🔴 SO EASY! 😲 How to CALIBRATE Your Leica Camera AT HOME! (Leica III)
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- Опубликовано: 9 июн 2024
- Save time and money by knowing how to calibrate a Leica camera (rangefinder calibration)
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Without a doubt… the most useful Y/T video I’ve seen this year. Immediately grabbed my Leica IIIf, found infinity off a bit. Never would have guessed the thing was externally accessible. Now it’s adjusted properly. Out of curiosity, I opened up my AKAMeter external rangefinder, (it was well off at infinity) and after a bit of head scratching, discovered the adjustments for both range and vertical. I use this one with my Nicca IIIF with Voigtländer 25mm f4 (Snapshot). Happy camper… thank you Matt!
Fun fact: just about every older rangefinder camera has externally accessible (although often diabolically hidden) adjustments for the rangefinder alignment - the manufacturers knew they'd need a tuneup every year or two and made it easy for an in-the-know technician to do the job. (Important exceptions: the Zeiss Contax, Ikonta, Contessa, etc., which almost never go out of alignment but need really expert fettling if they do…)
Thanks Brian, very kind! Yes I needed to know myself so did some research and great to find it is so easy.
Thanks James, yes it's so nice that it's easy to do with basic kit
Wow! Super! Like to see you calibrating the rangefinder by yourself! 🙂
Thanks Tobi! Getting there slowly with my camera DIY skills. Still 20yrs behind you! 😆
Enjoyable romp through the old LTM lens Leica’s.
No delicate old cameras were hurt during the filming of this episode !
Ha thanks! Yes much love to the old Leicas! :)
I recently got a Leica IIIa in broken condition for a bargain, and learned a lot about working on LTM Leicas.
The rangefinder is very easy to calibrate as you demonstrated (although you may also need to adjust the vertical alignment via the rotatable circular rangefinder cover window). Like you mentioned, the slow shutter mechanism is more liable to "sticking" than the fast mechanism, like mine was. This is really easy to fix on the IIIa and some similar models, since the entire slow mechanism can be removed as a unit from the bottom with pretty minimal disassembly. A soak in alcohol and minor re-lubricating made it work great. One other thing I noticed was that my fast mechanism hang up a lot at the slower speeds (around 1/30-1/40 of a second or slower) and that this problem just went away by exercising the shutter, so that may be worth trying if a fast mechanism ever seems sticky. One last thing, mine had a catastrophic shutter failure in that the top ribbon of the rear curtain came unglued from the roller, so the rear curtain wasn't tensioning properly and couldn't close properly when fired. This actually wasn't that difficult to glue back on, so I would definitely recommend considering cheaper, damaged LTM Leicas as projects as they aren't nearly as complex internally as Nikons or Ms. I've read smaller shutter holes can be fixed with liquid rubber but I've never tried it as mine didn't have this problem.
Thanks for the insight Ian! I can confirm liquid rubber works. I made a video when I fixed my M3 that way. Pinholes are normally many so it wouldn't help.
Hi Matt, the older LTM cameras sans the slow speeds don't need as much tension on the shutter curtains. Those tensions often aren't sufficient to drive the slow speed escapement. In my opinion, the relaxed shutter of the older cameras is very satisfying.
Thanks Alan! Yes they sound beautiful don't they. My student in Rome immediately noticed the "different sound" to his M's and loved it (and they still seem to work as I did test shots at most speeds..which is great!)
Dang that earlier Leica naming nomenclature is confusing! In part its one of the reasons that I stayed away from earlier Leicas as I struggled to unpick it and didn't want to end up with the "wrong" leica lol. Thanks for the info/upload, appreciated 👍
Ha yes, I'll be honest, even as the guy that tries to help others by sharing Leica info I only just realised I was calling my first black Leica the wrong name all this time! I added the detailed info to the blog post to remind me in years to come if nothing else haha.
Very useful, thanks.
Thanks! I needed to know for myself so having digging on the internet I found an old manual for the 1930s cameras explaining how to do it.
Bravo! No film cameras but I cheer what you have done.
