I tried this a couple years ago n just made some more I use it for my round ball patches n Lee r.e.a.l bullets works really good not using any other lube. Thanks for the video..
I tried this and it works very well. I like how you can vary the thickness by changing the amount of beeswax. I found a cedar essential oil and used it instead of wintergreen so it now has a woodsy smell to it. Great instructional video!
Try 7:1 (olive oil to bees wax) ratio for starters. One important tip.. keep mixing until everything solidifies! You get the micro crystal consistency like authentic bore butter.
very instructional and answered my questions about bore butter...and then some. I needed to know what you pointed out for my 58, 36, 45 and 54 caliber patch-n-balls. Cheers!
I do about the same thing for my minié ball lube but I use lard and beeswax (and fir essential oil)! Works great. For patches, I've gotten lazy and just use mink oil paste.
Theres something about looking up into the greenwood to the sounds of cicadas that just whispers..." summer" ...in your ears. Takes me back to being a boy in 1968. I could put a hammock right there and take a nap!😂
There’s been many times where I’ve done just that! There’s seldom peace in this busy day and age. Seems like it takes effort to almost find it at times.
You could probably duplicate the yellow color of borebutter by adding dyes used for candlemaking. They are oil soluable, come in both liquid and solid form, and are relatively inexpensive. You could even amuse yourself by making your own custom colored bore butter. Thanks for sharing your recipe. Definitely going to give this a try.
When I use the tube of bore butter in winter I mix extra olive oil to it to thin it out so I can use it. In tube during cols weather it won't come out of tube-to thick
Thank you for sharing this! TC Bore Butter is getting hard to find and I was worried about finding a good alternative. Thanks to your video I can now make my own.
An example of a beneficial acid is flux for soldering. When heated it activates the acids and the acids eat any oxidization on the joint and evaporates away, leaving a clean joint. I suppose similar to motor oil is when the oil is heated it collects debris and maintains lubrication. The viscosity of the motor oil allows for debris to sink to the bottom
Kia Ora from NZ. Great explanation of how to do :) Love your appreciation of the nature around you. All the very best Nga mihi Ma te wa (Kind regards and have a great day) 😊
👍 I made some lube up but guessed the ingredients - beeswax , Vaseline and olive oil . Not far from right . Still got some left . Used a washed out food can , heated it up in that and put one of them plastic sealer caps on top . It’s good to make your own lube . I wasn’t in the woods when I did it though , maybe I should have 🤔
Hello there! Nice try BUT Vaseline is a petrolium product and is a definite NO in the world of black powder use. Majormusket got it right. I use mink oil tallow for patches (simple and cheap) and use Ballistol for final cleaning /lubing before storage. For DYI, use the recipe that is presented in this video above :) Greetings from the Great Smoky Mountains.
@@benjaminjarrett9816 thanks , now I know . I’ve started saving the fat from cooking the lamb and using that mixed with beeswax . After I shoot I strip my revolver right down and put the metal bits in hot water with a single drop of dish soap and clean parts as I take them out lightly oiling the springs and lubing the cylinder arbour before assembly .
@@donnance1480 petroleum jelly super refined. I use it no problem. Also i use paraffin wax bees wax and tallow for my cap and ball bullet lube on my Johnson and Dow bullets when i make paper cartridges. Also soak felt wads in same mix for my 50 and the 45 cap and ball. Petroleum jelly doesn't case the tar you are claiming. Ive been shooting muzzleloaders fior 30 years
I used to use mutton fat or beef fat (not from the kidneys) and mix it with dish washing detergent, it worked a tread and it was easy to clean my Kentucky rifle with hot water at the end of the day.
@@cannonballs6122 Kidney fat is the highest quality fat on an animal it is hard and waxy and has many uses including soap and candles. For Bore butter I prefer fat that is softer.
I'm glad I found your channel. I've made a few tubs of this bore butter and the stuff is just amazing.. of course it's easier to appreciate things when you DIY. Not only is it good for black powder guns, but it's good on your skin. Great for dry skin but also good for wounds or burns. I've been rubbing this stuff on everything lol. I'm now wondering if it'll work for deodorant
I tried olive oil the last time out with my 50 cal. Trapper pistol. It was pretty accurate with 40 grains of FFFg and each shot loaded as easily as the one before. Thanks for bringing it up. 👍🏻
Another great video, I bought some beeswax a couple of weeks ago so I'll use some for my own bore butter, thanks again. As for trapping and BP shooting video, yes please.
