Thank you so much for sharing this video. I now feel comfortable replacing my own thermostat on my own 1998 Ford Explorer. With 230,000 miles on the car. It makes for a difficult decision. To keep paying a lot of money for these types of repairs to be done by others. But, you've made it so simple to understand, in the whole process. I have confidence that I can do it myself. Again, thank you for taking so much of your own time to try and help out others. Bless you. :)
A tip to viewers watching the battery disconnect - don't do what this guy does. 1) Don't use pliers, and 2) disconnect the _negative_ terminal. Only the negative ever needs to be removed unless you are replacing the battery, and then always remove negative first, and replace positive first when re-installing.
Thank you for the video. The instructions were thorough and easily to follow. You really know what you are doing. Why would anyone give this video a thumbs down. Makes no sense.
ok cool man! thanks for that essential information because the mechanic yesterday required me to buy both housings and a new gasket. Gasket is def a buy. i have NO heat.
Hi Pamela thank you. no I am not, as a kid I always felt like the other kids knew more and had more than me. I would get a kick out of creating projects and toys from junk and the kids would like my toys better.
I got a question. I put the new thermostat into the car. Works fine, goes up to normal temperature and stays there. The only problem was when it reached operating temp. it would squirt coolant out everywhere. You could see where it was coming from. I didn't think much of it until I looked at the old thermostat and found a gasket on it (I had to watch your video again to notice it). Would this be the cause of it doing that?
+ZekeComa hey Zeke it's been awhile when l had that truck l remember mine did the same thing. I had to go to the junkyard and get a gasket off the same year Ford and it stopped the leak, that was strange but it worked for me. l still can't figure out why the new gasket didn't work.
And it will work that way unless that bolt under the plenum breaks like mine did. Then you have to remove the upper and lower plenum, the hoses and replace the lower thermostat housing. The whole kit is around $30.00 from Amazon with free shipping. Once I figured out HOW to remove the plenum parts the job took a couple of hours. After that I realized it's easier and better to replace it all anyway.
Diversity2, I have a 1998 Ford Explorer Sport with 4.0 V6 SOHC. The check engine light came on. I took the truck to O'Reilly's and they hooked up the scanner. A fault code appeared stating "coolant temp low open loop". The salesman indicated that I needed to replace the temperature sensor. When I was watching your video, the sensor is the one directly in back of the thermostat. What is the best way to remove this sensor? I do not want to break the housing. Also, my temperature gauge in the truck does not move. I get luke warm heat. How do you check to see if the thermostat is working correctly? The thermostat has never been replaced. Engine has 191,000 miles on it. Should I also replace the other sensor for the gauge? I welcome your answers. Thank you Terry
+Carlos Rios hey Carlos how you, you do not need to drain the anti-freeze I just do not like spilling it, if the housing is fine I would not change it, some do.
I have a 2001 Ford Escape keeps on overheating keeps throwing water from where you fill it up to the raidiator. Water pump looks fine fans are working was told it could be the thermostat could that be the issue?
When having issues with overheating, Replacing the thermostat is the best first step. It’s a very cheap part and easy to replace. If that doesn’t solve the problem then move on to other possible causes.
@@charliethegreat2012 I know this is 2 yrs old but you replied to a 5 yr old comment... it isn't cheap or easy, the housing on mine is new but need's smoke stack replaced,one "mechanic" want's to replace the new housing ( about 300$) then labor cost, other's want to do the same,or simply don't show up when promised. Some of us are female and widow's 70ish .. not easy for us... have a wonderful day !
+diversity2 ok. However, I mentioned that to him yesterday and he said it was impossible since the firewall hose of the heater core were both hot. I think he is truly lost with heater issues. lol ...tomorrow i will take it to a business that deals with ac and heater, radiators...
+diversity2 ok so i took it to an electrician and he discovered that it was the Temperature door Actuator that was not letting hot air flow. $65 part. He had to take the entire compartment out. . .about 1.5 hr. Thanks again for sharing ur knowledge man.
