Unrelated but can I just say how refreshing it is to see a woman talk about a garment not fitting her anymore like it is no big deal. Because it is no big deal and we should really normalize that idea.
Right? Though it also helps that she doesnt have to deal with another Person immediately replying "oh but im sure with a Bit of exercise it will fit again!" ... Ma'am, i was Just making an observation that my butt doesnt fit my 2019 short Shorts anymore, i never Said thats a Bad thing. I hate how normalised it is to complain about your bodyshape that people immediately assume you want some motivational speech. Why cant we Just make an observation?
@@annabeinglazy5580 Especially because body shape and size changing over time is just what bodies *do*. Especially areas like the bust - boobs can have a whole mind of their own about size and shape and positioning as you go through life due to changes in hormones and so on, it's just A Thing That Happens. (I think mine are trying to see how much money they can get me to spend on different bra sizes, personally.)
I'd also like to say she has a lovely figure. Undergarments make such a difference on how the outer clothes and styles fit....and choosing the right undergarments for the foundation of even what we wear today is important. Hooray for different styles and explorations of fashion, and hooray for celebrating beautiful womanhood.
I don’t think it’s unrelated at all! It’s completely intrinsic to the conversation about women’s bodies and fit. If we had more detailed discussions about that with modern clothing more women would understand why it can be so difficult to find well fitting clothing made commercially.
Also, I think I finally understand why the costumes in Bridgerton looked so "off" to me. Whenever they showed the undergarments, everyone had corsets shaped more like your last ones, with that exact bust shape, but all the dresses had necklines from earlier styles. When you had the white gathered gown with that corset, something just clicked for me! Watching the show I thought the bust was slightly exaggerated, it looked too lifted and too high, and you hit the nail on the head, it *looks* uncomfortable, it looks like the chest is compressed. The more I study period fashion and costume design in media, the more I realize that silhouettes are absolutely essential to get right, in order to make the garments look right.
Bridgerton's costumes also looked like they didn't fit. They had a plus sized girl wearing the right style of dress, but the dress pattern wasn't adapted to fit a larger bust. Compound that with the wrong foundational garments and the whole thing just looked off.
@brcsephina I think it also fits the storyline since her mom basically dresses her and probably has the dresses made to the proportions she wishes Penn had. The fit definitely changes once Penelope takes the reigns in season 3.
Her wardrobe is part of her story, but even with the people dressed correctly things aren't right. Simone Ashley should not have been injured from a corset. Many other historical dramas mess up in the undergarment area as well. Really really wish they would take the time to learn about them and use them correctly. If I was ever an actress in a period drama or anything that needed corsetry I would insist on correct foundational garments and proper fitting so I didn't end up a tightlaced sausage who can't move or breathe. They could make it look like however they want... but, by God, it's going to fit. They had a picture of the actress playing Penelope in her modern corset... so bad. They go on about how she needed a bra WITH the corset to get the right lift. If made correctly, she should not have. Despite the fact that they used a corsetier for the undergarments that still happened, along with many other issues. How?? I'm not convinced that corsetier understood what they were doing. And if they did.... someone didn't listen. I don't understand how so many historical costume specialists mess this up. But they do. Idk... maybe they get how it should look, but fit and construction and materials and engineering? Idk
As a historian, I want to thank you so much for telling the story of the Circassian War and posting the links. It means a lot, there is so much left out of the average person's history education.
I didn't even know about Circassia, clicked on the links out of curiosity ("How bad does it have to be for Nicole to be so adamant on not dabbing into it?") and... Look. I was expecting bad. I wasn't expecting THAT bad. And I'm used to brushing against really bad stuff in History. I'm appalled by how little we know about this? From what little I could understand of it, it makes total sense what I heard in school about Chechnya having a historically aggressive, combative attitude towards Russia? It wasn't just Circassians they decimated, they threw a lot of other people in the bundle. If I had money right now, I'd buy the book on the Circassian Genocide I found in the Wikipedia footnotes, by Rutgers University Press, because it really feels like it's tied to a bunch more stuff still happening today than we might realize at first. Fuck. I'm really, really horrified.
I do wonder, what kind of motives did the Tzar have for that war? Got to remember, that what western media said wasn't the whole truth, and they could've made it out to be worse than it was to make the Russian Empire look worse. Especially in our modern times, when the media is highly focused on being very anti-Russian with burning passion. Though I do have to admit, war is never anything positive.
As a person from North Western Europe and a South Western European background I always felt we were taught little to nothing about Eastern European and Asia Minor history… ( not to mention our colonial history, cause that’s lacking grossly as well) History is besides interesting also a tool to teach us to be better people in the future.
When my sister was looking for wedding shape wear I told her long stays are my preferred corset. She said this is probably the reason. Also, if you've seen Pride, Prejudice and Zombies they totally missed an opportunity!
I really appreciate your incorporating that little bit of Circassian history in this video. I did know a bit about it, as my daughter is a descendant of the Turkish Circassian diaspora, but I didn't know about the link to fashion history. Learnt something today!
The thing that gets me about "they were described as extremely comfortable, but we can't find extant garments" is I take it to mean something might have been so comfortable that the garments were worn to threads. Seeing the different styles of undergarments with different gowns, even in the same fashion scene, shows how important it is to get the right underpinnings. Also, that the underpinnings need to fit the body, or else they don't work. Also thanks for the history lesson on the Circassian invasion.
“Regency Lady Dimitrescu” is so accurate. The comparison of the different undergarment styles is incredibly useful too, particularly how you not the type and location of support and how those interact with the changing shape and level of your bust.
Gonna need costube to get on making historic versions of her and her daughters. There’s some paintings of them in-game in Victorian ball gowns which would be great to see.
Missed an opportunity for Regency Jessica Rabbit... :D (BTW, Nicole, you looked great! I just had to giggle at your face when you were saying, "It's..... a lot.")
It is so fascinating to see how much the undergarments impact the silhouette. I've heard other costubers say that it's necessary to make the undergarments first, but seeing the impact of the wrong corset has on the drape of the dresses makes that advice so salient.
It is like having a really brainy "big sister" explaining stuff to you ! Top marks for showing the actual outfits and undergarments ! Very educational! It's one thing to read about, but when I see the ACTUAL outfit with correct undergarments, it "clicks" together ! Thanks for all your hard work. Lived the barky pup at the end ! Lol ! Relatable ! ;)
My body and my preferences have evolved to being more comfortable in camisoles or corsets and even sports bralettes. I think that I only own one modern (circa 2016?) bra. I appreciate channels like this one that are attempting to enlighten the public relating to the fact that most properly fitted corsets are comfortable not tyrannical.
I didn't know about the Circassian Genocide, but I have vague memories of teachers commenting on Chechnya and Russia being constantly in conflict, so when I saw "The peoples planned for removal were mainly the Circassians (or Adyghe), Ubykhs, and Abaza, but Abkhaz, Arshtins, Chechens and Ossetians were also heavily affected." in the Wikipedia article, I went "Oh... That's why Chechens hate them. They were massacred along with the Circassians and many others." WHY ARE WE HAVING ISSUES WITH ETHNIC CLEANSING STILL TO THIS DAY???
everyone else is leaving kind and big brained comments and I'm here like "tiddy placement really matters in these gowns" jokes aside, this is really great info, thanks for taking the time and care with this video!
Awesome video, but also can we appreciate Nicole just casually normalizing body changes over here with "I made it a while ago and it doesn't fit anymore" and then moving on. Not spending 5min self-flagellating as if gaining weight or changing shape was a personal and moral failing that she owes us an explanation for.
