Holley Carb Tuning Secrets Revealed!- Part 2 | How to Tune A Holley Carburetor Tips And Tricks |
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- Today we will be going over the second part of the super tuning a holley carburetor series. in this video we are going over every tuning aspect when it comes to the secondary side of the holley 4150 and 4160 style carburetors. The holley carburetor has been a performance staple but it has been plagued by bad information spread around by people who simply do not know how to tune their carbs. Holley carburetors are know for running rich, leaking fuel and difficult to tune. The question then becomes, if the holley is such a terrible carburetor, then why is it the go to carburetor when it comes to performance? Why is it that 90% of professionals choose to run a carburetor that runs bad and is hard to tune? What is it that they know and we do not know? The answer is right in front of us. If the holley was so bad, it wouldnt be the number 1 race carb and there wouldnt be so many holley clones on the market today. I will show you exactly what it takes to get your carb from zero all the way to hero.
Holley Carb Tuning Secrets Revealed!- Part 1 | How to Tune A Holley Carburetor Tips And Tricks |
#holley #holleycarb #holleycarbsecrets 
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For those of you who missed part 1, here it is: ruclips.net/video/TydHDNYTaoc/видео.html
Excellent video, very helpful. Thank you for taking the time making it.
Thank you sir! I really appreciate it!
Awesome video👍😎👍 I just keep learning more and more from your videos. I have a Holley 850 DP on my ZZ502 and I installed a wideband AFR last year. I am on the rich side around 12.3 -12.5 cruising at 50 to 60 on straight road hardly on the pedal. I keep watching some of your videos over and over as I try to understand what you say. When I get on it while I'm cruising like I mentioned above WOT from say 50 it dips just a bit to 12 and stays like that. I will be messing with my carb in the spring as I'm in the North East. I will start the car up run a full tank down and put in fresh fuel then it's game on🤣 I am going to try to get my AFR close to 14 +/- while cruising and high 12's to low 13's at WOT (please correct me if I'm mistaken on those #'s). Thanks for your videos and keep them coming👍
First, you need to make sure what circuit you are in. At 50-60 you could be in the main cuircuit or you could be in the transition. To make sure, you can hold 70mph instead and take your readings from there. If youre in the 12s at 70 you can go smaller on the primary jets. After you set that, you can check what it does when the power valve opens up and then work on the secondaires after that. Cruise you want to be around 13.5-14. In the Power valve you want to be around 13 and at wot around 12.5
I love this video. Very systematic. Thanks very much
Thanks man, I appreciate it 👍
Maybe I'm stupid...(no doubt), but This is all so confusing. I appreciate all the help and have learned a lot. BUT... Could you please give an "if this is what is happening then check this video series".
Example. I'm cruising at 12.4 afr. at 1800 or 2500rpms. Do I continue to lean jets, or look at my air bleeds? Both? When do I actually need to work with the metering blocks and power valve restrictors, and emulsion holes, and when to buy adjustable aftermarket ones?
In other words, with each part of the pyramid, give steps on how to do the task. I love carbs and really want to learn more. What to do and when to do it. So much to learn. I built a 750 annular carb and this is a lot of fun!!
You are an awesome teacher. Thanks for taking the time to help us all. You are developing a cultish following here!!!
Hi Justin, first off, no one is stupid because they don't know something. Sometimes you just need to hear it a different way, I know I did. Second, I actually have individual videos explaining each circuit individually. Theyre older videos and not as good so I plan to redo them but they explain 1 specific circuit per video. Lastly, learning each circuit as you go up the pyramid is the best way to learn how to tune the whole thing so if youve already checked fuel pressure, float level and timing the next step is to change the jets. Theres a reason I didn't mention air bleeds because 99% of the time, the bleeds are fine as they are. Ive never had to change any bleeds on any of my carbs.
@@NightWrencher Thank You! you are awesome!!!
@@justinchristiano7928 You sound like a really nice person, man. Just remember that God doesn't create stupid people. 👍✝️
Were you able to lean out your low speed cruise AFR and if you did how did you do it? I have same problem, good AFR at idle 14 but low speed 2000rpm or less AFR is rich 12.5-13.plugs look rich too.
Great video. I have an issue with my carb. I had it dialed in and running great for 6 or so months. Now I’m getting an issue with going really rich (9-10 AFR). It usually happens at the top of a wot pull or just as I come off of the throttle. Sometimes it stalls out, or it stumbles for a few seconds, then catches up. My cruising AFR is around 12.5-13.5. As I give it gas, steadily it will go to14’s. WOT pull will be mostly in that 12-13.5 range, then at some point it goes really rich. It’s a Proform 750 race carb on a 355. Just put a new DUI coil and module in. It got a little better, but does still do it. Any ideas?? I’m out of any more. TIA
Hey man, just saw your message. I would try a higher number(or 2) power valve and then jet down the secondaries a few jets that way you start off richer in the initial pull but then the secondaries won't go too rich after they pick up enough signal. But this would be in high gear or one below high gear. If you're testing in 1st gear, itll tend to read rich since there is less load against the motor but the power valve tip would still apply.