+wafrederick That's good to know. I went to buy a thermostat yesterday and was offered two options...the fail-safe and the conventional. The fail-safe was about $16 and the regular one was $5. I choose the latter. While he was ringing it up, I asked what features the other thermostat has and why is it so much more expensive? He explained that when it fails, it will fail in the more preferred "open" position. And that's what you get for an extra $11, plus that much more tax! I felt good about my purchase. And even better after reading your comment.
So simple and not forcing us to buy $100 tshirts with his name on them. Thank you, sir.
Welcome.
Thank you so much for sharing this video. I now feel comfortable replacing my own thermostat on my own 1998 Ford Explorer. With 230,000 miles on the car. It makes for a difficult decision. To keep paying a lot of money for these types of repairs to be done by others. But, you've made it so simple to understand, in the whole process. I have confidence that I can do it myself. Again, thank you for taking so much of your own time to try and help out others. Bless you. :)
A tip to viewers watching the battery disconnect - don't do what this guy does. 1) Don't use pliers, and 2) disconnect the _negative_ terminal. Only the negative ever needs to be removed unless you are replacing the battery, and then always remove negative first, and replace positive first when re-installing.
alachabre Thank you alachabre we are all learning thanks for the info
Thank you for the video. The instructions were thorough and easily to follow.
You really know what you are doing.
Why would anyone give this video a thumbs down. Makes no sense.
welcome
I just to replace mine!! Thank you for the help kind sir
Welcome, take your time, you can do it.
Thank you so much for the video! Just what I needed to watch for my 98 Explorer..
John Chapman welcome John
Thank you David, Blessing to you also.
You really saved the day! Thank you for the guide!
Stay blessed 😁
Thanks. same to you.
ok cool man! thanks for that essential information because the mechanic yesterday required me to buy both housings and a new gasket. Gasket is def a buy. i have NO heat.
Excellent video thank you very much
@@fabianmacias848 welcome
Thank you
Excellent friend! Regards from México..
Angel Om thanks
you are a genius, sir
Hi Pamela thank you. no I am not, as a kid I always felt like the other kids knew more and had more than me. I would get a kick out of creating projects and toys from junk and the kids would like my toys better.
Thank you for the video. Looks like an easy fix.
welcome
I got a question. I put the new thermostat into the car. Works fine, goes up to normal temperature and stays there. The only problem was when it reached operating temp. it would squirt coolant out everywhere. You could see where it was coming from. I didn't think much of it until I looked at the old thermostat and found a gasket on it (I had to watch your video again to notice it). Would this be the cause of it doing that?
+ZekeComa hey Zeke it's been awhile when l had that truck l remember mine did the same thing. I had to go to the junkyard and get a gasket off the same year Ford and it stopped the leak, that was strange but it worked for me. l still can't figure out why the new gasket didn't work.
Good video, by the way you are removing "Bolts" not Screws. Have a nice day...
thank you Mark, thanks for the info.
And it will work that way unless that bolt under the plenum breaks like mine did. Then you have to remove the upper and lower plenum, the hoses and replace the lower thermostat housing. The whole kit is around $30.00 from Amazon with free shipping. Once I figured out HOW to remove the plenum parts the job took a couple of hours. After that I realized it's easier and better to replace it all anyway.
Good stuff!
Diversity2,
I have a 1998 Ford Explorer Sport with 4.0 V6 SOHC. The check engine light came on. I took the truck to O'Reilly's and they hooked up the scanner. A fault code appeared stating "coolant temp low open loop". The salesman indicated that I needed to replace the temperature sensor. When I was watching your video, the sensor is the one directly in back of the thermostat. What is the best way to remove this sensor? I do not want to break the housing. Also, my temperature gauge in the truck does not move. I get luke warm heat. How do you check to see if the thermostat is working correctly? The thermostat has never been replaced. Engine has 191,000 miles on it. Should I also replace the other sensor for the gauge? I welcome your answers.
