One day you're gonna get super powers from getting shocked by one of these things. VHS tapes will demagnetize as you walk by. Floppy discs will ERASE in your presence.
14:42 use plastic screwdrivers to make adjustments instead of metal. Sometimes those trim pots can heat up a metal screwdriver really quick - for example if there's a ferrite slug that's in a coil. Plus you don't need to have something conductive, while poking in those adjustment holes.
@@qwertykeyboard5901Yup, anything is better than using a a metal screwdriver. When I was a kid and working on electronics but couldn't afford plastic screwdrivers, I used to take a pocket knife and carve down a bamboo skewer into a little wooden screwdriver. They didn't last long, but it wouldn't throw off your adjustment and you can't get shocked.
Given its vintage and the fact it's an RF-only set, it probably has a live chassis (the set doesn't have an isolating mains transformer so the chassis is at mains potential). So yes, it's dangerous to work on these without an external isolating transformer or at least gloves. Especially in 240V countries :-).
My Toshiba portable TV of late 1980th (I recapped it yesterday) also runs on rectified mains at its GND lines. The RF jack is coupled by 3 small capacitors. Decades ago I installed a small (music light) trafo to install a safe audio output.
DON'T take that high voltage cap off the CRT without the special tool they show. That is a coaxial HV lead where the 20kv HV is the shield and the 5kv focus is the center. If the cap is not removed properly, the glass to metal seal around the connector will crack and you will get a slow air leak which will quickly ruin the CRT. Sony had a big problem with these in the early 1980s and soon abandoned that design.
@@mariokart8715 I'm not aware of any recall. They just put out a bulletin to use the proper tool which was just a flat plastic piece that retracted the contacts from the socket. This was not a safety or engineering defect.
I take it only off when I need to (unless an ancient TV has no suction cup on a bare metal tine). Highvoltage in the CRT normally sits there and won't bite unless you accidentally pull that cable out.
I remember that now. People on the bench kept doing the normal practice while an evangelistic sony cult following was continually fighting a losing battle
I am going to say two obvious things, first use and ungrounded floating isolation transformer when working on older CRTs like this to prevent some of the shock risks and lastly use plastic adjustment tools always. Don't stick metal screwdrivers in the CRT, also a metal screwdriver is more likely to make it easier to break an old pot.
Insulation trafos are needed if you connect something grounded (e.g. tube oscilloscope). In real life (unless you stand in a puddle or lean on a faucet or radiator) the dangerous mains shocks are normally caused with both hands, so trafo won't help. Hence wear gloves or only use one hand at a time.
I was slightly nervous as you were waving the front fascia close to the tube base, in the middle of the tube base connector (on the tube) sits a tiny glass nipple if you accidently knock it the screen is finished as it will make a hissing sound as the vacuum tube fills with air! I used to repair similar stuff here in the UK back in the 80s. Some of the larger monitor style Sony screens of that era had glass front covers. I hated TV repairs due to getting shocks here in the UK on 250v at the time so I quickly moved on to audio and vcr repairs.
@@MikinessAnalog lol yes we did. Especially if you were poor. Had both those preset wheel+button tvs and the older rotary tuners growing up and im in my early 30s
17:40 - not really down to the age of the tuner, they realised that people who used portable TVs were less critical of picture and sound quality due to smaller screen and speaker so they took liberties and cut costs to price competitively.
2:32 - That is not a heavy CRT, I have a 88KG 460i CRT that is 60hz and is 16:9 ratio, THAT is heavier than I have ever been....lol Yet I managed to lift it in my 20s about 50 metres, If I tried that now, RIP my back for 3weeks at least!!! This TV still works, last used it 30mins ago in fact with a HiFi VHS tape single. Metallica Hero of the Day VHS single. Not CD single or Cassette single VHS single!
CRTs can kill you. High voltages all over inside of set. RGB drive voltages can be upto 500 volts. A flyback you can see up toin extreme cases around 50,000 volts! If the rubber boot is cracked it will leak in to you if you get near it. Arck will jump in to you if you are not careful. They always say to work with one hand behind your back to prevent high voltage from jumping across your heart. That will kill you! They make plastic adjustment drivers to adjust RGB gun voltages. These are some of the reasons that they inform you to havwe a certified technition work on these types of sets. Back in the days they had the correct tools to service sets like that one. All CRTs are the same. Color ones are worse to work on. Voltages are higher and more of them. Remember, One hand behind back or better yet in pocket.
Not the 30KV are most deadly, but few hundred volt at about 1A, those lurk everywhere in CRT power supplies and mains connections. A CRT is a glass capacitor that stores highvoltage (that 30KV under the suction cup) also when off. Most dangerous of touching it is that you will accidentally shatter the tube and so (particularly with 1950/60th TVs) die of the shards from a glass handgranade.
