With Ryan's ruclips.net/user/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan, I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!
my boss gave me a project like that. didn't know how difficult it was so he came in with as he says "6 of my best guys" to do one and show me who's daddy or something. took all 6 of them 13 hours to complete a job that would've taken me 3 days to do and they didn't even do it right. i never said anything but i give him that smirk every now and then any time he acts like he knows everything
@@ohasis8331 fr. i don't doubt the skills that my boss has but he can't relate to us anymore. it's been years since he laced up his boots and put on his tool belt. so he forgets that things aren't always as "simple" as it's supposd to be because there are always shit that gets in the way.
What’s up Scott, I’m starting my apprenticeship this year after my wrist heals and your videos have been getting me keen to get into the trade, cheers mate
My oldest son is in his early 20's and he has type 1 diabetes. But thank God for this piece of article ruclips.net/user/postUgkxVYhghKWmrUgXARZ_ydZTvmmcrw5L0I5i At first he thought he had the flu and was lying down on the bed for three days until his sister took him to the hospital. They took his blood and it was 600. What I do not understand is how he could have gotten it, since no one in the family has it. But he is winning the battle now. This is good stuff.
Another great video scott, thanks for your time editing, always a joy to watch. Only things we do differently than you there is solvent based glue (cut malthoid sections away for it) and we also use gorilla grip 1 hr cure for edges (the white expanding one) to prevent sqeaking between ply and rimu. Love your work and im learning something new each video, so thanks again! Chris.
If I am stiffening 2"×8" joists, which locals here in the 70's used to span 24 feet, I use Simpson CS20. Pin one end of strap at the end of joist near the top. Run it loosely under around center point and along the other side of joist to the far end where I typically attach it ( near top) with a 6" structural GRK at pocket screw angle. Tightening this screw will pre tension the strap. [ note : the entire array of joists being temporarily strong backed and jacked 3/8" high near center] then I fill the first few feet at either end with hanger nails and every six inches after that taking care to hammer the strap as it wraps under the center. Try it , you will love it.
@@stevehallam6495 Though I know I have taken several photos having used this technique again just last November, the Goo'le phone is particularly inept at storing photos. upon rereading : Please note While strap is taught , structural screw in each end, starting at one end I fill the first 2 feet of strap then proceed towards the far end toeing nails as needed to increase strap tension.
@@georgemckenzie2525 so fixing the strap to the side of the joist trying to increase the tension on it with the nailing? Similar idea to a pre stressed concrete lintel?
@@stevehallam6495 yes , even with a six inch grk at either end the aggregate power nailing audibly tightens the steel. Key to the system working is the appropriate amount of positive deflection prior to affixing strap
3rd year carpentry apprentice here from Welly, loving the channel, finally a kiwi carpentry channel I can really relate to on RUclips, when you building a piano? lol... got urself a new sub, looking forward to more content, chur!
Scott I really appreciate that you think about those coming after you, e.g. the plumber in this instance, unlike the idiots who left all the concrete under the floor. There is simply no excuse for doing things like that.
Love your channel bro,,, I'm a General Contractor, Builder in Kiwi speak, in California since 1984,,,, and we've been building "crawl spaces" the wrong since I began,,, but finally we're getting smart about it. A lot of Building Science has evolved around crawl spaces in the past 35 years. Although it may not work for all your clients cause it's a lot of money that the owners don't actually see the physical results of and the benefits in energy savings don't really kick in until the rest of the "building envelope" is upgraded there has been a lot of improved details that govern how I approach every job that involves a crawl space. I say this cause I noticed that you only replaced the vapor barrier in a limited area,,,, naaaa. It's a good thought but given the physics of below floor vapor transmission doesn't do much if anything,,, at least the owner can see that you attempted something,,, you would have been better off trying to re-install the VB the same plane, just below the sub-floor and lapped into the existing. In any case following is a decent web site and info about next level crawl space construction, insulation and vapor control,,,, cheers,,,, FYI you guy handled the covid 19 shit admirably, so impressed with the way the Island pulled it all together,,, we can learn a lot for your countries example,,, www.probuilder.com/conditioning-crawlspace
Hi Scott at 2:21 you pull out a precast concrete footing pad. Where can I source these. I’m doing the exact same job under my bathroom floor. ITM Turangi reckon they’ll have never heard of them.
