I normally don’t write a lot of comments, but after watching this video I was compelled to leave a comment. This video is probably one of the best I have ever seen and most importantly one of the most informative. I develop training videos for a large corporation, And your 10 minute video is spot on!
Wow, thanks. When we saw the comment notification come in it just said “I normally don’t write a lot of comments, but after” and I was braced for a lashing. So your words were great to hear! Thanks for the support!
This channel is real person that share the knowledge we really need on very important subjects that nobody talk about, And they are very important. Q: in 5:00min you said it means your lithium batteries charging truck batteries? You really meant truck batteries charging camper batteries right? I really didn’t understand it.
We've watched 100s of videos on RUclips about rv/travel trailer and we have to admit this was one of the most informative/unique. Wouldn't even have thought about this and while we are in a travel trailer, it is still great information to have. First class video. Kudos!
Thanks for the great comment! Same applies for travel trailers and 5ers. However, I have no idea how your brand of truck handles it. I’m going to guess they have it shut off when the ignition shuts off. I didn’t see the topic online either. Just some how to install videos. But, I was getting emails and seeing people posting about it in the forums and wanted to explain it. I appreciate the support!
I Thanks for this video. I know its old,but I am just getting into TC's, and starting to camp in my older, fully remodeled, camper. On a recent shakedown, first trip, I realized my old power converter is not working well, and that I got a better charge for my camper house battery, while hooked to truck connection and driving. Saw this video and went out and unhooked my connector while I'm parked for a little while. Thanks again, your videos are well done and informative.
I have a 2003 Chevy 2500 HD with the Duramax. Fortunately when I bought it (2009) a battery isolator was already on it. An old truck camper came with it (long story). Killed the camper battery the first night running the furnace. Late October in Cheyanne WY. Went to start the built in generator and nothing. Started the truck and was able to start the generator. Thank God!
I have a 2017 RAM 3500 diesel and a 2016 Arctic Fox 856 TC. For years, the AF had gel batteries, and I found I needed no isolation between the truck and the camper as far as 12V service was concerned. While driving, my Victron monitor showed 2-4A of camper battery charging from the truck, but no current flow either direction when the truck was turned off. I thus assumed (incorrectly) that my RAM automatically disconnects the 12V source from the 7-pin connection when the truck is off. Fast forward to this year, when I converted the camper fully to LiFePO batteries, converter, and DC-DC converter between the truck and the camper. In one night, with the truck turned off and the camper hooked via AC to shore power, the truck batteries were BOTH drained! It turns out that the DC-DC Victron converter between the two systems somehow initiates current draw from the truck, even when the truck is off. The simple solution is to use the Bluetooth interface to disable the DC-DC converter when the truck is off. I can be off all the time actually, but on long drives in low light (no solar help) I like to have the 12V from the truck up-converted to 13.8V to charge the Li batteries on the road. I just have to remember to disable it when reaching my destination, or I’ll need AAA to jump start my truck!
I have 22 ram 3500 and AF992, I am in SoCal and my camper batteries always full, it means they will help my truck batteries when it is parked for 5 days of week? I use my truck only for camper in weekends and 5 days parked with camper on it connected.
We have a RAM and a Cirrus. Our solution to the issue was to just remove the fuse in the truck that goes to the charging wire for the connector that charges the camper. Solar on the roof keeps the camper batteries charged. If we ever needed to use the truck to charge the camper batteries all we would need to do is put the fuse back in. Nothing to remember and the safety lights on the rear of the camper always work.
Killed my truck battery twice, slow learner I guess. The connection between my Arctic Fox and GMC is easy to get to so now it’s part of my setup/breakdown routine unplug and plug. Important subject for us truck campers, thanks for the video.
I've had many people tell me about their misfortunes related to this. It was time to talk about it. We are always connected to the truck, so it was a problem I had to solve in the first couple months on the road. I'm glad you have it all ironed out now!
I’ve always unplugged that cable when not driving but there is that potential to forget to plug it back in. I usually do a lighting check before driving so that helps. I’ve heard of dc to dc chargers which I need more info about. It would be nice to solve this issue and forget about it. Great video!
Thanks for watching. It seems like many people just unplug, which was an option for me too. However, my 7pin plug is a pain to get to and I knew I’d forget. Once I moved to lithium, it became a necessity. But for the majority of people, it’s not a big deal.
Thank you. I’ve learned a lot and wanted to share this little tidbit. I keep hearing of people having troubles with drawing down their truck batteries.
I heard you say that you're running lithium in the camper. You're obviously still using the 7 pin to charge the batteries. Do you have any issues? I've been told it's hard on the alternator, and I should use an dc/dc charger instead.
