Man, the same personality that makes you a great motorcycle instructor also makes you a great video personality. If you did a video on swatting flies it would be a winner. You are a seriously calm and straight forward person and it comes through to your audience. Thanks for sharing.
That's a great match of color. I would sand that non catalysed clear off to avoid issues with your final product. As much as that sucks, it's better than starting all over in my opinion. Glad to see you put yourself out there and learn! We all will learn from you (your little mistake here) yet again.
Hi Jerry, I've been an auto paint technician at a very high rated collision repair shop for 30 years,although I'm not familiar with the product your using I do know (from experience)that putting a catalized clear over a non catalyzed clear over a product that should have a harder in could cause you a huge problem, I would go talk to the supplier you bought the paint from. That is my advice
@@motorman857 sometimes you might might have to re base coat after sanding, if your base coat is a metallic you can what we call (burn the metallics)when you sand into them and if you don't fix that the clear will magnify it....and you won't be happy, good luck
Thank you for the video. I have to do a lot of my own things due to $$$. Plus I like doing things. We learn by watch others and by watching their mistakes. Thanks for including them. I have all of your DVDs and watch your RUclips channel a lot. I tell other riders about you too. I hope to one day be able to take your class. I know that you have a RideLikeAPro class in Colorado Springs. One of these days .......
Don't feel bad. When I worked at a bus company, they had painted a whole bus without adding the catalyst. I walked in one day and was almost knocked out by the smell of M.E.K. Guys were soaking rags in M.E.K. and wiping paint off of the bus. Needless to day, it was a job to wipe it all off. I was only there for a few seconds. I can't imagine the health effects those poor guys suffered.
Jerry, you should sand off the non-catalyzed layer of paint. Adding more product overtop non hardened paint may cause trouble latter when exposed to heat & UV. My other tip is to start spraying BEFORE passing over & continue to spray AFTER what you are painting. I’ve been a Mercedes Autobody tech for 30 years & would be honored to give you painting advice.
I did sand the non-catalyzed clear off the tour pack before putting another coat on it. This video is over a year old. The tour pack did wind up coming out pretty good. ruclips.net/video/fmlC_r8F9og/видео.html Thanks for the tips though. I can use all the help I can get from someone who knows what they're doing. I might paint the black side panels blue. Do you think I need to prime them over the factory base coat/clear coat? Or just sand them?
After scuffing surface with (red) Scochbrite pad, you will not need to prime. But to insure you will not have any issues, I would advise you to use a sealer before applying new paint Jerry.
Just getting ready to paint my new lower fairing covers. And saw your video pop up when looking for guidance. Of course I'm going to watch Motorman show me how, havent led me astray yet😁, riding, washing and detailing now painting! Could it get any better?🤔😁😁 Thanks Jerry!
I'm no body guy, but I'd be concerned that that layer of clear will never "cure", and if you spray over it, it will not bond correctly. If it were me, I'd wet sand it with 400 or 600 grit and re-do the clear altogether. Hopefully some experienced painters will chime in.
@@motorman857 Without knowing what you are painting with I'd recommend it. Hop over here www.autobody101.com/forums/ and ask these guys. You'll need to tell them what type paint you're using, a single stage acrylic enamel, lacquer or epoxy. My guess is you're using SSAE. If you do wind up sanding it off you'd be best to wet sand with 400 and apply another coat of color if it's metal flake. Sanding, wet or dry, doesn't agree with metal flake.
Mr Jerry you know how I feel about HD and there over priced Bikes & Parts , If you only have $300.00 in this TP & Paint you done well vs HD $1,600.00 and you can always fix the paint later if needed , an I think Viking has some decent looking Tour Pac's .
