Really cool how you are able to get accurate miters without a special tool. I'm impressed with your videos so far and can't wait to see the rest of the series!
This is so cool, thanks again for sharing your processes as you go along, invaluable content for so many like me. I absolutely love the use of the wood lathe and sliding vice to do the mitre, a superbly thought out idea. I hope you are okay with people copying the idea ;)
@@ThriftyFramebuilder funny you mention that, I have been perusing small metal lathes also. That would be invaluable, and possibly a mini milling machine depending on what needs to be made for jig setup, etc.
Thanks! The main reason is I don’t own a mill, and any other way of using a hole saw won’t give as good results. The abrasive miter finisher makes really clean, accurate miters.
Thanks! I realized after posting my 1st video that the audio levels were too low. Bumped things up a bit for this one. Still learning the little things involved in making RUclips videos. Hopefully they’ll keep getting better.
This promises to be the bestdiy frame building vid on utube, I''m hooked on following the series, thanks so much! You mentioned Paul Brodie(Framebuild 101), his vids on how to braze are without a doubt the best you will find anywhere, covers everything you need to see/learn. This is great me specifically as I'm a bit taller than you, nice to see the thoughts that go into building a tall frame.
Thanks! I probably won’t do much “how to” content when I get to the brazing stage of the project for that very reason. Brodie has that well covered. Being a fellow tall person, I’m sure you understand some of the motivation to build my own frames!
Just found your channel. Watched this episode and immediately subscribed. This is going to be very interesting to watch. Thanks for taking the time to explain and detail your approach. 👍😎👍
Thanks so much for such a thorough and detailed video. Looking forward to the entire series. Sorry if this is an obvious question, is it safe to braze indoors or do you need good ventilation?
I know a few people that braze in their basement with a fan in the window, but I’d never do it. I’m cautious when it comes to fumes. A decent sized garage space with a couple fans in the window is what I do. I also use a respirator when I braze, and open the door to air it out afterward. I also don’t hang out in the garage right after I’m done.
Depends on the bike and where it gets ridden. I mostly use flat or 'alt' bars, but I really like a good drop bar. I think it's time for the bar end to make a comeback. I love the flat bars and bar ends on my ATB.
hello, im verry interested in Tubes of alloy 7005 or 7020, or Tubes of ti6al4v to build my own Bike. and maybe Sheets.... do you can deliver that? Kind regards Timo
@@ThriftyFramebuilder You think the bottom bracket is somehow less stressed on a fillet brazed frame? Sleeve the top, put the thick wall at the bottom where it belongs.
No, but the extra thickness is more important at the ST cluster than the BB cluster. And the thicker wall belongs on the top for this tube. The ID of the thick end of the tube is butted to fit a seatpost. From the product description for this seat tube: “This is a 35mm OD seat tube butted for a 31.6 seat post. 35MM X 1.6/.9 X 600 The ID is undersized to allow for post weld/braze reaming. ID is 31.6-31.5”. The “thin” end of this tube is 0.9mm which is the same wall thickness as the butted ends of the DT and TT, and other than extreme cases, is plenty thick for the BB cluster.
@@ThriftyFramebuilder OK, my mistake - things have changed in the thirty years since I worked in a frame building shop. I suppose I shouldn't be surprised.
No worries! From what I understand (from watching Paul Brodie), seat tubes that are butted at the top so you don't need a sleeve didn't come around until sometime in the 90's. I'm guessing even then they weren't common at first. If I was using a thinner single butted tube (0.9/0.6), I would be doing exactly what you mentioned... put the thick end at the BB and a sleeve at the ST cluster. Thanks for the discussion and thanks for watching!
Appreciate the level of depth and explanations of methods. Keep them coming.
Thanks, will do!
The sanding drum set up to finish those miters is brilliant, thanks for documenting this!
Thanks!!
Really cool how you are able to get accurate miters without a special tool. I'm impressed with your videos so far and can't wait to see the rest of the series!
Thanks!
This is so cool, thanks again for sharing your processes as you go along, invaluable content for so many like me. I absolutely love the use of the wood lathe and sliding vice to do the mitre, a superbly thought out idea. I hope you are okay with people copying the idea ;)
Thanks, glad you liked it! In the long run it might have been better (and safer) to buy a small imported metal lathe, but my setup saved a bit of $$$.
