The designer of the Death Star was actually highly competent. The vulnerability he left in there was intentional and subtle, while the design flaw of this lock is not.
@@anthonyobryan3485 "highly competent" Meanwhile, he's designing a ship that vents fluid directly into space. The death star is a joke, even by Star Wars standards. If the thing was actually designed that way, they wouldn't even need to blow up the reactor, just cut off the supply chain of the massive amounts of coolant that the death star would be trucking in from another planet, daily. Then the death star will explode all on its own without even having to touch it. At least this little lock requires you to touch it to defeat it.
I suppose with the Death Star at least you needed a competent pilot, here just a bit of wire will do the trick. You don't even have anyone shooting at you in the process.
The more lock picking lawyer videos I watch, the more I realize the most believable part of star wars is building a giant death star that has a critically easy to take advantage of flaw
This is my concern too, surely people will use these exploits faster than fixing them, though it is necessary since this technique must be quite well known already before Anon tells LPL about this. Plus the drain design kinda sus as if it was intended. Nometheless I think it is better to know about your lock rather than not.
@@the_kombinator The drain hole is there for a reason - to protect the electronic components inside. Blocking it could fry the internals if water builds up. Then you have a useless lock that can't be opened at all.
@@h.a.9880 Isn't that how bank vaults work? If you try to break into the vault, you'll either raise the dead with the noise or take all night. I think.
@@TheQuark6789 idk, the issue is easily solvable on the consumer side and it has avoided the common flaw among its genre. That means it’s effectively defended itself against an industry wide exploit that someone targeting the genre in general would tend to use Basically they passed the electronic version of the bump key test
There's a story about a man who was tasked by a wealthy noble to make a lock that could never be picked. The story goes that a particularly audacious thief would pick the lock on the front door at night and make off with a variety of jewelry and silver utensils which irritated the noble to no end, so he went to the town blacksmith and tasked him with designing a lock that would be 100% unpickable, then install it onto ever exterior door in his home. The blacksmith tried to tell him that no lock was completely impenetrable, but the nobleman would not relent, so the blacksmith agreed. Days went by, and the nobleman received word that the blacksmith had completed his task, and that he should take a stroll while the new locks were installed. When the nobleman returned, he found a rather impressive looking lock installed on every door. "No one will ever be able to get through this lock, milord" the blacksmith said. "Splendid" the nobleman replied, "but where is the hole for the key?" "Hole? For a key?" the blacksmith asked. "Yes, a keyhole, so that I can unlock my door." "Sorry milord. A lock that can never be picked, is a lock that can never be opened." The noble was furious. "How am I to enter my home, then!?" The blacksmith scratched his head for a moment, then said "Wait for the thief. When he breaks in through a window, ask him to unlock the door from the other side"
@@zcabage In the UK, we have a House of Lords. Some of those in the House of Lords, are nobles. Thus, a nobleman can be referred to as my lord, and be correct. However, quite simply it could be a case that: 1) The blacksmith is just engaging in good customer service 2) The nobleman is the owner of the land that the blacksmith lives on, hence making him the lord over the blacksmith.
It looks like it's a manufacturing thing. The bent over part must be "cut in" to stay flush with the rest of the metal sheet after being bent 90°. (not talking about the drain hole, but the inner inlay sheet metal)
@@plpGTR It doesn't necessarily need to be single-function. If they need to have that indentation anyway for ease of manufacturing, then they can arrange the assembly in such a way that it "just so happens" to point downwards so it also functions as a drain hole for accumulated condensation. And _additionally,_ it can serve the extra purpose of being an emergency mechanical bypass for when the lock fails and it needs a way to be opened. I have to wonder what the installation instructions mention; do they specify to position the hole in such a way to make it more cumbersome to enact such a bypass? Are there additional fittings included in the installation kit to block access to the hole while still allowing it to do its drainage job and be available for emergency bypass when needed by removing said fitting? I'm reminded of when, iirc, an Air Force budgetary committee asked for justification on why a particularly expensive power wrench was needed. The response was that it was a multi-function tool: it could not only tighten bolts, but loosen them as well.
@@plpGTR this metal doesn’t appear to be bent though it would most likely be cast. Meaning the slants were intended and I agree with other users it’s most likely designed as a bypass.
It's a thing in the locksport community. When you're videoing yourself opening a lock, you're not allowed to edit the video to prevent accusations of shenanigans.
You can't tell me they angled that drain hole towards a gap in the housing on accident. That was a backdoor intentionally put in there by the manufacturer. It's not a flaw, it's a feature.
you know I'm sort of inclined to agree that its a back door of sorts... that batteries clearly go on the inside of the door, what happens if they are stone dead... sure the lock will warn you the batts are going flat but what if you just don't act on it?
@@yandyyay Those two metal dots on the front towards the bottom are there for you to hold a 9V battery to it. This powers the electronics and allows you to scan your credentials and get inside in the event the internal batteries died. If anything, it is there for if the motor/electronics fails.
Schlage: Pick -proof! LPL: Unfortunately, you've made the very common mistake of making your lock, which leaves it open to the exploit I'm about to explain.
Those would both be marketing and tech support arguments. Design team would mention the no pick excuse but focus on redesigning the labyrinth navigated by the wire. A more fundamentals focused engineer would redesign the motor linkage to not be pushable.
A pick: Object(s) inserted into the internals of a lock and manipulated in a nondestructive manner that allows unauthorized entry. I see an unpickable lock that was just picked.
@@yandyyay yes but it leaves open the possibility that some non-destructive exploit will be found, as we see in the video here. If the same flaw existed, but was inaccessible from the outside, it wouldn't be a problem.
@@Merennulli Why is it impossible to put the mechanism on the inside? There must be some way to pass the outer handle's movement through to the inside, so that the outer handle actuates the bolt on the inside of the door (if the credentials are correct). It's hard to explain in words, but I'm thinking of something like: The outer handle is connected to a rod which goes through to the inside; this rod is encased in a hollow cylinder which is coupled to the bolt; the inside handle is directly coupled to the hollow cylinder; the rod is only coupled to the hollow cylinder if the credentials are correct (otherwise it turns freely).
@@Merennulli different tail piece design and have the outside ONLY a credential reader and have the "guts" on the inside and use the existing HOLE as a passthrough for the wiring and have the lock/unlock ONLY on the inside
LPL’s most unneeded line ‘let’s just show you again to prove it wasn’t a fluke.’ Never seen LPL open a lock and think, that was lucky. Keep up the great work. Love watching your videos
@@taumag Actually he is aware of the fact that too long form content does not do too well currently, so no, padding the video time is not a reason. It's actually to prevent people who might claim he is reshooting the video over and over until he is truely fast just a single time. Doing it a second time in a row with relatively equal speed shows that there is at least some sort of consistency to what he presents in the video.
Yeah, that's because you didn't make one of the locks featured in one of his videos, but hurt butts find a way to soothe the sting and "lucky" is the easiest call when your $500 lock fails to a wire in 5 seconds.
for college dorms, it would prolly be feasible to 3D print a small high-infill insert that fits in the area between the two bottom screw holes that still allows the drain hole work as a drain but blocks access to the mechanism by being braced against the casing ...but most colleges will prolly spend hundreds of thousands to replace the locks and charge students for it 🙃
Yea they wouldn't have put a drain hole unless they found it necessary during testing. Especially if these are mounted on an external door more subject to the elements those electronic components would likely stop functioning correctly.
@@Joe45-91 The case is metal, so when the temperature drops, all the moisture from the air inside is going to condensate on that metal. Without that wall, you'll get a small puddle on the bottom.
The cynic in me says this was done on purpose, so that would-be locksmiths could easily sell entry, in case of an emergency. Remember that much of the "physical secuity" world still operates on a "security by obscurity" mindset.
@@koresoteira447 It absolutely is. The hole itself is angled directly towards the spot the wire needs to go to. Watch it again, preferably in a decent resolution.
@@koresoteira447 If you pause the video around 4:35, you can see the cutout is angled directly towards the spot the wire needs to hit. It looks very intentional to me.
There's also a gap in the mechanisms shielding. They covered most of the mechanism to prevent this kind of attack then left a small opening. It's gotta be on purpose
Since the hole is angled towards the exploit region, I wonder if it's actually intentionally there to allow for locksmiths to unlock it in the event of something going wrong, etc. If that's the case, it's no wonder it's marketed towards building managers, since that would be a bigger concern than their tenants getting broken into.
And regardless, for a great many landlords, “Tenants won’t know and can’t do anything about it if they do” will win out over replacing any of these locks.
Just easier engineering. Easier to work with and ignore gravity than it is to go against it. Drain hole at the bottom and electirc parts above. just makes sense from a design perspective
I just tried it on my apartment lock and it worked, it is a slightly different model and outdated, but that is literally terrifying. I had no idea what I was doing but I did it on the first try
The “drain hole” is actually angled towards the mechanism that unlocks it so it’s easier to get something in there to unlock it. After this video, price for the whole lock kit is going to be on sale for $19.99 and infomercials at 2 am 😂🤣
But wait! There's More! Buy 1 lock, get a second lock FREE! and as a special TV only offer if you call in the next 125 minutes, get a free bottle of epoxy seal to stop the exploit for only a $1.99. But wait! There's More!... ...Tiny super fast legalese text scroll with a fast voice over explaining shipping costs and no liability if the lock is picked....
I would assume because of the shape of the hole and the slit that allows the wire to reach the inner part that is is actually a "feature" that allows the lock to be opened with a special tool e.g. when the battery is empty or the key card broken.
The biggest flaw of all is that the part that does the unlocking is on the outside. On an electronic lock, in a good design, it should always be on the inside.
Yep. The bypass isn't hard to prevent (at least, you're trying to prevent non-destructive entry easy) but there's no fix for vulnerable components like that.
Drill a hole to the right of the drain hole (as seen from the rear). Put as long of a machine screw as you can in, with a nut on the inside, to prevent a wire from going straight to the opening. Test it; Add nuts if necessary.
@@troy3456789 Now it can be opened with a bit of wire + a screwdriver. Easiest option is to just fill that void with tightly packed steel wool. It'll still drain water so you don't end up with a short after months or years outside collecting water, but it'll block that wire so long as it's packed tightly enough
@@vakieh4381 I'm thinking the nut on the inside will turn if you use a screwdriver from the outside. A nylock (locking nut) would help too. The idea is to cause the wire to divert to the wrong angle. (Hole drilled on the side of where the wire goes up; not blocking the important drain hole) Steel wool seems messy and won't stop a stiff wire like what he used in my opinion.