Jerry, I love you man so please take this the way it's meant. Stick with teaching people how to ride. You're not a painter...LOL Absolutely sand off the non catalyzed clear coat off. Make sure you get all of it off without going thru the color coat. Re-spray it with at least 4 coats of clear and this time..."Pull the Pin"...LOL. You should have a wet edge to edge spray and it should be pretty damn glossy when your done. If it dries molted or semi-flat you didn't spray it wet enough. Either way, you still have to wet sand. Start with 800 and then go up to 1000, 1200, 1400. Once your done with wet sanding , rubbing compound it first and then polishing compound it. Use a foam buff on a rotary buffer but keep the speed slow...You do not want to polish fast... then wait at least 30 days and Ceramic Coat it...Done
Hey Jerry! Did you paint the inside of the pack, or just exterior? I’m debating whether to take the pack apart and paint the lid and base separate. My colour is River Rock Denim. And what is the difference between wet sanding and dry sanding.
So it dried without the catalyst? I would imagine it would be ok to clear over it. If it sands ok, you may want to wet sand the hiccups out and then reclear it. And yes, you are correct about putting on extra clear if you have some sanding to do. I had a nasty fisheye problem for a while and when they’d appear, I’d lay on an extra clear-coat and then sand them out. But you need the catalyst. You’ll have durability issues without it. I’ve goofed up plenty in 30 years of shooting automotive paint, but so far haven’t forgotten the hardener.LOL. So you have a wool compounding pad and compound? If you know how to buff well, you can make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear. Lots of good RUclips videos on buffing and color sanding.
Yes it's dry to the touch but it has a lot of texture/orange peel. I'm not sure that it's a hardener that releases when you pull the ring at the bottom of the can or just a chemical that gets mixed in. If I wet sand it, how long should I wait to spray the clear?
You can spray right away after sanding. Just clean it up well. I’d test a small area with wax & grease remover. Test an inconspicuous area to Make sure the cleaner does not affect the paint. Then go ahead and wipe it down and shoot it. Catalyst and hardener are pretty much the same thing. Good luck!
Hey Jerry , the clear is a two part system the ring releases the hardener in the can. I would let that coat dry a day them lay down a couple more coats of clear, that should smooth out the orange peel. @@motorman857
Now that you have had it for over a year, would you recommend it over the Harley tour pack based on the savings. I take long 2 up trips, so I need one that is sturdy and will last. But I also don’t want to overpay.
Awesome!! I’m wondering when you’re done if you will post all of the expenses. You referenced that the paint is expensive but didn’t say how much. Also, include how many hours you’ve worked on this. I’m curious (as I’m sure other subscribers are) if there is that much difference between the HD that’s complete vs this one you’ve made. And it is coming out remarkably well. Doing your own thing can be rewarding in so many ways-beyond $$$.
I did say how much the paint was. 92 bucks for 2 cans of base, 2 cans of mid color and 2 cans of clear. About 5 hours of labor so far, and 20 bucks in paper. If I could have found a matching color at the auto parts store, the paint would have been about 35 dollars.
Hi sir! How many litres of paint did u use for this box? Im doing the same project for my vstar 1900 later on this year! Regards Roger Martinsen Sweden
What color is this , I had a shop do Pacific blue in 2000 on my 1986 flt , Im thinking of doing my Road king the same color . Looks great out of a can . House of color has cans .
On police bikes it's called impact blue but on civilian models it's called electric blue. Electric blue is easier to find and is listed on many color match sites but they are exactly the same color.
2 cans of base and 2 cans of clear. If you use automotive paint from usa.specialistpaints.com/pages/contact It will last as long as the stock paint. Tell them I sent you.
Just go on ebay and type in razor tour pack. There's a bunch of sellers all selling the same thing. I paid 200 bucks with the backrest and free shipping.
I have no idea. I purchased it from amazon or ebay but I don't recall the seller. If you want a quality tour pack, go with advanblack.com Otherwise, the tour packs are hit and miss as far as quality.
With all due respect you probably know a number of custom body shop owners in your area and had them paint it for a few bucks you could have mentioned their shop on your videos.
Actually, I don't know anyone at any body shops. But, having once done this before, I was sure I could do it again. And I will. Sure I could pay someone else to do it. But I wouldn't learn anything doing it that way and none of my viewers would either.
Ray Locke Really? I'm not sure if you're referring to Jerry's bike or if it was your own! IMHO, your comment is totally useless and simply one that should have stated where it originated - in your own head. I THINK he did the right thing by color matching to his bike. I THINK it would have looked hideous leaving it black. Just MY thoughts.