⚡ *Bzzzttt!* Yeah, they weren't kidding about the *high voltage* stuff! Be very careful working around a CRT, as there are still high voltages present even with the power unplugged.
Just curious: why pass the SNES through an external RF modulator instead of just using the RF Out port on the back? you could just use an RCA to Coax adapter to plug it in directly and it'll work fine
Smh...If you're going to clean these old sets up,invest in a high voltage probe so you can discharge the picture tube for disassembly!The little red box is a called a high voltage block!Most manufacturers had the G-2 and the focus on the back of the flyback itself.Sony thought it was more cost practical to have a separate block for the convergence for correction errors!Sony TV's were way over engineered,and we used to poke jokes at them all the time about how half the parts could be thrown away and the TV would still work! 😂 The best TV for the time was still the Zenith's and the RCA's.
My Toshiba portable from late 1980th has only one singlesided PCB with barely unneeded parts. There seems to be not even degaussing nor dynamic convergence. But its live chassis hangs directly on rectified mains, so I needed a small trafo to safely add an audio output.
Super Cool Video, But Sorry, VHF is not a frequency, but a band, for Me its not even a band, but a spectrum bandwith right there with HF , UHF and all others, Frequency is specific number like 466.047MHz, But damn. I feel so stupid, Remembered that i got ton of these crts, Brand new and i just tossed them in a bin, it was 10 years ago, but still, they all where ussr made.
What's REALLY dangerous is grabbing something with a current above 10mA. That's when you get into the level that can make your muscles freeze and unable to let go.
Beatiful TV, definitely a keeper. If you are into the classic Sony's I would suggest the KX models as they are part of the Profeel family and have better tubes ++. Glad you are still breathing 😂
15:36 ALL CRTs have fairly light phosphors. You just don’t notice it on most of them because the gray filter is often bonded directly to the face of the tube, and some use tinted glass instead (or in addition to the laminated filter). Any CRT with an anti-glare (satin) surface has a film bonded to the surface.
Jesus. I feel like my 20" Phillips is going to kill me. I am terrified to remove the anode cap. When I open it up, I can hear it. It has been unplugged for almost two years now. My two JVC's play nice as far as I can tell.
You need to make a CRT discharge cable from a flat sheetmetal connected to a cable with metal clip to the outer CRT layer/springs (that's the 2nd pole) and another cable (in Germany prongless Schuko plug) to the socket earth pin. Discharging is safe (only do not damage the glass or its connector when pushing the sheetmetal under the suction cup).
I bought the same exact model at a garage sale earlier this year for $5 😊It doesn't have the plastic screen cover though, I'm pretty sure the tv is meant for use in a kitchen, I remember adrian black had a video with the same tv when I was looking into it after buying.
you know you can inject directly R.G.B signals into the input instead of going through the tuner input, which is less absurd than using - in the console, RGB ( the SNES PAL have RGB output) into composite video > UHF > reconversion in the TV to RGB like, some screw-in DB15 plug on the rear, I would totally do something like that.
Dissconnect the telescopic antenna, it gets ths. "Snow" for You. If You dont use it, Disconnect it becsuse the set is trying to get rf in from it as well..
My late dad (who died 28 february 2023, just over a month short of what would have been his 89th birthday) used to drive a Mercury Grand Marquis onto which he had gotten an aftermarket Lincoln Town Car hood-ornament installed, and throughout my childhood he exclusively owned such full-sized sedans until my sophomore year of high-school. Sadly by the time i could afford to buy my own CRTs, he had downsized to a Volkswagen New Beetle so my mom's minivan had to be the vehicle that hauled such heavy glass behemoths home from the sellers I bought them from.
In the days of crt you learned one thing on your first day in the repair shop, you were told it, and screamed at if you were seen not to do it. 'left hand back pocket' when in the back of a tv. and never a screwdriver for adjusting pots, after all, there not screws.... Reason for the left hand was not to provide a path from right hand up the arm across the chest and heart down the left arm... A hv nip from a TV has been known to break bones in the arms from the muscle contractions so stopping the heart permanently is easy.
Always treat any metal part inside running CRT devices like life mains voltage. I.e. wear gloves and only use one hand. Also supposed "low voltage" (chip) parts often hang at one pole of mains. And for these potentiometers never use metal screwdrivers, Mr. ElectroBoom! Use plastic blade screwdrivers or sturdy cable tie or make your own of plastic. If you short something, it will likely destroy the electronics or the jolt makes you shatter the CRT, which at least in 1950/60th sets means to die of the shards from a detonating glass handgranade.
