In Fairbanks Alaska, I overwinter with a 25-watt heated hive stand, 2, 10 frame deep boxes, 4" blue foam insulation on all 4 sides, a veltilated top box full of wood shavings with a 4" sleeve to drop in a mason jar for feeding, and 4" of blue foam insulation on top. Haven't lost a colony.
I am from Canada and I use wood but mostly poly hives and your nailed it to a key insulation is big and I wish I could get some old timers to listen this is the best method I know my my bees eat .5 pounds of food a week and a wood hive with top entrance would eat 3 pounds
We know from Etienne's research (and may anecdotal accounts) that a well insulated colony only goes through 25-30 lbs of resources all winter. keep spreading the word!
Every tree-hollow would DEFINITELY have one wall/side that would be thinner/less-insulated than the others. Probably not the ceiling. That is all you'd need to know, because moisture would condense on the thinnest wall and be available to slurp up for their various needs. Boom. Insulate with the highest r-value on top, moderate r-value on three sides, one side with no/less insulation than the others to act as a condenser that makes moisture available, and a way for the excess to drain from the bottom without being drafty enough to chill them beyond their ability to tolerate. That's it. Your bees will be happy, given that they were healthy going into winter to begin with.
One side of a natural tree cavity may be thinner, but perhaps only marginally so. I use poly hives with an R value of about 7.5. I add 4" of insulation above. I've added 2" of insulation on all sides, and other times 2" of insulation on sides (leaving the front R value at. only 7.5). I haven't noticed any difference between insulating 3 and 4 sides. If they're healthy, crowded, and well fed, they survive.
There are two reasons: 1. They have a firm belief that moisture in a colony is the biggest threat. 2. They've successfully wintered with top entrances, and they want to stick with what works. I had upper entrances on all of my colonies until 3 years ago. The science got me to try bottom entrance only. I didn't overwinter more colonies, but my overwintered colonies were much stronger. I'm a believe now.
He is good he is very smart my Yukon friend im glade you listen to us Canadians
Thanks for watching.
In Fairbanks Alaska, I overwinter with a 25-watt heated hive stand, 2, 10 frame deep boxes, 4" blue foam insulation on all 4 sides, a veltilated top box full of wood shavings with a 4" sleeve to drop in a mason jar for feeding, and 4" of blue foam insulation on top. Haven't lost a colony.
I'd like to hear more. Could you give me more info on how long you've been doing this and how many colonies you manage?
I am from Canada and I use wood but mostly poly hives and your nailed it to a key insulation is big and I wish I could get some old timers to listen this is the best method I know my my bees eat .5 pounds of food a week and a wood hive with top entrance would eat 3 pounds
We know from Etienne's research (and may anecdotal accounts) that a well insulated colony only goes through 25-30 lbs of resources all winter. keep spreading the word!
Every tree-hollow would DEFINITELY have one wall/side that would be thinner/less-insulated than the others. Probably not the ceiling. That is all you'd need to know, because moisture would condense on the thinnest wall and be available to slurp up for their various needs. Boom.
Insulate with the highest r-value on top, moderate r-value on three sides, one side with no/less insulation than the others to act as a condenser that makes moisture available, and a way for the excess to drain from the bottom without being drafty enough to chill them beyond their ability to tolerate. That's it. Your bees will be happy, given that they were healthy going into winter to begin with.
One side of a natural tree cavity may be thinner, but perhaps only marginally so. I use poly hives with an R value of about 7.5. I add 4" of insulation above. I've added 2" of insulation on all sides, and other times 2" of insulation on sides (leaving the front R value at. only 7.5). I haven't noticed any difference between insulating 3 and 4 sides. If they're healthy, crowded, and well fed, they survive.
What do Quiney'S RN and BSN degrees have to do with beekeeping? A bit pretentious.
It's just part of his bio. He doesn't claim his nursing education equates to beekeeping expertise.
😂😂😂😂😂 I don’t know why people won’t listen no top
Entrances
There are two reasons:
1. They have a firm belief that moisture in a colony is the biggest threat.
2. They've successfully wintered with top entrances, and they want to stick with what works.
I had upper entrances on all of my colonies until 3 years ago. The science got me to try bottom entrance only. I didn't overwinter more colonies, but my overwintered colonies were much stronger. I'm a believe now.