Sprueing Waxes for Lost Wax Casting
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- Опубликовано: 22 фев 2019
- Another video added to our series about casting. Dan walks us through our process of spruing waxes.
Thanks for watching! If you have any questions leave a comment down below. Join our RUclips membership program to get 1:1 help. - Shannon & Dan
•Lost Wax Casting Process In Order •
Wax carving - • Wax Carving for Lost W...
Molding and Wax Injection - • Molding and Wax Inject...
Sprueing - • Sprueing Waxes for Los...
Investment and Vacuum Casting - • Tool Talk: Kaya Cast V...
or Centrifugal Casting - • Centrifugal Casting Ma...
Finishing:
-Filing • Jewellery Finishing Pa...
-Sanding • Jewellery Finishing Pa...
-Polishing • Jewellery Finishing Pa...
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I recently found your channel and I find your videos very informative. Thank you for all the work you do to teach people you don’t even know what to do in this industry.
I don’t know how to deal with the smoke coming off of my Arbe wax pen, when I am spruing the wax
I hope you can help with some tips on what level heat to use and how to reduce smoke
Excellent demo.
Excellent info. Thank you.
Thank You for the helpful tips
Thank you!
Awesome video, I figured out my main problem was trying to melt the wax spruce and accidentally make it short rather than picking up more wax and adding it to your sprue
Very impressive
Very good I learned a lot. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for these vids!
Glad you like them!
Thank you! Excellent video! Question- do you have a specific temperature you set your wax pen to when using the red sprue wax?
Thank you for the clear and helpful instruction! I’ve seen some people make like sprue bridge going from the wax molds to the bottom/top of the flask to make air vent (does that make sense? I’m bad at describing) do you think it’s necessary? I’ve also seen people not doing it and have success so I’m not sure
Other casting studios will do things like add wax mesh to increase vacuum pressure when using non-perforated flasks, some casting studios also utilize sand casting methods like creating vents leading from the top of the model and leading into the button (often called chimneys).
We haven't needed to look into either case as vacuum casting with perforated flasks takes care of the "issues" that those methods are attempting to solve.
Thank you, I have learned lots 🙏😊. How do you cope with different burn out schedules for different waxes on the same tree ?
We follow the recommended burn out schedule as per the investment type we are using. Waxes are close enough that we don't change anything. When doing a split wax and 3d print we follow the investment schedule for the 3d prints.
Clear Mind Jewellery yeah, that makes perfect sense, thank you. I can’t afford castable resin yet so I will print, mould, inject wax then cast. Cheers
very informative! thank you very much! I started doing my castings and I would say spruing is the hardest part of the whole process. Nice tip about lifting the base. One question....You put all 3D prints, injection wax and carved wax on the same tree. Are the prints solidscape wax or resin? thank you
The 3D prints are all wax, you can mix and match waxes in a flask its all fine. If I do resin I make sure its a castable kind.
@@ClearMindJewellery I see. Thank you. What printer did you use for 3D prints? solidscape ?
Its a ProJet MJP 3600 system. We contract our printing out. This system is duel nozzle so we have high res waxes with dissolving supports.
@@ClearMindJewellery Excellent video! Thx! If you use resin prints for casting, lets say powerresin-dark 3d prints which you seem to use quite often, you then mix them with wax or resin sprues? Anyway I heard resin does not stick well to neither wax nor resin... What do you use in that case to build the tree for the casting? Thank you
Thanks for sharing. Very helpful. I am now getting started with lost wax casting. I was wondering if your wax pen is home made. I like it. How can I get one like it. Thanks for your help.
We didn't make our own, but we'd recommend the following: pepetools.com/collections/wax-working-1/products/touchamatic-wax-worker-with-4-tips#?aff=24
Hi great video! Thank you for posting! I have a question I'm am new to casting recently just purchased a suction vacuum for my castings. I was having a problem and am trying to figure out what it is. My furnace is having problems with adjusting to the correct temperature it only stays at 300 or less and turns off on its own. My castings are not coming together at all could it be because the flask isn't hot enough in the center?and the molten sets right away?
If your metal and flask aren't at the proper temps that is always a good place to start.
Your flask should be approx 1000 degrees below the casting temp of the metal at time of cast. This means the flask is usually twice as hot as what you're saying your kiln is getting to, depending on your metal.
@@ClearMindJewellery Im having incomplete castings? it goes all the way untill the spru and stops there. Im using the vacuum suction.