Ehh, I understand what you're saying, but I wish she had mentioned in passing how her body had changed - gained, lost, put on different muscle from working out in different ways? I know my body has changed significantly just in the last year because although the scale is the same, my shape has changed because I stopped dancing during the pandemic. I've always understood older clothing to be more flexible to a changing body because you could take things in, let them out, etc. So by simply stating, "I've been working out more with rowing (or whatever) and my shoulders have grown beyond what the gown can comfortably hold" it would help me understand how, as a fantastic maker, she wasn't able to manipulate the gowns / understructure to more comfortably fit.
Oh I absolutely love that soft corset! I've wanted to make my own bra/corset/bust support for a while now & that seems like something that does not intimidate me as much as many other styles. (I'm aware I've just spit in Murphy's eye there but...) Please please please make a video detailing some of how you made that! *clasps hands pleadingly*
I was just thinking that soft corset seems like the perfect undergarment for modern clothes, too? I don't wear bras much anymore but I need *something* in summer.
“Ma’am.” 😭😭😭 this was fascinating. In our modern age of stretch fabrics, I don’t think much about how our bust support affects the fit of more tailored clothing. Thanks for this!
I appreciate so much you talking about your changing shape and normalising that yeah, bodies change! Unrelated but I'm still losing my mind over "bodice=bodies"
This reminds me of a rehearsal for our stage production of Pride and Prejudice when the director pulled the women in the cast aside and said "Ladies. Let's talk about your boobs." It's so important to get that empire waistline sitting at the underbust 😅
As a Circassian and fashion enthusiast, I want to genuinely thank you for raising awareness of our history while highlighting the influence we've had on fashion. I've learned so much from your video. Wapso (thank you in Circassian) ❤
The sleeves on the white gown are stunning! I loved seeing the different styles and am definitely tempted to make a few of them. When Baily started talking at the end my doggo started looking to see where the new friend might be
How fantastic to have bust support comparison suggestions for older fashions. I thought each part of every era had its own silhouette. So, unlike modern bras, one could not choose a specific style of support & still fit the silhouette.
The very natural style around the 8-minute mark. Looks very much like a choli. A traditional Indian top. Modernly they are made many different ways. This looks very similar the piecing of an older / historic style choli seen in paintings.
It’s so interesting seeing the different stays/corset styles and how they look under different gowns! And seeing the side-by-side was good too! And yeah, I’m definitely going to need to be doing some reading. I hadn’t heard about that history.
The 'Circassian corset' looks like a dream to wear and is really quite stylish ! Any chance of a dedicated video in the near future ? Also, I love the sleeve details on the white gown. Given the grecian influence of the period, I'm suspecting they were a nod to the way the Ionic chiton was pinned over the arms. Now that I think about it, even the corset, with its double criss-cross at the back and tie under the bust look, reminds me of that ribbon/tape thing you see 'grecian' women wearing in William Godward's paintings... Not sure if they are historically accurate though 🤔
I was thinking the same thing - it could be a great warm weather style for those of us who are hesitant to go bra-less due to the size of their tracts of land :)
I absolutely love the way you educate us as the video moves along. Unrelated, your lip color and eye shadow looks amazing with your skin and hair color.
@@sandiemable in theory a non-stretch fabric would be more supportive for larger cups. I think it would also mean that the weight of them would be better distributed around your waist instead of mostly on the edges
I think it’s always really important to remember that we can’t ever really separate fashion from its context. The social and political history that influenced, and many times was influenced by, fashion of the time. It’s just a great reminder to always keep that in mind. You know- where did the chemise a la reine come from? It came from the colonies of France, where they had invaded the humid Caribbean, and enslaved people in order to produce sugar. Because it was more humid there, the style of dress that would eventually come to be known as the chemise a la reine, became popular amongst the french colonialist women who lived there. You can’t separate fashion from its context. You just can’t. Also, Thought Slime has some information regarding why “Caucasian” became the western beauty standard and the term used for white people in his video in white identity, which includes the story of the race “scientist” (heavy scare quotes there) who just loved this skull from the area so, so much. It’s kinda gross. Also, much eugenics. Still, it’s a great video, and I appreciate when a creator is able to put forward some honestly pretty dark subject material, but still insert moments of (appropriate) levity. Thought Slime is great at that.
To think you start understanding this with "Oh, so fashion is used to display financial wealth and social status" and ends up finding that war, genocide, and colonialism is like, the underlayer to the financial wealth display... I'm gonna look for Thought Slime's video.
@@hollynotholy unfortunately, war, genocide and colonialism are the most common foundations for wealth, even today. You could count every American billionaire as coming from a foundation of colonialism, and even if you didn’t, their modern wealth definitely comes from exploitation of people in their own country, and the exploitation and neocolonialism of other, usually less developed countries. Amazon is a good example- Bezos exploits his American workers, but the products that are sold from his site are often made from materials that come from less developed countries, who have to produce those materials due to the neocolonialism of IMF loans. Sometimes the products are manufactured there too. But the profits don’t stay with the people who manufacture the materials or products- they go to a white American man, just like the profits from sugar plantations in Haiti went back to France. It’s all very much the same thing. The more things change… And we can see the same context in our current fashion, with fast fashion, and how workers in developing countries are abused, exploited and even killed for make cheap jeans that will profit some western business owner, and that will be worn by some western teenager who’ll throw them out next season. You can’t separate even modern fashion from its context. The disposability, the fast nature of the industry, how damaging the industry is to the environment and to the people. I think (though it’s very depressing) this is actually why I like dress history so much. Because fashion is so connected with the time it comes from, with the politics of the time, the situations of the time. And even the most bougie of high fashion still has that thread of connection to the exploited underclasses- the ones who make the garments, or grow the materials. It’s depressing, but I feel it’s a really strong connection to the people, and the place, and the situation. Not just which rich woman wore x pretty gown- but who made it? Why was this material so popular? Why was this silhouette so popular? It just prompts so many avenues for further questioning and learning, and I really like that. (Also, take that, arseholes who say dress history “isn’t real history”, and is just silly women looking at pretty dresses! Dress history is going to give you just as good (if not better) understanding of the working, exploited classes of the time than what general won what battle in what war!)
Crazy that it is the same body. It makes me think how I used to think that people in different eras had different shaped bodies. Not at all, just the undergarments changing the silhouette
I don't know if I could get away with this era of dress... I'm very full busted! 42DD and I fear I would pop out of half of the styles. I would have to get my hands on the appropriate undergarments to test this theory of course. Lovely video! Very educational! I will have to look up about the Russian take over. I have always loved history but hated that everyone is so violent!
The "bra" looks like a thin version of our current tiny shirts that we wear over our other shirts. (or by itself if you are comfortable enough with your body)
I absolutely love the ending! "Ma'am." 😆 Perfect ending. Thank you for showing the differences in each corset and how they offer support with the different garments. I have "make historical dresses" on my bucket list and having videos like yours offer lots of info for my research. Thank you for not editing out your lovely pet and her sassy comments, "Ma'am." ❤
I thought"Ma'am" was funny too 😊 "Like yes? You have something to tell me?" Lol. I referred to my fur baby as "young lady" (regardless of her age), as in "Young Lady, w do not jump on the counters in this house!" I don't know why it made me talk like my grandma hee
I really love your ability to write and create video essays. You define your terms, you specify your topic of interest, you provide back story you look into the research and then you provide your own. I'm honestly in love. This is why academics is fascinating! Thanks for also taking the time to provide links and touch on the subject Circassian history. I also really appreciate your acknowledgement of your body changing shape, and your clothing changing fit. As a person who is dealing with the joy and difficulty of this myself; I find your pragmatic approach to the reality of clothing, body shape and "ideals of fit" to be a safe place to rest my brain. The way you also address the realities of getting dressed - this needs to be a 1 person job, this would be successful as a 2 person job. Is an underrated topic of getting dressed. i.e. Sandy's leggings at the end of Grease were sewn on. its okay if your solo version doesn't look the same. ... that green dress though. It's gorgeous! Thank you for using your body to help show these things. Your ability to show your body or your clothes as something that isn't in need of changing or judgement, but just as something that either fits or does not fit an "ideal" in whatever clothes it is in...... Thank you.
