Din Rail Terminals
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- Опубликовано: 23 мар 2020
- A look at some din rail terminals which will be used in the phase converter project. These are for 2.5mm² wires, but this style of terminal can be obtained in many different sizes and styles.
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I love how the subject matter is serious and technical, yet he's wearing a Superman shirt. Ha ha ha
I'm sitting watching him wearing the same jacket with a top gear tee shirt guess it's an electrician thing lol.
Superman IS serious.
We use this type of terminals 15 years ago, we swapped to Wago clamp terminal for speed and long lasting. A clamp terminal will keep the wire inside when you have vibration and a screw therminal need to be screw again to secure the connection once a years or less often depending on vibration. The clamp termnial save us so much time when wiring a new panel it's incredible.
Cheers John, excited to see more progress on phase converter. Nick Bundy did a video not long ago using these to move an old consumer unit inside the house. It was previously in the meter box outside. That was the first time I'd come across them but it was a neat solution. However your comment about square millimetres / millimetres squared pricked my ears up...
Hope lockdown is going ok in Bournemouth
From neighbouring Southampton
Cheers
I have used thousands of these all makes all sizes alough the big ones 70mm plus tend to snop off.
There is one point I have spent a lot of time in panels when they have been installed upside down when the springs age and work loose if on the rail the wrong way round any vibration causes then to fall off with obvious consequences this is even more of a problem with G rail which will lock the correct way but fall straight off if inverted.
If you look at the bottom of those terminals you will se they are known as universal ie they will fit both top hat or G rail (asymmetrical) rail. If ordering make sure which type of rail they are for.
Thank you so much for this video. I was looking at using a DIN rail to distribute power for a project for a networking closet, but I couldn't quite understand how to use them from the pictures and this video really helped me fill in the holes in my understanding.
Brilliant vid. The situation you state about moving a consumer unit is exactly what i am having to do and these are a great solution. Subbed.
You can usually get dummy end caps which screw onto the DIN rail and stop the blocks moving sideways...
They are called stop blocks. Not "dummy end caps".
You and big clive are bloody awesome, I would buy you both many ales if I ever met you
I like those shorting strips. The ones I have clip into place and can't skip over one: you clip them together two at a time.
Thanks a million for your videos.
doing my first diy din rail and this video was super helpful, thank you
Great video and the suggestion of using them to extend wires in domestic consumer unit.
Useful, I have never seen them before. Interesting video.
Cheers John, hope your keeping safe and Healthy
Where I worked on panel wiring the different colours required an end cap on each one/row, especially importannt when using jumper bars.
Thanks for this. Nice & clear.
The end cover should be locked off with a locking stop end which screws to the rail, a terminal cover is also available which is usually used in industry.
I used a DIN cabinet when I changed my consumer unit.
I actually installed the DIN cabinet on a small piece of plywood next to the new CU and ore-wires the DIN rails to the MCBs on a bench. Much easier. Then ripped out the old CU, installed the plywood as one and terminated the house cables to the DIN rail connectors which were all labelled and ready.
Looks nice and neat and the CU swap was much quicker - it needed to be for my situation. It was my house.
Thanks very informative and helpful.
Another good video john thank mate
John, Thank You. Heard about these but never saw them. Very useful video, as always. Makes me glad to be a Patron !
Thank you for sharing
I have to confess I have never seen brown, grey or black terminals and deffo not red. Usually a sort of olive fawn colour. I am surprised as are other followers of yours JW that you are not using end locks.
I always use the bootlace ferrules on the control cables when I wire these things up, much neater and easier to fit wire into terminal. Have come across these terminals in days of old where strands of wire have been cut out to ensure too large a cable fits into terminal... lol.
Good vid as usual JW, cheers
I always use a crimp-end of one sort or another in din terminals. It's all too easy to insert bare wires badly so they screw up at the end or a stray strand causes a short. . In a huge panel that could mean days of fault-finding wasted.