That looks like a live chassis set (I couldn't see a large transformer in the AC power supply section). This means the circuitry (and more important the chassis/ground) within the set are directly tied to neutral... or hot if you plug it in backwards. It was a cost cutting measure in lots of TVs and was pretty common in RF-only Sony sets. The RF input you'll notice is completely isolated through a little matching transformer, so that you don't accidentally connect your antenna or another device to the AC hot/line. The sets with AV inputs were usually transformer sets for this reason. Probably good to invest in an isolation transformer, or definitely some plastic tools :) 17:21 The screw that connects the antenna is useless for your purpose. You'll want to have the little switch on the back set to EXT ANT, so it will have the built-in rod disconnected. However, these older sets (especially the little portables) were primarily designed for use with antennas. So external noise rejection was not a high priority. And in 2023 with all our LED lights, computers, and switch mode power supplies everywhere? It's a problem! 19:38 Those RF inputs look a little different from other brands because Sony actually sold (or supplied with the larger TVs) antennas with these metal prongs that just plugged right into the holes of the terminals. But of course, you could also use the fork terminals for other stuff, like you did. That's a lovely little TV, glad to see it up and running!
I miss these old sets and have five of them. Unfortunately, being unused and collecting dust, including one from the 70s (I think) with a barrel key hole on the side. Came from a motel, which the idea is if you wanted to watch television, they charged you more. I guess I really should sell them to someone who can give them the proper TLC.
@@tookitogo Clickbait is a different thing - the content of this video is not superficial or misleading, just "most dangerous" is arguable given the effort to do intentionally wrong thing to get an electric shock :) Any tube TV with exposed top pins of horizontal output tube and damper with ~25kV of high voltage is a much higher hazard.
I have always been fascinated with electronics like this and taking them apart. To see how they work. Then putting them back together to see if they would still work after I disassembled and reassembled them. Clear back to the days when I received one of those small black and white/am/fm radio TVs for Christmas from my dad in the 80’s. When I was like 7. 🤷♂️ I wish we still had the days where people repaired electronics. And refurbished them, instead of just throwing them all away like society does today. I find this pretty interesting. I guess I am a nerd. One thing I didn’t know as a kid, was that you could be seriously shocked or hurt by these old TVs inside. 😳😳😳 Learned that much later as a young adult. How I managed to never be shocked of off myself tearing them down like I did is a miracle! 😳😳😳 FYI, they make some really good plastic polishes for that plastic overlay on the front of the tv, to make it look a good bit more presentable. And remove some of those massive scratch swirls. This has a fair amount of tuning controls for the size. These are the type of tvs that used to sit on office desks, like at my dad’s auto body and mechanic shop in the late 80’s, early 90’s. Perfect size for a desk. While they did paperwork or took calls.
I had an old B&W CRT TV this size that actually had a flat front screen, it was a portable TV from an airliner. I do wish i'd kept it now it was quite interesting
hey man watch your videos from time to time finally made a mistake in the servie menu on my 2005 kv-hs420 it is bad is there absolutely no way to reset the service menu to factory or wipe the settings off of the nv ram??? if not i am screwed it seems its very messed up i kept making it worse by accident trying to fix it.
The RF out on the modulator may be weak. A signal amp might help. The tuner is useless, so a composite or RGB mod would make more sense. If the TV isn't isolated with a transformer, you can plug the TV into an isolation transformer or pass the signal through a 75 ohm to 75 ohm isolation transformer. I don't know if they made those, but you can always just made one with magnet wire and a toroid.
👍👍👍🖐 My congratulations! Wonderful buy! Great product! 22USD seems like nothing as for device like this. In Europe retro equipment is much more expensive. I also admire your knowledge. I'm highly interested in retro devices and I repair them quite often but I don't touch tv-sets. My small doubt is... shouldn't you clean it first before first run and to have even visual only inspection inside? Such devices were sometimes kept in very bad conditions and sometimes there is a lot of dust etc. and it might make serious problems during first run? I'm also wondering if making all those adjustments change a lot comparing to factory ones? True it might slightly change with time but on the other hand you don't have any professional tools. At the end, please remember safety first! 🤪
Walmart sells an Onn.-branded "universal" power supply that'll work here. Just set the voltage and polarity on the power supply to match the radio and you'll be good-to-go.
Awesome video Steve! Cant believe that thing shocked you?! I did that before messing around with my Donkey Kong Cab. Hope you’re having a good Thanksgiving! 😊
Hi Retro Tech nice work always, i from Berlin i have a crazy PVM u found nothing from dis Modell, Name is PVM-2060 its from 1983 i found japanese pictrue but not more.
I did a move in 2005 for the cofounder of Muse Air from California to Texas, and his wife gave me one of these. I’ve kept it in good condition, but I haven’t plugged it in since then. Maybe I can plug my Intellivision into it and play it one day
so, to understand what makes these types of Sony Trinitron's so dangerous to work on, because "discharging" can cause so much irreputable damage, that means you have to 'service" these sorts of TVs essentially without discharging meaning there's always a chance you could get zapped with a lot of voltage and amperage which could kill you. Though I am sure there has been some unfortunate TV repairman that has bit the dust because of these Sony TVs, I have to note, actual reported deaths to electric shock from these TVs are quite rare.
