GCN Tech what are full length outer cables? I was googling the exact same question about drilling holes in my aluminum frame just last week, please let me know
@@chanito_nyc pop into a bike shop with your bike, they'll have a roll of cable outer casing that they will be able to measure and cut a length from for your bike. If you have some proper bike cable cutters you can order lengths of outer casing by the metre or foot online. When cutting the outer get the ends as flat as tidy as possible if you have a dremel or other similar grinder you can do this quite easily. The casing has a Teflon tube running through it so to prep it further before fitting use an pokey thing to open it up a bit and make it easier when you're threading the inner cable through. Oil the inner cable too with a fairly light oil, I actually rub some 15wt synthetic suspension oil into my inners prior to installing which sounds a little bizarre but works really rather well and it stays put. I service suspension forks so I have plenty of it knocking about and it works just as well as any premium lube for this purpose and is way way cheaper. Don't get any funny ideas about putting in on a chain though it would just attract every molecule of dust and dirt to it. SpeedWax is pretty much the best lube for chains and cassettes. Or "Squirt" lubes if you wanna keep things conventional and simple. Don't use spray oil though, the mist can get to brake sufaces and cause the sort of problems you really don't want when you really don't want them. Hope that all helps buddy 👍
Gautier you may well be able to wind your " b screw" in far enough for the jockey wheel to clear the 30t cog on the cassette, i've had sram road mechs working happily with a 32t cassette for sportive riders in the hills of Penwith before. Haven't done it with an etap sram mech but have with many other sram mechs. If your chain has plenty or wear in it, it's worth replacing that at the same time as old chains don't really mesh very well with new cassettes and will accelerate the wear on the new cassette plus you'll need a longer chain if you're broadening the ratio anyway. Top tip, rotate 3 chains the whole drivetrain assembly will work better for longer, there will be videos on youtube regarding this, it's what I myself and others in the know do, it works a treat especially if you're high mileage and or train all weathers 👌
How do y'all figure out a fixed gear? I'm building up a fixed gear bike and I'd like all the opinions I can get. Right now I'm thinking 48 x 20/18 or 46 x something.
I have had to modify the frame on my last 4 drop bar bikes to change the cable routing, add different braze on mounts, or drill and tap a hole on the fork crown for a light mount. I don't know why people are so scared to make small changes like these to a frame especially when it is steel or titanium. It's not like bikes don't already have holes in them so what's the problem with adding a few more with some sense and discretion applied.
Totally agree, I've just got a Ti frame which I intend to drill, grind and fit cable seats. Manufacturers have been doing it since the start, I've seen a lot of frames from my time as mechanic and I can say with confidence they are just tidily machined and painted channels in metal frames, never seen one with an increased thickness at a cable entrance unless it's carbon, even at that I've ridden snapped frames, they are shockingly strong
If I heard correctly your viewer wanted to drill into a titanium frame, good luck with that. I have tried that with 6mm titanium plate. After melting about 6 HSS drills I was half way through, gave up and used stainless steel for the job I was doing. I am sure its possible but I think specialised tools are required.
I don’t think most places you’d drill holes in the frame aren’t 6mm thick. Also, I wouldn’t use hss as those aren’t strong enough imo. Cobalt or carbide would be better. I also wouldn’t do this to a ti bike strictly because you probably would lower the value, but an old steel bike might be alright
I saw a new Litespeed modded to take a rear rack, not sure what they drilled with but drill bit specific cutting fluid is $5 and will make your bit about 500% quicker to grab and start cutting, and it will cut much faster and without damaging the bit. Chris King has gone to Canola oil cutting fluid, not sure if they use additives but I'd think they do, but might be worth a shot if you are in a hurry, even any cooking oil at all might work sort of, and wouldn't be so toxic as cuttin gfluid
I think the fear of drilling holes in frames is a bit exaggerated. Obviously it should be avoided, and arguable in the case of a road bike it would rarely (if ever) be necessary, but as Jon said himself, people have drilled their frames and you don't hear of tubes exploding as a result. Furthermore, frames can break (without drilling), but rarely is it the sort of break where there is a real danger immediately presented to the rider. More often it's a case of, "I should probably stop riding that," or "is the downtube supposed to be rubbing the front wheel like that?" I drilled a single hole in my aluminum mountain bike to fit an internally routed dropper post and after a full season of riding trailers the frame is fine. All is good in moderation.
I was watching the video because I'm contemplating drilling my old frame for internal cable routing, but damn, that hanger extender tip is gold! Thank you.
I just flip my bike onto the workbench with some carpeting to cushion the bars and saddle. Everything is at near perfect working height. The workbench is there anyway and a workstand would take up some room.
I drilled my frame to route the cables internally and ground off the mounts etc. Looked really good, but it was made of Reynolds 501 so big solid steel tubes so no risk of weakening them. If you want I'll swap that frame with the externally routed titanium one and I'll "put up with" the external cables. 😉
About the bike upside down. I had been riding a bike actively about 5 years before I got a maintenance stand. I was so used to upside down bike that I could not figure out how to take the wheel off in the stand.
there are a few things that work much better when the bike is on the floor, or even upside down. there are at least a couple things you DON'T want to do with the bike in the stand. bottom bracket work is one of them.
Additionally, if you are having shifting problems, or trying to run a noise down, putting the bike upside down can make it near impossible to fix. Look at a bike in a normal position when turning the cranks.....even though the rear mech is helping take up the slack in the chain, there is still a slight drop in it from gravity. Turn the bike upside down, now you have the gravity drop in the chain at the "top" of the bike, between the cassette and chainring, not the chainring to rear mech. It can make it to where you will not here the noise you are trying to find, or duplicate the shift problem you are trying to figure out either.
About those derailler extenders. I've got one and on my small cage 105. It now fits a 34 tooth sprocket. Runs fine; BUT the shifting on the smaller cogs is less crisp. Takes longer to switch. Guess it has to do with the larger distance between the guide pulley and the small cog. Cheap, effective but it also has limits!
Un wind your b screw out a bit so that the chain wraps further around the smaller cogs. Normally speaking you'd wind it in to clear the larger cogs but now you have an extender in there that won't be as much of an issue, still check that the top jockey wheel clears the largest cog nicely but have it as unwound as you can get away with and check that the mech body doesn't bash the bottom of the chainstay (I doubt it can if it's sitting lower on the extender mount). That should help sort out the shifting and any slippage you might getting as long as all is straight and adjusted correctly. Hope that helps mate 👍
Already did the above, B screw is at it highest possible position to still fit under the largest sprocket. It works, but less crisp. Specially shifting to smaller cog can take a bit longer.
@@jordyd8916 OK try the H limit screw - unwind a quarter turn see if that helps it over shift a touch. Is there any play in the top jockey wheel because that can affect the crispness of shifting too. A clean and lubed cable will help as well especially on the way down the cogs.
When I redid my Walmart extra bike at the time (gravel/tour bike) I drilled and grinded my frame for internal cable routing and haven't had any problems. Everyone online says that it is bad and not to do it but I would suggest that you do what I did and drill about an 1" to 2" a way from any welds. It all depends on the price of your frame and the little risk you want to involve in drilling your frame.
Question. Can i convert my specialized tarmac SL6 to internal cable route with aero dropbar. Is ther any conversion kit available? Or do somebody done it in the past? Thanks
You should have explained that 9x100 and 10x135 are actually the axle sizes for old style wheels that use skewers (pre-through axle) while the skewers are actually 5mm diameter which is the size of the hole in the 9 and 10mm axles respectively, that's probably why he is confused, because if he looks for 9x100 and 10x135 skewers he is not going to find any indeed...