For lubed felt wads used by my percussion revolver, I use tallow, beeswax, and a little bit of paraffin wax as a stiffener so they're not an oily mess in the summertime.
Thanks! Going to try this very soon. Already have beeswax for bow string making. Going to leave out wintergreen scent for deer hunting. May put wife's perfume in it. She walks by the deer during hunting season and they don't care. 🤣
Looks great! Perhaps I could add a bit of advice though. Even if extra virgin olive oil is used, it’s still not free of acid, so it might be more economical to use a cheap olive oil and neutralize its acidity. That was actually done by clock and watchmakers in the centuries past to create needed lubricants on their own. I’ve read a book from 19th century called “Friction, Lubrication and the Lubricants in Horology” giving instructions how to refine oils from hooves, bones and whale blubber to olive oil. The method to neutralize acids from olive oil as described there is to mix the oil with caustic soda lye (one hundredth part of the weight) and shake it well. After several days (shaking it again periodically), a large quantity of water is to be added and oil poured off from the top. For horological purposes it is also to be purified from other substances using alcohol, but I suppose that’s unnecessary here. The oil should be acid free after the above mentioned neutralization, which should be beneficial for firearms use.
Very fascinating information. Thank you for sharing. In my opinion, with the application of BP firearms, the mild acidity of olive oil is moot compared the the corrosiveness of the black powder we willingly pour down the barrel itself with every use. The most important thing is to know how to clean your weapon and store it properly by keeping all ferrous metal bits coated in a thin, non-buildup type oil between use.
Good video.... You can test consistency as you go by dipping something cold into the mix (tip of your knife will do), and test the consistency of the cooled bit as you go, same technique as jam(jelly) makers use....... Saves a lot of fooling around... Most bullet lubes for 'primitive' use are based on beeswax, and what you soften it with doesn't seeem to matter that much. Olive oil is great of course, but so is petroleum jelly (vaseline)... I have used such lubes exclusively for many years for both BP and smokeless loads up to high intensity .44 Magnum. I make up lube sticks of Beeswax/vaseline lube for my lube-sizer and it works a treat.... a bit more wax for this to make it stiffer for this use... It also is 'sticky' enough to hold bullets in paper cartridges with no other adhesive.
Excellent video! I'd call this field-expedient bore butter, and it will work. Some notes: 1. Preparing salves, especially using natural oils, is best done with a double-boiler method. You can boil water in your bush pot and float a steel cup in the water. The oil, herbs, and wax go into the cup. This prevents acidifying (increasing free acidity) of the salve. 2. Fatty acid content of natural oils and free acidity are two completely different things. Some fatty acids are corrosion inhibitors for the steel or iron. Free acidity is corrosive. 3. Acidity is generally measured by pH with a range of 6 to zero. PH of 7 is neutral. PH of 8 to 14 is alkali (basic). It is regulated by 21 CFR 114.90 4. Two important parameters for oil are smoke point and pH. However pH of oil is difficult to measure and is often specified as % free acidity. The only oil that does not have free acidity is coconut oil with a pH between 7 and 8, slightly alkaline. The smoke point of refined coconut oil is 450 F. Compared to extra virgin olive oil: 0.8% free acid, sp 350 F. Sunflower and canola oil have about ten times less free acidity than olive oil.
@@improvisedsurvival5967 in general, yes. Organizations that use oil-based products specify delivered smoke point and free acidity since single source oils can vary significantly from batch to batch, growing area and season. Manufacturers will use blends with additives to meet specifications, often relying on petroleum sources. Since the video is DIY/craft, IMO use what you have and understand how that impacts your maintenance practice and frequency. One way to do that is to do your own tests and witness plates. One oil I'm trying as a base is grapeseed oil (not canola or rapeseed oil). IMO bore butter is more an art than a science so far.
@@nevisstkitts8264 the acid I never considered as anything. My first thought was coconut is a solid like shortening product and the wax to get her would be like a butter more than a oil liquid like olive oil and the wax. Was thinking something that stays more of a butter in warm temps cus who wants it melting of the gun in their holster in the summer I’m not expecting a protectant from this but a line that’s easy to wipe clean and cheap to make. Food grade oils seem to be the way to go. I’m sure there is millions of options but I’d rather touch food grade oils and wax than touching petroleum products with detergents made for cars. I can see using water to clean then some wd 40 to displace the water then fully dry for cleaning. Then bore butter over ball the felt wads really to me just add more expense and time.
