That would take a lot of confidence. haha These kind of tools are in a very competitive market. Lots of listings on amazon. I would love to see a test tho!
This is a good video. I would have liked to see this in a thinner material light sheet metal. Im trying to mount a roof rack to the top of my truck are wondering if these sort of rivets would suffice or should I just go straight to nuts and bolts since I have access to both sides anyway.
Great video just bought this tool ! Question I have is are there any pros/cons of carbon steel riv-nuts vs stainless steel besides the corrosion properties more so the strength /torque applied ?
How thick of a panel can that be used in. Need to put a 3/8" x 16 bolt through 1/2" plywood with no access to the back side and don't want to use a toggle bolt. Needs to withstand 10 foot pounds of tightening torque onthe bolt and 100-125 lbs of lifting/pulling force. Thanks. How expensive is the tool to install those.?
You may want to look into bulbed plus nuts instead of rivet nut, rivet nuts are for sheet metal. But something 1/2" thick would be a tough ask, not much out there for that outside of woodworking fasteners.
@Paul Burgener >Please take this advice from a retired ASE Master Tech. Used the tow hitch designed for your vehicle. Their can be 5 different steels used in a uni-Body vehicle. If the kit requires blind nuts or nut-serts, use the ones included with the hitch as grade 8 bolts w/thread locker, but inserts can be grade 8 but also use a rust converter or sealer sprayed into the hole as this is effecting the structural integrity of the body structure you are mounting to. If a back-up plate is provided and you wish to skip this step with nut inserts, don’t. This adds strength by spearing the load over a larger area. A MIG welder is great in this trick. Find the end of the “Backup Plate” that goes in last. Clean, grind a small spot and tack a weld onto this spot. Leave it attached by not pulling the MIG nozzle back. Hold in place until cools for 2-3 minutes. Disconnect the ground, run the wire out longer than you need, now you have a handle to slide the plate into the frame member. Door grabs over an open door a great to help one get in or out & something to hang onto in rough or in corners. Use the colored handle, create a plate longer by an 1” or more. Drill holes to match, weld nuts on back and test. It can be slid into place using the MIG wire trick and gently start both bolts by hand. Then tighten with wrench to correct torque and cut or roll wire back as it can’t be seen. It is a tip I have used for years fabricating stuff, as I bought my 150 AMP MIG in 1984. Miles of wire ran thru it since. Don’t have a MIG, local fabrication or metal shops will charge you $10 bucks or a six pack if you come in cleaned, ground any paint off and draw a picture of what you want. I can break but they can use a heavier wire for the job. Hope this helps!
Sweet! Just getting ready to install tow hooks on my truck. BOOM! Couple 3/8" holes in my bumper, a few riv-nutz and I'm off to the races!!
tow hook mounted on rivnuts....best idea ever..what could go wrong..
Man I hope this is satire.
Wow what a gem to find Eric O commenting out in the wild.
Should send this to project farm and ask him to test it
That would take a lot of confidence. haha
These kind of tools are in a very competitive market. Lots of listings on amazon. I would love to see a test tho!
These guys seriously make the best tools.
This is a good video. I would have liked to see this in a thinner material light sheet metal. Im trying to mount a roof rack to the top of my truck are wondering if these sort of rivets would suffice or should I just go straight to nuts and bolts since I have access to both sides anyway.
Excellent Tool, Highly Recommended! 👍
Amazing how strong they are love astro tools have a ton of your tools
Would they be string enough for a roof rack on a van ?
And thank you for supporting pfi and boosted Boiz great bunch of guys
They are the best!
What gauge metal is this? How about when they are installed in sheet metal like a car/van how easily do they tear out?
But can it cook breakfast?
Love your tools, but ya gotta help Kyle from @BoostedBoiz, always keeps me motivated! Just do it already!
I want to know about compression tension, how much tightening torque can they withstand?
Great video just bought this tool ! Question I have is are there any pros/cons of carbon steel riv-nuts vs stainless steel besides the corrosion properties more so the strength /torque applied ?
No real benefit outside of corrosion resistance. They are as much as twice as hard to set but offer marginal if any strength advantage.
Good enough for me 😊
Very nice
Do you think I can use these on my kayak? I want to mount a motor mount for a trolling motor, cool video man
Yes and there's also waterproof rivet nuts that you can use,for better water proofing also put silicone in the hole before putting the screw
How thick of a panel can that be used in. Need to put a 3/8" x 16 bolt through 1/2" plywood with no access to the back side and don't want to use a toggle bolt. Needs to withstand 10 foot pounds of tightening torque onthe bolt and 100-125 lbs of lifting/pulling force. Thanks. How expensive is the tool to install those.?
You may want to look into bulbed plus nuts instead of rivet nut, rivet nuts are for sheet metal. But something 1/2" thick would be a tough ask, not much out there for that outside of woodworking fasteners.
Could you use these things to mount a D ring ok n a trailer frame
What sets the stud into the hole? What does the tool do to set the stud?
The threaded part of the tool pulls back on the rivet nut and flattens it, crimping it and sandwiching the sheetmetal. You can see this process @ 1:42
How about using then (several, of course) to secure a trailer hitch to a car frame or car unibody?
@Paul Burgener >Please take this advice from a retired ASE Master Tech. Used the tow hitch designed for your vehicle. Their can be 5 different steels used in a uni-Body vehicle. If the kit requires blind nuts or nut-serts, use the ones included with the hitch as grade 8 bolts w/thread locker, but inserts can be grade 8 but also use a rust converter or sealer sprayed into the hole as this is effecting the structural integrity of the body structure you are mounting to. If a back-up plate is provided and you wish to skip this step with nut inserts, don’t. This adds strength by spearing the load over a larger area. A MIG welder is great in this trick. Find the end of the “Backup Plate” that goes in last. Clean, grind a small spot and tack a weld onto this spot. Leave it attached by not pulling the MIG nozzle back. Hold in place until cools for 2-3 minutes. Disconnect the ground, run the wire out longer than you need, now you have a handle to slide the plate into the frame member.
Door grabs over an open door a great to help one get in or out & something to hang onto in rough or in corners. Use the colored handle, create a plate longer by an 1” or more. Drill holes to match, weld nuts on back and test. It can be slid into place using the MIG wire trick and gently start both bolts by hand. Then tighten with wrench to correct torque and cut or roll wire back as it can’t be seen. It is a tip I have used for years fabricating stuff, as I bought my 150 AMP MIG in 1984. Miles of wire ran thru it since. Don’t have a MIG, local fabrication or metal shops will charge you $10 bucks or a six pack if you come in cleaned, ground any paint off and draw a picture of what you want. I can break but they can use a heavier wire for the job. Hope this helps!
@@deankay4434 Sorry so late. RUclips sents out noticed of comment reply to my Gmail, which I rarely us. Thanks for your reply. Good to know.
Well then!!!!!