I would not drill, cause it might be dangerous. Especially for structure if carbon frame. Metal frames are more prone to corrosion around holes. On any frame it will avoid the warranty. But besides the "looks" it do not see why would anyone want to have cables on the inside. They are not so much better protected from elements. If you hit your frame so hard to damage cable, you are most likely going to damage the frame anyway. And if installed improperly cables are gonna make noise inside the frame. The only reason my cables are on the inside is 'cause the frame came like that from factory. It took me a few hours to instal new brakes. If you leave it to mechanic, he is gonna charge you extra. So, you won't save time nor money with internal routing. On top of that, you could make bike more interesting with the choice of a special cable color.
Regarding Fixing a bike upside down. I don't have a service stand, what is your recommended way of removing a rear wheel with the bike upright, without a service stand?
A person 'John Whoever' commented, he drills non internal cable routed frames and brazes (welding form) on a beefy plate I assume around the new drilled hole as support, I do aluminum welding.. sure it will cost me some money to strip the entire frame.. drill holes and weld, or braze, and then powder coat or repaint it.. but if you have the bike already and cannot go to lengths for newer one with this feature, I think drilling a hole done with good bits, precision and take your time will woek great.. If anyone has a idea if this form of adding some metarial to the hole to prevent stress around it will help please share
I have drilled a hole in my mountainbike frame to run a stealth routed dropper seat post. Having done that I would NOT drill a road/cyclocross frame just because the material is so much thinner and they aren't so over-built compared to mtb products.
Hi guys, i have an absolute nightmare doubt. I have a 2000€ budget and can not decide between a carbon bike with 105 or an alloy with ultegra, both with disc brakes. What do you recommend? Thanks a lot, and apologies for my English.
@@noob3k just don't go to close to the solder joint is the weak part of the frame leve 2-3cm from the solder , your frame have already some holes for the water bottle and i never see a frame brake there,
I do love watching this, but I find the whole it's complicated to work on a bike upside down a bit silly. Perfectly logical to not want to scuff your nice cockpit and parts, but anytime you work on any other machine, be it a car, plane, motorcycle, etc, you often work under that vehicle, or at weird angles (upside down in the front seat to get into the back of the dash. Learning how components go together upside down seems like a simple thing to ask of a budding cycling mechanic, and I'd rather flip my bike down on the side of the road while doing simple repairs than try and spend time cutting a stick to make a bike stand or something like that.
Just lay the bike down on the non drive side and you will be fine. Working on a bike upside down screams that you are a rookie, a Fred, or a Newb. Don't do it.
@@jasontrayal718 I'll happily do it, and laugh at all the cycling elitist's who scoff. I just put the bike in whatever position best facilitates working on the task at hand. What am going to do, lay on the ground next to my bike to fidget with a bottom bracket cable guide? Heck no, I'll just flip the bike over so I can see what I'm doing. Anything else, cosmetic reasons aside, is part of that cycling voodoo garbage that keeps new people from enjoying the sport because they're tiptoeing around a bunch of old farts and their traditions and superstitions.
I've got no problem with working on a bike upside down. I used to do it all the time but I eventually bought a stand, and it was the best money I ever spent on a bike tool.
Very disappointed in the answer about drilling frames. It is absolutely possible and no problem - how you you think bike manufacturers do it? i can assure you the rarely put reinforcement in for things like top tube holes for brake cables. I recently did it on a cinelli mash track frame. I want a rear brake ( sorry fixie aficionados) as i am going to run a freewheel. I bought some venge brake cable stops from bike24 for about 6 euro each.I drew a template of the underside of these and then tried it out on a bit of plastic pipe before drilling the frame. Whilst a little nerve wracking, it was pretty easy by drilling small holes and then completing the required shape with some needle files. I put some lacquer to seal the paint, drilled a 3mm hole for the small fixer screws and it looks amazing. I also drilled out the rear bridge so i can fit the rear brakes. This was pretty easy! 6mm on one side and 8mm on the other. I then used steel reinforced epoxy (6 quid from halfords) to beef up the bridge by filling up the inner cavity. I made a couple of carbon brackets for extra strength by buying a sheet of 2mm thick carbon fibre sheet and bolted this on with the brakes. Again, looks really good and is absolutely bomb proof. GCN don’t want you to take them to court but i’m really happy with my project and it’s made the bike way more special to me. Go for it... at your own risk :j
was thinking about drilling hole in my cross bike to route a stealth dropper. Rest of cables are internally routed. I have come to my senses and will route it externally. Frame is stealth black anyway don't think it will look that bad.
#AskGCNTech. Jon first off thanks for doing an awesome job not only entertaining but sharing your knowledge. I recently got an Canyon Endurace bike with the new 105 groupset. I love the groupset but recently I tried the electronic shifting and fell in love with it. Sadly according to the manufacture I can't upgrade to Di2 groupset since the cable holes are too small to fit the cabling/connectors through. I'm not drilling a bigger hole in the frame and don't want to go the etap route either. My question is, do you know if cutting the cables, fitting them through and then resolder it would work? Do you know any other solution?
I've done it. I'm just not a sissy ! Back in the 70's we drilled EVERYTHING. Cranks, brakehandles, stearing column, saddlepost, chainrings, rear derallieur and everything else.
#AskGCNTech Can I use my carbon bike on a direct drive trainer without risking the safety of the frame? My trainer is Elite Turbo Muin B+ (Fluid, not app controlled)
@gnctech Thanks for all of the useful information. I have a question #AskGCNTech. I'm planning a new 1x build. Exact groupset TBC. However the one thing I know is that I really hate the look of most of the current road cranksets (2x and 1x). I would really love to use a set of more classic looking 144BCD track cranks like a DA 7600, omnium or MIche Pistard. I would just exchange the track ring for a Narrow wide. My issue is that I'm worried about BB compatibility and chainline. Do the adapters for press fit to threaded work ok? Even if I get it adapted will the chainline be too narrow for the rear cassette. Most likely build would be with a cube agree frame and sram 10-42 cassette. Although that is flexible.
#AskGCNTech Hello Jon, I would like to know your recommendation for servicing parts that contain carbon components, e.g. Campag rear mech. Usually I would just strip down the components and degrease them in Jizer. However, I suspect this may harm carbon parts. What do you suggest?
Hey, about that hanger extender... I work in a bike shop and i have done it many times, and even fitting 11-42t is possible, of course only oneby. TRY IT
Hi Jon, I’m having issues with my front shifting. When shifting from the large chainring to the small chainring it snaps back under very high tension. Is there something wrong with my shifter? I've installed a new cable and have set the limiting screws but nothing seems to be fixing it... Any advice? #AskGCNTech
Hi GCN! I just purchased a used Zipp 404 and 808 from a friend. After installing on my bike I did a few turns of the crank to make sure everything was smooth and felt a substantial vibration almost like the wheel is out of balance. With deep section wheels do I need to balance the wheel to remove the vibration or once I get on the road is it something I won't even notice? #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech Hello and thank you for the great tips. I recently bought a cabon frame from eBay, and I was trying to fixed a few knicks and chips on the frame, but I noticed that was some kind of super thin film over the clear coat (not to be confused with chain clear protector). For a moment, I thought it was the clear coat that was peeling off, but oddly it flakes off. When I use some alcohol to clean it, then it woud disolve to a sticky gue stuff. My suspicion is that it had a very thick coat of wax, and it dried up. Do you think it is wax or a different type of clear super think coating? Do people wax their bikes? Do you recommend waxing the bike after cleaning?
#askgcntech assuming the limit screws and tension are set properly so the chain doesn't fall off is there any reason that 3x shifters and fd (sora model) could not be used with a 2x crankset? Thank you!
#AskGCNTech What's the difference between road calipers and mtb calipers? I have Force cx1 hydraulic brake in a gravel bike that I use off-road and I'm not very happy with the brake performance, Could I replace the calipers for a sram MTB pair like a code R?
