Instead of jacking the car and having to remove the under tray. I got at the bottom hose clip off from the top there was plenty of room (on the petrol version anyway) saved me tons of time, I flushed the top up tank and squzzed the other hoses to remove extra coolant. Securing the bottom hose I refilled and kept squeezing all the hose don't forget the heater cores ones going through the bulkhead. Test drive 25kms all good.
Thanks for vid! Isn't there a drain plug on the bottom of radiator? I know they are limited use and slow draining, but that's not a track car like my MX-5 where I do only hose-method. 400.000km on my 1CDFTV (2.0L) and it's time for timing belt & water pump change, will be replacing the thermostat and coolant same time.
Ok, I spoke with Toyota today. They advised me to drain the d4d engine block first, and then the radiator. If any excessive corrosion eg cloudiness or metal particles observed in the collected old coolant, then upgrade the coolant with premixed 50:50 Super Long Life Pink. If crystal clear, then I should continue using Toyota Long Life Red which is available from Toyota York for £36 for 20 litre dum (concentrated RED). My coolant is RED and has been in the car since 2012 and a 200 ml test sample from radiator is crystal clear, but i will know which to coolant select once I have collected all the old coolant. I hope this helps. POSSIBLE TIP: It is possible to remove the lower pipe (as in your video) and then run the engine for 30 seconds with the pipe disconnected to purge old coolant from engine block itself, instead of draining direct from engine block separately according to my other mechanic. My car originally had PINK coolant but for some strange unexplainable reason RED was added into the radiator instead, but not the engine block, hence the coolant itself is a mixture of PINK & RED which is 'a big NO NO' as different coolants should never be mixed as this compromises the anti corrosion properties. Not too serious a problem, as only a litre or so of PINK remained in the engine block when it was drained in 2012. No need for me to do a de-ionised water flush of the coolant system (considered 'over kill'). Maybe just rinse the radiator in isolation, depending on the health of the coolant retrieved. Hope this helps.
Another good tip for you, with fuel prices rising, is to ensure tyre pressure is at the proper rating eg 35 psi fortnightly, and add a fuel injector cleaner into the fuel tank. My miles per tank increased from 450 miles to 520 miles by adding a product called ‘Advanced Fuel System Cleaner’ available from Toyota Motorline in Hereford, it’s costs £6.50 so add it every 3 months if doing 10k per year and you cannot go wrong with that one. Injector pattern improved massively. Also, never flush your engine oil using engine flush additives. I will soon show you my new youtube video showing how to flush coolant system using de ionised water, using a non spill funnel to release air bubbles and replace with Toyota super long life pink. It’s very time consuming and I do it myself properly as few garages ‘have the time to do things properly’ as I have learned.
As a rule of thumb I always drain the coolant via the bottom hose, it tends to be the lowest part of the coolant system on most engines, to drain as much as possible.
@@amateurtorque6709 nice nice, very good video. Just I was wondering because I found out on the bottom of the radiator there is a drain off valve. So I was wondering if there is an advantage to the other way of doing it.
I can add some insight. My corolla d4d 2.0 litre 2004 has done 131k. My Haynes manual says replace coolant every 30k using Toyota pink pre mixed super long life. The coolant is made in Japan and contains small concentration of phosphates proved to provide superior engine corrosion protection. it’s the best coolant in the world. Other manufacturers 10 yrs ago removed phosphates from their coolants resulting in engines rotting within viz opaque coolant after use. My coolant is crystal clear, even after 30 k which is how it should inside your engine. So next time, use Toyota’s coolant and denso air filter, oil filter, fuel filter and glow plugs..only use denso stuff, again made in Japan. Thank you very much for posting the video, Toyota advised me the same as written under your car bonnet.
My wife has the Toyota Corolla Verso d4d, which I assume is the same engine as the one here. Very informative video. looking at the Verso, the radiator clip is pointing down , like this example, so I am wondering whether it would be easier to access from below, having removed the plastic under shield anyway?
Thanks for the tip, I just purchased a new Asako camera, it will be ideal for future engine videos as a second view, I already have an Asako camera but it only does wide angle views.
