Thank you so much for this video, My jeep has been off the road for over a year waiting on a new wcm that has become unavailable, I found this video and tried it on my one and it worked! I now have my vehicle back operational with no cost! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
Thank you ! Having problems with my 2012 Jeep Wrangler . Battery is good ,alternator is good,will not start sometimes. Will give this a try. Otherwise looking at expensive dealer fix.
If you have a windows laptop or tablet, look into the appcar fca program. It is about 50 bucks and requires a wifi dongle for another 15 bucks or so. But it is a dealership level diagnostic program that can shows you live readings from all modules and if the wcm is seeing the fob. It can also program new keys.
Hi Jacob. I have a 2009 JK Rubicon. Lately there have been some electrical glitches all showing up at once. #1 When I turn the key to start, there is about a 1-second hesitation before the startup process begins. Same 1-second when turning the key off, a 1-second hesitation before the motor and dash lights turn off. #2 The factory radio clock resets to 12:00 randomly about every 3 days. #3 Also about every 3 days... 4 dash lights will illuminate at the same time (BRAKE, ESP, ABS, and traction control). But the Jeep still runs fine. I've seen some blog comments online that say all of this might be the WCM. What are your thoughts? Thanks in advance!
Good video on the WCM. I am having a random extended crank issue (~5 seconds or longer) that I have been chasing down for a long time. Fuel pressure and spark are good so I have been focusing on electrical. Have you ever seen a crank issue related to the wcm contacts or signal with the key? I have no other symptoms and it starts fine with remote start.
No, the rfid system is only active for about 3 seconds after the key is inserted into the ignition barrel. During that time it is looking for the signal from the key. It either sees the signal or it doesn’t and they turns off that part of the system. If this were your issue, the system would not see your key and you would get the red dot immobilizer light in the dash and a wrong key code.
Thanks for any ideas. It is a 2010 Wrangler Automatic with 90K miles. I already replaced the ignition switch, ignition coil, cam and crank sensors which all seem to be related to crank issues. It also has a new fuel pump and the fuel pump relay works fine. I bought a fuel relay bypass and still had the issue so I removed it. I've been checking grounds and connections and everything looks good, the engine bay is clean. I do get the red dot when you put the key in and then it goes off. I was thinking that maybe it wasn't recognizing the key "fast" enough possibly at certain times. It mainly does this after hot and sitting. I have never been able to figure out why it starts right immediately after I turn the key back off then back to run again.
@@ht9565 ok, yeah the red dot will come on as a test when you put the key in but it will go off after a second or so. What you are describing sounds like leaking injectors to me.
Thanks Jacob. I thought that too, but after I thought about it more, it made no sense to me. My fuel trims are perfect (close to zero). Wouldn't I have rich trims if the injectors were leaking? Also, it starts right up after cycling the key on to off then on again, and I don't see how that would happen if the injector was leaking. Also, it starts right up with remote start, if the injector was leaking it should still be flooded and do a long crank. Even if the pressure was not holding, I don't understand how it suddenly builds by cycling the key.
I have an 2005 dodge Durango, recently the key stopped unlocking/ locking the doors, when I put the key into my door to unlock it the security system is set off and my lights start blinking (like how they do when I push the panic button, minus the horn). I can still start the truck (despite the fact that it shouldn’t) and drive it but the panic lights won’t turn off unless I disconnect the batteries. I tried to get a new key connected by a locksmith but it wouldn’t work. I’m stumped at this point, everyone says take it to the dealer but I know they’ll charge an arm and a leg
Hi Jacob, I have quick question you could help me maybe diagnose. I have a 2018 jeep wrangler jk and I will start the car and drives fine after I park it sometimes it will start up fine again and other times will start up and then shut off immediately. Any idea had to have towed back to house twice now
Honestly I really would need to get a diagnostic scan. Appcar fca is a great diagnostic program for a windows tablet or laptop. It is a dealership level tool for around 50 bucks plus the 15-20 dollar obd2 dongle.