Hey @Majormusket... Well done with the song, nice you recorded for you own vid! Also, what was the ratio Beeswax to Oliv Oil or do you know??? hard to tell in the vid.
It’s in the video bud lol. It’s not an exact science. Get the ingredients and have fun with it. You can always re-heat, melt down and add more wax if needed. You won’t regret it.
OK, I am a newbie here. I just bought my first Thompson 50 Cal rifle. I get the lubrication idea for the bore. How much of that for butter do you actually apply to the patch? Do you completely saturate the patch?
Yep. Don’t overthink it. You want to make sure it’s nice and covered to get seated on your charge properly. After several shots, you have to fight some fouling, so a good lubricant will help.
I tried many different ingredients in the past then one day I had a toilet bowl wax seal that was damaged while on a new build site , and decided to try it for my muzzle loader and problem solved cheap and easy.
@@Majormusket the ingredients are actually the same as what you pay for in the leading wax bore lubes, with a better consistency in warmer temperatures than the others . and with the price being one to three dollars for a basic ring seal you can't go wrong.
Im going to get into black powder rifles. Your video is so awesome. I know how to make bore butter myself now. Thank you so so mutch. I love the idea of it. More economical. Im even going to get into making me own black powder. Again thank you so mutch for your insight. It will help me tremendously.
The beeswax has antimicrobial properties that I believe keep the olive oil stable. I haven’t had any issues this far. I just used the jar from this video last weekend at an all day shoot. No issues.
Terrific video, sir! Two questions: What rifle is that? I like it. Where did you get the bee's wax? I get mine from honey comb, but that is a slow process to get a substantial amount. Thanks very much for the informative video. Michael.
Thanks, Michael! This is my grandpas first gun he made. Every screw and ever component was made by hand. He even bored and rifled the barrel. I bought the wax online. I like the cosmetic grade because of the lack of impurities. I believe you’ll get a more consistent product that way. I’m still using the same batch I’ve made and I’ve been shooting a lot. Quite a few woods walks and shoots. It can also double as an ointment.
Is it thick enough to stick to a maxi ball? Does it clean up like the real stuff? If you didn't care about the smell would it hurt to skip the scented oil? Can you coat the bore with it when you're done? Do you know if paraffin wax would work instead? Sorry for all the questions but you really got me interested in this. Thanks.
It’s thick enough to stick to a maxi, cleans up great and helps with fouling while shooting, you can skip the scented oil no problem, you could coat your bore with it, but I would recommend something like birch wood Casey’s barricade oil. I’ve never messed with paraffin so I couldn’t say, but the bees wax is cheap, historically accurate and biodegradable.
@@Majormusket thanks. I've been away from muzzleloaders for years but I'm starting to get back to them now. This looks like a fun DIY project to make something I'll need anyway.
Same problem I have here in the Southwest Mojave Desert area. Really HOT in the summer.. I’m gonna try this method using more beeswax in the warmer months, then thin it a bit with olive oil when the weather cools down. Thinking I won’t waste anything this way. I can always add more beeswax to any leftovers when it warms up again.
The acidity is so low that it’s not even worth a headache. All oils have acids in them. Black powder in and of itself is extremely corrosive, and we pour it down the barrel and blow it up lol the olive oil is fine.
Salve isn’t universally bees wax and olive oil. Salve basically refers to any topical remedy that has that spreadable but stable consistency. A lot of salves were made from petroleum jelly, so while you could make a salve from bees wax and olive oil, your statement that all salves are olive oil and beeswax is absolutely false. Many salves are made of toxic things that are fine on the skin but not in the mouth and certainly not in your stomach.
I never said all salves were made from beeswax and olive oil. I was simply referencing the way that I was familiar in making one. This is also not a how-to for salve making. This is a video about black powder lube. If you want to dissect salve making, go find a video about salve making and knock yourself out!
Just shot a large doe last night using this lube. I find that whether gun oil, lube, or personal scent, pales to being in a good spot, playing the wind, and being high enough off the ground. There are too many variables for a one size fits all answer any any given smell to deter big game.
I have heard of it. I’m sure there’s multiple variations out there. I’ve had zero issues with this method and it has truly served me well. It’s just too easy not to use!
