Have tiles and jumpers existed that long too? I didn't bother to check. I think the jumpers at least are newer. But anyways, it's been possible for decades :)
Very cool! You asked what would happen if you extended the pattern of 1x1 bricks and 2x2 jumpers. Turns out, there is NO repeating pattern that will work forever. Eventually, one of the base studs would hit the edge of a 1x2 brick. The reason is simple... sqrt(2) is irrational! You could continue this method forever, swapping between 1x1 and 2x2 bricks when you need to, there just wouldn't be a repeating pattern.
At some point the approximation of sqrt2 you've built will be better than the manufacturing tolerance of the bricks, at which point you can repeat the pattern, but technically that would be an illegal build.
I literally laughed out loud as soon as you brought out the transparent bricks and said “oh my gosh, it was RIGHT THERE the whole time!” Brilliant! 👏👏👏
I know right. This idea came to me laying in bed one night and I couldn't wait to experiment with it because like you said it's been there the whole time.
LEGO used this technique in the Ninjago City Gardens right behind the roller coaster rail. This was my first experience with this absolulty fantastic technique. Nice Video 😊
With a tolerance of 0.1% of a stud, A 576-stud wall will connect at 45 degrees to a 408 x 408 plate. If you want 0.01% stud tolerance, you can connect a 8,119-stud wall at 45 degrees to a 5,741 x 5,741 plate.
a long time ago, LEGO made 1x8 bricks without the tubes that get in the way, i found some on craigslist a couple years back and just now realized how useful they are THANK YOU FOR INSPIRING ME
Oh damn, how did I forget. I only recently build the Ninjago Gardens set and that one uses pretty much that technique for the the front wall of the yellow building at the top.
The bricks without the bottom tube do exist in opaque colours, but I don't think they make them anymore. The only reason they still make them in transparent colours is probably because they look better than the regular ones when used as windows.
I am learning so much from your channel. As a toy photographer i'm always trying to elevate my LEGO MOCs because they're literally my backgrounds!! Thank you so much for not keeping this information to yourself, this stuff is so unbelievably awesome
So cool! Unfortunately, you can't make any parallel or perpendicular 45 degree lines behind this one to stabalize, so your build will only be based on a single line. But I think we can save thsi with the principles of the super sugar grid! Repeat the grid of plates seen at 2:58 in one direction, packed tight; then place clear blue bricks along the parallel 45 degree lines. However, don't pack these tight, since they'll need to be adjusted side-to-side to make up for the square root of two. Then, Make a second grid of clear blue bricks on top of those, at a right angle to the first. The lower layer of bricks will need to be adjusted along their lines to offset the upper layer, so that the upper layer of lines form a rational grid. Then the top layer can be secured with baseplates, and I think this way you can make a full 45 degree baseplate with a high number of attachment points. The grid of studs may need to be altered from 2:58 actually, but I think the super sugar grid principle will work here too! I don't have the bricks to try it, but if it works I hope to see it here!
@@bricksculptcould you go perpendicular with this exact same technique on the row behind? Should be able to slide the 1x2 right up to the back of a 2x1, no? Would at least give you some additional level of support. But to go up a level, you’d maybe have to use this same trick again, just set back a row and up a level. My description may not make much sense now that I read it back
Another great video building on previous ones. 👏 I love how you are clearly a skilled builder yet you are still learning new techniques and bringing us along for the ride. Keep it up!
"how do we bypass irrational numbers" "By using bricks which have an infinite number of sliding degrees of freedom ofcourse" And with that you opened up lego from the Natural and Rational number lines up to a subsection of the Real number line
It's 3am watching this. I had no clue where you were going with that plate structure, and when you threw down the transparent bricks without center posts in the bottom I literally shouted "OH MY GOD!" Nice job~!
1:41 I can guarantee that the pattern won't be repeating... ever! If there was a periodic pattern, this would mean √2 could be written as a fraction p/q, which would make it rational.