Jacob I've got a dead in the water 2006 dodge grand caravan. Parasitic drain, after 4 hours brand new battery is dead. Starter, alternator good. My mechanic friend replaced ignition, since car thought it was still on when key taken out (the driver door also pinged). Had a very knowledgeable locksmith analyze, couldn't fix it. Car will not crank. Van went from mechanic to dealer and both say I need to replace 2006 wcm module which even the dealer couldn't source. Now before new ignition was installed, car would start with a battery jump. Any advice is welcome, I'm disabled and use the van for my manual wheelchair. Thanks 😊
There are a few online Chrysler parts suppliers that may have the wcm if you are sure that’s what it needs. Is the little red dot light lit up on the dash with the key in the ignition?
@@call_me_danger my carer took me to the dealership today. They and my mechanic friend explained the wcm module was sourced from a junkyard and cannot be reprogrammed since it's not the original part. Dodge discontinued the wcm. Dealer won't even install a (skreem) bypass solution since they only work "factory issued" parts...it seems I need to find a brand new 2006 wcm module. Ha! I've contacted autotech and a few others, but cannot get anyone on the phone. Those few computer part places state you've got to send them the part with the VIN number but if it's not the original part belonging to my van, and the dealer cannot reprogram/flush the current wcm either, I may be out of luck. Thanks so much for your reply btw. Let me know if you can think of another solution! 😉
@@crippyandkaatje you can send your pcm to a good locksmith shop or other good general automotive electronics shop and they can turn off the skreem feature. But doing that will remove the security and possibly the rke functions. I will have a look around for a new wcm for you.
@@call_me_danger appreciate it so much! Trouble is the very good locksmith couldn't reset it. And places like autotech don't respond to phonecalls. Too bad I can't post a picture, but basically the wcm/skreem module has a ring around it and a small rectangular box with label 295AF made by Siemens. If you send me a FB message to my name in my YT account name you can contact me. Thanks again!
@@call_me_danger would you happen to know where on the board the RKE antenna is? Fighting an intermittent problem with the fobs not locking/unlocking (fobs all checked ok$
@@mikeneal8225 there are 2 different wcm modules, 1 is equipped with an external antenna for remote start equipped vehicles which will likely be a blue connector on the wcm case. the second is the normal wcm with an internal antenna right on the circuit board,
@@call_me_danger the other kind not listed in this video I’m guessing there’s a desoldering process not as easy than you switch the board add paste and resolder wires to board wait for harden than done ✅
I’ll be driving down the freeway and my Jeep will shut off for like half a second and then just resume operation like literally nothing happened. But sometimes it will stay shut off where I will have to pull over to the emergency lane and pull out IOD fuse for the wireless control module (it’s M13 on my Jeep) and leave it out for a few minutes (2-3 min) and plug the fuse back in and it usually fixes the issue (temporarily, for like the next two to three days where it happens again)
I’m not sure what that has to do with the immobilizer loop, as it is only active for the first 3-5 seconds after the the key is inserted and turned to the on position to read the chip, and then is not active until the vehicle is shut of and the process is restarted. What year is your Jeep? On the early magnum equipped vehicles there was an ignition coil issue that would produce systems like you are stating. and on the later ngc versions with the tipmgw module, the tipm had connection issues that kinda sound like your issues. Do you have access to any dealership level diagnostic tools? Depending on the model year, I would recommend looking at getting appcar or alpha obd.
I had a slight different experience as the antenna pins was solded to the circuit board. Not paying attention I ripped off the very tiny antenna wires. I had to untangle the whole roll of wire and redo it, and then re-connect the wires. Shit didn't work anyway. So I have ordered a new one through a workshop to which I have to tow the car to...
And what year and model car were you working with? I ask because it sounds like you may have been working with the skim or skreem module and not a wcm?