The 7 pin is only 10 gauge wire and the long length and small gauge really limits current. The most charging I’ve gotten from it when I was on lead acid was about 7-10 amps. I also ran (I’ve sold this camper) dual 40 Amp DC-DC charger’s. The smart alternators run at a lower voltage than what can effectively charge lithium. Also, when you factor in voltage drop from the front of the truck, all the way to the back, then through the 7-Pin harness all running across 10 gauge wire, the voltage isn’t enough to push much current. What people are talking about being hard on the alternator with lithium is when you have a large gauge wire attached and no regulation. Either way, always run a DC-DC charger. The new Victron XS 50 amp is my choice.
Yes. Diesel with dual dead batteries! We always carry a battery charge (loan out more often!) to plug into generator to boost charge truck. Have experienced weak (dead cell draining) battery & used solar panel connected while hosting until we could replace them both. Always must do the pair. We also carry two sets of jumper cables to assist others which helps. You can also dip clamps into bowl of water to increase connectivity for jump starts. Enjoy your ideas & New Englander accents. 🙂
It sounds like you need to isolate your systems. No fun having dead batteries, and it gets expensive! Accents? We don’t have any accents 😂 Where are you from?
Good vid! I had one of those old style can looking disconnects. It arc fused closed and killed my truck battery. Replaced it with a like unit, but always unplug now as I don't trust it. That was the old truck though. I'll have to see what the new truck and new TC are set up like.
I know that some trucks and TCs have a relay built in, many do not. There were too many variations to cover them all, I just wanted to put it out there. I chose the Victron because my research lead me to believe that they are very reliable. I didn’t want to find out that a cheap version failed on me. My TC plug is rather hard to access and I’m too lazy to go through the process. Automatic and reliable is my choice. I’m sure this will be something that gets resolved with enough customer complaints, however, I doubt ram willl ever change it. It seems to be their hard and fast policy.
Left my fridge on DC (forgot to leave my propane on) the first year I got my 820, the truck battery went d'eau had to have it boosted, that's when I learned that my Sylverado 7 pins was always on lol. Thanks for the tip.
Yup I've done that one and I have two large truck batteries and 3 camper , good thing I was home. I now unplug my 7 pin plug once I shut the truck off.
Starlink works well. There has been some talk about reduced speeds in some areas because of rapid growth. However, it works where nothing else will. So there are trade offs. Over time, I’m sure capacity will increase and alleviate some of the congestion. We have had great luck with it, but speeds vary by location. There are several Facebook groups about Starlink and people post about their problems and how it performs in various areas.
Great. Thanks for your reply. Truck camping. Man I remember that. On Long Island I used my truck camper on the Beach surf casting for stripers and Bluefish. Great memories. Now being in Florida I'm using a Coachman Orion 20CB Ford Transit. Good luck with all your doing. Be safe. Rubber side down always. That's motorcycle lingo. Ha ha but it works for you being off road. Warren
Hey Scott really enjoying your videos 👍😊 very informative and helpful. About 2 weeks ago I traded in my 2017 RAM 1500 Laramie Crew Cab in for a 2017 RAM 3500 diesel Laramie Mega Cab dully. Looked for months. My 3500 has 2 batteries. A couple days ago I go outside to check fluids n stuff in truck and it will not start. Battery voltage 10.4vdc so I just start it after charging for 20 minutes n it cranks fine n I see 13.8 vdc. Next day dead batteries again. The odd thing is the date on both batteries is 2013. 8 year old batteries on a 4 year truck??? Have you ever heard of RAM installing 4 year old batteries in a new truck? This is my 3 RAM truck but this is odd. Thanks Tom from Birmingham Alabama
It's very unlikely that RAM did that. Possibly someone replaced them before you bought the truck? Maybe they needed batteries and got a good deal on a used set? What brand battery were they? Also, did they have the felt covering on them?
@@Stonyboot yes both are identical batteries with black dusty felt lining wrapping top n sides of them. I pulled the top felt up to better see battery nameplate. It says basically Chrysler LL in Michigan and batteries from Johnson Controls Battery Group in Michigan…..some ratings like CCR ….. and a date of 2013 on the right side of nameplate. No month shown. I can’t believe these 2 batteries are 8 years old either but no other date this shown. I’ll jump it off n go get replaced. I’ll get a better view of batteries once they are out. I do think they are original n 4-5 years old but not 8 years old. I was hoping your 2018 RAM battery would have similar date 2013 nameplate mark and this means something different I think. Thanks 😊
Mine says 004429/2013. But that is a registry number, whatever that means. I can’t find a date on mine either. Chances are the date is located lower down. I think you’re right, they are not from 2013. That’s a different number.
@@Stonyboot yes that’s it 🙌 mine shows same number 👍 ok this is not a battery date but registration number. thanks for the help. Thanks for sharing and safe travels 😎🎥🎶🐾🎬🏔🐿
We have closed down that store. The only shirts we have for sale now are the ones at the bottom of the video. You should see our Merch shelf below or beside the video.
