Helpful video. The soundproofingcompany doesn't seem to have their own install videos. 4:26 it looks like you might have forgotten to use acoustic caulk in between the connection sheets, corners, and perimeter of the first layer of drywall? It looks like you mention it later on, but the video doesn't appear that it was done.
No I didn’t forget. Using the Rod Gervais method you only need acoustic caulk on the final layer. It is meant to creat the final air gap. One layer does that job. Two could be helpful, but also may waste time and money.
Please talk about the exterior layer, or at least the sheathing behind the siding. Are there multiple vapor barriers? It could cause water problems. Good explanation of tech in the interior wall assemblies diagrams I saw.
You only need IB-3 clips because you did a hat channel ceiling correct? With a double wall your ceiling, the inner ceiling should hold the inner walls in place? Do you use acoustic caulk in all drywall corners, seems and joints? If so can you mud and tape over that?
I no longer use Ib3 clips the way I did. The walls once attached are sturdy enough. The double ceiling is even more sturdy. Yes, acoustic caulk all perimeter seems.
Neyy I say on the green glue! 😂 I hate how it advertises that it turns sound into heat like thats some kind of special feature, when thats just the physics of sound hitting pretty much anything. Spent nearly a decade working in Sheffield in multiple studios, all of them swear by a layer MLV or specialist techsound membrane in-between acoustic drywall over green glue/acoustic sealant. Everything else in the video is spot on man 👌 great work! You can't beat room within a room!
I agree! I have had a sudden realization that green glue works but is overkill. Although it does help in the low frequencies. I teach two layers of drywall but you could do a layer of MLV and a layer of drywall but I have no idea what the results would be. Thanks for watching.
Hey Nikolas, yes the double wall system is better. I recommend using it when possible. The hat channel system works too, but will not be as soundproof.
Good question! You definitely want to screw the second layer on as well. Use slightly longer screws so reach the studs and make sure you know where the studs are. If they are every 16" OC then you can use a measuring tape to keep track, but I would also recommend marking the 1st layer just in case so you know where those screws should go.
Great question. You need to add an extra stud to the furring channels don't sag. So yo add another stud next to the corner wall stud. Then add IB-1 clips to the new stud. Leave a .5 inch of furring channel hanging past the IB-1 clip. Now you have two channels meeting at a 90 degree angle in your corners. The soundproofing company has some great diagrams of how to do this.
Thanks for the video! Question: Did you consider using tecsound between the drywall? I see a lot of videos of companies using that material, guess it’s a kind of a mlv product.
I used green glue so I am not too familiar with tecsound. My bet would be to research carefully if you go the mlv route. Green glue worked great and is highly recommended by the pros.
Did you not put a second double layer of drywall on the outer wall? Research seems to say that is the absolute best way to go about it. To clarify the walls being: OUTSIDE [outer-frame w/insulation-drywall (air gap) frame w/insulation-drywall] INSIDE
Hey Matt! thanks for watching. So yes technically if you had an inside wall inside a house it would be OUTSIDE two layers of drywall w/green glue frame with insulation and airgap and then frame insulation two layers of drywall with green glue. But since my studio is a stand alone structure we couldn't put drywall on the outside. Instead we have hardyplank and OBS board which is still pretty massive. I suppose you could put green glue on the outside in between the OBS and hardyplank. Does that answer your question?
No need to remove old drywall/sheeting if it is without holes. Just put the resilient channel on the old wall and you get an extra sound blocking layer
I’m not sure I would do that since changing the design changes the acoustic properties. Unless it is lab tested it is hard to say how it will work. Sometimes soundproofing is not intuitive.
Those clips don't seem to have any decoupling from your joists. Green glue has no real mass so you are better using a stuck on mass vinyl sheet between your acoustic boards.
The clips are specially designed to decouple your inside wall. They are sometimes called sway bracing. Green Glue performs better than MLV according to the lab tests done by a verified third party lab. Green glue acts as a damping agent and does not isolate using mass. Please let me know if that makes sense.
FREE Soundproofing Workshop: www.soundproofyourstudio.com/workshop
This is exactly how im building mine, after alot of research! You did it right! Nice Job and video
Awesome! Glad you did a ton of research. That is really what it takes. My goal is to hopefully shorten that research time.
Helpful video. The soundproofingcompany doesn't seem to have their own install videos. 4:26 it looks like you might have forgotten to use acoustic caulk in between the connection sheets, corners, and perimeter of the first layer of drywall? It looks like you mention it later on, but the video doesn't appear that it was done.
No I didn’t forget. Using the Rod Gervais method you only need acoustic caulk on the final layer. It is meant to creat the final air gap. One layer does that job. Two could be helpful, but also may waste time and money.
Please talk about the exterior layer, or at least the sheathing behind the siding. Are there multiple vapor barriers? It could cause water problems. Good explanation of tech in the interior wall assemblies diagrams I saw.
Yes I will make a video on that soon.
You only need IB-3 clips because you did a hat channel ceiling correct? With a double wall your ceiling, the inner ceiling should hold the inner walls in place?