I like the idea of using those to move a single phase board actually
3:36 Outside the UK, in the good old Germany and some other EU-countries the once metal is only the DIN Stange (DIN rail). Around is only a plastic box.
Only outside for "heavy duty" we use metal boxes for mechanical savety.
What??
@@mikeZL3XD7029ok, as a native English speaker who speaks German fluently, I’ve become adept at decoding a lot of broken English written by speakers of German (and related languages, like Dutch). What they’re trying to say is “Outside the UK, e.g. in Germany and other EU countries, the only metal is the DIN rail. Everything else is plastic.”
To the OP:
“einzige” = only.
“Nur/einmal” = once.
Sir
Thank you so much for everything you have done
I watched all of your videos
Please do you have catalogue or company you recommend for us for the terminal blocks
I need to add it to inventory
Use these all the time, I find it useful to install endstops that are attached like the earth connection as using a screwdriver on the screws tends to separate them.
Yep, especially when you crank down on the screw on the earthing terminals to get a good bite on the rail, they really open up. That's why its always nice to like you said, put an endstop. Preferably an endstop with an embedded metal strip in the clip so it bites the rail as well and stops it from sliding down over time. Allen Bradley as well as Electec (ABB) are the end-stops I like as they have this embedded metal strip in the clip. The A/B ones are kinda sharp and they REALLY bite into the rail. They don't slide at all and if you try, they dig into the zinc coating on the rail and get even more secure.
These terminals look like a copy of a very early design of the Weidmüller WDU2.5 terminal. The WDU2.5 is probably the most used DIN-Rail-Terminal in Austria and Germany.
Does the marking-system from Weidmüller fit on these CONTA-CLIP terminals?
1:20 UK leave the EU but they use our german DIN (Deutsche Institut für Normung) Schiene (rail) in so many boxes. That's funny.
BTW: The small connectors with 1/2 DU (5.1 mm) are cheaper copies of the Weidmüller connectors. Orginal have 400V / 24A / 2,5 qmm.
Thanks for the info, i was looking at relocating a consumer unit to a more accessible location, this would be more fit for purpose as to extend cables in a tidy manner. A wago style arrangement would suit me best as i am trying to move away from screw terminals as much as possible.
Where did you buy them?
Thanks!
Can you cover generators please and how they work in great detail thanks👍
I have the older style , rather than screws they use spring lock clips and to join multiple together you have a pin that drops between two. The grounds have a metal bar that rests on the rail rather than the locking screw that these ones use. I think I might get some of these new ones, they look more user friendly. Also have some fuse holder ones also.
The screw terminals _are_ the older style.
@tookitogo I only said that because they came out of a 15-20 year old hospital panel
Love how much knowledge you give out. If you were to choose between push-in connection and screw connection terminal blocks, which one would you choose and why? I keep hearing that screw connections are unreliable due to vibration, while push-in connection risks of getting loose due to thermal cycling. Specifically I'm looking at Phoenix PTI 2.5 PE L N vs Phoenix UTI 2.5 PE L N. Thanks
U can go for elmex Control
Personally, I hate the screw-type terminal blocks. Wires can become lose, and it take time to wire it up. I prefer the spring-lock type. Cost a bit more thought, esp for a home-use project.
So you can't use a screwdriver and basic tools?
Shame on you, spring type terminations are known to start fires when poorly done.
But I guess that is what you get with DIY wiring.
Keeps us Fire-fighters busy.
For CoMPEX, ALL Din terminals MUST be tight, even empty ones.
If any are loose, it is classed as a defect.
Its a tedious job going round checking every single one so maintenance free spring loaded type are a god send
In my restored 1977 Trans am I used Weidmuller screw in terminal blocks to connect every wires in the car, nothing has loosed after 7 years. I even used two terminal blocks that I zip tied together in a hurry to connect each of the headlights. Never loosen even with a V8 under the hood.