@Scott Brown Carpentry Who comes and picks up those flexible garbage bins you have? Over here in Toronto it costs $200 CAD PER bag because they need a mobile crane to move it and you can't really fit much inside. Much cheaper for actual metal bins for us esp if we have lots of volume. Sometimes for smaller loads we can even get "Bins on Wheels" to come at a scheduled time and you help them load all your garbage into their bin, and they drive it away right after! Very convenient for those jobs where you only need a bin for a day or two.
The metal bits are widely used here in NZ but they are expensive and usually extra charges are geared in to take advantage of people who don't realise the weight of the trash. Bins on Wheels sounds a good option - I've used a landscaper that offers that service with his tipper truck and labourer. Charges just an hourly charge! Personally I have found it cheaper and more convenient to buy 2 extra single axle trailers to leave at sites and do the removal myself. Although, I have decent parking for the extra trailers etc. at my own house!
Much love from the U.S. just watched a guy from U.S. break up a slab of concrete and stop to say oh gotta take off my $8,000 watch... stopped that video and came here
Do you need to take special measures to prevent damaging the rest of the floor inside the house? I'd be nervous about having concrete slabs and wheelbarrows on an indoor wooden floor.
Shouldn’t the concrete go under the post as well as just around it to encapsulate the end of the post rather than forming a collar around the post base? Just asking
Hello! First time speaker, long time listener, Scott! Nice and informative vids as always, have used your vids to confirm my choice to invest inn brushless Makita. Have ordered a set with 5 tools, the jigsaw and a 2.0 amp battery to it, on your recommendation, for balance. I have used mostly Hitachi, Bosch, Hilti and some festool. Do love the later, but to pricy. I was a carpenter before i started on my university degree here in Norway. Still build, and bought my first house last year, and did a makeover, all walls, celings, electric(elko plus) and plumbing. I like your vids, and Follow essensial craftman, both of you have good hands and good knowledge! Most interesting is how different the house is built around the world. Its colder here, so all the dimensions is a lot bigger, and the isolation is bigger and more places. Like under the floor. Either rock or glass wool. And 99% of houses have foundations with cellars. Keep safe, and build on. Thanks!
Another great vid Scott.keep them up. Just a question on your pricing for your labour costs. Would just like abit of info on how you work it all out as by the looks of it you didn't realise there was concrete to be cleared underneath. HOW DO you price for that if you didn't realise it was there. B great if you could give us a mention and maybe a future video on how you go about it. Take care John from Pembrokeshire,Wales,UK x
usually in contracts like that you have a price per hour for surprises like that if it really affect the delivery of the project. at least its how we do in canada :P
in my experience putting vapor barrier directly on dirt promotes the growth of mould and if any leak at all it will attack all wood in the area . people been using that method for 30+ years in canada now and i've been taking it out all over because it turns the joist into mush or dry rot.....just a note
Nope, Not in the soils or the climate we have here in NZ. Poly on ground us the best thing you can do for an old house. Done properly the moisture is trapped beneath the poly - that's the point.
If you're getting moisture building in the crawl-space (where the joists you mention are) even with a ground barrier, either it wasn't done properly or you still have a moisture problem from another source and a ventilation problem.
Question about that moisture barrier, since you've only put the new piece under where you've cut out the old stuff, wont the surrounding ground still produce moisture and make its way to the new section of floor?
@@ScottBrownCarpentrylook forward to a full video on the moisture barrier. Got the stuff in my garage for a year to do under the house, so any pointers appreciated.
Dujbzy, yes you are absolutely right. That patch of poly will do next to nothing in that space without covering the whole area right to the perimeter. Misunderstanding of vapour barriers and insulation is THE reason why we need the govt regulation over insulation when it affects the exterior envelope of a building. It's a classic case of a little knowledge being a dangerous thing.
an easy task as changing a window bench can be really time consuming, wich i experienced this week. first you need to remove the old and make space for the new. and its doesnt get easier when the house is more than roughly 100 yrs old :D things do take time. tha nailgun youre using at 3:15. what size of the nails? looks like a paslode to me and is just shooting thin nails for trimmings etc.
I have found that diagonal bracing goes a long way for tying and stiffing framing. 45 deg us convenient however sometimes a different angle will fit the bill
Man I'm hooked your channel so awesome! I just completed the same work on a 100 year old house that had firewood blocks for piles - I had to pack the ply as well the native flooring was 24mm why do you glue the tha packer? I was thinking about it but didn't?
