Good vid presentation man. I dont have a log splitter but...well put together, good audio comparisons...good job. I was gpin through old vid archives last week and found a video of the Talon doin some rips...lol.
My thought as you mated the coupler was that I would have probably split the difference and moved the engine part, and the pump part, of the coupler, to give more mating surface (equal on both the engine shaft, and the pump shaft). I didn't notice if the thicknesses of the replacement parts were the same as the original, and that might make the total height of the coupler different, which would not be where the wear/dirt ring on the engine shaft would be. Hard to believe that's a 15 year old splitter.....it shows that you really take care of your equipment.
Thanks, I was going to do that but the main reason I kept the engine shaft flush to the coupler was the new spider didn't have a though hole. It only had a recess on the one side. I should have taken a close up shot of both couplers so everyone could see.
@@SABsGarage It's obviously working, and the capped hole in the spider would limit your options on centering it between the engine shaft and the pump shaft, I guess.
Alrighty then! My spider bushing is shot bigtime! I just watched your video and I am getting ready to replace my spider bushing. My question is kind of similar to the Powrguy. Instead of loosening the set screws, could I loosen (but not remove) the 3 engine mounting bolts, put spacers to raise the engine just enough to get the new Spider Bushing in place, remove my spacers and tighten my engine bolts? I have never done this before, so I am trying to keep it as simple as possible!
It may be possible that doing that may get you high enough to get the spider out, not sure though. I am thinking you have to get it roughly 1-1.5" high to get the spider out so not sure if the engine bolts are long enough. I am curious though, I know one thing... When I go to do this again I will just take the engine off, slide the new spider in then put the engine back on. Seems like it would be faster. Keep me posted if raising the engine will give you enough room to get the spider out. Good luck!
@@SABsGarage I will let you know next week. I just ordered a new Spider Bushing and it isn't getting to my house until Tuesday. If my way doesn't work, I was just going to loosen the set screw on the lower Coupler and not even mess with the coupler on the engine shaft. I will let you know what I find!
@@SABsGarage So my coupler came in and here's what I did. I loosened the lower coupler set screw and slid the lower coupler down. Then I loosened the 3 engine mounting bolts so that each one was only holding by about 2 complete turns. Using 2 box end wrenches (A 17 Metric and an 11/16 Standard) I lifted the engine and slid the wrenches under as spacers. This allowed me to have plenty of room to slide the new Spider Bushing in place. Using a large screwdriver, I raised the lower coupler and lined it up with the Engine Coupler. Then I removed the 2 box end wrenches, tightened the 3 Engine Bolts, and after verifying the lower coupler was seated as high as I could get it, tightened the lower coupler set screw. If I could attach a picture, I would, but I am not sure how to do that. Thanks for your help!
@SABsGarage We just pulled the engine off on ours since we needed a new engine anyway and replaced the bushing from the top. I did learn from you that you dont have to have a bushing with the hole in the center of the bushing. That bushing you used actually might be stronger without the hole in it since there is more bushing material without the hole. That might make it stronger. Just a thought?
Random question you may or may not be able to help with....MTD 25 ton splitter. Bought new spider gear bushing from MTD but it doesn't fit. MTD only had one part listed. Did these bushings change at some point recently?
I have only seen the one size on the splitters I worked on but I know LoveJoy makes all different size couplers and spiders. Maybe look their website or McMaster-carr's site and match dimensions? That's about all the advice I could give, sorry. Hope you find something that will work.
@@SABsGarage thanks for the response. After a bit of digging i did find a second option with MTD. Unfortunately I bought my splitter used and the model number sticker is worn off so i'm half guessing. Best I can tell, they only offered two spider gears, the second looking more like what i pulled out of the splitter (based on pic which may not be accurate). Either way, thank you for the response
After spider is replaced and the pump coupler is moved up to the motor coupler, it looks like they butt up to each other. Is there suppose to be a small gap (.02) between the two ? Any negative repercussions either way ? I'm going to try this and if there is a way to screw it up, I'll find it.
I need to replace mine now. This is a tremendous help 👍🏻
Good vid presentation man. I dont have a log splitter but...well put together, good audio comparisons...good job. I was gpin through old vid archives last week and found a video of the Talon doin some rips...lol.