@@ThriftyFramebuilder funny you mention that, I have been perusing small metal lathes also. That would be invaluable, and possibly a mini milling machine depending on what needs to be made for jig setup, etc.
Cool video series! Any reason you’re not mitering with a hole saw?
Thanks! The main reason is I don’t own a mill, and any other way of using a hole saw won’t give as good results. The abrasive miter finisher makes really clean, accurate miters.
Really nice video, good audio and explanation of everything. I like the wood lathe use.
Thanks! I realized after posting my 1st video that the audio levels were too low. Bumped things up a bit for this one. Still learning the little things involved in making RUclips videos. Hopefully they’ll keep getting better.
Doing precision work in minus 10 degrees, wow. Great video series!
Thanks!
Good job dude! Really interested to see part 3 next on your series.
Thanks!
Cool dude, I am working on getting my first frame built soon. Looking forward to your build.
Have fun with your frame project!
That is a really sweet simply yoke design! Love the cut outs for locating the bridge piece!
Thanks! The cutout was one of the main ideas I tweaked from the Konga yoke.
I'm really impressed with your miters. I was a little skeptical when you whipped out the Dremel, but it came out so precise! Super cool.
Thanks!
This promises to be the bestdiy frame building vid on utube, I''m hooked on following the series, thanks so much! You mentioned Paul Brodie(Framebuild 101), his vids on how to braze are without a doubt the best you will find anywhere, covers everything you need to see/learn. This is great me specifically as I'm a bit taller than you, nice to see the thoughts that go into building a tall frame.
Thanks! I probably won’t do much “how to” content when I get to the brazing stage of the project for that very reason. Brodie has that well covered. Being a fellow tall person, I’m sure you understand some of the motivation to build my own frames!
Just found your channel. Watched this episode and immediately subscribed. This is going to be very interesting to watch. Thanks for taking the time to explain and detail your approach. 👍😎👍
Awesome, thank you!
Very nicely done,
Thank you!
Thanks so much for such a thorough and detailed video. Looking forward to the entire series. Sorry if this is an obvious question, is it safe to braze indoors or do you need good ventilation?
I know a few people that braze in their basement with a fan in the window, but I’d never do it. I’m cautious when it comes to fumes. A decent sized garage space with a couple fans in the window is what I do. I also use a respirator when I braze, and open the door to air it out afterward. I also don’t hang out in the garage right after I’m done.
nice one
👍👍
Do you prefer flat bars over drop bars? Thanks!
Depends on the bike and where it gets ridden. I mostly use flat or 'alt' bars, but I really like a good drop bar. I think it's time for the bar end to make a comeback. I love the flat bars and bar ends on my ATB.
That's a looong frame
👍👍 It’s an XXL.
hello, im verry interested in Tubes of alloy 7005 or 7020, or Tubes of ti6al4v to build my own Bike. and maybe Sheets.... do you can deliver that? Kind regards Timo
No, sorry.
The thick end of the seat tube is supposed to go at the bottom.
Maybe on a lugged frame, but not on a fillet brazed frame.
@@ThriftyFramebuilder You think the bottom bracket is somehow less stressed on a fillet brazed frame? Sleeve the top, put the thick wall at the bottom where it belongs.
No, but the extra thickness is more important at the ST cluster than the BB cluster.
And the thicker wall belongs on the top for this tube. The ID of the thick end of the tube is butted to fit a seatpost.
From the product description for this seat tube:
“This is a 35mm OD seat tube butted for a 31.6 seat post. 35MM X 1.6/.9 X 600 The ID is undersized to allow for post weld/braze reaming. ID is 31.6-31.5”.
The “thin” end of this tube is 0.9mm which is the same wall thickness as the butted ends of the DT and TT, and other than extreme cases, is plenty thick for the BB cluster.
@@ThriftyFramebuilder OK, my mistake - things have changed in the thirty years since I worked in a frame building shop. I suppose I shouldn't be surprised.
No worries! From what I understand (from watching Paul Brodie), seat tubes that are butted at the top so you don't need a sleeve didn't come around until sometime in the 90's. I'm guessing even then they weren't common at first. If I was using a thinner single butted tube (0.9/0.6), I would be doing exactly what you mentioned... put the thick end at the BB and a sleeve at the ST cluster. Thanks for the discussion and thanks for watching!
"Butt checker"...Tee hee 🙃
I almost gave this video the subtitle, "Checkin' Butts and Makin' Sparks".