Same ingredients, another method. Melt the beeswax in a short wide glass jar in a microwave oven. Add the oil and wintergreen. Stir. Done. When melting use about 20 seconds or so in the microwave, repeat over an over until it is liquid. (You could use any size glass jar to melt the wax and add the other 2 ingredients in and stir). Then poor the finished mixed mixture while it's still hot and liquid into metal screw top snuff cans
Ok, I eat squirrel from time to time. What seems odd is someone not knowing that people do this all the time. It's an historic thing for most of the country. Had planned a hunt for this week but the weather is gonna sabotage that. May have to try this lube formula. Gotta get the Hawken out and ready for the last deer season.
All across the United States, every state has its own implemented wildlife conservation programs that includes their hunting programs. Hunter data gets reported to help better understand these animals, their numbers etc… there are bag limits in place that provide a set number of animals per species a hunter can take in any given day or year. Because of the massive agricultural developements since the development of combines, certain game species have exploded in populations spreading communicable diseases and throwing off the balance. We are a part of the balance whether you like it or not. I’d rather hunt and eat a squirrel that was eating walnuts and drinking clean water off my land, than buy and eat meat from the super market that’s loaded with hormones and antibiotics, de-wormers etc. the squirrel had an opportunity to run, the beef cow did not.
I use fat from each years first archery deer. Gently heat it and pour of the oil. I have bees so have plenty of wax. Make a harder batch (more wax ) for bullet lube and softer batch for patches. Experimenting with punching out tube of lube with a plastic tube and slicing off wad size pucks for over ball lube on BP revolver cylinders. Smell, while not rancid, has been the only negative. Thanks for video. Essential oil will fix that!
I tried this a couple years ago n just made some more I use it for my round ball patches n Lee r.e.a.l bullets works really good not using any other lube. Thanks for the video..
I tried this and it works very well. I like how you can vary the thickness by changing the amount of beeswax. I found a cedar essential oil and used it instead of wintergreen so it now has a woodsy smell to it. Great instructional video!
Thank you!
Coconut oil has a 3 year self life vs 1 year for olive oil, and has corrosion resistant properties.
Try 7:1 (olive oil to bees wax) ratio for starters. One important tip.. keep mixing until everything solidifies! You get the micro crystal consistency like authentic bore butter.
I assume we're taking fluid ounces of the olive oil. Are we doing the same with the wax or are we weighing it? Thanks.
very instructional and answered my questions about bore butter...and then some. I needed to know what you pointed out for my 58, 36, 45 and 54 caliber patch-n-balls. Cheers!
Thank you!
Thanks for taking us along, really enjoyed your video. Can’t wait to try making my own.
I do about the same thing for my minié ball lube but I use lard and beeswax (and fir essential oil)! Works great. For patches, I've gotten lazy and just use mink oil paste.
Great tips Bill!
Just found you love your videos . Thanks for what you do learning alot
I really appreciate your support!
Theres something about looking up into the greenwood to the sounds of cicadas that just whispers..." summer" ...in your ears. Takes me back to being a boy in 1968.
I could put a hammock right there and take a nap!😂
There’s been many times where I’ve done just that! There’s seldom peace in this busy day and age. Seems like it takes effort to almost find it at times.
You could probably duplicate the yellow color of borebutter by adding dyes used for candlemaking. They are oil soluable, come in both liquid and solid form, and are relatively inexpensive. You could even amuse yourself by making your own custom colored bore butter.
Thanks for sharing your recipe. Definitely going to give this a try.
When I use the tube of bore butter in winter I mix extra olive oil to it to thin it out so I can use it. In tube during cols weather it won't come out of tube-to thick
I make the same for dubbing wax used in fly tying and also with boiled linseed oil for rubbing on wooden rifle stocks
Thank you for sharing this! TC Bore Butter is getting hard to find and I was worried about finding a good alternative. Thanks to your video I can now make my own.
I put our spearmint leaves in a jar of everclear alcohol to make tincture. A dribble into my mix works to give it a natural low land mint smell.
The creek to cool I caught ya on that one. Looks great. Could use it for chap stick too
An example of a beneficial acid is flux for soldering. When heated it activates the acids and the acids eat any oxidization on the joint and evaporates away, leaving a clean joint. I suppose similar to motor oil is when the oil is heated it collects debris and maintains lubrication. The viscosity of the motor oil allows for debris to sink to the bottom
That sure is a peaceful and beautiful place. Thanks for the good video I’m going to give it a try.
Thank you sir! It truly is a special spot. You won’t be disappointed! Thank you so much for your support…
I love the back ground sounds.
Kia Ora from NZ.