I have about 5000 lbs if payload. I’m already over my GVW. Get the 5500, Jared Sund with Stable Camper is a wealth of knowledge on this topic. We did a video that shows his flat bed setup with his camper.
My payload is 5079lb exact, I think you might be better off by 5500 for that beast. But I am sure so many people will carry that with 3500 as well but they pushing it 😅
I have a 2001 dodge 2500 and just used a ford cellenoid works good after all these years but having problems with the micky mouse work some one else did need a camper wiring diagram and have a hard time finding any thing cause it is not a stock set up "awsome video" even an old fart like me can follow it thanks for posting
I’m not sure I follow your comment. A DC-DC charger is a different topic from this. The amperage draw from the 7 pin is minimal, the most I ever see is about 5-7 amps, which won’t really have an effect on the alternator. Are you referring to our other video about the dual DC-DC chargers?
@@Stonyboot went to the victron website didn't see anything that would regulate the amperage there must be a circuit in your truck that's controlling the amount of amps going to your lithium Bank 🤔
It’s limited by the length and gauge of wire. With the voltage drop and small gauge wire, not much power can flow through it. It’s like having a long garden hose. Flow rate becomes greatly restricted. I added dual 40 amp DC-DC chargers so I can charge my bank at 80 amps from the trucks dual 220 amp alternators. I left the 7-pin connected simply for that extra 5-7 amps that I get while driving. Every little bit helps :$
i don't have a truck camper yet. but my understanding is when boondocking, unplug from the truck, let the camper batteries run the camper, not additional power from the truck? that's why i hear people say their solar power actually keeps truck batteries and camper batteries up to capacity?
That is a common practice. Using a relay disconnects the truck automatically, which is essentially the same as unplugging it. There are several issues with drawing power from the truck, mainly, the trucks batteries are no deep cycle batteries, drawing them down will damage them. The biggest risk is leaving something on over night and accidentally draining the truck and camper batteries. Solar will certainly keep both batteries charged, but you also have to consider charge voltage and the types of chemistries involved. That topic is rather complex and I might go through it in a future video. The overall point is that waking up to a dead truck is no fun!
Just be aware of connection! One can save your ass when you "forget".(And it's part of the design) I can see separation of Li to Agm, but if your Agm, just pay attention. or install a switch or a diode...
I'm not sure what you mean by "be aware of connection". The video is about installing a voltage sensing relay to do the remembering for you. I'm not a fan of diodes due to voltage drop and price. For a low amperage connection like this, a regular smart relay works perfectly!
I killed both of my batteries one time and the reason why was I had a three-way refrigerator and I was parked I had it on automatic and my propane ran out and I wasn't hooked up to shore power so it switched automatically to DC and Bam came out to a dead truck battery😢
@@Stonyboot Just no receptacle power from the 2 o'clock pin. All lights still work and having a DC to DC charger eliminated the need for it. I would look into it more if I was pulling a trailer, then you may need it for brakes or something.
I have a palomino ss-550 with a group 29 deep cycle battery in it. I installed my own battery monitor but noticed even After it was plugged into shore power all night last night that I only was at about 73% battery. And another day if I got it down to 60% or so at night and then drove for 5 hours the next day it would still only be about mid 60% range on charge. Any idea why this might be?? We are on a 5 week trip and drive a lot but still have yet to get the battery topped up. Thanks for any help! Great video! If you want to see our rig you can check out my channel if that provides any insight!
With a battery monitor, you need to get the battery 100% charged, then reset the monitor at 100%. You may be having an issue with it just being not calibrated correctly. What model/brand of monitor do you have? As for driving and charging through the 7 pin connector. With the length of cable going from the alternator, to the 7 pin, back up through the camper to your batteries, there is a lot of voltage loss. Without sufficient voltage, batteries will not charge. If you have a relatively modern truck, its going to have a smart alternator, which regulates the output to recharge your starting battery and then reduces the output voltage to save fuel. This results in a normal 14-14.6 volt output for 5-15 minutes after you start your truck, and then it settles back down to a float charge in the low 13v range. This reduction of voltage, added to the voltage loss going to the camper batteries and you end up with little or no charging. Also, the size of wire going from the truck to the camper is so small that very little current can flow, especially given the distance. My best suggestion is either more solar or a DC-DC charger from the truck to the camper. I did a video about our DC-DC charging setup, but its a little overkill for what you are doing, however, it might give you some ideas. Lastly, if your battery isn't charing while plugged in, it could be a problem with the converter or inverter/charger. Your best bet is to look up what voltage is considered 100% charged on your specific battery and test it with a multi-meter. Let me know if this makes sense.
@@Stonyboot Hey man that's super helpful thank you. This is the monitor I got. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RDB6DXZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I'm looking at it right now while it's plugged into shore power and its showing 13.5 volts at 96% with the Battery switch connected (which allows use of DC power when not plugged in) and then when I disconnect the switch it shows 99% at 13.6 volts. Does that sound right to you?? Thanks for all of your input I really appreciate it as we are on the road and I'm able to do a DC to DC set up or something similar at the moment. Thanks man!
