Back in the 70’s and early 80’s I wrenched on those engine. Watching you rebuild that engine brought back some fond memories (especially of the Datsun mechanics that taught me; RIP Steve & Nick). Nobody can appreciate the robust design of these engines. I did not have one engine ever destroy itself even with all the abuse we gave it. If you know you know.
Wow, this brings back memories of my first car ('72 240) and rebuilding the engine with my sister's BF back in about '83. I used a mild WebCam aftermarket stick though. I painted it blue just like that too. I polished the cover though.
I love L-Series Nissan Motors they're all Logos, and virtual bulletproof! I built a Special Z24i motor for my 86.5 Hardbody with heavy duty everything! ARP head studs & rod bolts, 280ZX Turbo main bolts, Balanced lower end, High capacity oil pump, H-D distributor drive gear & driveshaft, oil cooler, ported and port matched head, intake, Mild cam, adjustable cam sprocket, headers, custom 2.25" exhaust system...rebuilt stock motor@ 272K and now at 426K with lots of awesome memories...Truck is a bit rusted but still solid and rolling....5 spd making noise and thinking about salvaging truck and keeping the motor....With Sidedraft carburetion I know this engine is pushing 250-260hp!!!!
they have a huge advantage over domestic cast-iron engine blocks- they were all made on state-of-the-art machines. the P3000 L28 turbo head bolts are more than strong enough. the main-bearing cap bolts you want to use in your L-series are the LD28 bolts used in the maxima diesel motor. playing with valve timing on a NAPS-Z motor is a waste of time, as is porting that intake and cylinder head, which by design commands a docile camshaft profile anyway. using twin-choke carbs on there is a huge waste as well. if you were to put a really high-lift cam in that motor- the valves would hit each other! the L-series head and 240Z carbs would make FAR more power. the oil pump from any L or Z-series motor would be fine for street use. playing with bearing clearances in that motor and then using it on the street will do nothing but blow it up.
Viewer protip: This is not how you polish crankshafts. This is how you reduce your engine's life span. Have it done by a machine shop with the correct equipment to polish the crank with evenly distributed force and in a single direction directly opposite to the direction in which the crank was ground which itself is opposite to the rotation of the bearings around the crank pins. Just because it looks smooth doesn't mean it is. Grinding and even polishing create microscopic burrs that if not laid out in the correct orientation will eat away at your bearing surfaces every time you have metal to metal contact, which is literally every time you start your engine. Spend some money to save a lot.
So how did the old timers get engines to last for decades and decades some over 100+ years old n still running... as a matter of fact my grandfather still has his model t pickup and that engine has been running in 1 piece without any serious engine work since 1954... still purrs like a kitten... 65 years strong on an engine that was rebuilt in 1964 in my grandfather’s backyard at that time..
All of this sounds great, and a machine shop will certainly do a better job getting journals into perfect condition. That said, this microscopic burr shit is just that. This guy is using a soft cloth with some ultrafine polishing compound. The biggest imperfection he's likely to leave is something half the diameter of whatever the abrasive in that compound is, which is god damned tiny. How thick do you think the oil film on those jounrals and bearings is? Thick enough to account for any of that. And at what angle do you think any of these polishing scratches will intersect with the direction of rotation? One or two degrees? Additionally, if you can just look at the journal and see that it has a more smoothly reflective finish than before you did what you did, that's proof positive it's smoother than when you started, so whatever "microscopic burrs" are left would certainly be less than whatever was scattering the light before. In reality what he did to that crankshaft did a lot more to clean its surface than it did to remove any real metal material from it or reshape its journals. If he were building a cosworth formula one race engine, or something else with super tight clearances that will get revved to hell, yes his methods are inadequate. For a street engine that's just getting warmed over, he was fine.
SIR SWERVE agreed, about the only thing done correctly was lubing everything. He states that the pistons are in kept in particular order due to machining differences(of which there shouldn't be any) and also, those bores don't even look honed, let alone machined! The lip is clearly visible
SIR SWERVE you got me. The engine really wasn't in bad shape. We had lost compression in three and four because of a bad head gasket. The head was way warped. The block and crank we're all good. Pistons three and four had some light scoring so I replaced the set. I did light honimg just to clean them up they are all ready 1 mm over. The crank was perfect. It was just a Polish job to make it look good. I numbers the Pistons for ring Gap clearance. Thanks for the comment and stay tuned
You are really going to hate it when you have to take it apart because you never used plastigauge.. it's so important.. plus you should have had the machine shop work on your crankshaft..