Hello. I appreciate your videos. It was helpful. Do u know steps to remove the engine from the car? Mine is same model as yours. Mine has done 450k miles and still strong. Just want to make some changes to keep my car healthy. Do u have suggestions ?
zacky zakkarov hi, sorry I don't know how to remove the engine. 450k miles is a lot, that's amazing! Whatever you are doing keep doing it. Once you get to 500k you should do a RUclips video.
That's a great video and work. It's worth the efforts. I want to ask, how do you clean your dpf? Have you experienced P2002 code engine check light ? What's the probable cause? I hope to get your help on this. Thanks.
zacky zakkarov thank you. My avensis has the 2ADFTV 150 engine and doesn't have a DPF (thankfully). A quick google found the following page showing the symptoms and how to fix this code: www.obd-codes.com/p2002
Hello. Thanks bro. I appreciate this video. Is it possible to remove dpf by oneself? Where is this 5th exhaust injector located? Thanks in anticipation.
Hi great video . I have a 2008 Toyota corrola D4D 2.0 and I found engine oil in the coolant container. I have no idea whats wrong with it. First time giving me a problem
joice kash hi, sorry to hear that. I would join Toyota owners club and put the questions to the experts. www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/forum/50-corolla-club/
The shape of the funnel, I happened to have, was a good fit, when I poured the coolant in I made sure to aim for the centre of the funnel to keep it upright.
Hi Amateur Torque, thanks for the video hope you do more videos . Can I ask you do you know where is the coolant drain plug for the engine block? As I wanted to empty all coolant, so I could do a full flush, and clean with distilled water. But I need to know where the engine drain plug is. I have the Avensis T27 Thank You
Coolissim0 Unl1mited Hi, pleased you found the video useful. T27, very nice. Sorry i don't know where the engine block drain plug is. What I would recommend is mixing some cheap coolant with water and use this to flush out the remnants of the old coolant. Then use a good approved coolant to fill.
Thanks for the answer, it seems a good idea, but I wanted to clear all the fluid or mostly all.Any other Idea? Where is the engine drain plug of your Toyota?
The drainage plug/cock for most recent Toyota engines (including diesel), is on the rear of the block below the exhaust manifold. I have replied to you in the Toyota Avensis Owners forum, where I linked other videos and diagrams. Look for part no. 111415A.
Hei Has anyone a got clue where is location of drain plug on the engine block because i will take out all coolent out. I have same toyota avensis t25 d4d 2008 and have never replaced coolant??? Cheers mates
Thank you for uploading. Out of interest how long does it normally take for the engine to warm up. Mine is about 15 mins so I was wondering if the thermostat was stuck open. I also notice your insulation on the fire wall is resting on your turbo. Mine was too until the mot tester advised me to secure it ASAP.
Hi Davey, thanks for your comments. Mine can take 15 minutes to warm up especially in winter or if I'm behind slow traffic, however if it's summer or if the roads are quiet and I can get my foot down it will only take 10 minutes to warm up. How old is your avensis and how many miles have you done?
Amateur Torque thanks for replying. Sound like the same time as mine. Maybe this is normal or maybe yours is buggered too. Lol. Only had my t180 a year but it’s on 135k now and runs perfect once it warms. Plastic trays are a nightmare to do, sooooooooo many clips n bolts !
ADVIVE NEEDED PLEASE :) My avensis has done 140,000 miles don’t think it’s ever had a coolant change going by the service history. Bought it at 124k about 6 months ago, serviced when I got it. Just did another oil change. Seems to run fairly well, when I fill coolant up to recommend height though the engine seems to burn some off until it gets below that height. Engine runs a bit Smokey if I top it up, no sign of head gasket going though, some coolant residue visible around the underside of the engine around the oil filter. Any ideas anyone ??
Hey! I have the 2.2 Sr180 model, but from what my research has told me they're essentially the exact same engine. I have a problem with smoking too, at random intervals (Not DPF regen) and when using around 60-80% throttle. I found that my problem is likely the EGR cooler, leaking coolant into the exhaust gasses, passing through the EGR and into the cylinders, then passed out of the car. I was very, very slowly losing coolant, no headgasket failure, and no other fluid loss. My recommendation is to check your EGR, the soot should be black and matte/ powdery, mine was hard and shiny, almost piano black in appearance (Due to coolant and heat). This is apparently is a very rare problem, I can't find anything online about it! So it is unlikely to be this, but check your EGR to make sure, if its shiny and black there is coolant in there. Also FYI, I'm currently on hour 9 of disassembling my engine bay to get access to the EGR cooler, so it isn't a simple job at all! So I hope for your sake I'm wrong!
