Do you happen to know what the actual running watts are? I live offgrid, printing during the day is no problem. But a long print time that runs into the night could be. I've been debating between upgrading my printer, either sticking with fdm or changing to resin.
That's really hard to say because it depends on HE temp and bed temp versus ambient air. Also stepper draw isn't static either, moves vary by print. It uses a creality power supply that is 350 watts 24VDC (very common on these style printers). Most have a HE that is a 40W @ 24vDC cartridge and beds in this size range are usually around 200W @ 24vDC. Those pulse on and off to maintain temp so initial warm up draws the most continuous current then overal current decreases. Enclosing it in cooler months would draw less current.
I did a test using an adaptor that measures actual power used. From a cold start I did a print that took 1 hour and 17 minutes. In that time the printer used 0.17kw hours.
@@myfordboy ok, if you're using 110v, that's a little over 1.5 amps. In England you'd be using 220v so a little over .77 amps. My offgrid system can handle that. May be time to upgrade my printer.
Im super impressed you are still making videos I just randomly found on elf your metal casting videos from 12 years ago Edit: You have been making videos as long as iv been alive wow
Your an engineer? The X axis rods float in those brass fittings, they also float in the bearing holders at the top, they don't have to be precisely parallel to the frame.. Yes the Vertical frames should be close to parallel. I own this printer, and it has several issues, but you didn't point out any of them. I would have loved to see you showing us how to make the X-axis rail parallel to the top and bottom of the frame.
I think when you reviewed the 2nd one, you modified it. The major mod was, you added supports for the uprights, and it made it very tight. Is this gone be modified in anyway?
I always enjoy your videos. I especially like your casting work. I did some brass and aluminum castings in my welding class at the local college last century. That's a fun little toy at the end.
This sovol looks the same as the Enders3 but with an extra Z motor and direct drive for which i think is far better and wish I got a SOvol instead as I had to rebuild my Enders 3v2 to get perfect prints at an extra cost of Auto bed levelling and run out sensor and bowden gear upgrades . Even changed the firmware . Anyway Thank you Myfordboy for sharing and you made me chuckle at the end with the minion.
I have the original sv-01 and the darn thing is so out of square. Especially the x- gantry relative to the build plate, making the print head have an almost 3 - 4mm difference in height from end to end of its travel. I've tried everything (including what Sovol recommend in a video here on YT), but for the life of me, I can't get it to align properly. Whatever I do, it just snaps back to the position it wants to be. I was only able to get some partially decent prints by manually compensating for that difference with the leveling knobs, something I had to do almost before every print, which was a torture really. After installing an ABL system I'm now somewhat better off, but still wouldn't recommend that machine to anyone who wants something working reliably right out of the box.
I belive all printers in this price need a bit of adustment to get the best performance. Here are the tweeks i did to my SV01 ruclips.net/video/ilezW1FQ_JU/видео.html
Yes another Creality E3 v2 copy , it does have some nice features like dual Z axis screws , direct drive extruder, flex print surface, bed levelling and touch screen though ! They use the Creality board which is 32 bit and silent driver , would like to know if thermal runaway is active though and if the firmware is available if not . First thing i would do is check the thermal runaway and then link the Z axis screws with a belt so the can't lose synchronization. Every printer i have ever had i have had to fettle a little so nothing new her in that regards . Couldn't ever justify $3k on a printer - maybe a mill or lathe but never a printer ! Thanks for the video MB !
Thank you for posting your review of the SV01 Pro. There's been a lot of hype from SOVOL on the release of the SV01 Pro. I've been printing with my first SV01 for about a year and have it pretty much dialed-in. The SV01 Pro is my 2nd printer and while I was looking forward to its bells and whistles compared to the SV01, it is a disappointment 2 weeks out of the box. Its print quality so far is inferior compared to my SV01. There are some very nice features like the touch screen and UI, but the auto leveling is still a mystery to me and the instructions in the manual are no help. I know, there's a zillion vids on RUclips about setting the z-offset, but what is the process that you use for auto leveling with the CR touch? That section of your vid was not very detailed and it is not a 1-step process as shown. I think auto leveling is where my SV01 Pro still needs tuning. My benchy came out with a pronounced foot. I am also getting peculiar adhesion/over-temp issues at the hexagonal border of the printer bed insulation. My SV01 with its manual auto leveling and glass bed had none of these issues straight out of the box.
