Very good video on not only fine woodworking but a lot of pro-tips in prep and finish steps. You deserve a lot more views and subs. I really like the internal torsion box style carcass which is lighter and yet more rigid than just an open frame
I watched Charles Neil prepare his full scale drawings for his projects on MDF as well. He was a real genuine nice guy. Did not mind strangers visiting his shop in the least.
For me, the biggest “take home” from this is how important preparation is if you want excellence. Starting with formalising the design (whether on paper or software like Sketchup); making full size templates through giving yourself plenty of time to prep the timber. In business, I had a motto that issued very often for colleagues preparing for potentially emotionally charged meetings - nobody ever came out of a meeting saying that “ I wish I had prepared less”. Almost never is prep time, wasted time. I’ve got the same shooting board - it really is an excellent tool. It seems like you, that I’m a sinister and so, as Tino only makes right handed boards, I use a low angle plane right handed; it took a little bit of getting used to. My Veritas shooting plane is a left handed version and I use that on my shop made left handed shooting board only for 90 degree angles. Yes, sinisters have to learn to be ambidextrous. I’ve got many of those aluminium cramps. I got a tip years ago to insert a piece of timber the length of the aluminium channel. It greatly increases the rigidity of the cramp I’m nearing the end of a large barn conversion and a son and I are 2nd fixing. All the details owe their design to the UK Arts and Crafts movement, US craftsmen style and are in oak (some solid, some edge banded ply or mdf). A lot of oak; currently £16,000 worth and maybe a bit more to come.
Fortunately, I wasn’t rushed by my client. The Cherry came from Pennsylvania…humid and I live in high desert. So I wanted the stuff to climatize well. That made me laugh! “I wish I had prepared less”! 😆 I love that shooting board. Recently, Tito said he’s making his last batch. Glad I have one. I like the aluminum clamps. They’re perfect for light clamping…I’ve never felt the need to add the hardwood inside. If I need heavier clamps I have bar clamps or even stronger, I-beam clamps. That barn conversion would be great to see! Thanks for your input always!
Great video Ramon! I love seeing how a true professional thinks about designing a piece for nice aesthetics and strength. And then using your skills to execute that design. I always learn something from you. Looking forward to the next one.
Thanks for your recommendation on that dead blow hammer. It's made by Halder Supercraft and Menard's currently has them on clearance. I picked up a 2lb one this morning.
@@ramonartful someone sent me over to your sight to check you out. A Tip Of My Hat To You! Love your site and tricks of the trade. Best Wishes to you and your loved ones in these trying times.
Hi Ramon. Very informative video. Two questions: 1) where and how were you trained? Or are you self taught 2) if there was twist when you checked with the winding sticks, how would you have adjusted it? Since it is all going together with mortise and tenon
I’m mostly self taught. I did take a marquetry course over several days with Craig Vandall Stevens…that inspired me greatly! This was fairly close to me at Anderson Ranch in Aspen, Colorado. Assembly of a large piece like this can easily acquire twist. Whenever possible it’s best to glue up & assemble on a known dead flat platform. On this particular piece, I had to roll it onto its back, ends etc during glue up. I didn’t want to dent it on a platform, so I chose to assemble it on the floor, on a clean carpet section. Then immediately after clamping, I checked with the winding sticks. It was slightly off and shimmed accordingly…rechecked and now perfect. Had it been glued with a twist, it would still have that twist! Such an important detail that should never be overlooked! Hope that helps. Much thanks.
Great video, always enjoy seeing your designs. When your making the shop plywood what is the purpose of adding a sheet of veneer in the middle, does this add extra strength to the glue up?.
Thank you. Yes…it creates rigidity to the normally flexible & thin pieces of store bought plywood. The added veneer grain direction is important (perpendicular to the adjacent plywood) as is the type of glue. I use epoxy here. Then the two outside face veneers were glued with regular Titebond I. If the panels were large, then I’d use a rigid glue for the face veneers…like Pro-glue, Unibond or even polyurethane glue (Gorilla) These glues lock veneer in place and won’t allow them to “creep”. But wish smallish panels like I have here, a PVA like Titebond I is fine. Thanks
Do you utilize any type of "drafting" table for your drawings? I always have good intentions of doing detailed drawings at the beginning of a build but have yet to find a system I like. I do use Sketchup but I prefer hand drawing like yourself.