Hi, @@macykeovilay6010 I think you also commented on our instagram. Unless we know more of the process we can't really help. It could be the way things are put on the tree, the temperature in your original comment is a concern, if your vacuum isn't performing correctly, etc.
If you want a specific diagnosis you can join our membership program and come to the Discord group with some photos and other info and we might be able to help. - Shannon
Great video man! I'm trying to dabble in metal casting myself, but I'm struggling to find anywhere to purchase wax sprues. The ones sold online are super expensive.
Is there any way to make my own sprues? (or any other advise would be greatly appreciated)
The easiest way would be to make a mould and inject your own, you could make the smaller and larger central rods in any variation you want this way. This is definitely something I am considering doing myself at some point in the future to save on cost.
Of course this only really works if you have a wax injector.
If you’re printing models you can avoid all but the central sprue by printing them in place or even just printing the entire tree preassembled.
What kind of sprueing wax do you use and where do you get it? Also, where do you get the thicker sprues that act as the base sprue?
We get most of our casting supplies from Gesswein. The smaller pink ones are pretty standard. The 3/8” central sprue is available in flexible pink and rigid turquoise. I strongly recommend pink.
Hi. I have an Anycubic Photon and use BlueCast Original castable resin. I always follow curing instructions, but why my casting service is unable to cast my prints properly?
Antonio Cataldo with printing still being rather new not all casting studios have practice at casting from prints. There needs to be a longer burnout with printed pieces and your casting studio needs to be more aware of spru size and placement in case of ash.
Question, why are some waxes difficult to melt together?
Every wax has a different melting temperature. Red spru rod (as seen in the video) is generally low temp and quite soft and green and purple waxes are not. There are other types of spru rod that may have a better temperature rating for the type of wax you're using in your models to make the spruing process easier.
Hey @Clear Mind Jewellery, What wax pen are you using in this video?
It’s by Arbe I think it’s simply called the wax pen/heating tool.
ruclips.net/video/O_O_uufa2d4/видео.html
@@ClearMindJewellery Thank you!
Can i ask what might be a stupidish question? I'm a noob. Thus far I've prepared some wax copies of rings thru silicone molds. I'll be moving along to the plaster part soon i hope but a question occurred to me. Is it 100% necessary to melt out the wax from the plaster? Why can't you pour the molten metal into the funnel and let the hot metal just melt and replace the wax? I know i don't have a full grasp on the mechanics yet but i was thinking about the point while watching people carefully melt wax out of their flasks.
The fumes “wax” would have to have somewhere to go and the metal would be in the only way out. The wax would have to incinerate instantly which usually it’s doesn’t.
You need the burnout cycle anyway to properly set your plaster.
El conservar la cera,para que el metal la desplaze es incorrecto,pues la cera al findirse oroduce gases que pueden quedar en el colado.mejor aun porque mejor haces un molde vipartido ypuedes espulsar mas rapido la cera.
Si tienes un molde de hule vulcanizado y lo ahogas durante 24 horas el molde se hincha casi 500 veces,posteriormente con parafina cuelas un modelo unas. 50 veces mas grande,proceso "jonapru"
I am watching this video to understand the difference between handmade, lost wax cast and die, to help value jewelry. This doesn't seem to be much of a short cut to handmade and also requires skills. I think its more complex then many handmade pieces. Is this true ? Is the wax piece carved by the creater too or can they be purchased ready to cast?
Wax models are generally carved by hand. I've never seen pre-carved models before for sale, however you can purchase injectable rubber molds and skip both the carving and mold making processes.
If you are doing one of a kind hand carved waxes it doesn't really save much time vs fabrication. If you decide to learn mold making, 3D printing, or another reproduction method that is when you will save time over hand fabrication.
Good evening, which 3d resin do you use? And machine?
Prusa SL1 printer. We’ve tried a bunch of different resins but right now we prefer Power Resins Dark
Am i corrext in thinking you don't need air vents for this kind of casting?
For lost wax casting you don't need air vents. If there was metal would flow out. As it is the investment is porous enough that air can get through when vacuumed.
What thickness is the center sprue rod? And where do I get it?
Wax info listed here with our other tools clearmindcasting.com/pages/recommended-tool-list
after casting, is it not difficult removing the spru's
The spru's can be removed with either snips, a jewellers saw, or a rotary tool with zip discs. Its really easy if the items are spaced correctly.