, sounds pretty stout for a poulon. I have been watching your channel for awhile now & you definitely know how to hop up a saw & get them to run like a champ. Keep the videos coming. 👍
Over twenty five years I’ve had two Poulan‘s and they’ve been absolutely bullet proof. The secret that I’ve found, is to give them a good clean and always drain the fuel out each time and always run them till all the residue fuel is used. Then top up the oil bar tank. As a matter of interest, I do this with all my small two stroke engines.
@Steve Paul if it has any ethanol yes it’s hard on lines/check valves and even eats metal if it sits in there long enough. New lines “should” be better than the old lines as far as resistance to ethanol goes.
I have a wild thing that I modified like you did except for the muffler. Besides enlarging the opening in the cover over the spark arrestor, 33:57 I took the metal tubes where the screws go into the muffler and drilled some holes along the sides of them. Made a big difference.
@user-ro6fy7ww9h yes that’s another way a subscriber showed me how to open up those mufflers. Taking that plate right off is the best but it burns the wood if you ate bucking large rounds.
Hey bud I wanna say thanks and echo what you're putting out here on this video. I've got a 5020 and a 4218. Both ran ok but would die after finishing a cut. Plus they were hard to start cold or warm. After opening up the spark plug gap they run like champs. Now they usually start on the first or second pull. I'm very impressed with how well they run now after that simple mod. Thanks for the advice!
Letting any engine breath will definitely help. To bad manufacturers have to meet emission standards by strangling their products. I've also found that the Metering Lever, in the Carb, need a bit of adjusting.
I have the same saw and I have done the same to the plug and air cleaner as you did. That alone made it much easier to start and run much better. As far a Poulan goes I also have a Sears Craftsman with a smaller engine that I got as a gift in the early 90's and it has always been a better saw than the Pro. It was also made by Poulan.
Husqvarna makes Craftsman 42cc and the PP4218A that you have. I have one of each. They are identical. Can't get parts for the Craftsman but you can for the Poulan Pro. I got a Craftsman 42cc where the clutch exploded and the saw was BRAND NEW. Who doesn't take it back? But I don't mind. $50 for the saw 27.50 for the clutch kit and I'll have 2 basically identical saws.
@crowwick7652 right on good to hear. Bogging down is not good at all it means the engine is starving for fuel. Sometimes a pin hole or crack in a fuel line will cause that other times it’s as simple as a carb adjustment and giving more fuel.
Really the best homeowners saw there is a fair price, not much to go wrong once chain is adjusted and carb screws out a tad I have high dallor saws but these work great and they get it done ✅
I guess it's a later model but poulan makes a 42 cc that has a steel rod linkage going from the front of the trigger to the carb lever and I like it a lot better than the cable version
Cool mods i have the same saw on my atv love it . When starting i never ever have used the bulb primer just pull choke starts just as good for me anyway . Cuts any tree ever ran across the trails been running poulan for at least 6 yrs no complaints it just runs 👍
Ya I think it depends on your temperature and altitude or because you may have had it tuned but the problem is these things are tuned for a broad range so what works at sea level may not work for someone at 5000 feet or someone who only uses theirs in winter vs someone who uses it in summer. That saw was new when I got it and it never ran quite right but in the end it was a good saw for the price. I run a little mid 90’s McCulloch which was given to me for “Parts” but with a few little mods it’s a great little bush saw.
Thanks, I picked up the same saw for a hundred bucks from a friend. I've always been a Stihl guy, but it starts good and cuts great. Great info, thanks again, oz
Right on. Ya they are not as terrible as some people make them out to be. It was not great when first started playing around with it but the end result was good. Is your saw stock or did you do the little mods in the video to it?
I am a Stihl guy also I have six of them (ms250-661 sizes). But at the end of the day when I am dead tired, I grab my Poulan 295 or 4620 to finish up with.
Thanks. I will be using your ideas on this same model saw and a couple of other Poulans after I finish a couple of Husqvarna rebuilds... I think when I drill the holes in the case for the carb, I will put some aluminum window screen inside the case over the holes and melt it into the plastic with a woodburner to see if that helps keep sawdust out... One more thought about the people mentioning taking the tubular sleeves out of the muffler: I could be wrong but it seems that those sleeves probably help keep (too much) heat from transferring through the bolts and back into the cylinder. I may experiment with that at some point because I've been wondering about it for some time.
Depends on what model Poulan you have. On the 2150/2050’s etc yes it can be done. A Husqvarna 41 sprocket and .325” chain will work but on the 4218A and that style they use a different clutch so it won’t work on those. I’m trying to find a way to do ot on those but havn’t figured it out yet. Check out my video with the 2150 it talks about the swap on there. Made a HUGE difference in the way that saw cuts.
IF the 2250 is just like the 2050/2150 then yes but I haven’t worked on any of the saws you mensioned. I only used the regular sprocket off the Husky 41 but I looked at the Husky parts diagram and they had a listing for a clutch drum with a rim sprocket.
I have the red craftsman version of that saw, it's the exact same machine. I have had it for a long time and never really run it. The word I would use to describe it is lazy... I can totally see those mods waking it up. I took the stock filter out and cut a foam one for it out of a Briggs pre filter, that quite a difference. It was tuned poorly from the factory and was a pig until I tuned it just lately. It may get the same port job as my 2150. The trick to opening that exhaust up without cutting the slots is getting a short bolt for one mounting hole and you remove one of the cylinders that the exhaust bolts go through and put the bolt in through the open hole. The newer 2150s have the same design and it really opens it up no cutting. I made an Iron Horse pipe for the 2150 and it absolutely rocks.
@@dooberoso the trick is to pull one of them, tune it and try it. Both may be too much. I pulled one on the first 2150 I ported for my stepson and it's right on the money.
I would only do the one on the left side of the saw by the exhaust deflector. If you do the other one closer to the chain the exhaust will shoot straight out and if yiu are cutting bigger wood it’ll burn the bark.
The easiest muffler mod on these is to remove the two sleeves in the middle of the muffler that the attachment bolts go through. They will pop right out with a flat head screwdriver. Just that alone opens it up enough to make a big difference in power.
It does but then it burns the wood if you are bucking up bigger stuff. I ended up drilling holes in the left tube plus ground the opening bigger and it really woke it up good.
the whole thing with the intake is that the flywheel fan blow through and precleans the air also you may have robbed the cylinder from proper cooling as well I'm all about mods so long as they don't compromise the saw!!