After further research, I believe red is better than pink despite the hype. Toyota York do a good deal on it, needs changing every 3 years or so. Only red coolant is used in expensive 4x4 Toyota vehicles and pink is not sold on this excellent website which you should read in detail every page.....www.roughtrax4x4.com/genuine-toyota-long-life-red-coolant-5-litres-pre-mixed.html In addition speak to toyota taxi drivers who run Toyota’s to 500 k miles for further service advice on your Toyota 🚗
The way you use to change the coolant is not correct. The cap is underneath glued to the radiator on the driver's side. It's a metric 12 white plastic nut and you don't have to remove it to get it out.
Instead of jacking the car and having to remove the under tray.
I got at the bottom hose clip off from the top there was plenty of room (on the petrol version anyway) saved me tons of time, I flushed the top up tank and squzzed the other hoses to remove extra coolant. Securing the bottom hose I refilled and kept squeezing all the hose don't forget the heater cores ones going through the bulkhead. Test drive 25kms all good.
glad you got your anti freeze sorted. when i did mine there was no hand room from the top, invested in some long nose pliers which helped
Thanks for vid! Isn't there a drain plug on the bottom of radiator? I know they are limited use and slow draining, but that's not a track car like my MX-5 where I do only hose-method.
400.000km on my 1CDFTV (2.0L) and it's time for timing belt & water pump change, will be replacing the thermostat and coolant same time.
400k, thats really good. Yes there is a drain plug, I prefer to use the bottom hose method as its generally the most southerly point on the engine.
Ok, I spoke with Toyota today. They advised me to drain the d4d engine block first, and then the radiator. If any excessive corrosion eg cloudiness or metal particles observed in the collected old coolant, then upgrade the coolant with premixed 50:50 Super Long Life Pink. If crystal clear, then I should continue using Toyota Long Life Red which is available from Toyota York for £36 for 20 litre dum (concentrated RED). My coolant is RED and has been in the car since 2012 and a 200 ml test sample from radiator is crystal clear, but i will know which to coolant select once I have collected all the old coolant. I hope this helps. POSSIBLE TIP: It is possible to remove the lower pipe (as in your video) and then run the engine for 30 seconds with the pipe disconnected to purge old coolant from engine block itself, instead of draining direct from engine block separately according to my other mechanic. My car originally had PINK coolant but for some strange unexplainable reason RED was added into the radiator instead, but not the engine block, hence the coolant itself is a mixture of PINK & RED which is 'a big NO NO' as different coolants should never be mixed as this compromises the anti corrosion properties. Not too serious a problem, as only a litre or so of PINK remained in the engine block when it was drained in 2012. No need for me to do a de-ionised water flush of the coolant system (considered 'over kill'). Maybe just rinse the radiator in isolation, depending on the health of the coolant retrieved. Hope this helps.
Another good tip for you, with fuel prices rising, is to ensure tyre pressure is at the proper rating eg 35 psi fortnightly, and add a fuel injector cleaner into the fuel tank. My miles per tank increased from 450 miles to 520 miles by adding a product called ‘Advanced Fuel System Cleaner’ available from Toyota Motorline in Hereford, it’s costs £6.50 so add it every 3 months if doing 10k per year and you cannot go wrong with that one. Injector pattern improved massively. Also, never flush your engine oil using engine flush additives. I will soon show you my new youtube video showing how to flush coolant system using de ionised water, using a non spill funnel to release air bubbles and replace with Toyota super long life pink. It’s very time consuming and I do it myself properly as few garages ‘have the time to do things properly’ as I have learned.
Thanks for the tip Jason, I will look into the injector cleaner. Can you send me the link once you upload your video please.
I am curious - why remove the hose clamp instead of drain out the fuid with the plastic drain screw on the bottom left side?
As a rule of thumb I always drain the coolant via the bottom hose, it tends to be the lowest part of the coolant system on most engines, to drain as much as possible.
@@amateurtorque6709 nice nice, very good video. Just I was wondering because I found out on the bottom of the radiator there is a drain off valve. So I was wondering if there is an advantage to the other way of doing it.
