Caution...I used a 16 penney nail spacer with 2x6 decking that was "really" moist. Bad choice for me as the spacing really opened up . I wish I had butted the decking tight. Watch what your decking is like on install.
If you're pulling out a bow. Only put one screw so the board can pivot on it. You also have one board bark side up in the thuumbnail. Over time it will cup with the outside edges curling towards the barkside makeing for a nice water holding cup to rot your boards away.
you should never tap the spacer nail into the surface of the 2x6 or what ever the frame boards are, doing that opens the surface of the wood allowing water to enter and sit in that 1/4" inch or so hole/divet you just created and that promotes rot. Drive your spacer nail completely through a scrap piece of wood maybe a 4x4" piece of cutoff then simply drop the nail into the gap using the block to keep it from falling through, secure your deck board by whichever means you're using and lift your blocks out moving them to the next location.
I don't understand why you wouldn't space the boards. Why would I care if the spacing went from 1/8 to 1/4? I've seen multiple decks rot because the pressure treated wood didn't shrink as expected. No gap seems much worse than a wider gap that is nearly impossible to notice
best i can come up with is what you saw were 2x6’s installed as the deck boards.. ? maybe? the 5/4 deck boards are slightly rounded off, similar to a landscaping timber.. where those rounded parts meet will shrink up when wet pressure treated wood dries/cures.. that is also why you wait to stain your deck.. you don’t do it immediately
Depends on the moisture content of your lumber. How much shinkage will happen over time. Ive always been told to sliggtly gap incase it doesnt shrink as much as you expected. With that said dont gap it at the gap you want as the finished product. ⅛" gap will grow to ⅜" gap give or take ⅜"will grow to ½" or more.
Once ive got the first board on where i think it should be i then measure to the end of the frsme to check its square. Also i get the timber delibered couple weeks prior to let it acclimatise a bit.
Tilt your palm sander, it will create a low spot. Perhaps u can feather it out. Beats holding the palm sander level and sanding it for 20 minutes. Don't use a flap wheel unless u know ur grits. 60 grit flap wheel will most def create a noticeable low spot. @@rudyferrell
I'd make sure all my boards were installed bark side down to prevent cupping. The second board is installed bark side up in the video.
Caution...I used a 16 penney nail spacer with 2x6 decking that was "really" moist. Bad choice for me as the spacing really opened up . I wish I had butted the decking tight. Watch what your decking is like on install.
If you're pulling out a bow. Only put one screw so the board can pivot on it.
You also have one board bark side up in the thuumbnail. Over time it will cup with the outside edges curling towards the barkside makeing for a nice water holding cup to rot your boards away.
you should never tap the spacer nail into the surface of the 2x6 or what ever the frame boards are, doing that opens the surface of the wood allowing water to enter and sit in that 1/4" inch or so hole/divet you just created and that promotes rot.
Drive your spacer nail completely through a scrap piece of wood maybe a 4x4" piece of cutoff then simply drop the nail into the gap using the block to keep it from falling through, secure your deck board by whichever means you're using and lift your blocks out moving them to the next location.
Gapping shouldn't be necessary with pressure treated lumber as it shrinks a little anyway, do you agree?
If the decking board is totally dry then you need a gap, but most of the time they're wet so they go tight together
I don't understand why you wouldn't space the boards. Why would I care if the spacing went from 1/8 to 1/4? I've seen multiple decks rot because the pressure treated wood didn't shrink as expected. No gap seems much worse than a wider gap that is nearly impossible to notice
Amen!! I’ve seen that too. 🤦♂️
best i can come up with is what you saw were 2x6’s installed as the deck boards.. ? maybe? the 5/4 deck boards are slightly rounded off, similar to a landscaping timber.. where those rounded parts meet will shrink up when wet pressure treated wood dries/cures.. that is also why you wait to stain your deck.. you don’t do it immediately
Spacing off your ledger board isn’t always prudent as not all concrete/wall surfaces are straight.
Ive never done this work b4 some ppl say have the boards tight as possible when screwing down whys ur method leave a gap
Depends on the moisture content of your lumber.
How much shinkage will happen over time.
Ive always been told to sliggtly gap incase it doesnt shrink as much as you expected.
With that said dont gap it at the gap you want as the finished product. ⅛" gap will grow to ⅜" gap give or take ⅜"will grow to ½" or more.
Butt them together, they will shrink in width after they dry and then you will have your spacing
True... Watch what your Decking is like ...
Once ive got the first board on where i think it should be i then measure to the end of the frsme to check its square.
Also i get the timber delibered couple weeks prior to let it acclimatise a bit.
Best video I've found thank you
The guidance I needed! Thanks.
I ran into a problem last time where there was an ink stamp on every board. Is there any way to avoid that?
Sand it
Tilt your palm sander, it will create a low spot. Perhaps u can feather it out. Beats holding the palm sander level and sanding it for 20 minutes. Don't use a flap wheel unless u know ur grits. 60 grit flap wheel will most def create a noticeable low spot. @@rudyferrell
Are those 1x6 on the deck
5/4x6
good info
She's speaking of values to this thing with no values, nor value.
Just backspin the screw before driving it in.
You'll never split a board.
None of them pre drill shenanigans.