There is a divider between the intake and where it blows over the fins so it can’t rob from the cooling. This system doesn’t preclean the air you are thinking of Jonsered “turbo style system. These simply just blow air over the engine not in the carb area then there is a little hole near the flywheel where the intake is supposed to suck “fresh” air but it’s also heated air and a tiny opening for an intake. I usually tape that right off on these saws and have it suck air from the cover. I get way less saw dust in the carb area with that hole sealed off. Not sure if I did it on this saw though but have done it to the 20/2150’s.
Never put it away wet. Drain and then run out of fuel out. Get a high quality spark plug, air filter. And don't use the pre mixed fuel crap. If have access use aviation fuel, even make your own ethanol free fuel, lots videos how to do that.
New to your channel and have subscribed - really enjoy the content. Thanks for sharing these tips on this Poulan saw - I’m currently running this exact saw and will keep this info in mind. Cheers
I know exactly what you mean about how it burbbles or whatever a little bit its like it takes a slight second to rev when you pull the trigger.. if that makes sense haha.. its almost a tad slow to react or something but i made my own exahust for it and now its a totally different beast haha for 42cc's haha. The little poulan pro 260 I got given to me when I was young I still own and it fires up every single time in 2 pulls no issues at all and I have bigger saws like the husky g395xp and it takes 3 or 4 pulls when cold to fire but that little poulan takes 2 pulls at most and I keep it in my main offroad recovery truck in a saw case in the toolbox and my guys love it and I did an exhaust mod on it and it woke it up like it's a totally different saw :) my guys actually asked me if I did a bore or something haha but it's completely stock same piston it's had since I got it back in the late 90s haha its a 1995 model I believe :)
We don’t really have trees that big, most are misquite trees and 12 inches is pretty much max where I live, most are 6/8 inches and a 18 bar is plenty wide 42 cc poulan saw😊
I have a Mculloch 4218 I think it's a rebranded Poulan ,mine has this weird tool free chain tensioner which broke so I modified it ,it's a good powerful saw ,lightweight and very low vibration .
Yes I believe they did come under the McCulloch name. I think I have that same saw you were talking about but it’s a Poulan pro. I really like that chain adjuster super fast/easy.
Quick and easy muffler mod. Remove spark arestor screen. 2 flair or cut the flap on the spark arestor cover for more flow. Remove the right hand muffler bolt tube from the muffler. replace bolt. Appx.30% more flow. Then do the air filter mods. Wonder how dimples on top of piston would do... (like "speed of air" diesel piston treament) Somebody try it.
“Always waiting to play ball...” that’s exactly how my wrenching partner is too! I wouldn’t trade her for anything though, she’s better than any human I know.
The muffler came loose on mine. I noticed a dramatic power increase. Why !!! I thought two-cycle engines needed a "timed" "tuned" back pressure from the exhaust.
The problem I have with these is the chain and clutch getting jammed up with sawdust and twigs and if you don't stop and clean it out before you continue things get hot fast and then the chain stops moving freely. Good for short duty cycles I guess.
The strato crab is a different animal. I have them on both 3800 and it takes time to get it right. The muffler will come apart, by pulling the flange back, and pinch it back together. In in stead of holes in the intake for carb, cut one long hole on top, and 3 small holes son the bottom. The amount of air intake should be 35- 40% less than the out let. With some back pressure. Do not port these saws. They will not take it. I tried and the fly wheel came apart, and parts just missed my head. 😵💫
You got that right on these carbs! It took me a while to figure them out but I had that 4218A running like a top when I sold it. Hot start, cold start etc it ran flawless. As for the intake I didn’t want to hack it up to much as I was selling it. Same with the muffler. Ya I keep hearing about these flywheels I might have to wear a full face helmet if I port one lol. That’s twice now I heard about the flywheels coming apart.
the thing I hate most about Poulin chainsaws is the trigger system they always feel a little sticky and its because how they make their throttle with that curve
No the top barrel is for extra air the bottom barrel is just a regular carb with a choke. These carbs are famous for being hard to tune but i’ve figured out why. I have another 3416 I need to rebuild and it has this same carb. I think I’ll do a video on how to tune them because once they ate set right they really work good but I had problems with mine until I figured them out.
I did something along these lines, I just drilled through the front cover twice. Later I plan on taking to weld shop and weld two pipes on. Performance is way way better, just rips through wood now. Leave it to democrats to regulate crap, ruins everything, I want firewood, my chimney will polute way more than my damn chainsaw. Because of EPA regs these saws just can't breath. Used to be mine, but not any more.
@sterlingbaker2257 I was able to get something on there a piece of plastic but it didn’t change anything. At the time I didn’t know how the strato engines worked but I think it just ads more air later than with in intake charge.
Probably because of the amount of air it can get through it with the cover mod and the exhaust mod is why it needed a lot more plug gap if I had to make an educated guess haha those two mods alone allow it to breathe 100% better than they do stock.. 😀 I did the same mods to my weed eater also and it woke up a lot just like the poulan pro 260 saw I have did 😀
@Mark Gosselin that is incorrect. The bottom “barrel” as you call it is the actual carburetor like on any other saw and also includes the choke. The top simply adds air after the slots on the piston line up with the intake open for that extra air. It has it’s own throttle control that only opens at 3/4 throttle.
@Mark Gosselin well not on that particular saw on that particular video it’s not and if it’s the way you say it is then you must have some oddball system that I’ve never seen before. All you have to do is go onto Amazon and bring up a picture of it and it quite clearly shows that the bottom is the carb that holds the metering lever the diaphragms just like any other carb on any chainsaw. I’ve worked on several of these two barrel designs I bored the carbs and everything so I know them quite well I’m not sure what model you’re talking about but it’s not the ones that I have. The top barrel is not directly attached to the bottom carb it simply adds air and nothing else like I already mention. You’ll have to do a video showing the carb if you have one that’s different than all of these I would love to see it.