@@tookitogo but it's also high frequency so in my case it's 15,625Hz for 625 line, so it'll definitely zap you and it'll hurt but it's not as deadly as 50Hz 240 volts. Most pre-WWII TVs and a few post WWII sets had mains-derived high voltage which was absolutely lethal.
@@MegaWayneD My late 1980th Toshiba portable has its GND on one pole of rectified mains (EU has random mains plug polarity) to omit a mains transformer to cut cost. With small TVs this was normal - that's why in Germany TV sets with jacks (Scart, AV etc.) costed 1/3 more than those without, because they needed a real power supply.
At the time. It was considered top notch quality. I remember as a kid, my parents got a new and bigger TV with a composite video input. My dad was hooking up the NES RF modulator and me being a kid with many questions. I asked "what's that yellow connector for, it's on the Nintendo too" we were both clueless and thought it was sound. After hooking up composite video and not the modulator, we both got excited because the picture was so clear. We definitely thought we were bad ass playing Nintendo with super high quality video. And it was 😅 one of my earliest memories
xD internal heatsinks are usually hipot out which means they hold power they dont follow the rule of being grounded... non techs are not supposed to be in there hence it doesnt matter if they are grounded or not... the RF fuz can be caused by your soldering station, switchmode powersupplies as they are super noisy etc etc....
One day you're gonna get super powers from getting shocked by one of these things. VHS tapes will demagnetize as you walk by. Floppy discs will ERASE in your presence.
So my questions is, would his nickname then be “Magneto”? X-Men Unite! 😂😂 Sorry, I couldn’t help myself. I will show myself out now… 🤷♂️🤷♂️
Like in that movie. lol Be Kind Rewind.
Super powers... or death.
14:42 use plastic screwdrivers to make adjustments instead of metal. Sometimes those trim pots can heat up a metal screwdriver really quick - for example if there's a ferrite slug that's in a coil. Plus you don't need to have something conductive, while poking in those adjustment holes.
It also effects the coil itself, throwing your adjustment off.
Or ceramic trimmer adjusters, which are even nicer.
@@qwertykeyboard5901Yup, anything is better than using a a metal screwdriver. When I was a kid and working on electronics but couldn't afford plastic screwdrivers, I used to take a pocket knife and carve down a bamboo skewer into a little wooden screwdriver. They didn't last long, but it wouldn't throw off your adjustment and you can't get shocked.
Given its vintage and the fact it's an RF-only set, it probably has a live chassis (the set doesn't have an isolating mains transformer so the chassis is at mains potential). So yes, it's dangerous to work on these without an external isolating transformer or at least gloves. Especially in 240V countries :-).
Sony was often cheap with respect to isolation. I had a 1990 19-inch with composite and RF, and it also had a hot chassis.
My Toshiba portable TV of late 1980th (I recapped it yesterday) also runs on rectified mains at its GND lines. The RF jack is coupled by 3 small capacitors. Decades ago I installed a small (music light) trafo to install a safe audio output.
EU mains is actually 230V
@@ScooptaAnd the difference is so trivial that it doesn't matter.
@@cancelhandles and yet it's still wrong
DON'T take that high voltage cap off the CRT without the special tool they show. That is a coaxial HV lead where the 20kv HV is the shield and the 5kv focus is the center. If the cap is not removed properly, the glass to metal seal around the connector will crack and you will get a slow air leak which will quickly ruin the CRT. Sony had a big problem with these in the early 1980s and soon abandoned that design.
Those ones were recalled quickly.
@@mariokart8715 I'm not aware of any recall. They just put out a bulletin to use the proper tool which was just a flat plastic piece that retracted the contacts from the socket. This was not a safety or engineering defect.
I take it only off when I need to (unless an ancient TV has no suction cup on a bare metal tine). Highvoltage in the CRT normally sits there and won't bite unless you accidentally pull that cable out.
I remember that now. People on the bench kept doing the normal practice while an evangelistic sony cult following was continually fighting a losing battle
I am going to say two obvious things, first use and ungrounded floating isolation transformer when working on older CRTs like this to prevent some of the shock risks and lastly use plastic adjustment tools always. Don't stick metal screwdrivers in the CRT, also a metal screwdriver is more likely to make it easier to break an old pot.
Insulation trafos are needed if you connect something grounded (e.g. tube oscilloscope). In real life (unless you stand in a puddle or lean on a faucet or radiator) the dangerous mains shocks are normally caused with both hands, so trafo won't help. Hence wear gloves or only use one hand at a time.
