Is My Guitar Action Too High?

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  • Опубликовано: 2 ноя 2024
  • Robbie demonstrates several ways to modify a classical guitar with high action.
    Products used in this video:
    Digital String Height Gauge - www.lmii.com/m...
    Fret Pullers - www.lmii.com/f...
    Sanding Bar and Fret Leveler - www.lmii.com/4...
    Fret Saw - www.lmii.com/f...
    Stikit Sandpaper - www.lmii.com/1...
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Комментарии • 26

  • @DougHinVA
    @DougHinVA Год назад +4

    I have adjusted fret 12 action to 4MM gap, and sometimes it is OK to be a tiny bit high. So the nut slots may be lowered just a bit to make a comfy 'feel'. Removing a bit of bridge wood has to be done carefully, so the client is smart to have a trained luthier do the job!

  • @jaceklisik
    @jaceklisik 25 дней назад

    Hello. Where can you buy exactly the same instrument for measuring string height as shown in this video?

  • @benkone420
    @benkone420 5 дней назад

    this video was awesome. thank you.

  • @jamesfink9658
    @jamesfink9658 8 месяцев назад

    I inherited a Cordoba Solista CD and took it to my guitar tech for a tune up, who does excellent work on my electric guitars and Taylor steel string acoustics. He said everything out there about a 3-4 mm range of string height on a classical guitar at the E strings on the 12th fret is nonsense, and it should be more like 1.5-2 mm. Something about the higher height is because of underbow and with a quality guitar like I have he can easily make it 1.5-2 mm with no buzzing. I am new to nylon string guitar playing and his advice seems to contradict everything out there, but like I said, he has never failed me when it comes to my other guitars. Any thoughts about what he is telling me?

    • @rsa4510
      @rsa4510 6 месяцев назад +1

      That seems low frankly. I'd try it at 3.5, 2.5 first and see how you like it. As you lower the action on a classical guitar, you change the way the strings excite the top surface of the guitar. The result can be that you lose volume in the sound. Some concert guitars are deliberately high in the action to project more sound and allow you to dig in more without buzzing. It's a matter of taste at the end of the day.

  • @thewayithastobe
    @thewayithastobe Год назад +1

    Why would you remove fingerboard material off something supposedly already leveled, when you could just replace the saddle?

  • @indonesiaji
    @indonesiaji 3 года назад +6

    How I can do that? My yamaha is so high

  • @muhemmedabdalmejid7577
    @muhemmedabdalmejid7577 5 месяцев назад

    My friend where location I want to come in i have same problem in my guitar 🎸?

  • @lawcch
    @lawcch 5 лет назад +4

    hi Robert, How do I adjust the action by filing the saddle and nut to different height to prevent buzzing on the strings onto the fret.

    • @luthiersmercantileinternat5786
      @luthiersmercantileinternat5786  5 лет назад +4

      If you want to lower the action at the 12th fret you need to lower the saddle height in a 2 to 1 ratio. For example, if the action at the 12th fret needs to be lowered .5mm then you need to lower the saddle 1mm. The opposite is also true for increasing the action. However, rather then lowering the saddle height you would need to increase the saddle height by 1mm. This can be done by placing a shim under the saddle or making a new saddle.
      The action at the 12th fret and the nut can be measured using LMI's string height gauge. www.lmii.com/measuring-tools/2869-lmi-digital-string-height-gauge.html
      On my steel string guitars I like an action at the first fret of about .020 on the 6th string and get progressively lower to arrive at an action of about .015 on the first string. If you need to lower the action at the nut use the appropriate size LMI nut file to gently deepen the string slot at the nut. If you need to increase the action then I would make a new nut. www.lmii.com/fretting-tools/2857-nut-files-double-sided-set-of-3.html
      I hope this helps.
      Happy Building!
      Robbie

  • @repoman7804
    @repoman7804 Год назад

    Since you didn't have to touch the saddle, are you implying that the action adjustment all happened at the nut?

    • @OBrienGuitars
      @OBrienGuitars Год назад

      The action at the 12th fret is. It adjusted at the nut end but rather at the saddle. I planed a different at into the fretboard and got lucky enough that I didn’t need to adjust the saddle I order to have correct action at the 12th fret.

    • @repoman7804
      @repoman7804 Год назад

      @@OBrienGuitars Sorry, but I'm not quite sure I understand your reply. Are you saying that you cut the nut slots deeper, which would have made the action too low at the nut end, but which you compensated for by planing the fretboard lower at that end to match? Were the new frets perhaps also taller than the old frets, and that also contributed to reducing the distance between the strings and the fret?

    • @OBrienGuitars
      @OBrienGuitars Год назад

      @@repoman7804 The goal to this type of repair is to change the neck angle. Changing the neck angle automatically gets me the correct action at the 12th fret when I do a setup. A setup may include making a new saddle to get that action. The original nut can sometimes be salvaged as it most likely just needs to be lowered due to the new neck angle. I do this from the bottom of the nut. The action at the 12th fret is dialed in at the saddle location and not the nut location. Since you increase the neck angle you most likely will need to make a new saddle. The new frets also contribute to the action at the 12th fret but only minimally. The key is the neck angle. I don't count on the new fret height to get me where I need to be when it comes to action at the 12th fret. Hope this helps

    • @repoman7804
      @repoman7804 Год назад

      @@OBrienGuitars Thanks for the clarifications. It all makes sense to me now.
      "The original nut can sometimes be salvaged as it most likely just needs to be lowered due to the new neck angle. I do this from the bottom of the nut." is the answer that I was looking for as I was thinking, "This is like a neck reset, except the nut hasn't moved from its original geometry," so I was wondering what adjustment you made since you don't describe that step in the video. Sanding off the bottom makes more sense than cutting the slots deeper as it saves a lot of time, and not changing the appearance of the nut is an additional benefit. "Since you increase the neck angle you most likely will need to make a new saddle" makes sense, too -- since you lowered the nut, the saddle might now be too low, though that didn't happen in this case. If you did need a higher saddle, I guess you could shim it, but since this saddle is uncompensated, making a brand new one probably wouldn't take that long.
      Had your customer decided to shave the bridge to lower the saddle instead of this solution, would there be any issue with break angle off the back of the saddle?

  • @shrutipasari9624
    @shrutipasari9624 2 года назад +1

    On 6th string :-
    1 fret : 1 mm
    12 fret 4.5 mm
    Is it ok ? Or any suggestions

    • @laputtaa9956
      @laputtaa9956 2 года назад

      Usually 12 fret 6 string is around 3mm

    • @HotZTrain
      @HotZTrain 7 месяцев назад

      @@laputtaa9956 Yeah...way too high.

  • @pastorlito2004
    @pastorlito2004 3 года назад +2

    Is 3.5 too low?

    • @OBrienGuitars
      @OBrienGuitars 3 года назад +1

      It is lower than a lot of classical guitars out there but I set my action up at 3.5mm on the 6th string and 2.5 on the 1st string.

    • @farisakmal5437
      @farisakmal5437 3 года назад +8

      no, my gpa is 3.5 and my professor says it's pretty good

  • @roddydykes7053
    @roddydykes7053 3 года назад

    Easy!

  • @hadiazizi4536
    @hadiazizi4536 4 года назад

    You look like NSA trainer on Snowden movie.

  • @ariyanthenerd1371
    @ariyanthenerd1371 3 года назад +1

    Or just take it to a pro

  • @HotZTrain
    @HotZTrain 9 месяцев назад

    IMO...3mm is a good action for a classical guitar. There is really NO standard.