Actually, the brick without the inner tube was the original mold in the 60s, and they came in white, blue, black and red, and if you are lucky you can get a load of them cheap (got a bunch of these in red for 5c a piece on BL) so you can even avoid the double stud facade. Great work figuring out a clean basis. Thanks!
SO. I was building a ninjago set and I noticed something: The "Disk Shooter" (part 16968) is 4 studs wide, but only has a single anti-stud in the middle. I'm not sure if the length or anti-stud would ever cause problems but it snaps down super easily. Unfortunately I only have 1 so I can't test how well it repeats. Also thanks for the absolutely awesome videos. I haven't played with Lego in many many years and you kinda inspired me to get back in to them. Well you and the fact that Lego FINALLY did an official Zelda set. Edit: Rebrickable says it might actually be part 63783 but they both look like they have the same properties
With that pattern, every 4x4 square has three studs. If you're placing 1x2's diagonally, it would be 2sqrt(2) = 2.82843 studs, so you can't extend it like that forever. But that doesn't really matter. You could change the pattern in places, or just leave out transparent bricks when they don't line up.
Just thought about this, but the pieces lego uses for sliding doors, those grey rails, they could fit on a system like this, with some (either round, or aligned to the 45° 1×1's) and even slide across it, for whatever reason you want! Maybe you want easy removal of a building, now it can be barely even connected, just basically sitting there, at a specific angle.
You also *can* get non-transparent 1x2s, 1x6s and 1x8s without tubes. Issue is that these are very old bricks and mostly (if not all) cellulose acetate. Also modern colours won't be available.
@@bricksculpt Age and color may not matter if you have a facade, I'd be more worried about shape and clutch. My very old bricks are often extremely clutchy (good in this case) or completely loose. The non-ABS variety tends to be loose. Another thing is quantity, only the 1x4 is still in production I think. That said, if you happen to have a bunch of scratched taxi/station/police 1x6 it may be an option!
@@what-uc Not in solid colours, which was my point. Old tubeless 1x2, 1x6 and 1x8 were available in solid red, blue, yellow, white and black decades ago.
The pattern does not repeat, but just follow this simple rule for adding more and more length: if you use a 1x1 single stud tile and the previous brick interferes, use a 2x2 single stud tile instead. if you use a 2x2 single stud tile and there is still interference, use a no-stud 1x1 tile to make more room, and use a 1x1 single stud after. This method also works with ingot tiles and 2x1 tiles.
next step is to connect this wall to a "straight" one with a minimal gap (creating a 135 degrees angle between two walls) and I can start planning my project I was holding off because I couldn't figure out 45 degrees angles. Thank you a lot!
I did think about this when messing around in bricklink studio and seeing the tubeless bricks. I think any angle could work with these so long as you have the studs in a straight line and space the pieces correctly. The 6 long version would be even more efficient though I'm not sure how common that piece actually is, so I'd probably use 4 long if I was going to do this myself. Seeing it on video gives me an idea, you could probably do the same thing using angled 1 wide tiles (I don't think the length would matter) by putting plates on either side connected across the top to have it locked along that line. It would slide around but you could probably make some sort of construction to properly lock it in place like with your plate stud reversal trick.
You could do a similar sliding technique with other pieces. Channels and door rails, my first memory of this was with Mars Mission in 2008, though part 2563 was introduced in 1991 and 4510 was introduced in 1983, with its derivatives of 32028 and 30586 being introduced in 1997 and 2001; MM only used it as a linear slide, but there's no reason this solution can't be adapted elsewhere. Since the channel parts are bricks and the door rails are plates, this should allow you to put a standard hinge plate (2429) under the door rail and a studless plate above, leaving the channel brick to have a flush buildable surface on top of it, otherwise the mechanism used to achieve this stays hidden; this would be important if you want to place a building on top of this, and since the mechanism works on one wall you can also place it under the other three walls. If a standard hinge doesn't end up working, then using the rounded 1x2 plate should suffice for odd alignment. The only issue, as with any diagonal, is how you get it to transition between grid patterns, as I don' think you can wedge a tilted square grid between a couple of angled plates, at least not without very specific spacing. The only difference is that you can build this off of standard grid placements and not have to deal with jumped studs, though you will still need a grid with plates and raised studs to allow for the hinge pieces to operate. I guess you could potentially also do it without the hinge plates and place the door rails directly above a stud, though I would think that the additional rotation within the individual parts, given that the two ends of the door rail are decoupled, would make alignment a bit more difficult. You could also potentially go a step beyond this. If you don't place the 1x2 door rail directly over the 1x2 swivel hinge plate, or you use different door rail pieces, you could also use clips and a bar to snap the decoupled hinges together in a more central area. This would still fit under a build, as the clip plates would be under the door rail, planar with the swivel hinges, and these could be hidden under a wider plate as well. A wider build would just require some stepped plates to allow for this, you could also segment a wider build to have a floating central door rail as you could use two sections of clips and bar to achieve the floating third (or fourth, etc.) section of the door rail.