Thanks Sandy! Never to late to get a film camera again ;)
Great video thank you Matt!
Thanks Jon!
Nice video, Matt, as always. But there are two misconceptions which better shouldn't proliferate.
// 1st shutter speeds in LTM-Leicas (without slow times escarpment!): The curtain travels at the same speed at _all_ times! The exposure is regulated by the slit opening. It is pretty much impossible that the fast times are good but the slow times are off. (Vice versa may be a problem, in which case you need to adjust the curtain tension.) For a first check look at B and the slowest speed. If the window fully opens, the first curtain snapping well, and the second follows so slightly more gently -- that's a good sign. The camera should then be good up to 1/200 resp 1/250 (For checking the fastest speeds you need to take off the casing.)
// 2nd rangefinder adjustment at infinity: The focal length doesn't matter at all! Just use any lense with a known good stop at infinity. (Elmar 50s are very reliable at that.) Then do the screwdriver fumbling you describe. If all goes well, near focus should also be alright now. (Near focus may be off though. In that case you need to adjust the roller that touches the lens cam, and then again the inf focus etc.)
Basic maintenance of LTM-Leicas is easy and fun. There are many good videos on RUclips. And, yes, it can save you a lot of money.
Seconding on this guy on #2. The focal length of lens doesn't matter, it won't change anything you see on the viewfinder. It might help if the focusing throw is a bit longer (means you can make more miniscule adjustment) but any lens would do. What could help better tho is magnifying the viewfinder either with an attachment diopter or a magnifying glass to make the focusing more accurate before adjusting the calibration screw. Or best way imho is to stick a translucent tape at the film plane, stick the shutter to bulb so it stays open and calibrate so that the image is sharp. Given the lens is properly calibrated, this final method is by far the best way to calibrate the rangefinder..
@@amaniahnuarTranslucent tape on the film plane trick doesn’t work on old Leicas… non-removable back, y'know!
@@jlwilliams i know :') but that's kinda the best way if possible hahaha
Thanks so much! Ah so it's like my Speed Graphic (which is easy for me to visualise with this slits in the shutter. Yes it's OK at all speeds but I assumed it was a bit off at slow speeds purely from the sound but seemingly not from the images. It lacks the crisp "snap" as likely needs a CLA but works.
For point 2 I kind of get it but disagree also (for how my brain works). As a long time RF user I normally first notice a RF is "off" when I attach a 90 or a fast 50 as the now reduced DOF shows the "weakness"/ misalignment. With this specific camera due to the low magnification it was like trying to check a 28mm at infinity (where it's tough to see the line move as all in focus) with the 50mm but with the 90mm it was instantly obvious. A 50mm works fine for me to check most RF cameras with a 1.5x mag. Thanks for correcting me and keeping us on track. Appreciated.
@@amaniahnuar Translucent tape: Yes, that is a good method -- if done correctly. (And with that method a longer lense will be of definite advantage.) But you need to hit the film plane exactly and it is not easy to judge an image as projected on such a tape. Tolerances are extremely small! Unless you have reason to suspect that other variables are out of spec (e.g. flange distance), the much simpler approach described in the video is reliable and just as good.
Matt, Interesting. I didn't know that there were two Leica IIIG models (older and newer). I only knew of the newer IIIG with the larger viewfinder which was made during the same time period as the M3. I look at Leica equipment every day online and I own several M bodies, but I've never heard of an "older" IIIG (a.k.a. IIIA). I wonder why Leica would have two names for the same camera, i.e. IIIA and IIIG? Seems odd, but very interesting! Regards, Steve (New York)
Thanks, old one is called the iiia by most people but it's only in the literature that you see it was the Model G from the first series in the 1930s.
A good video, but I wouldn't use one of those cheap and nasty all metal screwdrivers like the one you used to adjust the rangefinder (I don't recognise the red and black handled 'driver you used to take out the blanking screw). I've found that they chew up screw heads so I bought a Facom HB.1B set; much better and they won't chew up screws. The set of five is about £35 and you get 0.8, 1.0, 1.2, 1.6, and 2.5mm blades.