If the bearing shells had full oil grooves in them? you should have put them in to the block side and the plain bearings in the caps, interference fitting piston to rods, the rods should have been heated and fitted before they cool, etc.......
How well did the pistons swing after pushing the gudgeon pins in? I did my first set that way and found the piston had deformed and made it incredibly tight. Ended up using the heat method on the rod
@@SchoolofHardNOX would you believe 'supposed to float' afterwards? the piston's pin boss MUST be supported while pressing the pin into place and, for that reason, a proper-fitting piston stand must be used to prevent damage. the pusher piece must also be smaller than the pin bore of the piston. if this doesn't all happen, then something may be ruined. usually- the $75 piston. when its done, the piston should pivot and slide freely on the pin.
Flyguy779 I think so too. I’ve fallen in love and gain an emotional attachment with the 70s datsun’s even though i’ve never have had the chance to get my hands on one.
I would have to say. Yes. This engine in various forms and configuration was used by Datsun or Nissan for many years. The four cylinder is in the Datsun 510. Many trucks had the motor to. Sometime in the 80s they went to the v6 and it just went down hill from there.
They're pretty bullet proof as long as you keep oil and water in em. I had a 78 280z that needed a head rebuilt due to a burnt valve but the bottom end hand north of 267k miles on it and still ran like new. Resurrected the car and drove it for years after it had sat around outside for over a decade. Needed very little maintenance too.
You got me. When we bought the car it had the wrong engine and trans. So now we have a 75 280z bored over. With an 83 280zx 5 speed trans and rear end. Thanks
This needs to come with a disclaimer "For Entertainment Purposes Only" So little usable information and long drawn out sequences of the same step over and over. I skipped forward more than I watched and still feel like I wasted my time.
Авто/Мото
Back in the 70’s and early 80’s I wrenched on those engine. Watching you rebuild that engine brought back some fond memories (especially of the Datsun mechanics that taught me; RIP Steve & Nick). Nobody can appreciate the robust design of these engines. I did not have one engine ever destroy itself even with all the abuse we gave it. If you know you know.
That electro Swing is killing me
Thanks for the video, it would be nice if you had more voice overs with tips explaining what's going on, especially for those playing at home!
Victorylane L thanks for the comment. All try.
Wow, this brings back memories of my first car ('72 240) and rebuilding the engine with my sister's BF back in about '83. I used a mild WebCam aftermarket stick though. I painted it blue just like that too. I polished the cover though.
I love L-Series Nissan Motors they're all Logos, and virtual bulletproof! I built a Special Z24i motor for my 86.5 Hardbody with heavy duty everything! ARP head studs & rod bolts, 280ZX Turbo main bolts, Balanced lower end, High capacity oil pump, H-D distributor drive gear & driveshaft, oil cooler, ported and port matched head, intake, Mild cam, adjustable cam sprocket, headers, custom 2.25" exhaust system...rebuilt stock motor@ 272K and now at 426K with lots of awesome memories...Truck is a bit rusted but still solid and rolling....5 spd making noise and thinking about salvaging truck and keeping the motor....With Sidedraft carburetion I know this engine is pushing 250-260hp!!!!
they have a huge advantage over domestic cast-iron engine blocks- they were all made on state-of-the-art machines. the P3000 L28 turbo head bolts are more than strong enough. the main-bearing cap bolts you want to use in your L-series are the LD28 bolts used in the maxima diesel motor. playing with valve timing on a NAPS-Z motor is a waste of time, as is porting that intake and cylinder head, which by design commands a docile camshaft profile anyway. using twin-choke carbs on there is a huge waste as well. if you were to put a really high-lift cam in that motor- the valves would hit each other! the L-series head and 240Z carbs would make FAR more power. the oil pump from any L or Z-series motor would be fine for street use. playing with bearing clearances in that motor and then using it on the street will do nothing but blow it up.