Are you trying to find an American equivalent to “Regency Period”? If so, you might find that “Early Republic” will get you from the 1780s through 1815, and “Antebellum Period” to carry you from there through to the Civil War period. Which brings me to a question I would love to see covered at some point - while the American styles drew heavily from Western Europe through the 18th and 19th centuries, were there some variations that would have really differentiated them?
Another subtext of this could be the fact that materials would be more expensive during the war, or just not available! Lots to dig into there, though I have no idea how much "source" material there is ?!
Yeah, it is only fairly recently that Regency has become the generic blanket term applied no matter the country of origin. There use to be more of a distiction between US produced (Federalist design), French (Repupublican, then Empire design) and English (late Georgian, then Regency) and there would be regional variations applied the general silouette. There is a great book called Regency Woman's Dress by Cassidy Perocco that has patterns from extant garments in collections from various museums in New York and she talks about some of the regional details you see. I know in Spain at the time there were some overdress styles that wers specific to different regions.
@@confusedwhale I haven’t seen Sewstine’s video on the topic, but I’m sure a lot has changed in the 15 years since I was immersed in American historiography (because what hasn’t?). Calling it the “Victorian Era” doesn’t make sense in the American context either. While some Americans had a great deal of interest in Victoria and the British Monarchy, that interest certainly is not applicable across the majority of people in America at the time. And of course “Antebellum” (meaning “pre-war”, referring to the American Civil War) doesn’t fit as a descriptor of the period for the people living in areas not yet culturally American (by choice or force, or some combination thereof). But whatever it is determined to be most accurate and correct, if we are talking about periods of time in America, I hope we can agree that reference to British monarchs are not necessarily the most accurate.
I believe sewstine was doing a Q&A and she answered a question about what period of time she wouldn't want to make a dress from, and for her it was the Antebellum period of American history. I don't believe she was unwilling to use the label, she simply didn't want to be part of creating costumes that represent it because of its complicated history around race and slavery and how people have glamorized it since then such as in gone with the wind.
Thanks for the brief history lesson on the Cirscarian invasion and genocide from the Russians. Sadly history is full of invasions and genocide of various lands and people. Its not something that is talked about in schools. Especially in American public schools. You hear all about the American Revolution and the Civil war even the Underground Railroad. But never about how one power hungry ruler tried to take over another nation and their tactics. Even Rome and all its greatness was a very efficient killing machine. The most fascinating thing in all of this is the ties to fashion at the time and how it was used to bring awareness of what was happening in the region. I'm a homeschool mom and a huge history guru. I plan to do a little more research into fashion and the way the names of things get their names so that I might be able to teach history better to my kids. I'm of the philosophy that history is there to learn from. If it makes you uncomfortable all the better. Then you are less likely to repeat the mistakes of the past and do better for the present and hopefully make a better future.
Oeh I'd love a more detailed anything on those soft support garments. They look very comfortable and less challenging to make. (not very experienced sewer here)
@@grooveonthehillside Thanks for mentioning this! I haven't finished watching it yet, but here's the link for anyone else looking! ruclips.net/video/p_BFRV22DFU/видео.html
As someone currently making a set of pseudo-regency short stays, this video is *exactly* what I’ve been looking for. I’m not going anywhere near historical accuracy on my own stuff but I SO appreciate seeing the variety of types of bust support in the period rather than just “here’s the ONE CORSET that EVERYONE had”
Nicely done! I've been wondering how the corsets shifted through this era (it's always been on of my favorites) seeing as the gowns change so very slightly as the gathered fronts vs flat fronts and the position of the waistline in relation to the bust and and and .... YAY!
Oh wow, the comparisons with the gowns on is the most helpful thing I've ever seen to showcase differences in silhouettes. Usually when you compare fashion plates there's so much going on - different gowns, different bodies - that you can't really see exactly *how* it changes the shape. This was so good!
I absolutely love this video. It so perfectly encapsulates why I love the history of the "little" things because you can use it to learn about the big and important things and I'm so glad you included the history that you did in the way that you did. Thank you.
What style corset would you recommend for wearing with modern clothing, like jeans and fitting shirts/blouses? I like the idea of having better bust and back support but don't want to go full petticoat and historical inspired clothing.
I've been wondering that myself and looked at RedThreaded corsets in Colorado. I still haven't made a final decision about which era - or simply talking to them.
@@thebookwyrmslair6757 I thought the 1880's Victorian or 1860's Gored corset looked closest to the modern hourglass silhouette while maintaining a shapely bust. It also looks like it would sit nicely under pants or skirts. The tricky part would be finding a nice half chemise to go under and work with a large number of top cuts and sleeve types.
@@elizabethh8579 I've seen a few people mention a regular tank top or camisole. Bella had a chemise that untied at the shoulders for her Cinderella dress - one the corset was on and she was ready to pt on the bodice she simply untied the shoulders and ensured the strings were tucked inside. :)
So, I'm a chesty gal and quarantine has made me rather bra adverse, but I'm not going to go full on corset or stays. 10 million years I spent time in India and got used to wearing a choli blouse without a bra underneath, so I've been turning that around in my head and mentally modifying it. That v&a bust bodice my just be the best thing yet!! It never occurred to me to do a wrap closure! Genius! Thank you!!!
I used to wear a choli as a bra-and-shirt combo, and it was great. Unfortunately I am a little larger than I was at age 12, so it doesn't fit me anymore. Thanks for reminding me to dig it out and (try to) figure out a pattern that would fit me now :)
Thank you. I love your lectures. I always feel like I'm practicing being in class for when I go back to school for my MA in Art History (at this point, I think I want to specialize in the 1910's for Canadian dress history). I'm presently taking a break from upsizing and, at this point, kidna redesigning the Redthreaded half stays for my 38FF frame (sorry Cynthia, all the mistakes are my own). Definitely agree that what you're pouring into those cups helps to determine the gores size and shape. Thank you for the introduction to the Cercassian Genocide. Yet another one I didn't learn in school. If you ever decide to release patterns (either on your own or in partnership), please consider starting with the soft corset. It looks amazingly comfortable. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
I hate modern women's undergarments and I've been toying around with the idea of making my own. That soft corset looks really interesting...I'd love to see a video about how you made it
Oh wow, I especially loved the four way turnaround at the end of the video. VERY interesting to see how all of the shapes differ against one another. Thank you so much!
Thank-you for pointing me to these events...OY. My grandmother came from that region and she had some interesting "bras" easy to put on...I would like another way to wear some bust support that she had....
I must say I have never focused so much on someone's breast than since I discovered this channel. This is super insightful how each agreement shaped the body differently. I really like the sleeves of the white gown, the little drapy details ...so cute
What a wonderfully interesting video! Thank you for that! One tiny suggestion: please, keep the images of the garments on for longer, it is so interesting when you talk about them. Have a fabulous day.
So cool! All the corsets really affect your shape in different ways, it was very interesting to see. And thanks for the history lesson, I had no idea that the Circassian Genocide had even existed. I need to go read up on that now. And it's funny that it seems like Lady Dimitrescu is on all of costube's brain. Same.