I have one very close to that one...maybe newer Idk...but it's a poulan pro 42...but it's made by husqvarna...idk if they all are...but mine had husqvarna baging all over inside the plastic cover..even the spark plug says husqvarna
What fuel ratio are you running? Just curious, I just bought a Poulan 42/18 and it calls for 50:1. Also does yours leak a lot of bar oil? If so, how can I slow it down? Mine leaks a lot of bar oil
@Gary Allen it should be 40:1 and if not make it 40:1. That’s the best all around mix ratio for these saws. Mine never leaked a drop if yours is it is most likely the bar oiler line came off or has a pin hole in it.
@@Indeewoods That's what I wanted to run. I run 40:1 True-fuel in my trimmers I wanted to wait and get your thoughts.Whats your opinion on Canned fuel? You definitely know your way around a saw. Thank you so much for responding to my comment, you got me as a sub. I've been checking out your videos and definitely know your shit.
@Gary Allen I don’t use the canned fuel. Would be to expensive for the amount I use saws but it’s good stuff especially for someone who only uses a saw a few times a year. And thanks I wouldn’t say I’m an expert with saws but I know enough to get me by for sure. Thanks for the sub and thanks for watching.
@@Indeewoods I got the bar oil leak fixed, the metal cover that goes over the oiler wasn't on properly. I took the cover off and realigned it and tightened the bar cover nuts and that solved the issue. Thanks for thoughts on the oiler hose, if not for that I probably wouldn't have checked it out as good as I did. Awesome vids keep them coming
That peace of plastic on the throttle that moves the butterfly on the top barrel of the carb has broken on mine, i can't find that part so now i got a 200 dollar piece of crap that won't run.
Do the aftermarket carbs come with them? I’m sure you could fab one out of metal if there are no other options. Did you contact Poulan/Husqvarna see if they can get it?
You are very observant!! Lol I had to go watch the video when you commented and no I just use one finger. I think it’s because my gloves were new there and a bit stiff maybe so you see my other finger move a bit.
I have 2 of those saws but one barrels, trying to adjust them. At first I thought you said it needs more fuel when you open up the exhaust but later when you where running it with that exhaust plate off you said it was too rich and you had to lean it, I want to try it with the plate òff, and what's the difference in the sound between running lean and running rich?
With the exhaust plate off it will most certainly need more fuel. Regardless what I say my saw needs for fuel will not be what your saw needs they all act different. You need to know how to tune a saw regardless of what mods or what saw it is so learn that first or you could risk damaging the engine. If you watch that other video called I love my Poulan I think it talks about another way to open up that exhaust without taking that plate off. The problem with taking it off is when you start bucking big wood it will burn the bark.
@@Indeewoods got that good point about burning the bark yea the plate is made that way for a reason, just got tuning screw driver yesterday which will make it much easier to adjust.
I have a Wildthing.. same powerhead from what I can see. The intake manifold got loose from the head and I ran 'er lean... she's kinda scored and compression is low. Are all the cheap top end kits basically the same?
Ok pretty sure that is just like my first saw I had. The kits for those are cheaper and come with nikasil cylinders and dual ring aluminum pistons vs plated single ring pistons.
Does Husqvarna make these things? I've got a poulan pro 20 in 42cc and it's 3 years old.. but finally starting to smoke on me after use for a half hour the other day.. not sure what it is yet? But was coming from the exhaust.. and wouldn't stay running?
Husqvarna makes them now I believe. It could be several things. Smoking out the exhaust would only be from having to much oil mix in your fuel or a carburetor that is set to rich.
@@Indeewoods ok thanks.. yeah that makes sense being that I did top it off with what little mix was left in my gallon canister.. or was almost empty. it did always do a good job though in the time I've had it.. I know we must take care of these things! to make em last.
The solid mount versions of those stratocharged poulans like the 3314 have a linkage instead of a cable, im not sure if it would be possible to put it on an anti vibe version though
@@joshabrey6693 “try at own risk” lol ya that saw works pretty darn good now considering it has a safety chain skip tooth. I will leave this one as is but hope to find another one to play with down the road.
@@joshabrey6693 and I kind of like that 2 barrel design now. Love to try a solid linkage mod and play with that carb design. I should do a “Stihl MS250 VS Poulan Pro 4218A” lol
It's the elevation, not the screws backing out. As for the air intake those have a lousy air filter system, very cheap. The upper barrel is for air injection, lower is for fuel. Thing is, for a stock saw drop down to a 16" bar with a full complement chain, it'll do far better. You can't do much with cheap equipment.
I checked it after it wasn’t the screws backing out just finiky to tune. Wasn’t the elevation I tested it at similar temps and the same location. I think it’s main issue is the fuel caps don’t vent well on these old Poulan’s so you need to stretch the spring slightly for the needle to seal when it pressures up. I had it running flawless when I sold it. And I tested it for a full day,hot starts,cold starts etc ran great. Yes needs a chain upgrade and you’re right the air filter is not great at all.
I'd suggest before you go ragging on the 4218, try a stihl 250. Slightly larger displacement, it'll make you appreciate the power and anti-vibe of the PP. You really want to study up on "strato" scavenging and how the two carb ports work for that BEFORE butchering things there. I use my 4218 for all the work it can handle, and use a GZ4000 40 cc RedMax for the rest of the limbing. Perceived engine noise level does NOT equate to more power output.
Lol I owned a Stihl MS250 check out my other video’s. It is a much better saw then that PP will ever be. I wasn’t ragging on this PP just saying it was a POS right out of the box compared to what it was when I was done with it. I like the Stihl better but the PP was not that bad. I’m sure everyone has their own preferences. I won’t be butchering anything and I have been reading up on the strato design although I have more to learn. I have a 3416 with the engine/carb set up so I’ll see how that turns out. Thanks for watching.
@@Indeewoods People tend to make rash assumptions, IMO, about various stihls, partly to justify the prices, partly because of the pretty, shiny plastic. Many of their models are in fact dogs. (I like cats.) Compared to the 4218, the 250 series are dogs, but cash cows for the impressionable. I just try to evaluate things objectively, one of the reasons I have a PP2050 still, 9 years later. Some of the biggest stihls are serious under-performers. Pretty, though. Rather than any stihl, I'd go for comparable Dolmar- way better choice, IMO.
Idk I still say Hands down an Stihl MS250 is a much better saw than a PP 4218A. No assumptions for me because the MS250 was my main saw for 3 years and I cut piles and piles of wood with that thing. For 150 bucks more I think the Stihl is worth every penny plus it’s worth more when you sell it. Again though to rach their own. I would buy another MS250 again.