I'm pretty sure if you complain to building management, some poor maintenance person will have to go around with a tube of JB Weld putty and just put a little bit in every drain. I'd imagine the warranty claims department at Schlage is going to be unimpressed with you for this 😂 EDIT People, drilling a hole, chipping it away, etc is a destructive entry and leaves evidence. That's beyond the scope. Is blocking the drain hole like I suggested ideal? No. But the correct solution is to dismount every latch and do an internal modification, which is probably more than most maintenance departments want to get into
@@SunriseLAW If the inside is all plugged up, a thin piece of wire is going to take a very long time to chip through it all. Alternatively, jb weld a small piece of metal like a grub screw at just the right spot.
@@SunriseLAW You weren't using it right then. I've repaired all sorts of parts with jb weld. o2 bungs on an exhaust manifold only worked temporarily, but the fix still last 2-3 months when I allowed the plug to cure for only 5-6 hrs. On key fobs, lamp bases in industrial settings, workshop fixes, autobody repairs etc the stuff cures so consistently to the substrate that getting them to separate is basically impossible.
Which works till water makes its way in and submerge the electronics. A better solution would to install it so that it's recessed and flush mounted in the wall, preventing all access to the drain plug while also allowing it to drain if need be
Years ago, I heard a security expert say “you’re never safe. If someone wants to do you harm, they can. Most people just don’t have people wanting to harm them.” Locked doors just give the illusion of safety.
I've sold lockpicks to international hackers who get worried that my credit card reader is bugged, while I worry that all these crafty people will steal stuff. Turns out, 99.999% of people are basically honest and decent, and if they weren't society would crumble in a day
I agree! I have for a long time been impressed at how very professional his videos are. Of course, one would hope that a court lawyer who practised in commercial litigation would be able to do a clear, professional presentation in "one take"; judges aren't impressed if a court lawyer asks for a do-over!
@@GigaBoost It's to maintain integrity, or at the very least, prove without a shadow of a doubt that he isn't manipulating any of the locks when he reviews them. It's also why he often picks locks multiple times, to prove his success wasn't a fluke. The benefit of being allowed to be lazy is just a nice bonus.
LPL: "Hey, honey, how's college going?" LPD: "Great, dad! They just upgraded our dorm locks to these fancy new smart locks." LPL: "I'll be right there 😐"
@@Jake420 Yes, it is, hes saying that he would have never thought from now till ten years in the future he'd watch lockpick videos for fun but he is now. Also the sobbing emoji doesnt mean Im actually crying, its used in this context as a way to say "bro what is this/what are you saying/bruh"
Drain hole could be angled different like a zig zag or snake shape and also put some fine mesh at each turn of the zig zag so that water still escapes but provides difficulty to sneak a wire through multiple zig zag layers. Also don’t angle the “drain hole” close to the unlocking mechanism.
I agree. Honestly if they still want the drain hole to work as a mechanical bypass they could improve the security by zigzagging the hole as you've mentioned and maybe they could have some sort of mechanism with pins that slide up and down so when you put an object of the right shape in, it'll activate the mechanism in case of electronic failure.
I think they kept it this way because if water actually does get in, the lock itself would fail. And the need for people to get into their own house is much more important than the need to keep others out.
I install locks a couple dozen times a year. I always point people to LPL if they ask for an opinion on any given lock. The lock of horror as they watch the video is amazing.
Holy crap! This one is huge. I can see lawsuits if Schlage doesn't bring out a retrofit kit to block where the wire slips between the guard and the screw post. Wow, when a company like Schlage misses such an obvious exploit for years on such a critical product, Master Lock doesn't look so bad any longer.
All I can think of is some guy with Autocad running designing that housing and being told "there needs to be a drain hole" and then saying "but then someone can stick a piece of metal up there and bypass the lock". And an argument ensuing in which the engineer tries to take a stand, but the product manager is like "overruled" and then the guy just says fuck it and goes to lunch.
@@rmyers99 Nah, it's the engineerings fault in this case. The stamped steel piece is supposed to be shielding against this exploit (after they forgot that in the casting), but they chose the one manufacturing technique that wouldn't actually work because the radius they need for the srew hole leaves this one hole through which LPL could fit the wire. Had this shield been made any other way (molded plastic for example) it would have worked. Should instead have made the actuator that sees machanical load out of steel.
@@BL-yj2wp I'll certainly never bet against cost reduction; but my assumption was that the plastic component was plastic, in surroundings that were mostly metallic, because that's one way to keep otherwise trivial magnetic manipulation from being an issue. Probably not a coincidence that plastic, rather than one of the more expensive nonferrous metals, was chosen for the job; but still a questionable place for steel.
This reminds me of when I lived in military barracks on active duty. We all had key card locks with metal security doors with metal frames. Soldiers would lose their keys daily, and require a master key from battalion to open them. I got locked out one day and decided to get in on my own. Turned out the door frame was so cheap, I could use a long 20mm wrench, and wedge it in-between the door and frame, and bend the frame far enough to pop the door open.
YOu know what i love from your videos? They have it all. All the content, the "introduction", the "development" and the "conclusion". You show all it has to be showed. AND THEY ONLY LAST FOR 5 MINUTES. Thats F awesome.
@@the_kombinator I am sorry for your lack in reading and understanding skills. Hara is clearly impressed how much content and story the LPL gets into only 5 minutes (which I agree with is impressive). Hara does not state anywhere a maximum attention span of minutes nor is that implied.
If you look closely to that drain hole, it has an angle pointing directly on that plastic block, as if it WAS designed for that exact purpose of bypassing lock mechanism.
@@zuttoaragi8349 - Most likely, but it is a very terrible bypass system when even the most unskilled thief can easily learn this, or get it to open accidentally by a little prodding. Much better to just add a good secondary bypass keyhole if the electronic shorted.
As soon as you said RFID, I knew exactly what the flaws was gonna be. I used to be the guy tasked with throwing out old or unsold opened product at a hardware store and I saw stuff like this all the time. RFID and electronic locks almost ALWAYS have a physical, mechanical weakness.
Anyone who works in the tech industry hates these, too, because they're *also* flawed from the cybersecurity POV. Anything that uses the credentials of a smart device to open it is a thing that can be cheesed through by compromising the device, not to mention issues with the actual computer security aboard the lock.
@@made.online2149 You can't cheese a mechanical lock from miles away, tho, and just like how Master Lock never updates their designs pretty much all smart locks never get security updates.
@@repentandbelieveinJesusChrist3 Wrong message you are sending. People do not react to demands of penance, they react more to messages of love. Stop talking from high position, and start talking from equal status.
@@ElBandito The message is entirely unrelated to the video. This is a spambot "spreading" the coder's beliefs however they can where it's unwanted and unneeded. I don't think it matters that they could be more efficient in how they spam.
Yeah, sure Mark. We're sending the FBI right over. You probably tore off that mattress tag too. Federal offenses. You'll be going away for a long time. 😅
As LPL says in some videos, don't pick locks that are in use, as there is some chance you will break it. (On the other hand, some people like to simply stop using their apartment key and lockpick their way in every day. So really, do what you want.)
Me: "Oh, a 5 minute video! Maybe this has something interesting or obscure going on?" LPL: spends half the video just showing us how to disassemble the lock. Me: "Well played, sir."
ive been a thief for about 2.5 years now and i want to thank you in how much youve helped me throughout these years! i love it when you upload and each upload gives me more progress in my journey 🙌
My father was a carpenter and was hired to fix a door to a house that was broken into. When he arrived, he found the door with about 4 deadbolt locks still locked, however the thieves had just removed the outer casing and pulled the door, still in it's jambs, right out of the building, set the door and jambs next to the house, and walked in. Your locks are only as good as the jambs in which the door is mounted. Front door jambs need to thick and set into the house frame with large nails, though bolts are better.
@@edward1927 You could just take a sawsall to the wall next to the door. After all, it;s just some vinyl or aluminum siding, a sheet of OSB or plywood, some 2x4s, and a sheet of drywall. My dad told me a robbery he saw on the news where the burglars used a cordless circular saw and just cut the wall open.
I had a mountain side cell site to work on and the Supra dead bolt had a dead battery on the door. Hinges were outside and just popped the pins and in we go.
Generally speaking, you don't have a lot of thieves showing up to your front door with power tools and looking to saw through the wall for the obvious reason that it's not worth the time, effort, and risk to do something you can accomplish by just kicking the door in.
right at 4:10 where he says "you turn the wire", that wire is passing over a perfectly placed recess in that inner metal bracket. between that and the way the "drain hole" is angled perfectly to feed the wire right where it needs to go, this _has_ to be a deliberate feature not a bug
would it be dumb to assume that its a "secret" way for a lockpicker that specializes in these locks to get it open if the owners lose their credentials to open it?
Exactly what I was thinking. This has to be intended, although they meant it to only be known to locksmiths and security personnel so that they can let people into their apartments. It was definitely not intended to go beyond professionals/intended people.
@@kasper_429 that’s the issue, it’s like having a master code that’s the same for every safe of a particular model. Those out of the loop won’t know but the second information breaks out it’s just free hunting.
@@kasper_429 But that's not how security works. It takes one person to know the secret to share it maliciously or accidentally and the whole security falls away.
both LPL and mcnally are my favorite lock pickers. I love how "official" and "professional" LPL seems, where-as I love the choas of mcnally destroying masterlocks reputation
@@Spiker985Studios Even if you seal the drain hole it's still a critical design flaw and your seal can be mitigated very quickly and with minimal notice using a dremel most likely.
@@deedoubs I mean, most would be thieves are going to be looking for easy targets. I don't know about you, but I don't have an electrical outlet near my front door. The only secure thing to do is to confuse the hell out of would-be thieves - otherwise you're just trying to be marginally more secure than your neighbor. If they *really* want that stuff, they're just gonna cause damage and nab it anyway
4:09 that security flaw is entirely because that's a stamped piece of metal. I can see that there was clearance made for when the round segment got bent down in the press. If it was a solid piece of material there would be no gap for the wire to fit through.
One solution would have been to just extend the length of the guard piece so it could be bent 180° at the end to block off the opening left by the screw tab.