It's important that we all have the same understanding to terms, otherwise we end up fighting over stupid stuff. Thanks for defining Regency era in fashion. This helps a ton!! Seriously just saw a thumbnail for a 1790's gown and in my head I protested that it was Regency. Now I know better, she and I were both correct.
Also, would like to add yours and Bernadette's voices are perfect for asmr. I love listening to you both, especially when you're both hand sewing. Relaxing. #unintentionalasmr
History person here, thanks for acknowledging "political" era vs dates it's nice to get a nod. so many folks will talk about "Victorian America" and it just leaves me scratching my head, are we talking Antebellum, civil war, reconstruction, "old west", ect
The girls really seem to spill out of the 1790s ones! Though that is in line with cartoons of the day (transparent dress cartoons always crack me up). I've got a couple of pairs of short stays that I've been wearing semi-regularly and I find them very comfortable. I went horseback riding in them, skiing (!), and just doing all sorts of things. I think I ought to make a 3rd pair soon - something summery and nice.
This was a really helpful video, thank you! I am also intrigued by the idea of the circassian corset, I like the idea of a soft and easy corset, by I find crossed straps really uncomfortable to wear, so that seems like a good solution.
Thank you so much for this! I’m working on transitional 1790s stays right now and was stressing that I wasn’t getting a lot of lift or separation. Feeling much better about the situation now and more confident in this era overall!
I am so excited by these videos (and tbh, everything on your channel so far), because you're not afraid to dive very deep in your research, and your explanations of said research is so well done. That combined with seeing actual garments manages to make some dang good videos in my opinion
This video was an extremely timely find for me, i was JUST debating trying out regency. Is youtube reading my mind?!? 😂 Not the point of the video, but the sleeve detail on the white gown is just so beautiful! I was in awe the whole time. Lovely!
absolutely LOVE the comparison of fit/silhouette through the different gowns, so helpful in really understanding the differences and how they read in wear, thank you!
I love this video. While I knew historical undergarments supported the clothing and fashion of the time, putting different period designs over different period corsets really hammered that concept home
Thank you for this video, I am in the midst of searching for undergarments and corsets and stays that would fit someone of my size. Have a small waist, quite long with a heavy bust size. And many of the videos here are on yt are made by women more on the petit size. And this is the first time I have come across the mention of a Circassian corset, and that one I am really taking a liking to the most. I also like the 1790s corset. But I am thinking of marrying the two and a dash of regency. Thank you for this informative video and also showing the difference between them. Bless you!
Fascinating. Thank you very much. In British collections and museums thar Circassian corset if referred to simply as a ‘short stay’ and I hadn’t heard that story before, I will go deeper. As for the 1800 corset in the little white dress, well I understand your comments, as a woman, but I suspect there would be many men assuring you it looked just fine. Probably a good few ladies too, simply by virtue of you ‘arts and allurements’
Thanks for the history lesson as well as the new ideas for what might be a potentially comfortable bust support! I'm still trying to figure that out, I hate the underboob band on bras so I'm hoping a half-corset might do the trick and your soft corset looked really comfortable so I'll be following that link :)
I love the way you compare these and sensitively explain origins. Great work (and timely for me, I was just moving toward working on a Regency era project!).
You always do a wonderful job with this topic, as in your mentions of the importance of tailoring and upkeep of previously made garments to keep them fitting properly and beautifully complimenting your body, but I just want to commend you again on the way that you casually mention the fact that some of these garments simply do not fit you anymore, but you are still dedicated to sharing your knowledge and displaying them in the way that does the best service to both them and you. Also, I admire your willingness to invite scholarly attention to your own body as a way to teach and share the intricacies of historical fashion. I love your videos, and imagine that it might not always be easy to share that kind of content. Thank you for sharing your beautiful work, as always!
For my boy type and the amount that I dress Regency and the fact that those events I'm frequently on my own with no one to help strap me in, THIS is what I need. Thank you. You have saved me months of agonizing over which stays to have made. Also this will be vastly easier and cheaper to make than fully boned stays. My knowledge of Circassia is limited to Lawrence of Arabia, because T.E. Lawrence would often tell people he was Circassian to explain his skin color/eyes etc. since there were a lot of Circassians in the Ottoman empire at the time of the first World War. I had no idea WHY they were there though...
Nice to have the history lesson to complement the garment information... you talk to your furbaby like i talk to mine... polite like talking to a human. I use words like excuse me, thank you, can I get by here... lol time alone with them, I make it my world...
I always thought it would be cool to do a futuristic full bodice corset that is 'boned' with strips of Kevlar. A very stylish, fashionable and functional bullet proof vest, lol...
It’s pretty amazing that these women’s efforts to raise awareness by naming garments after the region are still having an impact today through your video (and other sources). I’m really really sad to hear what happened and that it’s still being denied today 😞
Fascinating! I think the side by side comparison was the most valuable piece of information I got from your video - I'm not terribly good with keeping the image of the previous fit in mind when I'm looking at the current garment - so to be able to pause at that point and see how everything was shifted and shaped compared to the others was very interesting.
Unrelated but can I just say how refreshing it is to see a woman talk about a garment not fitting her anymore like it is no big deal. Because it is no big deal and we should really normalize that idea.
Right? Though it also helps that she doesnt have to deal with another Person immediately replying "oh but im sure with a Bit of exercise it will fit again!"
... Ma'am, i was Just making an observation that my butt doesnt fit my 2019 short Shorts anymore, i never Said thats a Bad thing. I hate how normalised it is to complain about your bodyshape that people immediately assume you want some motivational speech. Why cant we Just make an observation?
Absolutely!
@@annabeinglazy5580 Especially because body shape and size changing over time is just what bodies *do*. Especially areas like the bust - boobs can have a whole mind of their own about size and shape and positioning as you go through life due to changes in hormones and so on, it's just A Thing That Happens. (I think mine are trying to see how much money they can get me to spend on different bra sizes, personally.)
I'd also like to say she has a lovely figure. Undergarments make such a difference on how the outer clothes and styles fit....and choosing the right undergarments for the foundation of even what we wear today is important. Hooray for different styles and explorations of fashion, and hooray for celebrating beautiful womanhood.
I don’t think it’s unrelated at all! It’s completely intrinsic to the conversation about women’s bodies and fit. If we had more detailed discussions about that with modern clothing more women would understand why it can be so difficult to find well fitting clothing made commercially.
Also, I think I finally understand why the costumes in Bridgerton looked so "off" to me. Whenever they showed the undergarments, everyone had corsets shaped more like your last ones, with that exact bust shape, but all the dresses had necklines from earlier styles. When you had the white gathered gown with that corset, something just clicked for me! Watching the show I thought the bust was slightly exaggerated, it looked too lifted and too high, and you hit the nail on the head, it *looks* uncomfortable, it looks like the chest is compressed. The more I study period fashion and costume design in media, the more I realize that silhouettes are absolutely essential to get right, in order to make the garments look right.
Bridgerton's costumes also looked like they didn't fit. They had a plus sized girl wearing the right style of dress, but the dress pattern wasn't adapted to fit a larger bust. Compound that with the wrong foundational garments and the whole thing just looked off.
@@bboops23they did that purposefully so that she could have a “glow up” later which includes a proper bustline
@brcsephina I think it also fits the storyline since her mom basically dresses her and probably has the dresses made to the proportions she wishes Penn had. The fit definitely changes once Penelope takes the reigns in season 3.
Her wardrobe is part of her story, but even with the people dressed correctly things aren't right. Simone Ashley should not have been injured from a corset. Many other historical dramas mess up in the undergarment area as well. Really really wish they would take the time to learn about them and use them correctly. If I was ever an actress in a period drama or anything that needed corsetry I would insist on correct foundational garments and proper fitting so I didn't end up a tightlaced sausage who can't move or breathe. They could make it look like however they want... but, by God, it's going to fit.