@@motorman857 I painted cars for 17 years before Law Enforcement. New and updated sanding systems are great so there’s no chasing that pesky water drip that wants to come out of hiding in your first or second coat of clear.. the tour pack looked good though. I’m gonna do the same ( with a rattle can) since I sold all my paint equipment 12 years ago. Is there a link for the paint materials you used? Have a great day Mr. Jerry
@@motorman857 Thanks Mr. Jerry. Now, I have been out of the loop since 2009 but there were several companies like 3M, Mirka and other "automotive" supply companies making the switch to waterless sanding because the sanding sludge would enter the storm drain system. The chemical compositions of the catalyzed paint systems contain carcinogens. The systems were expensive then but I dont know about now. My suggestion would be to speak with the paint reps at the local automotive paint store for the most up to date methods.. Water sanding is stiil performed all over but to me its just a little more messy and time consuming. I used to have small problems with water that would sneak out on the first coat or second coat of clear and boy is that frustrating. And a little bit of info, water sanding with P grade paper is more aggressive than dry sanding with A grade paper. If you use P400 wet, step it down to P600 and you can paint over those scratches without fear of sand scratch swelling after curing. Hope this is useful. Thanks again sir.
Use 2k clear coat on top from spraymax 20 a can but worth it I painted my bars triple tress and frame came out like glass . Same as that but you push in the harder with a button .would sand it to get rid of the clear and reclear it. Takes like 2 days to dry than wet sand 1500 than 2000 . Then buff it out with 3m perfect it compound worth the money and will work great on all your bikes . It was my first paint job and I can see my reflection like a mirror and that with white as a color. Ebay has everything you need. ......good luck John
2K clear is what I used and forgot to pull out that ring to activate. I just spent an hour sanding it off. That caused a couple of edges. So now, I'll give it another coat of base and another coat of the mid paint before clearing again.
@@motorman857 stay away from the edges when sanding I did the same thing . The 3m perfect it compound made a huge difference in the final result do you have a buffer ? I think I paid 30 for the compound but it was worth every penny ! Don't forget to let the clear to dry for 48 hours before wet sanding......good luck!
This is exactly what I am going to do to my tour pack. I think for the amount of time I use it, the color out of the can/color matched should be fine.
Man, the same personality that makes you a great motorcycle instructor also makes you a great video personality. If you did a video on swatting flies it would be a winner. You are a seriously calm and straight forward person and it comes through to your audience. Thanks for sharing.
That’s the best spray can paint job I’ve ever seen, good job.
ruclips.net/video/31LjgM3Dk_Y/видео.html
Check this out
so overall, are you suggesting now to get the cans of spray paint with the push button on the bottom that mixes the two materials together?
Yes.
That's a great match of color. I would sand that non catalysed clear off to avoid issues with your final product. As much as that sucks, it's better than starting all over in my opinion. Glad to see you put yourself out there and learn! We all will learn from you (your little mistake here) yet again.
Thanks.
Why didn't you remove the hinges and latch?
How many cans to paint that?
Great job! Thanks for sharing!
Colorite?
Hi Jerry, I've been an auto paint technician at a very high rated collision repair shop for 30 years,although I'm not familiar with the product your using I do know (from experience)that putting a catalized clear over a non catalyzed clear over a product that should have a harder in could cause you a huge problem, I would go talk to the supplier you bought the paint from. That is my advice
I did just that. They said, wet sand it off, and re-clear.
@@motorman857 sometimes you might might have to re base coat after sanding, if your base coat is a metallic you can what we call (burn the metallics)when you sand into them and if you don't fix that the clear will magnify it....and you won't be happy, good luck
Just sitting waiting for the release of MotorMan’s “Paint Like A Pro” video series.
Waiting? This was it!
That match looks awesome. I'll have to remember that custome cans producer. Good idea.
what the name of the pant and color
Thank you for the video. I have to do a lot of my own things due to $$$. Plus I like doing things. We learn by watch others and by watching their mistakes. Thanks for including them. I have all of your DVDs and watch your RUclips channel a lot. I tell other riders about you too. I hope to one day be able to take your class. I know that you have a RideLikeAPro class in Colorado Springs. One of these days .......
