HOW TO COMPRESSION TEST YOUR DIESEL | TOYOTA 2L-TE
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Whilst installing new glow plugs to the Surf, I figured it's a good time to check compression across the cylinders.
Watch through and learn how simple it is for you to do at home!
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You would use injectors on engines that don't have glow plugs the early engines
When ya do comp test on older diesels mechanical disconnect the fuel solinoid or block fuel flow and remove the glow plugs then you can crank it over and it will blow all the shit out. This helps if you put her on its side or water gets through the intake
Thanks for putting the time and effort !! Cheers
Love the surf and 2lt-e stuff. Thanks for the content
ty. to remove my glow plugs i have to remove intake manifold . Can i still do compression test or i have to remove injectors instead as to remove them i do not have to remove anything else? Ford transit 2004 2.0 tdci 125hp
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Good to know thanks
You can get more fuel out of the 2LT-E pump without a controller.
Spill valve on rear of pump just needs a gentle tweak.
Sometimes it's the case that trying to remove glow plugs may lead them breaking due to corrosion or the "marrying" of two dissimilar metals, particularly on older vehicles & so then your only option is to remove injectors in order to perform the test.
Those other larger adapters are for testing at the injector btw. Keep it up!
How do you fasten them?
A good reason for using injector holes is that on some engines glow plugs are notoriously difficult to remove without shearing them off in the head. Which is a nightmare of course!
I bought this kit from ebay from £24 .. Im trying to wonder how accurate it really is compared to the expensive branded testers
My 2TLE stalls after start, but can turn it over no issues, I deive a bit then it stalls, any idea?
Great video. Does this test show if the cylinder head gasket is leaking ?
I love the kick at the end...awesome..hehe.
It can do, a leak down test would also give more clarity on some form of leak. Whether it be through a valve and/or other means like head gasket.
@@boostedbuiltgarage Thanks for the reply !
Time for the inline turbo then!
Epic vid thank you
Don't think the 12HT in my HJ61 has glow plugs either, direct injection and an intake heater instead
I have a 2.8 3l assuming the results would be similar to the 2l. Having trouble with getting it to run with a 12mm injector pump and think that maybe checking compression would be a good start any ideas?
Yeah I would say they should be in the same vicinity.
I'm not too familiar with mechanical pumps but if the only thing that's changed is a bigger pump then it's something associated with that. Unless you've upgraded and not tuned the fuel properly and melted a piston due to over fueling...
Nice video. So all glow plugs where out right? Do you still have this engine? I need part number of dipstick as apparently there are different versions. Mine was 70cm end to end and round not flat.
Hey Darren, check out toyotamarket.ru/ put your VIN in or select your model/trim level and it will bring up all related drawings with part numbers.
I have tested my 2L-T engine and all 4 read 380psi each. Have put new standard rings but am afraid they need to be bigger as have high blowby. Can you share your toughts?
Depends what high blowby is. These engines (like all) do produce blowby, but obviously there comes a point where it's too much. Did you check the cylinder bores and re-hone them?
@@boostedbuiltgarage yes have taken the cylinder block for rehoning. Blowby has significantly increased since before took the engine apart. When i remove the top oll tap the blowby ptessure feels excessive. Tested the valves with pressure air after compression test and all seam close quite good. The 380psi issue is bothering me as manual says 450psi if not mistaken.
@@Magor108 Hmm yeah well considering my compression values were up around 485psi on an old engine I would say that there may be something wrong.
Have you done a cylinder leak down test?
Piston rings really need to be gapped properly. Can't usually just throw a set in and hope for the best
@@boostedbuiltgarage cylinder leak test done. At TDC valves do not leak. can hear some air leaking probably in crankcase but not heard from oil dipstick pocket and water does not bubble either. I have fitted new rings as per recommendations after re-honing. But my bad of not measuring gap after fitting in the new ones :( Not sure if to take all engine out or try remove the pistons from underneath.
You would need the gear for injector holes on engines that don't have glow plugs like cummins engines mate. C'mon, turn up the little 2lte already. I want to see what it can punch out before it goes boom!!!
It will be turned up once we have the electronic VNT controller built and throw my ct16v turbo on it. ATM the ct20 is just a piece of shit lol
On old 2L no plug or don’t do stuff
That's about 21 :1 compression , that's a pass in my book . Next time take your Injesters out instead , glow plugs can snap .
Common rail, some don't use glow plugs
If your having a cold start problem, why would you not test it cold.
The big stuff for injectors not big Glowplugs the long one for Benz van / truck spinner because Diesel engine some can’t Access the glow plugs because easy take injectors
100k or more change the glow plugs then you change the timing same
Hey man, I did a compression test on mine yesterday and got readings of about 470-500psi across each cylinder over 3 series of tests with about 10-12 turns. I’ve just been doing some further research and checked manuals and they recommend that you depress the accelerator pedal and only do 4 turns when testing because it should be done in as little time as possible. I thought mine would be fine considering it’s still reaching 480 psi but after doing some further research I’m thinking I might not have done the test correctly and need to do it again because the issue would be that the engine is slow to build compression. What’s ur thoughts on that?
Yes generally you always compression test with throttle open (more so on petrol engines) but applies to diesels that still have a throttle plate. I've removed my throttle plate so that's why I didn't.
But yeah you don't want to crank it for an unrealistic amount of time. 4 seconds or so is about what I usually do. Just keep each cylinder consistent I think is the main thing as you're mainly looking for any deviation between the cylinders
@@boostedbuiltgarage ah cool that makes sense then.
Yeah I probably cranked for a bit longer than that but each cylinder was pretty consistent and I guess the main thing I was looking for was bad compression in any of the cylinder shut they all reached the same amount in about the same time so I reckon I should be sweet.
I think the issue is that after a few compressions, the air inside is beginning to get hot, which raises the pressure. I was taught to test the pressure at the coldest possible point (first one, second or third stokes, max), to get the purest possible reading. There is a YT video of someone who got 70psi on cylinder No. 1 on the first reading, but over 200 psi on the same cylinder on a warm test, a minute later.
🤣 Ah, yes, the Lockdown hair period.