Great explanation of how to do :)
Love your appreciation of the nature around you.
All the very best
Nga mihi
Ma te wa
(Kind regards and have a great day) 😊
Thank you!
👍 I made some lube up but guessed the ingredients - beeswax , Vaseline and olive oil . Not far from right . Still got some left . Used a washed out food can , heated it up in that and put one of them plastic sealer caps on top . It’s good to make your own lube . I wasn’t in the woods when I did it though , maybe I should have 🤔
Hello there! Nice try BUT Vaseline is a petrolium product and is a definite NO in the world of black powder use. Majormusket got it right. I use mink oil tallow for patches (simple and cheap) and use Ballistol for final cleaning /lubing before storage. For DYI, use the recipe that is presented in this video above :) Greetings from the Great Smoky Mountains.
@@donnance1480 why for is petroleum jelly no good
When petroleum products burn they leave a tar instead of a slime and when it combines with black powder fouling it becomes harder to clean.
@@benjaminjarrett9816 thanks , now I know . I’ve started saving the fat from cooking the lamb and using that mixed with beeswax . After I shoot I strip my revolver right down and put the metal bits in hot water with a single drop of dish soap and clean parts as I take them out lightly oiling the springs and lubing the cylinder arbour before assembly .
@@donnance1480 petroleum jelly super refined. I use it no problem. Also i use paraffin wax bees wax and tallow for my cap and ball bullet lube on my Johnson and Dow bullets when i make paper cartridges. Also soak felt wads in same mix for my 50 and the 45 cap and ball. Petroleum jelly doesn't case the tar you are claiming. Ive been shooting muzzleloaders fior 30 years
Fun to go fronteer style. I tried a plastic funnel and turned a hand towel in to a lifetime supply of fire starter! Lol after I cooled my hand. Ouch!
I used to use mutton fat or beef fat (not from the kidneys) and mix it with dish washing detergent, it worked a tread and it was easy to clean my Kentucky rifle with hot water at the end of the day.
@@cannonballs6122 Kidney fat is the highest quality fat on an animal it is hard and waxy and has many uses including soap and candles. For Bore butter I prefer fat that is softer.
I'm glad I found your channel. I've made a few tubs of this bore butter and the stuff is just amazing.. of course it's easier to appreciate things when you DIY. Not only is it good for black powder guns, but it's good on your skin. Great for dry skin but also good for wounds or burns. I've been rubbing this stuff on everything lol. I'm now wondering if it'll work for deodorant
It really is amazing stuff. I’m preparing to do a followup video on it soon, now that I’ve spent a lot of range time and multiple hunts with it.
For the most part, I make a mixture of pure beeswax & Criso for my minie balls. If I'm shooting PRB, I lube the patches with olive oil.
I tried olive oil the last time out with my 50 cal. Trapper pistol. It was pretty accurate with 40 grains of FFFg and each shot loaded as easily as the one before. Thanks for bringing it up. 👍🏻
I know that was a great day spent in the woods. Great video.
It was exactly what I needed. I wish I could have stayed out there through the night.
Yeah. Ya have some cool ideas a some. Beautiful woods sound you. Is it your property ?
Trapping and muskets do go hand in hand! Great job, I think I'll try this project soon. Thanks and subscribed
I appreciate the support!
Another great video, I bought some beeswax a couple of weeks ago so I'll use some for my own bore butter, thanks again. As for trapping and BP shooting video, yes please.
Thank you John! Let me know how it goes!
For lubed felt wads used by my percussion revolver, I use tallow, beeswax, and a little bit of paraffin wax as a stiffener so they're not an oily mess in the summertime.
Thanks! Going to try this very soon. Already have beeswax for bow string making. Going to leave out wintergreen scent for deer hunting. May put wife's perfume in it. She walks by the deer during hunting season and they don't care. 🤣
Looks great! Perhaps I could add a bit of advice though. Even if extra virgin olive oil is used, it’s still not free of acid, so it might be more economical to use a cheap olive oil and neutralize its acidity. That was actually done by clock and watchmakers in the centuries past to create needed lubricants on their own.
I’ve read a book from 19th century called “Friction, Lubrication and the Lubricants in Horology” giving instructions how to refine oils from hooves, bones and whale blubber to olive oil. The method to neutralize acids from olive oil as described there is to mix the oil with caustic soda lye (one hundredth part of the weight) and shake it well. After several days (shaking it again periodically), a large quantity of water is to be added and oil poured off from the top.
