How To Level, Crown, And Dress Guitar Frets. The Oak Guitar Build Part 9.
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- In this episode, I'll be leveling, crowning, and dressing the frets on my Oak kitchen table top guitar build.
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Finally someone shows close-ups when fret-end dressing! Thanks Chris
It is the little things that kill they say... I am no pro, but I have leveled and dressed frets. But you did something in this video that was so simple and I can't believe I never thought of that made me feel dumb and super grateful - vacuuming the fret dust! I always have trouble with that mess and I never thought to vacuum it... always used damp cloths and just made a total mess... so, I wanted to say thanks... always excellent content and in this case a simple thing revolutionized things for me! Awesome.
Wanted to Thank you for this video. I recently took an interest in doing all of my own guitar work and decided to attempt re-fretting an old Stratocaster.
Your video was invaluable for this process. The end result turned out fantastic!
Really enjoy your videos.
I see a Highline Guitars video, I hit thumbs up! Usually before even watching...
Top notch video. You had crowning closeups before, but this one packs it all together.
very useful information, just finish refret work, going for level, crown and dress, thanks for share...
I've been gone from you channel for a while so this is the first time I heard about EGuitarPlans. It's FANTASTIC! Thanks so much for making that site!
Hi Chris. I started looking through your vidz yesterday, and it's nice to find a logical person, that explains theory, and detailed information. I like all of your clips that I have watched. Thanks much.
Cool, thanks!
Comment boost, great stuff has always. Greetings from Brazil
BTW all the video looks great, especially the close-ups.
Thank you: the dressing part has really helped my technique
Glad it was helpful!
Wow ur totally amazing what u do!!
Youre a great communicator. A rare skill
Subscribed!
This is very well made video, with close-up angles, technical comentary, considerations, variations. Most other channels are just showing-off.
Thanks for putting in the work , you have your own take on it, like hearing and seeing how others git er done
I appreciate that!
Thanks for this video. Very thorough explanation. I've wanted to do this on my guitars, and I had a few questions that you answered here.
Useful thanks.
Why would anyone dislike this video. Man, the info here is spot on.
Haters gonna hate!
@@HighlineGuitars I guess… thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. As a guitar maker myself, I appreciate what you’re doing
Brilliant video. You explain and show exactly what we need to know. I will be doing this to my GLP in the next few days and after watching your video I feel pretty confident I can do it.
Thanks for sharing your skills. You also have a new follower. 🎸👌👍
yes, compound video would be great
What a great video. Thanks Chris.
Bravo!!!! What a great and understandable video. I learned quite a bit.
Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the close-ups! Great video !
Thanks for watching!
Thank you, this video was exactly what I wanted to see. Your explanation and technical commentary were second to none. Good job, now subscribing to your channel.
I’m about to have to do this on my tele deluxe kit
Great video thank you. Added to watch later. Appreciate the knowledge
Your videos have been so helpful. I hope you do The video you mentioned on leveling compound radius Frets. I've searched the Internet and there is not much helpful information.
Great detail, great explanation!
BTW, a good leveling beam is a scrap length of stone backsplash. I have a piece of granite 1 x 4 x 12” . The top is polished flat and its weight lets it do the work. Most shops that make counter tops will have scrap you can pick through. Also, if it gets dinged, stone chips instead of denting, so no raised spots are created.
Great tip!
@@HighlineGuitars
Of course, it only works for flat fretboards…
@@trackie1957 Wrong. This guitar has a 12” radius.
@@HighlineGuitars
I was saying that my flat stone would only work on a flat board. You mentioned the radius of your neck in the video.
Those granite scraps are handy for a lot of other things, too. Much stiffer than a plate of glass of you use it to sharpen tools with sandpaper, or to flatten wood parts. They are handy when you need a weight to hold something down…
@@trackie1957 oh, I see. Replies pop up on my phone and I don’t always know what they are in reference to.
Likewise , I tried some fancy diamond files etc and went back to the three corner files, takes a little long but always does a better job.
You are thr best teacher on the field.
I wonder what tool do you use and how you level compound radius fingerboards. As you said in this video its a different story. I was thinking about using a 500mm reference plate with sandpaper attached to the narrow 9mm side moving it from low to high E.
Whenever I work on a fretboard, I use the same tools that Gibson uses. A cheese grater.
This is truly amazing. Whats the best way we can identify the material of the frets?
Nickel-silver frets wear out faster. That’s the only way to tell. If you know who made or refretted the guitar, ask them. There is no magical RUclips trick that will tell you.
I thought 'fall away" was also because bending strings actually means the radius of the neck can make a very slight hump in the way of the string ringing freely, from its most bent point, back up to its saddle , in the upper frets. this can be an issue because of the string ringing more freely, as you mentioned , in the upper areas of the board, . . this is also why the compound radius is popular now , to combat that. . . . . but I'm probably wrong .