I just followed the instructions on page 10 of the manual to level the bed and have not touched it since. 1. Click Leveling, the printer will start initial leveling, x y z axis will auto home, the CR touch will probe in the center. 2. When the CR Touch stop to probe, put a piece of A4 paper between the nozzle and the hotbed, click -Z or Z+ to move the extruder down or up to adjust the distance between the nozzle and the hotbed, click Save.(Drag the paper, When you feel the nozzle can scratch the paper slightly, that means the distance is perfect.) 3. After leveling, click AUX Leveling, then click 2，3， 4， 5 to level the 4 corners in turns. Before clicking, put the A4 paper on the hotbed, adjust the distance between the nozzle and the hotbed by rotating the leveling wheels. It is suggested to repeat this step 2-3 times for perfect bed leveling. (To achieve the desired hot bed level, perform step 2 again after step 3, verify, and click Save.) 4. Last, click Auto leveling for 16 points leveling, it will probe the hotbed by 4 * 4 , the leveling data can be seen on the screen. 10
You mean to operate it? Children these days are muych better at tech than old guys like me. You need computer skills but it's pretty simple to download a model file, slice and print.
You also print the walking memo! It's really interesting😂Glad you like the SV01 PRO
What are the options for file transfer? USB cable, WiFi, sd card?
Micro SD and direct connection to PC as standard. No built in WiFi but you can add this with a raspberry pi and use Octoprint.
Thanks, looks like a very nice printer for the reasonable price.
Do you happen to know what the actual running watts are? I live offgrid, printing during the day is no problem. But a long print time that runs into the night could be. I've been debating between upgrading my printer, either sticking with fdm or changing to resin.
That's really hard to say because it depends on HE temp and bed temp versus ambient air. Also stepper draw isn't static either, moves vary by print. It uses a creality power supply that is 350 watts 24VDC (very common on these style printers). Most have a HE that is a 40W @ 24vDC cartridge and beds in this size range are usually around 200W @ 24vDC. Those pulse on and off to maintain temp so initial warm up draws the most continuous current then overal current decreases.
Enclosing it in cooler months would draw less current.
@@dev-debug thanks
I did a test using an adaptor that measures actual power used. From a cold start I did a print that took 1 hour and 17 minutes. In that time the printer used 0.17kw hours.
@@myfordboy ok, if you're using 110v, that's a little over 1.5 amps. In England you'd be using 220v so a little over .77 amps. My offgrid system can handle that. May be time to upgrade my printer.
Im super impressed you are still making videos I just randomly found on elf your metal casting videos from 12 years ago
Edit: You have been making videos as long as iv been alive wow
Your an engineer? The X axis rods float in those brass fittings, they also float in the bearing holders at the top, they don't have to be precisely parallel to the frame.. Yes the Vertical frames should be close to parallel. I own this printer, and it has several issues, but you didn't point out any of them. I would have loved to see you showing us how to make the X-axis rail parallel to the top and bottom of the frame.
the end took a laugh out of me..that was funny
I think when you reviewed the 2nd one, you modified it. The major mod was, you added supports for the uprights, and it made it very tight. Is this gone be modified in anyway?
I have a design for diagonal bracing. The parts can be printed with the printer. I'll do a video when fitted.
@@myfordboy Ah cool looking forward to the video.
I always enjoy your videos. I especially like your casting work. I did some brass and aluminum castings in my welding class at the local college last century. That's a fun little toy at the end.
How much Quieter is the SV01pro vs SV01?
You can only hear the fans really.
Excellent bit of kit, I wish I had the brains to use one, your grandaughter is going to have a lot of toys. 😂
This sovol looks the same as the Enders3 but with an extra Z motor and direct drive for which i think is far better and wish I got a SOvol instead as I had to rebuild my Enders 3v2 to get perfect prints at an extra cost of Auto bed levelling and run out sensor and bowden gear upgrades .
Even changed the firmware .
Anyway Thank you Myfordboy for sharing and you made me chuckle at the end with the minion.
I am tempted to purchase one... but doing my best to resist - lol...
Thanks for sharing 👍
Funny watching the healing progression of your thumb nail.