@@Indeewoods No doubt stihl appreciates blind loyalty. Helps to pay for all their advertising. Maybe they'll develop a chainsaw dynamometer someday, so they can put numbers to their pitiful power output of some saws. Like the 250.
@Brent Schneider they seem fine. I went higher in elevation then lower when I was playing with those and the saw ran good both places however when it gets cold any saw will need to be richened up a little especially on the low end.
Like the channel BUT In fact. Drilling holes in the top cover do nothing absolutely nothing All you did was completely bypassed all of the filtering capabilities there is a reason why that flywheel directs air to 1 specific spot Now. You air filter will get dirtier 2x as fast And all you needed to do was remove the jet limiter caps
I find it makes the saw have much better throttle response with holes drilled. The flywheel area is sealed from the air intake I never change anything there. There is a small hole near the flywheel and according to the Poulan engineer I talked to he said the idea was the flywheel would send all the sawdust to the outside and the saw would suck in clean air closer to the flywheel. I find saw dust just gets sucked through that hole so I plugged it off on the 2050/2150 but I think I left it alone on that 4218A. True though that I bypassed the factory design but I’m ok with cleaning the filter more often to gain better throttle response. Fun to discuss all this stuff. 🍻
@@Indeewoods it dont spin on the crank the flywheel is casted on a machined center once they exceed a certain rpm centrifugal force sepperates the 2 and let's it spin just a few degrees and it looses all power I have a few tips for porting if your interested
@@Indeewoods exhaust atdc 102 intake is fine with 2 ports its plenty take the transfer skirts and bevel the edges use red rtv on the case when you put it together red is rated for gas some use grey never tried it never needed to take the intake manifold apart 1/4" hole connect the 2 ports top to bottom from engine side it should be perpendicular to the face your drilling from hard to explain may take a few tries I used a drimmel exhaust I took the sleeve the bolt goes in out and ground one side off while maintaing the strength leave the ends alone and only do the right side as its lined up with the opening in cover you will now need to run 93 octane as it will stay running after you turn it off hope this helps let me know if you find any tricks
There’s so much more to a 2 stroke engine than just what you listed. To much to txt. You could have bad crank seals or a scored piston. You’ll have to verify that.
And your bar and chain is garbage. Either the bar guide rails are not even. Or bent. Or 1 side of the cutters on the chain are filed much better than the others Your kerf (or cut) should be perfectly straight not dog legging to the left or right
IMO OEM bar on these works fine- got hundreds of hours cutting on mine. On my refurb 4218 the chain was crap- notably soft. Replacement too cheap to mention. Done.
, sounds pretty stout for a poulon. I have been watching your channel for awhile now & you definitely know how to hop up a saw & get them to run like a champ. Keep the videos coming. 👍
@CatzAzz Thanks will do. :)
How do I put a carburetor back together
@roybarton4586 U just put the screws in.
Over twenty five years I’ve had two Poulan‘s and they’ve been absolutely bullet proof. The secret that I’ve found, is to give them a good clean and always drain the fuel out each time and always run them till all the residue fuel is used. Then top up the oil bar tank. As a matter of interest, I do this with all my small two stroke engines.
I do the same with my 4 stroke snow blower and log splitter. I also use recreation fuel (non ethanol).
Thanks for the tip. It seems like the gas is hard on the hoses and carberator.
@Steve Paul if it has any ethanol yes it’s hard on lines/check valves and even eats metal if it sits in there long enough.
New lines “should” be better than the old lines as far as resistance to ethanol goes.
I have a wild thing that I modified like you did except for the muffler. Besides enlarging the opening in the cover over the spark arrestor, 33:57 I took the metal tubes where the screws go into the muffler and drilled some holes along the sides of them.
Made a big difference.
@user-ro6fy7ww9h yes that’s another way a subscriber showed me how to open up those mufflers.
Taking that plate right off is the best but it burns the wood if you ate bucking large rounds.
Hey bud I wanna say thanks and echo what you're putting out here on this video. I've got a 5020 and a 4218. Both ran ok but would die after finishing a cut. Plus they were hard to start cold or warm. After opening up the spark plug gap they run like champs. Now they usually start on the first or second pull. I'm very impressed with how well they run now after that simple mod. Thanks for the advice!
@tortillaenthusiast a muffler mod and a full Chisel chain really smartens them up as well.
Letting any engine breath will definitely help. To bad manufacturers have to meet emission standards by strangling their products. I've also found that the Metering Lever, in the Carb, need a bit of adjusting.
I have the same saw and I have done the same to the plug and air cleaner as you did. That alone made it much easier to start and run much better. As far a Poulan goes I also have a Sears Craftsman with a smaller engine that I got as a gift in the early 90's and it has always been a better saw than the Pro. It was also made by Poulan.
@Jim Eckenrode probably a 2050 or 2150 Poulan but branded as Sears? Could be a 2550 as well. Is yours antivivisection?
@@Indeewoods no
What model?
Husqvarna makes Craftsman 42cc and the PP4218A that you have. I have one of each. They are identical. Can't get parts for the Craftsman but you can for the Poulan Pro. I got a Craftsman 42cc where the clutch exploded and the saw was BRAND NEW. Who doesn't take it back? But I don't mind. $50 for the saw 27.50 for the clutch kit and I'll have 2 basically identical saws.
Thanks. My saw has been stalling easily and bogging down drastically.
Did most of what you suggested and it seems to be working great now!!!!
@crowwick7652 right on good to hear. Bogging down is not good at all it means the engine is starving for fuel.
Sometimes a pin hole or crack in a fuel line will cause that other times it’s as simple as a carb adjustment and giving more fuel.
Really the best homeowners saw there is a fair price, not much to go wrong once chain is adjusted and carb screws out a tad
I have high dallor saws but these work great and they get it done ✅
I guess it's a later model but poulan makes a 42 cc that has a steel rod linkage going from the front of the trigger to the carb lever and I like it a lot better than the cable version
Yes those are on the ones that do not have anti vibe.
I have a few a prefer that style as well.
Cool mods i have the same saw on my atv love it . When starting i never ever have used the bulb primer just pull choke starts just as good for me anyway .