Thank you
Terry
I would strongly recommend mentioning the size of the motor: for example 4.0 litre or 5.0 litre engine
John Denecke Thanks John 4.0
I got a crazy question, I have a 99 explorer 4.0 sohc my heater core makes a popping sound does that mean it s stopped up or what?
+tommy boldin Hey tommy I have never heard of problem like that. keep searching somebody knows
great vid thank you
Welcome
Quick question... Did you drain the whole radiator?
Hi do u I own how many pounds of pressure the bolts should be tighten too? The bolts for the thermostat housing
jorgeub27 sorry don't understand what you are saying.
diversity2 how tight should the bolts be. I understand the housing is made of plastic I am afraid to overtightened and cracking
jorgeub27 l just tightened the bolts enough . then turned the engine on to check for leaks. If it leaked l turn some more.
diversity2 cool thanks
jorgeub27 welcome
hi there! is it necessary to drain the anti-freeze when replacing a Thermostat? Also, are the upper and lower housing necessary to be replaced?
+Carlos Rios hey Carlos how you, you do not need to drain the anti-freeze I just do not like spilling it, if the housing is fine I would not change it, some do.
I have a 2001 Ford Escape keeps on overheating keeps throwing water from where you fill it up to the raidiator. Water pump looks fine fans are working was told it could be the thermostat could that be the issue?
just replace it and trouble shoot from there.
Jose Angel head gasket
When having issues with overheating, Replacing the thermostat is the best first step. It’s a very cheap part and easy to replace. If that doesn’t solve the problem then move on to other possible causes.
@@charliethegreat2012 I know this is 2 yrs old but you replied to a 5 yr old comment... it isn't cheap or easy, the housing on mine is new but need's smoke stack replaced,one "mechanic" want's to replace the new housing ( about 300$) then labor cost, other's want to do the same,or simply don't show up when promised. Some of us are female and widow's 70ish .. not easy for us... have a wonderful day !
thanks friend!
alucardnightshade welcome
ty bro
+tommy boldin welcome
Can you show a video on how to replace the heat sensor on a 98 Ford explorer
no longer have that truck
Thanks anyway I appreciate
@@terreancebowen4126 welcome
So, I changed the Thermostat along with both housing and I STILL HAVE no HEAT. I think my mechanic has given up DAVID. ANy advice?
+Carlos Rios sounds like a heater core problem
+diversity2 ok. However, I mentioned that to him yesterday and he said it was impossible since the firewall hose of the heater core were both hot. I think he is truly lost with heater issues. lol ...tomorrow i will take it to a business that deals with ac and heater, radiators...
+Carlos Rios OK
+diversity2 also check blower motor resister
+diversity2 ok so i took it to an electrician and he discovered that it was the Temperature door Actuator that was not letting hot air flow. $65 part. He had to take the entire compartment out. . .about 1.5 hr. Thanks again for sharing ur knowledge man.
My 2000 Ford explorer. Xlt. 5.0.falls on it's face ..hard. Sometimes.replaced .throttle body .tps .idle cylanoid.no help.
james yardley my truck was always falling apart. l drove like crazy. got my money out of it.
That was not a throttlebody that was a mass airflow sensor
oops! thanks
oops! thanks
Don't ever buy one of the fail safe thermostats,a pile of junk.I throw them away and replace it with a convential thermostat
Thanks wafrederick for the info.
+wafrederick That's good to know. I went to buy a thermostat yesterday and was offered two options...the fail-safe and the conventional. The fail-safe was about $16 and the regular one was $5. I choose the latter. While he was ringing it up, I asked what features the other thermostat has and why is it so much more expensive? He explained that when it fails, it will fail in the more preferred "open" position. And that's what you get for an extra $11, plus that much more tax! I felt good about my purchase. And even better after reading your comment.
wafrederick fail safe thermos are absolute garbage. Do not EVER buy one.
BULL SHIT! It's SOHC - and it's not 91-2001 but 97-2001
thanks Cober that info came from a Haynes Manual
Wrong you need to replace the whole thermostat housing.
Thanks for your comment carl, I only fix the problem, if I need to take the next step I will, thanks for watching.