They had a picture of the actress playing Penelope in her modern corset... so bad. They go on about how she needed a bra WITH the corset to get the right lift. If made correctly, she should not have. Despite the fact that they used a corsetier for the undergarments that still happened, along with many other issues. How?? I'm not convinced that corsetier understood what they were doing. And if they did.... someone didn't listen.
I don't understand how so many historical costume specialists mess this up. But they do. Idk... maybe they get how it should look, but fit and construction and materials and engineering? Idk
As a historian, I want to thank you so much for telling the story of the Circassian War and posting the links. It means a lot, there is so much left out of the average person's history education.
Someone needs to tell The History Guy about this
I didn't even know about Circassia, clicked on the links out of curiosity ("How bad does it have to be for Nicole to be so adamant on not dabbing into it?") and...
Look. I was expecting bad. I wasn't expecting THAT bad. And I'm used to brushing against really bad stuff in History.
I'm appalled by how little we know about this? From what little I could understand of it, it makes total sense what I heard in school about Chechnya having a historically aggressive, combative attitude towards Russia? It wasn't just Circassians they decimated, they threw a lot of other people in the bundle. If I had money right now, I'd buy the book on the Circassian Genocide I found in the Wikipedia footnotes, by Rutgers University Press, because it really feels like it's tied to a bunch more stuff still happening today than we might realize at first.
Fuck. I'm really, really horrified.
@Gi Gi I see the comment from Holly now. Looks like they fixed it?
I do wonder, what kind of motives did the Tzar have for that war? Got to remember, that what western media said wasn't the whole truth, and they could've made it out to be worse than it was to make the Russian Empire look worse. Especially in our modern times, when the media is highly focused on being very anti-Russian with burning passion. Though I do have to admit, war is never anything positive.
As a person from North Western Europe and a South Western European background I always felt we were taught little to nothing about Eastern European and Asia Minor history… ( not to mention our colonial history, cause that’s lacking grossly as well)
History is besides interesting also a tool to teach us to be better people in the future.
My mind went “ooh u could put a sheathed dagger in there instead of a busk” 😂 🗡 *wucha!*
When my sister was looking for wedding shape wear I told her long stays are my preferred corset. She said this is probably the reason. Also, if you've seen Pride, Prejudice and Zombies they totally missed an opportunity!
I love that idea.
I have done this with short stays, only it was three throwing knives in their holster.
This is a bloody great idea!
000
I really appreciate your incorporating that little bit of Circassian history in this video. I did know a bit about it, as my daughter is a descendant of the Turkish Circassian diaspora, but I didn't know about the link to fashion history. Learnt something today!
The thing that gets me about "they were described as extremely comfortable, but we can't find extant garments" is I take it to mean something might have been so comfortable that the garments were worn to threads.
Seeing the different styles of undergarments with different gowns, even in the same fashion scene, shows how important it is to get the right underpinnings. Also, that the underpinnings need to fit the body, or else they don't work.
Also thanks for the history lesson on the Circassian invasion.
“Regency Lady Dimitrescu” is so accurate. The comparison of the different undergarment styles is incredibly useful too, particularly how you not the type and location of support and how those interact with the changing shape and level of your bust.
Gonna need costube to get on making historic versions of her and her daughters. There’s some paintings of them in-game in Victorian ball gowns which would be great to see.
Video Nicole: I can't describe how it looks exactly
Editing Nicole: Regency Lady Damitriscu is what you're thinking of.
Missed an opportunity for Regency Jessica Rabbit... :D (BTW, Nicole, you looked great! I just had to giggle at your face when you were saying, "It's..... a lot.")
@@thebookwyrmslair6757 That would have been a good one too
Also, I love your username. I kinda wish I'd thought of it.
@@CindyLooWhovian Thanks! It's a nod to Mercedes Lackey. :)
It is so fascinating to see how much the undergarments impact the silhouette. I've heard other costubers say that it's necessary to make the undergarments first, but seeing the impact of the wrong corset has on the drape of the dresses makes that advice so salient.
It is like having a really brainy "big sister" explaining stuff to you !
Top marks for showing the actual outfits and undergarments ! Very educational! It's one thing to read about, but when I see the ACTUAL outfit with correct undergarments, it "clicks" together !
Thanks for all your hard work.
Lived the barky pup at the end ! Lol ! Relatable ! ;)
My body and my preferences have evolved to being more comfortable in camisoles or corsets and even sports bralettes. I think that I only own one modern (circa 2016?) bra. I appreciate channels like this one that are attempting to enlighten the public relating to the fact that most properly fitted corsets are comfortable not tyrannical.
Regency bralette at 7:11 👀. We’ve got to have a dedicated video on this one.
Agreed! I would love to make one.
Yes!!
Yes
It looks so comfortable doesn't it?
I have started to make one. I have tried the long stays and left off the much needed drawstring for the top of the bust. Wont forget that next time.
I didn't know about the Circassian Genocide, but I have vague memories of teachers commenting on Chechnya and Russia being constantly in conflict, so when I saw "The peoples planned for removal were mainly the Circassians (or Adyghe), Ubykhs, and Abaza, but Abkhaz, Arshtins, Chechens and Ossetians were also heavily affected." in the Wikipedia article, I went "Oh... That's why Chechens hate them. They were massacred along with the Circassians and many others."
WHY ARE WE HAVING ISSUES WITH ETHNIC CLEANSING STILL TO THIS DAY???
everyone else is leaving kind and big brained comments and I'm here like "tiddy placement really matters in these gowns"
jokes aside, this is really great info, thanks for taking the time and care with this video!
The comparison of different corsets with on one gown was so helpful
Awesome video, but also can we appreciate Nicole just casually normalizing body changes over here with "I made it a while ago and it doesn't fit anymore" and then moving on. Not spending 5min self-flagellating as if gaining weight or changing shape was a personal and moral failing that she owes us an explanation for.
+1000
Maybe it doesn't fit because she lost weight.
It think Nicole mentioned that she works out differently and has gained muscle.
Dianne & Angellover, I think you both kind of missed the point. :-)
Ehh, I understand what you're saying, but I wish she had mentioned in passing how her body had changed - gained, lost, put on different muscle from working out in different ways? I know my body has changed significantly just in the last year because although the scale is the same, my shape has changed because I stopped dancing during the pandemic. I've always understood older clothing to be more flexible to a changing body because you could take things in, let them out, etc. So by simply stating, "I've been working out more with rowing (or whatever) and my shoulders have grown beyond what the gown can comfortably hold" it would help me understand how, as a fantastic maker, she wasn't able to manipulate the gowns / understructure to more comfortably fit.
I say we go back back to naming our garments after political events that need attention ...
"Yes this here is the Uighur bra, all the rage in early 2020s"
@@msai257 sounds perfect! Because someone always asks "why is it called that". Yes. I love it.
Pussy hats were a contemporaneous example.
Start with the Holomodor.
Well that certainly would be a better alternative to things like "harem pants"
Oh I absolutely love that soft corset! I've wanted to make my own bra/corset/bust support for a while now & that seems like something that does not intimidate me as much as many other styles. (I'm aware I've just spit in Murphy's eye there but...)
Please please please make a video detailing some of how you made that! *clasps hands pleadingly*
Yes Plse Nicole! And even if you want to pattern it and sell it, I mean just an idea , right?! Awesome video as usual!
Third!
I am goin to make one
I was just thinking that soft corset seems like the perfect undergarment for modern clothes, too? I don't wear bras much anymore but I need *something* in summer.