Thanks mate alot of your videos where helpful for my d4d corolla ! 🙏👍
Thanks David, pleased it helped.
Thanks mate! Your video helped me with a Corolla T-Spirit D4D
That's what I like to hear Job, pleas it was useful.
I can add some insight. My corolla d4d 2.0 litre 2004 has done 131k. My Haynes manual says replace coolant every 30k using Toyota pink pre mixed super long life. The coolant is made in Japan and contains small concentration of phosphates proved to provide superior engine corrosion protection. it’s the best coolant in the world. Other manufacturers 10 yrs ago removed phosphates from their coolants resulting in engines rotting within viz opaque coolant after use. My coolant is crystal clear, even after 30 k which is how it should inside your engine. So next time, use Toyota’s coolant and denso air filter, oil filter, fuel filter and glow plugs..only use denso stuff, again made in Japan. Thank you very much for posting the video, Toyota advised me the same as written under your car bonnet.
Thanks for your advice Jason. Pleased you have a Haynes manual for your Corolla, they don't do a manual for the Avensis.
just a shame that last time I bought Denso spark plugs... they were made in Indonesia!
U have a nice taste of cars l have same always all l need . No drama no problems
My wife has the Toyota Corolla Verso d4d, which I assume is the same engine as the one here.
Very informative video. looking at the Verso, the radiator clip is pointing down , like this example, so I am wondering whether it would be easier to access from below, having removed the plastic under shield anyway?
missing better camera Quality.... good video
new SUB
Thanks for the tip, I just purchased a new Asako camera, it will be ideal for future engine videos as a second view, I already have an Asako camera but it only does wide angle views.
@@amateurtorque6709 Nice, be looking forward to that :)
Hello. I appreciate your videos. It was helpful. Do u know steps to remove the engine from the car? Mine is same model as yours. Mine has done
450k miles and still strong. Just want to make some changes to keep my car healthy. Do u have suggestions ?
zacky zakkarov hi, sorry I don't know how to remove the engine. 450k miles is a lot, that's amazing! Whatever you are doing keep doing it. Once you get to 500k you should do a RUclips video.
That's a great video and work. It's worth the efforts. I want to ask, how do you clean your dpf? Have you experienced P2002 code engine check light ? What's the probable cause? I hope to get your help on this. Thanks.
zacky zakkarov thank you. My avensis has the 2ADFTV 150 engine and doesn't have a DPF (thankfully). A quick google found the following page showing the symptoms and how to fix this code:
www.obd-codes.com/p2002
i thought you can ust pour the prepared anti freeze in the plastic section?? im clueless about cars. i have the t4 D 4d
Hello. Thanks bro. I appreciate this video. Is it possible to remove dpf by oneself? Where is this 5th exhaust injector located? Thanks in anticipation.
Hi great video .
I have a 2008 Toyota corrola D4D 2.0 and I found engine oil in the coolant container. I have no idea whats wrong with it. First time giving me a problem
joice kash hi, sorry to hear that. I would join Toyota owners club and put the questions to the experts. www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/forum/50-corolla-club/
head gasket failure
At 7:50 how do you make the funnel stay up like that and not fall down?
The shape of the funnel, I happened to have, was a good fit, when I poured the coolant in I made sure to aim for the centre of the funnel to keep it upright.
@@amateurtorque6709 I was just making a little joke here because suddenly the video was upsdie down :)
@@SoulFoodEqualsMusic 😄I hadn't noticed that before.
Hi Amateur Torque, thanks for the video hope you do more videos . Can I ask you do you know where is the coolant drain plug for the engine block? As I wanted to empty all coolant, so I could do a full flush, and clean with distilled water. But I need to know where the engine drain plug is. I have the Avensis T27 Thank You
Coolissim0 Unl1mited Hi, pleased you found the video useful. T27, very nice. Sorry i don't know where the engine block drain plug is. What I would recommend is mixing some cheap coolant with water and use this to flush out the remnants of the old coolant. Then use a good approved coolant to fill.
Thanks for the answer, it seems a good idea, but I wanted to clear all the fluid or mostly all.Any other Idea? Where is the engine drain plug of your Toyota?
Coolissim0 Unl1mited I haven't looked for it, however I will look for it next time I'm under the car.