Being the perfectionsist that you are,start over because without the hardener the paint wont cure properly.
How dare you call me a perfectionist! I'm a SEMI, perfectionist! So there.
@@motorman857 I stand corrected Jerry.Keep up the good work.
Saw the run
Don't feel bad. When I worked at a bus company, they had painted a whole bus without adding the catalyst. I walked in one day and was almost knocked out by the smell of M.E.K. Guys were soaking rags in M.E.K. and wiping paint off of the bus. Needless to day, it was a job to wipe it all off. I was only there for a few seconds. I can't imagine the health effects those poor guys suffered.
wow looks great!! great job!!
Jerry, you should sand off the non-catalyzed layer of paint. Adding more product overtop non hardened paint may cause trouble latter when exposed to heat & UV.
My other tip is to start spraying BEFORE passing over & continue to spray AFTER what you are painting.
I’ve been a Mercedes Autobody tech for 30 years & would be honored to give you painting advice.
I did sand the non-catalyzed clear off the tour pack before putting another coat on it. This video is over a year old. The tour pack did wind up coming out pretty good. ruclips.net/video/fmlC_r8F9og/видео.html Thanks for the tips though. I can use all the help I can get from someone who knows what they're doing. I might paint the black side panels blue. Do you think I need to prime them over the factory base coat/clear coat? Or just sand them?
After scuffing surface with (red) Scochbrite pad, you will not need to prime. But to insure you will not have any issues, I would advise you to use a sealer before applying new paint Jerry.
Paint will be very weak without catalyst
Just getting ready to paint my new lower fairing covers. And saw your video pop up when looking for guidance.
Of course I'm going to watch Motorman show me how, havent led me astray yet😁, riding, washing and detailing now painting! Could it get any better?🤔😁😁
Thanks Jerry!
Remember. It's all in the prep. Then the wet sanding, then the polishing.
@@motorman857 got em sanded down tomorrow its a go!👍
Painting is so tricky, I commend you for giving it a try. I’d love to learn how to do it really well.
It's not brain surgery. Just tedious and time consuming to do it right especially if you don't have a compressor and a paint gun.
I'm no body guy, but I'd be concerned that that layer of clear will never "cure", and if you spray over it, it will not bond correctly. If it were me, I'd wet sand it with 400 or 600 grit and re-do the clear altogether. Hopefully some experienced painters will chime in.
I'm thinking that's what I should do.
@@motorman857 Without knowing what you are painting with I'd recommend it. Hop over here www.autobody101.com/forums/
and ask these guys. You'll need to tell them what type paint you're using, a
single stage acrylic enamel, lacquer or epoxy. My guess is you're using SSAE. If you do wind up sanding it off you'd be best to wet sand with 400 and apply another coat of color if it's metal flake. Sanding, wet or dry, doesn't agree with metal flake.
Looks like you got another career jerry : ' paint like a pro' !!!!!!! heck of a job brownie
No. Way too much work without the proper tools.
Mr Jerry you know how I feel about HD and there over priced
Bikes & Parts , If you only have $300.00 in this TP & Paint you done well vs HD $1,600.00 and you can always fix the paint later
if needed , an I think Viking has some decent looking Tour Pac's .
Jerry, I love you man so please take this the way it's meant. Stick with teaching people how to ride. You're not a painter...LOL
Absolutely sand off the non catalyzed clear coat off. Make sure you get all of it off without going thru the color coat. Re-spray it with at least 4 coats of clear and this time..."Pull the Pin"...LOL. You should have a wet edge to edge spray and it should be pretty damn glossy when your done. If it dries molted or semi-flat you didn't spray it wet enough. Either way, you still have to wet sand. Start with 800 and then go up to 1000, 1200, 1400. Once your done with wet sanding , rubbing compound it first and then polishing compound it. Use a foam buff on a rotary buffer but keep the speed slow...You do not want to polish fast... then wait at least 30 days and Ceramic Coat it...Done
Well it looks pretty good actually. I've never had any luck with painting stuff, but your box is looking good...