Hi Jon , I have a triban 500 gravel touring bike with Shimano Sora groupset and aluminium 6061 alloy .However it has external cable routing . Can I drill the frame for an internal cable routing . Will it be Good for my frame? Thank you #AskGCNTech
Check out spray.bike. Don't need to remove the existing paint but a slight roughen up with some smooth sandpaper will allow the new paint to stick better.
sounds like a good idea to drill a hole in your carbon frame :) I certainly wouldn't mess with titanium, they aren't as strong as people think they are.
Hi, my wife has a Specialized Ruby Elite Disc from 2016. The BB is 386Evo, (FSA). I was thinking of swapping it to SRAM Rival, but cannot see 386Evo specific. What can I use? This BB thing i just confusing... Also, any idea of how wide tyres it can fit? Cannot find info on it... In general, I'm looking for upgrades on this bike, and/or make it more gravel friendly :) #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech got an old orange crush frame, but can't work out how to attach the cables as there are only pop rivets along the frame where I thought the cable should run any ideas ??
#AskGCNTech Early 9 speed Campag cassettes (pre 2000) have 26mm lockrings. Is it possible to change the cassette body to later 10 speed (or any alternative really) that has a more standard 27mm lockring? Also where did you get a 11-36 tooth Campag cassette? The biggest I have found is a Miche 12-29. Cheers Dave
#askgcntech A bit taboo, I know, but my grandfather wants me to work on his bike and he has a triple chainring. How do I go about indexing/aligning it?
hey average indian, these people talk about road bikes, and your hero sprint is nowehere near close to the sophistication road bikes have. Go ask your local mechanic
#askgcntech Hi gcn, I’m swapping my Mavic Ksyrium Elite wheels over to my 10spd campagnolo veloce bike, got the new freehub installed, how can I tell if it needs a spacer on before I install the cassette?
#AskGCNTech Hi guys, I've recently been involved in a crash where my alloy rear wheel has been made quite out of true (around 1cm +/-), how do I know whether I need a new rim or if I can just re-true it? I have a power tap hub fitted so an entire new wheel won't be happening. Thanks, Flynn
#AskGCNTech I have internally routed cabled bikes but they are external at the front before they go in to the down tube or top tube. The externally routed cables rattle against the the head tube and has started to chip the paint how can I stop this?
#ASKGCNTECH I'm missing a screw of my Campagnolo Delta Breaks! It obviously is 3mm grub screw! I've looked everywhere to find one but sadly couldn't! So I decided to make my self one, by cutting a "normal" 3mm screw to the right length and also a gap on top of it so to imitate the 3,5 Imbus hole, which would have been there at the original. But still does not work! I'm was already tightening it 2 NM more than the original and the cable still sliped! What can I do? (Apologies for the bad writing skill)
Great Q&A Jon! Answered my thought about the drilling of tubes for internal routing. Doesn't seem like a big deal, but manufacturers do create the frames to their specs and any alterations could be catastrophic, keep up the great work!
Dave Patton depends on the nature of the tubes but you’re pretty much talking nonsense. Unless it is paper then a tube won’t collapse with a hole drilled for a brake cable.
Well, unless you're working for a bicycle manufacturer or are on par with Jon's expertise I take your words at face value, which indeed seems to be none. Thanks anyhow!
The derailleur extender works but you will need a longer chain. Problem there is you have issues when using 11 sprocket on the small ring the chain is too long and the bigger sprocket (30/32) on the big ring does not work with the shorter chain. Tried the same thing and it just does not work as it was made to. Better buy the wifli and sell the old shirt cage on eBay
For the Crux. Wasn’t 2015 the first of the scs wheels? If so the spacing is different. Officially you’re supposed to use an scs hub - I think it’s only hope that make aftermarket hubs and unfortunately you can now only get them in black or from Specialized themselves. I’m wondering if that’s why the bike shops aren’t able to give you a qr. That being said, it might’ve been 2016.
If it’s scs then you need to swap the mech hanger. On the Diverge it’s Specialized part number 9890-4227 I assume it’s the same part for the crux but ask your bike shop.
#AskGCNTech Jon, I have a pair of giant PR-2 disc for my training wheels. The local shop says that the freewheel is wearing out and will need to be replaced soon, however giant doesn’t sell replacements. What can I do without buying new wheels? Great show.
#AskGCNTech Hi guys! I have a one year old bike. I'm planning to use it for commuting and want to fit some PERMANENT mudguards. The thing is that it doesn't have any eyelets. Can I craft a metal piece that fits onto the quick release so that I can attach them ?
#AskGCNtech when building a custom disc wheelset, can you use a rim brake rim on a disc hub or will the forces produced by the braking power of discs destroy the rim ? Thanks
I have rebuilt cheap rim brake eheel with disc hubs, they are worn half way and survived 90kg of me trashing it for 500miles, and doing wheelie stops from time to time. Main thing is 3 cross lacing, but you probably know that already
#askgcntech changing down front ring from big to small under load is causing chain to come off, time for a new chain or derailleur adjustment? A quick back pedal seems to sort it thankfully, so not a full off (or indeed a fall off!)
#AskGCNTech hi there tech masters, I’m planing on buying a crankset power meter, and therefore swapping my ultegra R8000 52/36 from my carbon bike to my 105 bike. The 105 currently runs a 50/34 compact crankset, so what kind of adjustments or adaptation am I facing for the front derailleur and/or chain? Thanks, and keep up the good work
I think before sharing some ridiculous thing like reducing safety of the tube when drilled...you should really do some reading about metals and it strengt properties and if drilling changing anything or not.
Mr. Cannings....Tried to get a 30 cassette on my Scott Foil with Red Etap by taking your advice and trying an extender from Wolf Tooth. Shifting was doo doo afterward and I had to give up the fight. Thought maybe extender was machined a bit off (bent/crooked?) although for a great company like WT that seemed unlikely. 11-28 is now my fate...
#AskGCNTech Hello! GCN Binge watcher here. Brake Question. I Love my CAAD12 frame but for the life of me I can not get my rear caliper to feel snappy. tried cleaning/lubing the calipers and have all the right stops on the internally routed line, and yet, my brakes feel mushy. They stop with a bit tighter of a pull, but mushy non the less. Can you help make my rear calipers clap like a walrus?
#AskGCNTech Hi Jon, love the show: it's very useful. I have a bottom bracket problem: they seem to die on me after an unusually small amount of km. The last one lasted around 200 Km. This one was never ridden in the rain or even in dusty conditions (and kept clean), and it gave up the ghost after a couple of innocent sprints. It's still an old style square taper one, and I'm thinking to upgrade to a Hollowtech-II groupset but: am I doing something wrong here? Should I expect a little more life from an Hollowtech-II BB or should I carry a spare one alongside a couple of inner tubes in my saddle bag? Thanks a lot! Also, I'm hoping in a little more stiffness from a more modern BB, but I'd be happy for them to just last more than a few rides...
That is strange. I also have a bike with a square taper bottom bracket and I have done 6000km on it and is still holding up good. How does your BB fail?
@@insaneelectronics5480 I think this one has developed some pitting: at the moment it has an intermittent knock at around 2 o'clock (drive side), but still no play. The previous one failed similarly, but after a reasonable amount of km (around 3000k: not being feather light I don't really expect BBs to last forever, but 200k feels a bit too less).
I think the biggest problem with the upside done comes from mountain biking and with the suspensions, it changes the flow of the oils and can cause problems.
For those with hydraulic disk brakes, there are two reasons not to flip that bike upside down for maintenace: Leaks from the "top" of the system in the brake levers can be a problem if the reservoirs aren't properly sealed. Poor seals there might not be noticeable when the bike is right side up, but when the bike is upside down, brake fluid may drip out of the system. Replace any fluid lost and fix those seals. A more serious problem though would be that any air bubbles that might be in the hydraulic lines, instead of staying at the top of the reservoir, can make their way towards the calipers where they can cause poor brake response if, after one flips their bike right side back, they don't eventually float back up to the reservoir before that first ride post-maintenance. Bleeding the brakes should remove any trapped gas bubbles for sure, though.