@@mikeZL3XD7029Good quality spring terminals like WAGO and Phoenix Contact are extremely reliable.
What's a go-to place to buy these online (UK)? RS Components?
Nifty connectors.
John you need a cape. Hero's wear capes. Ergo.... *Orders Cape*
The best dinrail terminals are siemens. They have plastic both sides, are fully symmetrical, and dont try to twist apart like the others. I've used cheaper ones in the past like Connectwell or Europa, and although they're ok for the money, I've had a few with stripped threads from new. Some of the most over-rated ones are Weidmuller/Klippon IMHO
If you used that to extend CU wiring and it joined all the earths together (via the din rail). Wouldn’t that cause a problem during testing ?
Yes, for that application it would be better to use the insulated terminals for the CPC.
not to long ago u use to use about 250.000 to 500.000 terminals like these a year.
and i have scrude more than 2 million in my life time.
its fun to see the looks on the interns face when he has to unpack u meter tall euro pallet and u tell in 3 months u need to do it again.
I put the earth at the end closing off the exposed end.
The exposed end should always get a blocking card. Terminal block systems are not designed for the earthing block to provide covering for a live adjacent open terminal block. The covers snap in place so if the terminals work themselves apart and form a gap, the card moves with the terminal block and the contacts are always covered and protected. Also as well, earthing blocks should never be used as endstops. It should go earthing block, end-stop, blocking card, terminal block, terminal block,.....,end-stop.
@ John Ward,
There are biege coloured end caps/retainers for Top Hat DIN Rail parts, they only have a central screw, that holds it to the DIN Rail.
The worst thing you can ever strike is that useless G-profile DIN Rail, that was a thing in the 1980's.
It was used in factories and try as you might to remove the terminals from the rail (with the supply still live) without snapping the bottom plastic clamp off, rendering it useless.
Top Hat is the way to go.
H jd what the best way to convert my generator from 3-phase to single phase .I seen converter from single to 3 phase but not to opersit way round eny advice thanks
There is no conversion, single phase loads can be connected between neutral and one of the phases.
Tnx for video. What’s the screwdriver slotted size for these terminals?
Usually 3.5-4.0mm off the top of my head.
Good video. Where's the best place to get small quantities of these connectors?
Most electrical suppliers such as CEF, Rexel, also suppliers such as Farnell, RS.
Thanks John.
These Conta-Click ones look like Weidmüller clones._
Link bar looks like it was copied from the older weidmuller sak range.
Yes of course. AFAIK was Weidmüller the first company how start with this small 1/2 DU connectors.
For low power them are smaller, AFAIK 1/3 DU. For high power thicker, 1 DU.
They can't patent the function so many other companies make own style copies.
If do you order direct at Weidmüller do you can buy every RAL colour.
They look like the Klippon brand as well
@@AE-mu1jc I believe Wiedmuller have the patent on this type of connector, yet the Chinese don't recognise any patents, so they are made as cheap as and probably don't fit the original specification for manufacture.
KAK? was the DIN rail manufacturer really thinking about that name. 😱😁
Of course he did, "C" and "E" are missing...
Better than bearing manufacture named F.A.G. or terminal block named G.E.I._
There used to a crane manufacturers called fairy.
@Jannie Kirsten there used to be a firm called spruce spring clean.
it's like the domestic appliances called SMEG, or SICK who make switches... there's even a company called f.a.r.t who make neon sign transformers :)
We all love flathead screwdrivers, do we...
John, if used as described to extend cables for a cu change, would you use the green earth terminals for CPCs? All of the CPCs in the install would them be common at the din rail. Could this affect your readings during inspection and test? Maybe lower R2.
Better to use the insulated terminals for that, otherwise all the CPCs would be connected together, making any testing at the CU meaningless.
@@jwflame Thanks John. It is obvious thinking about it now that it would completely mess up the ring final figure 8 test results at least.
Linking them together to join more wires isn't there a danger you will exceed the 25amps rating?