Thank you, great tip. The metal one is from a set of watch screwdrivers from many years ago. It was just luck I had one that fitted. The other is from a set I use for my road bikes and has changeable heads to fit most jobs.
cool... always got a tech to calibrate my RFs although they were never out anyway
My M240 was always out (it felt like), and had to go to Germany once a year. Now I can do it myself
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Yeah things vary from one sample to another... depends which Portuguese lady assembled it =)
@@camhyde9701 haha
“…like a Leica…”
Bravo, Matt!!! 😂
Thanks!
Matt, I saw that new AstrHori meter but it looked like the rear protrusion would poke you in the forehead if used on a small camera where the accessory shoe is close to the finder eyepiece, such as an old Leica. How's your forehead holding up with it?
Hey James, yes very well spotted. Did you see the dent in my head. Only joking! I thought the same but the way you hold the camera the meter doesn't touch your head. (It is overly heavy for the size vs. other options though but works).
Thank you for this very interesting, helpful video. So now though I am confused as I had always thought the IIIG was the final screw-mount Barnack with the larger viewfinder and which actually first appeared after the M3. It sounds like there was another IIIG that was equivalent to the IIIA? I wonder if there is a non-confusing way to refer to the final Barnack style camera.
Thanks, yes see the blog link for all models but the IIIG most of us think of is the last one. The Leica III Model G is the IIIa from the 1930s
One way I’ve seen it is to use small letters for the Roman-numeral models (so the last series was the IIIg, and there’s also a Ig with the same chassis but no viewfinder) and capital letters for the letter designated models such as A and B.
@@jlwilliams yes! I have the if, ic, iif..
Excellent 🎉
Thanks Rob! (I was happy to figure out how to do it too!)
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom great tip for the Vintage Leica Society
So glad you made a video like this! I really love your rangefinder content, but videos on upkeep and use like this are an additional nice touch!
Also, I got a Contax II recently (seems you have one), would you say there's calibration/cleaning on it that you'd feel comfortable doing yourself or not? Mine is quite accurate focusing as well as its shutter, but I found the shutter/advance dial to be stiffer than another Contax II I held lately and was wondering if it would be feasibly to try to take some of it apart to clean (but not all the way towards disassembling the shutter). Do you have any suggestions for cleaning the leather on old cameras? If it merely looks worn, flattened, not-grainy, etc?
And do you have any experience with doing cleaning or conditioning for old lenses? I got a 35mm Biogon for it and, well, its rings are just stuck and one element is a bit hazy. Anything like that seem doable for a beginner like me?
Thanks a bunch!
I'll defer to whatever Matt says, but will note that the Contax II is SUPER complicated inside (especially compared to an old Leica, which is basically just a cuckoo clock and a window blind!)
Hi, thanks. Sadly I'm not great with DIY normally so this was a breath of fresh air (so simple). I've not yet dared take a lens to piece (and don't have the kit). I know some lenses are easier than others. I tend not to clean my cameras as such, just be careful if a vintage one not to damage it. Contax IIa I have but still haven't used as the RF was too low magnification (like the camera mentioned today). Yes sorry I would have no clue about these. Kiev 4 are the same if you want a cheap alternative.
Have you found that the LLL 35mm viewfinder is accurate? I feel like it's barely wider than a 50mm. On my m3 I don't even bother with it because it doesn't feel wider than the m3 viewfinder.
Hmm interesting. I've not noticed TBH but I've not compared either. With glasses it will be tight for sure as it's so small but I'll have to look. If it's tight I can use with my 40mm Heliar too.
Seeing people online immediately scream for a CLA for every camera has become a meme to me.
Note that when using a lens to check for infinity, you're relying on that lens' end stop being accurate.
Another more reliable (albeit more difficult) method would be to check focus on the actual film plane by holding the shutter open in bulb, laying a ground glass over the film rails (generally you want to use the two inner ones, not the outer ones, they're not the actual film plane, not sure if Leica cameras even have two sets of rails) and then checking focus that way.
Your best bet would be to use a magnifier loupe, and a very small but bright, distant object. I find that street lights make for a good target, stars might also work.
