How To Install a SharkBite Service Slip Tee
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- Опубликовано: 28 окт 2011
- In this SharkBite training video, Craig demonstrates how to easily add a new line to a copper or CPVC pipe using a SharkBite service slip tee. This technique allows you to quickly connect appliances such as dishwashers, ice makers, or humidifiers. Craig provides step-by-step instructions for cutting the pipe, deburring the end, and sliding on the slip tee. He also shows how to connect a SharkBite supply stop to the new line for easy appliance installation.
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Thank you sharkbite for this slip t-joint...Saved me from having to call a plumber to replace a faulty t-joint connecting three copper pipes with no room to move. Super easy installation. Thanks.
The service slip tee is awesome. It helped me easily connect a supply line to my refrigerator ice maker in an existing line. What I like best is that I was able to use a sharkbite angle stop so I have a reliable quarter-turn shutoff valve in case I need to service the fridge. Sweet.
Thanks so much for sharing this great, informative video. Awesome device when you need some wiggle room in the plumbing arena!!!
Man this was so hard to put on an old pipe that was buried underground. I hit a 1/2 water line while grounding electrical and tried using a sharkbite to repair it. The slip side went in with a little help from pliers and a hammer but to get it back over the other side... not so much. The plastic piece didn't help at all. I didn't clean the pipe though, make sure you do!
Connected to an RO system. Use a 3/8” to 1/4” John guest coupler to transition from 1/4” pex to 1/4” poly.
Epic!
No leak check?
Great
Which SharkBite supply stop is used in this video? I cannot locate it on the SharkBite website.
Rick Wiener It's our 1/2" X 1/4" (3/8" OD) ANGLE STOP, Part #24733LF. We have it listed with our compression angle stops, but you can find more info here: www.sharkbite.com/product/angle-stops/. Thanks for watching!
Do you have any 1/2 X 1/2 angle stop maybe?
How would you handle a 3/4" pipe? I only see a 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/2 option. How about a 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 slip tee
Hi Derek, we don't actually have a 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 slip tee. However, If I am understanding what you need correctly, you could use:
Our part number U3486LF is a 3/4 x 3/4 x 3/4 Slip Tee w/ Female NPT center. You could then connect our U116LF (3/4" Male NPT x 1/2 push-to-connect).
It would require 2 fittings, but you would be able to reduce your 3/4" line to 1/2" line out of the middle. If you have any additional questions, please feel free to contact us at 1-877-700-4242 for customer service or technical support.
Derek Lauro I am holding a 3/4.3/4.1/2 Tee in my hand purchased yesterday at Ace Hardware.
Teddy yes but I think he needs a slip tee
Exactly Dwayne. I was replacing an old saddle valve on a 3/4" line that fed a furnace humidifier appliance. Couldn't find what I needed from SharkBite or the copycats so I went with a 3/4 x 3/4 x 3/4 threaded slip tee. Threaded on a 3/4 to 1/2 SharkBite reducer and fed in a quarter turn valve. Works great, but bigger and more parts than I wanted.
Great
Nothing the master plumber *hates* more than _SharkBite._
Rippig people off is finally over!
Plumbers be like stop using sharkbite and hire us, its cutting into our profits. Lol. I heard a lot of bad things about sharkbite over the years but I think a lot of it is due to plumbers being angry that home owners dont have to hire plumbers to do a simple job. Now I get that if you dont properly prep your work sharkbites can leak, but you can say that with any plumbing job that's not properly done correctly. when used correctly though they can last a long time. How do I know? My sharkbite fitting is 13 years old and still leak free. Sooo...
So in order to add a simple 1/4" water line to my refrigerator is to add this slip and ANOTHER separate quarter turn? Why do you not make the sharkBite 24983A Service Tee Stop Valve with a slip application?? Since I am unable to move my pipes sharkbite is useless, looks like I will be learning to sweat weld!
How much did you spend on the copper tee, angle stop, pipe (to connect the tee to the angle stop), torch, flux, solder, and sandpaper/emery cloth? How did the installation go?
Looks so simple, but believe me it is not. The 'slip' function does not work on older pipe. It will get stuck half way on, it won't go on and won't come off. You will have to cut it off.
Greetings Kay. Sorry to hear about the installation issue. For SharkBite to perform at its best, it needs the proper environment. For success in repairs always clean the pipe from debris, such as old solder or burrs. Give our technical support team a call (1-877-700-4242) and they will be happy to walk you through a proper installation.
Dependent on person performing task
What do you do when the slip coupler won't move back toward the other pipe? You make it look so easy, but now I have a cut pipe with a slip coupler that won't slide back toward the other pipe.The pipe is vertical. Trying to slide it back up to meet the other pipe I keep pushing the orange slide tool to move it, but it won't budge. Not as easy as it looks in your videos!
I deburrred, cleaned the copper pipe. Did everything you say to do.
The first vertical pipe I did was really tough to slide it back up, but eventually it slide back to the other pipe. Not easily.
What is the secret to get the thing to depress and let it slide back? I had to put a lot of pressure on the first one to get it to slide back.
This pipe is higher, so I can't pull it up from below. I have to push it up. And it is not budging. Seems like it should not be so hard to enact the thing that allows it to slide back up to the connecting pipe.
I went cuckoo cuckoo at my house, installing Sharkbite slip ball valves on all my down stairs pipes going up to the up stairs plumbing. I agree, pulling some of those slip fittings back was a big PITA. Twisting the fitting back and forth while depressing the release tool seems to do the trick. I'm going to also check if depressing the removal tool with some channel locks gives more leverage.