What about changing the cable routing to fully integrated (as it's done with all the expensive aero bikes)? Possible or not? In my case it would be Di2 and disc. #AskGCNTech
Pro make their Vibe aero bar and stem so that di2 cables can be routed internally but you're taking it to a new level. With steel and titanium, it would be possible but thiswould really need to be done by a frame builder with structural knowledge as it would involve holes in the steerer bb and chainstay near high stress areas. Check out this for some really rather tidy examples www.englishcycles.com
Everything functions properly ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Nothing was damaged in the box aside from a decal on the fork. The decal was missing a piece of a corner but I ended up peeling them off anyways. Assembly is easy BUT make sure you tune up the derailleurs. Both the front and rear need adjusting. I'd advise going to a bike shop but I opted out and put in 10+ hours with the help of RUclips. Ended up fraying a shifter cable but all in all I learned from the experience. The Brakes work well but the front caliper needs adjusting or at least mine did because the rotor was rubbing against the pads. Make sure you swap out the seat, grips, and pedals. For the short run you'll be fine though. I've read that this bike isn't built yet for hard trails but I just need it for the city. PA has some of the worst roads and being in a mountain this was a great choice. Worth the investment!
#AskGCNTech hi guys - I'm after a bit of advice please - am considering investing in a new ride but can't stretch to DI2 which i would dearly love. The new ride would come with mechanical ultegra disc groupset - could i easily upgrade to DI2 at a later date assuming i can actually save for the new components - love the show and keep up the good work 👍👍👍
#askGCNTech I have a cannondale caad5 2006 model , with shimano 9 speed groupset on it , even today . My indexing has gone wrong , after shifting on the lever, the lever makes a tap (can hear it) but isn't shifting from 12T to 13T rest all after 13T shift normally , similar it doesn't drop down from 13T to 12T , this happens both on 39T , 53T chainring !! Thank You !!
#AskGCNTech hey there. Love this channel and watch in all the languages available. I am not a very fast rider, more of a contemplative cyclist, so I find that I rarely use my 50t chainring on my FSA Omega compact. Would it make a big difference to change the big chainring to a 46t? What adjustments would I need to make? Any other solution to get a wider range of usable gears? My groupset is Tiagra 4700. It’s pretty flat and very few long descents here in Toronto.
I'm sure you already did this or have moved onto another bike altogether but for the sake of historical info, I did this exact mod on my cyclocross bike with a FSA Gossamer compact crankset. It works fine. A few things you may have to do to make it work, but all are easy. You will definitely have to adjust your front derailleur down a few millimeters so that the bottom edge of the derailleur hovers about 1-3mm (I'd go 2mm) over the new ring's teeth. This will probably also require you to let out some slack in your derailleur cable (might as well replace it unless it's new). You may also need to shorten your chain a few lengths. There are guides on chain sizing but depending on which rear derailleur you have being able to take up the slack, you might be able to get away with leaving it as is until a new chain is fitted.
Yes, all Shimano spindles are 24mm but the road spindles are shorter...frame is 68mm wide Vs 73mm on MTB... You may need to leave out the plastic sleeve or use the old one from the road BB. One of my bikes is opposite, running an XT crankset on road frame. I've had ultegra bearings on before but I need to add 5mm of spacers on all BBs due to the longer MTB spindle.
Hey John I have been having a problem with my front derailleur where when I shift the cable kind of flops around for a few seconds and sounds like its grinding and then will shift into the bigger sprocket. What can I do to fix this or is this just me shifting improperly? Thanks
So I have a Dremel tool and I'm wondering which cutting wheel will make my frame lighter. And yeah, I'm with you on that, Jon, no drilling, no slicing, no nothing on the frame, except maybe for candy or metalflake paint. But keep the external cables and the original art of the frame.
isnt 135mm MTB QR not Road QR (130)? Recall goin goofy on the crux 1 yr and resisting 142TA and making the crux 135TA (thought it was 2015, maybe 2016) saying they felt this was the way to go (Bike Radar dinged them on the bike review largely on that issue) and wouldnt you know it the next yr the bike was 142TA. -U10
Does anyone else think that John sounds like Hol from Red Dwarf? I wouldn't be surprised to hear him say, "they're all dead, Dave. Dave, they're all dead."
#AskGCNTech Hi! I have a lot of 10 speeders almost all the same models but with old parts and I want to upgrade them from the old round axis (english threaded 68 mm bottombracket) and steel crankset (42-52) to something really good but on the budget side... what kind of bottombracket, crankset and chain can I use? (the wheels are 27*1 1/4 with threaded normal aluminium hubs) I dont know so much but I thought you could help me... Greetings from Bolivia! :P the episode about Corsa Corsa was majestic ! Thank you very much, you guys are the best!
Don't forget to use #AskGCNTech if you've got a question for us 🔧
GCN Tech what are full length outer cables? I was googling the exact same question about drilling holes in my aluminum frame just last week, please let me know
@@chanito_nyc pop into a bike shop with your bike, they'll have a roll of cable outer casing that they will be able to measure and cut a length from for your bike. If you have some proper bike cable cutters you can order lengths of outer casing by the metre or foot online. When cutting the outer get the ends as flat as tidy as possible if you have a dremel or other similar grinder you can do this quite easily. The casing has a Teflon tube running through it so to prep it further before fitting use an pokey thing to open it up a bit and make it easier when you're threading the inner cable through. Oil the inner cable too with a fairly light oil, I actually rub some 15wt synthetic suspension oil into my inners prior to installing which sounds a little bizarre but works really rather well and it stays put. I service suspension forks so I have plenty of it knocking about and it works just as well as any premium lube for this purpose and is way way cheaper. Don't get any funny ideas about putting in on a chain though it would just attract every molecule of dust and dirt to it. SpeedWax is pretty much the best lube for chains and cassettes. Or "Squirt" lubes if you wanna keep things conventional and simple. Don't use spray oil though, the mist can get to brake sufaces and cause the sort of problems you really don't want when you really don't want them. Hope that all helps buddy 👍
Gautier you may well be able to wind your " b screw" in far enough for the jockey wheel to clear the 30t cog on the cassette, i've had sram road mechs working happily with a 32t cassette for sportive riders in the hills of Penwith before. Haven't done it with an etap sram mech but have with many other sram mechs. If your chain has plenty or wear in it, it's worth replacing that at the same time as old chains don't really mesh very well with new cassettes and will accelerate the wear on the new cassette plus you'll need a longer chain if you're broadening the ratio anyway. Top tip, rotate 3 chains the whole drivetrain assembly will work better for longer, there will be videos on youtube regarding this, it's what I myself and others in the know do, it works a treat especially if you're high mileage and or train all weathers 👌
Any follow up video about your super bike build coming up ?
How do y'all figure out a fixed gear?
I'm building up a fixed gear bike and I'd like all the opinions I can get.
Right now I'm thinking 48 x 20/18 or 46 x something.
I love how the first question answered is the title, thank you so much
In Germany we call people like this Ehrenmann, and I think thats beautiful
It’s not the correct answer tho
I have had to modify the frame on my last 4 drop bar bikes to change the cable routing, add different braze on mounts, or drill and tap a hole on the fork crown for a light mount. I don't know why people are so scared to make small changes like these to a frame especially when it is steel or titanium. It's not like bikes don't already have holes in them so what's the problem with adding a few more with some sense and discretion applied.
as long as you're not drilling holes on the welds and taking out big chunks that could compromise the tube strength it should be good.