Hi Jacob, I have a 05 WH grand cherokee limited here in Australia that out of nowhere stopped starting. Came back to the car, started and ran for 3 seconds or so then turned off, did this around 3-4 times and now won't crank at all? Local dealer belives it's a steering lock module and WCM issue but can no longer buy new parts. Any suggestions? Currently is sitting in the service department car park.
yes, that sounds exactly like a wcm/elv failure. if you cannot source a new evl (steering lock module. this is a pretty easy fix. please join this chrysler 300 group and I can help you fix it though there facebook.com/groups/50194137363
@@call_me_danger Hi Jacob, I know this reply is six months old, however I am having the exact issue described above, also in a Wh in Australia. I have the code 2254 for internal failure of the Elv, I have tried an emulator but it didn't work, I have also purchased a used wcm of a later revision (same part number) and tried doing the ecm replaced procedure to no avail. At this stage I have ordered a new Elv, however this morning whilst trying different things in desperation, I changed the country code (which I have done before to get access to different options) but this time I set it to rest of the world, now I am unable to reverse this, which seems to be related to it being rotw rather than another country. I don't mind having to replace the bcm/ngc with a used Australian one, but if you could share your thoughts on the elv emulator/replacement I would really appreciate it. Cheers Glenn
@@glennmoore5880 okay so, I am not too sure about the row settings without actually plugging in and checking it out. But, with the elv failure, that also kills the wcm and both will need replaced with new virgin units. Now you can go about this in 2 ways. 1. You can find new units from your country and install them, when doing the install you must leave the elv unplugged until after you program the wcm and at least one new key. Then plug in the new elv. Or 2. Buy a new American wcm and matching keys, unplug and remove the elv from the column. Then install the new wcm and program it and the keys. There will be no need for the elv. You can even do that with a row wcm and just never plug an elv into it. If the wcm never has an elv plugged into, it will not know that it needs one. It only knows to look for an elv after the elv is initially plugged in, then the wcm will require the elv after that. So on the euro cars we just delete the elv and pair a new wcm and all is good to go.
@@call_me_danger Hey Jacob, thanks heaps for the reply. The wcm is no longer available as a new part, is there any way to use a used one? I'm not sure what you mean by a row part? Is that a part out of a wreck? I've applied to join the 300c facebook group in hopes of fixing this.
Hi. if your not pulling your hair out answering these questions, I would assume that could cause the low tire red dot dash dance also as your driving? Thats what mine is doing and I think I would just add a dab of solder and be done to see what happens.
@@call_me_danger - Yea, its really weird. My low tire pressure light comes on then then my red dot a half second behind. Sometimes they come on at the exact same time and then go off at diff times. The on and off is always random but they follow each other with about a max of 3 second on/off delays. 2010 Avenger fwiw.
@@johndillian1018 that is sounds either a tpms module in the wheel arch is bad or the connectors are full of water or corroded. It could be a bad wcm but the immobilizer is only actually active for the first 3-5 seconds after the key is inserted/turned. After that you could literally rip the key out and throw it away and the car would continue to run. I have had issues like you described in several 05-07 chargers and Chrysler 300’s and they use the same wcm module as the avengers. The issue is that the immobilizer circuit powers through the same point as the tpms, and the rpm connectors would get wet/dirty/corroded and cause intermittent air pressure and immobilizer warnings. And if the problem happened just before you try to start the car, the car would not start. So I would probably clean out and reseal the tpms connectors.
Would that cause the remote to stop working the door locks and even the red button that makes the horn honk? I don't know what the Deal is with this thing. My ignition switch is working, the red wire that powers the ecm is getting power. It won't crank unless I jump the starter by bypassing the relay but here's the really Wierd thing. This has happened twice. The first time it just mysteriously started working again but both times the gas gauge was on E even though there's 1/4 tank or more, the remote won't operate anything even though the door lock switch works even though it started working when it started before. Shortly before all this happened the rear glass quit opening and the dome light doesn't come on when the doors open but does come on with the on switch on the turn signal lever. Not sure if that's related or not but the remote not working and the gas gauge being on E is definitely related. Man I don't know whether to keep trying to fix it or throw holy water on it and yell "the power of Chrysler compels thee demon!"