@@LilGalFriday Absolutely agree. And it doesn't even get that hot here! :D
One more plea for a tutorial/pattern for the soft corset! Please!
“Ma’am.” 😭😭😭 this was fascinating. In our modern age of stretch fabrics, I don’t think much about how our bust support affects the fit of more tailored clothing. Thanks for this!
I appreciate so much you talking about your changing shape and normalising that yeah, bodies change!
Unrelated but I'm still losing my mind over "bodice=bodies"
30:04 Is basically what I think of when romance novels say 'heaving bosom'.
This reminds me of a rehearsal for our stage production of Pride and Prejudice when the director pulled the women in the cast aside and said "Ladies. Let's talk about your boobs." It's so important to get that empire waistline sitting at the underbust 😅
As a Circassian and fashion enthusiast, I want to genuinely thank you for raising awareness of our history while highlighting the influence we've had on fashion. I've learned so much from your video. Wapso (thank you in Circassian) ❤
You and Abby are such a gift to those of us who cannot dedicate ourselves to the level of research that we would love to do! Thank you so much!
I love the rabbit holes they send us down!
The sleeves on the white gown are stunning! I loved seeing the different styles and am definitely tempted to make a few of them.
When Baily started talking at the end my doggo started looking to see where the new friend might be
How fantastic to have bust support comparison suggestions for older fashions. I thought each part of every era had its own silhouette. So, unlike modern bras, one could not choose a specific style of support & still fit the silhouette.
The very natural style around the 8-minute mark. Looks very much like a choli. A traditional Indian top. Modernly they are made many different ways. This looks very similar the piecing of an older / historic style choli seen in paintings.
That is exactly what I thought, too, as I have a pattern for one that looks almost the same.
It’s so interesting seeing the different stays/corset styles and how they look under different gowns! And seeing the side-by-side was good too!
And yeah, I’m definitely going to need to be doing some reading. I hadn’t heard about that history.
The 'Circassian corset' looks like a dream to wear and is really quite stylish ! Any chance of a dedicated video in the near future ?
Also, I love the sleeve details on the white gown. Given the grecian influence of the period, I'm suspecting they were a nod to the way the Ionic chiton was pinned over the arms. Now that I think about it, even the corset, with its double criss-cross at the back and tie under the bust look, reminds me of that ribbon/tape thing you see 'grecian' women wearing in William Godward's paintings... Not sure if they are historically accurate though 🤔
I was thinking the same thing - it could be a great warm weather style for those of us who are hesitant to go bra-less due to the size of their tracts of land :)
I need one for sure
@@lizhart81 "Huge tracts of land!" 😆
I absolutely love the way you educate us as the video moves along. Unrelated, your lip color and eye shadow looks amazing with your skin and hair color.
Every time I watch one of your videos I feel like I should be taking notes. Some of the most informative historical content anywhere! ✨
Came here for corsets, walked away with knowledge of world history I'd never heard of before - this is why I love your videos!
I wish modern corsets and bras we're 100% cotton shirting
Oh my gosh! Not for me; I need a bit more than that for my chunky Gs. :D
@@sandiemable yes, me too. But don’t you just wish they could be that comfortable?
I was about to ask about quilting and then I realized still probably not enough. But I am now going to obsess over this for days.
Aubade makes pima cotton bras.
@@sandiemable in theory a non-stretch fabric would be more supportive for larger cups.
I think it would also mean that the weight of them would be better distributed around your waist instead of mostly on the edges
I think it’s always really important to remember that we can’t ever really separate fashion from its context. The social and political history that influenced, and many times was influenced by, fashion of the time. It’s just a great reminder to always keep that in mind.
You know- where did the chemise a la reine come from? It came from the colonies of France, where they had invaded the humid Caribbean, and enslaved people in order to produce sugar. Because it was more humid there, the style of dress that would eventually come to be known as the chemise a la reine, became popular amongst the french colonialist women who lived there. You can’t separate fashion from its context. You just can’t.
Also, Thought Slime has some information regarding why “Caucasian” became the western beauty standard and the term used for white people in his video in white identity, which includes the story of the race “scientist” (heavy scare quotes there) who just loved this skull from the area so, so much. It’s kinda gross. Also, much eugenics. Still, it’s a great video, and I appreciate when a creator is able to put forward some honestly pretty dark subject material, but still insert moments of (appropriate) levity. Thought Slime is great at that.
To think you start understanding this with "Oh, so fashion is used to display financial wealth and social status" and ends up finding that war, genocide, and colonialism is like, the underlayer to the financial wealth display...
I'm gonna look for Thought Slime's video.
@@hollynotholy unfortunately, war, genocide and colonialism are the most common foundations for wealth, even today. You could count every American billionaire as coming from a foundation of colonialism, and even if you didn’t, their modern wealth definitely comes from exploitation of people in their own country, and the exploitation and neocolonialism of other, usually less developed countries. Amazon is a good example- Bezos exploits his American workers, but the products that are sold from his site are often made from materials that come from less developed countries, who have to produce those materials due to the neocolonialism of IMF loans. Sometimes the products are manufactured there too. But the profits don’t stay with the people who manufacture the materials or products- they go to a white American man, just like the profits from sugar plantations in Haiti went back to France.
It’s all very much the same thing. The more things change… And we can see the same context in our current fashion, with fast fashion, and how workers in developing countries are abused, exploited and even killed for make cheap jeans that will profit some western business owner, and that will be worn by some western teenager who’ll throw them out next season. You can’t separate even modern fashion from its context. The disposability, the fast nature of the industry, how damaging the industry is to the environment and to the people.
I think (though it’s very depressing) this is actually why I like dress history so much. Because fashion is so connected with the time it comes from, with the politics of the time, the situations of the time. And even the most bougie of high fashion still has that thread of connection to the exploited underclasses- the ones who make the garments, or grow the materials. It’s depressing, but I feel it’s a really strong connection to the people, and the place, and the situation. Not just which rich woman wore x pretty gown- but who made it? Why was this material so popular? Why was this silhouette so popular? It just prompts so many avenues for further questioning and learning, and I really like that.
(Also, take that, arseholes who say dress history “isn’t real history”, and is just silly women looking at pretty dresses! Dress history is going to give you just as good (if not better) understanding of the working, exploited classes of the time than what general won what battle in what war!)
Literally one minute into the video and I’m already obsessed with your care in defining your terms 🤩
Crazy that it is the same body. It makes me think how I used to think that people in different eras had different shaped bodies. Not at all, just the undergarments changing the silhouette
You are such a great educator and so well versed. Thank you greatly for sharing your knowledge and passion with us all.
I don't know if I could get away with this era of dress... I'm very full busted! 42DD and I fear I would pop out of half of the styles. I would have to get my hands on the appropriate undergarments to test this theory of course. Lovely video! Very educational! I will have to look up about the Russian take over. I have always loved history but hated that everyone is so violent!
The "bra" looks like a thin version of our current tiny shirts that we wear over our other shirts. (or by itself if you are comfortable enough with your body)
Crop tops ?
@@neonpinkqueen1403 I think they mean the crop tops that tie in the front, tho I don't know anyone who wears them over shirts
I absolutely love the ending! "Ma'am." 😆 Perfect ending. Thank you for showing the differences in each corset and how they offer support with the different garments. I have "make historical dresses" on my bucket list and having videos like yours offer lots of info for my research. Thank you for not editing out your lovely pet and her sassy comments, "Ma'am." ❤
I thought"Ma'am" was funny too 😊 "Like yes? You have something to tell me?" Lol. I referred to my fur baby as "young lady" (regardless of her age), as in "Young Lady, w do not jump on the counters in this house!" I don't know why it made me talk like my grandma hee
You handled the Circassian history so well! I appreciate your delicacy and honesty on such issues, which is rare in our time.