Totally agree, I've just got a Ti frame which I intend to drill, grind and fit cable seats. Manufacturers have been doing it since the start, I've seen a lot of frames from my time as mechanic and I can say with confidence they are just tidily machined and painted channels in metal frames, never seen one with an increased thickness at a cable entrance unless it's carbon, even at that I've ridden snapped frames, they are shockingly strong
People who think of compromising the safety of tube just because you drilled a small hole are just overreacting.
If I heard correctly your viewer wanted to drill into a titanium frame, good luck with that. I have tried that with 6mm titanium plate. After melting about 6 HSS drills I was half way through, gave up and used stainless steel for the job I was doing. I am sure its possible but I think specialised tools are required.
This isn't getting enough attention.
Yup as you said titanium isn't easy to work with. I make aircraft parts from the stuff at work. Needs proper tooling
would it be safe on a cheap hi tensile steel frame ? ( to route the electronic cables on my Ebike )
I don’t think most places you’d drill holes in the frame aren’t 6mm thick. Also, I wouldn’t use hss as those aren’t strong enough imo. Cobalt or carbide would be better.
I also wouldn’t do this to a ti bike strictly because you probably would lower the value, but an old steel bike might be alright
I saw a new Litespeed modded to take a rear rack, not sure what they drilled with but drill bit specific cutting fluid is $5 and will make your bit about 500% quicker to grab and start cutting, and it will cut much faster and without damaging the bit. Chris King has gone to Canola oil cutting fluid, not sure if they use additives but I'd think they do, but might be worth a shot if you are in a hurry, even any cooking oil at all might work sort of, and wouldn't be so toxic as cuttin gfluid
When I was in Australia I rode my bike upside down.
Lol nice
@Never Gonnatell But then the earth would stop spinning
Not if you Drilled Your Bike Frame For Internal Cable Routing.
I think the fear of drilling holes in frames is a bit exaggerated. Obviously it should be avoided, and arguable in the case of a road bike it would rarely (if ever) be necessary, but as Jon said himself, people have drilled their frames and you don't hear of tubes exploding as a result. Furthermore, frames can break (without drilling), but rarely is it the sort of break where there is a real danger immediately presented to the rider. More often it's a case of, "I should probably stop riding that," or "is the downtube supposed to be rubbing the front wheel like that?" I drilled a single hole in my aluminum mountain bike to fit an internally routed dropper post and after a full season of riding trailers the frame is fine. All is good in moderation.
Been doing it since late 1970's.
Never ever had an issue with it !!!
I was watching the video because I'm contemplating drilling my old frame for internal cable routing, but damn, that hanger extender tip is gold!
Thank you.
Installing wheels is way easier with the bike upside down. You aren't fighting gravity trying to get them to bottom out in the dropouts.
Jason Bye I do it like that too it makes it idiot proof, I service bottom brackets with the bike upside too so it’s eye level in the stand
I just flip my bike onto the workbench with some carpeting to cushion the bars and saddle. Everything is at near perfect working height.
The workbench is there anyway and a workstand would take up some room.
I drilled my frame to route the cables internally and ground off the mounts etc. Looked really good, but it was made of Reynolds 501 so big solid steel tubes so no risk of weakening them. If you want I'll swap that frame with the externally routed titanium one and I'll "put up with" the external cables. 😉
About the bike upside down. I had been riding a bike actively about 5 years before I got a maintenance stand. I was so used to upside down bike that I could not figure out how to take the wheel off in the stand.
there are a few things that work much better when the bike is on the floor, or even upside down. there are at least a couple things you DON'T want to do with the bike in the stand. bottom bracket work is one of them.
Additionally, if you are having shifting problems, or trying to run a noise down, putting the bike upside down can make it near impossible to fix. Look at a bike in a normal position when turning the cranks.....even though the rear mech is helping take up the slack in the chain, there is still a slight drop in it from gravity. Turn the bike upside down, now you have the gravity drop in the chain at the "top" of the bike, between the cassette and chainring, not the chainring to rear mech. It can make it to where you will not here the noise you are trying to find, or duplicate the shift problem you are trying to figure out either.
If you drill a metal frame, make sure you use a sharp bit that cuts cleanly with minimal heating. Heat affected zone could lead to crack initiation.
About those derailler extenders. I've got one and on my small cage 105. It now fits a 34 tooth sprocket. Runs fine;
BUT the shifting on the smaller cogs is less crisp. Takes longer to switch. Guess it has to do with the larger distance between the guide pulley and the small cog.
Cheap, effective but it also has limits!
Un wind your b screw out a bit so that the chain wraps further around the smaller cogs. Normally speaking you'd wind it in to clear the larger cogs but now you have an extender in there that won't be as much of an issue, still check that the top jockey wheel clears the largest cog nicely but have it as unwound as you can get away with and check that the mech body doesn't bash the bottom of the chainstay (I doubt it can if it's sitting lower on the extender mount). That should help sort out the shifting and any slippage you might getting as long as all is straight and adjusted correctly. Hope that helps mate 👍
Already did the above, B screw is at it highest possible position to still fit under the largest sprocket. It works, but less crisp. Specially shifting to smaller cog can take a bit longer.
@@jordyd8916 OK try the H limit screw - unwind a quarter turn see if that helps it over shift a touch. Is there any play in the top jockey wheel because that can affect the crispness of shifting too. A clean and lubed cable will help as well especially on the way down the cogs.
@@jonnythelegs2597 I have some new jockey wheels on the way to exclude exactly that. When it comes to screws I really did find the optimal position .
@@jordyd8916 Cool, great minds think alike, hopefully that'll sort it. 👍
When I redid my Walmart extra bike at the time (gravel/tour bike) I drilled and grinded my frame for internal cable routing and haven't had any problems. Everyone online says that it is bad and not to do it but I would suggest that you do what I did and drill about an 1" to 2" a way from any welds. It all depends on the price of your frame and the little risk you want to involve in drilling your frame.
I like Jon's expression as he reads the drilling the frame idea LOL
Thanks John for answering my question. Adding a hanger extender, do I need to get a longer chain? thanks again.
Question. Can i convert my specialized tarmac SL6 to internal cable route with aero dropbar. Is ther any conversion kit available? Or do somebody done it in the past? Thanks
You should have explained that 9x100 and 10x135 are actually the axle sizes for old style wheels that use skewers (pre-through axle) while the skewers are actually 5mm diameter which is the size of the hole in the 9 and 10mm axles respectively, that's probably why he is confused, because if he looks for 9x100 and 10x135 skewers he is not going to find any indeed...
Why do they call them 9 and 10 then? It's always baffled me
@@johnrichards7847 9mm or 10mm axle diameter on a thru axle.
Somehow can we use in if the bottle cage holes to internally route a dropper seat post? PS. Got a rockrider xc100 2019
I would not drill, cause it might be dangerous. Especially for structure if carbon frame. Metal frames are more prone to corrosion around holes. On any frame it will avoid the warranty. But besides the "looks" it do not see why would anyone want to have cables on the inside. They are not so much better protected from elements. If you hit your frame so hard to damage cable, you are most likely going to damage the frame anyway. And if installed improperly cables are gonna make noise inside the frame. The only reason my cables are on the inside is 'cause the frame came like that from factory. It took me a few hours to instal new brakes. If you leave it to mechanic, he is gonna charge you extra. So, you won't save time nor money with internal routing. On top of that, you could make bike more interesting with the choice of a special cable color.
Regarding Fixing a bike upside down. I don't have a service stand, what is your recommended way of removing a rear wheel with the bike upright, without a service stand?
A person 'John Whoever' commented, he drills non internal cable routed frames and brazes (welding form) on a beefy plate I assume around the new drilled hole as support, I do aluminum welding.. sure it will cost me some money to strip the entire frame.. drill holes and weld, or braze, and then powder coat or repaint it.. but if you have the bike already and cannot go to lengths for newer one with this feature, I think drilling a hole done with good bits, precision and take your time will woek great..
