Same. That saw to like 3 strokes and it was through that piece. I’d be there half the day with my saw but, we are talking apples and oranges since I got a crappy modern hand saw that can’t be sharpened.
Can openers have a metal disk. Remove that disc and the holder and screw them on at the end of a piece of dowel rod. As a depth gauge you can use a nut-washer or a simple nut. All of the above can be bought for super cheap. The can opener can be the cheapest kind (so long as it has that disc, you're cutting wood, not metal, tho i scored a cheap one that had a decent wheel that can scribe even metal), the dowel rod is cheap, and you're left with an extra piece for your collection (if you've the nerve to ask, you can even go to the wood chop shop (in major stores that sell wood) and ask the guy there if he has any scraps or broken pieces, most will pass those for free, got a tie down of at least 30ish pieces that way), the screw, well, cheap too, and the nut (the bigger the dowel rod, the better) also cheap. If you don't cheap out on the can opener, or get lucky like i did, you can get a really hard wheel, and this project can turn in to a multi surface tool. Mine can score very tough metal. Also, you can salvage the other wheel (the one with the spikes) and make a point lay down. Very useful if you want to drill holes repeatedly in to a surface and not think much over it. You score the line with the star wheel and simply count every other hole (depending on how spaced you want them).
I always hated slotted screws but I didn't want to throw them away. Watching this and the followup-video, I now finally know, why I still have them. Thanks a lot for sharing your great tool!
You do many fine things. As a Danish cabinetmaker, it is interesting to see that you sometimes do things differently than we do in Scandinavia. In this video I notice that you turn the mortise chisel backwards. It is standard to keep the inclined surface down, where I come from. Your result is impeccably anyway. I translate with Google, and hope it makes sense :) Good greetings from Denmark
I’m a knife maker and in my early years and before I had a drill press.... I struggled with squaring my holes for pins.... the block of wood on top is genius... I literally watched him do it and looked to h The heavens saying why am I so stupid!? Such a simple fix!! So effective..... god made wood then he made sellers!!!!!!!
Yet another great video, if this was any other channels content they no doubt would had used hundreds of £/$/€ of tooling just the shape the block of wood. It's what makes me come back time and again, I don't have or need a vast collection of tools to take part in the projects and get "making". All else I can say, Paul you had better be training someone or never retire.
Even easier than cutting a square notch from a corner for a perpendicular drill guide, is to use 2 pieces, held, clamped or fastened together, in an offset to make the square notch from the 2 pieces. As long as the ends, sides and faces are square cut (as is his block here), the notch will be also.
I'm always amazed at how you can make something from just scraps or little bits of material. And I just want to say I just received your book a few days ago and how excited I am to start reading it's just finding the time.
Oh, I love this kind of video! I live in a two room flat, so a workshop obviously isn't an option for me...but I still like to make stuff! There are very few videos around, where you can pick up tips how to get a more professional result without the kind of equipment I can't use here!
Paul is AMAZING! If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery then people love you Paul because you’re being ripped off left and right. I’m talking to you “Rex figures it out”
Indeed, if you're time-poor it's also a solution! It's faster to make this than go search online for sellers and wait; for me to drive to buy it in person would take far far longer.
+Paul Sellers- sorry Paul, can`t believe that, I accept you`ve more carpentry knowledge than me in you little toe, but after 35 years experience myself, that screw WILL turn if enough pressure is applied & there`s the problem, it`s a potential problem that could let us down big time, no marking gauge has ever `shifted` once locked for me, but I just couldn`t trust that set up, nope! no way no chance I`d trust that!
+d3lsl0w I made a bunch of these and they work fantastic. The only trouble I had was finding slotted screws...in America they're basically gone now. I did find some in my dad's old shop that are 50+ years old. I also slotted a phillips with a dremel tool and it worked great too. thanks again to Paul, et al.
hardwood + really tight pilot hole and there is no way for it to turn. i even use unsharpened screwhead and never managed to turn the screw. the torque on the shaft is too little. the only downside is the short marking depth
@@1066wastrel if you are applying enough pressure to move the screw you are applying too much pressure. It's the same as using a marking gauge no matter how sharp it is, if you force it through the task it's going to wander. You let the cutting edge do the work you just guide it.
The benchtop has been rejuvenated, or maybe a worn sacrificial surface has been removed and a new notched block installed beside the vise. By the way, I've wondered why the vise is mounted ~12-16" from the end of the bench, instead of at the end. Is there any advantage to that position?
Very impressed by the skills shown at carving those curves... how do you **write** the name of the iron tool you used to "sand" the wood? That thing is powerful.
What about using a hole saw and getting it perfectly round? They usually have 1/4 " drills, dut if the hole is too big for your screw, you can bush it with a dowel.
+bomaite1 You could certainly do that if you have a hole saw and wanted, but I personally prefer a slightly oblong shape as it fits in the hand better. But, either would work.
+Muhammad Nur There's more information here: paulsellers.com/2015/07/rasps-and-wood-two-key-ingredients/, paulsellers.com/2013/07/aurou-rasps-good-on-the-wood-and-good-in-the-hand/
Great video as usual. I've seen you use the old screw in the block trick when you did your clock videos. I've been using this shortcut and it works wonders. Could I ask if you could check out woodbywrights newest video. We are starting a hand tool challenge and would love you input and possibly help spread the word of what we would like to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thx again.