I was slightly nervous as you were waving the front fascia close to the tube base, in the middle of the tube base connector (on the tube) sits a tiny glass nipple if you accidently knock it the screen is finished as it will make a hissing sound as the vacuum tube fills with air! I used to repair similar stuff here in the UK back in the 80s. Some of the larger monitor style Sony screens of that era had glass front covers. I hated TV repairs due to getting shocks here in the UK on 250v at the time so I quickly moved on to audio and vcr repairs.
God I feel old when I see an adult not knowing how to tune a channel :P
Millennials never had to deal with analog thumbwheel tuners that were also on VCRs from that era
lol
@@MikinessAnalogyeah, I was like "how does a grown ass man not know how to tune a TV?", and then I remembered I'm 43 😅
@@MikinessAnalogThe oldest millennials are now 40. Some of them would have used those tuners in their childhood.
@@MikinessAnalog lol yes we did. Especially if you were poor. Had both those preset wheel+button tvs and the older rotary tuners growing up and im in my early 30s
Retro Tech: Hopefully I won't get zapped.
Trinitron: Bet.
14:41 the sound of retro tech discharging himself 😂😂
Dangerous stuff. I got zapped once by a 32" crt ⚡ Very painful
this TV can be seen in the 1982 movie Poltergeist, "Don't sit so close, Carol Anne, you'll ruin your eyes!"
17:40 - not really down to the age of the tuner, they realised that people who used portable TVs were less critical of picture and sound quality due to smaller screen and speaker so they took liberties and cut costs to price competitively.
2:32 - That is not a heavy CRT, I have a 88KG 460i CRT that is 60hz and is 16:9 ratio, THAT is heavier than I have ever been....lol Yet I managed to lift it in my 20s about 50 metres, If I tried that now, RIP my back for 3weeks at least!!! This TV still works, last used it 30mins ago in fact with a HiFi VHS tape single. Metallica Hero of the Day VHS single. Not CD single or Cassette single VHS single!
Get some ceramic screwdrivers
CRTs can kill you. High voltages all over inside of set. RGB drive voltages can be upto 500 volts. A flyback you can see up toin extreme cases around 50,000 volts! If the rubber boot is cracked it will leak in to you if you get near it. Arck will jump in to you if you are not careful. They always say to work with one hand behind your back to prevent high voltage from jumping across your heart. That will kill you! They make plastic adjustment drivers to adjust RGB gun voltages. These are some of the reasons that they inform you to havwe a certified technition work on these types of sets. Back in the days they had the correct tools to service sets like that one. All CRTs are the same. Color ones are worse to work on. Voltages are higher and more of them. Remember, One hand behind back or better yet in pocket.
Not the 30KV are most deadly, but few hundred volt at about 1A, those lurk everywhere in CRT power supplies and mains connections. A CRT is a glass capacitor that stores highvoltage (that 30KV under the suction cup) also when off. Most dangerous of touching it is that you will accidentally shatter the tube and so (particularly with 1950/60th TVs) die of the shards from a glass handgranade.
⚡ *Bzzzttt!*
Yeah, they weren't kidding about the *high voltage* stuff! Be very careful working around a CRT, as there are still high voltages present even with the power unplugged.
Just curious: why pass the SNES through an external RF modulator instead of just using the RF Out port on the back? you could just use an RCA to Coax adapter to plug it in directly and it'll work fine
Smh...If you're going to clean these old sets up,invest in a high voltage probe so you can discharge the picture tube for disassembly!The little red box is a called a high voltage block!Most manufacturers had the G-2 and the focus on the back of the flyback itself.Sony thought it was more cost practical to have a separate block for the convergence for correction errors!Sony TV's were way over engineered,and we used to poke jokes at them all the time about how half the parts could be thrown away and the TV would still work! 😂 The best TV for the time was still the Zenith's and the RCA's.
My Toshiba portable from late 1980th has only one singlesided PCB with barely unneeded parts. There seems to be not even degaussing nor dynamic convergence. But its live chassis hangs directly on rectified mains, so I needed a small trafo to safely add an audio output.
RF give "Cuphead" effects for all games 😄😍
me (27) watching you (idk 40) fumble over that style of tuner made my day
Dude I would totally buy that tv for 30 bucks.
I skip Sony CRTs, they tent to be horrible to work on.
But they were the best of the best.
Super Cool Video, But Sorry, VHF is not a frequency, but a band, for Me its not even a band, but a spectrum bandwith right there with HF , UHF and all others, Frequency is specific number like 466.047MHz, But damn. I feel so stupid, Remembered that i got ton of these crts, Brand new and i just tossed them in a bin, it was 10 years ago, but still, they all where ussr made.
What's REALLY dangerous is grabbing something with a current above 10mA. That's when you get into the level that can make your muscles freeze and unable to let go.
Has anybody ever heard this before:
"It's the current that gets you"
@@gordonwelcher9598It’s the volts that jolts, the mills* that kills.
*referring to milliamps.
@@gordonwelcher9598It’s the volts that jolts, the mills* that kills.
*referring to milliamps.