Which is worse, irritating music or everything done in fast forward?
Nice use of every improper towel that should never be used when building an engine.
You measured ring gap, why not measure bearing crush?
Did i see a bead of RTV being used inside valve cover? Hope it doesnt end up in oil pickup...
Viewer protip: This is not how you polish crankshafts. This is how you reduce your engine's life span. Have it done by a machine shop with the correct equipment to polish the crank with evenly distributed force and in a single direction directly opposite to the direction in which the crank was ground which itself is opposite to the rotation of the bearings around the crank pins. Just because it looks smooth doesn't mean it is. Grinding and even polishing create microscopic burrs that if not laid out in the correct orientation will eat away at your bearing surfaces every time you have metal to metal contact, which is literally every time you start your engine. Spend some money to save a lot.
can buy the equipment. learn how its done. then do it myself?
Aghem anime profile pic your mecanical knowledge is invalid
Thank u young warrior I can finally sleep knowing someone acknowledged it
So how did the old timers get engines to last for decades and decades some over 100+ years old n still running... as a matter of fact my grandfather still has his model t pickup and that engine has been running in 1 piece without any serious engine work since 1954... still purrs like a kitten... 65 years strong on an engine that was rebuilt in 1964 in my grandfather’s backyard at that time..
All of this sounds great, and a machine shop will certainly do a better job getting journals into perfect condition. That said, this microscopic burr shit is just that. This guy is using a soft cloth with some ultrafine polishing compound. The biggest imperfection he's likely to leave is something half the diameter of whatever the abrasive in that compound is, which is god damned tiny. How thick do you think the oil film on those jounrals and bearings is? Thick enough to account for any of that. And at what angle do you think any of these polishing scratches will intersect with the direction of rotation? One or two degrees? Additionally, if you can just look at the journal and see that it has a more smoothly reflective finish than before you did what you did, that's proof positive it's smoother than when you started, so whatever "microscopic burrs" are left would certainly be less than whatever was scattering the light before.
In reality what he did to that crankshaft did a lot more to clean its surface than it did to remove any real metal material from it or reshape its journals. If he were building a cosworth formula one race engine, or something else with super tight clearances that will get revved to hell, yes his methods are inadequate. For a street engine that's just getting warmed over, he was fine.
I have seen a lot of engine rebuilds in my time and I have never seen anybody build a engine the way you have. very strange
SIR SWERVE agreed, about the only thing done correctly was lubing everything. He states that the pistons are in kept in particular order due to machining differences(of which there shouldn't be any) and also, those bores don't even look honed, let alone machined! The lip is clearly visible
SIR SWERVE you got me. The engine really wasn't in bad shape. We had lost compression in three and four because of a bad head gasket. The head was way warped. The block and crank we're all good. Pistons three and four had some light scoring so I replaced the set. I did light honimg just to clean them up they are all ready 1 mm over. The crank was perfect. It was just a Polish job to make it look good. I numbers the Pistons for ring Gap clearance.
Thanks for the comment and stay tuned
@@jimclarke1108 You don't hone pistons, you hone cylinders. The cylinders were already 1mm over.
@@imsgoalie1 I said nothing about honing pistons or anything for that matter, im a mechanic anyway, and retired ))
You are really going to hate it when you have to take it apart because you never used plastigauge.. it's so important.. plus you should have had the machine shop work on your crankshaft..
nonsense- just measure the thing first and use factory parts. if its all standard size- save the plastigage for the racers.
The conclusion is - you can do a general overhaul of the ship marine engine in your garage. You only need to have long strips of sanding material.
Great music.
If the bearing shells had full oil grooves in them? you should have put them in to the block side and the plain bearings in the caps, interference fitting piston to rods, the rods should have been heated and fitted before they cool, etc.......
How well did the pistons swing after pushing the gudgeon pins in? I did my first set that way and found the piston had deformed and made it incredibly tight. Ended up using the heat method on the rod
+1 The piston is supposed to float when pressing pins in. There's special tooling and everything.
