I'm sure glad I found your video this is exactly what I want to do to fix this switch. The rotary contact came off the knob so I needed to know how it should be aligned. I think I might be able to figure it out by watching your video again. Thanks again for showing the inside of the switch.
Thank you! My switch was becoming flimsy, and I fixed it with the help of your video. Since they all look to be the same, I decided to switch the legs from A and 1, as the leg from the light (1) looked in much better shape.
Very good video, gave me the knowledge and confidence to unplug the wires from the switch, test it, and open it up. But turned out it was all good and the problem was a blown thermal fuse which explained the "no power / no lights". Managed to fix that and the unit is back in service.
Thanks! This video gave me courage to tackle a stuck switch im a milkhouse heater. Turned out that the switch got hot...melted the factory glue applied to keep the knob attached; stuck the switch shaft to the te body.
Very well done. Covered pretty much everything. Unfortunately my switch is completely sealed . I ordered a new one with a higher amp rating than mine but I believe all the mounting locations are same. I'll know when Amazon drops it off in a day.
Not my exact problem, but this video helped me immensely; I was then able to understand & make a similar repair on a Patton fan. Knowledge is power (& in this case $). Thanks for sharing yours & helping others. Great explanation.
Good educated video, I ended up taking u 1st advise, wire all line together, and it work like a charm again. Maybe later on, I will add a on/off switch at the middle of the power line, so it will not cause a spark to scare my mom when plug in. Thank you very much, thumbs up !!!
Thank you for the explanation of the switches. I now know what is happening with my replacement switch and will be able to create a working switch for my shop heater.
Just did this to a Heater before watching you vid it works fine...but if your Heater has a thermostat like mine you can use thermostat to turn on and off
Oh man thank you for this. I had this exact heater and it wouldn't turn off you could feel the switch was broken, I grabbed a very similar switch from another broken heater and when I opened it up all the parts flew off so I had no idea how to put the "new" switch back together correctly
With some crafting you can use a rocker switch or even a light switch to add on/off functionality. Maybe even link 3 of them in the correct way to recreate the 4 positions of the rotary switch.
Excellent video. On my heater DQ1702 the 4 position switch: position 1 is off; 2 is fan, 3 is fan with low heat, 4 is fan with high heat. The problem is when in 3 or 4, the room attains the set min-to-max temperature the fan and element turn off until heat is called for again. I would like to have the fan always-on regardless of the room temperature. Of course the elements would still auto-off when the room temperature setting is achieved. I hope that makes sense. Is there a way to do this?
Please i need help.My heater trapps and i found that there is a blue cable inside that is broken and i m not sure that is was connected to the fan inside.Is four bar Aim heater.
I see that you never show it working after your "Repair". I would NEVER try to "rehab" a switch that has so clearly overheated like that. MAYBE if you moved the fried contact to the (low current) LED indicator output, but even that is not going to be that reliable after so much heat damage. On my ceramic w/fan heater that uses this same switch, the On Indicator is also the Fan circuit, and the last thing you want is for the heating element to be on and the fan off!
Chincy fucking Chinesium switches. No wonder these things melt so easily with how they have the wires "secured" in them. If anyone has an STL for the plastic piece that turns the switch, I would be greatly appreciative of it! Mine had the bottom completely melt away and there is nothing for the brass part to turn with. I'm not proficient enough with any CAD to be able to model it correctly without having the original part at least somewhat intact
5 years later and your video is still helping people! Thank you!!
I'm sure glad I found your video this is exactly what I want to do to fix this switch. The rotary contact came off the knob so I needed to know how it should be aligned. I think I might be able to figure it out by watching your video again. Thanks again for showing the inside of the switch.
Perfect video. The explanation of the switch wiring schemes was spot on. Thank you.
Thank you! My switch was becoming flimsy, and I fixed it with the help of your video. Since they all look to be the same, I decided to switch the legs from A and 1, as the leg from the light (1) looked in much better shape.
That's clever, nice work!
Very good video, gave me the knowledge and confidence to unplug the wires from the switch, test it, and open it up. But turned out it was all good and the problem was a blown thermal fuse which explained the "no power / no lights". Managed to fix that and the unit is back in service.