That makes sense now. Batteries are tricky things to monitor. When there is a load, the voltage will sag, look up “voltage sag”. Once the load is disconnected, the battery will rebound or recover some voltage. Voltage isn’t a good way to monitor battery capacity. Your best bet is look for a battery coulomb meter. These devices actually count the electrons in and out regardless of voltage. This lets you keep tabs on how many Amp Hours you have used and what you have left. We use a Renogy version and it’s been great. There are lots of option out there, but if you want a better understanding of actual power usage, a battery coulomb meter is the way to go. This is what we use. amzn.to/3ka0bq7
K C - What type of batteries are in rv & charger? Lithium need different (adjustable) controller to charge them as the normal lead-acid type charger doesn't do the job.
Silly that such a simple part is not part of the camper at time of purchase. Given all the things on a camper for the convenience of use, hopefully manufacturers will adopt.
Some truck manufacturers have it setup to turn on and off with the ignition. I don’t know exactly what their reasons are, but some fords and Chevy trucks include that feature, some don’t. If RV manufacturers included it, that would ensure that people don’t have the problem, but I don’t think enough people request it.
Why didn’t you just tell them to unplug it when they stop to camp. I have a truck camper and I’ve always known when you stop to camp you unplug it. The reason why it is plugged in when you are traveling is for your running lights and charge up your battery. Folks all you have to do is just unplug it when you get to the campsite and you’re ready to camp. Very simple. And it takes a second to do it. He’s making a mountain out of a mole hill.
No No No😱 never disconnect your camper from your Truck you will forget and you will be in an accident!!! Your driving lights and turn signals will not work when disconnect. Better a dead battery then a dead accident. Please remove this post ASAP......
I’m gonna have to disagree with you here. The camper is disconnected when it’s removed, and people should have a process for loading and unloading. Same with this, if someone doesn’t want to go the recommended route of installing an automatic relay, they have the option to unplug while they are camping. People with RVs need to secure everything before departing and as well as check tires, tie downs and ensure that all the panels and hatches are secured. The majority of people have a written check list or a mental checklist for these processes, they can simply add this item to their list. In the video, I explained that I didn’t want to go that route because I knew that I’d forget. After discussing this topic in groups and forums, I found that most people unplug the camper snd plug it back in as part of their departure ritual. Removing the video would have no educational value and would allow for constructive discourse in the comments. The camper should always be plugged in while in motion, it’s up to the discretion of the driver to determine how they want to handle the battery drain issue.
That is an option. But changing trucks over a $40 relay isn’t on my list of priorities. I do love the Super Duty Fords though! The old 7.3 diesels were and are amazing 🤩
I normally don’t write a lot of comments, but after watching this video I was compelled to leave a comment. This video is probably one of the best I have ever seen and most importantly one of the most informative. I develop training videos for a large corporation, And your 10 minute video is spot on!
Wow, thanks. When we saw the comment notification come in it just said “I normally don’t write a lot of comments, but after” and I was braced for a lashing. So your words were great to hear! Thanks for the support!
This channel is real person that share the knowledge we really need on very important subjects that nobody talk about, And they are very important.
Q: in 5:00min you said it means your lithium batteries charging truck batteries? You really meant truck batteries charging camper batteries right?
I really didn’t understand it.
We've watched 100s of videos on RUclips about rv/travel trailer and we have to admit this was one of the most informative/unique. Wouldn't even have thought about this and while we are in a travel trailer, it is still great information to have. First class video. Kudos!
Thanks for the great comment! Same applies for travel trailers and 5ers. However, I have no idea how your brand of truck handles it. I’m going to guess they have it shut off when the ignition shuts off. I didn’t see the topic online either. Just some how to install videos. But, I was getting emails and seeing people posting about it in the forums and wanted to explain it.
I appreciate the support!
I
Thanks for this video. I know its old,but I am just getting into TC's, and starting to camp in my older, fully remodeled, camper. On a recent shakedown, first trip, I realized my old power converter is not working well, and that I got a better charge for my camper house battery, while hooked to truck connection and driving. Saw this video and went out and unhooked my connector while I'm parked for a little while. Thanks again, your videos are well done and informative.
Thank you, I’m glad it was helpful. I got so many questions and complaints about this issue that I knew it would be a good topic!
I have a 2003 Chevy 2500 HD with the Duramax. Fortunately when I bought it (2009) a battery isolator was already on it. An old truck camper came with it (long story). Killed the camper battery the first night running the furnace. Late October in Cheyanne WY. Went to start the built in generator and nothing. Started the truck and was able to start the generator. Thank God!
