I've been looking at YT videos and books for more than a week to help me understand scythe set up, angles, and how those relate to movement....your explanation is the best / most clear / most helpful (by far).
Great instruction have watched all your videos and my mowing is much better. The videos on ground pressure and the finer points of honing helped me a lot. Thank you Dave
We have just purchased a new snath and blade for mowing our meadow. Your video is one of the best setup videos I have found. Thank you for you content! It is a blessing.
for many months I was looking for a video with explanations about this tool. Your video is fantastic. You are a great professional. Thanks a lot. Gratitude!!!!!!
Jan as always in your top videos is talking the experience! Sharing your knoledge you make a great work for us bad mowers. And i'm really really honored to watch your videos. Stefano
Thank you very much for this awesome video series, very much appreciated here in Switzerland, where using the scythe never got forgotten ! Around 17:17 : there is no risk for the tang to break ? Wouldn't it be safer to heat it before trying to bend it ?
Thanks! There is a risk but it is hardly visible ..I never broke one or made a crack when setting the lay like this. The risk is if the hardening process has gone wrong during manufacturing.
Spinning the hex key with a single finger is very satisfying and fun. Once you learn your mechanical inclinations (idk what else to call it) try to do it, it's also very fast and convenient as it's almost as fast as a drill but far less expensive ;) Unfortunately, this technique only works on high quality new and/or well maintained hardware. But it's also a quality test, even small imperfections will cause it to hang up and truly bent or misshapen hardware won't let you do this at all.
When he is discussing how to alter the lay of the scythe blade, he says "Stop when you feel the metal is actually bending" (17:47) This could be a translation error, but I don't thing it is. He's referring to what is called _plastic_ _deformation_ . At first, you are just bending it like spring, it will just bounce back (elastic deformation). If you keep bending, it permanently bends, aka plastic deformation (think less plastic cup and more Plasticine). He's saying "actually bending" because he isn't a material scientist. If you are mechanically inclined, you already understand what this feels like. If you are not, just keep bending it a little more and more until you get the desired results. Your first few tries will have literally zero effect, but don't worry, soon enough it will. You still have to keep it slow though, it's really easy to overshoot.
He says "remember it is always easier to start with a lay that you believe is too raised and then make it flatter" -- is this the case when using the wedges? it seems harder to use a wedge to make the lay flatter. Any advice for slightly adjusting the lay lower?
No, it's just wedge or vise and pipe wrench. And then you can of course just lower or higher the snath when mowing just to feel how it is to mow with another lay - but that is just for the short testing of course.
Great information about setting up blades. Thank you verry much. Little question though. Is your Nordic snath bassed on the Belgium snath? They appear verry similar to my snaths (I am from Belgium.) Big question also. Can you add english subtitles to the Pitchfork video please? My swedish is a little rusty, as in non existing, and a lot get lost on what you are doing and changing and the reasons why you are changing things.
@@slattergubben6702 Thx. Hope to see it soon. Can I email a picture through your store or rather not? It's essentialy a straight metal tube with a bend 15cm from the knob hole, a wooden pike at the other end. Long T handel for the left hand, orientated a bit lower than horizontal. A round short handel for the right hand mounted close to vertical butt a little forward.
Hello again, Just wanted to let you know that we have added English subtitles to the Pitchfork video. Hope it helps! (There are Swedish subtitles as well, but just change the language if you get the wrong ones! :))
Janne Wester, у меня есть несколько лезвий кос 80 см. Они как резерв. Появилась задумка сделать из одной такой косы лезвие короткое 30 см. для обкашивания кустарников крыжовника и смородины, растущих около забора. Приходится вырывать траву руками или сбивать плоскорезом, что довольно затруднительно. Есть ли опыт такой переделки?
