Glad you enjoyed it! If you're doing your own slip seats, there are other videos in the series that detail making a frame and the parts that go into the rest of the layers. Also making the tools you might need.
There are several other parts to the upholstery portion, starting with making tools to do the job. Another details making new seat frames, one for doing the webbing, and another that’s “under the leather” detailing the layers to get good padding. Hope these help. Feel free to post questions if anything is unclear.
You’re welcome! It’s one I wished was out there when I first did these. It’s a part of a whole series, with several parts on making a slip seat and the tools you need.
Thanks for your support and motivation! Glad you found this informative. If you haven’t seen it yet , you may also be interested in “Under the Leather” - details of slip seat upholstery.
This is part of a series on chair construction. There are several more before and after this one just on upholstery. Playlist link: ruclips.net/p/PLG54YDR0_HPjxSqIroqm7aFjAp2RSe1sO Slip Seat starts here: ruclips.net/video/HQfDpngvD6I/видео.html
Thanks! It should be fairly the same process, except that with vinyl you can stretch it over those tough spots and remove some of the wrinkles by warming it up with a hair dryer. It’s also a lot easier if the vinyl is warm and pliable. I covered a motorcycle seat (before we made RUclips videos) and it worked fairly well. Leather is easier in that regard. It doesn’t get stiff when it’s cold.
Somewhere along the way I read that slip seat upholstery used to be part of the skill set of chair makers. So I just went for it! Not as bad as I thought! But there are several parts to the upholstery series. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I used what I had. I tried a hand stapler but it didn’t have enough power. Don’t recall off hand what I used, but I thought I addressed that - perhaps in an earlier video in the series. Start with the one on the seat frame and go from there.
Great content! What is your opinion on stitching together leathers of contrasting color? I love the look of Arts and Crafts furniture in it's simple elegance. The leatherwork is one thing that drew me to the style in tandem with the joinery style of this type of furniture. I want to make a Morris chair with some leatherwork on the cushions with armpads to match.
The traditional Morris chairs had a single, very thick leather, from what I recall. My grandparents had two of them in their living room. But there is nothing wrong in deviating from tradition to create a look that you like. I could see an accomplished person stitching together a pattern with leather. A special machine would most likely be needed, though. Many sewing machines today aren’t built to stitch leather.
The leather warehouse I went to will ship hides! But you’d be taking a little chance on the hide color as they vary as much as wood grain and fingerprints. The color and type of process used would be fairly uniform, but hide shapes, scars, defects, and occasional holes or thin spots would vary. Don’t think of it as fabric. I’d suggest ordering a few samples before ordering. Purchasing based on a web photo can be difficult. Let me know if it works out for you!
It's top grain semi-aniline leather, not "split grain". It's not as heavy as what you'd use in campaign furniture, but is standard for upholstery. It's roughly 1.5mm thick (.07"), depending on which part of the hide you measure.
One is a Bostich upholstery stapler. Not always enough power to get through the leather, probably fine on cloth. I’d go with a pneumatic upholstery stapler for thicker materials. Mine is a Senco, I believe. Possibly a PC. Look on Amazon. www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-US58-22-Gauge-C-Crown-Upholstery/dp/B00004SBC3/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=MLGBP3VHDKD0&keywords=porter+cable+staple+gun+1%2F4+inch+crown&qid=1659746553&sprefix=port+staple+gun+1%2F4+inch+crown%2Caps%2C1563&sr=8-4
There are actually four videos in the series that address slip seat upholstery. This is the playlist link: m.ruclips.net/p/PLG54YDR0_HPjxSqIroqm7aFjAp2RSe1sO Start with the video on building a slip seat frame. “Under the Leather” details all the components - well - under the leather! Hope this helps!
When laying out on a full hide, can the portion of the leather corresponding to the spine be in the show portion of the work? Or, should the spine be part of the scrap or what gets wrapped under and stapled?
I’m sure you could put the “spine” down the center. I cut my chair parts from the sides for an even look. I’d suggest you call the good folks at Texas Leather and ask their advice. They were super people to deal with.
@@SkyValleyStudio Just to pass back what I've learned, in case it helps others: I checked with Texas Leather and a couple other places. They have said that it's fine to lay out across the spine. I mentioned in one query that I was trying to figure out how to store a whole hide when I don't have much space in a furniture shop and one source said that it is hard to manage whole hides and they often receive whole hides from the tannery folded across the spine. Also, for furniture leather, the leather tends to be soft and easy (easier?) to remove creases. This person mentioned that, for some leathers, there is a way to use an iron to remove creases. This person also included a sketch that showed how the grain flows parallel to the spine across the back, then bends into curves that sort of reach up from the legs and run parallel to the spine. The grain just becomes a swirly, loopy sort of thing in the belly. So, laying out across the spine was fine and, if there was a crease, you could probably get it to work out. Hope this helps someone and thanks for your reply!