Beatiful TV, definitely a keeper. If you are into the classic Sony's I would suggest the KX models as they are part of the Profeel family and have better tubes ++. Glad you are still breathing 😂
15:36 ALL CRTs have fairly light phosphors. You just don’t notice it on most of them because the gray filter is often bonded directly to the face of the tube, and some use tinted glass instead (or in addition to the laminated filter). Any CRT with an anti-glare (satin) surface has a film bonded to the surface.
Black CRTs wear their phosphor much faster because they have to shine 4x brighter through a dark gray paint layer.
Jesus. I feel like my 20" Phillips is going to kill me. I am terrified to remove the anode cap. When I open it up, I can hear it. It has been unplugged for almost two years now. My two JVC's play nice as far as I can tell.
You need to make a CRT discharge cable from a flat sheetmetal connected to a cable with metal clip to the outer CRT layer/springs (that's the 2nd pole) and another cable (in Germany prongless Schuko plug) to the socket earth pin. Discharging is safe (only do not damage the glass or its connector when pushing the sheetmetal under the suction cup).
I bought the same exact model at a garage sale earlier this year for $5 😊It doesn't have the plastic screen cover though, I'm pretty sure the tv is meant for use in a kitchen, I remember adrian black had a video with the same tv when I was looking into it after buying.
recapping that would be a nightmare...
Man i saw that shock coming a mile away lol. I own a arcade and hate touching my crt's when they need adjusted lol.
you know you can inject directly R.G.B signals into the input instead of going through the tuner input, which is less absurd than using - in the console, RGB ( the SNES PAL have RGB output) into composite video > UHF > reconversion in the TV to RGB
like, some screw-in DB15 plug on the rear, I would totally do something like that.
Dissconnect the telescopic antenna, it gets ths. "Snow" for You.
If You dont use it, Disconnect it becsuse the set is trying to get rf in from it as well..
My late dad (who died 28 february 2023, just over a month short of what would have been his 89th birthday) used to drive a Mercury Grand Marquis onto which he had gotten an aftermarket Lincoln Town Car hood-ornament installed, and throughout my childhood he exclusively owned such full-sized sedans until my sophomore year of high-school. Sadly by the time i could afford to buy my own CRTs, he had downsized to a Volkswagen New Beetle so my mom's minivan had to be the vehicle that hauled such heavy glass behemoths home from the sellers I bought them from.
In the days of crt you learned one thing on your first day in the repair shop, you were told it, and screamed at if you were seen not to do it. 'left hand back pocket' when in the back of a tv. and never a screwdriver for adjusting pots, after all, there not screws....
Reason for the left hand was not to provide a path from right hand up the arm across the chest and heart down the left arm... A hv nip from a TV has been known to break bones in the arms from the muscle contractions so stopping the heart permanently is easy.
Always treat any metal part inside running CRT devices like life mains voltage. I.e. wear gloves and only use one hand. Also supposed "low voltage" (chip) parts often hang at one pole of mains. And for these potentiometers never use metal screwdrivers, Mr. ElectroBoom! Use plastic blade screwdrivers or sturdy cable tie or make your own of plastic. If you short something, it will likely destroy the electronics or the jolt makes you shatter the CRT, which at least in 1950/60th sets means to die of the shards from a detonating glass handgranade.
This TV is not any more deadlier then a dumb electrician who doesn't know how to avoid being electrified.
I had an old Trinitron back in the day.
Played a shit ton of SNES on it.
She looked good enough for Super Mario World.
Ive torn apart so many crts and vcrs when i was scrapping alot. If only i knew the value and desire to save them would be so high in the future.
You decided to sell, give away or throw out that North American junior Super NES. It can’t be serviced at the moment. Is it worth selling or donating?
My gf Katherine grew up around front Royal luray and Winchester area ! Are you near Manassas va ?
imagine putting those things in an Apollo spacecraft. It's incredible those missions even got off the ground.
Why does your voice sound so similar to the voice of famous prank caller, Longmont Potion Castle?
still today exists as ever with the trinitron is its great attracting an enduring cult following few brands succeed as well as sony
I recently bought a palm pilot, I don’t know why I like old stuff, I just do.
That looks like a live chassis set (I couldn't see a large transformer in the AC power supply section). This means the circuitry (and more important the chassis/ground) within the set are directly tied to neutral... or hot if you plug it in backwards. It was a cost cutting measure in lots of TVs and was pretty common in RF-only Sony sets. The RF input you'll notice is completely isolated through a little matching transformer, so that you don't accidentally connect your antenna or another device to the AC hot/line. The sets with AV inputs were usually transformer sets for this reason. Probably good to invest in an isolation transformer, or definitely some plastic tools :)
17:21 The screw that connects the antenna is useless for your purpose. You'll want to have the little switch on the back set to EXT ANT, so it will have the built-in rod disconnected. However, these older sets (especially the little portables) were primarily designed for use with antennas. So external noise rejection was not a high priority. And in 2023 with all our LED lights, computers, and switch mode power supplies everywhere? It's a problem!