I almost always draw something out…to get proportions correct and also to work out details. I used SketchUp at first but feel more familiar and connected when I draw it out…especially full size scale. This project has some areas with detail that is super tight! Hidden drawers! I’ll show more soon. Thanks man 🙏🏼
I really appreciate you're attention to detail in your joinery. Also the design is beautiful.
Thank you! I appreciate you checking out the video! Fun project
Pleasure to watch a gifted artist create
Man…that’s a compliment. I appreciate that
Looking good full sise drawings are the best way to go especially with crazy joinery
Yep…it’s a great way to fully understand wether or not it’ll work! Thanks
your one smart dude Ramon! Great design great build!
Thanks a ton…this was a super fun build!
That some quality construction and attention to detail Ramon, and a great design.
Thank you. I have a couple of surprises to share…soon
@@ramonartful I'm looking forward to that!
Well, you're answering the questions I was going to DM you 😉. Lots of great info and tips Ramon. Looking forward to part 2!
Like the way you match grain.
I use planks from the same tree and still scratch my head.😜
It’s cool to be able to use lumber front the same tree and index & match grain. Stressful too if I screw up and pieces no longer match! 😆 Much thanks.
Another great video, thanks for sharing
Thanks for checking it out!
The PantoRouter is a game changer. Love it. Great work as usual Sir.
I love every opportunity to use the Pantorouter…such a great machine. Thanks!
Very good video on not only fine woodworking but a lot of pro-tips in prep and finish steps. You deserve a lot more views and subs. I really like the internal torsion box style carcass which is lighter and yet more rigid than just an open frame
I love this method of creating strong but lightweight. Yes…you’re correct, like a torsion box! Much thanks.
My Sunday morning Ramon fix! Great construction which I will employ on future projects. Can't wait to see the finished piece. thanks
Thanks a lot ! I like hearing that the construction tips help.
beautiful work
Thanks Bill…it’s been an incredibly fun project
Man great video!
Awesome to hear…thanks!
I watched Charles Neil prepare his full scale drawings for his projects on MDF as well. He was a real genuine nice guy. Did not mind strangers visiting his shop in the least.
I love MDF for full sized layouts or detail shots. It takes pencil perfectly. Thanks for checking out the vid!
For me, the biggest “take home” from this is how important preparation is if you want excellence. Starting with formalising the design (whether on paper or software like Sketchup); making full size templates through giving yourself plenty of time to prep the timber. In business, I had a motto that issued very often for colleagues preparing for potentially emotionally charged meetings - nobody ever came out of a meeting saying that “ I wish I had prepared less”. Almost never is prep time, wasted time.
I’ve got the same shooting board - it really is an excellent tool. It seems like you, that I’m a sinister and so, as Tino only makes right handed boards, I use a low angle plane right handed; it took a little bit of getting used to. My Veritas shooting plane is a left handed version and I use that on my shop made left handed shooting board only for 90 degree angles. Yes, sinisters have to learn to be ambidextrous.
I’ve got many of those aluminium cramps. I got a tip years ago to insert a piece of timber the length of the aluminium channel. It greatly increases the rigidity of the cramp
I’m nearing the end of a large barn conversion and a son and I are 2nd fixing. All the details owe their design to the UK Arts and Crafts movement, US craftsmen style and are in oak (some solid, some edge banded ply or mdf). A lot of oak; currently £16,000 worth and maybe a bit more to come.
Fortunately, I wasn’t rushed by my client. The Cherry came from Pennsylvania…humid and I live in high desert. So I wanted the stuff to climatize well.
That made me laugh! “I wish I had prepared less”! 😆
I love that shooting board. Recently, Tito said he’s making his last batch. Glad I have one.