If anyone has a idea if this form of adding some metarial to the hole to prevent stress around it will help please share
I'm running a standard eTap with an 11-30 Ultegra cassette, no problems. No need for Wolftooth hanger.
I have drilled a hole in my mountainbike frame to run a stealth routed dropper seat post. Having done that I would NOT drill a road/cyclocross frame just because the material is so much thinner and they aren't so over-built compared to mtb products.
Hi guys, i have an absolute nightmare doubt. I have a 2000€ budget and can not decide between a carbon bike with 105 or an alloy with ultegra, both with disc brakes. What do you recommend? Thanks a lot, and apologies for my English.
Appreciate the show, but where is the next episode of converting a cheap bike to a superbike? :) Really looking forward to it
Maybe he's having eighty thoughts about the frame color?
i drill 3 of my bikes for internal routing work just fine , on aluminum
are ur bikes still working just fine after that?, i mean, do u go for hard rides?
@@noob3k 6years no problems,,,
@@darkphotographer is there any special spot of the frame to do that?, cuz i'm thinking about doing the same thing
@@noob3k just don't go to close to the solder joint is the weak part of the frame leve 2-3cm from the solder , your frame have already some holes for the water bottle and i never see a frame brake there,
@@noob3k and i have also drill my alu fork on my touring bike to install rack no problems alo ther ,,
I do love watching this, but I find the whole it's complicated to work on a bike upside down a bit silly. Perfectly logical to not want to scuff your nice cockpit and parts, but anytime you work on any other machine, be it a car, plane, motorcycle, etc, you often work under that vehicle, or at weird angles (upside down in the front seat to get into the back of the dash. Learning how components go together upside down seems like a simple thing to ask of a budding cycling mechanic, and I'd rather flip my bike down on the side of the road while doing simple repairs than try and spend time cutting a stick to make a bike stand or something like that.
Just lay the bike down on the non drive side and you will be fine. Working on a bike upside down screams that you are a rookie, a Fred, or a Newb. Don't do it.
@@jasontrayal718 I'll happily do it, and laugh at all the cycling elitist's who scoff. I just put the bike in whatever position best facilitates working on the task at hand. What am going to do, lay on the ground next to my bike to fidget with a bottom bracket cable guide? Heck no, I'll just flip the bike over so I can see what I'm doing. Anything else, cosmetic reasons aside, is part of that cycling voodoo garbage that keeps new people from enjoying the sport because they're tiptoeing around a bunch of old farts and their traditions and superstitions.
I've got no problem with working on a bike upside down. I used to do it all the time but I eventually bought a stand, and it was the best money I ever spent on a bike tool.
@@minuteman4199 I use a stand at home, it's definitely the way to go for day to day stuff (vs roadside tweaks or tweaks while traveling)
Very disappointed in the answer about drilling frames. It is absolutely possible and no problem - how you you think bike manufacturers do it? i can assure you the rarely put reinforcement in for things like top tube holes for brake cables. I recently did it on a cinelli mash track frame. I want a rear brake ( sorry fixie aficionados) as i am going to run a freewheel. I bought some venge brake cable stops from bike24 for about 6 euro each.I drew a template of the underside of these and then tried it out on a bit of plastic pipe before drilling the frame. Whilst a little nerve wracking, it was pretty easy by drilling small holes and then completing the required shape with some needle files. I put some lacquer to seal the paint, drilled a 3mm hole for the small fixer screws and it looks amazing. I also drilled out the rear bridge so i can fit the rear brakes. This was pretty easy! 6mm on one side and 8mm on the other. I then used steel reinforced epoxy (6 quid from halfords) to beef up the bridge by filling up the inner cavity. I made a couple of carbon brackets for extra strength by buying a sheet of 2mm thick carbon fibre sheet and bolted this on with the brakes. Again, looks really good and is absolutely bomb proof. GCN don’t want you to take them to court but i’m really happy with my project and it’s made the bike way more special to me. Go for it... at your own risk :j
was thinking about drilling hole in my cross bike to route a stealth dropper. Rest of cables are internally routed. I have come to my senses and will route it externally. Frame is stealth black anyway don't think it will look that bad.
#AskGCNTech. Jon first off thanks for doing an awesome job not only entertaining but sharing your knowledge. I recently got an Canyon Endurace bike with the new 105 groupset. I love the groupset but recently I tried the electronic shifting and fell in love with it. Sadly according to the manufacture I can't upgrade to Di2 groupset since the cable holes are too small to fit the cabling/connectors through. I'm not drilling a bigger hole in the frame and don't want to go the etap route either. My question is, do you know if cutting the cables, fitting them through and then resolder it would work? Do you know any other solution?
I've done it.
I'm just not a sissy !
Back in the 70's we drilled EVERYTHING. Cranks, brakehandles, stearing column, saddlepost, chainrings, rear derallieur and everything else.
Yes. Yes you did. And it was BEAUT-ti-FULL!!
#AskGCNTech Can I use my carbon bike on a direct drive trainer without risking the safety of the frame? My trainer is Elite Turbo Muin B+ (Fluid, not app controlled)
@gnctech Thanks for all of the useful information. I have a question #AskGCNTech. I'm planning a new 1x build. Exact groupset TBC. However the one thing I know is that I really hate the look of most of the current road cranksets (2x and 1x). I would really love to use a set of more classic looking 144BCD track cranks like a DA 7600, omnium or MIche Pistard. I would just exchange the track ring for a Narrow wide. My issue is that I'm worried about BB compatibility and chainline. Do the adapters for press fit to threaded work ok? Even if I get it adapted will the chainline be too narrow for the rear cassette. Most likely build would be with a cube agree frame and sram 10-42 cassette. Although that is flexible.
#AskGCNTech Hello Jon, I would like to know your recommendation for servicing parts that contain carbon components, e.g. Campag rear mech. Usually I would just strip down the components and degrease them in Jizer. However, I suspect this may harm carbon parts. What do you suggest?
Why does my chain jump or slip on the lowest cogs and the big crank ring when im going for a 55 or 60kp/h what should i do? #AskGCNTech
I was hoping to see how to convert to internal cable routing. Anybody has any links to that?
Hey, about that hanger extender... I work in a bike shop and i have done it many times, and even fitting 11-42t is possible, of course only oneby. TRY IT
Hi Jon, I’m having issues with my front shifting. When shifting from the large chainring to the small chainring it snaps back under very high tension. Is there something wrong with my shifter? I've installed a new cable and have set the limiting screws but nothing seems to be fixing it... Any advice? #AskGCNTech
Hi GCN! I just purchased a used Zipp 404 and 808 from a friend. After installing on my bike I did a few turns of the crank to make sure everything was smooth and felt a substantial vibration almost like the wheel is out of balance. With deep section wheels do I need to balance the wheel to remove the vibration or once I get on the road is it something I won't even notice? #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech Hello and thank you for the great tips. I recently bought a cabon frame from eBay, and I was trying to fixed a few knicks and chips on the frame, but I noticed that was some kind of super thin film over the clear coat (not to be confused with chain clear protector). For a moment, I thought it was the clear coat that was peeling off, but oddly it flakes off. When I use some alcohol to clean it, then it woud disolve to a sticky gue stuff. My suspicion is that it had a very thick coat of wax, and it dried up.
Do you think it is wax or a different type of clear super think coating? Do people wax their bikes? Do you recommend waxing the bike after cleaning?
#askgcntech assuming the limit screws and tension are set properly so the chain doesn't fall off is there any reason that 3x shifters and fd (sora model) could not be used with a 2x crankset? Thank you!
#AskGCNTech What's the difference between road calipers and mtb calipers? I have Force cx1 hydraulic brake in a gravel bike that I use off-road and I'm not very happy with the brake performance, Could I replace the calipers for a sram MTB pair like a code R?
Hi Jon , I have a triban 500 gravel touring bike with Shimano Sora groupset and aluminium 6061 alloy .However it has external cable routing . Can I drill the frame for an internal cable routing . Will it be
Good for my frame?