19:38 Those RF inputs look a little different from other brands because Sony actually sold (or supplied with the larger TVs) antennas with these metal prongs that just plugged right into the holes of the terminals. But of course, you could also use the fork terminals for other stuff, like you did.
That's a lovely little TV, glad to see it up and running!
I miss these old sets and have five of them. Unfortunately, being unused and collecting dust, including one from the 70s (I think) with a barrel key hole on the side. Came from a motel, which the idea is if you wanted to watch television, they charged you more. I guess I really should sell them to someone who can give them the proper TLC.
A really nice find, but I did not understand why it won the title "most dangerous"...
Yeah, just clickbait. :(
@@tookitogo Clickbait is a different thing - the content of this video is not superficial or misleading, just "most dangerous" is arguable given the effort to do intentionally wrong thing to get an electric shock :) Any tube TV with exposed top pins of horizontal output tube and damper with ~25kV of high voltage is a much higher hazard.
Mr Filming his hand. Cant Watch. Most of the Video is only his hand.
This is beautiful, I would have loved to have this in my bedroom as a kid! It's great to see millennials getting interested in older technology.
I have always been fascinated with electronics like this and taking them apart. To see how they work. Then putting them back together to see if they would still work after I disassembled and reassembled them. Clear back to the days when I received one of those small black and white/am/fm radio TVs for Christmas from my dad in the 80’s. When I was like 7. 🤷♂️ I wish we still had the days where people repaired electronics. And refurbished them, instead of just throwing them all away like society does today. I find this pretty interesting. I guess I am a nerd. One thing I didn’t know as a kid, was that you could be seriously shocked or hurt by these old TVs inside. 😳😳😳 Learned that much later as a young adult. How I managed to never be shocked of off myself tearing them down like I did is a miracle! 😳😳😳
FYI, they make some really good plastic polishes for that plastic overlay on the front of the tv, to make it look a good bit more presentable. And remove some of those massive scratch swirls.
This has a fair amount of tuning controls for the size. These are the type of tvs that used to sit on office desks, like at my dad’s auto body and mechanic shop in the late 80’s, early 90’s. Perfect size for a desk. While they did paperwork or took calls.
I had an old B&W CRT TV this size that actually had a flat front screen, it was a portable TV from an airliner. I do wish i'd kept it now it was quite interesting
my man nervous a mid 80's sony product isn't going to work 😄
hey man watch your videos from time to time finally made a mistake in the servie menu on my 2005 kv-hs420 it is bad is there absolutely no way to reset the service menu to factory or wipe the settings off of the nv ram??? if not i am screwed it seems its very messed up i kept making it worse by accident trying to fix it.
Looks similar to my 1981 Sony PVM-8000
It's a handsome little set, I think it's best use would be watching TV shows and movies by hooking it up to a computer or VHS
You mean “a VCR”? A Betamax is not a VHS, for example…
Used electronics can bring very undesirable insects into your house.
Well, the finger pocking method. Long life to you dude.
I really enjoyed your video!!
Thank you
I know the feeling all too well. It's about the same as getting zapped by a spark plug coil lol
The RF out on the modulator may be weak. A signal amp might help. The tuner is useless, so a composite or RGB mod would make more sense. If the TV isn't isolated with a transformer, you can plug the TV into an isolation transformer or pass the signal through a 75 ohm to 75 ohm isolation transformer. I don't know if they made those, but you can always just made one with magnet wire and a toroid.
With one pole on mains (live chassis) RGB mod is very complicated. RGB contains DC and (unlike audio) can not simply run trough a transformer.
Is there much of a demand for these nowdays?
nice one 🙂
Love the TV man! It would suit my Atari nicely 👌
you sound a bit like garfield
Don't make them like that anymode!
Such a beautiful piece of old technology.
What a beautiful piece of tech, sometimes I see something and I just want it
👍👍👍🖐 My congratulations! Wonderful buy! Great product! 22USD seems like nothing as for device like this. In Europe retro equipment is much more expensive. I also admire your knowledge. I'm highly interested in retro devices and I repair them quite often but I don't touch tv-sets. My small doubt is... shouldn't you clean it first before first run and to have even visual only inspection inside? Such devices were sometimes kept in very bad conditions and sometimes there is a lot of dust etc. and it might make serious problems during first run? I'm also wondering if making all those adjustments change a lot comparing to factory ones? True it might slightly change with time but on the other hand you don't have any professional tools. At the end, please remember safety first! 🤪
They can bring very undesirable insects into your house
AFAIK its USA where vintage stuff is moonpriced. Music keyboards or quartz clocks for 40EUR in Germany can cost hundreds in USA or Japan.