@@HarveyDangerLurker it's just a part of the manufacturing process. Stamped parts are cheap when you need hundreds of thousands of them, and regrettably you need clearances built in for it to work.
The whole design is very weak for a 300 dollar product. One can just drill a little hole at the bottom until they see some plastic shavings and then easily manipulate the lock with any stick that fit through the hole.
That’s what happens when pool of qualified engineers who can design locks keeps shrinking and brands only rely on their legacy brand names to market products to mass consumer.
I think if I lived in a large apartment building with these locks, I would be tempted to unlock all the doors and leave them open to get everyone to pressure the management to do something about these locks.
Just put a sticky note on each of the locks with a link to this video. A lot easier and less risk of some neighbor not understanding your intentions and calling the police (or worse).
It’s not a drain whole, because it is sloped in the direction the wire needs to aim. It is a bypass, like the one designed into interior lock sets for bedrooms and bathrooms; so the lock can be breached in case of an emergency or accidental lockout. In the scenarios where this lock would be used, it circumvents lockout due to a dead battery. Likewise, the internal gap next to the screw is intentional. That is where I would block the intrusion, if I preferred to cut a hole in the door or wall when the unit is faulty or the battery dies. What this unit needs is an ability to connect an external power source, like induction with no holes, when the battery dies.
"I can open this in just a few seconds with nothing but a thin piece of wire" Now we can debate the meaning, but "open using only a thin piece of wire" seems like a decent definition of "picking" to me.
I can't explain why I like these videos, other than that I like tech... Where I live in Thailand, I haven't locked my car, house or bike in 20 years. Here there is a community vibe that is way more secure than any lock design.
So something thin but permeable stuffed into that area would theoretically make it a pretty decent lock. Cheese cloth or stainless steel mesh like from a sifter maybe.
Just put some epoxy to block the slot next to the screw-post where the shim passes. I’d probably use JB Weld for it. The drain hole does serve a purpose and it would be better not to block it.
If the lock is outdoors, you don't want to block that drain hole - just get inside there with some epoxy putty or a little piece of metal and superglue, and block the path from the drain hole to the lifter piece, while leaving the hole open for water to drain out.
Still the issue that the people that have these locks likely aren't allowed to make any changes to them. Covering the drain hole is meh, easy enough to do unnoticed. But applying epoxy without damaging something and still actually sealing the gap would require one to take it off the door and remove the casing of the lock. Neighbors and college dorm mates can and are tattletales. If you have even a busybody, not just people who hate you, you could get in a hell of a lot of trouble for taking it apart.
@@s.colins2050 I was looking at it from the perspective of the owner of the lock - the homeowner, the hotel or institutional maintenance guy, etc. As a tenant / dorm student / hotel guest / etc, yeah, it's probably not a good idea to go taking apart a lock that you're not actually authorized to tamper with.
The idea of not being allowed to change the lock on an apartment you rent with your hard earned money as a private space for yourself is absolutely foreign in my country. But then I remembered that the rental market in the US is dominated by evil corporations.
@@pontoancora If the lock is on an exterior door - exposed to weather - any rain water that finds its way into the lock needs to have a way to drain back out again, or else it can cause extensive corrosion inside.
At least this one has an easy way to fix is, just weld the drain closed, or at least weld the right side closed so water can still get out while also blocking a wire from reaching the mechanism. Most of the flaws he finds are fundamentally impossible for the average person to fix.
the way the hole is angled in 4:08 makes me believe, that this is actually intended to work that way.. think about the scenario, where the lock is actually not opening due to technical reasons or because the owner lost his/hers access - that hole would make it possible to open up the lock without destroying the whole door.. that being said: I think thats a horrible way to ensure pickability, when its so easy to do and the lock claims to be unpickable
Yup. They purposely added a gap for this to work. It's an easy fix if they really wanted to, just close the damn gap and this bypass is out the window.
@@shapowlow I agree, but then again how would they open up the lock if lets say the chip is malfunctioning or if there is any other technical issue..? They would have to install some sort of mechanical safety mechanism or concede pickabilty entirely, which should be communicated to the customer.
@@Nuurix yup. i hope it's mentioned in the manual that came with the product so the customers have the choice to purposely close the hole if they want to.
We had these all over the one large condo complex I worked at to keep guest out of employee only areas. Sometimes we would find stuff rearranged or missing after spring break groups came through. I'm guessing more than a few people already knew this trick. But truth be told there is no such thing as a Pick-Proof lock. Any lock can be opened if the thief is determined and has enough time. Locks are only there to slow them down.
A lot of the time you only need to wait for someone to come out, nod to them with a straight face, and just walk in as if you're supposed to do that. Not in small places, but the more employees there are (or residents in an apartment building), the less likely they are to say anything.
This seems a very easy problem to solve too. Just change the shape of the drain hole to be 'Z' shaped. I.e. a couple of back and forth returns, and you wouldn't be able to get a wire to trace into the area it needs to be in.
@@pontoancora The hole on the bottom of a padlock allows water to drain. This prevents the padlock's internal mechanisms from rusting, so they can continue to function properly.
This is hilarious. I love this channel so much. Good thing he doesn’t show his face because I’m sure he would get a target on his back. Keep them coming!
I am looking forward to the time, when lock manufacturers are using LPLs brand to scale how secure their locks are and put the rating on the packaging. If it's not LPL approved, it doesn't seem worth buying, or at least factor in they changes he recommends. Very cool. How a hobby like lock picking, turned into a life skill.
Heck the few times it takes an honest effort are massive endorsements! Shows how unlikely a common to slightly skilled thief will pick it. Then again these people are unlikely to have even crude window security tho.
It appears that just putting a solid block in front of the access area to the right not allowing full reach to the actuator would be sufficient without having to block the drain hole. Glue, a scrap piece of metal, a small ball bearing or anything solid to block the wire would suffice. As always, fantastic display of how the lock works and the flaw LPL.
LPL- See this electronic lock? Can you guess how we open this electronic lock? Schlage- The key fob, use the key fob! LPL- That's right, we use the drain hole! Schlage- *starts having a panic attack*
Wow I am always amazed at how some locks are big and beefy in most areas yet can be defeated buy a piece of wire or a good magnet. I suppose it is very hard to build something that can not be picked or manipulated open especially if you know how it works.
I'm maintenance at 2 multi unit apartment buildings. Only had to drill one lock out so far. But I'm trying this on the FE410F model. It seems to be next to impossible to accomplish. But I'm going to be trying it out. Problem is that you have limited range of motion when it's mounted. And the backplate is recessed a little bit. Only other problem with these locks is the plunger part that moves the plastic locking mechanism. If the building is settling, it effects the doors most noticeably at this part because there is friction between the door jamb and the barrel bolt. Forcing it to work weakens the metal ring the plunger is attached to and it eventually fails.
The worst thing is that this is clearly a feature meant to be opened from that hole if the batteries are death, so probably not going to be changed by the lock creators any time soon.
It looks like the lock has a spot on the front to hold a 9V battery to the lock to power it in a dead situation, that is probably coupled with an installer RFID fob that is default and doesn't require registering. (For which cloning that fob might be another vector)
No it's clearly a drain hole. They expect the lock may get mounted on the outside of a exterior door. The PCB is clearly potted to help with water resistance. The hole in the bottom is to drain the water so that the lock mechanisms don't get eaten up by water too fast.
It's not as if water cares if the hole is angled or not - and a simple barrier over the drain hole and under the plastic bit (so that any water would flow around it) could have prevented this...
Im kinda hesitant to call this a design flaw. The way that it works makes me think Schlage left it there on purpose,just that they were also hoping people aren't aware of it
@@riku861 I thought the same thing at first, but if you look at the outer face of the lock, you see there's two little rubber circles below the doorknob, indicating under those are terminals to supply power in case of dead batteries.
@@juukyll That should work assuming the unit retains all its passkey programming with a dead battery. Those terminals should also be protected with a diode, should the polarity be applied in reverse by accident, or if someone mischievous presses a 9v battery to the terminals.
I just love the way you find these flaws in so called "security locks". I always find it so hard to believe that the people who design these things don't realize that these potential problems exist, (or just don't care). You'd think with videos like yours on You Tube these manufacturers would do everything possible to make sure their locks can't be bypassed with such ease, making them look incompetent and unprofessional.
Based on my (admittedly limited) experience in mechanical trades, there's a good chance these flaws WERE brought up, but it was deemed either a bureaucratic and/or logistical nightmare to retool the facility that makes the locks. Mass stupidity doesn't tend to be the result of one key stupid person, so much as friction between multiple people who would otherwise be considered competent.
Almost every lock is designed to keep honest people from entry, not the one that want to break in. Just as pharma industry want to keep people sick to sell them more drugs.
Thank you for your educational and security awareness content. I have been avoiding going wireless at home for other reasons and this just fortifies my reasoning. Guess still the best option is to have a couple of high-end locks just so it would take longer for the intruders to get in.
Blocking the drain hole would be a bad idea on exterior doors exposed to weather. Drain holes are there for a reason. A better solution would be to place a barrier(maybe some jb weld) in the void space next to the right screw hole to block access to the push plate.
Seems like the quick fix for Schlage here would be to just whip up a small metal plate that slips into the base of the lock body there, and would be held in place with a couple of bent tabs that fit over the screw holes.
It seems like electronic are the worst because they need a physical bypass that's different from their main security features, so they're usually skimped on.
I bought a similar kee pad version that uses the same mechanism earlier today. Upon opening it up I was happy to see that Schlage had included a sturdy piece of plastic that blocks the drain hole while still allowing water to get out. Now I leave it to you to find a way around this new feature.
Someone actually wrote an article on this video, and I found it and died laughing. They were like "This guy is amazing! I literally don't believe in locks anymore." And I wanted to comment "you must be new", but I don't comment on online journal articles of dubious origin, no matter how good they are.
Most locks are just fine because the vast majority of criminals use brute force. It's far more important to use a good quality deadbolt (grade 1 or 2) WITH reinforced strike AND 3" screws (hinges too). Otherwise most doors can be easily be kicked in. And never open your door to strangers - no exceptions. Also consider an alarm system.