Any old existing copper pipes in all of our homes that was soldered are way too big to fit for Sharkbite. Why they don't mention this first hand? I have no idea. You ask this simple question "Can a regular copper pipe be use with Sharkbite? They'll say "SharkBite brass push-to-connect fittings are compatible with PEX, copper, CPVC and HDPE pipe. Why don't they say it's not gonna fit because they are too big. A regular 3/4 inch copper pipe measures from .96 to 1.05 od and for Sharkbite is 0.875 or 7/8 inch. Go figure.
@azkal2ko I eventually got them to move, but I had to use their $10 tool and a lot of strength to do it. 4 different ones. It's all fixed now. Saved me money, but they should be honest it is not easy to put these things on.
Here are the CORRECT instructions how to do this DIY procedure.
Example. Let's say you have a copper or Pex pipe.
Close the MAIN water supply valve.
1. Now cut this pipe at a given location on this pipe (i.e. where you want to place the shark bite) and let the water drain in some bucket.
2. The next Very important thing to do is, NOT to "mark your pipe with a pen" about the depth of pipe that need or should insert inside the pipe (after you post the pipe in shark bit end), ...BUT.... TO actually find out, how much pipe you should cut "IN BOTH DIRECTIONS" from the cut you already made. So, for this, look step 3.
3. Now you, look at your shark bite and place the shall bite's center point, at the first cut you made on the pipe. Now mark, "both edges/ends of shark bite" sitting/aligning on the pipe. Let's call it, left mark and right mark on the pipe. Between these 2 marks you just did, there will be the first CUT you made on the pipe.
4. Now, you use the shark bite depth tool (orange color which has all the sizes 0.5" to 1.5") and insert left end of the pipe to the left side of the shark bite and see how deep it is. Mark this on the left pipe (after first cut) i.e. now it will be marked INSIDE between the LEFT MARK you did in step 3. Let's call it INNER-LEFT-DEPTH mark (i.e mark between the LEFT MARK from step 3 and the cut on the pipe). Do the same procedure, on the right side of the pipe, using right side of the pipe, by inserting it into the right opening of the Shark bite. After inserting that, you will now get INNER-RIGHT-DEPTH-MARK i.e. a mark between the cut of the pipe and the RIGHT MARK you got from step 3.
5. Now, USING a Scale/measurement tape, find what's the depth/measurement of "INNER- LEFT-DEPTH -to-> the cut" ... note down this number/value as LEFT VALUE. ... Let's assume this left value was 1 inch.
Do the same procedure by measuring, "cut -to- INNER-RIGHT-DEPTH mark". Note this value as RIGHT value. Lets assume this right value was also 1 inch.
6. Now wipe the INNER left and INNER right marks using a wet cloth or something.
7. Go to LEFT mark (that you made in step 3) and measure "left value" from that left mark and mark it. This "new-inner-left-depth" mark is now measured from the LEFT MARK (i.e. not from the cut/center of the pipe).
Do the same procedure, i.e. mark "new-inner-right-depth" mark measuring from the RIGHT mark (you did in step 3).
8. Now, use the cutter, and cut the pipe AT exactly on the "new-inner-left-depth" mark and cut the pipe AT exactly on the "new-inner-right-depth" mark. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING, I THINK NO OTHER VIDEO EXPLAINED AND it really trumps people while putting a shark bite on any plumbing pipe.
9. Using that orange tool that Shark bite company sells for finding depth of shark bite ends (i.e. how much pipe you should insert), it also has a smoothner/cutter in it, i.e. if you insert the end of pipes in that tool and rotate clockwise as listed on the tool, then it will SMOOTHEN the edges of pipe, for the new-left/right-depth end points of the pipe. Basically, what you have to do is, smoothen the edge of the pipe end points which will go inside Shark bite openings and touching the RUBBER washer/seal.
10. Now, ensure if your shark bite has any DRAIN value (that you open and let water fall down especially during winter time for sprinkler water clearing etc) you place the shark bite acc. so the drain value is always down facing. Actually shark bite can rotate 180° on the pipe after fitting it ( so that should not be a problem ). ALSO, check there is no dirt or debri inside the shark bite, after doing all this nano engineering work today first time by you.
Well by now you just put the left pipe on left shark bite opening and right side of the pipe, into the right side of the shark bite opening. While inserting, the pipe will go exactly upto the left and right mark, you did in step 3.
IMPORTANT: the pipes should be straight if possible like a straight line after you insert both ends in shark bite. Avoid getting any angle more than 5° i.e. after installation, the pipe with shark bite should look like 1 straight pipe, not bending unnecessarily like a bow. Basically there should NOT be any hard tension between shark bite and pipe (that you inserted inside shark bite) giving it any reason to leak water due to a bad angle and high water pressure can leak water from such bad angle.
NOW have a bucket ready next to you, open the main water valve slowly, turn on water and see, if the shark bite installation was successful. Is it leaking any water from the end of the shark bite or not.
If not, you just saved both TIME AND $$$$ And learned something new today.
Dang, that was simple. Why would anyone want to solder when it is that simple to connect?
There's an obvious reason's some plumbers hate SharkBite. Anything that makes a job easier for do it yourselfers means less business for them.
These fittings are horrible. Don't believe this video regarding how effortless it is to use the removal tool. It's awful/virtually useless. Had to use a mallet to tap it so the damn thing would move, which it did but it fell and dented. A waste and a headache. As a note, I followed all installation instructions. Should have just used solder.