I really love your ability to write and create video essays. You define your terms, you specify your topic of interest, you provide back story you look into the research and then you provide your own. I'm honestly in love. This is why academics is fascinating!
Thanks for also taking the time to provide links and touch on the subject Circassian history.
I also really appreciate your acknowledgement of your body changing shape, and your clothing changing fit. As a person who is dealing with the joy and difficulty of this myself; I find your pragmatic approach to the reality of clothing, body shape and "ideals of fit" to be a safe place to rest my brain.
The way you also address the realities of getting dressed - this needs to be a 1 person job, this would be successful as a 2 person job. Is an underrated topic of getting dressed. i.e. Sandy's leggings at the end of Grease were sewn on. its okay if your solo version doesn't look the same. ... that green dress though. It's gorgeous!
Thank you for using your body to help show these things. Your ability to show your body or your clothes as something that isn't in need of changing or judgement, but just as something that either fits or does not fit an "ideal" in whatever clothes it is in...... Thank you.
Are you trying to find an American equivalent to “Regency Period”? If so, you might find that “Early Republic” will get you from the 1780s through 1815, and “Antebellum Period” to carry you from there through to the Civil War period. Which brings me to a question I would love to see covered at some point - while the American styles drew heavily from Western Europe through the 18th and 19th centuries, were there some variations that would have really differentiated them?
Another subtext of this could be the fact that materials would be more expensive during the war, or just not available!
Lots to dig into there, though I have no idea how much "source" material there is ?!
I'm guessing most would want to avoid the "Antebellum period"... for reasons.
Just like Sewstine does.
Yeah, it is only fairly recently that Regency has become the generic blanket term applied no matter the country of origin. There use to be more of a distiction between US produced (Federalist design), French (Repupublican, then Empire design) and English (late Georgian, then Regency) and there would be regional variations applied the general silouette. There is a great book called Regency Woman's Dress by Cassidy Perocco that has patterns from extant garments in collections from various museums in New York and she talks about some of the regional details you see.
I know in Spain at the time there were some overdress styles that wers specific to different regions.
@@confusedwhale I haven’t seen Sewstine’s video on the topic, but I’m sure a lot has changed in the 15 years since I was immersed in American historiography (because what hasn’t?). Calling it the “Victorian Era” doesn’t make sense in the American context either. While some Americans had a great deal of interest in Victoria and the British Monarchy, that interest certainly is not applicable across the majority of people in America at the time. And of course “Antebellum” (meaning “pre-war”, referring to the American Civil War) doesn’t fit as a descriptor of the period for the people living in areas not yet culturally American (by choice or force, or some combination thereof). But whatever it is determined to be most accurate and correct, if we are talking about periods of time in America, I hope we can agree that reference to British monarchs are not necessarily the most accurate.
I believe sewstine was doing a Q&A and she answered a question about what period of time she wouldn't want to make a dress from, and for her it was the Antebellum period of American history. I don't believe she was unwilling to use the label, she simply didn't want to be part of creating costumes that represent it because of its complicated history around race and slavery and how people have glamorized it since then such as in gone with the wind.
It’s amazing how much of world history is contained in dress history. Absolutely awesome video!!
Thanks for the brief history lesson on the Cirscarian invasion and genocide from the Russians. Sadly history is full of invasions and genocide of various lands and people. Its not something that is talked about in schools. Especially in American public schools. You hear all about the American Revolution and the Civil war even the Underground Railroad. But never about how one power hungry ruler tried to take over another nation and their tactics. Even Rome and all its greatness was a very efficient killing machine. The most fascinating thing in all of this is the ties to fashion at the time and how it was used to bring awareness of what was happening in the region. I'm a homeschool mom and a huge history guru. I plan to do a little more research into fashion and the way the names of things get their names so that I might be able to teach history better to my kids. I'm of the philosophy that history is there to learn from. If it makes you uncomfortable all the better. Then you are less likely to repeat the mistakes of the past and do better for the present and hopefully make a better future.
Wow that 7:14 “bra” with sleeves is amazing! I totally want to recreate that as a crop top 😍
Oeh I'd love a more detailed anything on those soft support garments. They look very comfortable and less challenging to make. (not very experienced sewer here)
DIY dixie has a video on a version of the crossover type of corset that looks quite similar, with links to a pattern another blogger made for it!
@@grooveonthehillside Thanks for mentioning this! I haven't finished watching it yet, but here's the link for anyone else looking! ruclips.net/video/p_BFRV22DFU/видео.html
As someone currently making a set of pseudo-regency short stays, this video is *exactly* what I’ve been looking for. I’m not going anywhere near historical accuracy on my own stuff but I SO appreciate seeing the variety of types of bust support in the period rather than just “here’s the ONE CORSET that EVERYONE had”
Nicely done! I've been wondering how the corsets shifted through this era (it's always been on of my favorites) seeing as the gowns change so very slightly as the gathered fronts vs flat fronts and the position of the waistline in relation to the bust and and and .... YAY!
I love learning world history through a topic I already love 💘
So informative as always! The side by side was interesting to see, and also the different under structures with one gown.
Oh wow, the comparisons with the gowns on is the most helpful thing I've ever seen to showcase differences in silhouettes. Usually when you compare fashion plates there's so much going on - different gowns, different bodies - that you can't really see exactly *how* it changes the shape. This was so good!
The sewing on that corset (28:15) is marvellous. Thanks for another interesting and informative video.
I love Sunday mornings with coffee and corsets.
Thank you Nicole. This is perfect. I love how you show/demonstrate how the fit changes with each type gown and corset/stay. Great vlog.
I adore how thorough and precise you are in your videos, and all the visual examples you provide. thank you.
I absolutely love this video. It so perfectly encapsulates why I love the history of the "little" things because you can use it to learn about the big and important things and I'm so glad you included the history that you did in the way that you did. Thank you.
What style corset would you recommend for wearing with modern clothing, like jeans and fitting shirts/blouses? I like the idea of having better bust and back support but don't want to go full petticoat and historical inspired clothing.
I've been wondering that myself and looked at RedThreaded corsets in Colorado. I still haven't made a final decision about which era - or simply talking to them.
@@thebookwyrmslair6757 I thought the 1880's Victorian or 1860's Gored corset looked closest to the modern hourglass silhouette while maintaining a shapely bust. It also looks like it would sit nicely under pants or skirts. The tricky part would be finding a nice half chemise to go under and work with a large number of top cuts and sleeve types.
@@elizabethh8579 I've seen a few people mention a regular tank top or camisole. Bella had a chemise that untied at the shoulders for her Cinderella dress - one the corset was on and she was ready to pt on the bodice she simply untied the shoulders and ensured the strings were tucked inside. :)
The side by side comparison under the gowns was so helpful! Love that white gown, stunning work
So, I'm a chesty gal and quarantine has made me rather bra adverse, but I'm not going to go full on corset or stays. 10 million years I spent time in India and got used to wearing a choli blouse without a bra underneath, so I've been turning that around in my head and mentally modifying it. That v&a bust bodice my just be the best thing yet!! It never occurred to me to do a wrap closure! Genius! Thank you!!!
I used to wear a choli as a bra-and-shirt combo, and it was great. Unfortunately I am a little larger than I was at age 12, so it doesn't fit me anymore. Thanks for reminding me to dig it out and (try to) figure out a pattern that would fit me now :)
Thank you. I love your lectures. I always feel like I'm practicing being in class for when I go back to school for my MA in Art History (at this point, I think I want to specialize in the 1910's for Canadian dress history).