Very cool. Also , if you wanted to continue the wall infinitly, the studs and jumpers would have to be infinitely non-repeating. You know, cause of the root 2.
I never had those transparent bricks in my own collection, but my grandmother happened to have them and I remember always wondering what applications the sliding aspect of them could hold.
Pretty sure old Lego 1×n bricks, like from the 70s probably, were all fully hollow, and I could not help thinking you’d use some before you went for 1×2 transparent hollow bricks. Besides, another quirk of irrationality of square root of 2 means you’ll have to break the pattern every now and then, otherwise bricks placement will inevitably conflict with studs somewhere. But probably nothing fixable with the pattern starting sooner than expected every now and then, since 1×2 bricks give you enough room to adapt. By the way, awesome technique!
The technique does work nicely indeed. But the diagonal pattern will never ever repeat if you want it to be fully legal. However, it can be infinitely extended. (This is similar to the "rabbit sequence" in math that is based on the golden ratio; this one on sqrt(2), which btw is equivalent to the silver ratio.)
This is in the Ninjago City sets! They do a lot of these amazing building techniques that you are learning in those sets. You should get the Gardens to review, because I know at least two of the techniques you have mentioned recently are used in that set.
@bricksculpt They're awesome sets all around, and even if you don't love sets, they come with a huge amount of parts you could add to your collection later. They've been some of my favorites to collect as an adult.
I wrote this as a reply comment, but I wanted to make sure that I could share the idea with others. If you put the studs in an X, building the foundation from the center of the X outwards, you'll have four lines where you can connect your structure to the ground, instead of only one side of your structure.
At first I sort of thought of this as cheating, but I like the new possibilities too much to be a stick in the mud about it. And it looks like one could potentially save pieces by using a normal 1x2 brick on some of the jumpers, though I'd have to test it for myself. Plus I like how you can just use plates instead to get the bricks aligned. So many possibilities for piece savings! I'm always a sucker for good parts usage!
Beautiful solution. I don't have the knowledge on how to set up an equation prove it (some sine-functions if I had to guess), but inuitively I'd say this pattern probably only fails if you make it really long and even then it might be fixable by throwing a 1x1 brick in there every so often.
You know the bricks with no pin in the bottom also come in 1x4 and 1x6 versions, right? I'm sure you do. So, I wonder what you could find to do with those in the mix.
There are older solid colored ones es but in current parts they will typically be some sort of transparent color. Not always blue there's also reds greens and yellows.
I have a bunch of pre-patent 1x2 bricks in (yellowed) white and red that don’t have the Centre post I just found while sorting through my old collection, so I guess there’s a few colors out there you could use 😅
I'm imagining some Lego engineers not to mention the ones on YT watching us brainstorming the subject on the prev videos and thinkin "LOL wankers! Let's see when they'll get to it!" 🤣
@@bricksculpt Dude I just watched this: Why Are Pencils Yellow? ruclips.net/video/yzv_hipDXxw/видео.html In short, it's Koh-I-Noor 's merit. :) I thought of your giant Lego pencil!
Crazy how those transparent bricks have been in production since 1956 and are still being made today. This techniques been possible for 68 years
I know crazy!
should have waited one more year to post the video
@@theprimegamer7086 If you're 5 years old, yes.
