@@MonkeyShred Awesome! I cant wait to see what you came up with. At some point i will have to decide between 26 1 3/8 and the correct 1 1/4 for my raleigh. Not much to choose from.
All I can say is that I am impressed. Seldom see someone willing to put in the work of using filler on an old frame. Absolutely impressed with the results! And your knowledge of parts just amazes me. You will go far, young man!
Oof that needed a lot more work if I’m honest. I spent hours on it but it needed at least another go with the filler primer and maybe the actual filler. Lots of work!
The front hub is all working again now! (All be it a little rough). It was really simple! I’ll put the video together for Wednesday and tackle the rear hub next…
Just bought evaparust cleans up nice. Love the pedals worth fixing the are nice eye candy. The bars you could paint black What color tires big decisions can’t wait😎
It’s expensive stuff but works a treat. I’ve just used it on the front hub too and finished it off with a coat of boiled linseed oil. Ah that reminds me. Pedals. They need stripping and Evaporust too. I’m likely sticking with 26 x 1 1/4” rims so I only have one tyre choice for that… black 🙃
That is a nice restoration. Inspirational. I am working on a bike right now and it’s my first strip and rebuild from scratch. I will be spraying and replacing decals. Can I ask where you got your transfers as they look ideal for my project. Although it is an old Giant and not a BSA.
You're right, those bars are wonderfully shaped. If it were me, I'd do my best to remove the rust, apply a protective clear coat and then wrap. I'm interested to see how your chrome paint turns out, though. Anything but black ;-)
@@MonkeyShred a small oxy acetylene set up would probably be useful in your workshop if you don't have any electric in there. It's not difficult to learn, you get a feel for it.
Looks like that frame took a head on impact - is the downtube buckled inwards too? If so then display bike might be safest option. My Dawn Tourist has a slightly bent non-drive side seat stay (see latest video) and I’m hoping it’s fixable/rideable/not going to to kill me 😰 Those handlebars look great - shape wise. Can picture them painted black with yellow/tan grips (maybe twine and shellac grips, Velocipedium style) to match the frame colours 💛🖤
Definitely seems a possibility. The down tube is very very slightly bent too but not like the top tube. I’m thinking of spraying the bars. I bought some chrome paint to try out but black might be the better option.
Yep all the parts are still original - except the crankset. I swapped that with another BSA because of the teeth on the original. Oh and saddle - I don't have an original.
Just got a 39 gazelle in operating condition doesnt ride too smooth because its probably got dry barings but theres ports on every part front rod brake needs pads the rear still grabs they used a heavy clear coat thats flaking off but its all original down to the existent stock paint and decals in its rusty component glory and before the cable snapped it shifted through all 3 gears in the sturmey archer hub
I've just got a old Raleigh triumph bike , needs a lot of work can't wait to rebuild it just watched your tools video and was great help on what I need , can I ask what grease you use when putting it back together
Can you sandblast frames as old as these? Is there any risk? Are they “delicate”? I have an 70+ year old CCM I want to strip and sandblast before giving it a nice glossy paintjob
I have done and will continue to if needed. The chaps I use to blast the parts are quite delicate with them though as they work on vintage parts quite a lot. The mudguards for this bike were already thin but the blasting, removing the rust, has made them paper thin now so on parts like that... maybe, maybe not.
Fascinating and worth the wait. Agreed, the bent tubing is probably from a head on, but that's British steel. Nothing like it. Got an old Raleigh with a nasty dent in the cross tube and the frame needed straightening. Rides fine now and perfectly safe. (RJ has videos on frame straightening.) You'll have to judge. Am more concerned about the fork that you didn't show us. Is it compromised? Easy enough to replace. And never use brake cleaner in close quarters, please. Dangerous stuff. Makes you sick.
@@MonkeyShred Funny you should mention the moon; I was waiting for the lunar module to land.-- Fair enough, my mistake. I looked at the fork again at 02:01 - 02:34, but other than the usual pitting didn't see anything shocking. Anyway, you can always substitute an appropriate fork. You're no slave to historical accuracy. You could also install a Nexus hub in back with a generator up front and catapult that beauty into our century.
@@MonkeyShred That's fair but steel'll give you LOTS of warning pre-failure. Also, if a blade goes, the remaining fork blade will have enough strength to get you all the way to the scene of the crash.
Cant wait for BSA part 4! Lovely bike, i am a drum brake fanboy!
Well good news! I’ve finally found tyres!
@@MonkeyShred Awesome! I cant wait to see what you came up with. At some point i will have to decide between 26 1 3/8 and the correct 1 1/4 for my raleigh. Not much to choose from.
An ultrasonic cleaner should be a good option for restore and clean these old parts. Nice work. Nice videos. Keep doing this little things.
It would be useful! Good quality cleaners are expensive though 😩 maybe one day!
@@MonkeyShred Steam cleaner is a good alternative
All I can say is that I am impressed. Seldom see someone willing to put in the work of using filler on an old frame. Absolutely impressed with the results! And your knowledge of parts just amazes me. You will go far, young man!
Oof that needed a lot more work if I’m honest. I spent hours on it but it needed at least another go with the filler primer and maybe the actual filler. Lots of work!
Can't wait to see how you tackle those drum brakes and pedals ! This bike has been well worth the wait... Mark 😊
Front drum brake was easy! Video is out now too!
The parts look awesome. I finally made a stem like that one myself.
It's a beautiful stem isn't it?! It's described as a "Swan Neck" in the catalogue.