For horological purposes it is also to be purified from other substances using alcohol, but I suppose that’s unnecessary here. The oil should be acid free after the above mentioned neutralization, which should be beneficial for firearms use.
Very fascinating information. Thank you for sharing. In my opinion, with the application of BP firearms, the mild acidity of olive oil is moot compared the the corrosiveness of the black powder we willingly pour down the barrel itself with every use. The most important thing is to know how to clean your weapon and store it properly by keeping all ferrous metal bits coated in a thin, non-buildup type oil between use.
Good video....
You can test consistency as you go by dipping something cold into the mix (tip of your knife will do), and test the consistency of the cooled bit as you go, same technique as jam(jelly) makers use....... Saves a lot of fooling around... Most bullet lubes for 'primitive' use are based on beeswax, and what you soften it with doesn't seeem to matter that much. Olive oil is great of course, but so is petroleum jelly (vaseline)... I have used such lubes exclusively for many years for both BP and smokeless loads up to high intensity .44 Magnum. I make up lube sticks of Beeswax/vaseline lube for my lube-sizer and it works a treat.... a bit more wax for this to make it stiffer for this use... It also is 'sticky' enough to hold bullets in paper cartridges with no other adhesive.
I Bought a 3# Container of Butter Flavored Crisco & iPint of Peppermint Extract that I Use for Bore Butter You can also Use Pine Resin !
Excellent video! I'd call this field-expedient bore butter, and it will work. Some notes:
1. Preparing salves, especially using natural oils, is best done with a double-boiler method. You can boil water in your bush pot and float a steel cup in the water. The oil, herbs, and wax go into the cup. This prevents acidifying (increasing free acidity) of the salve.
2. Fatty acid content of natural oils and free acidity are two completely different things. Some fatty acids are corrosion inhibitors for the steel or iron. Free acidity is corrosive.
3. Acidity is generally measured by pH with a range of 6 to zero. PH of 7 is neutral. PH of 8 to 14 is alkali (basic). It is regulated by 21 CFR 114.90
4. Two important parameters for oil are smoke point and pH. However pH of oil is difficult to measure and is often specified as % free acidity. The only oil that does not have free acidity is coconut oil with a pH between 7 and 8, slightly alkaline. The smoke point of refined coconut oil is 450 F. Compared to extra virgin olive oil: 0.8% free acid, sp 350 F. Sunflower and canola oil have about ten times less free acidity than olive oil.
So coconut or canola or suflower is better than olive oil?
@@improvisedsurvival5967 in general, yes. Organizations that use oil-based products specify delivered smoke point and free acidity since single source oils can vary significantly from batch to batch, growing area and season. Manufacturers will use blends with additives to meet specifications, often relying on petroleum sources. Since the video is DIY/craft, IMO use what you have and understand how that impacts your maintenance practice and frequency. One way to do that is to do your own tests and witness plates. One oil I'm trying as a base is grapeseed oil (not canola or rapeseed oil). IMO bore butter is more an art than a science so far.
@@nevisstkitts8264 the acid I never considered as anything. My first thought was coconut is a solid like shortening product and the wax to get her would be like a butter more than a oil liquid like olive oil and the wax. Was thinking something that stays more of a butter in warm temps cus who wants it melting of the gun in their holster in the summer I’m not expecting a protectant from this but a line that’s easy to wipe clean and cheap to make. Food grade oils seem to be the way to go. I’m sure there is millions of options but I’d rather touch food grade oils and wax than touching petroleum products with detergents made for cars. I can see using water to clean then some wd 40 to displace the water then fully dry for cleaning. Then bore butter over ball the felt wads really to me just add more expense and time.
Great idea! I can borrow a bit of my wifes Bertolli and purchase the beeswax and have an extremely economical product.
Hey @Majormusket... Well done with the song, nice you recorded for you own vid! Also, what was the ratio Beeswax to Oliv Oil or do you know??? hard to tell in the vid.
Awesome, gonna make some as well. What dollar store did you find that pot in? I like it as well. Thanks for the video.
Dollar general is where I found it. Thanks for watching!
OK, a half cup of what oil and how much bees wax?
It’s in the video bud lol. It’s not an exact science. Get the ingredients and have fun with it. You can always re-heat, melt down and add more wax if needed. You won’t regret it.
I went with 50-50 bees wax and lard for my 50 cal Lyman trade cap and ball it works great
That’s a very old school recipe. Great if you can find unsalted lard.
