WOW!!!! You have NO idea how much TIME and FRUSTRATION you have saved me! Wonderful job, such a clear presentation it seems like it should have been obvious, but it wasn’t!!!!
Thank you so much, I'm so happy that it helped unlock the secrets for you! It's something that definitely looks like it's more complicated than it is-- and it can be depending on how you do it-- but not with this easy way, that's why I love it. :)
Walking feet are great, but if you don't have one, another trick is to use some light interfacing to stabilize that area before you sew it. It will align better and not shift around and stretch in the weave as you sew.
Ha ha, it did make a lovely dress several years ago, I’ll try to wear it in a future video! Ironically it didn’t involve matching as it’s a wrap back dress. 😂
@tasha thank you for this video. When I taught myself this yrs ago there was nothing to figure out lining up prints. I sat with the patterns & fabric until I figured it out. I primarily use it for doll clothes.
This is brilliant! i make a lot of waistcoats which have needed print matching down the CF. I have managed to do this in the past but with a LOT of faffing around. This looks so much easier - I can't wait to give it a try! Thank you!!!!!
This is a fantastic tutorial! It is such a simple and accurate way to do it. Thank you! ❤ Wish I hadn't just cut out a bodice back with unmatched back seam 2 days ago!
I use this method for matching back zipper installation or buttoned fronts. For a front seam, I just fold back the seam allowance and cut on a fold, eliminating the unnecessary seam. For a planned placement of large motifs on front, I would fold back seam allowance, trace the full front bodice or skirt shape onto tissue paper, then shift that shape around to get a pleasing look.
You can't always avoid a center front seam. The example I showed was one where I wasn't able to fit the entire front due to narrow yardage (as I said in the beginning). I was initially going to add a notch to make it make more visual 'sense' that there would be a CF seam, but in the end it was so invisible, I didn't bother. I can't even see the seam when I'm wearing it, and the seam is 6 inches from my nose. 😂
This looks so much easier! So sensible! At the very end there is some fabric with Italian women pictured. I have some antique tea towels from Gumps in San Francisco that have the same style drawings. Where’d you find that fabric?
Thanks, I love this method! Honestly I don't remember where I purchased the fabric, it was some vintage yardage that I believe I got on Etsy several years back. It made such a fun dress. Very cool that you have tea towels with the same style.
Thanks! I’ve managed to do it with very limited fabric many times, though it’s sometimes a challenge! You might be surprised at how little extra you need usually. ☺️
Was thinking last night about this and thought running a line of Taylor’s chalk down the edge of the matched first pattern piece, marking the edge hem of pattern and neck line also, then laying the second pattern piece so the seam allowance hangs over the Taylor’s chalk line. You’re got me thinking.
Thanks and welcome to the channel!! I love sewing with plaid! I definitely plan to cover plaid at some point! Hopefully soon. But it's a hard one to do since there are sooo many variables so I haven't had the time to put it together yet. 😊
You're so welcome! I don't sew a lot of princess seams but I think the answer is partially-- you wouldn't be able to get it to be perfect on the curved part but you definitely can below the bust where it's straight, using this general technique.
Thanks! Yep you can do that. I just tend to fold one way or the other and place the pattern piece based on what makes most sense for the project-not strictly left or right, since I may be shorter on fabric towards one side of the print than that other-and since I’m often using a bodice multiple times, for me I don’t always do it the same way each time. I’ve never forgotten to unfold it but given that I accidentally cut off my seam allowance on two spots in my last video I felt it was worth the warning. 😂
Thanks! I honestly can't give an exact number, but I would say not too much extra unless what you're matching is a really big piece. If it's just a bodice piece, I don't actually buy anymore and pretty much always manage to squeeze it in!! But maybe an extra 1/4 yard to be safe.
Ironically the dress I made from this fabric several years ago is a back wrap dress so it didn't have any print matching! But it's a lovely summer dress. I'll try to wear it on the channel or show it on my Instagram account when it's warm enough to pull it out. 😊
Ooh plaid pants! I sewed a pair that are one of my favorite jobs of print and plaid matching. (I’m wearing them in my top vintage coats video if you want to see them.) Plaid is its own beast in many respects but you’ll want to think through from the crotch seam out to the side seams. The side seams are curved so you can’t really match the print at the seam but you can match the plaid lines horizontally at the side seams and it’ll have a nice chevron down the sides. Plus the center front and back are more visually important to have the plaid placed nicely across the seam or mirrored across.
Do you mean like a center front or back seam that extends from the bodice all the way down to the skirt? You can still do it if you have enough fabric. If it’s straight all the way down, no problem. Just exactly as I described. And if the seam starts to curve as it gets to the waistline or hip or wherever, that’s just the point where it’ll stop being able to match. I’ve only done it once on a dress like this but it worked nicely. I was using a small scale check/plaid and the bodice was matched perfectly and as it got to the skirt where the seam started flaring out it chevroned.
I have been sewing for 50ish years and this is something that challenged me. I can match so much better now!!! Thank you!
I'm so happy this was helpful!
That's really impressive to get such a precise match across a lapped zipper. Well done!