Cuts any tree ever ran across the trails been running poulan for at least 6 yrs no complaints it just runs 👍
Ya I think it depends on your temperature and altitude or because you may have had it tuned but the problem is these things are tuned for a broad range so what works at sea level may not work for someone at 5000 feet or someone who only uses theirs in winter vs someone who uses it in summer.
That saw was new when I got it and it never ran quite right but in the end it was a good saw for the price.
I run a little mid 90’s McCulloch which was given to me for “Parts” but with a few little mods it’s a great little bush saw.
Thanks, I picked up the same saw for a hundred bucks from a friend. I've always been a Stihl guy, but it starts good and cuts great. Great info, thanks again, oz
Right on. Ya they are not as terrible as some people make them out to be. It was not great when first started playing around with it but the end result was good.
Is your saw stock or did you do the little mods in the video to it?
I am a Stihl guy also I have six of them (ms250-661 sizes). But at the end of the day when I am dead tired, I grab my Poulan 295 or 4620 to finish up with.
Thanks. I will be using your ideas on this same model saw and a couple of other Poulans after I finish a couple of Husqvarna rebuilds... I think when I drill the holes in the case for the carb, I will put some aluminum window screen inside the case over the holes and melt it into the plastic with a woodburner to see if that helps keep sawdust out... One more thought about the people mentioning taking the tubular sleeves out of the muffler: I could be wrong but it seems that those sleeves probably help keep (too much) heat from transferring through the bolts and back into the cylinder. I may experiment with that at some point because I've been wondering about it for some time.
I bought a Poulan 4218 brand new and it was too lean from the factory. I always have to rich 'em up a bit. Cheers from eastern TN
It’s a must on everyone of them
They run great and start easily afterwards
On the muffler mod just take out the bolt tube and leave it out. Just put the bolt in through the hole the tube was in. Works really good for a mod.
Will have to try that.
I have a 3416 I need to rebuild and it has that same muffler.
Depends on what model Poulan you have. On the 2150/2050’s etc yes it can be done. A Husqvarna 41 sprocket and .325” chain will work but on the 4218A and that style they use a different clutch so it won’t work on those.
I’m trying to find a way to do ot on those but havn’t figured it out yet.
Check out my video with the 2150 it talks about the swap on there.
Made a HUGE difference in the way that saw cuts.
P.S YT keeps deleting my subscribers comments so if you ever post something and notice it disapears just post it again.
It should work on the 2250 ( if those are same clutch as thec2050/2150
But for sure won’t work on the 4218A.
IF the 2250 is just like the 2050/2150 then yes but I haven’t worked on any of the saws you mensioned.
I only used the regular sprocket off the Husky 41 but I looked at the Husky parts diagram and they had a listing for a clutch drum with a rim sprocket.
I wanted to say thank you for the vid...I have just rebuild mine and these tips made mine great...I learned alot and enjoyed watching...thank you
Right on that’s awesome!
I have the red craftsman version of that saw, it's the exact same machine. I have had it for a long time and never really run it. The word I would use to describe it is lazy... I can totally see those mods waking it up. I took the stock filter out and cut a foam one for it out of a Briggs pre filter, that quite a difference. It was tuned poorly from the factory and was a pig until I tuned it just lately. It may get the same port job as my 2150. The trick to opening that exhaust up without cutting the slots is getting a short bolt for one mounting hole and you remove one of the cylinders that the exhaust bolts go through and put the bolt in through the open hole. The newer 2150s have the same design and it really opens it up no cutting. I made an Iron Horse pipe for the 2150 and it absolutely rocks.
Cool! Ya they are under rated for sure. Got some videos coming up on that PM425AV same as the MAC3200,3818 etc. Porting that little one.
Remove just one of the cylinders , or both?
@@dooberoso the trick is to pull one of them, tune it and try it. Both may be too much. I pulled one on the first 2150 I ported for my stepson and it's right on the money.
I would only do the one on the left side of the saw by the exhaust deflector.
If you do the other one closer to the chain the exhaust will shoot straight out and if yiu are cutting bigger wood it’ll burn the bark.
@@Indeewoods %100 the best plan!
Since I turned 70, started wearing chaps.
Not a bad idea at all.
The easiest muffler mod on these is to remove the two sleeves in the middle of the muffler that the attachment bolts go through. They will pop right out with a flat head screwdriver. Just that alone opens it up enough to make a big difference in power.
It does but then it burns the wood if you are bucking up bigger stuff.
I ended up drilling holes in the left tube plus ground the opening bigger and it really woke it up good.
The Muffler modded 42cc Wild Thing I have runs pretty good.
Hipa has all the parts I need for it and there really just as good as other big name brands
the whole thing with the intake is that the flywheel fan blow through and precleans the air
also you may have robbed the cylinder from proper cooling as well
I'm all about mods so long as they don't compromise the saw!!
There is a divider between the intake and where it blows over the fins so it can’t rob from the cooling.
This system doesn’t preclean the air you are thinking of Jonsered “turbo style system. These simply just blow air over the engine not in the carb area then there is a little hole near the flywheel where the intake is supposed to suck “fresh” air but it’s also heated air and a tiny opening for an intake. I usually tape that right off on these saws and have it suck air from the cover.
I get way less saw dust in the carb area with that hole sealed off. Not sure if I did it on this saw though but have done it to the 20/2150’s.
Never put it away wet. Drain and then run out of fuel out. Get a high quality spark plug, air filter. And don't use the pre mixed fuel crap.
If have access use aviation fuel, even make your own ethanol free fuel, lots videos how to do that.
@Dylan Owens thanks for the advice. Good tips for sure.
New to your channel and have subscribed - really enjoy the content. Thanks for sharing these tips on this Poulan saw - I’m currently running this exact saw and will keep this info in mind. Cheers
Cool right on! Thanks for the sub and ya those little Poulan’s are not to bad with a little work.
I know exactly what you mean about how it burbbles or whatever a little bit its like it takes a slight second to rev when you pull the trigger.. if that makes sense haha.. its almost a tad slow to react or something but i made my own exahust for it and now its a totally different beast haha for 42cc's haha. The little poulan pro 260 I got given to me when I was young I still own and it fires up every single time in 2 pulls no issues at all and I have bigger saws like the husky g395xp and it takes 3 or 4 pulls when cold to fire but that little poulan takes 2 pulls at most and I keep it in my main offroad recovery truck in a saw case in the toolbox and my guys love it and I did an exhaust mod on it and it woke it up like it's a totally different saw :) my guys actually asked me if I did a bore or something haha but it's completely stock same piston it's had since I got it back in the late 90s haha its a 1995 model I believe :)
My Wild Thing 2375 has been great too.