That is the DMR200 Bluetooth little Makita which does not have a radio tuner. They produce good solid sound but the Bluetooth range is absolute crappola. Get your phone 10 paces away even in an open room and they start dropping signal.
Cassette Walkman I agree! Bluetooth is pretty dodgy on them. It’s a good solid speaker though with AUX and can get smashed and dusted around all day and still work like a charm. I got mine free with a tool set, but I don’t know if I’d choose to buy one.
Tim Hanby It's weird tho', I also have the other Makita Bluetooth radio with the speaker either side and the Bluetooth signal will go through several walls in a house. The bass on these small ones sounds better tho.
Love this channel!, im currently watching it to try and familiarise myself with the trade before i do a trial, so i'd love to, every now and then of course, to see a more descriptive way to do the job, i.e your thoughts on the job you're doing, the math logic behind the job also, just basically a more in-depth look at the job. once again, love the channel! i'm looking forward to more videos :)
Didn't need to. I guess you didn't pay attention to the bit where the floor at that point was already level and even with all but the high point at the inside wall. Nice audience-work.
hi scott, interested in getting this done for my house. a few of the rooms have bouncy floors. The house has a decent sized crawl-space under the house. is it possible to do this from the bottom without ripping the flooring?
Yea you can. It would just be more difficult but so long as you have enough room to work down there you can. I have done it with out removing the flooring
Hey Scott I’m a 2nd year apprentice carpenter I went out bought a makita battery saw went to use it to rip out a wall cut 3 studs and it just stopped working all together spewing also love the videos I can relate what jobs you guys do to what I do at work keep it up 👍🏻
You should get you a small 7 1/4 corded skillsaw. It's better for live loads on the cuts caused by twists and downward pressure. You can get more power in to each cut without worrying about binding. I know it's an added pain in the ass with needing a chord, but it will save your cordless and make it last alot longer. I make my apprentices understand when to use what tool and try and gauge how much stress is going to be applied just for that reason. I've had to replace alot of tools over the years that they've burnt out simply from improper use.
I can understand that. We saw him remove the old sidewalk/pavement, dig some holes and fill them with concrete to create footers, and install a support beam. He then told us (but didn't show us) that he put concrete blocks on top of the footers and installed wood posts to support the beam. You can see the posts at 6:14 when he is putting in the vapor barrier.
nice. did u only add small amounts of glue for "future removal". please use longer screws like 3 inch to secure the plywood to the beams. lates great vid
Wait so you just replace it with ply wood n leave it like that it’s not the same flooring tho the rest is hard wood flooring planks ain’t it or are my eyes deceiving me ?
2:25. "Not the most pleasant job, is it?". Closed captions reads: now let's enjoy pizza. RUclips knew you were thinking about smoko! And 6:04, the plastic gives you a round of applause!
@@ScottBrownCarpentry I can recommend the King Gee range of slip-ons - Specifically the Flinders. By far the most comfortable for my feet and just coincidentally well priced.
You should make more channels. Make a channel for flooring, walls, and structural. Each of your original subscribers will now turn into 3 subscribers. Turning 50k into approximately 100k given a rate of failure of those who didn't subscribe to all 3.
With Ryan's ruclips.net/user/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan, I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!
This is one of those, "Are they done yet??" jobs. Jobs that look and sound simple are always the ones that take some time to do right. Nice work guys.
Very true!
So true
my boss gave me a project like that. didn't know how difficult it was so he came in with as he says "6 of my best guys" to do one and show me who's daddy or something. took all 6 of them 13 hours to complete a job that would've taken me 3 days to do and they didn't even do it right. i never said anything but i give him that smirk every now and then any time he acts like he knows everything
Carpentry is never sound and simple. But its addictive and then becomes enjoyable
@@ohasis8331 fr. i don't doubt the skills that my boss has but he can't relate to us anymore. it's been years since he laced up his boots and put on his tool belt. so he forgets that things aren't always as "simple" as it's supposd to be because there are always shit that gets in the way.
What’s up Scott, I’m starting my apprenticeship this year after my wrist heals and your videos have been getting me keen to get into the trade, cheers mate
All good man, get well soon
My oldest son is in his early 20's and he has type 1 diabetes. But thank God for this piece of article ruclips.net/user/postUgkxVYhghKWmrUgXARZ_ydZTvmmcrw5L0I5i At first he thought he had the flu and was lying down on the bed for three days until his sister took him to the hospital. They took his blood and it was 600. What I do not understand is how he could have gotten it, since no one in the family has it. But he is winning the battle now. This is good stuff.