You really think a hammer and chisel is the best solution for making a rounded block out of a square one? I have saws and Sanders that make quick work of that sort of thing
The benchtop has been rejuvenated, or maybe a worn sacrificial surface has been removed and a new notched block installed beside the vise. By the way, I've wondered why the vise is mounted ~12-16" from the end of the bench, instead of at the end. Is there any advantage to that position?
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
The simpler the solution, the wiser he seems.
These videos just prove that I have never once in my life handled a truly sharp tool.
Same. That saw to like 3 strokes and it was through that piece. I’d be there half the day with my saw but, we are talking apples and oranges since I got a crappy modern hand saw that can’t be sharpened.
Can openers have a metal disk. Remove that disc and the holder and screw them on at the end of a piece of dowel rod. As a depth gauge you can use a nut-washer or a simple nut.
All of the above can be bought for super cheap. The can opener can be the cheapest kind (so long as it has that disc, you're cutting wood, not metal, tho i scored a cheap one that had a decent wheel that can scribe even metal), the dowel rod is cheap, and you're left with an extra piece for your collection (if you've the nerve to ask, you can even go to the wood chop shop (in major stores that sell wood) and ask the guy there if he has any scraps or broken pieces, most will pass those for free, got a tie down of at least 30ish pieces that way), the screw, well, cheap too, and the nut (the bigger the dowel rod, the better) also cheap.
If you don't cheap out on the can opener, or get lucky like i did, you can get a really hard wheel, and this project can turn in to a multi surface tool. Mine can score very tough metal. Also, you can salvage the other wheel (the one with the spikes) and make a point lay down. Very useful if you want to drill holes repeatedly in to a surface and not think much over it. You score the line with the star wheel and simply count every other hole (depending on how spaced you want them).
图片，showmore picture!
It is always pleasure to look someone working when they make it look so easy because their skills.
This man right here never ceases to amaze me!
I always hated slotted screws but I didn't want to throw them away. Watching this and the followup-video, I now finally know, why I still have them.
Thanks a lot for sharing your great tool!
this is mindblowing. such a simple tehnique that does a very precise job
You do many fine things. As a Danish cabinetmaker, it is interesting to see that you sometimes do things differently than we do in Scandinavia. In this video I notice that you turn the mortise chisel backwards. It is standard to keep the inclined surface down, where I come from. Your result is impeccably anyway.
I translate with Google, and hope it makes sense :)
Good greetings from Denmark
the real carpenters beading & marking tool .. thanks for sharing .
I’m a knife maker and in my early years and before I had a drill press.... I struggled with squaring my holes for pins.... the block of wood on top is genius... I literally watched him do it and looked to h
The heavens saying why am I so stupid!? Such a simple fix!! So effective..... god made wood then he made sellers!!!!!!!
Yet another great video, if this was any other channels content they no doubt would had used hundreds of £/$/€ of tooling just the shape the block of wood. It's what makes me come back time and again, I don't have or need a vast collection of tools to take part in the projects and get "making". All else I can say, Paul you had better be training someone or never retire.
Oh wow! There is a lot of great info there.
Even easier than cutting a square notch from a corner for a perpendicular drill guide, is to use 2 pieces, held, clamped or fastened together, in an offset to make the square notch from the 2 pieces. As long as the ends, sides and faces are square cut (as is his block here), the notch will be also.
I'm always amazed at how you can make something from just scraps or little bits of material. And I just want to say I just received your book a few days ago and how excited I am to start reading it's just finding the time.
Oh, I love this kind of video! I live in a two room flat, so a workshop obviously isn't an option for me...but I still like to make stuff! There are very few videos around, where you can pick up tips how to get a more professional result without the kind of equipment I can't use here!
Just got your new book in the mail here in Texas the other week. Really enjoying it!
great. thanks for letting me know.
Your best video on down to earth yet very effective woodworking. 👍👌🎫🔨
Today I used this tool to great effect, to cut the beads on the curvy oak frames of a traditional ship. It works!
Simple, but effective, thanks for sharing.
Very simple and efficient !
Paul is AMAZING!
If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery then people love you Paul because you’re being ripped off left and right.
I’m talking to you “Rex figures it out”
Always a pleasure Sir!
Thank you for your helpful vids. Please explain why you round your poor man's marking guage vs. keeping it square?
At 8:26 he mentions that he's shaped it to fit his hand.
Last time I cut a door knob hole there was one of these laying there afterwards.. I put a screw in it and it was finished.. NICE!
Poetry in motion. Thank you.
Excellent paul i'll make one tomorrow thank you.
I'm gonna make one of these. thanks for sharing
Geniuosly simple and extremely accurate
My high school (1965) woodwork teacher made something very similar (the wood part was larger) to be used as a router plane.
And you don't even have to be poor, just like making your own tools! So simple and effective!