WOW!!!! You have NO idea how much TIME and FRUSTRATION you have saved me! Wonderful job, such a clear presentation it seems like it should have been obvious, but it wasn’t!!!!
Thank you so much, I'm so happy that it helped unlock the secrets for you! It's something that definitely looks like it's more complicated than it is-- and it can be depending on how you do it-- but not with this easy way, that's why I love it. :)
This is the best pattern matching tutorial I’ve seen! Thank you so much for your clear and simple instruction 😊
Thanks for a well explained tutorial. You’ve pulled back the curtain to the magic. Cute hair! ❤
Thanks so much! 😊
Think I am finally ready to tackle plaids after watching this tutorial!!
YAY! You can do it! I plan to do a plaid matching tutorial but it's going to have a lot more going on so it's been hard to carve out the time. :)
Thank you for such a clear explanation of matching patterns.
This is amazing
Thank you ❤️
You're very welcome 😊
@@tashacouldmakethat ❤️❤️❤️
This is genius!!!! I was making it a much harder than it needed to be. Thank you so much!
You are so welcome!
Pattern matching has always been a mystery to me. You explain it so well, I can’t wait to try it. Thank you. 9:58
You're very welcome, happy to help unravel the mystery for you!
Walking feet are great, but if you don't have one, another trick is to use some light interfacing to stabilize that area before you sew it. It will align better and not shift around and stretch in the weave as you sew.
You explained that so well! I can't wait to try to tackle print matching. But I'm kind of sad you won't be making something with that beautiful print.
Ha ha, it did make a lovely dress several years ago, I’ll try to wear it in a future video! Ironically it didn’t involve matching as it’s a wrap back dress. 😂
Yay! Saving this tutorial for future reference. Thank you so much for sharing this knowledge ❤️
Me too!
You are so welcome, hope it comes in handy sometime!
Perfectly clear explanation. Such a gorgeous fabric!
Thank you so much!
Yes, love the fabric too
Brilliant! Thank you. I don't sew many prints, but I am now itching to try this.
Worth doing on a little tiny swatch then just for fun maybe! 😉 It's like magic watching it work.
Great video❤❤
That was beautiful to watch, thank you ❤
You are so welcome!
Thanks for making this seem so accessible and doable!
You're very welcome, it is indeed much more doable than it seems (seams, har) at a glance!
You absolute freaking magician!! Thank you so much for sharing this. What a clever tip!!
You’re so welcome, enjoy working the sewing magic! ☺️🪄
Fantastic tutorial thank you!!!
You're very welcome!
@tasha thank you for this video. When I taught myself this yrs ago there was nothing to figure out lining up prints. I sat with the patterns & fabric until I figured it out. I primarily use it for doll clothes.
This is brilliant! i make a lot of waistcoats which have needed print matching down the CF. I have managed to do this in the past but with a LOT of faffing around. This looks so much easier - I can't wait to give it a try! Thank you!!!!!
Thanks! Sounds like a wonderful use for this method, hope it helps cut down on the faffing around time. 😁
Super clear tutorial and such a lovely print!
This is a fantastic tutorial! It is such a simple and accurate way to do it. Thank you! ❤ Wish I hadn't just cut out a bodice back with unmatched back seam 2 days ago!
Thank you so much! Well hey it'll be here for your next bodice when you need it! ☺️
I use this method for matching back zipper installation or buttoned fronts. For a front seam, I just fold back the seam allowance and cut on a fold, eliminating the unnecessary seam. For a planned placement of large motifs on front, I would fold back seam allowance, trace the full front bodice or skirt shape onto tissue paper, then shift that shape around to get a pleasing look.
You can't always avoid a center front seam. The example I showed was one where I wasn't able to fit the entire front due to narrow yardage (as I said in the beginning). I was initially going to add a notch to make it make more visual 'sense' that there would be a CF seam, but in the end it was so invisible, I didn't bother. I can't even see the seam when I'm wearing it, and the seam is 6 inches from my nose. 😂
Very helpful..thank you 😊
You're welcome!
Thank you soooo much. You uncomplicated it and made it manageable 😊
Oh I’m so glad to hear it! 🥰
Soooo simple yet I have never thought of doing it this way!!!!! THANK YOU!!!!!!!😊
You are so welcome!
Genius way of doing it. 😊
Thank you!! I love this method. 😁
Absolutely fantastic and such a great tutorial, thank you Tasha!
You’re very welcome, glad you liked it!
Excellent!
I've been waiting for you to post this video since last year! Thank you!
You're welcome! This one was a long time coming. ☺️
Subscribed at 0:45. You are good at this!
Thank you and welcome! 😊
Oaaaa!Wonderful!Thanks!
You're welcome! ☺️
Thank you!
You're welcome!
OMG mind blown!!!
😁
This looks so much easier! So sensible! At the very end there is some fabric with Italian women pictured. I have some antique tea towels from Gumps in San Francisco that have the same style drawings. Where’d you find that fabric?
Thanks, I love this method! Honestly I don't remember where I purchased the fabric, it was some vintage yardage that I believe I got on Etsy several years back. It made such a fun dress. Very cool that you have tea towels with the same style.