I've found so many locks w/ bypasses like this but I've always used spring steel strips I find on the road from the street sweepers.... It's easily filed and cut so it's pretty easy to make a shim or pick w/ it, I bet it would work great on this. 😉👍
Those were my second set of picks :D First was a slowly ground on a grinding wheel hacksaw blade so I didn't lose the temper... and a ground down allen wrench for a tension wrench.... and about 20 minutes reading about how locks worked in the Encyclopedia Britannica in the late 70's :D
I've cut pieces of flat sewer rod, it's thin and springy and with a set of files it's easy to make a basic set of picks. I used shrink tubing for the handles. Works like a charm
I'm a big fan of Schlage for run of the mill locks. But only their old style mechanical locks because I'm also a big fan of the "KISS" principle ;) I see a separate issue with that little plastic piece. I live in a VERY cold part of the country where winters are not at all kind to flimsy little plastic parts. They've got a spring coupler between the solenoid and the plastic piece but just the same I wonder what some -30F weather will do to that plastic when the solenoid activates. You may need to know that bypass to get into your own property.
Two days ago I was in a hotel that had these locks.I did note the drain-hole on the bottom, but didn't have the time or inclination to try to pick it. Bravo!
Looks very fixable to me, both by the user and by the manufacturer, either by replacing that metal shield, or by adding one small part that will obstruct the path. It doesn't even need to completely block the drain hole.
yea, I'd slip that metal back plate, that's held with the Torx screws, in a vice, and bend the bottom just enough so anything put into the drain hole would have to do some kind of reach around to make it in.
You could also re-engineer the plastic "clutch" for the knob with a stiffer spring or something else to prevent a slight push from a wire being enough to pop it into place.
There might also be a second way in. On the circuit board, just to the left of the connector for the solenoid in the upper right corner, there looks to be a small relay. Assuming that's the case, and if the enclosure isn't ferrous metal, a magnet could potentially close that relay and energize the solenoid. Might be worth a try.
That doesn't look like a relay. I believe what you're looking at is a capacitor (the yellow color gives it away, though it's hard to tell through the silicone(?) they've encased it in).
not a relay, tantalum capacitor (polarized type), the micro/PIC in the lock is probably using a MOSFET/SCR for energising what looks to be a solenoid/linear actuator on the mechanism to engage the handle
I would comfortably say it's an STM32 considering theres a 10 pin JTAG header which is unpopulated, can just about make out the atmel logo on the package
![[1177] Australian High Security: BiLock Version 2 Picked and Gutted](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/f5uk6C1iDkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![[1177] Australian High Security: BiLock Version 2 Picked and Gutted](/img/tr.png)
![[927] The Strongest Padlock in the World (Seriously) - Squire Stronghold SS100CS](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nwgwCmh7SGg/mqdefault.jpg)
"Helm's Deep has one weakness. Its outer wall is solid rock, but for a small culvert on its base, which is little more than a drain."
Nicely done.
This should be the top comment :D
Criminally underrated comment
Well played Sir, Well played indeed!
Don’t forget the Death Star!! Same shtick…
A surefire way to have your products featured on this channel is to include "pick proof" as part of the sales pitch
Just asking for a bone to be picked with lol
Lord Voldemort hasn't been featured yet and it looks like his nose should be "pick proof".
@@Najolve Riddle's "nose" isn't a product… ;-)
@
Probably because it's not in stock..
Or as the brand name, if only for humor value.
i'm glad to see the designer behind the death star has had a prolific career in the lockmaking industry!
@kerricaine
You don't even have to be a Jedi to open this lock lol.
The designer of the Death Star was actually highly competent. The vulnerability he left in there was intentional and subtle, while the design flaw of this lock is not.
@@anthonyobryan3485 "highly competent" Meanwhile, he's designing a ship that vents fluid directly into space. The death star is a joke, even by Star Wars standards. If the thing was actually designed that way, they wouldn't even need to blow up the reactor, just cut off the supply chain of the massive amounts of coolant that the death star would be trucking in from another planet, daily. Then the death star will explode all on its own without even having to touch it.
At least this little lock requires you to touch it to defeat it.
I suppose with the Death Star at least you needed a competent pilot, here just a bit of wire will do the trick. You don't even have anyone shooting at you in the process.
The more lock picking lawyer videos I watch, the more I realize the most believable part of star wars is building a giant death star that has a critically easy to take advantage of flaw
Shout-out to LPL for showing the entire planet how to break into my home
This is my concern too, surely people will use these exploits faster than fixing them, though it is necessary since this technique must be quite well known already before Anon tells LPL about this.
Plus the drain design kinda sus as if it was intended. Nometheless I think it is better to know about your lock rather than not.
Better to know your home is easy to break into, rather than believing it is secure.
Schlage already reacted and out out an information to all the customers how to fix it. That's because if the pressure such videos create.
Take some epoxy and cover the hole. He just showed you the vulnerability, fix it.
@@the_kombinator The drain hole is there for a reason - to protect the electronic components inside. Blocking it could fry the internals if water builds up. Then you have a useless lock that can't be opened at all.
I can just imagine Schlage's top executive having an emergency meeting after this video dropped 😂
Tomorrow morning at Schlage HQ will be "interesting", yes.
Arr you kidding? They'll leave as is, its been 8 years already, they aren't going to change it
Houston we have a LPL problem... 😂
lol i like calling them schlang :)
Is Schlang, Schlage's man part ?
“A hat tip to the viewer that showed me this anonymous exploit”. Ex Schlage employee just got the greatest dismissal revenge ever.
That drill took longer to get those screws out than you did to unlock the door... major props
No kidding, a giant screw, that takes a minute to unscrew, would be a better locking mechanism.
@@h.a.9880 lmao just a bunch of 10 foot screws
@@h.a.9880 Isn't that how bank vaults work? If you try to break into the vault, you'll either raise the dead with the noise or take all night. I think.
LPL: Pulls out paper clip.
Executive: "Our lock is 100% Pick proof."
LPL: Starts unfolding paperclip.
Executive: "Our lock is 100% pick proof, right?"
Well they didn’t say paperclip proof
Lock Developer: "Well...umm..."
LPL:- *"I"* will be the judge of that.
PR guy: “Pick proof?! Let me see that brochure. Oh, ha-ha, we meant «prick-proof»”
SCNR
Are these type of videos legal? Would it also not count against defamation charges?
For once, a smart lock not defeated by a magnet?! I LOVE IT!
That is tomorrow's video.
I don't think this is better....
@@TheQuark6789 Yes, but the fix for this is something anyone could knock out
I was going to comment "hands up if you thought he was going for the magnet", but the second I saw the comment section I knew I was far too late.
@@TheQuark6789 idk, the issue is easily solvable on the consumer side and it has avoided the common flaw among its genre. That means it’s effectively defended itself against an industry wide exploit that someone targeting the genre in general would tend to use
Basically they passed the electronic version of the bump key test
There's a story about a man who was tasked by a wealthy noble to make a lock that could never be picked. The story goes that a particularly audacious thief would pick the lock on the front door at night and make off with a variety of jewelry and silver utensils which irritated the noble to no end, so he went to the town blacksmith and tasked him with designing a lock that would be 100% unpickable, then install it onto ever exterior door in his home. The blacksmith tried to tell him that no lock was completely impenetrable, but the nobleman would not relent, so the blacksmith agreed.
Days went by, and the nobleman received word that the blacksmith had completed his task, and that he should take a stroll while the new locks were installed. When the nobleman returned, he found a rather impressive looking lock installed on every door. "No one will ever be able to get through this lock, milord" the blacksmith said. "Splendid" the nobleman replied, "but where is the hole for the key?"
"Hole? For a key?" the blacksmith asked.
"Yes, a keyhole, so that I can unlock my door."
"Sorry milord. A lock that can never be picked, is a lock that can never be opened."
The noble was furious. "How am I to enter my home, then!?"
The blacksmith scratched his head for a moment, then said "Wait for the thief. When he breaks in through a window, ask him to unlock the door from the other side"
😅😅
Brilliant!!
@@zcabage Not like it actually happened bro it's just a story
@@zcabage not with that attitude he doesn't
@Cabage and only the uneducated use the word "bruh" so you kinda cancel yourself out there
@@zcabage In the UK, we have a House of Lords. Some of those in the House of Lords, are nobles.
Thus, a nobleman can be referred to as my lord, and be correct.
However, quite simply it could be a case that:
1) The blacksmith is just engaging in good customer service
2) The nobleman is the owner of the land that the blacksmith lives on, hence making him the lord over the blacksmith.
That seems less like a "drain hole" and more like a "security bypass." That exploit is so ridiculously obvious that I can't believe it was a mistake.
It looks like it's a manufacturing thing. The bent over part must be "cut in" to stay flush with the rest of the metal sheet after being bent 90°. (not talking about the drain hole, but the inner inlay sheet metal)
I like how the drain hole is even slanted - to make the exploit even easier.
@@plpGTR It doesn't necessarily need to be single-function. If they need to have that indentation anyway for ease of manufacturing, then they can arrange the assembly in such a way that it "just so happens" to point downwards so it also functions as a drain hole for accumulated condensation. And _additionally,_ it can serve the extra purpose of being an emergency mechanical bypass for when the lock fails and it needs a way to be opened. I have to wonder what the installation instructions mention; do they specify to position the hole in such a way to make it more cumbersome to enact such a bypass? Are there additional fittings included in the installation kit to block access to the hole while still allowing it to do its drainage job and be available for emergency bypass when needed by removing said fitting?
I'm reminded of when, iirc, an Air Force budgetary committee asked for justification on why a particularly expensive power wrench was needed. The response was that it was a multi-function tool: it could not only tighten bolts, but loosen them as well.
Definitely not a drain hole, otherwise it would not be slanted that way. It's a real life backdoor...
@@plpGTR this metal doesn’t appear to be bent though it would most likely be cast. Meaning the slants were intended and I agree with other users it’s most likely designed as a bypass.
I'd like to take a moment to appreciate that LPL videos are always without cuts, just single-take perfection. What a Legend.
It's a thing in the locksport community. When you're videoing yourself opening a lock, you're not allowed to edit the video to prevent accusations of shenanigans.
@@Alacritousgood point
@@Alacritouspeople still accuse him of faking though
420 likes, not messing that up
not quite true, there's ONE video with a cut in it. but the ice cream lock was a damn funny cut lol
Wow. I expected you were shorting the solenoid. I didn't expect it was going to be nearly as simple as, "I nudged a piece of plastic up."
