clockwise it will just cause more binding and counter-clockwise it might just unscrew from the actual X or Z "stage" driving screw. So using the allen/hex wrench on the actual screw is the more certain but inconvenient way of making XZ adjustments.
The Z locking has a washer whereas the X locking screw does NOT because it would NOT fit, POOR design/fabrication, even 3rd world countries artisan in remote snowy mountains would make a better rest. :)
That doesnt look like the zt, looks like their super recurve rest
Don't ya just hate those ineligible instructions? The least they could do is provide eligible instructions.
He's an archer, not an English teacher. :)
@@msms7434 I was going wade in with that but thought better of it because I'm english and a decent sort 🤣
Math was never my strong subject....
@@JakeKaminskiArchery geometry is the science
P