I like the aluminum clamps. They’re perfect for light clamping…I’ve never felt the need to add the hardwood inside. If I need heavier clamps I have bar clamps or even stronger, I-beam clamps.
That barn conversion would be great to see!
Thanks for your input always!
Great video Ramon! I love seeing how a true professional thinks about designing a piece for nice aesthetics and strength. And then using your skills to execute that design. I always learn something from you. Looking forward to the next one.
I’m super glad to hear all that! Thanks for checking out the video!
Enjoy watching a pro think through his process; I didn’t capture who you got your shooting board from-do you mind sharing? Thanks!
Thank you! I just found out that he’s not making em anymore! His name is Tico Vogt. I left his website in my description. Maybe he still has some.
Thanks for your recommendation on that dead blow hammer. It's made by Halder Supercraft and Menard's currently has them on clearance. I picked up a 2lb one this morning.
You’re right! It is a Halder. It’s barely legible on the handle. I love that thing. Thanks
@@ramonartful someone sent me over to your sight to check you out. A Tip Of My Hat To You! Love your site and tricks of the trade. Best Wishes to you and your loved ones in these trying times.
@@donniegombel Thank you for the good words...I appreciate it! And welcome to my channel! And thanks to whomever sent you
Hi Ramon. Very informative video. Two questions:
1) where and how were you trained? Or are you self taught
2) if there was twist when you checked with the winding sticks, how would you have adjusted it? Since it is all going together with mortise and tenon
I’m mostly self taught. I did take a marquetry course over several days with Craig Vandall Stevens…that inspired me greatly! This was fairly close to me at Anderson Ranch in Aspen, Colorado.
Assembly of a large piece like this can easily acquire twist. Whenever possible it’s best to glue up & assemble on a known dead flat platform. On this particular piece, I had to roll it onto its back, ends etc during glue up. I didn’t want to dent it on a platform, so I chose to assemble it on the floor, on a clean carpet section. Then immediately after clamping, I checked with the winding sticks. It was slightly off and shimmed accordingly…rechecked and now perfect.
Had it been glued with a twist, it would still have that twist! Such an important detail that should never be overlooked!
Hope that helps. Much thanks.
That is some amazing cherry got some great tips to beautiful design. Bty what's up with the pencil on your shirt I want one thanks for the video
Thanks a lot for watching! Oh…the pencil? ✏️I use two magnets ! 🧲 Been doing this since the late 80’s! Super convenient way to always have a pencil!
Great video, always enjoy seeing your designs. When your making the shop plywood what is the purpose of adding a sheet of veneer in the middle, does this add extra strength to the glue up?.
Thank you. Yes…it creates rigidity to the normally flexible & thin pieces of store bought plywood. The added veneer grain direction is important (perpendicular to the adjacent plywood) as is the type of glue. I use epoxy here. Then the two outside face veneers were glued with regular Titebond I. If the panels were large, then I’d use a rigid glue for the face veneers…like Pro-glue, Unibond or even polyurethane glue (Gorilla) These glues lock veneer in place and won’t allow them to “creep”. But wish smallish panels like I have here, a PVA like Titebond I is fine. Thanks
What product did you spray on? Guess you taped over surfaces to be glued first?
I used lacquer on everything except the counter tops. And yes…all glue areas get masked off. Thanks
Do you utilize any type of "drafting" table for your drawings? I always have good intentions of doing detailed drawings at the beginning of a build but have yet to find a system I like. I do use Sketchup but I prefer hand drawing like yourself.
I almost always draw something out…to get proportions correct and also to work out details. I used SketchUp at first but feel more familiar and connected when I draw it out…especially full size scale. This project has some areas with detail that is super tight! Hidden drawers! I’ll show more soon. Thanks man 🙏🏼
Your opinion-would dominos work in this application? I’m about to build writing desk and debating to use dominos (DF 500) or floating tenons. Thanks
Sure. Depending on the size of the writing desk components, I’d shoot for larger M & T’s. Sub-assemblies work well for managing glue ups. Thanks