I don't think you're wrong. It's a different possibility, one which should be considered.
Great video and demonstration of how to level frets. If I level the frets with a straight beam should I then use a radius block? I read too many different opinions on whether or not you should use a radius block to level frets or not even use a radius block after leveling with a straight beam. I also noticed you did not have the guitar under tension, but I always read that it is best for the neck to be under tension.
I am only asking because you seem very knowledgeable and I would like to know your opinion. I am not asking in a critical or judgmental way.
Keep in mind that my advice is for new builds and not for older guitars. You can use either a straight beam or a radius block to level your frets. You don't have to use both. Most luthiers use a straight bean alone since they are much cheaper to buy than a radius block.
You mention using a notched straight edge to check and adjust the neck for straightness before fret leveling. Have you run into situations where the neck is not perfectly straight even after adjusting the truss rod. If so, how common is this and how do you handle? Thank you very much!
@@mikemaj8467 I don’t work on existing guitars. I make them from scratch. Therefore, I have never run into that situation. If I did, I’d make a new neck.
Excellent work, thank you. Subtitle in spanish please
I'm building a guitar with a 27.5" baritone neck. Should I just make my own with a straight aluminum bar I have? Or does the notch depth and spacing need to be spot-on?
*EDIT 4:20 Brother Highline got you covered if you don't have a notched straight edge.
Question for the masters out there: Why don't you want to adjust the truss rod to make the top of the frets as level as possible, instead of leveling the fret board? You're working to level the frets anyway, it seems like you could possibly remove less fret material doing that? Just wondering...
Because the frets aren't level yet and you can't force them to be level by adjusting the truss rod. The goal is to level the frets relative to a level fretboard. Later on, when the neck is under string tension and subject to bow, you can straighten the neck with the truss rod, which will ensure the fretboard (and the leveled frets) and perfectly level.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks, that makes sense! Love your channel!
It's amazing how the quality of both the guitars and the videos keep improving. Great job mate. I'm curious about something: As a guitar player, even though I was born in the 90s and didn't experience any of the guitar craziness of the 80s, I'm a huge fan of the old super strats in flashy colors, like the floyd rose era kramers (baretta, striker), charvels(model 2, etc), jacksons, ESPs with the hockey stick headstock, you know what I'm talking about. This kind of guitar seems to be vanishing for good from the market, sometimes you get a reissue here or there (and usually they sell out before you can even try to get one). From your market experience, do you think there are still enough buyers out there to keep in business a company or a high-skill builder such as yourself that would focus on this kind of product instead of the more trendy fancy wood, transparent finish, extended range/fan fret/non-locking guitars?
A lot depends on how many guitars you want to make and sell. If you want to go into mass production, you may find it hard to move them. If you plan on building them in limited numbers or as custom builds, there is definitely a market that's drive by buyers who want specific options they can't find from the big factories. It all comes down to getting the word out about what you do.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks for the reply. I'm not actually willing to build them, I'd like to see them more often for sale haha! Maybe when I move to a bigger place I'll try to build one for myself.
👍
Just for grins, I searched “how to breathe”. Don’t bother. That territory has been covered!
Maybe so, but not they way I have in mind! 😉
Thank you for the great video, I have one question: how can I stick the sandpaper on the iron bar? I'm worried to use glue because an uneven glue thinkness between the rod and the sandpaper could change the straightess of the bar ( sorry for my bad english! ) I Hope you'll understand, thank you !
Use double sided tape for this.
Great video. I have a Gretsch hollowbody and I love playing it but feel the frets are too tall for comfort. I would like to have a luthier lower and crown the frets for more comfortable playing. Is this video the steps and description of the process? Is this a common job for a good luthier? Thanks again.
A skilled luthier can do this for you.
I'm thinking on swop my strat neck (9.5") to a 12" radius one. Or maybe putting new frets with 12" radius. Will it works?
You can change to a different radius, but it’s the radius of the fretboard that matters. Installing fret wire with a 12” radius onto a fretboard with a 9.5” radius obviously won’t work. You need to either replace the neck with one that has a 12” radius fretboard, or you could remove the 9.5” radius fretboard and replace it with a new 12” radius fretboard, or pull the frets off the old fretboard and sand the radius to 12.”
Is it all the same process with a compound radius fretboard?
It's been a while since I've seen your setup table, and it looks like you've updated it. Would you mind doing a video on how you built your table?
Also, where did you source your steel leveling beam?
I have used a Nicholson file for several years on your earlier video recommendation. Have you tried a Stew-Mac Z-file?
I apologize for all the questions- your techniques and education are so effective that I want to soak up as much as I can
Here's the video on my table: ruclips.net/video/00abnN2P-tQ/видео.html
A link to the beam is in the description for this video.