Hi Val. Sorry. These were new construction. So the focus was on how to cover the slip seat. Each chair may be put together differently. I’d start by looking under the seat for screws that might be holding the slip seat on. Removing the old covering is most likely as simple as pulling staples or nails. I have a full video on upholstering iPad to the final leather covering - “Under the Leather”.
I believe I used 5/8”. Take into account the thickness of the layers. Some prefer to use upholstery nails rather than staples. I just found staples to work OK, and I don’t have nails or a tack hammer.
The cabinet is loosely based off of other cabinets, but the size corresponds to materials on hand. Oak carcase with dovetailed corners. Drawers are piston fit each in their own compartment to keep dust out. Edging behind the doors on the interior of the cabinet to seal the gaps from letting dust in, and overlapping center where the doors meet up. The door panels and drawer fronts are a 1/4" veneer of spalted maple milled from our own trees. Glued to 1/4" oak plywood. The divisions and holders within the cabinet are laid out according to the tools to be stored in it, planning first for the hand planes. Here's a general idea of what was followed: www.finewoodworking.com/videoworkshop/2012/09/build-a-hanging-tool-cabinet
You commented that the stretchy direction of the leather runs across the width of the hide (perpendicular to the spine) and that you wanted the stretchy direction side to side on the seat. Your layout seems 90 degrees away from that, so I've misunderstood something. Could you please set me straight?
Stretch is perpendicular to the spine of the cow. I want the stretch on the chair to go across the chair seat side to side so it doesn’t sag as much over time with use. Maybe I misstated something?
@@SkyValleyStudio It's just that at 5:27, it looks like the layout has front to back perpendicular to the spine, yet perpendicular to the spine is the stretchy direction. Thank you for helping with this. I've never known which way to orient the stretch and, since I'm better with wood than textiles, I have been unsure which is the stretchy direction, even when I tug on the material.
Hi “Coe Vad”. I don’t recall right off hand, but I believe it was about $300 US. I just know it was about half the cost of more local resources, it’s great quality, and the people at the warehouse were wonderful!
I believe that's covered in the video, but we went to a place in Garland, Texas. The flight there paid for itself in savings with a whole hide purchase. Texas Leather Goods (not an affiliate) www.texasleathergoods.com
@@SkyValleyStudio beauty full. I despise the last decades where one has to be a scientific OR a craftsman. I dream of accumulating knowledge by hand and mind .
They have to be some of the most difficult upholstery angles to do without stitching. I can’t imagine doing them in something less stretchy and pliable.
@@SkyValleyStudio Are the notched corners part of the style? I was taught to take the corner off at 45 degrees rather than notch, but I wasn't doing Greene & Greene. I think yours look good. I came here to learn about leather because, for the first time, I'm responsible for finding my own. Your video helped immensely.
Thank you, excellent presentation, I appreciate the detail you have shared as well as the insight.
Glad you enjoyed it! If you're doing your own slip seats, there are other videos in the series that detail making a frame and the parts that go into the rest of the layers. Also making the tools you might need.
Explained very throughly, thanks for the tips.
Thanks, Debbie. "Under the Leather" explains the other layers to the upholstery.
Great one. I have some chairs to restore, I suspect the things I've seen here to be really usefull. Thanks a lot!
There are several other parts to the upholstery portion, starting with making tools to do the job. Another details making new seat frames, one for doing the webbing, and another that’s “under the leather” detailing the layers to get good padding. Hope these help. Feel free to post questions if anything is unclear.
Thank you for this helpful video!
You’re welcome! It’s one I wished was out there when I first did these. It’s a part of a whole series, with several parts on making a slip seat and the tools you need.
Incredibly detailed, thank you! Stay safe, and keep creating!
Thanks for your support and motivation! Glad you found this informative. If you haven’t seen it yet , you may also be interested in “Under the Leather” - details of slip seat upholstery.
would love to see more of the actual process ( it would make a longer video but some learn visually ) Thanks so much for this video
This is part of a series on chair construction. There are several more before and after this one just on upholstery. Playlist link: ruclips.net/p/PLG54YDR0_HPjxSqIroqm7aFjAp2RSe1sO
Slip Seat starts here: ruclips.net/video/HQfDpngvD6I/видео.html
Excellent. I purchased a thick rough suede leather log carrier . I want repurpose it and use to reupholster my office chair.