I love these vids. And love the flhp.
ya- I have them@Absolutely nothing on my channel
Coming from a body shop you are using the wrong mask
Hey Jerry! Did you paint the inside of the pack, or just exterior? I’m debating whether to take the pack apart and paint the lid and base separate. My colour is River Rock Denim. And what is the difference between wet sanding and dry sanding.
So it dried without the catalyst? I would imagine it would be ok to clear over it. If it sands ok, you may want to wet sand the hiccups out and then reclear it. And yes, you are correct about putting on extra clear if you have some sanding to do. I had a nasty fisheye problem for a while and when they’d appear, I’d lay on an extra clear-coat and then sand them out. But you need the catalyst. You’ll have durability issues without it. I’ve goofed up plenty in 30 years of shooting automotive paint, but so far haven’t forgotten the hardener.LOL. So you have a wool compounding pad and compound? If you know how to buff well, you can make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear. Lots of good RUclips videos on buffing and color sanding.
Yes it's dry to the touch but it has a lot of texture/orange peel. I'm not sure that it's a hardener that releases when you pull the ring at the bottom of the can or just a chemical that gets mixed in. If I wet sand it, how long should I wait to spray the clear?
You can spray right away after sanding. Just clean it up well. I’d test a small area with wax & grease remover. Test an inconspicuous area to Make sure the cleaner does not affect the paint. Then go ahead and wipe it down and shoot it. Catalyst and hardener are pretty much the same thing. Good luck!
Hey Jerry , the clear is a two part system the ring releases the hardener in the can. I would let that coat dry a day them lay down a couple more coats of clear, that should smooth out the orange peel. @@motorman857
This guy explains edge buffing well. You have a lot of edges.
ruclips.net/video/_ZDYzOAvM_I/видео.html
Now that you have had it for over a year, would you recommend it over the Harley tour pack based on the savings. I take long 2 up trips, so I need one that is sturdy and will last. But I also don’t want to overpay.
Let it harden then give it the next catalyst can
Looking good motorman
Looks great
Awesome!! I’m wondering when you’re done if you will post all of the expenses. You referenced that the paint is expensive but didn’t say how much. Also, include how many hours you’ve worked on this. I’m curious (as I’m sure other subscribers are) if there is that much difference between the HD that’s complete vs this one you’ve made. And it is coming out remarkably well. Doing your own thing can be rewarding in so many ways-beyond $$$.
I did say how much the paint was. 92 bucks for 2 cans of base, 2 cans of mid color and 2 cans of clear. About 5 hours of labor so far, and 20 bucks in paper. If I could have found a matching color at the auto parts store, the paint would have been about 35 dollars.
Sorry-didn’t hear the costs in the video. Thanks.
Not bad. Just throw some ride like a pro stickers on the goof ups and your good to go.
Damn. Why didn't I think of that?
Hi sir! How many litres of paint did u use for this box? Im doing the same project for my vstar 1900 later on this year!
Regards Roger Martinsen Sweden
Where did you get the paint to match?
You’re too hard on yourself Jerry. Looks dope.
What color is this , I had a shop do Pacific blue in 2000 on my 1986 flt , Im thinking of doing my Road king the same color . Looks great out of a can . House of color has cans .
On police bikes it's called impact blue but on civilian models it's called electric blue. Electric blue is easier to find and is listed on many color match sites but they are exactly the same color.
@@motorman857 Thank you
I know its been three years, but did one can of each do the job for the razor, or two cans of base and clear?
How's it holding up?
Thanks, great job
2 cans of base and 2 cans of clear. If you use automotive paint from usa.specialistpaints.com/pages/contact It will last as long as the stock paint. Tell them I sent you.
@@motorman857 Thank you very much, If I go this route, I will tell them you sent me.
Appreciate all you do for us in Two.
@@motorman857 They don't have my color but I told them you sent me thank you again.
Jerry, who did you order it from if you don’t mind me asking
Just go on ebay and type in razor tour pack. There's a bunch of sellers all selling the same thing. I paid 200 bucks with the backrest and free shipping.