What year is your car? This sounds kinda like a bad ignition switch or actuator pin. But it also kinda doesn’t. Also kinda sounds like a bad tipm. When you turn the key to start, does it spring back to the run position? Does it kinda seem like the key isn’t turning on the car? Is the red dot light lit up steady on the dash? I think I would want to see the live data for all systems using a Chrysler compatible diagnostic tool like appcar for windows devices or alpha obd for android devices.
@@call_me_danger it's a 2006 jeep liberty 3.7L I had a small breakthrough. I bipassed the auto shut down relay and it started and is drivable but no gauges at all, all lights and warning lights on the cluster stay on, the dome light doesn't come on when the doors open and the car isn't reading the door lock remote. I've replaced the ignition switch and checked the actuator pin and it's fine. It's gotta be a bad relay maybe on the back side of the interior fuse block/body control module or a short somewhere. I just can't find any decent wire diagrams on it to trace where all those circuits meet or where the circuit begins since stupid chrysler built their junk so when one thing goes out everything down the line from it goes out like Christmas lights. I appreciate any help you can offer.
@@nathanhale7444 I believe the 06 jeep has a common issue with the tipm/fcm unit that would cause what you are describing. Try looking up jeep tipm failure
@@call_me_danger I thought only 07 and up liberty had a tipm. I'm not having any issues with windows, lights the fuel pump and other Wierd things. Just the issues I described. Would a bad tipm cause it to act like it out of gas and finally stop cranking altogether but still run when it bypass the auto shut down relay?
@@nathanhale7444 I believe the 07 has the stand alone tipm unit. But the 06 has the tipm/fcm, should look like a fuse box and then have a separate module hooked to the front side of it. Have you tried a new asd relay? What do you have for a live data diagnostic tool?
Здравейте, имам активен код B2204 и колата ми гасне в движение, прочетох, че възможна причина е конфигурация на WCM. Моля за съвет дали това е възможна причина?
to be replaced it needs to be programmed so the shop needs the right tools for that. most generals shops don't take them apart to clean them, they just replace them with new units
@@call_me_danger I'm sorry; I'm new to all of this. My Skim module ring is broken, like ripped in half, so the attenna that sends signals from the key to the ignition cylinder is broken. In theory, can I buy another Skim module and just swap out the board with another skim module with a working ring or antenna?
what the purpose of this ? just for locking and unlocking or more to it my truck died while driving and now nothing is happening passed the key turning and no turn over no fual pump nothing
this is for locking, unlocking and prevents the engine from starting if the correct key is not used to start the vehicle. what year/model is your truck?
Thank you so much for this video, My jeep has been off the road for over a year waiting on a new wcm that has become unavailable, I found this video and tried it on my one and it worked! I now have my vehicle back operational with no cost! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
Thank you ! Having problems with my 2012 Jeep Wrangler . Battery is good ,alternator is good,will not start sometimes. Will give this a try. Otherwise looking at expensive dealer fix.
@Jerry Vest Your jeep sounds more like a tipm issue. Look into “jeep no start tipm”.
If you have a windows laptop or tablet, look into the appcar fca program. It is about 50 bucks and requires a wifi dongle for another 15 bucks or so. But it is a dealership level diagnostic program that can shows you live readings from all modules and if the wcm is seeing the fob. It can also program new keys.
Hi Jacob. I have a 2009 JK Rubicon. Lately there have been some electrical glitches all showing up at once. #1 When I turn the key to start, there is about a 1-second hesitation before the startup process begins. Same 1-second when turning the key off, a 1-second hesitation before the motor and dash lights turn off. #2 The factory radio clock resets to 12:00 randomly about every 3 days. #3 Also about every 3 days... 4 dash lights will illuminate at the same time (BRAKE, ESP, ABS, and traction control). But the Jeep still runs fine. I've seen some blog comments online that say all of this might be the WCM. What are your thoughts? Thanks in advance!
that doesn't really fit with the wcm, the wcm would have nothing to do with the abs/esp sytems or the radio. this sounds like a tipm issue.