My thoughts too until I noticed no batteries in the unit and the cable wasn’t connected either
I expected a strong magnet.
You can't tell me they angled that drain hole towards a gap in the housing on accident. That was a backdoor intentionally put in there by the manufacturer. It's not a flaw, it's a feature.
I mean, of course, how else could a locksmith charge $200 for getting into it for them......
you know I'm sort of inclined to agree that its a back door of sorts... that batteries clearly go on the inside of the door, what happens if they are stone dead... sure the lock will warn you the batts are going flat but what if you just don't act on it?
@@yandyyay Those two metal dots on the front towards the bottom are there for you to hold a 9V battery to it. This powers the electronics and allows you to scan your credentials and get inside in the event the internal batteries died. If anything, it is there for if the motor/electronics fails.
@mrgw982 no way that's pretty smart if that's true. I'm sure it's just a pair of lights but meh
I was thinking the same thing.
Schlage: Pick -proof!
LPL: Unfortunately, you've made the very common mistake of making your lock, which leaves it open to the exploit I'm about to explain.
Is that false advertising too?
@@Eduardo_Espinoza it's technically correct, so no
Nobody claimed it was wire-proof...
@@cerdi_99 even if I advertise my brand of wire as a Schlage-Resistant Lockpick?
😅😅😅
Finally picked the file cabinet in my office with a paper clip after watching these videos. Feeling pretty confident lol.
Nice
Schlage Design Team: "He didn't use a pick."
Schlage Marketing Team: "Good as advertised."
Lol
Those would both be marketing and tech support arguments. Design team would mention the no pick excuse but focus on redesigning the labyrinth navigated by the wire. A more fundamentals focused engineer would redesign the motor linkage to not be pushable.
A pick: Object(s) inserted into the internals of a lock and manipulated in a nondestructive manner that allows unauthorized entry.
I see an unpickable lock that was just picked.
@Chris Strizver this is exactly how I would define a lock pick. After all a paper clip is the cliche pick to get out of handcuffs.
Schlage: "Lockpicking Lawyer agrees: this lock is strictly pick and bump proof!"
Reminds me of Cold-FX
Yeah, just like when high carb and sugar junk food is advertised as “fat free.”
They are technically correct, the best kind of correct.
But not hack proof, is it, Schlage?
@@shura0107 beat me to it
a 5 minute LPL vid? and he explained how the bypass worked? this is gold, guys.
5 minute vid only because he had to undo 38 screws 😂
Half the time he showed how an electric screwdriver works :)))
Yeah he doesn't usually include so much screwing around.
I love how this is literally a mechanically unpickable lock except for a small hole in the bottom.
The only thing that's 100% secure is a black hole.
Literal security hole
It’s like the Deathstar.
@@Josh-fh5ox That's actually a good example lmao
The core security flaw is putting the coupling mechanism (and electronics! 😱) on the outside of the door rather than the inside.
not really, you would have to smash it to get at the electronics, any lock can be defeated with enough brute force
You can't put them inside while being compatible with existing installed doors. It has to manage the tail movement from the outside.
@@yandyyay yes but it leaves open the possibility that some non-destructive exploit will be found, as we see in the video here. If the same flaw existed, but was inaccessible from the outside, it wouldn't be a problem.
@@Merennulli Why is it impossible to put the mechanism on the inside? There must be some way to pass the outer handle's movement through to the inside, so that the outer handle actuates the bolt on the inside of the door (if the credentials are correct).
It's hard to explain in words, but I'm thinking of something like: The outer handle is connected to a rod which goes through to the inside; this rod is encased in a hollow cylinder which is coupled to the bolt; the inside handle is directly coupled to the hollow cylinder; the rod is only coupled to the hollow cylinder if the credentials are correct (otherwise it turns freely).
@@Merennulli different tail piece design and have the outside ONLY a credential reader and have the "guts" on the inside and use the existing HOLE as a passthrough for the wiring and have the lock/unlock ONLY on the inside
LPL’s most unneeded line ‘let’s just show you again to prove it wasn’t a fluke.’ Never seen LPL open a lock and think, that was lucky. Keep up the great work. Love watching your videos
some people who are skeptical might
@@taumag Actually he is aware of the fact that too long form content does not do too well currently, so no, padding the video time is not a reason. It's actually to prevent people who might claim he is reshooting the video over and over until he is truely fast just a single time. Doing it a second time in a row with relatively equal speed shows that there is at least some sort of consistency to what he presents in the video.
Yeah, that's because you didn't make one of the locks featured in one of his videos, but hurt butts find a way to soothe the sting and "lucky" is the easiest call when your $500 lock fails to a wire in 5 seconds.
You can see it as the first line of defense against lockmakers that think they are onto something by calling it a fluke
When he puts LOL in the title, you know it’s bad 😂
LPL LOL
It's true but anyways that doesn't cost alarm, sorry Jeanette how are you?
for college dorms, it would prolly be feasible to 3D print a small high-infill insert that fits in the area between the two bottom screw holes that still allows the drain hole work as a drain but blocks access to the mechanism by being braced against the casing
...but most colleges will prolly spend hundreds of thousands to replace the locks and charge students for it 🙃
3D print? no, just a bit of superglue.
@@darwinwins You need that hole, because otherwise it's gonna get damped when the temperature falls.
They should really just change the mold. It's an easy fix, just add a pocket that will block tool insertion, but won't block water.
Yea they wouldn't have put a drain hole unless they found it necessary during testing. Especially if these are mounted on an external door more subject to the elements those electronic components would likely stop functioning correctly.
@@Joe45-91 The case is metal, so when the temperature drops, all the moisture from the air inside is going to condensate on that metal. Without that wall, you'll get a small puddle on the bottom.
The weirdest part is how the "drain hole" is angled in such a way as to help facilitate this exploit.
The cynic in me says this was done on purpose, so that would-be locksmiths could easily sell entry, in case of an emergency. Remember that much of the "physical secuity" world still operates on a "security by obscurity" mindset.
It's not, though. It's just a rectangular hole. LPL feeds the wire in at 45 degrees (corner to corner).
@@koresoteira447 It absolutely is. The hole itself is angled directly towards the spot the wire needs to go to. Watch it again, preferably in a decent resolution.
@@koresoteira447 If you pause the video around 4:35, you can see the cutout is angled directly towards the spot the wire needs to hit. It looks very intentional to me.
There's also a gap in the mechanisms shielding. They covered most of the mechanism to prevent this kind of attack then left a small opening. It's gotta be on purpose
"the more high tech a system is, the more vulnerable it is to a low tech attack" tom baker as dr. who
*Doctor Who
A hole below the mechanism is not high tech
@@carloseddy1005 Yes, that's why it's called a low tech attack.
@@marzipancutter8144 yeah it even gives plus frames (FGC joke)
@@Ren-ps6re nice oki
Since the hole is angled towards the exploit region, I wonder if it's actually intentionally there to allow for locksmiths to unlock it in the event of something going wrong, etc. If that's the case, it's no wonder it's marketed towards building managers, since that would be a bigger concern than their tenants getting broken into.
And regardless, for a great many landlords, “Tenants won’t know and can’t do anything about it if they do” will win out over replacing any of these locks.
That was my thought. If you block that hole up so it can’t be picked, what do you do when the electronics fail?
@@hunterjohnston1330 you drill a hole and buy a new one
Just easier engineering. Easier to work with and ignore gravity than it is to go against it. Drain hole at the bottom and electirc parts above. just makes sense from a design perspective
@@xpusostomos Or replace the batteries. If it is a hardware failure, just simply take the screws out and replace it with another.
I just tried it on my apartment lock and it worked, it is a slightly different model and outdated, but that is literally terrifying. I had no idea what I was doing but I did it on the first try
My entire apartment building has the same locks. That is so frustrating.
The “drain hole” is actually angled towards the mechanism that unlocks it so it’s easier to get something in there to unlock it.
After this video, price for the whole lock kit is going to be on sale for $19.99 and infomercials at 2 am 😂🤣
Bahahahaha
But wait! There's More! Buy 1 lock, get a second lock FREE! and as a special TV only offer if you call in the next 125 minutes, get a free bottle of epoxy seal to stop the exploit for only a $1.99. But wait! There's More!...
...Tiny super fast legalese text scroll with a fast voice over explaining shipping costs and no liability if the lock is picked....
you know, doesn't sound like a drain hole at all.
More like an intentional backdoor for security experts or those that glow in the dark.
Nah, anyone who knows will just fill the hole with epoxy, and anyone who doesn’t know wouldn’t be replacing/selling these.
I would assume because of the shape of the hole and the slit that allows the wire to reach the inner part that is is actually a "feature" that allows the lock to be opened with a special tool e.g. when the battery is empty or the key card broken.
The biggest flaw of all is that the part that does the unlocking is on the outside. On an electronic lock, in a good design, it should always be on the inside.
Yep. The bypass isn't hard to prevent (at least, you're trying to prevent non-destructive entry easy) but there's no fix for vulnerable components like that.
Yep. The turning lever on the outside should be on a shaft all the way through the door that free spins, then put that solenoid inside
Drill a hole to the right of the drain hole (as seen from the rear). Put as long of a machine screw as you can in, with a nut on the inside, to prevent a wire from going straight to the opening. Test it; Add nuts if necessary.
@@troy3456789 Now it can be opened with a bit of wire + a screwdriver. Easiest option is to just fill that void with tightly packed steel wool. It'll still drain water so you don't end up with a short after months or years outside collecting water, but it'll block that wire so long as it's packed tightly enough
@@vakieh4381 I'm thinking the nut on the inside will turn if you use a screwdriver from the outside. A nylock (locking nut) would help too. The idea is to cause the wire to divert to the wrong angle. (Hole drilled on the side of where the wire goes up; not blocking the important drain hole)
Steel wool seems messy and won't stop a stiff wire like what he used in my opinion.
I'm pretty sure if you complain to building management, some poor maintenance person will have to go around with a tube of JB Weld putty and just put a little bit in every drain.
I'd imagine the warranty claims department at Schlage is going to be unimpressed with you for this 😂
EDIT
People, drilling a hole, chipping it away, etc is a destructive entry and leaves evidence. That's beyond the scope. Is blocking the drain hole like I suggested ideal? No. But the correct solution is to dismount every latch and do an internal modification, which is probably more than most maintenance departments want to get into
That would work great
@@SunriseLAW If the inside is all plugged up, a thin piece of wire is going to take a very long time to chip through it all. Alternatively, jb weld a small piece of metal like a grub screw at just the right spot.