A very nice bit of kit 👍👍👍 Loved the Minion at the end 😂
looks very well-designed. more robust than Prusa
I have the original sv-01 and the darn thing is so out of square. Especially the x- gantry relative to the build plate, making the print head have an almost 3 - 4mm difference in height from end to end of its travel. I've tried everything (including what Sovol recommend in a video here on YT), but for the life of me, I can't get it to align properly. Whatever I do, it just snaps back to the position it wants to be. I was only able to get some partially decent prints by manually compensating for that difference with the leveling knobs, something I had to do almost before every print, which was a torture really. After installing an ABL system I'm now somewhat better off, but still wouldn't recommend that machine to anyone who wants something working reliably right out of the box.
I belive all printers in this price need a bit of adustment to get the best performance. Here are the tweeks i did to my SV01 ruclips.net/video/ilezW1FQ_JU/видео.html
Yes another Creality E3 v2 copy , it does have some nice features like dual Z axis screws , direct drive extruder, flex print surface, bed levelling and touch screen though !
They use the Creality board which is 32 bit and silent driver , would like to know if thermal runaway is active though and if the firmware is available if not .
First thing i would do is check the thermal runaway and then link the Z axis screws with a belt so the can't lose synchronization.
Every printer i have ever had i have had to fettle a little so nothing new her in that regards .
Couldn't ever justify $3k on a printer - maybe a mill or lathe but never a printer !
Thanks for the video MB !
It's much nicer than Ender 3 v2, cleaner lines, direct drive, better display etc.
How satisfied are you with the Sovol?
Can you recommend him?
What would you do better?
Highly reccomend.
I have tried many different brands but the Sovol ones come out tops.
Any chance you can release STLs for the braces and shims?
Thank you!
I have not added them to this printer yet. I have a design in mind and wil share when ready.
Thank you for posting your review of the SV01 Pro. There's been a lot of hype from SOVOL on the release of the SV01 Pro. I've been printing with my first SV01 for about a year and have it pretty much dialed-in. The SV01 Pro is my 2nd printer and while I was looking forward to its bells and whistles compared to the SV01, it is a disappointment 2 weeks out of the box.
Its print quality so far is inferior compared to my SV01. There are some very nice features like the touch screen and UI, but the auto leveling is still a mystery to me and the instructions in the manual are no help. I know, there's a zillion vids on RUclips about setting the z-offset, but what is the process that you use for auto leveling with the CR touch? That section of your vid was not very detailed and it is not a 1-step process as shown.
I think auto leveling is where my SV01 Pro still needs tuning. My benchy came out with a pronounced foot. I am also getting peculiar adhesion/over-temp issues at the hexagonal border of the printer bed insulation. My SV01 with its manual auto leveling and glass bed had none of these issues straight out of the box.
I just followed the instructions on page 10 of the manual to level the bed and have not touched it since.
1. Click Leveling, the printer will start initial leveling, x y z axis will auto home, the CR touch will probe in the center.
2. When the CR Touch stop to probe, put a piece of A4 paper between the nozzle and the hotbed, click -Z or Z+ to move the extruder down
or up to adjust the distance between the nozzle and the hotbed, click Save.(Drag the paper, When you feel the nozzle can scratch the
paper slightly, that means the distance is perfect.)
3. After leveling, click AUX Leveling, then click 2，3， 4， 5 to level the 4 corners in turns. Before clicking, put the A4 paper on the hotbed,
adjust the distance between the nozzle and the hotbed by rotating the leveling wheels. It is suggested to repeat this step 2-3 times for
perfect bed leveling. (To achieve the desired hot bed level, perform step 2 again after step 3, verify, and click Save.)
4. Last, click Auto leveling for 16 points leveling, it will probe the hotbed by 4 * 4 , the leveling data can be seen on the screen.
10
You can adjut the Z height once printing has started. Tap the icon top right of the screen, adjust + or- then save.
Is it better than creality ender 3 pro ?
I don't have an Ender 3 Pro but I think the comment by spudnick1uk answers your question.
What child age group would a printer like this require.
You mean to operate it? Children these days are muych better at tech than old guys like me. You need computer skills but it's pretty simple to download a model file, slice and print.
Whaaa what is that walking thing print
The link is in the description below the video.
@@myfordboy Thanks!
Is it safe?
sure, you could join the sovol user group to see more feedbacks😊facebook.com/groups/sovol3d
Of course.