We don’t really have trees that big, most are misquite trees and 12 inches is pretty much max where I live, most are 6/8 inches and a 18 bar is plenty wide 42 cc poulan saw😊
Excellent video man you did a good job I appreciate it all your tips and everything thank you for the video
I have a Mculloch 4218 I think it's a rebranded Poulan ,mine has this weird tool free chain tensioner which broke so I modified it ,it's a good powerful saw ,lightweight and very low vibration .
Yes I believe they did come under the McCulloch name.
I think I have that same saw you were talking about but it’s a Poulan pro.
I really like that chain adjuster super fast/easy.
@@Indeewoods Mine wouldn't stay tensioned and it broke so I made screw arrangement works great now .
Ah I see you got r done.
Older wild things and 4016 covers will fit. My 4218 had the 90° tensioner but it broke
(undersized). Wild thing cover to the rescue!
Love the dog!
Thanks John! :)
Quick and easy muffler mod. Remove spark arestor screen. 2 flair or cut the flap on the spark arestor cover for more flow. Remove the right hand muffler bolt tube from the muffler. replace bolt. Appx.30% more flow.
Then do the air filter mods.
Wonder how dimples on top of piston would do... (like "speed of air" diesel piston treament)
Somebody try it.
I had no problems with poulan 4218a easier to start then my stihl ms271
You got that right!
“Always waiting to play ball...” that’s exactly how my wrenching partner is too! I wouldn’t trade her for anything though, she’s better than any human I know.
I don’t doubt that! It’s easy to see why they became mans best friend.
A human being can learn a lot from these furry little creatures called dogs. 🐕
The muffler came loose on mine. I noticed a dramatic power increase. Why !!! I thought two-cycle engines needed a "timed" "tuned" back pressure from the exhaust.
They also need less restriction.
The problem I have with these is the chain and clutch getting jammed up with sawdust and twigs and if you don't stop and clean it out before you continue things get hot fast and then the chain stops moving freely. Good for short duty cycles I guess.
Interesting. I’ve cut a lot of wood with that style chainsaw and never had an issue but maybe it’s because we only have softwood here?
The strato crab is a different animal. I have them on both 3800 and it takes time to get it right. The muffler will come apart, by pulling the flange back, and pinch it back together. In in stead of holes in the intake for carb, cut one long hole on top, and 3 small holes son the bottom.
The amount of air intake should be 35- 40% less than the out let. With some back pressure.
Do not port these saws. They will not take it. I tried and the fly wheel came apart, and parts just missed my head. 😵💫
You got that right on these carbs! It took me a while to figure them out but I had that 4218A running like a top when I sold it. Hot start, cold start etc it ran flawless.
As for the intake I didn’t want to hack it up to much as I was selling it. Same with the muffler.
Ya I keep hearing about these flywheels I might have to wear a full face helmet if I port one lol.
That’s twice now I heard about the flywheels coming apart.
I think I heard that the one without the A on the end has a mechanical carb linkage. Probably old and gone now.
The ones that are non antivibe have the linkage so you’re probably right.
the thing I hate most about Poulin chainsaws is the trigger system they always feel a little sticky and its because how they make their throttle with that curve
I hear ya.
That is not a dual barrel carb, the top barrel is for the throttle and the bottom barrel is for the choke, iv always had problems with that carb
No the top barrel is for extra air the bottom barrel is just a regular carb with a choke.
These carbs are famous for being hard to tune but i’ve figured out why.
I have another 3416 I need to rebuild and it has this same carb.
I think I’ll do a video on how to tune them because once they ate set right they really work good but I had problems with mine until I figured them out.
I use these all the time, they hold up good if you keep them serviced 😊
@philliphall5198 yep parts are plenty full and cheap for them as well
Poulan…… poulan for lyyyyyyyfe
The butterfly on the bottom is the choke.
Not sure what you are asking me here.
I did something along these lines, I just drilled through the front cover twice. Later I plan on taking to weld shop and weld two pipes on. Performance is way way better, just rips through wood now. Leave it to democrats to regulate crap, ruins everything, I want firewood, my chimney will polute way more than my damn chainsaw. Because of EPA regs these saws just can't breath. Used to be mine, but not any more.
Haha yep they choke them right up.
@@Indeewoods I love eating Pistons for breakfast
Try some heat shrink on the lever pin to open the top barrel faster
@sterlingbaker2257 I was able to get something on there a piece of plastic but it didn’t change anything. At the time I didn’t know how the strato engines worked but I think it just ads more air later than with in intake charge.
Probably because of the amount of air it can get through it with the cover mod and the exhaust mod is why it needed a lot more plug gap if I had to make an educated guess haha those two mods alone allow it to breathe 100% better than they do stock.. 😀 I did the same mods to my weed eater also and it woke up a lot just like the poulan pro 260 saw I have did 😀
Won’t take long to trim your lawn now lol.
Just as a heads up..that lower "barrel" is solely for choke. Not throttle.
@Mark Gosselin that is incorrect. The bottom “barrel” as you call it is the actual carburetor like on any other saw and also includes the choke. The top simply adds air after the slots on the piston line up with the intake open for that extra air. It has it’s own throttle control that only opens at 3/4 throttle.
@@Indeewoods you're wrong. Sorry
@@Indeewoods top portion is the main carb. The bottom is the portion screwed onto the carb for the choke and has NOTHING to do with throttle. Nothing.
@Mark Gosselin well not on that particular saw on that particular video it’s not and if it’s the way you say it is then you must have some oddball system that I’ve never seen before. All you have to do is go onto Amazon and bring up a picture of it and it quite clearly shows that the bottom is the carb that holds the metering lever the diaphragms just like any other carb on any chainsaw.
I’ve worked on several of these two barrel designs I bored the carbs and everything so I know them quite well I’m not sure what model you’re talking about but it’s not the ones that I have.
The top barrel is not directly attached to the bottom carb it simply adds air and nothing else like I already mention.
You’ll have to do a video showing the carb if you have one that’s different than all of these I would love to see it.
These saws are definitely choked up they need a lot more air. Mine idols erratic too, and lean! What Husqvarna engine do these saws use?