Beeswax in the mail, should be here friday. Better be, going to need some come sunday.
I haven’t used anything else since I’ve made mine. Works great!
Great vid sir! Gonna make it tomorrow. Thanks you.
Thank you for watching! It’s a great proven formula for me, you won’t be disappointed.
Thats a nice looking gun
OK, I am a newbie here. I just bought my first Thompson 50 Cal rifle. I get the lubrication idea for the bore. How much of that for butter do you actually apply to the patch? Do you completely saturate the patch?
Yep. Don’t overthink it. You want to make sure it’s nice and covered to get seated on your charge properly. After several shots, you have to fight some fouling, so a good lubricant will help.
Hi,Major, can Sunflower oil be used in place of Olive oil, or is it not as good? Cheers, Derek(u.k)
Couldn’t say one way or the other. My goal was to get as close to true bore butter as possible, thus the olive oil. You can always experiment!
I tried many different ingredients in the past then one day I had a toilet bowl wax seal that was damaged while on a new build site , and decided to try it for my muzzle loader and problem solved cheap and easy.
Brings a whole new meaning to the term “crap-shoot.”
@@Majormusket the ingredients are actually the same as what you pay for in the leading wax bore lubes, with a better consistency in warmer temperatures than the others . and with the price being one to three dollars for a basic ring seal you can't go wrong.
Im going to get into black powder rifles. Your video is so awesome. I know how to make bore butter myself now. Thank you so so mutch. I love the idea of it. More economical. Im even going to get into making me own black powder. Again thank you so mutch for your insight. It will help me tremendously.
Thank you for your kind words and for watching!
I’ve made my own bore butter too! Quick question, will the olive oil go rancid over time?
The beeswax has antimicrobial properties that I believe keep the olive oil stable. I haven’t had any issues this far. I just used the jar from this video last weekend at an all day shoot. No issues.
Please does it have a removable breech plug?
Just what I'm looking for
Terrific video, sir! Two questions:
What rifle is that? I like it.
Where did you get the bee's wax? I get mine from honey comb, but that is a slow process to get a substantial amount.
Thanks very much for the informative video. Michael.
Thanks, Michael! This is my grandpas first gun he made. Every screw and ever component was made by hand. He even bored and rifled the barrel. I bought the wax online. I like the cosmetic grade because of the lack of impurities. I believe you’ll get a more consistent product that way. I’m still using the same batch I’ve made and I’ve been shooting a lot. Quite a few woods walks and shoots. It can also double as an ointment.
Is it thick enough to stick to a maxi ball?
Does it clean up like the real stuff?
If you didn't care about the smell would it hurt to skip the scented oil?
Can you coat the bore with it when you're done?
Do you know if paraffin wax would work instead?
Sorry for all the questions but you really got me interested in this. Thanks.
It’s thick enough to stick to a maxi, cleans up great and helps with fouling while shooting, you can skip the scented oil no problem, you could coat your bore with it, but I would recommend something like birch wood Casey’s barricade oil. I’ve never messed with paraffin so I couldn’t say, but the bees wax is cheap, historically accurate and biodegradable.
@@Majormusket thanks. I've been away from muzzleloaders for years but I'm starting to get back to them now. This looks like a fun DIY project to make something I'll need anyway.
I have used toilet bowel ring for bees wax
Carefull with that. They are now made with petroleum products and not pure bees wax like they were 20 years ago.
@@jimhallford1879they quit making them with real bees wax since, the nineteen fifties! That was a little more than twenty years ago!
just found you like your. like your info
I do take the Butter for shoe shining, ist verry good, believe it.
I live in the deep south the problem i have with bore butter in 85 degrees it turns to piss
You can adjust your wax ratio to make a firmer formula for hotter temps. That’s what I did and it worked great.
Same problem I have here in the Southwest Mojave Desert area. Really HOT in the summer.. I’m gonna try this method using more beeswax in the warmer months, then thin it a bit with olive oil when the weather cools down. Thinking I won’t waste anything this way. I can always add more beeswax to any leftovers when it warms up again.
Do you think you could use this on an inline muzzleloader, or is that a whole separate thing?
You can use this for all muzzleloaders including revolvers. It also doubles as neosporin for small cuts, burns and chapped lips. Not even joking.
Great video. Been doing that a long time now. Nice shirt! Where'd that come from?
Thank you! The shirt came from “one blanket trader.”
Would cocoa butter be good to use?