I have a 2017 RAM 3500 diesel and a 2016 Arctic Fox 856 TC. For years, the AF had gel batteries, and I found I needed no isolation between the truck and the camper as far as 12V service was concerned. While driving, my Victron monitor showed 2-4A of camper battery charging from the truck, but no current flow either direction when the truck was turned off. I thus assumed (incorrectly) that my RAM automatically disconnects the 12V source from the 7-pin connection when the truck is off. Fast forward to this year, when I converted the camper fully to LiFePO batteries, converter, and DC-DC converter between the truck and the camper. In one night, with the truck turned off and the camper hooked via AC to shore power, the truck batteries were BOTH drained! It turns out that the DC-DC Victron converter between the two systems somehow initiates current draw from the truck, even when the truck is off. The simple solution is to use the Bluetooth interface to disable the DC-DC converter when the truck is off. I can be off all the time actually, but on long drives in low light (no solar help) I like to have the 12V from the truck up-converted to 13.8V to charge the Li batteries on the road. I just have to remember to disable it when reaching my destination, or I’ll need AAA to jump start my truck!
I have 22 ram 3500 and AF992, I am in SoCal and my camper batteries always full, it means they will help my truck batteries when it is parked for 5 days of week? I use my truck only for camper in weekends and 5 days parked with camper on it connected.
Scott, you're a force in our RV video world!
Editing and graphics get better and better with every release.
Gold standard!
Thanks for noticing, it’s crazy how much time that stuff takes. I’m leaning a little bit each week and it adds up! I’m glad to hear it shows 👍
We second that!!!
Thanks for the love ❤️
THANK YOU young man for saving granny here from a dead battery plus how to solve the issue!
Thank you for watching! That was my goal! No need to kill your truck batteries, not to mention how bad it is for their longevity.
We have a RAM and a Cirrus. Our solution to the issue was to just remove the fuse in the truck that goes to the charging wire for the connector that charges the camper. Solar on the roof keeps the camper batteries charged. If we ever needed to use the truck to charge the camper batteries all we would need to do is put the fuse back in. Nothing to remember and the safety lights on the rear of the camper always work.
That is certainly an option. It also depends on the vehicle, so many variations out there.
Killed my truck battery twice, slow learner I guess. The connection between my Arctic Fox and GMC is easy to get to so now it’s part of my setup/breakdown routine unplug and plug. Important subject for us truck campers, thanks for the video.
I’m glad you figured out a process! It’s no fun dealing with a dead battery ok the road!
I've had many people tell me about their misfortunes related to this. It was time to talk about it. We are always connected to the truck, so it was a problem I had to solve in the first couple months on the road. I'm glad you have it all ironed out now!
I’ve always unplugged that cable when not driving but there is that potential to forget to plug it back in. I usually do a lighting check before driving so that helps. I’ve heard of dc to dc chargers which I need more info about. It would be nice to solve this issue and forget about it. Great video!
Thanks for watching. It seems like many people just unplug, which was an option for me too. However, my 7pin plug is a pain to get to and I knew I’d forget. Once I moved to lithium, it became a necessity. But for the majority of people, it’s not a big deal.
Thank you for this video. You answered a very big mystery problem I have.
Thanks, glad this video was helpful!
You’ve clearly done your homework. Very informative and well thought out video.
Thank you. I’ve learned a lot and wanted to share this little tidbit. I keep hearing of people having troubles with drawing down their truck batteries.
I heard you say that you're running lithium in the camper. You're obviously still using the 7 pin to charge the batteries. Do you have any issues? I've been told it's hard on the alternator, and I should use an dc/dc charger instead.
The 7 pin is only 10 gauge wire and the long length and small gauge really limits current. The most charging I’ve gotten from it when I was on lead acid was about 7-10 amps.
I also ran (I’ve sold this camper) dual 40
Amp DC-DC charger’s. The smart alternators run at a lower voltage than what can effectively charge lithium. Also, when you factor in voltage drop from the front of the truck, all the way to the back, then through the 7-Pin harness all running across 10 gauge wire, the voltage isn’t enough to push much current.
What people are talking about being hard on the alternator with lithium is when you have a large gauge wire attached and no regulation. Either way, always run a DC-DC charger. The new Victron XS 50 amp is my choice.
Excellent video, Scott!
Thanks for watching!
Yes. Diesel with dual dead batteries! We always carry a battery charge (loan out more often!) to plug into generator to boost charge truck. Have experienced weak (dead cell draining) battery & used solar panel connected while hosting until we could replace them both. Always must do the pair. We also carry two sets of jumper cables to assist others which helps. You can also dip clamps into bowl of water to increase connectivity for jump starts. Enjoy your ideas & New Englander accents. 🙂
It sounds like you need to isolate your systems. No fun having dead batteries, and it gets expensive!
Accents? We don’t have any accents 😂
Where are you from?
You asked about experience with dead battery..... they seem to only last 3-4 yrs.
From So. FL. no accent here.
That’s good to know. I’m curious how long our batteries will last, time will tell 🙃
Well Done, I have remover the fuse going to the battery + 7 way plug.