@@theprimegamer7086 nice
Have tiles and jumpers existed that long too? I didn't bother to check. I think the jumpers at least are newer. But anyways, it's been possible for decades :)
Very cool! You asked what would happen if you extended the pattern of 1x1 bricks and 2x2 jumpers. Turns out, there is NO repeating pattern that will work forever. Eventually, one of the base studs would hit the edge of a 1x2 brick. The reason is simple... sqrt(2) is irrational! You could continue this method forever, swapping between 1x1 and 2x2 bricks when you need to, there just wouldn't be a repeating pattern.
At some point the approximation of sqrt2 you've built will be better than the manufacturing tolerance of the bricks, at which point you can repeat the pattern, but technically that would be an illegal build.
@DanielHarveyDyer if it doesn't stress the pieces because it's within tolerance...is it still illegal??
in practice you need a connection point at both and of the wall and maybe something in the middle. No need for such a tight pattern
is there a 3x1 studless piece? if there is, then we can workaround that.
Easy solution: skip that stud, continue
I literally laughed out loud as soon as you brought out the transparent bricks and said “oh my gosh, it was RIGHT THERE the whole time!” Brilliant! 👏👏👏
I know right. This idea came to me laying in bed one night and I couldn't wait to experiment with it because like you said it's been there the whole time.
I had an audible reaction too. 😂
My reaction was more like: "Oooohh-ho-ho-ho" but still wild to think of transparent bricks.
LEGO used this technique in the Ninjago City Gardens right behind the roller coaster rail. This was my first experience with this absolulty fantastic technique.
Nice Video 😊
Thanks!
I believe they used it also on one of the modular buildings, can't think of which one.
where
With a tolerance of 0.1% of a stud, A 576-stud wall will connect at 45 degrees to a 408 x 408 plate. If you want 0.01% stud tolerance, you can connect a 8,119-stud wall at 45 degrees to a 5,741 x 5,741 plate.
a long time ago, LEGO made 1x8 bricks without the tubes that get in the way, i found some on craigslist a couple years back and just now realized how useful they are THANK YOU FOR INSPIRING ME
You are very welcome! That piece just went up in price on BL! Lol
"don't like math" sir this _is_ math! And you're good at it! Crunching numbers real hard is not all there is to math!
Extra crunchy numbers!
The algorithm used my webcam and saw I was working on a MOC with 45 degree angles and made this show up. Great tip!
Thanks!
Every video you come up with builds on another and they're all absolutely bangers! Love this solution!
Thank you so much for your support!
As soon as you brought out the 1x2 bricks, I knew where this was going. Finally, my PAB Wall horde of 1x2 Trans Red Bricks is useful for something!
Nice PAB payoff!
This has gotta be the best solution. So simple, so elegant, just perfect
Thanks
Oh damn, how did I forget. I only recently build the Ninjago Gardens set and that one uses pretty much that technique for the the front wall of the yellow building at the top.
Just checked the instructions and in the second book it gets startet to be build at page 131 and attached to the rest of the build at page 145.
@@5onderlingspecifically 139 for the technique in the video
The bricks without the bottom tube do exist in opaque colours, but I don't think they make them anymore. The only reason they still make them in transparent colours is probably because they look better than the regular ones when used as windows.
game changing! and you technically only need the outermost 2 transparent 1x2s because the rest of them don't do much more than add clutch power
Which also means that you can do literally any angle.
Yeah that is true just the outer section has to be the trans parts but this way gives more clutch power.
@@bricksculpt TRANS PARTS 🏳⚧🏳⚧
You could use 1x4 without tubes (3066) to fix the angle with only one brick
Love this
I have some really old 1x6 and 1x8 bricks that are hollow on the bottom too. And they're not all transparent yellow either! Some are classic grey.
Nice
To achieve a 45 degree angle, you can also use a 135 degree technic connector.