10/10 on that paver roll.
“Paerau the Dino Hunter” has a ring to it.
Can’t believe you thought to leave the beams under floor for later. Solid work
Another great video scott, thanks for your time editing, always a joy to watch. Only things we do differently than you there is solvent based glue (cut malthoid sections away for it) and we also use gorilla grip 1 hr cure for edges (the white expanding one) to prevent sqeaking between ply and rimu. Love your work and im learning something new each video, so thanks again! Chris.
You forgot to say: -"Scott Brown here!" :'(
Yeah that bummed me out too 😂👊🏽
😂 woops
That tripped me out. I was trying to listen out for it, but it never came. It needed the Scott Brown intro.
Fun video, love your butterfly channel!
If I am stiffening 2"×8" joists, which locals here in the 70's used to span 24 feet, I use Simpson CS20. Pin one end of strap at the end of joist near the top. Run it loosely under around center point and along the other side of joist to the far end where I typically attach it ( near top) with a 6" structural GRK at pocket screw angle. Tightening this screw will pre tension the strap. [ note : the entire array of joists being temporarily strong backed and jacked 3/8" high near center] then I fill the first few feet at either end with hanger nails and every six inches after that taking care to hammer the strap as it wraps under the center.
Try it , you will love it.
that project sounds interesting George ....any pictures?
@@stevehallam6495
Though I know I have taken several photos having used this technique again just last November, the Goo'le phone is particularly inept at storing photos.
upon rereading :
Please note
While strap is taught , structural screw in each end, starting at one end I fill the first 2 feet of strap then proceed towards the far end toeing nails as needed to increase strap tension.
@@georgemckenzie2525 so fixing the strap to the side of the joist trying to increase the tension on it with the nailing? Similar idea to a pre stressed concrete lintel?
@@stevehallam6495 yes , even with a six inch grk at either end the aggregate power nailing audibly tightens the steel.
Key to the system working is the appropriate amount of positive deflection prior to affixing strap
Watching your videos makes me stay in Carpentery👍 ma'man.
3rd year carpentry apprentice here from Welly, loving the channel, finally a kiwi carpentry channel I can really relate to on RUclips, when you building a piano? lol... got urself a new sub, looking forward to more content, chur!
I had no idea you had monarchs in New Zealand ... you could also add some copper pipe clamps to those water supply lines
It's a part of the English Commonwealth, so same queen as England
HECK YEAH!! What's up Scott Brown Carpentry! Super stoked to hang out and watch the vid!
I don't know many plumbers that would be able to fit through that opening... Plumbers there must be 1/4 the size of the ones I've met here in the US.
😂
Thanks for watching !
could you loan the Crazy Framer youre nail gun and some warmer weather.
Don't know how well the gas would work up there
Scott I really appreciate that you think about those coming after you, e.g. the plumber in this instance, unlike the idiots who left all the concrete under the floor. There is simply no excuse for doing things like that.
Nice ply finish 🤣🤣🤣
Love your channel bro,,, I'm a General Contractor, Builder in Kiwi speak, in California since 1984,,,, and we've been building "crawl spaces" the wrong since I began,,, but finally we're getting smart about it. A lot of Building Science has evolved around crawl spaces in the past 35 years. Although it may not work for all your clients cause it's a lot of money that the owners don't actually see the physical results of and the benefits in energy savings don't really kick in until the rest of the "building envelope" is upgraded there has been a lot of improved details that govern how I approach every job that involves a crawl space. I say this cause I noticed that you only replaced the vapor barrier in a limited area,,,, naaaa. It's a good thought but given the physics of below floor vapor transmission doesn't do much if anything,,, at least the owner can see that you attempted something,,, you would have been better off trying to re-install the VB the same plane, just below the sub-floor and lapped into the existing. In any case following is a decent web site and info about next level crawl space construction, insulation and vapor control,,,, cheers,,,, FYI you guy handled the covid 19 shit admirably, so impressed with the way the Island pulled it all together,,, we can learn a lot for your countries example,,,
www.probuilder.com/conditioning-crawlspace
Are you leaving the plywood instead of the finished flooring
Hey Pareau, let me hold the light for you while you get all that concrete out!