The drainage plug/cock for most recent Toyota engines (including diesel), is on the rear of the block below the exhaust manifold. I have replied to you in the Toyota Avensis Owners forum, where I linked other videos and diagrams. Look for part no. 111415A.
konradc12 thank you Konradc12 you are the best
Thanks for the video. It helped me greatly.
pleased you found it useful
Hei
Has anyone a got clue where is location of drain plug on the engine block because i will take out all coolent out.
I have same toyota avensis t25 d4d 2008 and have never replaced coolant???
Cheers mates
Any advice on changing starter motor
No, sorry, not had to replace this yet.
Changed mine removed rad fans and intercooler pipe watch small pipe at bottom of rad fans x
You need to change water pomp also doing this procedure
Hi, have you had issues with your water pump?
Thank you for uploading. Out of interest how long does it normally take for the engine to warm up. Mine is about 15 mins so I was wondering if the thermostat was stuck open.
I also notice your insulation on the fire wall is resting on your turbo. Mine was too until the mot tester advised me to secure it ASAP.
Hi Davey, thanks for your comments. Mine can take 15 minutes to warm up especially in winter or if I'm behind slow traffic, however if it's summer or if the roads are quiet and I can get my foot down it will only take 10 minutes to warm up. How old is your avensis and how many miles have you done?
Amateur Torque thanks for replying. Sound like the same time as mine. Maybe this is normal or maybe yours is buggered too. Lol. Only had my t180 a year but it’s on 135k now and runs perfect once it warms.
Plastic trays are a nightmare to do, sooooooooo many clips n bolts !
Brill video by the way x
Thanks Ian
I wondered where my green seed trays got to! I bought more.
But they are perfect for catching coolant, I'll give you it back once I've done an oil change.
Just as well the coolant is orange & not green.
ADVIVE NEEDED PLEASE :)
My avensis has done 140,000 miles don’t think it’s ever had a coolant change going by the service history. Bought it at 124k about 6 months ago, serviced when I got it. Just did another oil change. Seems to run fairly well, when I fill coolant up to recommend height though the engine seems to burn some off until it gets below that height. Engine runs a bit Smokey if I top it up, no sign of head gasket going though, some coolant residue visible around the underside of the engine around the oil filter.
Any ideas anyone ??
Hey! I have the 2.2 Sr180 model, but from what my research has told me they're essentially the exact same engine. I have a problem with smoking too, at random intervals (Not DPF regen) and when using around 60-80% throttle. I found that my problem is likely the EGR cooler, leaking coolant into the exhaust gasses, passing through the EGR and into the cylinders, then passed out of the car. I was very, very slowly losing coolant, no headgasket failure, and no other fluid loss.
My recommendation is to check your EGR, the soot should be black and matte/ powdery, mine was hard and shiny, almost piano black in appearance (Due to coolant and heat). This is apparently is a very rare problem, I can't find anything online about it!
So it is unlikely to be this, but check your EGR to make sure, if its shiny and black there is coolant in there. Also FYI, I'm currently on hour 9 of disassembling my engine bay to get access to the EGR cooler, so it isn't a simple job at all! So I hope for your sake I'm wrong!
Thanks for the movie mine is the same modem as yours
ousmane danfakh hi, hope you find it useful.
After further research, I believe red is better than pink despite the hype. Toyota York do a good deal on it, needs changing every 3 years or so. Only red coolant is used in expensive 4x4 Toyota vehicles and pink is not sold on this excellent website which you should read in detail every page.....www.roughtrax4x4.com/genuine-toyota-long-life-red-coolant-5-litres-pre-mixed.html
In addition speak to toyota taxi drivers who run Toyota’s to 500 k miles for further service advice on your Toyota 🚗
The way you use to change the coolant is not correct. The cap is underneath glued to the radiator on the driver's side. It's a metric 12 white plastic nut and you don't have to remove it to get it out.
Thanks Fransisco, ill look out for that white nut when I'm under the car next.
220k miles avensis 2.2 d4d t3
coolant detailed research.....www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-camry-5th-6th-gen-2002-2006-2007-2011-2nd-gen-solara-2004-2008/407311-diy-2002-camry-thermostat-inspection-coolant-flush-gen5.html
260k
Ain't neccessary is a asian no problem at all
Lexus the best from asia l guess