@@slattergubben6702 This comment puzzled me as wel. Screws are actually not meant to hold anything. They are used as clamps. The two pieces clamped together by screw or bolt shall stay together because of the static friction between the two parts. Screws don't hold the tang in place. They push the tang (of the blade) against the snath and it is the friction between those two that prevents movement. The screws themselves stay put because of the friction between the ring and the snath preventing the ring to move. And the screws stay fastened because of the static friction between the outer-thread of the screw pushing against the inner-thread of the ring. Does he peen the blade while it is still on the snath and does this tapping (and miss-tapping!) make his screws loosen themselves as tapping something lessens the static friction. Think of tapping a barometer to see which way the needle is moving.
@@DreadX10 ok, yes welltightened screws will apply more pressure which will increase the friction. Of course. Needless to specify really. I demount the blade when peening but if you apply a method where you lay down for peening its possible to keep the blade. That's possible with the jig or a flat anvil.
I've been looking at YT videos and books for more than a week to help me understand scythe set up, angles, and how those relate to movement....your explanation is the best / most clear / most helpful (by far).
Great instruction have watched all your videos and my mowing is much better. The videos on ground pressure and the finer points of honing helped me a lot. Thank you Dave
Glad to hear!
We have just purchased a new snath and blade for mowing our meadow. Your video is one of the best setup videos I have found. Thank you for you content! It is a blessing.
for many months I was looking for a video with explanations about this tool. Your video is fantastic. You are a great professional. Thanks a lot. Gratitude!!!!!!
Você é um dos seres humanos que mais admiro na atualidade, obrigado Fernando ♥
Great video and walkthrough, wish I had this when I purchased mine a few years ago. You explain things very clearly, thank you!
What you are doing is fantastic. Thanks a lot for giving the world free education on how to scythe. This will be helpful for our future
Thanks! I do my best
Hello I'm from INDIA 🇮🇳 How can I order your scythe please reply@@slattergubben6702
Super informative, inspirational and educational video.
Hälsningar från Östersund.
Good stuff, thanks! Didn’t get this from the kurs but otoh let’s face it doubt I could have taken it all in then.
Jan as always in your top videos is talking the experience! Sharing your knoledge you make a great work for us bad mowers. And i'm really really honored to watch your videos. Stefano
Thanks! Does the subtitles work fine?
@@slattergubben6702 yes they do
Hello I'm from INDIA 🇮🇳 How can I order your scythe please reply
Excellent explanation! Thank you
Glad to hear it was helpful!
Yes bra grej att göra
Material noga utvalt
Thank you very much for this awesome video series, very much appreciated here in Switzerland, where using the scythe never got forgotten !
Around 17:17 : there is no risk for the tang to break ? Wouldn't it be safer to heat it before trying to bend it ?
Thanks! There is a risk but it is hardly visible ..I never broke one or made a crack when setting the lay like this. The risk is if the hardening process has gone wrong during manufacturing.
Spinning the hex key with a single finger is very satisfying and fun. Once you learn your mechanical inclinations (idk what else to call it) try to do it, it's also very fast and convenient as it's almost as fast as a drill but far less expensive ;)
Unfortunately, this technique only works on high quality new and/or well maintained hardware. But it's also a quality test, even small imperfections will cause it to hang up and truly bent or misshapen hardware won't let you do this at all.
Thank you so much for this great video 👍
Glad to hear! What did you appreciate most?
Mycket intressant!
Helt topp!
Jag har precis börjat slå med en lie jag köpte nyligen, svårt men kul! Fråga: räcker det att slipa med en slipsten?
Väldigt intressant! Tack för att du delar! Kan man beställa en bra lie av dig?
Vi säljer de allra bästa, inklusive ett par unika produkter som knackjigg med hättor som är bra slipade och nordic- orvet.
www.slattergubben.se
@@slattergubben6702 Tack för informationen!!!
Loving your videos. Just what I need. New Vaux Austrian scythe sharpening too blunt with canoe stone resting on the back. Don't know what to do.
Thanks, find my honing video and peeningvideo and you might get answers?
New blade. Time to peen. Thanks SO much!
When he is discussing how to alter the lay of the scythe blade, he says "Stop when you feel the metal is actually bending" (17:47) This could be a translation error, but I don't thing it is. He's referring to what is called _plastic_ _deformation_ . At first, you are just bending it like spring, it will just bounce back (elastic deformation). If you keep bending, it permanently bends, aka plastic deformation (think less plastic cup and more Plasticine). He's saying "actually bending" because he isn't a material scientist.