Thanks man, you video's always look good too! Would be cool to se those vid's of the talon... It's been a while and was a fun car to play with.
Good easy to understand video,,, tnx ....
Thanks, mine just went south, now I at least feel confident to give it a try
My thought as you mated the coupler was that I would have probably split the difference and moved the engine part, and the pump part, of the coupler, to give more mating surface (equal on both the engine shaft, and the pump shaft). I didn't notice if the thicknesses of the replacement parts were the same as the original, and that might make the total height of the coupler different, which would not be where the wear/dirt ring on the engine shaft would be. Hard to believe that's a 15 year old splitter.....it shows that you really take care of your equipment.
Thanks, I was going to do that but the main reason I kept the engine shaft flush to the coupler was the new spider didn't have a though hole. It only had a recess on the one side. I should have taken a close up shot of both couplers so everyone could see.
@@SABsGarage It's obviously working, and the capped hole in the spider would limit your options on centering it between the engine shaft and the pump shaft, I guess.
Alrighty then! My spider bushing is shot bigtime! I just watched your video and I am getting ready to replace my spider bushing. My question is kind of similar to the Powrguy. Instead of loosening the set screws, could I loosen (but not remove) the 3 engine mounting bolts, put spacers to raise the engine just enough to get the new Spider Bushing in place, remove my spacers and tighten my engine bolts?
I have never done this before, so I am trying to keep it as simple as possible!
It may be possible that doing that may get you high enough to get the spider out, not sure though. I am thinking you have to get it roughly 1-1.5" high to get the spider out so not sure if the engine bolts are long enough. I am curious though, I know one thing... When I go to do this again I will just take the engine off, slide the new spider in then put the engine back on. Seems like it would be faster. Keep me posted if raising the engine will give you enough room to get the spider out. Good luck!
@@SABsGarage I will let you know next week. I just ordered a new Spider Bushing and it isn't getting to my house until Tuesday. If my way doesn't work, I was just going to loosen the set screw on the lower Coupler and not even mess with the coupler on the engine shaft. I will let you know what I find!
@@SABsGarage So my coupler came in and here's what I did. I loosened the lower coupler set screw and slid the lower coupler down. Then I loosened the 3 engine mounting bolts so that each one was only holding by about 2 complete turns. Using 2 box end wrenches (A 17 Metric and an 11/16 Standard) I lifted the engine and slid the wrenches under as spacers. This allowed me to have plenty of room to slide the new Spider Bushing in place. Using a large screwdriver, I raised the lower coupler and lined it up with the Engine Coupler. Then I removed the 2 box end wrenches, tightened the 3 Engine Bolts, and after verifying the lower coupler was seated as high as I could get it, tightened the lower coupler set screw. If I could attach a picture, I would, but I am not sure how to do that. Thanks for your help!
@SABsGarage We just pulled the engine off on ours since we needed a new engine anyway and replaced the bushing from the top. I did learn from you that you dont have to have a bushing with the hole in the center of the bushing. That bushing you used actually might be stronger without the hole in it since there is more bushing material without the hole. That might make it stronger. Just a thought?
Random question you may or may not be able to help with....MTD 25 ton splitter. Bought new spider gear bushing from MTD but it doesn't fit. MTD only had one part listed. Did these bushings change at some point recently?
I have only seen the one size on the splitters I worked on but I know LoveJoy makes all different size couplers and spiders. Maybe look their website or McMaster-carr's site and match dimensions? That's about all the advice I could give, sorry. Hope you find something that will work.
@@SABsGarage thanks for the response. After a bit of digging i did find a second option with MTD. Unfortunately I bought my splitter used and the model number sticker is worn off so i'm half guessing. Best I can tell, they only offered two spider gears, the second looking more like what i pulled out of the splitter (based on pic which may not be accurate). Either way, thank you for the response
After spider is replaced and the pump coupler is moved up to the motor coupler, it looks like they butt up to each other. Is there suppose to be a small gap (.02) between the two ? Any negative repercussions either way ? I'm going to try this and if there is a way to screw it up, I'll find it.
Yeah there should be a small gap, if tight it may wear the coupler a little faster.