Thank you #AskGCNTech
Can you spray paint a carbon road bike? If yes do I necessarily need to remove the initial paint on it?
Check out spray.bike. Don't need to remove the existing paint but a slight roughen up with some smooth sandpaper will allow the new paint to stick better.
sounds like a good idea to drill a hole in your carbon frame :) I certainly wouldn't mess with titanium, they aren't as strong as people think they are.
I’ve got a supersix evo with external cables, and I could image some people drilling holes to get internal cables. Definitely wouldn’t end well...
Whew! Thanks, Jon!
Hi, my wife has a Specialized Ruby Elite Disc from 2016. The BB is 386Evo, (FSA). I was thinking of swapping it to SRAM Rival, but cannot see 386Evo specific. What can I use? This BB thing i just confusing... Also, any idea of how wide tyres it can fit? Cannot find info on it... In general, I'm looking for upgrades on this bike, and/or make it more gravel friendly :) #AskGCNTech
#AskGCNTech got an old orange crush frame, but can't work out how to attach the cables as there are only pop rivets along the frame where I thought the cable should run any ideas ??
#AskGCNTech Early 9 speed Campag cassettes (pre 2000) have 26mm lockrings. Is it possible to change the cassette body to later 10 speed (or any alternative really) that has a more standard 27mm lockring? Also where did you get a 11-36 tooth Campag cassette? The biggest I have found is a Miche 12-29. Cheers Dave
#askgcntech A bit taboo, I know, but my grandfather wants me to work on his bike and he has a triple chainring. How do I go about indexing/aligning it?
I would try and align the derailleur to the middle cog, then fix the limit screws for the big and small ones
Hello John! I have got a hero Sprint next 0.3 bike....how can I lock the middle shock absorber?thanks #ASKGCNTECH
hey average indian, these people talk about road bikes, and your hero sprint is nowehere near close to the sophistication road bikes have. Go ask your local mechanic
#askgcntech Hi gcn, I’m swapping my Mavic Ksyrium Elite wheels over to my 10spd campagnolo veloce bike, got the new freehub installed, how can I tell if it needs a spacer on before I install the cassette?
can i drill a carbon bike frame to change to cantilever brakes?
#AskGCNTech Hi guys, I've recently been involved in a crash where my alloy rear wheel has been made quite out of true (around 1cm +/-), how do I know whether I need a new rim or if I can just re-true it? I have a power tap hub fitted so an entire new wheel won't be happening. Thanks, Flynn
1 cm is a lot it sounds like its toast but there are some really skilled LBS out there I doubt it will ever be perfect
#AskGCNTech I have internally routed cabled bikes but they are external at the front before they go in to the down tube or top tube. The externally routed cables rattle against the the head tube and has started to chip the paint how can I stop this?
Yes.
#ASKGCNTECH I'm missing a screw of my Campagnolo Delta Breaks! It obviously is 3mm grub screw!
I've looked everywhere to find one but sadly couldn't!
So I decided to make my self one, by cutting a "normal" 3mm screw to the right length and also a gap on top of it so to imitate the 3,5 Imbus hole, which would have been there at the original.
But still does not work!
I'm was already tightening it 2 NM more than the original and the cable still sliped!
What can I do?
(Apologies for the bad writing skill)
Great Q&A Jon! Answered my thought about the drilling of tubes for internal routing. Doesn't seem like a big deal, but manufacturers do create the frames to their specs and any alterations could be catastrophic, keep up the great work!
Dave Patton depends on the nature of the tubes but you’re pretty much talking nonsense. Unless it is paper then a tube won’t collapse with a hole drilled for a brake cable.
Well, unless you're working for a bicycle manufacturer or are on par with Jon's expertise I take your words at face value, which indeed seems to be none. Thanks anyhow!
The derailleur extender works but you will need a longer chain. Problem there is you have issues when using 11 sprocket on the small ring the chain is too long and the bigger sprocket (30/32) on the big ring does not work with the shorter chain. Tried the same thing and it just does not work as it was made to. Better buy the wifli and sell the old shirt cage on eBay
For the Crux.
Wasn’t 2015 the first of the scs wheels? If so the spacing is different. Officially you’re supposed to use an scs hub - I think it’s only hope that make aftermarket hubs and unfortunately you can now only get them in black or from Specialized themselves. I’m wondering if that’s why the bike shops aren’t able to give you a qr. That being said, it might’ve been 2016.
If it’s scs then you need to swap the mech hanger. On the Diverge it’s Specialized part number 9890-4227 I assume it’s the same part for the crux but ask your bike shop.
I want to see external to internal cable mod!
#AskGCNTech can I spray paint my carbon bike frame? If yes, is it necessary to remove the initial paint on it?
#AskGCNTech Jon, I have a pair of giant PR-2 disc for my training wheels. The local shop says that the freewheel is wearing out and will need to be replaced soon, however giant doesn’t sell replacements. What can I do without buying new wheels? Great show.
#AskGCNTech Hi guys! I have a one year old bike. I'm planning to use it for commuting and want to fit some PERMANENT mudguards. The thing is that it doesn't have any eyelets. Can I craft a metal piece that fits onto the quick release so that I can attach them ?
Jon, you'd make a heckuva Drill Sergeant.
#AskGCNtech when building a custom disc wheelset, can you use a rim brake rim on a disc hub or will the forces produced by the braking power of discs destroy the rim ?
Thanks
I have rebuilt cheap rim brake eheel with disc hubs, they are worn half way and survived 90kg of me trashing it for 500miles, and doing wheelie stops from time to time. Main thing is 3 cross lacing, but you probably know that already
Does applying degreaser in the cogs without removing it from the hub body affects the bearings of the hub? #AskGCNTech
how do you reduce weight on your bike without carbon and titanium? i'm on a budget btw
#askgcntech changing down front ring from big to small under load is causing chain to come off, time for a new chain or derailleur adjustment? A quick back pedal seems to sort it thankfully, so not a full off (or indeed a fall off!)
#AskGCNTech Is there any new silver wheelsets still selling nowadays. Can't find one for the build. Cheers Eric
#AskGCNTech hi there tech masters, I’m planing on buying a crankset power meter, and therefore swapping my ultegra R8000 52/36 from my carbon bike to my 105 bike. The 105 currently runs a 50/34 compact crankset, so what kind of adjustments or adaptation am I facing for the front derailleur and/or chain? Thanks, and keep up the good work
I think before sharing some ridiculous thing like reducing safety of the tube when drilled...you should really do some reading about metals and it strengt properties and if drilling changing anything or not.
Mr. Cannings....Tried to get a 30 cassette on my Scott Foil with Red Etap by taking your advice and trying an extender from Wolf Tooth. Shifting was doo doo afterward and I had to give up the fight. Thought maybe extender was machined a bit off (bent/crooked?) although for a great company like WT that seemed unlikely. 11-28 is now my fate...
Did you try without the extender? It's not recommended but I know someone with non-wifli eTap on a giant TCR with a 30t cassette.
#AskGCNTech
Hello! GCN Binge watcher here. Brake Question. I Love my CAAD12 frame but for the life of me I can not get my rear caliper to feel snappy. tried cleaning/lubing the calipers and have all the right stops on the internally routed line, and yet, my brakes feel mushy. They stop with a bit tighter of a pull, but mushy non the less. Can you help make my rear calipers clap like a walrus?
Already drilled my frame 😂 I did it because I went to an IR dropper.