Nope. The whole circuit is fused with 25A at maximum. In case of 2.5mm² wiring I would rather recommend fusing it with 20A. You'll have to ensure that the incoming wire is fused properly. It doesn't matter how many wires there are, they can all not draw more than 25A if the whole circuit is fused with 25A. The overcurrent protection will prevent this.
They would be typically be used in an industrial setting, so everything connected has a known rated current and will likely be fused. So not a problem assuming it's designed correctly.
This is where you would need to design the installation and then specify the components needed, CEF have many different amp rated components: www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/categories/din-rails-and-terminals-din-rail-terminals
If you create a circuit you'll have to design it that way that the fuse/MCB rating depends on the weakest link of the chain. Let's say I design a german outlet circuit. Wiring is 2.5mm², under best circumstances it's rated for 25A, normally 20A. Connectors in junction boxes, let's say Wago 221, are rated for 32A. The outlets are rated for 16A, so the circuit is fused with 16A at max (circuit breaker B16A). No matter how many outlets are connected to this circuit. In rooms like living rooms or bedrooms one 16A circuit covers all outlets (and could supply the lighting too without any kind of trouble), and that's sufficient because there are normally no appliances with a high demand. In the kitchen you require several circuits, mostly dedicated circuits with only one outlet for one specific appliance like a refridgerator or a dish washer. The thing is not about demand, you can also hook up the dish washer and the refridgerator on the same circuit, but if you require to switch-off one circuit for whatever reason the other appliance would also have no electric power.
@@Gameboygenius What do they say about assume you make an ass out of you and me.
DIN rail terminals . . . A lot busier and more functional than most other rail terminals are at the moment.
And no DIN does not mean Doncaster International
Is t that where top gear is filmed?
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The PE terminal with conducting connections are allowed in insulation class I panels, but when inspecting Insulation class II panels we also come across them alot.. this is not allowed. Its a common made mistake.
In these kind of panels a continuity check with 200mA , proofs such a mistake easily.
Sad Space Invaders (2:10)
Can I get 3d model of this part ?
The big manufacturers have the models on their websites, as well as complete (free) web-based layout programs that let you place modules on the rail, jumper them, etc.
@4:40 those joining strips are not very good as it can remove IP2X protection. There are other push in "blade" type joiners that are much better.
"There are other push in "blade" type joiners that are much better." Better? No. They can fall out and lose connection if not properly inserted. The screw type are way more secure. As to protection the make cover strips for that.
You have to use the jumper type specific to the terminal blocks in use. The ones he showed are designed for screw jumpers, so you must use the screw jumpers made for that series. Others are designed for the blade-type jumpers, and in those you must use blade-type jumpers _specific to that series._
@@tookitogo Timestamp?
Using it to extend the wiring for consumer unit is questionable as they are rated 24A and the socket circuit is 32A or 40A
Other ratings are available.
It sounds like the audio is being heavily compressed as in volume leveling.
Nothing has changed in the way the original is created, presumably some RUclips encoding issue.
@@jwflame I thought the audio was fine. Much better than most channels. Good work John.
You are technically putting them upside down.
hmm... but what i really need is some cross cheat sheet for UK wire types compared to Canadian wire types compared to USA wire types..lol...
having to guess between 12 guage and 2.5mm and 14 guage, thhn..thwn... bs specs..lol..
Life in Caribbean hard.. only constant is the conduit is all marked 20 or 25mm from trinidad..lol bs standards..
Do you have an email address john
xo4.uk/?YTT
1:15 ?
?
Chocky blocks, electrical tape or selotape. So much easier
😲
I bet they're 3D printed.
Anyone else slightly annoyed about how he consistently clicks them in from the wrong side?
I'm searching all over to understand how to remove those block terminals. Eventually this video kind of demonstrates that but makes me more confused about the direction to click in. @muh1h, your comment clarifies my doubt. (I still appreciate John's explanation here though.)
Jai BJP
👍