I have not tried the Stewmac Z-file. Too pricey.
@@HighlineGuitars thank you! I will be building one of these tables for myself. I have yet to pony up the dough for a z-file because my safe-edged Nicholson has worked extremely well so far. Yeah, stole that idea and technique from you too. In my opinion your operation is the most practical I have seen for the hobbyist-to-small-production builders. You are more of a resource than you know, and for that I thank you.
Excellent videos! You don't seem to build a lot of compound fretboards yourself? Any reason why? Not worth the effort?
Not worth the effort.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks, just finished my first tele with compound radius, a lot of work to do!
Maybe one more question that's a bit off topic if you don't mind. I've seen you mention on your other video's that you first radius your fretboard and then cut the fret slots? Do you cut the slots by hand then following the radius? I've got one of those stewmac fret slotting saw jigs, which accepts a straight unradiused fretboard. Problem is, after cutting the slots, trimming, gluing and radiusing it in on the neck, my slots weren't deep enough on the edges and I had to deepen them by hand, sort of discarding the accuracy of that fret slotting jig. Any suggestions for this conundrum? I would really appreciate it! Cheers!
@@nicolasmasset I cut my slots with a CNC machine. However, I don’t bother matching the radius of the fretboard because it’s not worth the effort.
I am a bit confused. You first showed a flat metal device with sand paper to level frets but then used a curved one that you made. Is it critical to have a curve in the fret and how do you do this if you use the flat leveling bar. Thanks
Not critical, just faster.
@@HighlineGuitars so its ok to leave the frets flat?
@@csul5961 huh?
Thanks for you vids! Will you do falloff if the customer requests it?
Yes I will
Hi. About how long does it take for u to complete fret installation (including crowning and polishing)? And how much longer do u find it takes for stainless?
Don’t know. Never timed it. Maybe 3 hours. Same with stainless steel.
@@HighlineGuitars Thank you. Appreciate your videos 🙏🏽
When are we collabbing? Come on man let's do it!
Sorry man, but I'm a lone wolf.
Did you ever make the fret leveling tool?
Yup. ruclips.net/video/tqXckJ8dkTY/видео.htmlsi=A-9VqcSaJv61yD0E
how much would it cost to get a stainless steel refret on an ec1000 esp?
Hello, would it be a good idea to get the neck straight, then let it sit overnight and check it again?
Allowing periods of rest during the construction process is always a good idea. I incorporate rest periods after making the neck, after the neck is straightened, and after the guitar is completely finished. Good point!
@@HighlineGuitars ok cool, yeah I heard somewhere that was a good idea, but wasn't sure, so thanks for clarifying :)
Also, thanks for all the informative and awesome videos! They have been very helpful 😁 🎸
How do you use the radius board with a Les Paul that has fret nibs? I haven’t seen a video on fret dressing/leveling with a guitar with fret nibs like a Les Paul has.
I'm thinking of doing a video titled "Fret Nibs Are Stupid."
@@HighlineGuitars I’m looking forward to that haha. Because I have two guitars with fret nibs and wondered how the process differs from all the videos I see on RUclips. I haven’t been able to find a video on leveling/crowning for guitars with fret nibs.
@@lastjedii Sorry, I was being sarcastic. I will never make a guitar with fret nibs.
@@HighlineGuitars I kinda figured with your reply but I was hoping you would make a video for it. I’m sure I’m not the only one with a Les Paul that needs some fret work.
Thanks
@@lastjedii My channel is about building guitars from scratch. I don't cover repair work on other brands. Maybe one of these videos might help: ruclips.net/user/results?search_query=les+paul+fret+nibs
I understand why the frets have to have curvature at the top of the neck.. but why can't a guitar neck be flat from the middle to the end? wouldn't having a curve at the bottom half of the neck be counterintuitive?
It can. It's called a compound radius.
Do you use the same radius for sanding the fretboard and frets? But the fingerboard and frets have different radii, the radius of the frets is slightly larger than the radius of the fingerboard.
They do before you level the frets. However, if you use the same radius block to level the frets as you did to sand the fretboards radius, guess what? They'll have the same radius. Sorry if I blew your mind.
@@HighlineGuitars I realized my mistake. I did not take into account that when sanding the frets, the center of the circle shifts, so the radius remains the same as on the fretboard. I wonder why, in this case, many luthiers consider it wrong to sand the frets with a radius block.
@@user-du9gv8qy7i Really? Who?
@@HighlineGuitars For example, William Gelvin mentioned this in one of his old videos.
@@user-du9gv8qy7i Oh no. You've got to be kidding. He does ads in the USA for Navage! Google it. Also: ruclips.net/video/MToYOdg2K2w/видео.html
No polish?