Used this power supply for my “8”kw heater all last winter worked great. Once winter ended I tossed a used shirt over it to protect it from dust. Fired it up today so far no issues. Soo definitely recommend it.
I'm glad to see someone admit their faults. I always tell someone that if you don't know take 5 mins and look it up. It's better than breaking something or worse. I do know that I've been told by people that run waste oil on their trucks to only run a mixture around 80% diesel and 20% oil. I've never tried it because diesel parts are expensive and I'm not made of money. Love the videos though👍
Burning waste oil is really a poor idea. There is a reason waste oil is no longer dumped on gravel roads to keep the dust down. Its really awful stuff and burning it is illegal in many areas of the USA, Britain and the world. At least use home heating oil or biofuel to save a bit of money. Your children and their children will appreciate it. That being said...I have 10 gallons of the stuff to dispose of and am building a filter system to process it for my diesel heater.
You could definitely run both of those heaters on the one power supply as long as you stagger the glo plug startups (couple of minutes each), as the run time draw is a fraction of the start up draw.
Thank you for the useful information. I've been doing this for many years and it does indeed work. It's the only thing that I found that does. But to think about the power going off and killing the heaters. Well, that does happen. I plug mine right into a Milwaukee battery Adapter that gives me 12 V from the 18. Makes the heater very portable. my 115 transformer Step down fan. spans/ runs all the time. It could be annoying and noisy. Thank you for all the useful videos and sharing what you found.
I really love how you pre-fluxed the surfaces to be soldered, and used the hot iron with a blob of solder to tin the wires. That's how I always solder; trying to heat up the wires or terminals to melt the solder almost never works for me; it just oxidizes/corrodes the copper conductors and ruins the insulation, and usually the solder doesn't adequately melt or flow onto the copper surfaces to properly tin them, anyway. In most of my soldering jobs, the flux core in the solder doesn't flow fast enough --- or it just burns up too fast, before it ever even touches the joint --- to coat the surfaces properly, either; the joint really needs to be fluxed beforehand, as you did here. :D
I have one of these diesel heaters too and I experience exactly what you were experiencing with biodiesel or black diesel and you have to run the thing on the highest possible setting that it goes at or else you're not going to burn off the petroleum-based product the waste oil you can't run it on low you can't run on a medium you have to run it full tilt to max power or else it will never work hope this helps
Been using one of these power supplies on all of my diesel heaters. They have some voltage adjustment on them. You can set them to floot charge a 12 volt battery, then your good to go even if you disconnect from the AC, the only way to go with these heaters.
These things consume very little wattage once at operating temp(30-40ish watts at full speed) so if you only have access to that 300w power supply you should be able to run both, just get the first one to temp before you start the second. They pull somewhere around 150-200w during startup and shut down (I’m overstating but I haven’t figured in the extra load from the 12v charger in my setup).
I’m thinking if I get an inverter generator and one of these I can ditch the battery and run my diesel heater a lot easier in the truck bed winter camping in the Canadian north.
@ I could, I used to do that. The diesel heater definitely puts out more heat than the the space heater. My gear dries out better than with the space heater. I realize it’s redundant and inefficient but 🤷🏻♂️it’s warm!
Not sure you needed to go to expense of buying switched power cord, could just use computer type mains lead (or similar) and cut the plug off that goes into PC. Then use the switch at wall socket . Better to crimp connectors rather than solder to make it more secure. Definitely do not secure your power supply to the wall in that way. It's dangerous, at some point a connection will come loose or get dragged out. Just going through same procedure as you with almost same power supply. I'm just looking into having the supply trickle charging a battery. Someone could make some serious money selling kits for the power supply side of diesel heating. Cheers for the video.
If there was serious money in such an idea...someone would have done it years ago. Nobody is going to pay $75 or more for a kit to run an inexpensive diesel heater.
If you are worried about a power-outage making it unable to do the cooldown. You can add enough 14v capacitors/capacitance, in parallel to the 12.9 output, to last long enough for the cooldown process. Or, just plug the 120ac side into an Uninterruptable Power Supply. Or, just be offgrid, powering your home with and Inverter (the opposite of the power supply, that converts 12volt DC to 120 pure sinewave AC), and 12v big batteries, that are recharged by solar panels, or generators attached to wind turbines, waterwheels, or exercise equipment.