Nice work, mate!
Thanks! This video gave me courage to tackle a stuck switch im a milkhouse heater. Turned out that the switch got hot...melted the factory glue applied to keep the knob attached; stuck the switch shaft to the te body.
Glad it helped!
Very well done. Covered pretty much everything. Unfortunately my switch is completely sealed . I ordered a new one with a higher amp rating than mine but I believe all the mounting locations are same. I'll know when Amazon drops it off in a day.
I used your 60 second fix. Worked like a charm. Probably going to buy a new heater this weekend just to be safe.
Not my exact problem, but this video helped me immensely; I was then able to understand & make a similar repair on a Patton fan. Knowledge is power (& in this case $). Thanks for sharing yours & helping others. Great explanation.
I agree with Okie-Tom. VERY thorough explanation & great camera work. Could not have been better. Thank you.
Good educated video, I ended up taking u 1st advise, wire all line together, and it work like a charm again. Maybe later on, I will add a on/off switch at the middle of the power line, so it will not cause a spark to scare my mom when plug in. Thank you very much, thumbs up !!!
Very thorough Sir! Thank you for sharing this video with us. I always like to learn something. Tom
Turns out I have the L2-L12 switch:)
Sometimes I feel like these components should not be rated for 1/2KW...
Thank you for the explanation of the switches. I now know what is happening with my replacement switch and will be able to create a working switch for my shop heater.
Just did this to a Heater before watching you vid it works fine...but if your Heater has a thermostat like mine you can use thermostat to turn on and off
Oh man thank you for this. I had this exact heater and it wouldn't turn off you could feel the switch was broken, I grabbed a very similar switch from another broken heater and when I opened it up all the parts flew off so I had no idea how to put the "new" switch back together correctly
Glad I could help
With some crafting you can use a rocker switch or even a light switch to add on/off functionality. Maybe even link 3 of them in the correct way to recreate the 4 positions of the rotary switch.
This is how tutorials should be! Well done, you solved my problem!
Thanks for watching!
Very enjoyable video and explained everything simply. Am I correct that the shipping cost on the 21 cent switch was over a hundred dollars?
Thank you so much for the video. that is good instruction. I got same heater and the same problem, where did you buy the knob?
Electrical supply store, local. Also one online resource is Newark element 14 site.
@@theoverengineer Thank you so much!
Excellent video. On my heater DQ1702 the 4 position switch: position 1 is off; 2 is fan, 3 is fan with low heat, 4 is fan with high heat. The problem is when in 3 or 4, the room attains the set min-to-max temperature the fan and element turn off until heat is called for again. I would like to have the fan always-on regardless of the room temperature. Of course the elements would still auto-off when the room temperature setting is achieved. I hope that makes sense. Is there a way to do this?
Never stop making videos! you should have more views :/
thx 4 watching!
This was a big help.
Thanks for the information
tb
U are genius man.
Thank you for the great video. Hopefully I can now salvage my Lasko pivoting blower fan, since Lasko has no replacement parts.
Notice that the Chinese Company Tuowei wanted $179.92 U.S. for shipping!
Yup, because it is a bulk order of 1000 pieces at 21 cents each. ^_^
excellent explanation thank you very much
Please i need help.My heater trapps and i found that there is a blue cable inside that is broken and i m not sure that is was connected to the fan inside.Is four bar Aim heater.
Excellent video
Thanks!
Thank you
Thanks!!
I see that you never show it working after your "Repair". I would NEVER try to "rehab" a switch that has so clearly overheated like that. MAYBE if you moved the fried contact to the (low current) LED indicator output, but even that is not going to be that reliable after so much heat damage. On my ceramic w/fan heater that uses this same switch, the On Indicator is also the Fan circuit, and the last thing you want is for the heating element to be on and the fan off!
Chincy fucking Chinesium switches. No wonder these things melt so easily with how they have the wires "secured" in them. If anyone has an STL for the plastic piece that turns the switch, I would be greatly appreciative of it! Mine had the bottom completely melt away and there is nothing for the brass part to turn with. I'm not proficient enough with any CAD to be able to model it correctly without having the original part at least somewhat intact
11:55 save you some time.