Hi Jacob. This issue also prevents locking/unlocking the doors with the keyfob? Thanks from Brazil
No, this only prevents starting the car.
Good video on the WCM. I am having a random extended crank issue (~5 seconds or longer) that I have been chasing down for a long time. Fuel pressure and spark are good so I have been focusing on electrical. Have you ever seen a crank issue related to the wcm contacts or signal with the key? I have no other symptoms and it starts fine with remote start.
No, the rfid system is only active for about 3 seconds after the key is inserted into the ignition barrel. During that time it is looking for the signal from the key. It either sees the signal or it doesn’t and they turns off that part of the system. If this were your issue, the system would not see your key and you would get the red dot immobilizer light in the dash and a wrong key code.
What year and model car do you have? I will have to think about other causes for your symptoms
Thanks for any ideas. It is a 2010 Wrangler Automatic with 90K miles. I already replaced the ignition switch, ignition coil, cam and crank sensors which all seem to be related to crank issues. It also has a new fuel pump and the fuel pump relay works fine. I bought a fuel relay bypass and still had the issue so I removed it. I've been checking grounds and connections and everything looks good, the engine bay is clean. I do get the red dot when you put the key in and then it goes off. I was thinking that maybe it wasn't recognizing the key "fast" enough possibly at certain times. It mainly does this after hot and sitting. I have never been able to figure out why it starts right immediately after I turn the key back off then back to run again.
@@ht9565 ok, yeah the red dot will come on as a test when you put the key in but it will go off after a second or so. What you are describing sounds like leaking injectors to me.
Thanks Jacob. I thought that too, but after I thought about it more, it made no sense to me. My fuel trims are perfect (close to zero). Wouldn't I have rich trims if the injectors were leaking? Also, it starts right up after cycling the key on to off then on again, and I don't see how that would happen if the injector was leaking. Also, it starts right up with remote start, if the injector was leaking it should still be flooded and do a long crank. Even if the pressure was not holding, I don't understand how it suddenly builds by cycling the key.
I have an 2005 dodge Durango, recently the key stopped unlocking/ locking the doors, when I put the key into my door to unlock it the security system is set off and my lights start blinking (like how they do when I push the panic button, minus the horn). I can still start the truck (despite the fact that it shouldn’t) and drive it but the panic lights won’t turn off unless I disconnect the batteries. I tried to get a new key connected by a locksmith but it wouldn’t work. I’m stumped at this point, everyone says take it to the dealer but I know they’ll charge an arm and a leg
Hi Jacob, I have quick question you could help me maybe diagnose. I have a 2018 jeep wrangler jk and I will start the car and drives fine after I park it sometimes it will start up fine again and other times will start up and then shut off immediately. Any idea had to have towed back to house twice now
Honestly I really would need to get a diagnostic scan. Appcar fca is a great diagnostic program for a windows tablet or laptop. It is a dealership level tool for around 50 bucks plus the 15-20 dollar obd2 dongle.
Jacob I've got a dead in the water 2006 dodge grand caravan. Parasitic drain, after 4 hours brand new battery is dead. Starter, alternator good. My mechanic friend replaced ignition, since car thought it was still on when key taken out (the driver door also pinged). Had a very knowledgeable locksmith analyze, couldn't fix it. Car will not crank. Van went from mechanic to dealer and both say I need to replace 2006 wcm module which even the dealer couldn't source. Now before new ignition was installed, car would start with a battery jump. Any advice is welcome, I'm disabled and use the van for my manual wheelchair. Thanks 😊
There are a few online Chrysler parts suppliers that may have the wcm if you are sure that’s what it needs. Is the little red dot light lit up on the dash with the key in the ignition?