#AskGCNTech Hi Jon, love the show: it's very useful. I have a bottom bracket problem: they seem to die on me after an unusually small amount of km. The last one lasted around 200 Km. This one was never ridden in the rain or even in dusty conditions (and kept clean), and it gave up the ghost after a couple of innocent sprints. It's still an old style square taper one, and I'm thinking to upgrade to a Hollowtech-II groupset but: am I doing something wrong here? Should I expect a little more life from an Hollowtech-II BB or should I carry a spare one alongside a couple of inner tubes in my saddle bag? Thanks a lot! Also, I'm hoping in a little more stiffness from a more modern BB, but I'd be happy for them to just last more than a few rides...
Maybe this link can help you out, www.bbinfinite.com/. These BB’ s are awesome!
That is strange. I also have a bike with a square taper bottom bracket and I have done 6000km on it and is still holding up good. How does your BB fail?
@@insaneelectronics5480 I think this one has developed some pitting: at the moment it has an intermittent knock at around 2 o'clock (drive side), but still no play. The previous one failed similarly, but after a reasonable amount of km (around 3000k: not being feather light I don't really expect BBs to last forever, but 200k feels a bit too less).
I think the biggest problem with the upside done comes from mountain biking and with the suspensions, it changes the flow of the oils and can cause problems.
For those with hydraulic disk brakes, there are two reasons not to flip that bike upside down for maintenace:
Leaks from the "top" of the system in the brake levers can be a problem if the reservoirs aren't properly sealed. Poor seals there might not be noticeable when the bike is right side up, but when the bike is upside down, brake fluid may drip out of the system. Replace any fluid lost and fix those seals.
A more serious problem though would be that any air bubbles that might be in the hydraulic lines, instead of staying at the top of the reservoir, can make their way towards the calipers where they can cause poor brake response if, after one flips their bike right side back, they don't eventually float back up to the reservoir before that first ride post-maintenance. Bleeding the brakes should remove any trapped gas bubbles for sure, though.
What about changing the cable routing to fully integrated (as it's done with all the expensive aero bikes)? Possible or not?
In my case it would be Di2 and disc.
#AskGCNTech
Pro make their Vibe aero bar and stem so that di2 cables can be routed internally but you're taking it to a new level. With steel and titanium, it would be possible but thiswould really need to be done by a frame builder with structural knowledge as it would involve holes in the steerer bb and chainstay near high stress areas. Check out this for some really rather tidy examples www.englishcycles.com
Everything functions properly ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Nothing was damaged in the box aside from a decal on the fork. The decal was missing a piece of a corner but I ended up peeling them off anyways. Assembly is easy BUT make sure you tune up the derailleurs. Both the front and rear need adjusting. I'd advise going to a bike shop but I opted out and put in 10+ hours with the help of RUclips. Ended up fraying a shifter cable but all in all I learned from the experience. The Brakes work well but the front caliper needs adjusting or at least mine did because the rotor was rubbing against the pads. Make sure you swap out the seat, grips, and pedals. For the short run you'll be fine though. I've read that this bike isn't built yet for hard trails but I just need it for the city. PA has some of the worst roads and being in a mountain this was a great choice. Worth the investment!
Please do a video on how to use the park tools FFS-2 frame and fork straightener tool
#AskGCNTech hi guys - I'm after a bit of advice please - am considering investing in a new ride but can't stretch to DI2 which i would dearly love. The new ride would come with mechanical ultegra disc groupset - could i easily upgrade to DI2 at a later date assuming i can actually save for the new components - love the show and keep up the good work 👍👍👍
Are those tools on the wall really used, or are they props?
I guess you missed a few videos, go check out the latest bike build video as reference ruclips.net/video/zqjMaFW7lO4/видео.html
Just buy a Shimano 13-28 brand new for what, $20? LBS should have stacks or can get one in within days.
#askGCNTech I have a cannondale caad5 2006 model , with shimano 9 speed groupset on it , even today .
My indexing has gone wrong , after shifting on the lever, the lever makes a tap (can hear it) but isn't shifting from 12T to 13T rest all after 13T shift normally , similar it doesn't drop down from 13T to 12T , this happens both on 39T , 53T chainring !! Thank You !!
sound jamed try spraying wd40 in there remder to lube it after sonic clean may help to
I would have added the loosening hydraulic breaks to the upside down bike question
#askgcntech when choosing gear ratios and chainrings, what % difference in the GI is a noticeable and beneficial change on the low and high end?
#AskGCNTech hey there. Love this channel and watch in all the languages available. I am not a very fast rider, more of a contemplative cyclist, so I find that I rarely use my 50t chainring on my FSA Omega compact. Would it make a big difference to change the big chainring to a 46t? What adjustments would I need to make? Any other solution to get a wider range of usable gears? My groupset is Tiagra 4700. It’s pretty flat and very few long descents here in Toronto.
I'm sure you already did this or have moved onto another bike altogether but for the sake of historical info, I did this exact mod on my cyclocross bike with a FSA Gossamer compact crankset. It works fine. A few things you may have to do to make it work, but all are easy. You will definitely have to adjust your front derailleur down a few millimeters so that the bottom edge of the derailleur hovers about 1-3mm (I'd go 2mm) over the new ring's teeth. This will probably also require you to let out some slack in your derailleur cable (might as well replace it unless it's new). You may also need to shorten your chain a few lengths. There are guides on chain sizing but depending on which rear derailleur you have being able to take up the slack, you might be able to get away with leaving it as is until a new chain is fitted.
Switched to a FSA Omega 46-30 and it works great. Just had to lower the front derailleur.
JC. My man. #CanningsPotY2019
Can a 105 crankset spindle fit into shimano mtb bottom bracket,hope you guys can help with ? Btw really good content in every video #ASKGCNTECH
Yes, all Shimano spindles are 24mm but the road spindles are shorter...frame is 68mm wide Vs 73mm on MTB... You may need to leave out the plastic sleeve or use the old one from the road BB.
One of my bikes is opposite, running an XT crankset on road frame. I've had ultegra bearings on before but I need to add 5mm of spacers on all BBs due to the longer MTB spindle.
I should add, that the 105 crank cannot be put on a MTB frame as the 73mm frame spacing is too wide for the cranks to fit properly.
Hey John I have been having a problem with my front derailleur where when I shift the cable kind of flops around for a few seconds and sounds like its grinding and then will shift into the bigger sprocket. What can I do to fix this or is this just me shifting improperly? Thanks
So I have a Dremel tool and I'm wondering which cutting wheel will make my frame lighter. And yeah, I'm with you on that, Jon, no drilling, no slicing, no nothing on the frame, except maybe for candy or metalflake paint. But keep the external cables and the original art of the frame.
isnt 135mm MTB QR not Road QR (130)? Recall goin goofy on the crux 1 yr and resisting 142TA and making the crux 135TA (thought it was 2015, maybe 2016) saying they felt this was the way to go (Bike Radar dinged them on the bike review largely on that issue) and wouldnt you know it the next yr the bike was 142TA. -U10
www.bikeradar.com/us/road/gear/category/bikes/cyclo-cross/product/review-specialized-crux-elite-x1-49855/ 2016 it seems.
Does anyone else think that John sounds like Hol from Red Dwarf? I wouldn't be surprised to hear him say, "they're all dead, Dave. Dave, they're all dead."
You're not the only one.
I was getting powerful James Acaster vibes
How can I hide my cables?
Gautier. You’re in luck, unless your bike has a really short derailleur hangar, your short cage derailleur will handle an 11/30.
Scott H yep. I run a 11-30 on my etap short cage. Works perfectly.
Whatever happened to "Building The Bike Ep. 5"
#AskGCNTech Hi! I have a lot of 10 speeders almost all the same models but with old parts and I want to upgrade them from the old round axis (english threaded 68 mm bottombracket) and steel crankset (42-52) to something really good but on the budget side... what kind of bottombracket, crankset and chain can I use? (the wheels are 27*1 1/4 with threaded normal aluminium hubs) I dont know so much but I thought you could help me... Greetings from Bolivia! :P the episode about Corsa Corsa was majestic ! Thank you very much, you guys are the best!