Awesome video's. Been watching most of your Holley videos, but I don't see one for Emulsion Tuning, is there one? Tough to find anything on the subject. I recently went from a 750 Ultra DP'r on a new 445 Ford Stroker build to an 850 Track Warrior. I wanted the Track Warrior for the Square Bore, no choke, radius intake, and tunable metering blocks. Extra CFM, course... The 750 seemed a bit small. The 750 Ultra was pretty simple to tune... dropped the primary main one size (73 to 72), went from a 65 to 75 PV, and drilled the IFR from .030 to .034. DONE! This 850 Track Master is made for God knows what? HUGE mains (86/94), low-pull PV at 45, so not sure what it was dialed in on, but the fuel curve is WAYYY off for my 445. It has this massive flat spot at 20-30% throttle where it goes from 12.8 AFR to 15.5 AFR. If I hold the throttle in that position it just stays lean! Obviously I don't do that for more than a second or two..! I changed the PV to a 65, 75, and now 85, trying to bring it in early, which it did, but the massive flat spot stays. I changed the PVCR's from a .070 to a .075, no change. Changing the primary mains from the 86 all the way down to a 78 doesn't do anything either. Flat spot remains. So, I'm coming to the conclusion the emulsion jet stack is bad for my motor, but I have no idea what to do. Weird thing is, both the primary and secondary metering block have the exact same jet stack, so I'm wondering if someone at the Holley factory messed up..? This is the worst Holley fuel curve I've ever experienced, so...? Anyway, the stack is (4) .029's from the bottom to the top, the 2nd position being plugged, so .029, PLUG, .029, .029, .029. Reading about changing the mid-range (20-30% throttle), I think I'm suppose to plug position (3)..? and maybe add that 'area' taken away to position (5) (top)...? The reason I say that is, at 5-10% steady throttle at 2000rpm is pretty rich (12.2 AFR) (50MPH cruise), again, changing the mains from 86 to 78 didn't change anything down low, or in the mid-range. I've read you want to keep the emulsion jet 'area' the same, don't add or take-away, so keep that (4) .029 area? My HSB is size 34. Not much info on the affect of changing the HSB's either. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hey man, it sounds like youve got yourself a handful of issues with your new carb. How did you determine that you needed a Bigger one? For 5 port emulsion stacks I always set mine up X .028 X .028 X . .029 is close enough but maybe try that stack? When the tune is that far out from the factory, you'll struggle quite a bit to reel it back in but it can be done. I usually pick a carb based on factory jetting and go a hair smaller because its always easier to drill up than to plug it and go smaller.
@@NightWrencher I wanted to dump the choke, because I really don't need one where I live and it was just causing issues, so instead of going to a 750 Track Warrior I thought I'd try the 850. Top end does seem insane with the 850 compared to the 750, but that could be because of the square bore/no choke flow dynamics..? Drive-ability seems fine down low, it's just this flat spot in the power curve. Really weird. I'm going to call Holley to see if my 'cal' is off, maybe it was built wrong because it's really bad! So, no good video's you know of for tuning emulsion jets..? I found some articles that explain what the different positions do, but that's about it. From bottom to top, bottom being closest to the main jet, the holes progressively affect the power curve, so the bottom hole leans top end, the middle hole leans mid-range, and the top hole leans low-end. The 2nd and 4th holes blend the curve. Is that correct? A video would be awesome! I'm kinda surprised there's no videos. Holley should really have something!
Believe it or not, holley doesnt want you to actually mod their carbs. Even if you call the tech line, its unlikely that they will know what to do to get your tune right. The emulsion circuit is really complicated and not a lot of people are interested in niche topics like that so thats why I assumr there arnt any issues with it. I think running an HP center section in your 750 is also an option if you ever want to go back. Have you tried just going with a smaller HSAB and rejetting the primaries?
@@NightWrencher I just spent 3 hours on the phone with Holley. Yeah, they don't know much about emulsion bleeds. I did have them look up the specs on my 850 Track Warrior, 850 Ultra XP, and 750 Track Warrior, just to see what the Bleed Jet stacks are in all 3, they're the same as what I have - .029, X, .029, .029, .029, the only thing that differed was the IFR and IAB, which were minor, like .002" difference. So, this tells me the emulsion jetting should be close. I think there might be an issue with the PV circuit, like maybe it's not opening, but Holley says there's no way to test. I've tried a 45, 55, 65, 75, and 85 PV, same lean result. The Holley guy said to jet all the way back to the stock 86 jet (I'm at a 78 now) and put the 45 PV back in. So basically, it's like going to no PV and just running off the main. I'm already at 12.2 AFR at 50MPH (2000 rpm), so I can only imagine what I'll be at on an 86. The other thing that does lean out lower RPM is opening the primary and secondary butterflies at idle, like the manual says to. If I do that, the idle mixture screws require another 1/8 turn out at idle, but cruise does get leaner. I haven't tried this at 50MPH with the 86 main. I don't want to wash the cylinders as this is a new motor.