@Curtis I don’t know if Husky uses that engine or if they have their own.
At the very least I would suspect they’d have their own porting specs.
@@Indeewoods gotcha! Appreciate the info 👍👍
I have one very close to that one...maybe newer Idk...but it's a poulan pro 42...but it's made by husqvarna...idk if they all are...but mine had husqvarna baging all over inside the plastic cover..even the spark plug says husqvarna
They used to be two different companies then Husky bought them out.
@@Indeewoods I just bought a used but like new husqvarna 45 today...runs amazing
Awesome
What fuel ratio are you running? Just curious, I just bought a Poulan 42/18 and it calls for 50:1. Also does yours leak a lot of bar oil? If so, how can I slow it down? Mine leaks a lot of bar oil
@Gary Allen it should be 40:1 and if not make it 40:1. That’s the best all around mix ratio for these saws.
Mine never leaked a drop if yours is it is most likely the bar oiler line came off or has a pin hole in it.
@@Indeewoods That's what I wanted to run. I run 40:1 True-fuel in my trimmers I wanted to wait and get your thoughts.Whats your opinion on Canned fuel? You definitely know your way around a saw. Thank you so much for responding to my comment, you got me as a sub. I've been checking out your videos and definitely know your shit.
@Gary Allen I don’t use the canned fuel. Would be to expensive for the amount I use saws but it’s good stuff especially for someone who only uses a saw a few times a year.
And thanks I wouldn’t say I’m an expert with saws but I know enough to get me by for sure. Thanks for the sub and thanks for watching.
@@Indeewoods I got the bar oil leak fixed, the metal cover that goes over the oiler wasn't on properly. I took the cover off and realigned it and tightened the bar cover nuts and that solved the issue. Thanks for thoughts on the oiler hose, if not for that I probably wouldn't have checked it out as good as I did. Awesome vids keep them coming
@Gary Allen right on glad you got it fixed.
Did you ever change your sprocket out to the .325? I have a spare 325 bar and chain I'd love to stick on my 4218
No I didn’t On that saw.
Start with a ngk spark plug on all 2 cycles engines
It’s got one….came with it from factory.
That peace of plastic on the throttle that moves the butterfly on the top barrel of the carb has broken on mine, i can't find that part so now i got a 200 dollar piece of crap that won't run.
Do the aftermarket carbs come with them? I’m sure you could fab one out of metal if there are no other options.
Did you contact Poulan/Husqvarna see if they can get it?
Dead calm in the woods sometimes means you got something watching you that you really rather not be. There's some pretty spooky things out there.
Well must be someone watching me the odd time then lol
I hear you. Good video!
Turn your volume up
I will do that on the next video.
I noticed you use two fingers on the gas trigger when your reving it up?
You are very observant!! Lol
I had to go watch the video when you commented and no I just use one finger. I think it’s because my gloves were new there and a bit stiff maybe so you see my other finger move a bit.
Mine will sometimes start and run for 30 seconds then die what’s the problem you think
Could be a few different things. Scored piston, bad diaphrams,pin hole in fuel lines,plugged fuel filter etc etc.
Just change out carb and if it does it again Losen fuel cap a tad and see
I have 2 of those saws but one barrels, trying to adjust them. At first I thought you said it needs more fuel when you open up the exhaust but later when you where running it with that exhaust plate off you said it was too rich and you had to lean it, I want to try it with the plate òff, and what's the difference in the sound between running lean and running rich?
With the exhaust plate off it will most certainly need more fuel. Regardless what I say my saw needs for fuel will not be what your saw needs they all act different. You need to know how to tune a saw regardless of what mods or what saw it is so learn that first or you could risk damaging the engine.
If you watch that other video called I love my Poulan I think it talks about another way to open up that exhaust without taking that plate off.
The problem with taking it off is when you start bucking big wood it will burn the bark.
@@Indeewoods got that good point about burning the bark yea the plate is made that way for a reason, just got tuning screw driver yesterday which will make it much easier to adjust.
I have a Wildthing.. same powerhead from what I can see. The intake manifold got loose from the head and I ran 'er lean... she's kinda scored and compression is low. Are all the cheap top end kits basically the same?
For that strato style 2 barrel engine yes. Wildthing used two different style engines. Strato like the one in this vid and non strato.
@@Indeewoods mine is single throat carb, model 2375
Ok pretty sure that is just like my first saw I had. The kits for those are cheaper and come with nikasil cylinders and dual ring aluminum pistons vs plated single ring pistons.
Does Husqvarna make these things? I've got a poulan pro 20 in 42cc and it's 3 years old.. but finally starting to smoke on me after use for a half hour the other day.. not sure what it is yet? But was coming from the exhaust.. and wouldn't stay running?
Ran fine before that.. I refueled and then it started smoking and stalling.
Husqvarna makes them now I believe.
It could be several things.
Smoking out the exhaust would only be from having to much oil mix in your fuel or a carburetor that is set to rich.
@@Indeewoods ok thanks.. yeah that makes sense being that I did top it off with what little mix was left in my gallon canister.. or was almost empty. it did always do a good job though in the time I've had it.. I know we must take care of these things! to make em last.
Possibly the fuel oil mixture or old fuel, I found out that after a month I dump all the old fuel
The solid mount versions of those stratocharged poulans like the 3314 have a linkage instead of a cable, im not sure if it would be possible to put it on an anti vibe version though
That’s good to know. I will have to look into that. I am getting used to the cable but just prefer the solid linkage.
@@Indeewoods no problem! Im gonna try your trick with the strato throttle body on my ported one and see if it picks up any throttle response
@@joshabrey6693 “try at own risk” lol ya that saw works pretty darn good now considering it has a safety chain skip tooth.
I will leave this one as is but hope to find another one to play with down the road.
@@joshabrey6693 and I kind of like that 2 barrel design now. Love to try a solid linkage mod and play with that carb design.
I should do a “Stihl MS250 VS Poulan Pro 4218A” lol
@@Indeewoods theyre a really good design! Cuts like crazy
It's the elevation, not the screws backing out. As for the air intake those have a lousy air filter system, very cheap. The upper barrel is for air injection, lower is for fuel. Thing is, for a stock saw drop down to a 16" bar with a full complement chain, it'll do far better. You can't do much with cheap equipment.