I honestly couldn’t tell you lol
Will the acid in the olive oil hurt the gun metal, say if you did a 50/50 mix?
The acidity is so low that it’s not even worth a headache. All oils have acids in them. Black powder in and of itself is extremely corrosive, and we pour it down the barrel and blow it up lol the olive oil is fine.
Add pepper mint to it and keep yellow jackets away
Hi do you need tonput essential oil in I am just starting in black powder pistols
Nope. The oil is only for any added smell you may want. The product will turn out the same simply using the olive oil and beeswax.
Hi thanks you video's very helpfull I In UK keep going
Anyone make list. Of ingredients
Happy birthday
Happy belated birthday... thanks...
Thank you for watching Robert! This stuff has been awesome and I’m going to be making a followup video shortly.
That stuff will harden up the cooler it gets, you might have used to much wax. Lol I use the same stuff no wintergreen tho, hate the smell.
To each there own. This mixture has ended up great for me through summer or winter so far. I can’t complain.
I trapped in the the 1975 vprices were. Great
I guess a guy could leave it the perfume to have a more "stealthy" mix?
Sure!
Salve isn’t universally bees wax and olive oil. Salve basically refers to any topical remedy that has that spreadable but stable consistency. A lot of salves were made from petroleum jelly, so while you could make a salve from bees wax and olive oil, your statement that all salves are olive oil and beeswax is absolutely false. Many salves are made of toxic things that are fine on the skin but not in the mouth and certainly not in your stomach.
I never said all salves were made from beeswax and olive oil. I was simply referencing the way that I was familiar in making one. This is also not a how-to for salve making. This is a video about black powder lube. If you want to dissect salve making, go find a video about salve making and knock yourself out!
I take it you are not planning on large game. They would smell you coming a 1/2 mile away.
Just shot a large doe last night using this lube. I find that whether gun oil, lube, or personal scent, pales to being in a good spot, playing the wind, and being high enough off the ground. There are too many variables for a one size fits all answer any any given smell to deter big game.
What was the ratio?
It’s in the video lol. I believe it’s 1/2 cup olive oil to 3/4 stick of wax.
Just a pinch between cheek and gum.....Just kidding...Ever heard of using Murphy's Oil Soap instead of Olive Oil?
I have heard of it. I’m sure there’s multiple variations out there. I’ve had zero issues with this method and it has truly served me well. It’s just too easy not to use!
Murphys oil can cause migraines, to I suspect it is petrol toxic!
Same ingredients, another method. Melt the beeswax in a short wide glass jar in a microwave oven. Add the oil and wintergreen. Stir. Done.
When melting use about 20 seconds or so in the microwave, repeat over an over until it is liquid.
(You could use any size glass jar to melt the wax and add the other 2 ingredients in and stir). Then poor the finished mixed mixture while it's still hot and liquid into metal screw top snuff cans
WHY ???? WHY ???
21:06 you are killing the squirrels? why???
For food…
@@Majormusket I understand to play a game, but you don't need kill free animals. You have a market, buy the meat
Ok, I eat squirrel from time to time. What seems odd is someone not knowing that people do this all the time. It's an historic thing for most of the country. Had planned a hunt for this week but the weather is gonna sabotage that. May have to try this lube formula. Gotta get the Hawken out and ready for the last deer season.
All across the United States, every state has its own implemented wildlife conservation programs that includes their hunting programs. Hunter data gets reported to help better understand these animals, their numbers etc… there are bag limits in place that provide a set number of animals per species a hunter can take in any given day or year. Because of the massive agricultural developements since the development of combines, certain game species have exploded in populations spreading communicable diseases and throwing off the balance. We are a part of the balance whether you like it or not. I’d rather hunt and eat a squirrel that was eating walnuts and drinking clean water off my land, than buy and eat meat from the super market that’s loaded with hormones and antibiotics, de-wormers etc. the squirrel had an opportunity to run, the beef cow did not.
I’ve been insanely pleased with it so far.
Why make that crap?
No one said you had to lol
My mix is better than tc bore butter. Mine has no chunky crust in frosty morn. And no melt in afternoon sun.
I use fat from each years first archery deer. Gently heat it and pour of the oil. I have bees so have plenty of wax. Make a harder batch (more wax ) for bullet lube and softer batch for patches. Experimenting with punching out tube of lube with a plastic tube and slicing off wad size pucks for over ball lube on BP revolver cylinders. Smell, while not rancid, has been the only negative. Thanks for video. Essential oil will fix that!