@@call_me_danger my carer took me to the dealership today. They and my mechanic friend explained the wcm module was sourced from a junkyard and cannot be reprogrammed since it's not the original part. Dodge discontinued the wcm. Dealer won't even install a (skreem) bypass solution since they only work "factory issued" parts...it seems I need to find a brand new 2006 wcm module. Ha! I've contacted autotech and a few others, but cannot get anyone on the phone. Those few computer part places state you've got to send them the part with the VIN number but if it's not the original part belonging to my van, and the dealer cannot reprogram/flush the current wcm either, I may be out of luck. Thanks so much for your reply btw. Let me know if you can think of another solution! 😉
@@crippyandkaatje you can send your pcm to a good locksmith shop or other good general automotive electronics shop and they can turn off the skreem feature. But doing that will remove the security and possibly the rke functions. I will have a look around for a new wcm for you.
@@crippyandkaatje
www.mopardiscountedparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-immobilizer-module-4727295ah?c=Zz1lbGVjdHJpY2FsJnM9bW9kdWxlcyZsPTImbj1TZWFyY2ggUmVzdWx0cyZhPWRvZGdlJm89Y2FyYXZhbiZ5PTIwMDYmdD1zeHQmZT0zLTNsLXY2LWdhcw%3D%3D
@@call_me_danger appreciate it so much! Trouble is the very good locksmith couldn't reset it. And places like autotech don't respond to phonecalls. Too bad I can't post a picture, but basically the wcm/skreem module has a ring around it and a small rectangular box with label 295AF made by Siemens. If you send me a FB message to my name in my YT account name you can contact me. Thanks again!
Do you have any idea how to extend the range of the keyless entry? Are the 2 pins in this video the same for SKIM and RKE?
The rke uses a separate antenna on the board. Not really sure how to extend its range
@@call_me_danger would you happen to know where on the board the RKE antenna is? Fighting an intermittent problem with the fobs not locking/unlocking (fobs all checked ok$
@@mikeneal8225 there are 2 different wcm modules, 1 is equipped with an external antenna for remote start equipped vehicles which will likely be a blue connector on the wcm case. the second is the normal wcm with an internal antenna right on the circuit board,
@@call_me_danger the other kind not listed in this video I’m guessing there’s a desoldering process not as easy than you switch the board add paste and resolder wires to board wait for harden than done ✅
I’ll be driving down the freeway and my Jeep will shut off for like half a second and then just resume operation like literally nothing happened. But sometimes it will stay shut off where I will have to pull over to the emergency lane and pull out IOD fuse for the wireless control module (it’s M13 on my Jeep) and leave it out for a few minutes (2-3 min) and plug the fuse back in and it usually fixes the issue (temporarily, for like the next two to three days where it happens again)
I’m not sure what that has to do with the immobilizer loop, as it is only active for the first 3-5 seconds after the the key is inserted and turned to the on position to read the chip, and then is not active until the vehicle is shut of and the process is restarted. What year is your Jeep? On the early magnum equipped vehicles there was an ignition coil issue that would produce systems like you are stating. and on the later ngc versions with the tipmgw module, the tipm had connection issues that kinda sound like your issues. Do you have access to any dealership level diagnostic tools? Depending on the model year, I would recommend looking at getting appcar or alpha obd.
@@call_me_danger 2013 wrangler.
I’ll be taking it to a buddy who does all kind of electrical work on vehicles. I’ll check out appcar
@@adanmagana2017 ok, with the 13 wrangler I would have your buddy seriously take a look at the tipm. I would place a small wager that is the problem.
What are some of the issues that would cause before cleaning the holes in re installing the wcm? Can it cause the key not to turn?
This would not effect how the key turns. This only reads the rfid chip in the key.
@@call_me_danger Thank you.
I had a slight different experience as the antenna pins was solded to the circuit board. Not paying attention I ripped off the very tiny antenna wires. I had to untangle the whole roll of wire and redo it, and then re-connect the wires. Shit didn't work anyway. So I have ordered a new one through a workshop to which I have to tow the car to...
And what year and model car were you working with? I ask because it sounds like you may have been working with the skim or skreem module and not a wcm?