Excellent! Do you have sufficient charging on your camper?
@@Stonyboot It seems to be with good sun, I get a full charge during the day.
Oh that’s great!!!
My Lance has a shutoff under the seat near battery which disconnects the power but I like the idea of a combiner would be easier to hook up
Good vid! I had one of those old style can looking disconnects. It arc fused closed and killed my truck battery. Replaced it with a like unit, but always unplug now as I don't trust it. That was the old truck though. I'll have to see what the new truck and new TC are set up like.
I know that some trucks and TCs have a relay built in, many do not. There were too many variations to cover them all, I just wanted to put it out there. I chose the Victron because my research lead me to believe that they are very reliable. I didn’t want to find out that a cheap version failed on me. My TC plug is rather hard to access and I’m too lazy to go through the process. Automatic and reliable is my choice. I’m sure this will be something that gets resolved with enough customer complaints, however, I doubt ram willl ever change it. It seems to be their hard and fast policy.
Excellent Video !!!! I learned something, I could use it on my car and Camper .... Cheers and GOD BLESS.
I’m happy to hear that! It’s such a common problem.
Awesome information brother 👍🏾✌🏾
😎Thanks for watching!
Left my fridge on DC (forgot to leave my propane on) the first year I got my 820, the truck battery went d'eau had to have it boosted, that's when I learned that my Sylverado 7 pins was always on lol. Thanks for the tip.
It happens all to often. I’m glad you were able to get a boost!
Great Video. Yes I have killed the Truck Batteries. Thanks for your informative Video 👍
Many have, I almost did, but the truck started…. Slowly. Simply relays saves a lot of grief. Thanks for watching :)
Excellent video. Thank you
Yup I've done that one and I have two large truck batteries and 3 camper , good thing I was home. I now unplug my 7 pin plug once I shut the truck off.
Good advice and demo!
Thanks! Everyone rig is different, I just wanted to give an idea of how it all works.
Good information, Thank you.
Thanks 😊
Great info. Thank you!
Thanks for watching 😎
Hey Scott, do you attend the truck camper meetup every year?
Question you guys are awesome. Would Starlink work. Or is it still to new? Warren
Starlink works well. There has been some talk about reduced speeds in some areas because of rapid growth. However, it works where nothing else will. So there are trade offs. Over time, I’m sure capacity will increase and alleviate some of the congestion. We have had great luck with it, but speeds vary by location.
There are several Facebook groups about Starlink and people post about their problems and how it performs in various areas.
Great. Thanks for your reply. Truck camping. Man I remember that. On Long Island I used my truck camper on the Beach surf casting for stripers and Bluefish. Great memories. Now being in Florida I'm using a Coachman Orion 20CB Ford Transit. Good luck with all your doing. Be safe. Rubber side down always. That's motorcycle lingo. Ha ha but it works for you being off road. Warren
It sounds like a good time! Enjoy. Rubber side down always!
What editing software do you use for your awesome videos
Adobe Premier about 95% of the time. We also use LumaFusion on iPhone and iPad and sometimes I’ll use FCPX for specific needs.
Hey Scott really enjoying your videos 👍😊 very informative and helpful. About 2 weeks ago I traded in my 2017 RAM 1500 Laramie Crew Cab in for a 2017 RAM 3500 diesel Laramie Mega Cab dully. Looked for months. My 3500 has 2 batteries. A couple days ago I go outside to check fluids n stuff in truck and it will not start. Battery voltage 10.4vdc so I just start it after charging for 20 minutes n it cranks fine n I see 13.8 vdc. Next day dead batteries again. The odd thing is the date on both batteries is 2013. 8 year old batteries on a 4 year truck??? Have you ever heard of RAM installing 4 year old batteries in a new truck?
This is my 3 RAM truck but this is odd. Thanks Tom from Birmingham Alabama
It's very unlikely that RAM did that. Possibly someone replaced them before you bought the truck? Maybe they needed batteries and got a good deal on a used set? What brand battery were they? Also, did they have the felt covering on them?
@@Stonyboot yes both are identical batteries with black dusty felt lining wrapping top n sides of them. I pulled the top felt up to better see battery nameplate. It says basically Chrysler LL in Michigan and batteries from Johnson Controls Battery Group in Michigan…..some ratings like CCR ….. and a date of 2013 on the right side of nameplate. No month shown. I can’t believe these 2 batteries are 8 years old either but no other date this shown. I’ll jump it off n go get replaced. I’ll get a better view of batteries once they are out. I do think they are original n 4-5 years old but not 8 years old. I was hoping your 2018 RAM battery would have similar date 2013 nameplate mark and this means something different I think. Thanks 😊
Mine says 004429/2013. But that is a registry number, whatever that means. I can’t find a date on mine either. Chances are the date is located lower down. I think you’re right, they are not from 2013. That’s a different number.