I’m sure that would work, but the thick leather may not be very pliable. Certainly good for sling type chairs. Good luck! Hope it goes well.
I plan to use synthetic leather for my plastic office chair project, but this was super cool and interesting anyway!
Thanks! It should be fairly the same process, except that with vinyl you can stretch it over those tough spots and remove some of the wrinkles by warming it up with a hair dryer. It’s also a lot easier if the vinyl is warm and pliable. I covered a motorcycle seat (before we made RUclips videos) and it worked fairly well. Leather is easier in that regard. It doesn’t get stiff when it’s cold.
I usually sub my upholstery out to someone else but I may gamble on one if it doesn't look like a monster! Great vid!
Somewhere along the way I read that slip seat upholstery used to be part of the skill set of chair makers. So I just went for it! Not as bad as I thought! But there are several parts to the upholstery series. Thanks for watching and commenting!
tthanks for all this detail!!
are you using a brad nailer ?
I’m using a power stapler. If I had gone with nails I would have used upholstery nails and hammer tacker.
Great video! What size staples and stapler did you use?
I used what I had. I tried a hand stapler but it didn’t have enough power. Don’t recall off hand what I used, but I thought I addressed that - perhaps in an earlier video in the series. Start with the one on the seat frame and go from there.
Look at “Under the Leather”.
Very helpful, thank you! Ok I'm ready to do this, it's gonna look GREAT!
Show us your progress!
Thanks for sharing!
One of my better series, IMO. There are other parts to it, too, starting with the tools needed. And a good one on the layers “Under the Leather”
What I wouldn't give to learn from you!
It’s all here, little by little. Check out my playlists. If you have questions please ask! Glad you are finding my videos helpful!
It’s all here, little by little. Check out our playlists. If you have questions please ask! Glad you are finding our videos helpful.
Great content! What is your opinion on stitching together leathers of contrasting color? I love the look of Arts and Crafts furniture in it's simple elegance. The leatherwork is one thing that drew me to the style in tandem with the joinery style of this type of furniture. I want to make a Morris chair with some leatherwork on the cushions with armpads to match.
The traditional Morris chairs had a single, very thick leather, from what I recall. My grandparents had two of them in their living room. But there is nothing wrong in deviating from tradition to create a look that you like. I could see an accomplished person stitching together a pattern with leather. A special machine would most likely be needed, though. Many sewing machines today aren’t built to stitch leather.
Beautiful ! Now where do I get this leather in Miami, have 6 Stanley rinsing chairs I think are best to put leather as fabric + kids = a mess 💆🏼♀️
The leather warehouse I went to will ship hides! But you’d be taking a little chance on the hide color as they vary as much as wood grain and fingerprints. The color and type of process used would be fairly uniform, but hide shapes, scars, defects, and occasional holes or thin spots would vary. Don’t think of it as fabric. I’d suggest ordering a few samples before ordering. Purchasing based on a web photo can be difficult. Let me know if it works out for you!
Thanks for a great video! What thickness of leather are you working with in this video?
It's top grain semi-aniline leather, not "split grain". It's not as heavy as what you'd use in campaign furniture, but is standard for upholstery. It's roughly 1.5mm thick (.07"), depending on which part of the hide you measure.
Thank u very much. can u please share the two staplers you used? any links to them?
One is a Bostich upholstery stapler. Not always enough power to get through the leather, probably fine on cloth.
I’d go with a pneumatic upholstery stapler for thicker materials. Mine is a Senco, I believe. Possibly a PC. Look on Amazon.
www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-US58-22-Gauge-C-Crown-Upholstery/dp/B00004SBC3/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=MLGBP3VHDKD0&keywords=porter+cable+staple+gun+1%2F4+inch+crown&qid=1659746553&sprefix=port+staple+gun+1%2F4+inch+crown%2Caps%2C1563&sr=8-4
Very interesting but would like to se the upholstering step-by-step please. You may have it somewhere
There are actually four videos in the series that address slip seat upholstery. This is the playlist link:
m.ruclips.net/p/PLG54YDR0_HPjxSqIroqm7aFjAp2RSe1sO
Start with the video on building a slip seat frame. “Under the Leather” details all the components - well - under the leather! Hope this helps!
When laying out on a full hide, can the portion of the leather corresponding to the spine be in the show portion of the work? Or, should the spine be part of the scrap or what gets wrapped under and stapled?
I’m sure you could put the “spine” down the center. I cut my chair parts from the sides for an even look. I’d suggest you call the good folks at Texas Leather and ask their advice. They were super people to deal with.