Hi Jacob, I have a 05 WH grand cherokee limited here in Australia that out of nowhere stopped starting. Came back to the car, started and ran for 3 seconds or so then turned off, did this around 3-4 times and now won't crank at all? Local dealer belives it's a steering lock module and WCM issue but can no longer buy new parts. Any suggestions? Currently is sitting in the service department car park.
yes, that sounds exactly like a wcm/elv failure. if you cannot source a new evl (steering lock module. this is a pretty easy fix. please join this chrysler 300 group and I can help you fix it though there facebook.com/groups/50194137363
When you insert the key into the wcm, does the steering lock release? If not, is it stuck in the locked or unlocked position?
@@call_me_danger Hi Jacob, I know this reply is six months old, however I am having the exact issue described above, also in a Wh in Australia. I have the code 2254 for internal failure of the Elv, I have tried an emulator but it didn't work, I have also purchased a used wcm of a later revision (same part number) and tried doing the ecm replaced procedure to no avail. At this stage I have ordered a new Elv, however this morning whilst trying different things in desperation, I changed the country code (which I have done before to get access to different options) but this time I set it to rest of the world, now I am unable to reverse this, which seems to be related to it being rotw rather than another country. I don't mind having to replace the bcm/ngc with a used Australian one, but if you could share your thoughts on the elv emulator/replacement I would really appreciate it. Cheers Glenn
@@glennmoore5880 okay so, I am not too sure about the row settings without actually plugging in and checking it out. But, with the elv failure, that also kills the wcm and both will need replaced with new virgin units. Now you can go about this in 2 ways. 1. You can find new units from your country and install them, when doing the install you must leave the elv unplugged until after you program the wcm and at least one new key. Then plug in the new elv. Or 2. Buy a new American wcm and matching keys, unplug and remove the elv from the column. Then install the new wcm and program it and the keys. There will be no need for the elv. You can even do that with a row wcm and just never plug an elv into it. If the wcm never has an elv plugged into, it will not know that it needs one. It only knows to look for an elv after the elv is initially plugged in, then the wcm will require the elv after that. So on the euro cars we just delete the elv and pair a new wcm and all is good to go.
@@call_me_danger Hey Jacob, thanks heaps for the reply. The wcm is no longer available as a new part, is there any way to use a used one? I'm not sure what you mean by a row part? Is that a part out of a wreck? I've applied to join the 300c facebook group in hopes of fixing this.
Hi. if your not pulling your hair out answering these questions, I would assume that could cause the low tire red dot dash dance also as your driving? Thats what mine is doing and I think I would just add a dab of solder and be done to see what happens.
No, this would not cause the low tire warning light.
@@call_me_danger - Odd!? They both come on the same time at random or when I pound around the ign key area.
@@johndillian1018 you may have a different model of wcm or a different failure happening
@@call_me_danger - Yea, its really weird. My low tire pressure light comes on then then my red dot a half second behind. Sometimes they come on at the exact same time and then go off at diff times. The on and off is always random but they follow each other with about a max of 3 second on/off delays. 2010 Avenger fwiw.
@@johndillian1018 that is sounds either a tpms module in the wheel arch is bad or the connectors are full of water or corroded. It could be a bad wcm but the immobilizer is only actually active for the first 3-5 seconds after the key is inserted/turned. After that you could literally rip the key out and throw it away and the car would continue to run. I have had issues like you described in several 05-07 chargers and Chrysler 300’s and they use the same wcm module as the avengers. The issue is that the immobilizer circuit powers through the same point as the tpms, and the rpm connectors would get wet/dirty/corroded and cause intermittent air pressure and immobilizer warnings. And if the problem happened just before you try to start the car, the car would not start. So I would probably clean out and reseal the tpms connectors.
Where is it located on a 2015 challenger?
The 2015 challenger uses a different system and doesn’t have one of these units. The 2015 challenger uses the rf hub system.