@@Stonyboot yes that’s it 🙌
mine shows same number 👍 ok this is not a battery date but registration number.
thanks for the help. Thanks for sharing and safe travels 😎🎥🎶🐾🎬🏔🐿
Well done bud.
Thank you 😊
where do i get that tshirt?
We have closed down that store. The only shirts we have for sale now are the ones at the bottom of the video. You should see our Merch shelf below or beside the video.
I am assuming this needs to be done only when you are boondocking or not plugged into electricity. Is that correct?
Great video thank you!
Thanks for your time!
Great info! Thank you! ~carol
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! It’s appreciated!!!
Great video and nice truck. Any idea what your payload capacity is on a 3500 I’ve been considering a 5500 to carry a host mammoth camper
I have about 5000 lbs if payload. I’m already over my GVW. Get the 5500, Jared Sund with Stable Camper is a wealth of knowledge on this topic. We did a video that shows his flat bed setup with his camper.
We have a host mammoth and are so happy we have a ram 5500 with upgraded tires that have a load range of H.
My payload is 5079lb exact, I think you might be better off by 5500 for that beast. But I am sure so many people will carry that with 3500 as well but they pushing it 😅
I have a 2001 dodge 2500 and just used a ford cellenoid works good after all these years but having problems with the micky mouse work some one else did need a camper wiring diagram and have a hard time finding any thing cause it is not a stock set up "awsome video" even an old fart like me can follow it thanks for posting
I'm glad its helpful! Good luck tracking down your wiring.
Never mind the battery in your truck how you going to protect the alternator from overcooking DC to dc converter way to go👍😁😱 my two cents
I’m not sure I follow your comment. A DC-DC charger is a different topic from this. The amperage draw from the 7 pin is minimal, the most I ever see is about 5-7 amps, which won’t really have an effect on the alternator. Are you referring to our other video about the dual DC-DC chargers?
@@Stonyboot went to the victron website didn't see anything that would regulate the amperage there must be a circuit in your truck that's controlling the amount of amps going to your lithium Bank 🤔
It’s limited by the length and gauge of wire. With the voltage drop and small gauge wire, not much power can flow through it. It’s like having a long garden hose. Flow rate becomes greatly restricted. I added dual 40 amp DC-DC chargers so I can charge my bank at 80 amps from the trucks dual 220 amp alternators. I left the 7-pin connected simply for that extra 5-7 amps that I get while driving. Every little bit helps :$
The dc-dc controller controls volts/amps to batteries. Added fuses protect system.
Right on!
I would like to help you out and purchase th combiner. It your link does not work.
i don't have a truck camper yet. but my understanding is when boondocking, unplug from the truck, let the camper batteries run the camper, not additional power from the truck? that's why i hear people say their solar power actually keeps truck batteries and camper batteries up to capacity?
That is a common practice. Using a relay disconnects the truck automatically, which is essentially the same as unplugging it. There are several issues with drawing power from the truck, mainly, the trucks batteries are no deep cycle batteries, drawing them down will damage them. The biggest risk is leaving something on over night and accidentally draining the truck and camper batteries. Solar will certainly keep both batteries charged, but you also have to consider charge voltage and the types of chemistries involved. That topic is rather complex and I might go through it in a future video. The overall point is that waking up to a dead truck is no fun!
My 2003 Ford F-350 7.3 has 12v power off with key off .
Sounds about right. Just depends on the year, make and model.
Good to know!
Thanks!
My 2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD does not provide power with the ignition off.
Just be aware of connection! One can save your ass when you "forget".(And it's part of the design) I can see separation of Li to Agm, but if your Agm, just pay attention. or install a switch or a diode...
I'm not sure what you mean by "be aware of connection". The video is about installing a voltage sensing relay to do the remembering for you. I'm not a fan of diodes due to voltage drop and price. For a low amperage connection like this, a regular smart relay works perfectly!
@@Stonyboot Be aware of the connection is simple. Be aware that the Truck has a connection...Proper diodes....do not drop voltage..Try again
I killed both of my batteries one time and the reason why was I had a three-way refrigerator and I was parked I had it on automatic and my propane ran out and I wasn't hooked up to shore power so it switched automatically to DC and Bam came out to a dead truck battery😢
I've heard that story so many times, that's exactly why I made the video.
Just pull fuse 30...and done.
But doesn’t that just kill power all together?
@@Stonyboot Just no receptacle power from the 2 o'clock pin. All lights still work and having a DC to DC charger eliminated the need for it. I would look into it more if I was pulling a trailer, then you may need it for brakes or something.
I have a palomino ss-550 with a group 29 deep cycle battery in it. I installed my own battery monitor but noticed even After it was plugged into shore power all night last night that I only was at about 73% battery. And another day if I got it down to 60% or so at night and then drove for 5 hours the next day it would still only be about mid 60% range on charge. Any idea why this might be?? We are on a 5 week trip and drive a lot but still have yet to get the battery topped up. Thanks for any help! Great video! If you want to see our rig you can check out my channel if that provides any insight!