Thank you for sharing! This is brilliant!
This is amazing! I'm starting a new play list for tutorials that I will need to remind me of what I should do to make it easy!
Great idea on the playlist! I also have playlists on the channel for the various things I cover, so there's a sewing tutorials and tips playlist. 😊
Such a great tutorial!! And so well executed. I’m saving this one for future reference.
Thanks so much, hope it’ll come in good use!
Great instructions. I would need to buy more fabric to allow me to play with the fabric to get a perfect match. Easy. 😊
Thanks! I’ve managed to do it with very limited fabric many times, though it’s sometimes a challenge! You might be surprised at how little extra you need usually. ☺️
Was thinking last night about this and thought running a line of Taylor’s chalk down the edge of the matched first pattern piece, marking the edge hem of pattern and neck line also, then laying the second pattern piece so the seam allowance hangs over the Taylor’s chalk line. You’re got me thinking.
YES! I needed this tutorial. Thank you for making this make sense!
Yay, glad it was helpful!
Yes!!!! Thank you this looks so much easier than I thought
It REALLY is!!
Fantastic vlog x
Thank you!
This is genius! New subbie here!!! Any chance you could show how to match plaids/stripes?
Thanks and welcome to the channel!! I love sewing with plaid! I definitely plan to cover plaid at some point! Hopefully soon. But it's a hard one to do since there are sooo many variables so I haven't had the time to put it together yet. 😊
Awesome that fabric is gorgeous
Thank you! 😊 It made a beautiful dress several years ago, ironically not one I needed to match anything on as it wraps in the back. 😂
Amazing, thank you!!!!!!
You're so welcome!
Million thanks for the great tutorial 💕
You are so welcome!
I've saved this for my next dress project! Thank you sooo much for this tutorial! Can the same technique done with princess seams??
You're so welcome! I don't sew a lot of princess seams but I think the answer is partially-- you wouldn't be able to get it to be perfect on the curved part but you definitely can below the bust where it's straight, using this general technique.
Thanks this was great
Thank you!
Great explanation! Thanks❤
You’re very welcome, and thanks!
I saw someone on tv wearing a patterned suit, some of the panels were clearly upside down arghhh!
Oof! When you start to have an eye for matching you see unmatched things everywhere. The worst is often plaid and I can't unsee it. 😂
That would distract me so much I wouldn't even be able to focus on the show! 😱
I knew it was magic!!😮
Easy-to-do magic! 😁🪄
So clever👍👍👍😍😍😍
Thanks! :)
@@tashacouldmakethat thank YOU😁
So great, I sure will try that out very soon.
Thanks!
This is awesome! What if you folded the seam allowance on the pattern up instead instead of under as a visual reminder?
Thanks! Yep you can do that. I just tend to fold one way or the other and place the pattern piece based on what makes most sense for the project-not strictly left or right, since I may be shorter on fabric towards one side of the print than that other-and since I’m often using a bodice multiple times, for me I don’t always do it the same way each time. I’ve never forgotten to unfold it but given that I accidentally cut off my seam allowance on two spots in my last video I felt it was worth the warning. 😂
I love the bolero! May I ask which pattern you used!
Thanks, that's my Confidette bolero pattern, you can find it on Ravelry and Payhip: www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/confidette
payhip.com/b/gVpWx
This is great 👍🏼 how much extra fabric do you usually allow for when pattern matching like this?
Thanks! I honestly can't give an exact number, but I would say not too much extra unless what you're matching is a really big piece. If it's just a bodice piece, I don't actually buy anymore and pretty much always manage to squeeze it in!! But maybe an extra 1/4 yard to be safe.
Can we see the dress you made from that fabric? It looks so pretty!
Ironically the dress I made from this fabric several years ago is a back wrap dress so it didn't have any print matching! But it's a lovely summer dress. I'll try to wear it on the channel or show it on my Instagram account when it's warm enough to pull it out. 😊
Great tips! I’m about to try to make pants with plaid for the first time? Do you match across the crotch line or start with outer leg seams?
Ooh plaid pants! I sewed a pair that are one of my favorite jobs of print and plaid matching. (I’m wearing them in my top vintage coats video if you want to see them.) Plaid is its own beast in many respects but you’ll want to think through from the crotch seam out to the side seams. The side seams are curved so you can’t really match the print at the seam but you can match the plaid lines horizontally at the side seams and it’ll have a nice chevron down the sides. Plus the center front and back are more visually important to have the plaid placed nicely across the seam or mirrored across.
And what do you do about dresses with no waistline seam that flare out?
Do you mean like a center front or back seam that extends from the bodice all the way down to the skirt? You can still do it if you have enough fabric. If it’s straight all the way down, no problem. Just exactly as I described. And if the seam starts to curve as it gets to the waistline or hip or wherever, that’s just the point where it’ll stop being able to match. I’ve only done it once on a dress like this but it worked nicely. I was using a small scale check/plaid and the bodice was matched perfectly and as it got to the skirt where the seam started flaring out it chevroned.