Did you do crown up when supporting them beams
Homeowner has to love that. Can’t imagine having hole in floor like that. Nice work guys.
never do comment just see al the vids man keep ip the good work post more videos bro i hope you explode on youtube.
Hi Scott at 2:21 you pull out a precast concrete footing pad. Where can I source these. I’m doing the exact same job under my bathroom floor. ITM Turangi reckon they’ll have never heard of them.
What kind of flooring are the customers getting done
@Scott Brown Carpentry Who comes and picks up those flexible garbage bins you have? Over here in Toronto it costs $200 CAD PER bag because they need a mobile crane to move it and you can't really fit much inside. Much cheaper for actual metal bins for us esp if we have lots of volume. Sometimes for smaller loads we can even get "Bins on Wheels" to come at a scheduled time and you help them load all your garbage into their bin, and they drive it away right after! Very convenient for those jobs where you only need a bin for a day or two.
The metal bits are widely used here in NZ but they are expensive and usually extra charges are geared in to take advantage of people who don't realise the weight of the trash. Bins on Wheels sounds a good option - I've used a landscaper that offers that service with his tipper truck and labourer. Charges just an hourly charge! Personally I have found it cheaper and more convenient to buy 2 extra single axle trailers to leave at sites and do the removal myself. Although, I have decent parking for the extra trailers etc. at my own house!
Why the hell have you got ply in the middle of the floor boards ?
he probably scraped those when he removed them and is going to use the floor boards as a subfloor for what ever he is going to put in that kitchen
Bro are u triggered or you didn't watch the entirety of the video?
I was thinking the same thing too. I guess if they are going to do a kitchen remodel would get new flooring done. 🤔
"All that yoga's paying off" lol classic padeau
Much love from the U.S. just watched a guy from U.S. break up a slab of concrete and stop to say oh gotta take off my $8,000 watch... stopped that video and came here
Jon Snow handyman?
@@eddiebarry4199Haha, I'm not saying names but I liked your comment! ; )
Do you need to take special measures to prevent damaging the rest of the floor inside the house? I'd be nervous about having concrete slabs and wheelbarrows on an indoor wooden floor.
Great job.
Very good carpentery
I am Indian carpenter
I might have missed something, did youse just replace the hardwood floorboards with a sheet of CD grade plywood?
I thought the same, floor must be being changed i assume
You did miss something, but it was in the previous episode. The whole floor is getting new over-lay flooring on top.
that's a hell of a spacing for floor joists no? What is that? 600mm on center? I think my house is 300mm or 400mm at the most
Shouldn’t the concrete go under the post as well as just around it to encapsulate the end of the post rather than forming a collar around the post base? Just asking
Azza 179 I think that little circle block was a punch pad
To neat mate love you’re Chanel
Hello! First time speaker, long time listener, Scott! Nice and informative vids as always, have used your vids to confirm my choice to invest inn brushless Makita. Have ordered a set with 5 tools, the jigsaw and a 2.0 amp battery to it, on your recommendation, for balance. I have used mostly Hitachi, Bosch, Hilti and some festool. Do love the later, but to pricy. I was a carpenter before i started on my university degree here in Norway. Still build, and bought my first house last year, and did a makeover, all walls, celings, electric(elko plus) and plumbing. I like your vids, and Follow essensial craftman, both of you have good hands and good knowledge! Most interesting is how different the house is built around the world. Its colder here, so all the dimensions is a lot bigger, and the isolation is bigger and more places. Like under the floor. Either rock or glass wool. And 99% of houses have foundations with cellars. Keep safe, and build on. Thanks!
are those two 2x4's? if so..isnt that too weak of a post ? .. Wouldn't 4x6's be preferred as a support?
JRE podcast for the win!
No dust sheets down to protect the other flooring ?
I listen to JRE while I bang nails in too 🤙
That was mean thanks guys
Another great vid Scott.keep them up.
Just a question on your pricing for your labour costs.
Would just like abit of info on how you work it all out as by the looks of it you didn't realise there was concrete to be cleared underneath.
HOW DO you price for that if you didn't realise it was there.
B great if you could give us a mention and maybe a future video on how you go about it.