With a battery monitor, you need to get the battery 100% charged, then reset the monitor at 100%. You may be having an issue with it just being not calibrated correctly. What model/brand of monitor do you have?
As for driving and charging through the 7 pin connector. With the length of cable going from the alternator, to the 7 pin, back up through the camper to your batteries, there is a lot of voltage loss. Without sufficient voltage, batteries will not charge. If you have a relatively modern truck, its going to have a smart alternator, which regulates the output to recharge your starting battery and then reduces the output voltage to save fuel. This results in a normal 14-14.6 volt output for 5-15 minutes after you start your truck, and then it settles back down to a float charge in the low 13v range. This reduction of voltage, added to the voltage loss going to the camper batteries and you end up with little or no charging. Also, the size of wire going from the truck to the camper is so small that very little current can flow, especially given the distance.
My best suggestion is either more solar or a DC-DC charger from the truck to the camper.
I did a video about our DC-DC charging setup, but its a little overkill for what you are doing, however, it might give you some ideas.
Lastly, if your battery isn't charing while plugged in, it could be a problem with the converter or inverter/charger. Your best bet is to look up what voltage is considered 100% charged on your specific battery and test it with a multi-meter.
Let me know if this makes sense.
@@Stonyboot Hey man that's super helpful thank you. This is the monitor I got. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RDB6DXZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm looking at it right now while it's plugged into shore power and its showing 13.5 volts at 96% with the Battery switch connected (which allows use of DC power when not plugged in) and then when I disconnect the switch it shows 99% at 13.6 volts. Does that sound right to you?? Thanks for all of your input I really appreciate it as we are on the road and I'm able to do a DC to DC set up or something similar at the moment. Thanks man!
That makes sense now. Batteries are tricky things to monitor. When there is a load, the voltage will sag, look up “voltage sag”. Once the load is disconnected, the battery will rebound or recover some voltage. Voltage isn’t a good way to monitor battery capacity. Your best bet is look for a battery coulomb meter. These devices actually count the electrons in and out regardless of voltage. This lets you keep tabs on how many Amp Hours you have used and what you have left. We use a Renogy version and it’s been great. There are lots of option out there, but if you want a better understanding of actual power usage, a battery coulomb meter is the way to go.
This is what we use. amzn.to/3ka0bq7
K C - What type of batteries are in rv & charger? Lithium need different (adjustable) controller to charge them as the normal lead-acid type charger doesn't do the job.
Silly that such a simple part is not part of the camper at time of purchase. Given all the things on a camper for the convenience of use, hopefully manufacturers will adopt.
Some truck manufacturers have it setup to turn on and off with the ignition. I don’t know exactly what their reasons are, but some fords and Chevy trucks include that feature, some don’t. If RV manufacturers included it, that would ensure that people don’t have the problem, but I don’t think enough people request it.
the dealerships always rob the best batteries out of stuff befor they sell to other dealers or take them to the auction etc.
Why didn’t you just tell them to unplug it when they stop to camp. I have a truck camper and I’ve always known when you stop to camp you unplug it. The reason why it is plugged in when you are traveling is for your running lights and charge up your battery. Folks all you have to do is just unplug it when you get to the campsite and you’re ready to camp. Very simple. And it takes a second to do it. He’s making a mountain out of a mole hill.
No No No😱 never disconnect your camper from your Truck you will forget and you will be in an accident!!! Your driving lights and turn signals will not work when disconnect. Better a dead battery then a dead accident. Please remove this post ASAP......
I’m gonna have to disagree with you here. The camper is disconnected when it’s removed, and people should have a process for loading and unloading. Same with this, if someone doesn’t want to go the recommended route of installing an automatic relay, they have the option to unplug while they are camping. People with RVs need to secure everything before departing and as well as check tires, tie downs and ensure that all the panels and hatches are secured. The majority of people have a written check list or a mental checklist for these processes, they can simply add this item to their list.
In the video, I explained that I didn’t want to go that route because I knew that I’d forget. After discussing this topic in groups and forums, I found that most people unplug the camper snd plug it back in as part of their departure ritual. Removing the video would have no educational value and would allow for constructive discourse in the comments.
The camper should always be plugged in while in motion, it’s up to the discretion of the driver to determine how they want to handle the battery drain issue.
Always unplug my camper from truck when not traveling,no need for all the bullshit items,use your memory or put a sticky note on your dash.
That seems to be the default method for the majority.
Sticky notes are usually jog my memory - stow satellite dish, collect hummingbird feeder, etc. Wife checks brake lights & turn signals too.
Or , get a Ford .
That is an option. But changing trucks over a $40 relay isn’t on my list of priorities. I do love the Super Duty Fords though! The old 7.3 diesels were and are amazing 🤩