I am learning so much from your channel. As a toy photographer i'm always trying to elevate my LEGO MOCs because they're literally my backgrounds!! Thank you so much for not keeping this information to yourself, this stuff is so unbelievably awesome
Thank you for your support!
So cool! Unfortunately, you can't make any parallel or perpendicular 45 degree lines behind this one to stabalize, so your build will only be based on a single line. But I think we can save thsi with the principles of the super sugar grid! Repeat the grid of plates seen at 2:58 in one direction, packed tight; then place clear blue bricks along the parallel 45 degree lines. However, don't pack these tight, since they'll need to be adjusted side-to-side to make up for the square root of two. Then, Make a second grid of clear blue bricks on top of those, at a right angle to the first. The lower layer of bricks will need to be adjusted along their lines to offset the upper layer, so that the upper layer of lines form a rational grid. Then the top layer can be secured with baseplates, and I think this way you can make a full 45 degree baseplate with a high number of attachment points. The grid of studs may need to be altered from 2:58 actually, but I think the super sugar grid principle will work here too! I don't have the bricks to try it, but if it works I hope to see it here!
Yes it's going to not work with parallel lines, I need to explore that further.
It can be done on 1 adjacent 90 wall.
@@bricksculptcould you go perpendicular with this exact same technique on the row behind? Should be able to slide the 1x2 right up to the back of a 2x1, no? Would at least give you some additional level of support.
But to go up a level, you’d maybe have to use this same trick again, just set back a row and up a level.
My description may not make much sense now that I read it back
No I got ya
first time seeing this. mind blown. life changed forever. instant sub.
Wow thank you so much!
Absolutely amazing, and even better that you share it with the the world!
Keep up the great work you do, sir!
Thank you so much!
I think ninjago city gardens used the transparent brick to build in a 45 degree angle
What a stud! What an absolute brick of a unit!
Damn i'm hoping to see builders utilize this technique. It's relatively low profile, very simple, very clean. Fantastic work!
Thank you very much!
I forgot that those transparent bricks are totally hollow inside. Good catch! This is an elegant solution.
Thank you!
This series of videos has been a wild ride.
I'm glad you enjoy them
That's sick! I've never seen this technique before, thanks for sharing!
Your welcome thanks for watching
That IS an elegant solution! 🎉
I think so simplest I have found yet.
Another great video building on previous ones. 👏 I love how you are clearly a skilled builder yet you are still learning new techniques and bringing us along for the ride. Keep it up!
Thank you so much!
The knight who slayed the root two beast!
Holy Brick! That is the coolest technique I’ve ever seen in LEGO. I already have an idea for my next build.
Thanks!
Oh. Oh wow. Well played Chris, Gonna go scroll through Bricklink and see if there's anything else that fits the requirements now!
Thanks!
Unironically good content, this guy drops new tech every video I love it.
Wow thank you so much!
"how do we bypass irrational numbers"
"By using bricks which have an infinite number of sliding degrees of freedom ofcourse"
And with that you opened up lego from the Natural and Rational number lines up to a subsection of the Real number line
Exactly!
And you've got two dimensions -- next stop, complex numbers!
It's 3am watching this. I had no clue where you were going with that plate structure, and when you threw down the transparent bricks without center posts in the bottom I literally shouted "OH MY GOD!" Nice job~!
Lol awesome! I'm glad I didn't disappoint!
1:41 I can guarantee that the pattern won't be repeating... ever!
If there was a periodic pattern, this would mean √2 could be written as a fraction p/q, which would make it rational.
Luca stop being so irrational! 😁
It’s using a 10/7 ratio it’s only 1% off from root 2, it could work a couple more times before it doesn’t fit.
1:41 timestamp 😁
As another Lego RUclipsr likes to say... Mind blown!
I never saw this coming.
Thank you! Success lol
actually a game breaking discovery, so glad i found this channel
Thank you so much!
I don't recall seeing that before! Great parts usage!
Thanks
Actually, the brick without the inner tube was the original mold in the 60s, and they came in white, blue, black and red, and if you are lucky you can get a load of them cheap (got a bunch of these in red for 5c a piece on BL) so you can even avoid the double stud facade.