@@SkyValleyStudio Just to pass back what I've learned, in case it helps others: I checked with Texas Leather and a couple other places. They have said that it's fine to lay out across the spine. I mentioned in one query that I was trying to figure out how to store a whole hide when I don't have much space in a furniture shop and one source said that it is hard to manage whole hides and they often receive whole hides from the tannery folded across the spine. Also, for furniture leather, the leather tends to be soft and easy (easier?) to remove creases. This person mentioned that, for some leathers, there is a way to use an iron to remove creases. This person also included a sketch that showed how the grain flows parallel to the spine across the back, then bends into curves that sort of reach up from the legs and run parallel to the spine. The grain just becomes a swirly, loopy sort of thing in the belly. So, laying out across the spine was fine and, if there was a crease, you could probably get it to work out. Hope this helps someone and thanks for your reply!
Hello, do you have a video on how to remove the bottoms from the chair.
Hi Val. Sorry. These were new construction. So the focus was on how to cover the slip seat. Each chair may be put together differently. I’d start by looking under the seat for screws that might be holding the slip seat on. Removing the old covering is most likely as simple as pulling staples or nails. I have a full video on upholstering iPad to the final leather covering - “Under the Leather”.
@@SkyValleyStudio Thank you for responding.
Can you tell us what sized staples you used?
I believe I used 5/8”. Take into account the thickness of the layers. Some prefer to use upholstery nails rather than staples. I just found staples to work OK, and I don’t have nails or a tack hammer.
Do you have plans or know where to get them for the tool cabinet behine you?
The cabinet is loosely based off of other cabinets, but the size corresponds to materials on hand. Oak carcase with dovetailed corners.
Drawers are piston fit each in their own compartment to keep dust out.
Edging behind the doors on the interior of the cabinet to seal the gaps from letting dust in, and overlapping center where the doors meet up.
The door panels and drawer fronts are a 1/4" veneer of spalted maple milled from our own trees. Glued to 1/4" oak plywood.
The divisions and holders within the cabinet are laid out according to the tools to be stored in it, planning first for the hand planes.
Here's a general idea of what was followed:
www.finewoodworking.com/videoworkshop/2012/09/build-a-hanging-tool-cabinet
Another one to put n favorites
The previous one is a better one for slip seat upholstery in general. I’m glad you found this beneficial!
@@SkyValleyStudio cheers ! Will look at it for sure . Already I have major restauration on a chair and I am not to sure how to even start it
I'm working with a chair with not corners 🤣 wish me 🤞 luck!
? Not corners? Can’t figure that one out! But hope it goes well for you!
You commented that the stretchy direction of the leather runs across the width of the hide (perpendicular to the spine) and that you wanted the stretchy direction side to side on the seat. Your layout seems 90 degrees away from that, so I've misunderstood something. Could you please set me straight?
Stretch is perpendicular to the spine of the cow. I want the stretch on the chair to go across the chair seat side to side so it doesn’t sag as much over time with use. Maybe I misstated something?
@@SkyValleyStudio It's just that at 5:27, it looks like the layout has front to back perpendicular to the spine, yet perpendicular to the spine is the stretchy direction. Thank you for helping with this. I've never known which way to orient the stretch and, since I'm better with wood than textiles, I have been unsure which is the stretchy direction, even when I tug on the material.
Could you say around how much your 65 sq ft hide cost?
Hi “Coe Vad”. I don’t recall right off hand, but I believe it was about $300 US. I just know it was about half the cost of more local resources, it’s great quality, and the people at the warehouse were wonderful!
where can I buy the leather?
I believe that's covered in the video, but we went to a place in Garland, Texas. The flight there paid for itself in savings with a whole hide purchase. Texas Leather Goods (not an affiliate) www.texasleathergoods.com
Could have sworn this was Dave Foley..
He's my male counterpart doppelgänger - or maybe twin separated at birth.
Damn! Is there something you don’t do !!:))
It was my goal in life to become a renaissance woman when I grew up. I still have a ways to go. Glad you’re enjoying our videos!
@@SkyValleyStudio beauty full. I despise the last decades where one has to be a scientific OR a craftsman. I dream of accumulating knowledge by hand and mind .
these angles don't look well...
They have to be some of the most difficult upholstery angles to do without stitching. I can’t imagine doing them in something less stretchy and pliable.
@@SkyValleyStudio Are the notched corners part of the style? I was taught to take the corner off at 45 degrees rather than notch, but I wasn't doing Greene & Greene. I think yours look good. I came here to learn about leather because, for the first time, I'm responsible for finding my own. Your video helped immensely.