Ride Like a Pro Jerry Palladino awesome. Thanks brother
Hey Jerry, I'm looking to buy the brake lights you're using on your bikes... What brand are they? Thanks for your videos!
showbikelights.com tell Jay I sent ya
Just wondering what kind of paint did you use and do you need primer or not
The paint is from custompaints.com no primer was needed.
Definitely sand off that clear coat. Should be able to fix those oops spots at the same time.
Painting isn't easy. That's why they charge so much
What name brand is the tour pack?
I have no idea. I purchased it from amazon or ebay but I don't recall the seller. If you want a quality tour pack, go with advanblack.com Otherwise, the tour packs are hit and miss as far as quality.
Sweet
With all due respect you probably know a number of custom body shop owners in your area and had them paint it for a few bucks you could have mentioned their shop on your videos.
Actually, I don't know anyone at any body shops. But, having once done this before, I was sure I could do it again. And I will. Sure I could pay someone else to do it. But I wouldn't learn anything doing it that way and none of my viewers would either.
Hello Motorman
Hello there.
l would have left it black personally.They dont make my CVO paint two tone Candy apple.
Ray Locke
Really? I'm not sure if you're referring to Jerry's bike or if it was your own! IMHO, your comment is totally useless and simply one that should have stated where it originated - in your own head. I THINK he did the right thing by color matching to his bike. I THINK it would have looked hideous leaving it black. Just MY thoughts.
@@daleLan1 I was referring to my own bike about leaving it black.
Sorry Jerry but wet sanding is outdated. 4 or 600 grit A grade sandpaper and a red scotch rite will work perfectly. No chasin water
What does the Night Stalker know about sand paper?
@@motorman857 I painted cars for 17 years before Law Enforcement. New and updated sanding systems are great so there’s no chasing that pesky water drip that wants to come out of hiding in your first or second coat of clear.. the tour pack looked good though. I’m gonna do the same ( with a rattle can) since I sold all my paint equipment 12 years ago. Is there a link for the paint materials you used? Have a great day Mr. Jerry
@@davidromero2870 The paint is from custompaints.com tell em I sent you. Where do I get info on these new updated sanding systems?
@@motorman857 Thanks Mr. Jerry. Now, I have been out of the loop since 2009 but there were several companies like 3M, Mirka and other "automotive" supply companies making the switch to waterless sanding because the sanding sludge would enter the storm drain system. The chemical compositions of the catalyzed paint systems contain carcinogens. The systems were expensive then but I dont know about now. My suggestion would be to speak with the paint reps at the local automotive paint store for the most up to date methods.. Water sanding is stiil performed all over but to me its just a little more messy and time consuming. I used to have small problems with water that would sneak out on the first coat or second coat of clear and boy is that frustrating. And a little bit of info, water sanding with P grade paper is more aggressive than dry sanding with A grade paper. If you use P400 wet, step it down to P600 and you can paint over those scratches without fear of sand scratch swelling after curing. Hope this is useful. Thanks again sir.
Paint job looks good. Where did you buy the color match paint?
Where did you get the pant
Kustomcanz.com They had a dealer 5 miles from my house as it turns out.
Use 2k clear coat on top from spraymax 20 a can but worth it I painted my bars triple tress and frame came out like glass . Same as that but you push in the harder with a button .would sand it to get rid of the clear and reclear it. Takes like 2 days to dry than wet sand 1500 than 2000 . Then buff it out with 3m perfect it compound worth the money and will work great on all your bikes . It was my first paint job and I can see my reflection like a mirror and that with white as a color. Ebay has everything you need. ......good luck John
2K clear is what I used and forgot to pull out that ring to activate. I just spent an hour sanding it off. That caused a couple of edges. So now, I'll give it another coat of base and another coat of the mid paint before clearing again.
@@motorman857 stay away from the edges when sanding I did the same thing . The 3m perfect it compound made a huge difference in the final result do you have a buffer ? I think I paid 30 for the compound but it was worth every penny ! Don't forget to let the clear to dry for 48 hours before wet sanding......good luck!