Great work figuring out a clean basis. Thanks!
Yes. It's very limited in colors though. Thanks!
Super awesome building technique.
Thank you!
SO. I was building a ninjago set and I noticed something: The "Disk Shooter" (part 16968) is 4 studs wide, but only has a single anti-stud in the middle. I'm not sure if the length or anti-stud would ever cause problems but it snaps down super easily. Unfortunately I only have 1 so I can't test how well it repeats.
Also thanks for the absolutely awesome videos. I haven't played with Lego in many many years and you kinda inspired me to get back in to them. Well you and the fact that Lego FINALLY did an official Zelda set.
Edit: Rebrickable says it might actually be part 63783 but they both look like they have the same properties
That is awesome find thank you for sharing it will need to test that part out. I'm glad your back into LEGO!
With that pattern, every 4x4 square has three studs. If you're placing 1x2's diagonally, it would be 2sqrt(2) = 2.82843 studs, so you can't extend it like that forever.
But that doesn't really matter. You could change the pattern in places, or just leave out transparent bricks when they don't line up.
You bet!
Just thought about this, but the pieces lego uses for sliding doors, those grey rails, they could fit on a system like this, with some (either round, or aligned to the 45° 1×1's) and even slide across it, for whatever reason you want!
Maybe you want easy removal of a building, now it can be barely even connected, just basically sitting there, at a specific angle.
Love it!
It is a pleasure to watch!!!
Thank you!
awesome video as always!
Thank you!
You also *can* get non-transparent 1x2s, 1x6s and 1x8s without tubes. Issue is that these are very old bricks and mostly (if not all) cellulose acetate. Also modern colours won't be available.
Yeah that is true but hard to find, probably ugly from age and bad color choices either way lol.
@@bricksculpt Age and color may not matter if you have a facade, I'd be more worried about shape and clutch.
My very old bricks are often extremely clutchy (good in this case) or completely loose. The non-ABS variety tends to be loose. Another thing is quantity, only the 1x4 is still in production I think.
That said, if you happen to have a bunch of scratched taxi/station/police 1x6 it may be an option!
@@what-uc Not in solid colours, which was my point. Old tubeless 1x2, 1x6 and 1x8 were available in solid red, blue, yellow, white and black decades ago.
You're an absolute legend, sir!
Lol thanks
Dang you are progressing fast with these techniques! Keep cooking!
Thanks for the support!
Very cleaver indeed!
Thanks
There are also some older 2x1 pieces that don't have the central pin thing, I think
Yes old stuff from the 70's
I like how you keep digging
Always stay curious
The pattern does not repeat, but just follow this simple rule for adding more and more length: if you use a 1x1 single stud tile and the previous brick interferes, use a 2x2 single stud tile instead. if you use a 2x2 single stud tile and there is still interference, use a no-stud 1x1 tile to make more room, and use a 1x1 single stud after. This method also works with ingot tiles and 2x1 tiles.
That's a good method!
As you were building I thought of those real life glass bricks! Very cool technique!
Yeah, they do look kinda like that!
Great idea. 2x1 plates don't have central studs either, so you can put them at 45 degree angle too. You can't build on them though.
*tiles
alright this is cool, i like this one a lot
Thanks!
This is impressive!
Thanks!
That's pretty cool, ngl.
Thanks
next step is to connect this wall to a "straight" one with a minimal gap (creating a 135 degrees angle between two walls) and I can start planning my project I was holding off because I couldn't figure out 45 degrees angles.
Thank you a lot!
Video coming soon
It was that shrimple the whole time! 😮
I know right
That's amazing!
Thanks!
I did think about this when messing around in bricklink studio and seeing the tubeless bricks. I think any angle could work with these so long as you have the studs in a straight line and space the pieces correctly. The 6 long version would be even more efficient though I'm not sure how common that piece actually is, so I'd probably use 4 long if I was going to do this myself.