I'm presently taking a break from upsizing and, at this point, kidna redesigning the Redthreaded half stays for my 38FF frame (sorry Cynthia, all the mistakes are my own). Definitely agree that what you're pouring into those cups helps to determine the gores size and shape.
Thank you for the introduction to the Cercassian Genocide. Yet another one I didn't learn in school.
If you ever decide to release patterns (either on your own or in partnership), please consider starting with the soft corset. It looks amazingly comfortable.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
I hate modern women's undergarments and I've been toying around with the idea of making my own. That soft corset looks really interesting...I'd love to see a video about how you made it
Oh wow, I especially loved the four way turnaround at the end of the video. VERY interesting to see how all of the shapes differ against one another. Thank you so much!
Thank-you for pointing me to these events...OY. My grandmother came from that region and she had some interesting "bras" easy to put on...I would like another way to wear some bust support that she had....
Wow! This is SO INTERESTING! The differences SEEM so slight, but when you compare them -- the differences under a gown are HUGE! Brilliant, as always!
I must say I have never focused so much on someone's breast than since I discovered this channel.
This is super insightful how each agreement shaped the body differently.
I really like the sleeves of the white gown, the little drapy details ...so cute
Really appreciate the visual presentation of the different corsets under the same dresses, it really helps with understanding how they work!
What a wonderfully interesting video! Thank you for that! One tiny suggestion: please, keep the images of the garments on for longer, it is so interesting when you talk about them. Have a fabulous day.
Excellent excellent video. You did your research impeccably and your presentation is as good as any documentary. Bravo. Well done. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
So cool! All the corsets really affect your shape in different ways, it was very interesting to see. And thanks for the history lesson, I had no idea that the Circassian Genocide had even existed. I need to go read up on that now.
And it's funny that it seems like Lady Dimitrescu is on all of costube's brain. Same.
That's a wonderful overview! Honestly, your videos are so educational, I love them!
It's important that we all have the same understanding to terms, otherwise we end up fighting over stupid stuff. Thanks for defining Regency era in fashion. This helps a ton!! Seriously just saw a thumbnail for a 1790's gown and in my head I protested that it was Regency. Now I know better, she and I were both correct.
Also, would like to add yours and Bernadette's voices are perfect for asmr. I love listening to you both, especially when you're both hand sewing. Relaxing.
#unintentionalasmr
History person here, thanks for acknowledging "political" era vs dates it's nice to get a nod. so many folks will talk about "Victorian America" and it just leaves me scratching my head, are we talking Antebellum, civil war, reconstruction, "old west", ect
The girls really seem to spill out of the 1790s ones! Though that is in line with cartoons of the day (transparent dress cartoons always crack me up). I've got a couple of pairs of short stays that I've been wearing semi-regularly and I find them very comfortable. I went horseback riding in them, skiing (!), and just doing all sorts of things. I think I ought to make a 3rd pair soon - something summery and nice.
This was a really helpful video, thank you! I am also intrigued by the idea of the circassian corset, I like the idea of a soft and easy corset, by I find crossed straps really uncomfortable to wear, so that seems like a good solution.
Thank you so much for this! I’m working on transitional 1790s stays right now and was stressing that I wasn’t getting a lot of lift or separation. Feeling much better about the situation now and more confident in this era overall!
I am so excited by these videos (and tbh, everything on your channel so far), because you're not afraid to dive very deep in your research, and your explanations of said research is so well done. That combined with seeing actual garments manages to make some dang good videos in my opinion
This video was an extremely timely find for me, i was JUST debating trying out regency. Is youtube reading my mind?!? 😂 Not the point of the video, but the sleeve detail on the white gown is just so beautiful! I was in awe the whole time. Lovely!
absolutely LOVE the comparison of fit/silhouette through the different gowns, so helpful in really understanding the differences and how they read in wear, thank you!
Second history lesson today from a historical dress channel. Thanks for condensing the research and sharing it.
Fascinating video, thank you. The sleeve detail on the white dress at around 20m is fabulous. I’d love to see how that’s made.
I love this video. While I knew historical undergarments supported the clothing and fashion of the time, putting different period designs over different period corsets really hammered that concept home
Thank you for this video, I am in the midst of searching for undergarments and corsets and stays that would fit someone of my size. Have a small waist, quite long with a heavy bust size. And many of the videos here are on yt are made by women more on the petit size. And this is the first time I have come across the mention of a Circassian corset, and that one I am really taking a liking to the most. I also like the 1790s corset. But I am thinking of marrying the two and a dash of regency. Thank you for this informative video and also showing the difference between them. Bless you!
Fascinating. Thank you very much. In British collections and museums thar Circassian corset if referred to simply as a ‘short stay’ and I hadn’t heard that story before, I will go deeper. As for the 1800 corset in the little white dress, well I understand your comments, as a woman, but I suspect there would be many men assuring you it looked just fine. Probably a good few ladies too, simply by virtue of you ‘arts and allurements’
Thanks for the history lesson as well as the new ideas for what might be a potentially comfortable bust support! I'm still trying to figure that out, I hate the underboob band on bras so I'm hoping a half-corset might do the trick and your soft corset looked really comfortable so I'll be following that link :)
I love the way you compare these and sensitively explain origins. Great work (and timely for me, I was just moving toward working on a Regency era project!).
You always do a wonderful job with this topic, as in your mentions of the importance of tailoring and upkeep of previously made garments to keep them fitting properly and beautifully complimenting your body, but I just want to commend you again on the way that you casually mention the fact that some of these garments simply do not fit you anymore, but you are still dedicated to sharing your knowledge and displaying them in the way that does the best service to both them and you. Also, I admire your willingness to invite scholarly attention to your own body as a way to teach and share the intricacies of historical fashion. I love your videos, and imagine that it might not always be easy to share that kind of content. Thank you for sharing your beautiful work, as always!
Perfect timing! I'm in need of new stays and have been pondering which style to make. This has been very helpful.
For my boy type and the amount that I dress Regency and the fact that those events I'm frequently on my own with no one to help strap me in, THIS is what I need. Thank you. You have saved me months of agonizing over which stays to have made. Also this will be vastly easier and cheaper to make than fully boned stays. My knowledge of Circassia is limited to Lawrence of Arabia, because T.E. Lawrence would often tell people he was Circassian to explain his skin color/eyes etc. since there were a lot of Circassians in the Ottoman empire at the time of the first World War. I had no idea WHY they were there though...
Thank you for the side by side. It really helped me see the drastically different shapes achieved by the different corset styles.
Nicole, you shared the information so sensitively and tastefully. Thank you for a beautiful and helpful video.
Nice to have the history lesson to complement the garment information... you talk to your furbaby like i talk to mine... polite like talking to a human. I use words like excuse me, thank you, can I get by here... lol time alone with them, I make it my world...
FASCINATING! Amazing comparisons. Thank you for all the work you put into this video so we can appreciate those subtle differences 🥰
very cool to see how subtle the changes are, yet so very different they look
Nicole, just want to say I found this video to be master class caliber. Not only well written and comprehensive but excellent in demonstration.
I always thought it would be cool to do a futuristic full bodice corset that is 'boned' with strips of Kevlar. A very stylish, fashionable and functional bullet proof vest, lol...
It’s pretty amazing that these women’s efforts to raise awareness by naming garments after the region are still having an impact today through your video (and other sources). I’m really really sad to hear what happened and that it’s still being denied today 😞
Fascinating! I think the side by side comparison was the most valuable piece of information I got from your video - I'm not terribly good with keeping the image of the previous fit in mind when I'm looking at the current garment - so to be able to pause at that point and see how everything was shifted and shaped compared to the others was very interesting.
Your videos are so soothing. Thanks for bringing a bit of peace to a crazy world x