Whether it will support 2 heaters is calculated the same as figuring your outlet circuit. volts X Amps = Watts, so if your circuit is a 15 Amp breaker you have 120v x 15A = 1800 watts to play with (I'd say more like 1600, if you sit consistently at your peak rating, you are going waiting for a fire). Your 300 Watt Power supply is currently being drained of 12v x 15a =180 Watts. so a second would pull 360 Watts, not a good idea. The last thing to check is if the heater has "inrush" current, which is a spike when a device first turns on. certain motors can pull as much as twice their rated wattage the first second of it firing up.. TLDR version, I'd remove telling people they might be able to run 2 heaters on one 300W power supply.
just so you know, power supplies can be VERY iffy when cheap. I've done some GPU mining stuff and GPU miners ALWAYS talk about being overly safe about power supplies, best to have something thats a little bit more well built that can handle more for redundancies' sake.
Amps aren’t the thing that kills you. I can touch 1000amps but nothing will happen if the voltage is only 12v. You need breakdown voltage of the body, then enough amperage.
You are betting someones life that there is only 12 volts involved. I have experienced the barefoot tingle from touching a fully charged 24v truck battery while it was sitting on a wet concrete floor. Its not unfeasible that a higher voltage, even if DC, could be deadly.
Would you be able to tell me the details behind using a pc power supply pls? Would i just cut off one end of the cord and wire the heater directly into it? Skip the 12v ac to dc bs?
tinning wires is the number one thing not to do, its soft and will deform and come loose, happens all the time with 3d printers and that exact power supply. Use a ferrule or worst case bare wire, never tin it.
Buying a non UL listed power supply is a risky one. People assume if its sold on Amazon it has to be safe. That is far from the case. I would never run a cheap power supply, especially when im not around.
How do you know if the UL label means any more than the manufacturer has paid Underwriters Laboratory to put the product through a series of tests so the item can demand a higher price and the manufacturer subject to lesser product liability? Now found in over 40 countries...there seems tremendous room fro assumption concerning ANYTHING wearing the UL label.
I think your PSU fan is broke. Very expensive PSU's will cycle the fans on and off to save power / noise but I doubt your $24 PSU is trying to do that.
Umm no Amps are not what kill you.. Well actually they do but its the volts that push the amps through.. So twice the volts will push twice the amps if the resistance is the same. About 30 milliamps through the heart muscle will kill you. As both systems are in the AMPs range (I.e well above milliamps) the 240 system could be considered twice as dangerous. But like all things its never quite that simple. The US standard is 60 Hz which is closer to the hearts natural frequency of 72 beats per minute, where as the rest of the World is at 50Hz.. So electricity running through the heart at 60 Hz is in theory worse than 50Hz.. Bottom line.. Don't stick your fingers in the socket.
Sorry but why would you spend that much money, and more importantly time, to make something that is readily available cheaply already? ***EDIT*** Ah, I see that the new heater specifies 12V 15A so you'd need a 180W power supply In truth, what I would do would be to use a cheap battery maintainer (charger) and small/cheap/spare 12V automotive style battery. Or even better a solar panel and charge controller with the same battery...
Used this power supply for my “8”kw heater all last winter worked great. Once winter ended I tossed a used shirt over it to protect it from dust. Fired it up today so far no issues. Soo definitely recommend it.
Best information so far. I like the way you show where and what you got and not just put it in the link
links disappear, I made it so I don't have to update them as I got tired of people asking
Used this power supply for my “8”kw heater all last winter worked great.
Once winter ended I tossed a used shirt over it to protect it from dust.
Fired it up today so far no issues.
Soo definitely recommend it.
awesome!!
Absolutely brilliant. Best way to have this for heat pump failure backup and keep batteries for power outage only.
I'm glad to see someone admit their faults. I always tell someone that if you don't know take 5 mins and look it up. It's better than breaking something or worse. I do know that I've been told by people that run waste oil on their trucks to only run a mixture around 80% diesel and 20% oil. I've never tried it because diesel parts are expensive and I'm not made of money. Love the videos though👍
Burning waste oil is really a poor idea. There is a reason waste oil is no longer dumped on gravel roads to keep the dust down. Its really awful stuff and burning it is illegal in many areas of the USA, Britain and the world. At least use home heating oil or biofuel to save a bit of money. Your children and their children will appreciate it. That being said...I have 10 gallons of the stuff to dispose of and am building a filter system to process it for my diesel heater.
You could definitely run both of those heaters on the one power supply as long as you stagger the glo plug startups (couple of minutes each), as the run time draw is a fraction of the start up draw.