Seeing it on video gives me an idea, you could probably do the same thing using angled 1 wide tiles (I don't think the length would matter) by putting plates on either side connected across the top to have it locked along that line. It would slide around but you could probably make some sort of construction to properly lock it in place like with your plate stud reversal trick.
Yeah the idea came to me with 1x2 tiles and then the challenge was how do I stick things to them. Then I changed pieces.
You could do a similar sliding technique with other pieces. Channels and door rails, my first memory of this was with Mars Mission in 2008, though part 2563 was introduced in 1991 and 4510 was introduced in 1983, with its derivatives of 32028 and 30586 being introduced in 1997 and 2001; MM only used it as a linear slide, but there's no reason this solution can't be adapted elsewhere. Since the channel parts are bricks and the door rails are plates, this should allow you to put a standard hinge plate (2429) under the door rail and a studless plate above, leaving the channel brick to have a flush buildable surface on top of it, otherwise the mechanism used to achieve this stays hidden; this would be important if you want to place a building on top of this, and since the mechanism works on one wall you can also place it under the other three walls. If a standard hinge doesn't end up working, then using the rounded 1x2 plate should suffice for odd alignment. The only issue, as with any diagonal, is how you get it to transition between grid patterns, as I don' think you can wedge a tilted square grid between a couple of angled plates, at least not without very specific spacing. The only difference is that you can build this off of standard grid placements and not have to deal with jumped studs, though you will still need a grid with plates and raised studs to allow for the hinge pieces to operate. I guess you could potentially also do it without the hinge plates and place the door rails directly above a stud, though I would think that the additional rotation within the individual parts, given that the two ends of the door rail are decoupled, would make alignment a bit more difficult.
You could also potentially go a step beyond this. If you don't place the 1x2 door rail directly over the 1x2 swivel hinge plate, or you use different door rail pieces, you could also use clips and a bar to snap the decoupled hinges together in a more central area. This would still fit under a build, as the clip plates would be under the door rail, planar with the swivel hinges, and these could be hidden under a wider plate as well. A wider build would just require some stepped plates to allow for this, you could also segment a wider build to have a floating central door rail as you could use two sections of clips and bar to achieve the floating third (or fourth, etc.) section of the door rail.
Thanks for the detailed explanation and additional ideas. I'll look into those.
With this you can reach almost any angle.
Yes you can!
Very cool. Also , if you wanted to continue the wall infinitly, the studs and jumpers would have to be infinitely non-repeating. You know, cause of the root 2.
Yeah I guess that makes sense.
I never had those transparent bricks in my own collection, but my grandmother happened to have them and I remember always wondering what applications the sliding aspect of them could hold.
Nice!
Pretty sure old Lego 1×n bricks, like from the 70s probably, were all fully hollow, and I could not help thinking you’d use some before you went for 1×2 transparent hollow bricks.
Besides, another quirk of irrationality of square root of 2 means you’ll have to break the pattern every now and then, otherwise bricks placement will inevitably conflict with studs somewhere. But probably nothing fixable with the pattern starting sooner than expected every now and then, since 1×2 bricks give you enough room to adapt.
By the way, awesome technique!
Yeah really old brick can do this too. Thanks!
The technique does work nicely indeed. But the diagonal pattern will never ever repeat if you want it to be fully legal. However, it can be infinitely extended.
(This is similar to the "rabbit sequence" in math that is based on the golden ratio; this one on sqrt(2), which btw is equivalent to the silver ratio.)
Yeah that's what my gut feeling was.
This is in the Ninjago City sets! They do a lot of these amazing building techniques that you are learning in those sets. You should get the Gardens to review, because I know at least two of the techniques you have mentioned recently are used in that set.
I need to check that out!
@bricksculpt They're awesome sets all around, and even if you don't love sets, they come with a huge amount of parts you could add to your collection later. They've been some of my favorites to collect as an adult.
I would love to review that Garden set for techniques but it's like $400 yikes!
@@bricksculpt Yeah, they are super pricey...
I just got an idea to make 3-brick thick walls and just set them on some pegs, though that'd certainly be less stable
I like it
Mind blown!!!
