@@mikeledee8786 I’m not sure exactly what part you’re referring to, but you could be looking at the layer responsible for engraving the labels around the cut test. If that’s the case, then the purpose of that is just to make the cut test easier to read. If that doesn’t answer your question, then I’d suggest watching the power/speed test crash course video that was published on my RUclips channel earlier this year. Cheers.
Very Interesting.. I'm torn between xTool S1 10w or the Omtech K40+ I'm really looking for something to make models for my model railroad.. So Laserboard 0.015" or 0.020" is probably the main material... Then maybe some thin white acrylic. Fine detail is the key as I model in N Gauge which is very small!!
Generally I'd lean towards a diode machine like the S1, but if you need to do white acrylic a co2 machine will probably work a lot better for that. Anyway, best of luck making your final call!
@@asherdiy Thanks for the advice. It's hard to find information as very few people use them specifically for Model Railroads.. People tend to use them for making other things and to make money from them. I want a good machine.. I just don't need to go over kill!! the k40+ is $300 cheaper than the S1. I believe it has a better accuracy as well being CO2... but all need to me.. :) Thanks again.
@@CGngauge - just one note to add here: co2 does not necessarily equal more accuracy. In fact, diode lasers are often more accurate, because the size of the beam is smaller, allowing the laser to be more precise on engravings. Definitely fair on the price though, lasers can get pricey fast.
@@asherdiy Thank you.. for the guidance.. I've subscribed and look forward to your other videos you have planned for the series. Most of the modelling will be Laserboard. Again.. it's a learning curve as I model out of Polystyrene sheets and I know that can;t be laser cut... So figuring this all out to get the right machine that will do what I need.. :)
Yes I would - I literally used it for 4+ hours today on a 40W Xtool D1 Pro. I have the 20W also, and it should work great for that too. And if you do decide to go for it, you can use my affiliate link if you'd like Amazon to send me a few bucks: amzn.to/40f3FQr
i'm considering getting the P2S. do u recommend an air compressor for that or is the built in air assist sufficient? i'm a newbie so pardon me if stupid question.
Hi - not a stupid question at all. I suggest you watch my XTool P2 review. it’s the most recent video on my channel, and it touches on your question about the P2S.
@@jonmackie3859 yeah, sorry about the confusion. I’m not sure why RUclips shows it like that in the playlist. But those videos are just not out yet, so they’ll pop up over the next couple weeks until all 6 are published.
@@Enjoythevue are you asking if paper can be engraved? If yes, then it is possible, and I’ve done it myself with thick linen blend paper. You can see the photo album video on my channel for an example. You’ve got to be careful with paper though, because it can catch on fire if things aren’t quite right. I also only use plain non-coated/non-painted papers because I don’t know what kind of fumes other kinds might generate. Hope that helps!
Learn laser engraving the simple way: asherdiy.com/bootcamp/
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Love what you're doing here Asher! I look forward to following along and likely pointing others to it as a resource!
Hey @Vintauri - I take that as a huge compliment, since I've watched quite a few of your laser videos. Thanks for the comment!
Excellent! I will stay tuned.
Sound advice and well explained. Nice job!
Thanks, John! That's great to hear!
Very helpful. Thanks!
Love your videos!
Wow, thank you for this!
Wonderful, thank you
I wanted to know the power and speed settings when engraving on bamboo
Great! Thx
I downloaded your cut/engraved files, thank you. Why does the cut settings have engraved settings also?
@@mikeledee8786 I’m not sure exactly what part you’re referring to, but you could be looking at the layer responsible for engraving the labels around the cut test. If that’s the case, then the purpose of that is just to make the cut test easier to read. If that doesn’t answer your question, then I’d suggest watching the power/speed test crash course video that was published on my RUclips channel earlier this year. Cheers.
Very Interesting.. I'm torn between xTool S1 10w or the Omtech K40+ I'm really looking for something to make models for my model railroad.. So Laserboard 0.015" or 0.020" is probably the main material... Then maybe some thin white acrylic. Fine detail is the key as I model in N Gauge which is very small!!
Generally I'd lean towards a diode machine like the S1, but if you need to do white acrylic a co2 machine will probably work a lot better for that. Anyway, best of luck making your final call!
@@asherdiy Thanks for the advice. It's hard to find information as very few people use them specifically for Model Railroads.. People tend to use them for making other things and to make money from them. I want a good machine.. I just don't need to go over kill!! the k40+ is $300 cheaper than the S1. I believe it has a better accuracy as well being CO2... but all need to me.. :) Thanks again.
@@CGngauge - just one note to add here: co2 does not necessarily equal more accuracy. In fact, diode lasers are often more accurate, because the size of the beam is smaller, allowing the laser to be more precise on engravings.
Definitely fair on the price though, lasers can get pricey fast.
@@asherdiy Thank you.. for the guidance.. I've subscribed and look forward to your other videos you have planned for the series.
Most of the modelling will be Laserboard. Again.. it's a learning curve as I model out of Polystyrene sheets and I know that can;t be laser cut... So figuring this all out to get the right machine that will do what I need.. :)
Would you recommend that CAT air compressor and 25-30 PSI for an xTool D1 Pro 20w set up?
Yes I would - I literally used it for 4+ hours today on a 40W Xtool D1 Pro. I have the 20W also, and it should work great for that too. And if you do decide to go for it, you can use my affiliate link if you'd like Amazon to send me a few bucks: amzn.to/40f3FQr
i'm considering getting the P2S. do u recommend an air compressor for that or is the built in air assist sufficient? i'm a newbie so pardon me if stupid question.
Hi - not a stupid question at all. I suggest you watch my XTool P2 review. it’s the most recent video on my channel, and it touches on your question about the P2S.
Why can't I get to video 4,5 and 6? RUclips shows them as hidden.
@@jonmackie3859 yeah, sorry about the confusion. I’m not sure why RUclips shows it like that in the playlist. But those videos are just not out yet, so they’ll pop up over the next couple weeks until all 6 are published.
How about paper or tissue paper?
@@Enjoythevue are you asking if paper can be engraved? If yes, then it is possible, and I’ve done it myself with thick linen blend paper. You can see the photo album video on my channel for an example. You’ve got to be careful with paper though, because it can catch on fire if things aren’t quite right. I also only use plain non-coated/non-painted papers because I don’t know what kind of fumes other kinds might generate. Hope that helps!
I’ve never tried tissue paper, but my guess is that would be pretty difficult to engrave without it catching fire, since the sheets are so thin.
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Lots of blah blah before getting to the point. Trim down the content. Good ideas.