Yes, startup amps on a very similar diesel heater was approximately 8.5 and running amps was approximately 2.5 on 12 volt supply.
The best I have seen! I loved the explosion scenes etc.LOL
Thank you for the useful information. I've been doing this for many years and it does indeed work. It's the only thing that I found that does. But to think about the power going off and killing the heaters. Well, that does happen. I plug mine right into a Milwaukee battery Adapter that gives me 12 V from the 18. Makes the heater very portable. my 115 transformer Step down fan. spans/ runs all the time. It could be annoying and noisy. Thank you for all the useful videos and sharing what you found.
I really love how you pre-fluxed the surfaces to be soldered, and used the hot iron with a blob of solder to tin the wires. That's how I always solder; trying to heat up the wires or terminals to melt the solder almost never works for me; it just oxidizes/corrodes the copper conductors and ruins the insulation, and usually the solder doesn't adequately melt or flow onto the copper surfaces to properly tin them, anyway. In most of my soldering jobs, the flux core in the solder doesn't flow fast enough --- or it just burns up too fast, before it ever even touches the joint --- to coat the surfaces properly, either; the joint really needs to be fluxed beforehand, as you did here. :D
If you have an old desktop computer you might want to throw out.. Pull out the power supply, they are perfect for running the heater.
Have you made a video for the new heater yet?
awesome info. I've pulled some similar supplies from old led setups, alwasys wondered how to reuse them.
I have one of these diesel heaters too and I experience exactly what you were experiencing with biodiesel or black diesel and you have to run the thing on the highest possible setting that it goes at or else you're not going to burn off the petroleum-based product the waste oil you can't run it on low you can't run on a medium you have to run it full tilt to max power or else it will never work hope this helps
A lot depends on what heater you invested in. Some do just fine. Others? Not at all.
Been using one of these power supplies on all of my diesel heaters. They have some voltage adjustment on them. You can set them to floot charge a 12 volt battery, then your good to go even if you disconnect from the AC, the only way to go with these heaters.
These things consume very little wattage once at operating temp(30-40ish watts at full speed) so if you only have access to that 300w power supply you should be able to run both, just get the first one to temp before you start the second.
They pull somewhere around 150-200w during startup and shut down (I’m overstating but I haven’t figured in the extra load from the 12v charger in my setup).
The Vevor @ 15A means two heaters for the 30A power supply you bought.
I've used the PSU from my faulty Xbox360, 16 premium amps are good enough for this unit!
I’m thinking if I get an inverter generator and one of these I can ditch the battery and run my diesel heater a lot easier in the truck bed winter camping in the Canadian north.
Run a generator to run this heater? Just run a 800 watt electric heater instead.
@ I could, I used to do that. The diesel heater definitely puts out more heat than the the space heater. My gear dries out better than with the space heater. I realize it’s redundant and inefficient but 🤷🏻♂️it’s warm!
Not sure you needed to go to expense of buying switched power cord, could just use computer type mains lead (or similar) and cut the plug off that goes into PC. Then use the switch at wall socket . Better to crimp connectors rather than solder to make it more secure. Definitely do not secure your power supply to the wall in that way. It's dangerous, at some point a connection will come loose or get dragged out. Just going through same procedure as you with almost same power supply. I'm just looking into having the supply trickle charging a battery. Someone could make some serious money selling kits for the power supply side of diesel heating. Cheers for the video.
If there was serious money in such an idea...someone would have done it years ago. Nobody is going to pay $75 or more for a kit to run an inexpensive diesel heater.
If you are worried about a power-outage making it unable to do the cooldown. You can add enough 14v capacitors/capacitance, in parallel to the 12.9 output, to last long enough for the cooldown process.
Or, just plug the 120ac side into an Uninterruptable Power Supply.
Or, just be offgrid, powering your home with and Inverter (the opposite of the power supply, that converts 12volt DC to 120 pure sinewave AC), and 12v big batteries, that are recharged by solar panels, or generators attached to wind turbines, waterwheels, or exercise equipment.
Capacitors will run this thing for 5-7 minutes? Really? Have you tested that idea?
Ok I'm invested now are you gonna mess with the PG or VG I don't remember which as a thing agent ?