5-minute epoxy a small metal strip on the inside of the thing, permanently covering/blocking the drain hole.
@@SunriseLAW You weren't using it right then. I've repaired all sorts of parts with jb weld. o2 bungs on an exhaust manifold only worked temporarily, but the fix still last 2-3 months when I allowed the plug to cure for only 5-6 hrs. On key fobs, lamp bases in industrial settings, workshop fixes, autobody repairs etc the stuff cures so consistently to the substrate that getting them to separate is basically impossible.
Which works till water makes its way in and submerge the electronics.
A better solution would to install it so that it's recessed and flush mounted in the wall, preventing all access to the drain plug while also allowing it to drain if need be
Years ago, I heard a security expert say “you’re never safe. If someone wants to do you harm, they can. Most people just don’t have people wanting to harm them.” Locked doors just give the illusion of safety.
I've sold lockpicks to international hackers who get worried that my credit card reader is bugged, while I worry that all these crafty people will steal stuff. Turns out, 99.999% of people are basically honest and decent, and if they weren't society would crumble in a day
LPL's dedication to doing his videos in one take is impressive. It is especially obvious in this video.
I agree! I have for a long time been impressed at how very professional his videos are.
Of course, one would hope that a court lawyer who practised in commercial litigation would be able to do a clear, professional presentation in "one take"; judges aren't impressed if a court lawyer asks for a do-over!
That's just laziness lol
His dedication to refuse to learn video editing. Respect, too complicated for me as well. Also makes it harder to accuse him of faking stuff I suppose
@@GigaBoost It's to maintain integrity, or at the very least, prove without a shadow of a doubt that he isn't manipulating any of the locks when he reviews them. It's also why he often picks locks multiple times, to prove his success wasn't a fluke. The benefit of being allowed to be lazy is just a nice bonus.
@@stinkyballsmeller Agreed
LPL: "Hey, honey, how's college going?"
LPD: "Great, dad! They just upgraded our dorm locks to these fancy new smart locks."
LPL: "I'll be right there 😐"
Lol, Lock Picking Daughter
😆
Lmao
Nice assumption LPL's partner is in College
@@conArtistAUS His partner is his daughter? Dude, you watch too much porno.
Never in ten years would I have ever thought I'd watch lockpick vids for fun yet here we are.
You type alright for a ten year old.
@@phattjohnson Bro he didnt say he was ten he said never in ten years, so ten years into the future 😭
Move on to penetrative testing videos and Deviant Ollum teaching you how to fold fitted sheets 😂😊
@@Jake420 Yes, it is, hes saying that he would have never thought from now till ten years in the future he'd watch lockpick videos for fun but he is now. Also the sobbing emoji doesnt mean Im actually crying, its used in this context as a way to say "bro what is this/what are you saying/bruh"
Drain hole could be angled different like a zig zag or snake shape and also put some fine mesh at each turn of the zig zag so that water still escapes but provides difficulty to sneak a wire through multiple zig zag layers. Also don’t angle the “drain hole” close to the unlocking mechanism.
I agree. Honestly if they still want the drain hole to work as a mechanical bypass they could improve the security by zigzagging the hole as you've mentioned and maybe they could have some sort of mechanism with pins that slide up and down so when you put an object of the right shape in, it'll activate the mechanism in case of electronic failure.
I think they kept it this way because if water actually does get in, the lock itself would fail. And the need for people to get into their own house is much more important than the need to keep others out.
I install locks a couple dozen times a year. I always point people to LPL if they ask for an opinion on any given lock.
The lock of horror as they watch the video is amazing.
If you look at the drain hole, it's even angled towards the screw post where the wire travels up into the plastic block.
That's why it looks more like a backdoor than a design flaw to me.
What do they say if you're locked out?
exactly. it is made to have this way of opening.
You might actually be right. But honestly, that only makes it worse.
It is most definitely an intended backdoor, not a design flaw.
Holy crap! This one is huge. I can see lawsuits if Schlage doesn't bring out a retrofit kit to block where the wire slips between the guard and the screw post. Wow, when a company like Schlage misses such an obvious exploit for years on such a critical product, Master Lock doesn't look so bad any longer.
All I can think of is some guy with Autocad running designing that housing and being told "there needs to be a drain hole" and then saying "but then someone can stick a piece of metal up there and bypass the lock". And an argument ensuing in which the engineer tries to take a stand, but the product manager is like "overruled" and then the guy just says fuck it and goes to lunch.
Imagine the anonymous tipper was master lock themselves lol
It is on purpose. The slot is even diagonal to facilitate the pathway. It is just a hidden bypass feature, like CD players have lol.
@@rmyers99
Nah, it's the engineerings fault in this case. The stamped steel piece is supposed to be shielding against this exploit (after they forgot that in the casting), but they chose the one manufacturing technique that wouldn't actually work because the radius they need for the srew hole leaves this one hole through which LPL could fit the wire. Had this shield been made any other way (molded plastic for example) it would have worked. Should instead have made the actuator that sees machanical load out of steel.
@@BL-yj2wp I'll certainly never bet against cost reduction; but my assumption was that the plastic component was plastic, in surroundings that were mostly metallic, because that's one way to keep otherwise trivial magnetic manipulation from being an issue.
Probably not a coincidence that plastic, rather than one of the more expensive nonferrous metals, was chosen for the job; but still a questionable place for steel.
This reminds me of when I lived in military barracks on active duty. We all had key card locks with metal security doors with metal frames. Soldiers would lose their keys daily, and require a master key from battalion to open them. I got locked out one day and decided to get in on my own. Turned out the door frame was so cheap, I could use a long 20mm wrench, and wedge it in-between the door and frame, and bend the frame far enough to pop the door open.
Gotta love when it takes him INFINITELY longer to disassemble the lock than to just open it even without a key
🗿
Infinitely longer? You still sitting there watching this 3 minute video?
@@chrstfer2452 yes in fact i am
How the heck did you put that big blue picture in your comment 😮🤯
@@KingMoronProductionsI think RUclips has custom emotes for channel members.
YOu know what i love from your videos? They have it all. All the content, the "introduction", the "development" and the "conclusion". You show all it has to be showed. AND THEY ONLY LAST FOR 5 MINUTES. Thats F awesome.
Sorry about your attention span.
@@the_kombinator I am sorry for your lack in reading and understanding skills. Hara is clearly impressed how much content and story the LPL gets into only 5 minutes (which I agree with is impressive). Hara does not state anywhere a maximum attention span of minutes nor is that implied.
@@SibrenFetteri like this
If you look closely to that drain hole, it has an angle pointing directly on that plastic block, as if it WAS designed for that exact purpose of bypassing lock mechanism.
Several other commenters have pointed out it was probably added as a bypass for when the electronic systems fail
Now the secret has been leaked!
it was.
@@zuttoaragi8349 - Most likely, but it is a very terrible bypass system when even the most unskilled thief can easily learn this, or get it to open accidentally by a little prodding. Much better to just add a good secondary bypass keyhole if the electronic shorted.
@@inisipisTV Oh fully agreed. I'm only explaining it, not at all defending it. I'm certain there's a better way to make a bypass.
As soon as you said RFID, I knew exactly what the flaws was gonna be. I used to be the guy tasked with throwing out old or unsold opened product at a hardware store and I saw stuff like this all the time. RFID and electronic locks almost ALWAYS have a physical, mechanical weakness.
Anyone who works in the tech industry hates these, too, because they're *also* flawed from the cybersecurity POV. Anything that uses the credentials of a smart device to open it is a thing that can be cheesed through by compromising the device, not to mention issues with the actual computer security aboard the lock.
@@XCodes "Locks" indeed.
@@dado__ mechanical locks can also be cheesed if you have access to the device. unfortunately, physical keys can't receive software updates.
@@made.online2149 You can't cheese a mechanical lock from miles away, tho, and just like how Master Lock never updates their designs pretty much all smart locks never get security updates.
@@dado__There's no point opening a lock from a mile away though. You still need to be there to get inside.
Actually terrifying there's attacks this easy on so many locks you might be "protected" by. Incredibly eye-opening.
Security is almost always an illusion. It keeps honest people honest, but a determined invader will get in somehow.
Repent to Jesus Christ “It always protects, always trusts, always hopes, always perseveres.”
1 Corinthians 13:7 NIV
H
@@repentandbelieveinJesusChrist3 Wrong message you are sending. People do not react to demands of penance, they react more to messages of love. Stop talking from high position, and start talking from equal status.
@@ElBandito The message is entirely unrelated to the video. This is a spambot "spreading" the coder's beliefs however they can where it's unwanted and unneeded. I don't think it matters that they could be more efficient in how they spam.
@@repentandbelieveinJesusChrist3 no
I picked my first lock last night because of your channel! I should add, it was one of my locks, not a neighbor's door. :)
Yeah, sure Mark. We're sending the FBI right over. You probably tore off that mattress tag too. Federal offenses. You'll be going away for a long time.
😅
As LPL says in some videos, don't pick locks that are in use, as there is some chance you will break it.
(On the other hand, some people like to simply stop using their apartment key and lockpick their way in every day. So really, do what you want.)
@@chaoticneutral6288 Fair criticism. The only lockpicking enthusiast I know does it, no idea if anyone else does.
Me: "Oh, a 5 minute video! Maybe this has something interesting or obscure going on?"
LPL: spends half the video just showing us how to disassemble the lock.
Me: "Well played, sir."
And you know he’s not doing it for Ad revenue because he doesn’t put ads on these
ive been a thief for about 2.5 years now and i want to thank you in how much youve helped me throughout these years!
i love it when you upload and each upload gives me more progress in my journey 🙌
My father was a carpenter and was hired to fix a door to a house that was broken into. When he arrived, he found the door with about 4 deadbolt locks still locked, however the thieves had just removed the outer casing and pulled the door, still in it's jambs, right out of the building, set the door and jambs next to the house, and walked in. Your locks are only as good as the jambs in which the door is mounted. Front door jambs need to thick and set into the house frame with large nails, though bolts are better.
You could just take a sawzall to the bolts, or just break a window. Locks just keep honest people honest.