I checked it after it wasn’t the screws backing out just finiky to tune.
Wasn’t the elevation I tested it at similar temps and the same location.
I think it’s main issue is the fuel caps don’t vent well on these old Poulan’s so you need to stretch the spring slightly for the needle to seal when it pressures up.
I had it running flawless when I sold it.
And I tested it for a full day,hot starts,cold starts etc ran great.
Yes needs a chain upgrade and you’re right the air filter is not great at all.
I'd suggest before you go ragging on the 4218, try a stihl 250. Slightly larger displacement, it'll make you appreciate the power and anti-vibe of the PP. You really want to study up on "strato" scavenging and how the two carb ports work for that BEFORE butchering things there. I use my 4218 for all the work it can handle, and use a GZ4000 40 cc RedMax for the rest of the limbing. Perceived engine noise level does NOT equate to more power output.
Lol I owned a Stihl MS250 check out my other video’s. It is a much better saw then that PP will ever be.
I wasn’t ragging on this PP just saying it was a POS right out of the box compared to what it was when I was done with it.
I like the Stihl better but the PP was not that bad. I’m sure everyone has their own preferences.
I won’t be butchering anything and I have been reading up on the strato design although I have more to learn.
I have a 3416 with the engine/carb set up so I’ll see how that turns out.
Thanks for watching.
@@Indeewoods People tend to make rash assumptions, IMO, about various stihls, partly to justify the prices, partly because of the pretty, shiny plastic. Many of their models are in fact dogs. (I like cats.) Compared to the 4218, the 250 series are dogs, but cash cows for the impressionable. I just try to evaluate things objectively, one of the reasons I have a PP2050 still, 9 years later. Some of the biggest stihls are serious under-performers. Pretty, though. Rather than any stihl, I'd go for comparable Dolmar- way better choice, IMO.
Idk I still say Hands down an Stihl MS250 is a much better saw than a PP 4218A. No assumptions for me because the MS250 was my main saw for 3 years and I cut piles and piles of wood with that thing. For 150 bucks more I think the Stihl is worth every penny plus it’s worth more when you sell it.
Again though to rach their own.
I would buy another MS250 again.
@@Indeewoods No doubt stihl appreciates blind loyalty. Helps to pay for all their advertising. Maybe they'll develop a chainsaw dynamometer someday, so they can put numbers to their pitiful power output of some saws. Like the 250.
Lol you have a Stihl chainsaw in your profile picture where’s the PP?
No idea how your PP 4218A makes more power than an MS250...
In your experience do they hold a tune well ince set
@Brent Schneider say again? Hold a tune where?
Sorry the carburetor. Do they typically stay once set good or do you constantly have to adjust it. Thanks
@Brent Schneider they seem fine. I went higher in elevation then lower when I was playing with those and the saw ran good both places however when it gets cold any saw will need to be richened up a little especially on the low end.
Nise jop men 👍
Drilled holes for ? Cooling?
In the intake cover or exhaust?
You keep calling it a 2 bbl. But I think it's the bottom one is actually the choke and not the 2nd bbl. Or primary bbl. either
There is a choke on the bottom barrel yes but the bottom part is just a regular carb the top barrel just flows air nothing else.
I will pay u for mods bro….?
Like the channel
BUT
In fact. Drilling holes in the top cover do nothing absolutely nothing
All you did was completely bypassed all of the filtering capabilities there is a reason why that flywheel directs air to 1 specific spot
Now. You air filter will get dirtier 2x as fast
And all you needed to do was remove the jet limiter caps
I find it makes the saw have much better throttle response with holes drilled. The flywheel area is sealed from the air intake I never change anything there. There is a small hole near the flywheel and according to the Poulan engineer I talked to he said the idea was the flywheel would send all the sawdust to the outside and the saw would suck in clean air closer to the flywheel. I find saw dust just gets sucked through that hole so I plugged it off on the 2050/2150 but I think I left it alone on that 4218A.
True though that I bypassed the factory design but I’m ok with cleaning the filter more often to gain better throttle response.
Fun to discuss all this stuff. 🍻
get a mic... we can barely hear you then the saw blasts us out.
Don't port it the flywheel can't handle it i tried 5 times they are nasty until the magneto spins on the center core
Maybe I’ll have to red loctite the Fly Wheel on? Lol
Good to know I’ll watch for that.
@@Indeewoods it dont spin on the crank the flywheel is casted on a machined center once they exceed a certain rpm centrifugal force sepperates the 2 and let's it spin just a few degrees and it looses all power I have a few tips for porting if your interested
Oh I see. Ya lets hear your tips. These little homeowner Poulan’s need all the help they can get.
@@Indeewoods exhaust atdc 102 intake is fine with 2 ports its plenty take the transfer skirts and bevel the edges use red rtv on the case when you put it together red is rated for gas some use grey never tried it never needed to take the intake manifold apart 1/4" hole connect the 2 ports top to bottom from engine side it should be perpendicular to the face your drilling from hard to explain may take a few tries I used a drimmel exhaust I took the sleeve the bolt goes in out and ground one side off while maintaing the strength leave the ends alone and only do the right side as its lined up with the opening in cover you will now need to run 93 octane as it will stay running after you turn it off hope this helps let me know if you find any tricks
I think you need to show is a video of that. Sounds like some good mods.
They are pieces of crap. New carburetor , gas lines, spark plug, filter . Started one day and then not again
Ya some people struggle with them but I don’t seem to have many issues with them.
@@Indeewoods any advice is helpful? What else is there to change?
There’s so much more to a 2 stroke engine than just what you listed. To much to txt.
You could have bad crank seals or a scored piston. You’ll have to verify that.
Did you put the fuel lines in the right place? I found a PP4128AVX in the trash. The owner had the fuel lines in the wrong place
That’s probably what happened. Fuel lines backwards on the primer.
And your bar and chain is garbage. Either the bar guide rails are not even. Or bent. Or 1 side of the cutters on the chain are filed much better than the others
Your kerf (or cut) should be perfectly straight not dog legging to the left or right
You are right and yes was a dull chain.
IMO OEM bar on these works fine- got hundreds of hours cutting on mine. On my refurb 4218 the chain was crap- notably soft. Replacement too cheap to mention. Done.
Right on. Ya back when this video was taken I didn’t use a raker gauge and that makes a big difference on cutting as well I’ve found.