Whether it will support 2 heaters is calculated the same as figuring your outlet circuit. volts X Amps = Watts, so if your circuit is a 15 Amp breaker you have 120v x 15A = 1800 watts to play with (I'd say more like 1600, if you sit consistently at your peak rating, you are going waiting for a fire). Your 300 Watt Power supply is currently being drained of 12v x 15a =180 Watts. so a second would pull 360 Watts, not a good idea. The last thing to check is if the heater has "inrush" current, which is a spike when a device first turns on. certain motors can pull as much as twice their rated wattage the first second of it firing up.. TLDR version, I'd remove telling people they might be able to run 2 heaters on one 300W power supply.
Did the heater work better of the supply compared to the car battery?
Exactly the same
Nothing works better than a fully charged battery with the proper fuse in place.
Love your videos👍
Thank you!
The made in China tag is a tip-off it’s high quality 😝
just so you know, power supplies can be VERY iffy when cheap. I've done some GPU mining stuff and GPU miners ALWAYS talk about being overly safe about power supplies, best to have something thats a little bit more well built that can handle more for redundancies' sake.
What happens if power goes out? Couldn't it cause a fire due to not having a cool down?
Yes it could yet the result would likely be melted plastic and a funny smell. Diesel heaters are not for everyone.
Haha! Awesome. Thanks! This will do. :-)
Amps aren’t the thing that kills you.
I can touch 1000amps but nothing will happen if the voltage is only 12v.
You need breakdown voltage of the body, then enough amperage.
You are betting someones life that there is only 12 volts involved. I have experienced the barefoot tingle from touching a fully charged 24v truck battery while it was sitting on a wet concrete floor. Its not unfeasible that a higher voltage, even if DC, could be deadly.
The thank you ❤
Future reference you could have used the PC power supply or a brick4a laptop 😉
Would you be able to tell me the details behind using a pc power supply pls? Would i just cut off one end of the cord and wire the heater directly into it? Skip the 12v ac to dc bs?
Bruh! You're a fuckin legend! What a great video and your editing is on point, very impressive video!
Thank you!
tinning wires is the number one thing not to do, its soft and will deform and come loose, happens all the time with 3d printers and that exact power supply. Use a ferrule or worst case bare wire, never tin it.
I was wondering about that. I would have just crimped on one of those ring connector things, with heat shrink around the crimp.
Silver solder would work very well for this method yet crimping on a ferrule is a zillion times quicker.
Thanks for giving me an excuse to get a new MacBook.
Got you 😉
Buying a non UL listed power supply is a risky one. People assume if its sold on Amazon it has to be safe. That is far from the case. I would never run a cheap power supply, especially when im not around.
How do you know if the UL label means any more than the manufacturer has paid Underwriters Laboratory to put the product through a series of tests so the item can demand a higher price and the manufacturer subject to lesser product liability? Now found in over 40 countries...there seems tremendous room fro assumption concerning ANYTHING wearing the UL label.
A 30amp want run 2 of them
I think your PSU fan is broke. Very expensive PSU's will cycle the fans on and off to save power / noise but I doubt your $24 PSU is trying to do that.
12V x 15A is only 180 watt peak output. The power supply is so much over kill!
Not really as you do NOT want too little current.
5:20 Why? You use google? You have multimeter you can check which one is hot ...
Same style of power unit that 3D printers.
😁 'Promo SM'
Umm no Amps are not what kill you.. Well actually they do but its the volts that push the amps through.. So twice the volts will push twice the amps if the resistance is the same. About 30 milliamps through the heart muscle will kill you. As both systems are in the AMPs range (I.e well above milliamps) the 240 system could be considered twice as dangerous. But like all things its never quite that simple. The US standard is 60 Hz which is closer to the hearts natural frequency of 72 beats per minute, where as the rest of the World is at 50Hz.. So electricity running through the heart at 60 Hz is in theory worse than 50Hz.. Bottom line.. Don't stick your fingers in the socket.
Sorry but why would you spend that much money, and more importantly time, to make something that is readily available cheaply already?
***EDIT*** Ah, I see that the new heater specifies 12V 15A so you'd need a 180W power supply
In truth, what I would do would be to use a cheap battery maintainer (charger) and small/cheap/spare 12V automotive style battery. Or even better a solar panel and charge controller with the same battery...
You only need a 10 amp power supply. I made one for about $12 including an Anderson connector.
you must be drawing the additional start-up amperage from a car battery?
There is no limit to the amount of time you can invest in saving a few bucks. Your time is worth AT LEAST $15/hr and likely far more.
Used this power supply for my “8”kw heater all last winter worked great.
Once winter ended I tossed a used shirt over it to protect it from dust.
Fired it up today so far no issues.
Soo definitely recommend it.