Walmart sells an Onn.-branded "universal" power supply that'll work here. Just set the voltage and polarity on the power supply to match the radio and you'll be good-to-go.
Wow! That unit looks so cool Steve. I never seen that good looking piece for its age and glad you have it. 8^)
Anthony..
Awesome video Steve! Cant believe that thing shocked you?! I did that before messing around with my Donkey Kong Cab. Hope you’re having a good Thanksgiving! 😊
Hi Retro Tech nice work always, i from Berlin i have a crazy PVM u found nothing from dis Modell, Name is PVM-2060 its from 1983 i found japanese pictrue but not more.
The aesthetics of this is everything!
That has a very nice picture, a really cool little TV. Great find!
I did a move in 2005 for the cofounder of Muse Air from California to Texas, and his wife gave me one of these. I’ve kept it in good condition, but I haven’t plugged it in since then. Maybe I can plug my Intellivision into it and play it one day
so, to understand what makes these types of Sony Trinitron's so dangerous to work on, because "discharging" can cause so much irreputable damage, that means you have to 'service" these sorts of TVs essentially without discharging meaning there's always a chance you could get zapped with a lot of voltage and amperage which could kill you. Though I am sure there has been some unfortunate TV repairman that has bit the dust because of these Sony TVs, I have to note, actual reported deaths to electric shock from these TVs are quite rare.
You should of unplug it first
You can’t adjust a CRT turned off. But you need to use the correct tool and procedure.
*PHILIPS had a dangerous and radio active tv in the 80’s too! I saw them in a college in England way way back!* 💡
Install batteries in that Sanyo boombox
Use precharged NiMH instead.
It would be interesting to know if you can RGB mod the set somehow.
If it has a jungle chip you can mod it
What a gorgeous machine! Did you try to get the yoke aligned?
No need, it already is aligned.
👋🏼 hello
Hey hey Steve! Good to see you my dude! Hope you are doing well!
Hey brother! Happy Friday. You had a nice grab getting that CRT from your parents!
Thanks dude you too! It's nice to have something I used to game on! :)@@RetroTechUSA
Hey man , I love that you rescued this beautiful CRT , BUT why when you disassembled it not to do the AV MOD ?
He didn't know how analog tuners functioned,
do you really think he could tackle a mod like that?
With one pole on mains (live chassis) RGB/AV mod is very complicated or will fry everything grounded plugged into it (and everybody touching that).
Cool! Needs composite mod.
Well yea, if the chassis is wired to the top half of the sinewave (Live) wire of the plug theres a high risk of death.
It isn’t in this model, and that’s not why he got shocked.
Love the grand marquis! I have a 91
i love it
Awesome little tv.
Great find Steve! Will fit with an Atari!
And NES
Dangerous? *laughs in 240 volt live chassis tube set*
The voltages in a CRT TV are in the tens of thousands of volts - 20kV to 50kV is common. The live mains chassis is the least of your worries.
@@tookitogo but it's also high frequency so in my case it's 15,625Hz for 625 line, so it'll definitely zap you and it'll hurt but it's not as deadly as 50Hz 240 volts. Most pre-WWII TVs and a few post WWII sets had mains-derived high voltage which was absolutely lethal.
@@MegaWayneD My late 1980th Toshiba portable has its GND on one pole of rectified mains (EU has random mains plug polarity) to omit a mains transformer to cut cost. With small TVs this was normal - that's why in Germany TV sets with jacks (Scart, AV etc.) costed 1/3 more than those without, because they needed a real power supply.
"primitive"
It’s always safe to tweak anything on the inside when unplugged, as there’s a high chance of electrocuting yourself when leaving an old CRT on.
"... older than me, from 1980!" Whippersnapper. 😏😆
What a beautiful CRT! Looks like it could be good for atari gameplay.
Man images were so expectedly crappy back then adding a plastic overlay actually helped😂😂
At the time. It was considered top notch quality. I remember as a kid, my parents got a new and bigger TV with a composite video input. My dad was hooking up the NES RF modulator and me being a kid with many questions. I asked "what's that yellow connector for, it's on the Nintendo too" we were both clueless and thought it was sound. After hooking up composite video and not the modulator, we both got excited because the picture was so clear. We definitely thought we were bad ass playing Nintendo with super high quality video. And it was 😅 one of my earliest memories
Did you drink before or during this video?
Why
Did you drink while typing this comment?
He was drinking beer much earlier in his life and now.
Shame when nice vintage gear falls into the hands of the clueless.
Haha, shame that you wasted 20 minutes of your life watching clueless people.
xD internal heatsinks are usually hipot out which means they hold power they dont follow the rule of being grounded... non techs are not supposed to be in there hence it doesnt matter if they are grounded or not... the RF fuz can be caused by your soldering station, switchmode powersupplies as they are super noisy etc etc....