😮😮 so cleaver
Thanks
Sometimes the simplest solution is the most effective one.
Definitely
Awesome stuff
Thanks!
awesome, love it
Thank you!
This is awesome
Thank you
Game. Changer.
Dude! Wish I could just play Legos with you all day! Where do I get that sweet desktop builder mat?
Rebrickable thanks!
So cool! I need to use this technique in a moc some day! How did you come up with this?
Thanks. Just dreamed it up one night while laying in bed. Yes I dream in LEGO.
I wonder if they have a book or some website that can share all techniques?????
Amazing. How does it go for lining up on corners? Can you do a perfect square or rectangle with it?
Not good lol
Wow. No clickbait!
Lol I love this comment! Does that mean it blew your mind?
@ It sploded
Genius
Thanks
“Color does matter”👑
~10:7 ratio of diagonal studs to grid-aligned studs
I wrote this as a reply comment, but I wanted to make sure that I could share the idea with others.
If you put the studs in an X, building the foundation from the center of the X outwards, you'll have four lines where you can connect your structure to the ground, instead of only one side of your structure.
This is absolutely brilliant and what I was looking for. New video on this coming soon I will credit you in the video!
@@bricksculptI don’t need any credit, I’m just happy to share ideas with others, especially if they can use them.
Thanks! I will mention you for sure either way lol
@@bricksculptThanks.
At first I sort of thought of this as cheating, but I like the new possibilities too much to be a stick in the mud about it. And it looks like one could potentially save pieces by using a normal 1x2 brick on some of the jumpers, though I'd have to test it for myself. Plus I like how you can just use plates instead to get the bricks aligned. So many possibilities for piece savings! I'm always a sucker for good parts usage!
They will all have to be sliders. That's the irrational part :P
You're right that the grid can work forever, but there is no repeating pattern. It's likely something calculable though.
That would be some complex math
I remember there being longer transparent pieces with nothing underneath. I was thinking you'd do this method.
I know you can get 5 tall pieces with open Underside as well. Even in solid colors.
Beautiful solution. I don't have the knowledge on how to set up an equation prove it (some sine-functions if I had to guess), but inuitively I'd say this pattern probably only fails if you make it really long and even then it might be fixable by throwing a 1x1 brick in there every so often.
Yeah I think you are right
You know the bricks with no pin in the bottom also come in 1x4 and 1x6 versions, right? I'm sure you do. So, I wonder what you could find to do with those in the mix.
Yes they are quite rare to come by but yes.
so they always have to be some shade of transparent blue?
There are older solid colored ones es but in current parts they will typically be some sort of transparent color. Not always blue there's also reds greens and yellows.
Can we please see the angle of the first technique measured. I feel it probably isn’t exactly 45 degrees
It is adjustable, so it is not always 45 degrees but can be made 45.
Old Modulex bricks were made like the transparent parts, probably for the same reason?!
I don't know if it the reason or a lucky side effect
I have a bunch of pre-patent 1x2 bricks in (yellowed) white and red that don’t have the Centre post I just found while sorting through my old collection, so I guess there’s a few colors out there you could use 😅
Yeah lots of old ones!
Super creative solution. I bet your videos are used at Lego as mandatory training material
Lol
Almost missed this video and so glad i didn’t
Is this a running series? Lego boomer vs the impossible √2?
Yes lol but I'm a millennial not a boomer 😁
@bricksculpt Me too. I'm 40.😅 I'm kidding with you. 🤭
Nice
I'm imagining some Lego engineers not to mention the ones on YT watching us brainstorming the subject on the prev videos and thinkin "LOL wankers! Let's see when they'll get to it!" 🤣
Yeah probably pretty elementary for them.
@@bricksculpt Dude I just watched this: Why Are Pencils Yellow? ruclips.net/video/yzv_hipDXxw/видео.html
In short, it's Koh-I-Noor 's merit. :) I thought of your giant Lego pencil!
Saw that video lol
really only need the corners to be blue transparant
Yes that is true. Less attachments for stability but depending on the application it's true.
Badass.