Take care John from Pembrokeshire,Wales,UK x
usually in contracts like that you have a price per hour for surprises like that if it really affect the delivery of the project. at least its how we do in canada :P
in my experience putting vapor barrier directly on dirt promotes the growth of mould and if any leak at all it will attack all wood in the area . people been using that method for 30+ years in canada now and i've been taking it out all over because it turns the joist into mush or dry rot.....just a note
Nope, Not in the soils or the climate we have here in NZ. Poly on ground us the best thing you can do for an old house. Done properly the moisture is trapped beneath the poly - that's the point.
If you're getting moisture building in the crawl-space (where the joists you mention are) even with a ground barrier, either it wasn't done properly or you still have a moisture problem from another source and a ventilation problem.
Just started watching your guys channel. Love Mahi boys, keep up the meke work 🤙
Great vid Scott and padeau
whats the size of the two pieces of timber you nail together as the bearer?
How are you finding the hammer Scott? Also what laser are you running?
Question about that moisture barrier, since you've only put the new piece under where you've cut out the old stuff, wont the surrounding ground still produce moisture and make its way to the new section of floor?
No it won't. It just wont
@@tderozan3868 Can you explain why? I'm curious
Eventually the whole house will have the new stuff, we just did this bit while it was easier to do so. The underfloor insulation will be done last too
@@ScottBrownCarpentrylook forward to a full video on the moisture barrier. Got the stuff in my garage for a year to do under the house, so any pointers appreciated.
Dujbzy, yes you are absolutely right. That patch of poly will do next to nothing in that space without covering the whole area right to the perimeter. Misunderstanding of vapour barriers and insulation is THE reason why we need the govt regulation over insulation when it affects the exterior envelope of a building. It's a classic case of a little knowledge being a dangerous thing.
Good work. Was there no other way to do this without pulling up the floor? I’m looking to add piers and beams without all the mess
What’s the handiest clamp size? 12 inch?
Did you put glue onto malthoid?
Such great content. Bing watching your channel. Thank you!
A fellow JRE listener. Makes sense considering how mellow Scott is.
Love the Goodfellas reference haha keep up the good work fellas.
an easy task as changing a window bench can be really time consuming, wich i experienced this week. first you need to remove the old and make space for the new. and its doesnt get easier when the house is more than roughly 100 yrs old :D things do take time. tha nailgun youre using at 3:15. what size of the nails? looks like a paslode to me and is just shooting thin nails for trimmings etc.
Micke, it is a paslode gun, but that's a framing gun, 50 to 80 ml nails.
Is H3 ply better than strandfloor?
@6:30 should you have sistered so you Would have a continuous line?
The blocks between the floor joists that I would call "bridging" it sounds like you're calling "Nogs". Can anyone explain this term?
We call them nogs slang for noggins, but they can be called bridging or herring bone struts depending on where you from, dwangs is another one
I find the hammering satisfying
I have found that diagonal bracing goes a long way for tying and stiffing framing. 45 deg us convenient however sometimes a different angle will fit the bill
Good videos man!
not too sure what the glue atop the malthoid achieves?
The only thing I didn’t understand why you not installed the floor board in in repairing place?
Man I'm hooked your channel so awesome! I just completed the same work on a 100 year old house that had firewood blocks for piles - I had to pack the ply as well the native flooring was 24mm why do you glue the tha packer? I was thinking about it but didn't?
Whats that makita radio with the screen? That would be unreal to have on the jobsite
Ian I could be wrong, but it looks like a DMR200 with a smart phone propped up in the handle part. www.makita.co.nz/products/model/DMR200
That is the DMR200 Bluetooth little Makita which does not have a radio tuner. They produce good solid sound but the Bluetooth range is absolute crappola. Get your phone 10 paces away even in an open room and they start dropping signal.
Cassette Walkman I agree! Bluetooth is pretty dodgy on them. It’s a good solid speaker though with AUX and can get smashed and dusted around all day and still work like a charm. I got mine free with a tool set, but I don’t know if I’d choose to buy one.
Tim Hanby It's weird tho', I also have the other Makita Bluetooth radio with the speaker either side and the Bluetooth signal will go through several walls in a house. The bass on these small ones sounds better tho.
What's included in my Shed Proposal?
Douglas hammer?
how much you pay for them skip bags , one that exact size
And no insulation... Classic NZ!