Do you use acoustic caulk in all drywall corners, seems and joints? If so can you mud and tape over that?
I no longer use Ib3 clips the way I did. The walls once attached are sturdy enough. The double ceiling is even more sturdy. Yes, acoustic caulk all perimeter seems.
@@soundproofyourstudio Do you use mud and tape on the drywall seems and corners over the caulking? Or just caulking no mud?
Great video. did you do hat channel as well as double wall system, or just double wall? I may have misunderstood
Thanks for watching! I did a double wall system for my walls and used the hat channel system for my ceiling.
@@soundproofyourstudio awesome, thanks for the reply. Planning on doing a small built out in my basement in 5-6 months. Your content is great
Neyy I say on the green glue! 😂 I hate how it advertises that it turns sound into heat like thats some kind of special feature, when thats just the physics of sound hitting pretty much anything.
Spent nearly a decade working in Sheffield in multiple studios, all of them swear by a layer MLV or specialist techsound membrane in-between acoustic drywall over green glue/acoustic sealant.
Everything else in the video is spot on man 👌 great work!
You can't beat room within a room!
I agree! I have had a sudden realization that green glue works but is overkill. Although it does help in the low frequencies. I teach two layers of drywall but you could do a layer of MLV and a layer of drywall but I have no idea what the results would be. Thanks for watching.
Is there a big difference in soundproof Quilty using the double frame system compared to the hat Chanel system
Hey Nikolas, yes the double wall system is better. I recommend using it when possible. The hat channel system works too, but will not be as soundproof.
Question: Do you also screw on the second layer of Drywall or do you glue it only?
Good question! You definitely want to screw the second layer on as well. Use slightly longer screws so reach the studs and make sure you know where the studs are. If they are every 16" OC then you can use a measuring tape to keep track, but I would also recommend marking the 1st layer just in case so you know where those screws should go.
Any recommendations on how to apply the clips where the 2 walls meet in the corner and drywall overlap?
Great question. You need to add an extra stud to the furring channels don't sag. So yo add another stud next to the corner wall stud. Then add IB-1 clips to the new stud. Leave a .5 inch of furring channel hanging past the IB-1 clip. Now you have two channels meeting at a 90 degree angle in your corners. The soundproofing company has some great diagrams of how to do this.
Thank you so much you’re the best! I appreciate you spreading your knowledge in these videos in a way that’s easy to understand and follow
Thanks for the video! Question: Did you consider using tecsound between the drywall? I see a lot of videos of companies using that material, guess it’s a kind of a mlv product.
I used green glue so I am not too familiar with tecsound. My bet would be to research carefully if you go the mlv route. Green glue worked great and is highly recommended by the pros.
Did you not put a second double layer of drywall on the outer wall? Research seems to say that is the absolute best way to go about it.
To clarify the walls being:
OUTSIDE [outer-frame w/insulation-drywall (air gap) frame w/insulation-drywall] INSIDE
Hey Matt! thanks for watching. So yes technically if you had an inside wall inside a house it would be OUTSIDE two layers of drywall w/green glue frame with insulation and airgap and then frame insulation two layers of drywall with green glue. But since my studio is a stand alone structure we couldn't put drywall on the outside. Instead we have hardyplank and OBS board which is still pretty massive. I suppose you could put green glue on the outside in between the OBS and hardyplank. Does that answer your question?
@@soundproofyourstudio Oh, mine is a stand alone structure as well. I just saw you had 2 sheets of drywall instead of 4.
That is correct, although there are four sheets of drywall from the ventilation room to the studio.
@@soundproofyourstudio Great, thanks! I think I am going to hire a contractor to check over my designs.
What R value insulation did you use in your studio?
I believe it was R30
In the picture where the interior wall is framed, there is no insulation in the outer wall. Would you only insulate the inner wall?
Great question - the insulation will fill the cavity between both walls so you will not need separate bats of insulation for each wall.
Thanks for watching
No need to remove old drywall/sheeting if it is without holes.
Just put the resilient channel on the old wall and you get an extra sound blocking layer
I’m not sure I would do that since changing the design changes the acoustic properties. Unless it is lab tested it is hard to say how it will work. Sometimes soundproofing is not intuitive.
I want to do this over existing dry wall
Those clips don't seem to have any decoupling from your joists. Green glue has no real mass so you are better using a stuck on mass vinyl sheet between your acoustic boards.
The clips are specially designed to decouple your inside wall. They are sometimes called sway bracing. Green Glue performs better than MLV according to the lab tests done by a verified third party lab. Green glue acts as a damping agent and does not isolate using mass. Please let me know if that makes sense.
Great video. Do you have a comparison of before and after for sound outside of the studio? Or what DB you can hear outside of the studio?
Thanks
Using my phone decibel meter the average sound floor is 58db or so outside. The inside is 28db.
Soundproofing company is cheap. They say free consultation but they don’t give you one. Little bummed
Hi, are you talking about my free clarity call? Happy to help clarify what went wrong for you. Thanks.
$250 an hour for any kind of info