Backyard Railroad: 7.5" Gauge Train Car Frame Mounted on Train Trucks
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- ...and couplers mounted, too!
More on the steel train car frame in this video: • Backyard Railroad: Wel... (see description there for some measurement details)
Train trucks: Titan Trains Bettendorf Trucks
titantrains.net/
That small section of rail and ties: Accu-Tie Rail Systems
accu-tierailsy...
Our BACKYARD RAILROAD specific playlist here: • Our BACKYARD RAILROAD ...
Thanks!
Looking good, glad to see you have a little helper.
Thanks, Dave!
Cool daddy!
Nice job! You are correct about those washers! The trucks will derail like crazy without them because they won't pivot well on the curves.
FerrisMedia ...Thanks for the confirmation on that! Much appreciated!
@@minnesotaeerailroad8471 I know from first hand experience when I forgot to put them on at the rr park. :)
Yes you are right about the washers. I have 3 big washers on my cars. The only side to side on the car would be if the springs were good enough to move side to side. But I’d is really hard to get those springs to really keep the car on the track
The trucks need a half inch hole to flex enough on pivot pin to stay on track. It's the first thing I do when I get new trucks.
Interesting. Thanks! I haven’t heard that yet. We will keep that in mind especially because of our tight 20’ radius turns in our backyard.
@@minnesotaeerailroad8471 AND, because of your very tight 20' radius turns - I spotted that you didn't bother OPENING OUT the track gauge to allow the truck wheels to negotiate the turns easier either, so a loose pivot-hole could help there too, although I'd look to opening out your curve gauges (as do real railroads) to ensure you don't get flange lift - from an overtight gauge - when running at anything above walking pace.
1/4 inch added gauge should do - for a model whereas up to an INCH can be added to the track gauge of sharp curves - on real railroad track.
Oh and cant (spelt with an A that is) - I saw you placing a builders level on your track at the bridge, then doing the same going into the curve,
You would do well, in lifting the outer rail of your curves, by up to 1/4 to 1/2 an inch - to allow the "trucks" and axle sets - to "follow" the curve via gravity - rather than forcing the flanges to turn the trucks.
Another thing to watch out for is a twist - not an alignment twist - but that of reverse cant that can "toss" flanges higher on opposing corners of the trucks, derailing you again.
Little things that an inspecting track ganger knows, that most people who have never worked on / inspected railways know - yet is critical to getting your rolling stock running correctly - especially through curves & turnouts (which is why the turnouts have a slightly wider gauge by the way) without derailing - for no apparent reason?
Straight track gauge doesn't matter as much - so can be "tight" as there isn't as much risk of flange lift on straight track - but the tighter the curve radius - the quicker you'll get flange lift - without opening out the track gauge.
Little by little. Pretty soon you guys will have a wonderful train. Cool. See ya.
Norman Rowe ...See ya! Thanks, Norman!
looking good Erik...thanks for sharing your videos, I enjoy seeing your progress
Looking great! I remember how excited I was when my first car reached this stage. Looking forward to more videos.
John Tuten ...Thanks! And with the videos, I can’t wait to reminisce on all of this with my son, Elan!! Thanks for the encouragement!
great music! excited to see you guys working on the cars already.
Thanks, MSR!
looking great👍 😎
Sleeping with Trains ...Thank ya!
Love the entire vedio moments
Thanks!
Great Video Man..👍👍👍
Thanks!
Cool 👍👍👌👍👌🙋🏻♂️
Wow
Große Klasse. 😃👍🏻
Wieder einiges gelernt. Hab ein Abo dagelassen.
MfG Thomas
Song 😜👍 Thanks!
2:32
Maybe look at a flat looking "end-thrust" driveshaft washer - as that will have little bearings in it, to give your pivot point an easier "swivel" whilst also providing a strong pivot down thrust as a bearing wears far less, than a plain washer will (especially as the plain washers tend to rust somewhat and "bind" up the pivot).
The last thing you need (or want) is a pivot sticking - at a critical turn / curve thereby derailing your truck (with whatever wagon is atop)
Hence the use of a thrust bearing (or as some call them - an axial bearing) helps eliminate wear as well as providing a smooth reliable pivot action.
I’ll have to look into that. As of now we’re using a stainless steel washer and grease and so far, so good.
You should add safety chains. Most rail clubs require you to have safety chains
Kepner Films ...Yup! We will! I even want to make sure we have them for our backyard, too, with Elan being so young.
@@minnesotaeerailroad8471 Also - you mentioned in a different video (when doing the roof of the cab) that you need to stop the cable moving in & out (easily done with a cable tie either side of the slot) but then you mentioned coming apart ?
So a pull-apart multi-plug cord/socket set - could also be the answer there, which would help getting the controller off at public meets or public club running days, without raising the roof to do that.
Also - if needing to quickly get the loco parted from the train - a pull-apart plug/socket will improve that job.
But side chains are ESSENTIAL (especially If joining a club as public safety is always their biggest safety issue, which could see them loose a license to operate if safety chains are not there).
Also - are there any "brakes fitted to any of your rolling stock - as "pull-apart" safety/brakes could also be warranted - for club uses
Thanks! All good stuff! …We do not have breaks in the works, yet…
Hi Erik, I am thinking about doing the same thing you are doing in Oak Grove, MN. Not far from you. Did you buy plans for your car or are you just building your own?
Cool! No plans. But we started with some market standard trucks and couplers and looked into standards at clubs and whatnot. We also happened to purchase from Titan Trains and after our purchase, I asked a lot of questions on how they like to design their cars to better fit the trucks and couplers that we bought from them. You can find our email in the ABOUT section of our channel if you ever want to send an email of questions. Otherwise, all that we've done so far is right here! Good luck!
Next is air brakes.
Nice👍. Do you know of any drawings of ride in passenger cars with roofs?
No, sorry. Don’t know if any drawings of cars with roofs. Although, I feel like there’s a couple folks outside the USA that have fabricated cars with roofs. Let me go look and I’ll put a link I here 👍
Here’s the railway I was thinking of: youtube.com/@Elvinley
@@minnesotaeerailroad8471 Hah! I’ve been following that railway on RUclips!
Very good ideas. What will the car length be when finished?
5 feet
Oh and a little tip - NEVER EVER - at 3:22 onwards - tighten the center pivot bolt "snug" as you will need a little play in the "bolt" too - in case the twist of a truck entering a curve without the correct amount of cant - is encountered, to stop the truck flange lifting off the track as the truck cannot twist enough on the pivot bolt to offset there being no cant on the curve..
Using a washer is fine, until you need more "play" to allow the truck to "twist" more than you have allowed when entering curves - at which time - a derailment quickly follows.
Oh yeah! We backed off on being snug! We have lots of play in them now.
WE NEED AN UPDATE VIDEO NOW
Roman Bellic ...There’s been a couple videos since this video. How can I help? I recommend looking into our PLAYLISTS... Let me know
@@minnesotaeerailroad8471 i NEED MORE
Nice!!!! Where did you get the trucks???
Hi. Trucks are from Titan Trains. Be sure to check descriptions of our videos for links and all 👍 titantrains.net/
What’s the material to the trucks?
Aluminum?
No. Not aluminum… titantrains.net/bettendorf-trucks-pair-free-shipping/