Love this channel!, im currently watching it to try and familiarise myself with the trade before i do a trial, so i'd love to, every now and then of course, to see a more descriptive way to do the job, i.e your thoughts on the job you're doing, the math logic behind the job also, just basically a more in-depth look at the job. once again, love the channel! i'm looking forward to more videos :)
impressed as always ,,good job guys and entertaining ,,,,,
Didn't jack the bearer? Nice handiwork
Didn't need to. I guess you didn't pay attention to the bit where the floor at that point was already level and even with all but the high point at the inside wall. Nice audience-work.
good god man, are those floor joists on 24 inch centers? thats your problem right there
Good work lads! Happy new to you both! Chur
wheres the r rating??? does it get cold in the winter in australia?
hi scott, interested in getting this done for my house. a few of the rooms have bouncy floors. The house has a decent sized crawl-space under the house. is it possible to do this from the bottom without ripping the flooring?
Yea you can. It would just be more difficult but so long as you have enough room to work down there you can. I have done it with out removing the flooring
Dinosaurs and butterflies. Great channel by the way. I am now addicted to this elevator music.
Hey Scott I’m a 2nd year apprentice carpenter I went out bought a makita battery saw went to use it to rip out a wall cut 3 studs and it just stopped working all together spewing also love the videos I can relate what jobs you guys do to what I do at work keep it up 👍🏻
Did you charge or change the battery.
fanaticz666 I did both
Bummer, should be covered under the 3 year warranty?
Scott Brown Carpentry Yeah it is just got it changed it’s weird that it just stopped working
You should get you a small 7 1/4 corded skillsaw. It's better for live loads on the cuts caused by twists and downward pressure. You can get more power in to each cut without worrying about binding. I know it's an added pain in the ass with needing a chord, but it will save your cordless and make it last alot longer. I make my apprentices understand when to use what tool and try and gauge how much stress is going to be applied just for that reason. I've had to replace alot of tools over the years that they've burnt out simply from improper use.
Should've put a Secret Compartment for hiding or repairing
I am not convinced about what he did exactly to fix the problem...
I can understand that. We saw him remove the old sidewalk/pavement, dig some holes and fill them with concrete to create footers, and install a support beam. He then told us (but didn't show us) that he put concrete blocks on top of the footers and installed wood posts to support the beam. You can see the posts at 6:14 when he is putting in the vapor barrier.
Jimmy 2 times get the papers the papers 😂😂😂😂
nice. did u only add small amounts of glue for "future removal". please use longer screws like 3 inch to secure the plywood to the beams. lates great vid
The screw only needs to go in 75% mord than the thickness of the material being fixed
Does your radio have a screen? Or is it like n ipad on it?
Just my phone sitting on top of the speaker. Bluetooth speaker
@@ScottBrownCarpentry oh very good I was going to say I need one
Love how your protected the floor and everything else. Like WTF!
The other problem is how far apart the floor joist are!
Why is there no subfloor?
Was the the Joe Rogan podcast playing on the makita speaker?
Are you going back to do the floor after?
In a previous episode, he said he doesn't do flooring
@@muffinsmuffins8074 He said he doesn't do kitchens.
@@nomiozz ahhh yes
Might do!
Nice
What is the tool called at 3:10 that he is using to dig?
In the US, we call that a posthole digger.
@@donbushek i asked that question 7 months ago and I only watched a video yesterday that said the name of it. But thanks for your reply
Patch was almost perfect match ;)
Wait so you just replace it with ply wood n leave it like that it’s not the same flooring tho the rest is hard wood flooring planks ain’t it or are my eyes deceiving me ?
That's the floor. The wood flooring goes on top of it
2:25. "Not the most pleasant job, is it?".
Closed captions reads: now let's enjoy pizza. RUclips knew you were thinking about smoko!
And 6:04, the plastic gives you a round of applause!
What are the slip on boots you wear called.
John Bull, Cougar 2.0
Thank You
@@ScottBrownCarpentry I can recommend the King Gee range of slip-ons - Specifically the Flinders. By far the most comfortable for my feet and just coincidentally well priced.
What? No insulation in the floor?
U in australia?
Hes in new zealand
Instead of solid noggins herringbone strutting which self tightens. Most probably have never heard of it lol
So, I'm guessing the subfloor wasn't glued to the floor joists....
You should make more channels. Make a channel for flooring, walls, and structural. Each of your original subscribers will now turn into 3 subscribers. Turning 50k into approximately 100k given a rate of failure of those who didn't subscribe to all 3.