Indeed, if you're time-poor it's also a solution! It's faster to make this than go search online for sellers and wait; for me to drive to buy it in person would take far far longer.
i really enjoy the way you work, ist berry inspirating for me thank for the video.
Can you do one for a proper adjustable gauge?
It so simple, but i would never have thought of it myself.
I guess this is why I am subscribed to your channel. :-D
who would have thought that a screw in a piece of wood could be so useful
Love your work sir
Nice! Thank you so much for sharing!!
An old standby. A variant is to open a throat on the block and use it as a router for hinge mortises.
Outstanding ....
Thanks.
Paul what is that new marking knife you're using? It looks lovely.
Does the screw not turn when pressure is applied while trying to mark?
+d3lsl0w Nope.
+Paul Sellers- sorry Paul, can`t believe that, I accept you`ve more carpentry knowledge than me in you little toe, but after 35 years experience myself, that screw WILL turn if enough pressure is applied & there`s the problem, it`s a potential problem that could let us down big time, no marking gauge has ever `shifted` once locked for me, but I just couldn`t trust that set up, nope! no way no chance I`d trust that!
+d3lsl0w I made a bunch of these and they work fantastic. The only trouble I had was finding slotted screws...in America they're basically gone now. I did find some in my dad's old shop that are 50+ years old. I also slotted a phillips with a dremel tool and it worked great too. thanks again to Paul, et al.
hardwood + really tight pilot hole and there is no way for it to turn. i even use unsharpened screwhead and never managed to turn the screw. the torque on the shaft is too little. the only downside is the short marking depth
@@1066wastrel if you are applying enough pressure to move the screw you are applying too much pressure. It's the same as using a marking gauge no matter how sharp it is, if you force it through the task it's going to wander. You let the cutting edge do the work you just guide it.
Really a great explanation. Thank you for sharing and demonstrating how to make it.
Was the previous life of your flat tip screwdriver once a spade bit?
+MRrwmac I had that thought as well. I'm commenting so I can see the answer if he replies
+MRrwmac I'm curious now too :-)
No, his screwdriver started life as a screwdriver. You can buy them just like that from specialty woodworking stores.
those are very old style of screwdriver, my great grandfather had tons of them unfortunately they all got chucked out😭 I wish I had them now!!
It is a London pattern spindle screwdriver.
Brilliant!
Question: What is the same little tool on your right with (2) screws in it used for?
+Will Merritt It's a mortice gauge which will be shown in the episode that goes up this Friday.
The benchtop has been rejuvenated, or maybe a worn sacrificial surface has been removed and a new notched block installed beside the vise. By the way, I've wondered why the vise is mounted ~12-16" from the end of the bench, instead of at the end. Is there any advantage to that position?
It's right near the leg, good support for beatings!
It's really cool
Gracias.
Very impressed by the skills shown at carving those curves... how do you **write** the name of the iron tool you used to "sand" the wood? That thing is powerful.
+Damian Reloaded It's a Rasp.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rasp
thanks! And thanks to google translate now I know in spanish it's called _escofina_ (wtf?) ^_^
nice very very nice
Thanks.
Genius
brilliant!
What about using a hole saw and getting it perfectly round? They usually have 1/4 " drills, dut if the hole is too big for your screw, you can bush it with a dowel.
+bomaite1 You could certainly do that if you have a hole saw and wanted, but I personally prefer a slightly oblong shape as it fits in the hand better. But, either would work.
Mr Sellers, what wood do you use, what tree?
Hi Pedja, in this particular video Paul uses pine.
Paul Sellers! Fancy using a cordless drill to make that hole!
Ha ha, just kidding, Thanks for the tutorial, I will try this out soon.
Hi Paul, what type of rasp you're using?
+Muhammad Nur I believe it's an Aurora brand rasp. Not sure about coarseness.
+uaaerospace thanks
+Muhammad Nur There's more information here: paulsellers.com/2015/07/rasps-and-wood-two-key-ingredients/, paulsellers.com/2013/07/aurou-rasps-good-on-the-wood-and-good-in-the-hand/
+Paul Sellers Thanks Paul!
Great video as usual. I've seen you use the old screw in the block trick when you did your clock videos. I've been using this shortcut and it works wonders.
Could I ask if you could check out woodbywrights newest video. We are starting a hand tool challenge and would love you input and possibly help spread the word of what we would like to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thx again.
Ha! nice marking knife.
simplisity
You should have posed this on April 1st.
You really think a hammer and chisel is the best solution for making a rounded block out of a square one? I have saws and Sanders that make quick work of that sort of thing
????, a motorized tool? I've seen a few of you videos, and quite astoinded by the lack of powertools.
Your the Brst
he maybe hamborne
Why/when would you want to bead wood?
A screw in a block of wood...
*closes all other tabs with guides for making fancy, over-complicated marking gauges...
Woe you milked more than 9 minutes putting a screw in a small block of wood !!!
Very simple and efficient !
The benchtop has been rejuvenated, or maybe a worn sacrificial surface has been removed and a new notched block installed beside the vise. By the way, I've wondered why the vise is mounted ~12-16" from the end of the bench, instead of at the end. Is there any advantage to that position?
yes inside the leg is more solid and in 54 years I have yet to find a better position.