@@edward1927 You could just take a sawsall to the wall next to the door. After all, it;s just some vinyl or aluminum siding, a sheet of OSB or plywood, some 2x4s, and a sheet of drywall. My dad told me a robbery he saw on the news where the burglars used a cordless circular saw and just cut the wall open.
@@vwbug1975 granted that's an issue bricks would solve alas not the way Americans like to build houses
I had a mountain side cell site to work on and the Supra dead bolt had a dead battery on the door. Hinges were outside and just popped the pins and in we go.
Generally speaking, you don't have a lot of thieves showing up to your front door with power tools and looking to saw through the wall for the obvious reason that it's not worth the time, effort, and risk to do something you can accomplish by just kicking the door in.
right at 4:10 where he says "you turn the wire", that wire is passing over a perfectly placed recess in that inner metal bracket. between that and the way the "drain hole" is angled perfectly to feed the wire right where it needs to go, this _has_ to be a deliberate feature not a bug
would it be dumb to assume that its a "secret" way for a lockpicker that specializes in these locks to get it open if the owners lose their credentials to open it?
Exactly what I was thinking. This has to be intended, although they meant it to only be known to locksmiths and security personnel so that they can let people into their apartments. It was definitely not intended to go beyond professionals/intended people.
@@kasper_429 that’s the issue, it’s like having a master code that’s the same for every safe of a particular model. Those out of the loop won’t know but the second information breaks out it’s just free hunting.
@@kasper_429 But that's not how security works.
It takes one person to know the secret to share it maliciously or accidentally and the whole security falls away.
@Kyle White it's also something that looks relatively easy to deduce if you disassemble this lock and look for weaknesses in its design
Imagine LPL checking into a hotel:
Desk clerk - "You are in room 420, let me get your key . . ."
LPL - "That won't be necessary."
He *is* a Lawyer, so he'd always let them give him the key for deniable plausibility
both LPL and mcnally are my favorite lock pickers. I love how "official" and "professional" LPL seems, where-as I love the choas of mcnally destroying masterlocks reputation
In 5 seconds the Schlage Pick Proof lock has precipitously dropped in price and is now on bargain sale.
I'll get several stat! Put a gasket on the mating surfaces, seal up the drain hole, seems like it's still a pretty good lock
@@Spiker985Studios Even if you seal the drain hole it's still a critical design flaw and your seal can be mitigated very quickly and with minimal notice using a dremel most likely.
@@Spiker985Studios Until you realize it probably has about 3 million digital security holes as well...
@@Spiker985Studios just need something inside around the mounting boss in the lower right corner and leave the drain intact
@@deedoubs I mean, most would be thieves are going to be looking for easy targets. I don't know about you, but I don't have an electrical outlet near my front door. The only secure thing to do is to confuse the hell out of would-be thieves - otherwise you're just trying to be marginally more secure than your neighbor.
If they *really* want that stuff, they're just gonna cause damage and nab it anyway
4:09 that security flaw is entirely because that's a stamped piece of metal. I can see that there was clearance made for when the round segment got bent down in the press. If it was a solid piece of material there would be no gap for the wire to fit through.
Jeez. That is insane how bad this exploit is.
One solution would have been to just extend the length of the guard piece so it could be bent 180° at the end to block off the opening left by the screw tab.
@@HarveyDangerLurker it's just a part of the manufacturing process. Stamped parts are cheap when you need hundreds of thousands of them, and regrettably you need clearances built in for it to work.
The whole design is very weak for a 300 dollar product.
One can just drill a little hole at the bottom until they see some plastic shavings and then easily manipulate the lock with any stick that fit through the hole.
@@NicosM51 at that point your leaving evidence that there is tampered with the lock. You might as well smash the door in by then
I was waiting for the mention of the drill/driver: ‘And this drill is part of the Genesis’ set that I sell on Covert Instruments…’
😂
Or the wire.
@@JerryWilliam63 So i'll take this wire that Bosnian Bill and I made...
Lol. This channel is such a treasure trove of ingenious ways people find to pick locks. Even the unpickable ones. 😂
It’s crazy the quality of these brands. I feel safe for not having locks.
That’s what happens when pool of qualified engineers who can design locks keeps shrinking and brands only rely on their legacy brand names to market products to mass consumer.
naked man fears no pickpocket
Locks keep honest people out tbh
@@E1nsty 😂😂😂😂😂
@@E1nsty LEGO bricks though...
100% Pick Proof. Not 100% paperclip proof.
I think if I lived in a large apartment building with these locks, I would be tempted to unlock all the doors and leave them open to get everyone to pressure the management to do something about these locks.
My appartment just switched away from these locks.
Just put a sticky note on each of the locks with a link to this video. A lot easier and less risk of some neighbor not understanding your intentions and calling the police (or worse).
Good way to get shot if you ask me. I'm a locksmith paid to unlock doors, it's smart not to take this skill lightly.
@Merennuli: With the sticky note on the inside of the door.
@@Merennulli A QR code, get with the times.
It’s not a drain whole, because it is sloped in the direction the wire needs to aim. It is a bypass, like the one designed into interior lock sets for bedrooms and bathrooms; so the lock can be breached in case of an emergency or accidental lockout. In the scenarios where this lock would be used, it circumvents lockout due to a dead battery. Likewise, the internal gap next to the screw is intentional. That is where I would block the intrusion, if I preferred to cut a hole in the door or wall when the unit is faulty or the battery dies. What this unit needs is an ability to connect an external power source, like induction with no holes, when the battery dies.
"I can open this in just a few seconds with nothing but a thin piece of wire"
Now we can debate the meaning, but "open using only a thin piece of wire" seems like a decent definition of "picking" to me.
technically it is a bypass tool, not a pick. He didn't pick the lock, he bypassed the credential needs.
I can't explain why I like these videos, other than that I like tech... Where I live in Thailand, I haven't locked my car, house or bike in 20 years. Here there is a community vibe that is way more secure than any lock design.
Lock your doors don't be an idiot
Lucky that you live in a safe area with honest people
Not everybody does, especially in the US, Mexico, and countries further south.
It's like the exhaust port on the Death Star.
I can just now imagine the Schlage CEO furiously spinning around in his tie fighter in the cold vastness of space.
Schlage: It's pick proof!
Also Schlage: Happy Opposite Day!
So something thin but permeable stuffed into that area would theoretically make it a pretty decent lock. Cheese cloth or stainless steel mesh like from a sifter maybe.
Then all you need is something pointy to open it first.
@@KriLL325783 still makes it take double the time and double the tools.
Break two or three tooth picks off in the drain hole may be a quick low cost fix
@@DyslecticAttack That’s still plenty within a reasonable time of attack, won’t do anything
Just put some epoxy to block the slot next to the screw-post where the shim passes. I’d probably use JB Weld for it. The drain hole does serve a purpose and it would be better not to block it.
If the lock is outdoors, you don't want to block that drain hole - just get inside there with some epoxy putty or a little piece of metal and superglue, and block the path from the drain hole to the lifter piece, while leaving the hole open for water to drain out.
Still the issue that the people that have these locks likely aren't allowed to make any changes to them. Covering the drain hole is meh, easy enough to do unnoticed. But applying epoxy without damaging something and still actually sealing the gap would require one to take it off the door and remove the casing of the lock. Neighbors and college dorm mates can and are tattletales. If you have even a busybody, not just people who hate you, you could get in a hell of a lot of trouble for taking it apart.
@@s.colins2050 I was looking at it from the perspective of the owner of the lock - the homeowner, the hotel or institutional maintenance guy, etc. As a tenant / dorm student / hotel guest / etc, yeah, it's probably not a good idea to go taking apart a lock that you're not actually authorized to tamper with.
The idea of not being allowed to change the lock on an apartment you rent with your hard earned money as a private space for yourself is absolutely foreign in my country. But then I remembered that the rental market in the US is dominated by evil corporations.
Can anyone explain to me why we need this drains hole to begin with?
@@pontoancora If the lock is on an exterior door - exposed to weather - any rain water that finds its way into the lock needs to have a way to drain back out again, or else it can cause extensive corrosion inside.
A documentary length LPL video, nice
Was expecting the magnet, but nope it’s worse
@@LHJC10 he did have me in the first half.. I wasn't expected the drainhole exploit.
@@LHJC10 Soon enough, LPL will show us a lock you can either shake to unlock or just turn upside down. It will be made by Master lock obviously.
After watching tons of LPL's clips, Ive come to realize "100% Pick-Proof" actually means that LPL has 100% Proof that the lock can be picked.😏
Technically, was it picked if there is no keyway?
Fill it with solder
At least this one has an easy way to fix is, just weld the drain closed, or at least weld the right side closed so water can still get out while also blocking a wire from reaching the mechanism. Most of the flaws he finds are fundamentally impossible for the average person to fix.
the way the hole is angled in 4:08 makes me believe, that this is actually intended to work that way.. think about the scenario, where the lock is actually not opening due to technical reasons or because the owner lost his/hers access - that hole would make it possible to open up the lock without destroying the whole door.. that being said: I think thats a horrible way to ensure pickability, when its so easy to do and the lock claims to be unpickable
Yup. They purposely added a gap for this to work. It's an easy fix if they really wanted to, just close the damn gap and this bypass is out the window.
@@shapowlow I agree, but then again how would they open up the lock if lets say the chip is malfunctioning or if there is any other technical issue..? They would have to install some sort of mechanical safety mechanism or concede pickabilty entirely, which should be communicated to the customer.
@@Nuurix yup. i hope it's mentioned in the manual that came with the product so the customers have the choice to purposely close the hole if they want to.
We had these all over the one large condo complex I worked at to keep guest out of employee only areas. Sometimes we would find stuff rearranged or missing after spring break groups came through. I'm guessing more than a few people already knew this trick. But truth be told there is no such thing as a Pick-Proof lock. Any lock can be opened if the thief is determined and has enough time. Locks are only there to slow them down.
A lot of the time you only need to wait for someone to come out, nod to them with a straight face, and just walk in as if you're supposed to do that. Not in small places, but the more employees there are (or residents in an apartment building), the less likely they are to say anything.
This seems a very easy problem to solve too. Just change the shape of the drain hole to be 'Z' shaped. I.e. a couple of back and forth returns, and you wouldn't be able to get a wire to trace into the area it needs to be in.
Why does it need a drain hole to begin with?