Would that cause the remote to stop working the door locks and even the red button that makes the horn honk? I don't know what the Deal is with this thing. My ignition switch is working, the red wire that powers the ecm is getting power. It won't crank unless I jump the starter by bypassing the relay but here's the really Wierd thing. This has happened twice. The first time it just mysteriously started working again but both times the gas gauge was on E even though there's 1/4 tank or more, the remote won't operate anything even though the door lock switch works even though it started working when it started before. Shortly before all this happened the rear glass quit opening and the dome light doesn't come on when the doors open but does come on with the on switch on the turn signal lever. Not sure if that's related or not but the remote not working and the gas gauge being on E is definitely related. Man I don't know whether to keep trying to fix it or throw holy water on it and yell "the power of Chrysler compels thee demon!"
What year is your car? This sounds kinda like a bad ignition switch or actuator pin. But it also kinda doesn’t. Also kinda sounds like a bad tipm. When you turn the key to start, does it spring back to the run position? Does it kinda seem like the key isn’t turning on the car? Is the red dot light lit up steady on the dash? I think I would want to see the live data for all systems using a Chrysler compatible diagnostic tool like appcar for windows devices or alpha obd for android devices.
@@call_me_danger it's a 2006 jeep liberty 3.7L I had a small breakthrough. I bipassed the auto shut down relay and it started and is drivable but no gauges at all, all lights and warning lights on the cluster stay on, the dome light doesn't come on when the doors open and the car isn't reading the door lock remote. I've replaced the ignition switch and checked the actuator pin and it's fine. It's gotta be a bad relay maybe on the back side of the interior fuse block/body control module or a short somewhere. I just can't find any decent wire diagrams on it to trace where all those circuits meet or where the circuit begins since stupid chrysler built their junk so when one thing goes out everything down the line from it goes out like Christmas lights. I appreciate any help you can offer.
@@nathanhale7444 I believe the 06 jeep has a common issue with the tipm/fcm unit that would cause what you are describing. Try looking up jeep tipm failure
@@call_me_danger I thought only 07 and up liberty had a tipm. I'm not having any issues with windows, lights the fuel pump and other Wierd things. Just the issues I described. Would a bad tipm cause it to act like it out of gas and finally stop cranking altogether but still run when it bypass the auto shut down relay?
@@nathanhale7444 I believe the 07 has the stand alone tipm unit. But the 06 has the tipm/fcm, should look like a fuse box and then have a separate module hooked to the front side of it. Have you tried a new asd relay? What do you have for a live data diagnostic tool?
can solder be added for a better connection?
I don’t see why not.
culd u PLEZ help mi wit mine?? 😫
Здравейте, имам активен код B2204 и колата ми гасне в движение, прочетох, че възможна причина е конфигурация на WCM. Моля за съвет дали това е възможна причина?
Ето в Dodge Dart?
2 get the (wcm) clean'd or replaced du u hav 2 hav a mechanic that handles electric or any Certified mechanic can do it
to be replaced it needs to be programmed so the shop needs the right tools for that. most generals shops don't take them apart to clean them, they just replace them with new units
thnkz 4 that, nw du u thnk the 1 I all ready hav cn b reboot'd?
Where is this located
Right at the ignition key cylinder
I broke that circle part, is there anything I can do?
Without actually seeing it, I can’t really give any recommendations. But it is likely time for a new one.
@@call_me_danger I'm sorry; I'm new to all of this. My Skim module ring is broken, like ripped in half, so the attenna that sends signals from the key to the ignition cylinder is broken. In theory, can I buy another Skim module and just swap out the board with another skim module with a working ring or antenna?
ring/attenna
@@OO-el8ek you can possibly swap over the antenna/ring, but the mother board is programmed to the vehicle it came in.
what the purpose of this ? just for locking and unlocking or more to it my truck died while driving and now nothing is happening passed the key turning and no turn over no fual pump nothing
this is for locking, unlocking and prevents the engine from starting if the correct key is not used to start the vehicle. what year/model is your truck?