@@SchoolofHardNOX would you believe 'supposed to float' afterwards? the piston's pin boss MUST be supported while pressing the pin into place and, for that reason, a proper-fitting piston stand must be used to prevent damage. the pusher piece must also be smaller than the pin bore of the piston. if this doesn't all happen, then something may be ruined. usually- the $75 piston. when its done, the piston should pivot and slide freely on the pin.
It's an overhead cam but not a cross flow head??
The cliff hanger!!!
Why didn't you give to engineer shop to have the crank lapped
The cantina remix was a bit much
what were you doing to the pistons at the secret shop lol
That may be the most annoying music track in the entire universe!
He he
Good job
Please continue this build on youtube =D
Love the Cantina Band remix!
how many hours its teak
Rings positions ?
Can u share torque spect from this engine please
Sanding by hand gasket material. That's a MASSIVE don't.
man the main bearings are simple to install
Don't you have to stagger the rigs so you don't get blow by???
Yes you do and I did. Just forgot to mention it.
I had four seizures watching this
is it just me are are Datsuns having a popularity rise since last year?
Flyguy779 I think so too. I’ve fallen in love and gain an emotional attachment with the 70s datsun’s even though i’ve never have had the chance to get my hands on one.
Most people, including me, got attracted to this car from Wangan Midnight's Devil Z!
For me it's been a lust affair for the past 4 years
My Summer Car
@@antoniodelfino7737 just got my 240z 3 days ago!
Did I miss something, or there was no head gasket ?
sidewaysrussian forgot to video the install
😎👍
That can't be a 240Z block I see the fuel injection openings so it's a 280Z l28E
Love the Mario bro / star was music ☺
These engines any good?
I would have to say. Yes. This engine in various forms and configuration was used by Datsun or Nissan for many years. The four cylinder is in the Datsun 510. Many trucks had the motor to. Sometime in the 80s they went to the v6 and it just went down hill from there.
They're pretty bullet proof as long as you keep oil and water in em. I had a 78 280z that needed a head rebuilt due to a burnt valve but the bottom end hand north of 267k miles on it and still ran like new. Resurrected the car and drove it for years after it had sat around outside for over a decade. Needed very little maintenance too.
If 280 Crank Needed Polished or Turned ,Someone Really Abused the Eng.,Steel Forged Crank.Lol
Did you lose the 2400 valve cover?
You got me. When we bought the car it had the wrong engine and trans. So now we have a 75 280z bored over. With an 83 280zx 5 speed trans and rear end. Thanks
This needs to come with a disclaimer "For Entertainment Purposes Only" So little usable information and long drawn out sequences of the same step over and over. I skipped forward more than I watched and still feel like I wasted my time.
まずは、クランクから（つっこみどこ満載かな）
①そこまでやるなら（ジャーナル磨き）フルカウンターにしない？
②ウェイトのバランス見ないの？
③プラスチゲージ使わないの？（新品のベヤリング組むならなおさら）
④ベアリングの受け側にオイル塗らないの？
シリンダー
①縦に素があるのにラッピングしないの？
②リング2本だけど入れて確認は？
③ピンのフルフロー加工は？
④リングのオイル穴追加は？
⑤ピストン入れる時にシリンダー壁にオイル流布は？
⑥ヘッドにカム組んだまま乗せるとヘッドが歪む状態じゃないのか？（初めて見た）
⑦ヘッドボルトを一気に規定トルク？（規定トルク前に3回位に分けて締めないの？）
⑧オイルストーンは使わない？
最後にたぶん映っていないとこではやられてる思う。
Tutorial: how to destroy the best video on youtube with some bad background music. nevertheless i liked it cause it was just awesome
This video straight-up sucks. The hideous music and presentation make it so. Don’t waste your time viewing it. It had so much potential.
Awful music, rest is just great. Owed 1970 blue Z .
Music is horse crap
Your music choice is terrible
Really!!! I wouldn't waiste my time on that motor.
Glad your not me.
why though? they get decent gas milage, are very cheap to get a busted up one
and well sound fkn amazing with a proper set of carbs.
OH GOD.... THAT ABRASIVE MUSIC HAS TO GO PLEASE!! LIKE PUTTING SAND IN YOUR CYLINDERS...
Hahaha, never would have pegged him with this kinda edm remix. First video