It's not just useful for rangefinders but any other camera. Even on an SLR, if the mirror stop or ground glass position is off, you may see correct focus in the viewfinder but not actually have it on the film.
An even better way would be to use an autocollimator, but unless you can find a vintage one for cheap it would be quite difficult to make yourself.
Thanks, great info! Thankfully my 90mm worked great and I did selfies with multiple lenses and brands and all were OK (even lenses like a Nikkor SC 50mm f1.4 S Mount via AA adapter). Pleased!
LTM cameras that load film through the bottom plate don’t permit direct access to viewing the film gate.
@@Joe_VanCleave correct 👍🏻
Hi Matt✌
Great video and of course a lot of information👌👌👌must bring my M6 back into action not that it will gather dust. But on the one hand I would also want to sell it, so I'm already thinking hard about it even though it was on my to-do list. Do I regret it? I had the Vogtländer VC II as a light meter, but unfortunately it's gone.
Lg Anderl
Thanks! I have a Leica M6 but I prefer these cool old cameras
Hello Matt, I've got a 1935 Leica II camera (brass body, black paint) and it has built in strap lugs on each side (I'm not sure if that's rare or not, but it's a neat feature). I've got a slight problem with the 1/500th speed. It seems to be incorrect (black band on the edge of the frame every time). Is it a hard procedure to get it fixed ?
Nice! yes the are so many 1-offs in the Leica world where uses asked for mods after. Yes my Leica iiia has done that in the past and my M10 does it currently (at 1/4000). I need to send it to Leica. For film I would just use the other speeds and save money but it will need a CLA to fix the issue. (Band is the shutter in the frame)
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Thanks, I might try my luck with the Leica dealer here in Iceland 🙂
Can easily be fixed. The tension of the curtains aren't matched correctly. You need to either relax the tension of the second (following) curtain or strengthen that of the first (opening) curtain. The former is generally what you try first. Half a turn on the screw is likely to do the trick. The screws are easy to access from the bottom. You could do it "blindly" and check the result on film. The quicker approach is to take off the shell and check speeds by immediate visual inspection. Google for instructions, including various RUclips videos on early Leicas and their clones (e.g. Zorkis: Alin Ciortea -- very good!). Happy repair!
@@atf2940 Thanks, good to know 😉
I do not understand this video. Using a telephoto and an uncoupled viewfinder instead of your Elmar does not make the rangefinder any easier to calibrate. It is a simple process but you have made it more complicated by adding two more variables. Additionally, adjusting calibration screw under the access screw only adjusts the rangefinder in one dimension. To accurately calibrate the camera you need to adjust both the horizontal and vertical plains. The other adjustment is on the outer rangefinder window and can usually be adjusted without removing the trim ring by using a toothpick to turn the adjustable ring underneath.
Thanks Tom, sorry yes this only fixes one direction. Thanks for your tip to adjust the other plain. I’ve never heard this.
Hi. You have a lot of experience, so I have a question. Have you serviced and repaired your Voigtlander lenses ? Do you know where the Voigtlander service center is in Europe ? Thank you for the information.
Hi, no none of my Voigtlander lenses have ever needed attention. Remember most are pretty modern so should be fine for years. See tonight's video which includes 90yr old lenses. Some of those do need a CLA.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Mine definitely needs service because it doesn't focus at infinity. Unfortunately, I can't find a Voigtlander lens service anywhere. I thought you would give me some advice, because you have a lot of experience with these lenses.
@@jarosawzon4272 some Voigtlander lenses go slightly past infinity as designed for digital. If your RF is well calibrated you’ll see it and correct as needed. Don’t assume moving to full lock/ infinity IS infinity on many lenses.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom In my Nokton it's like the opposite situation. He doesn't go to infinity. When you turn the focus ring, it stops at infinity and the two images in the viewfinder are not yet covered. There's just a little bit left to cover them.
There is a collar on the back of the lens that moves when you turn the focus ring. This collar presses against the rangefinder lever. I noticed that in this Nokton, when we set it to infinity, the collar extends beyond the bayonet. In other lenses, set to infinity, this collar is in the same plane as the bayonet.