Great work, I look forward to seeing the rest.
I'm off to the shed now, I may be some time...
🚴👍
Hope the shed time was productive!
Meanwhile on most bicycle forums: "Is my 2 week old carbon frame toast because of this scratch....?"
Steel is real, and lives happily ever after.
I own steel, aluminium, magnesium and carbon. Each have their merits... except magnesium.
looking forward to seeing the hub brake assembly :-)
The front hub is all working again now! (All be it a little rough). It was really simple! I’ll put the video together for Wednesday and tackle the rear hub next…
Just bought evaparust cleans up nice. Love the pedals worth fixing the are nice eye candy. The bars you could paint black What color tires big decisions can’t wait😎
It’s expensive stuff but works a treat. I’ve just used it on the front hub too and finished it off with a coat of boiled linseed oil.
Ah that reminds me. Pedals. They need stripping and Evaporust too.
I’m likely sticking with 26 x 1 1/4” rims so I only have one tyre choice for that… black 🙃
That is a nice restoration. Inspirational. I am working on a bike right now and it’s my first strip and rebuild from scratch. I will be spraying and replacing decals. Can I ask where you got your transfers as they look ideal for my project. Although it is an old Giant and not a BSA.
You're right, those bars are wonderfully shaped. If it were me, I'd do my best to remove the rust, apply a protective clear coat and then wrap. I'm interested to see how your chrome paint turns out, though. Anything but black ;-)
I could give that a go. I'll have to remove all the flaking chrome and see how they look.
Those pedals are definitely worth saving. Maybe a bit of brazing?
I guess I could try and teach myself that!
@@MonkeyShred a small oxy acetylene set up would probably be useful in your workshop if you don't have any electric in there. It's not difficult to learn, you get a feel for it.
Looks like that frame took a head on impact - is the downtube buckled inwards too? If so then display bike might be safest option.
My Dawn Tourist has a slightly bent non-drive side seat stay (see latest video) and I’m hoping it’s fixable/rideable/not going to to kill me 😰
Those handlebars look great - shape wise. Can picture them painted black with yellow/tan grips (maybe twine and shellac grips, Velocipedium style) to match the frame colours 💛🖤
Maybe leather bar tape would be an option...1935 would be close to the change to bar tape. Would hide a host of problems.
Definitely seems a possibility. The down tube is very very slightly bent too but not like the top tube.
I’m thinking of spraying the bars. I bought some chrome paint to try out but black might be the better option.
did you end up using all the original parts ??? I know you have to swap the regular stuff like tires, tubes and that but other then that
Yep all the parts are still original - except the crankset. I swapped that with another BSA because of the teeth on the original. Oh and saddle - I don't have an original.
Just got a 39 gazelle in operating condition doesnt ride too smooth because its probably got dry barings but theres ports on every part front rod brake needs pads the rear still grabs they used a heavy clear coat thats flaking off but its all original down to the existent stock paint and decals in its rusty component glory and before the cable snapped it shifted through all 3 gears in the sturmey archer hub
Nice! Hope it works well for you.
I've just got a old Raleigh triumph bike , needs a lot of work can't wait to rebuild it just watched your tools video and was great help on what I need , can I ask what grease you use when putting it back together
Awesome! Have fun with it! I tend to use Weldtite grease. Either the white stuff in a tub or the red stuff in a tube. I’m not too fussy.
Have u ever rode or restored a major nichols
Can you sandblast frames as old as these? Is there any risk? Are they “delicate”? I have an 70+ year old CCM I want to strip and sandblast before giving it a nice glossy paintjob
I have done and will continue to if needed. The chaps I use to blast the parts are quite delicate with them though as they work on vintage parts quite a lot. The mudguards for this bike were already thin but the blasting, removing the rust, has made them paper thin now so on parts like that... maybe, maybe not.
18:30 well, i can believe that's not Butter.
I dunno…. Close your eyes. Spread it on your toast. See if you can tell the difference.
Hi , sorry for another question when fixing vintage bikes do you need metric and imperial Alan keys
Allen keys, nope, not really. They've always been metric on the bikes I've had. Spanners will switch to imperial the further back you go though.
Fascinating and worth the wait. Agreed, the bent tubing is probably from a head on, but that's British steel. Nothing like it. Got an old Raleigh with a nasty dent in the cross tube and the frame needed straightening. Rides fine now and perfectly safe. (RJ has videos on frame straightening.) You'll have to judge. Am more concerned about the fork that you didn't show us. Is it compromised? Easy enough to replace. And never use brake cleaner in close quarters, please. Dangerous stuff. Makes you sick.
The fork was featured bare in the first few shots! You might have mistaken it for the surface of the moon though.
@@MonkeyShred Funny you should mention the moon; I was waiting for the lunar module to land.-- Fair enough, my mistake. I looked at the fork again at 02:01 - 02:34, but other than the usual pitting didn't see anything shocking. Anyway, you can always substitute an appropriate fork. You're no slave to historical accuracy. You could also install a Nexus hub in back with a generator up front and catapult that beauty into our century.
If it makes you feel better I commuted on a Schwinn Varsity with a far more severe bend in it than that for years without issue.
I don't think the bend is too bad... the rusty fork on the other hand might be something to keep an eye on
@@MonkeyShred That's fair but steel'll give you LOTS of warning pre-failure. Also, if a blade goes, the remaining fork blade will have enough strength to get you all the way to the scene of the crash.
VERY BAD DECISION - painting... original painting was ok.