If you are mechanically inclined, you already understand what this feels like. If you are not, just keep bending it a little more and more until you get the desired results. Your first few tries will have literally zero effect, but don't worry, soon enough it will. You still have to keep it slow though, it's really easy to overshoot.
Thanks for clarifying, agree in all you say!
He says "remember it is always easier to start with a lay that you believe is too raised and then make it flatter" -- is this the case when using the wedges? it seems harder to use a wedge to make the lay flatter. Any advice for slightly adjusting the lay lower?
No, it's just wedge or vise and pipe wrench.
And then you can of course just lower or higher the snath when mowing just to feel how it is to mow with another lay - but that is just for the short testing of course.
Nicke Video and Nico boots. Where Go buy them?
Thanks, yes I love my Finnish feelmax bootsstore.feelmax.com/kuuva-5-brown-2nd-grade
Dette prøvde min far å lære meg for 50 år siden.
Det var ikke så vel lykket.😊
Det är aldrig för sent! Var videon till hjälp eller har du något du undrar över?
Great information about setting up blades. Thank you verry much. Little question though. Is your Nordic snath bassed on the Belgium snath? They appear verry similar to my snaths (I am from Belgium.) Big question also. Can you add english subtitles to the Pitchfork video please? My swedish is a little rusty, as in non existing, and a lot get lost on what you are doing and changing and the reasons why you are changing things.
Thanks, never seen Belgium snath. Yes subtitles is slowly coming on more videos!
@@slattergubben6702 Thx. Hope to see it soon. Can I email a picture through your store or rather not? It's essentialy a straight metal tube with a bend 15cm from the knob hole, a wooden pike at the other end. Long T handel for the left hand, orientated a bit lower than horizontal. A round short handel for the right hand mounted close to vertical butt a little forward.
@@leviathanmdk yes, info@slattergubben.se
Hello again, Just wanted to let you know that we have added English subtitles to the Pitchfork video. Hope it helps! (There are Swedish subtitles as well, but just change the language if you get the wrong ones! :))
Can you do another video like this one in English pls
There is English subtitles on this one!
🔥👏👏👏👏👏🤝🏆🥇
Thank you :)
Interesting modding. Хотя как отбивает не показал.
This video was about set up. You are welcome to watch my other videos on scything technique!
🎉🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤
I had a feeling that you might be a bit of a woodworker in addition to professional mower😂
Not professional but I do like it very much!
jaman
Janne Wester, у меня есть несколько лезвий кос 80 см. Они как резерв. Появилась задумка сделать из одной такой косы лезвие короткое 30 см. для обкашивания кустарников крыжовника и смородины, растущих около забора. Приходится вырывать траву руками или сбивать плоскорезом, что довольно затруднительно. Есть ли опыт такой переделки?
Lo
Screws will not hold it.
Continue constructing! Handles, blade sizes, 55to80,according....
What do you mean with the screws? The equipment we sell and demonstrate in the video we have used for professionally mowing for many years.
@@slattergubben6702 This comment puzzled me as wel. Screws are actually not meant to hold anything. They are used as clamps. The two pieces clamped together by screw or bolt shall stay together because of the static friction between the two parts.
Screws don't hold the tang in place. They push the tang (of the blade) against the snath and it is the friction between those two that prevents movement. The screws themselves stay put because of the friction between the ring and the snath preventing the ring to move. And the screws stay fastened because of the static friction between the outer-thread of the screw pushing against the inner-thread of the ring.
Does he peen the blade while it is still on the snath and does this tapping (and miss-tapping!) make his screws loosen themselves as tapping something lessens the static friction. Think of tapping a barometer to see which way the needle is moving.
@@DreadX10 ok, yes welltightened screws will apply more pressure which will increase the friction. Of course. Needless to specify really. I demount the blade when peening but if you apply a method where you lay down for peening its possible to keep the blade. That's possible with the jig or a flat anvil.
👍👍👍👍👍