@@pontoancora The hole on the bottom of a padlock allows water to drain. This prevents the padlock's internal mechanisms from rusting, so they can continue to function properly.
@S H so I assume the water enters the system from above even without any visible opening, right?
Didn't expect that.
@@pontoancora different areas have different weather conditions. Condensation is an issue in many.
@@thekillerbunny It's not a drainhole, it's an intentional backdoor. You can even see how its angled toward the exploit.
This is hilarious. I love this channel so much. Good thing he doesn’t show his face because I’m sure he would get a target on his back. Keep them coming!
I am looking forward to the time, when lock manufacturers are using LPLs brand to scale how secure their locks are and put the rating on the packaging. If it's not LPL approved, it doesn't seem worth buying, or at least factor in they changes he recommends. Very cool. How a hobby like lock picking, turned into a life skill.
Heck the few times it takes an honest effort are massive endorsements! Shows how unlikely a common to slightly skilled thief will pick it. Then again these people are unlikely to have even crude window security tho.
This baby right here's the highest-rated on the market! Took a full 4 minutes 38 seconds!
This must've been an intentional back door into this lock. The drain hole is in perfect alignment for this exploit.
this mans the real mvp, not only showing us what locks are cheap and crappy but showing us why they're crappy and what to look for in a good lock
It appears that just putting a solid block in front of the access area to the right not allowing full reach to the actuator would be sufficient without having to block the drain hole. Glue, a scrap piece of metal, a small ball bearing or anything solid to block the wire would suffice. As always, fantastic display of how the lock works and the flaw LPL.
Finally, a true practical use for hot glue
LPL- See this electronic lock? Can you guess how we open this electronic lock?
Schlage- The key fob, use the key fob!
LPL- That's right, we use the drain hole!
Schlage- *starts having a panic attack*
If I ever own something that I want no one to ever touch, you're the guy i'm going to call.
Wow I am always amazed at how some locks are big and beefy in most areas yet can be defeated buy a piece of wire or a good magnet. I suppose it is very hard to build something that can not be picked or manipulated open especially if you know how it works.
I'm maintenance at 2 multi unit apartment buildings. Only had to drill one lock out so far. But I'm trying this on the FE410F model. It seems to be next to impossible to accomplish. But I'm going to be trying it out. Problem is that you have limited range of motion when it's mounted. And the backplate is recessed a little bit.
Only other problem with these locks is the plunger part that moves the plastic locking mechanism. If the building is settling, it effects the doors most noticeably at this part because there is friction between the door jamb and the barrel bolt. Forcing it to work weakens the metal ring the plunger is attached to and it eventually fails.
The worst thing is that this is clearly a feature meant to be opened from that hole if the batteries are death, so probably not going to be changed by the lock creators any time soon.
It looks like the lock has a spot on the front to hold a 9V battery to the lock to power it in a dead situation, that is probably coupled with an installer RFID fob that is default and doesn't require registering. (For which cloning that fob might be another vector)
@@xaosflux Maybe then it is there incase the motor fails?
@@mrgw98 Nothing a grinder won't solve.
No it's clearly a drain hole. They expect the lock may get mounted on the outside of a exterior door. The PCB is clearly potted to help with water resistance. The hole in the bottom is to drain the water so that the lock mechanisms don't get eaten up by water too fast.
@@MessyPointedBlob Somebody in another comment pointed out the drain hole is *angled* to make this exploit easier.
I enjoyed the video! It came in handy when a tenant didn’t let us know about the low battery status and tried it. Worked like a charm
The drain hole is where the credibility of the company flows out.
They even angled the drain hole towards the sneaky corner.
Yeah like they did it on purpose.
we are not fools
that's a backdoor for sure
It's not as if water cares if the hole is angled or not - and a simple barrier over the drain hole and under the plastic bit (so that any water would flow around it) could have prevented this...
Im kinda hesitant to call this a design flaw. The way that it works makes me think Schlage left it there on purpose,just that they were also hoping people aren't aware of it
I agree, but are there locksmiths out there that will divulge this security flaw?
Yes. It is on purpose. The slot is even angled to help with the exploit.
it's a battery powered lock with no mechanical back up, this is a backdoor. If this wasn't there and the batteries died you'd be locked out.
@@riku861 I thought the same thing at first, but if you look at the outer face of the lock, you see there's two little rubber circles below the doorknob, indicating under those are terminals to supply power in case of dead batteries.
@@juukyll That should work assuming the unit retains all its passkey programming with a dead battery. Those terminals should also be protected with a diode, should the polarity be applied in reverse by accident, or if someone mischievous presses a 9v battery to the terminals.
I just love the way you find these flaws in so called "security locks". I always find it so hard to believe that the people who design these things don't realize that these potential problems exist, (or just don't care). You'd think with videos like yours on You Tube these manufacturers would do everything possible to make sure their locks can't be bypassed with such ease, making them look incompetent and unprofessional.
You'd think by "everything possible" they at least mean they'd give it to a locksmith or two to play with for even a few minutes.
Based on my (admittedly limited) experience in mechanical trades, there's a good chance these flaws WERE brought up, but it was deemed either a bureaucratic and/or logistical nightmare to retool the facility that makes the locks. Mass stupidity doesn't tend to be the result of one key stupid person, so much as friction between multiple people who would otherwise be considered competent.
Almost every lock is designed to keep honest people from entry, not the one that want to break in. Just as pharma industry want to keep people sick to sell them more drugs.
Thank you for your educational and security awareness content. I have been avoiding going wireless at home for other reasons and this just fortifies my reasoning. Guess still the best option is to have a couple of high-end locks just so it would take longer for the intruders to get in.
Blocking the drain hole would be a bad idea on exterior doors exposed to weather. Drain holes are there for a reason. A better solution would be to place a barrier(maybe some jb weld) in the void space next to the right screw hole to block access to the push plate.
Seems like the quick fix for Schlage here would be to just whip up a small metal plate that slips into the base of the lock body there, and would be held in place with a couple of bent tabs that fit over the screw holes.
Or fire the lock developer🤣
The problem is that for maintenance reasons the electronics can't be fully waterproofed, and this lock will be out in the rain.
It’s unbelievable how simple some of these “fancy” locks are to get past….
It seems like electronic are the worst because they need a physical bypass that's different from their main security features, so they're usually skimped on.
I mean this is an extremely specific attack on a lock someone studied for vulnerabilities.
That's because they engineered the bypass in, purposely. (that ain't no drain hole)
I bought a similar kee pad version that uses the same mechanism earlier today. Upon opening it up I was happy to see that Schlage had included a sturdy piece of plastic that blocks the drain hole while still allowing water to get out. Now I leave it to you to find a way around this new feature.
Someone actually wrote an article on this video, and I found it and died laughing. They were like "This guy is amazing! I literally don't believe in locks anymore." And I wanted to comment "you must be new", but I don't comment on online journal articles of dubious origin, no matter how good they are.
Ooh, link?
@@Megan4434 mm, I'd have to look for it, it was a rando article nearly a month or two ago
Google generated content.
Most locks are just fine because the vast majority of criminals use brute force. It's far more important to use a good quality deadbolt (grade 1 or 2) WITH reinforced strike AND 3" screws (hinges too). Otherwise most doors can be easily be kicked in. And never open your door to strangers - no exceptions. Also consider an alarm system.
I've found so many locks w/ bypasses like this but I've always used spring steel strips I find on the road from the street sweepers.... It's easily filed and cut so it's pretty easy to make a shim or pick w/ it, I bet it would work great on this. 😉👍
Those were my second set of picks :D First was a slowly ground on a grinding wheel hacksaw blade so I didn't lose the temper... and a ground down allen wrench for a tension wrench.... and about 20 minutes reading about how locks worked in the Encyclopedia Britannica in the late 70's :D
I've cut pieces of flat sewer rod, it's thin and springy and with a set of files it's easy to make a basic set of picks. I used shrink tubing for the handles. Works like a charm
I'm a big fan of Schlage for run of the mill locks. But only their old style mechanical locks because I'm also a big fan of the "KISS" principle ;) I see a separate issue with that little plastic piece. I live in a VERY cold part of the country where winters are not at all kind to flimsy little plastic parts. They've got a spring coupler between the solenoid and the plastic piece but just the same I wonder what some -30F weather will do to that plastic when the solenoid activates. You may need to know that bypass to get into your own property.
Nothin is unpickable when you're smart enough
Two days ago I was in a hotel that had these locks.I did note the drain-hole on the bottom, but didn't have the time or inclination to try to pick it. Bravo!
LOL... you're lying
A recall for a few tens thousands of these locks would be very interesting to see.
Every time he goes, "Let's do it again to show it's not a fluke" I do a literal LOL. I think he should sell that on a T-Shirt.
Great work! Put that in your “electronic locks” playlist. I suspect others are similar.
Looks very fixable to me, both by the user and by the manufacturer, either by replacing that metal shield, or by adding one small part that will obstruct the path. It doesn't even need to completely block the drain hole.
I was thinking angling the drain hole in the opposite direction would do the trick.
yea, I'd slip that metal back plate, that's held with the Torx screws, in a vice, and bend the bottom just enough so anything put into the drain hole would have to do some kind of reach around to make it in.
You could also re-engineer the plastic "clutch" for the knob with a stiffer spring or something else to prevent a slight push from a wire being enough to pop it into place.
Basicly just need a little drill to open up that drain hole if its blocked.
@@martinlatvian5538 Good luck getting it at the right angle when it's installed
There might also be a second way in. On the circuit board, just to the left of the connector for the solenoid in the upper right corner, there looks to be a small relay. Assuming that's the case, and if the enclosure isn't ferrous metal, a magnet could potentially close that relay and energize the solenoid. Might be worth a try.
He calls it a motor, might not be a solenoid
That doesn't look like a relay. I believe what you're looking at is a capacitor (the yellow color gives it away, though it's hard to tell through the silicone(?) they've encased it in).
not a relay, tantalum capacitor (polarized type), the micro/PIC in the lock is probably using a MOSFET/SCR for energising what looks to be a solenoid/linear actuator on the mechanism to engage the handle
I would comfortably say it's an STM32 considering theres a 10 pin JTAG header which is unpopulated, can just about make out the atmel logo on the package
@@buttholesurfer2000 that doesn't make sense? Atmel doesn't make STM32.