Wow , great explanation, my hubby is happy now to be able to fine tune his buddys 327 tunnel ram carbs. He has also learned alo about carbs. From Andy, David, and uncle Tonys Garage , exellent presentation, thanks !
Living in Detroit in the 60s was fun... Holly sold to colt industry in late 60s. My father wore a suit to work n wore coveralls to protect it.. we would go to Pike's peak in the summer n do altitude tests. My father was a design engineer n got many
So rad Tyler,AKA the TUNE KING ! Math sucks but you make it easy! love all your knowledge of your tuning skills, totally helps me tune my 4150 double pumper 750 !!!! Tyler ROCKS !!!! Thanks for another tune king video!!!!
These videos are helping me tune my Eldebrock VRS 4150 - I am a bit fat but the transitions are good. I have blocked off the rear PV and will be down jetting the fronts by 2 and see how that goes. The metering plates on this new carb are crasy and they have 4 air bleeds on each bore of the carb. its crazy - I love it!
Great video! I love all your videos. Your technical analysis of Holley carburetors is great. However, you can make a Holley run very well with both power valves blocked off. I've been doing that for 20+ years. If you have an engine that makes 5-6 inches of vacuum, you will have trouble running power valve. Even a 2.5 will cause a massive rich condition when you part throttle accelerate. You can run no power valve and never have an issue with loading up. Non of my cars load up or have any issues with no power valve. I've never experienced loading up. If you are loading up, you are jetted too rich or have other issues. Although, fuel economy will suffer a bit with no power valve. You can lose a couple mpg but if you have a hot street car, you don't care about mileage. If you have a mild engine and cross country the car, I'd definitely run a power valve as long as you don't have much overlap and at least 10 inches of vacuum. The power valve will help with economy.
great video i have a blueprint 540 /700 hp big cam tight overlap fouling plugs holley 850 df dp .80 jets front and rear no power valve in rear what i have done took vac at idle 5.5 in powervalve from new is 6.5 in changed powervalve to 3.5 front jets to .78 running better does not seam to be loading up at idle not running as rich anything else you think i can do would appreciate it thanks matt dell
Heres one for you... Im running the lt1 on the stock cam with a 650 brawler. Ive got it pretty well tuned and followed a lot of your videos but... because its the stock cam Im pulling 25hg when im off the gas say going down a hill. I see my 02 gauge going lean and it pops and bangs out the exhaust. If i fatten up the jets it cures it, but then my cruise is 12:1 and im seeing 10:1 under hard acceleration. I may see 15/16 off throttle and no pops. Im running a t56 aswell so there are times im on hardly any throttle or possibly even off throttle going down hill. My idle vacuum is about 21hg. Now im leaning towards idle airbleeds so that i can fatten up my idle circuit but not kill the rest of the tune. Im on 70/74 jets btw vac secondary. Perhaps a vid on air bleeds? Not the ones in the metering block but the removable ones in a brawler? I dont want to buy the air bleed jets yet because shipping to England hurts! Peace
Your videos have been an absolute life saver man!! Honestly there great, full of great stuff that’s helped me a lot!! Would you have any idea what would help a lean condition at wto on a two step?? Thank you for any advice
The larger the low speed it will introduce more air at part throttle from what I have messed with. High speed will effect upper rpm range at WOT same deal the larger the more air will mix like shaking up a soda and opening it.
I have a 750 proform double pumper. Got a ton of carbs actually. Those purple throttle bodies i cant get them to cruise right. Its something with transition slots on them. Il slap a stock holley one on. Lean spike at cruise goes away. Ive also discovered that the idle jet in billet main blocks being higher up causes revision and afr wil bounce around everywhere. Stock blocks got jet low and dont do that
Then you get in to the air bleeds and they too can change the af mixture, in the front or rear or both. For something that so simple, the carburetor is pretty complex.
I would have been tuning with a wideband since they came out. I would like to discuss this subject and give you some ideas on the Ph. How do I contact you?
I understand the conversions to area but was always my understanding that the advertised numbers of jets were related to its actual flow, not area. So would using area as your factor for squaring things up not deviate from flow being equal which is the intended goal?
I'm having some problems with my ATM 950.i can't get the idle to 12.5 to13.then when pushing the pedal down slowly the afr goes leaner as the pedal goes down to the floor afr is 21 at the floor popping out ex.can u point me in the right direction.
HeyTyler, I got a question. I was able to able to get my AFR to 14 at cruise but after driving for 5 miles or so it goes pig rich like down into the 10s at cruise and idle. Any suggestions ? This 750 4150 DP has got me baffled. Also went w/a Proform main body a while back and the proform logo is on the passage side . I believe its mirrored on both sides but not sure if it matters or not.Thanks Britt.
Since except under spicy acceleration the secondaries are not even open why would you want to square up the jetting? Seems like maybe you want the front side larger because it alone is feeding the 8 cylinders.
Why bother squaring the jets?? If it works fine with a power valve, and 10 jet sizes difference between the front and rear (like it comes from the factory) then just LEAVE it that way.... 🤷
Wow , great explanation, my hubby is happy now to be able to fine tune his buddys 327 tunnel ram carbs. He has also learned alo about carbs. From Andy, David, and uncle Tonys Garage , exellent presentation, thanks !
The wheeler walker Jr Hat .. cool !!
And nice video i learned and loved it ..
The engineer who designed the carburetor was smart. He used a sliderule. I remember as it was my father. They were smart guys my dad n his friends.
Living in Detroit in the 60s was fun... Holly sold to colt industry in late 60s. My father wore a suit to work n wore coveralls to protect it.. we would go to Pike's peak in the summer n do altitude tests. My father was a design engineer n got many
Carbs have been around since the 1880's. You must be over 100 years old?
So rad Tyler,AKA the TUNE KING ! Math sucks but you make it easy! love all your knowledge of your tuning skills, totally helps me tune my 4150 double pumper 750 !!!! Tyler ROCKS !!!! Thanks for another tune king video!!!!
I am no King for sure. Plenty of way more talented carb guys out there. I just share information that may help the DIY community. 🤙
These videos are helping me tune my Eldebrock VRS 4150 - I am a bit fat but the transitions are good. I have blocked off the rear PV and will be down jetting the fronts by 2 and see how that goes. The metering plates on this new carb are crasy and they have 4 air bleeds on each bore of the carb. its crazy - I love it!
great presentation, clear and understandable. A+ score, liked and subscribed!
Great video! I love all your videos. Your technical analysis of Holley carburetors is great. However, you can make a Holley run very well with both power valves blocked off. I've been doing that for 20+ years. If you have an engine that makes 5-6 inches of vacuum, you will have trouble running power valve. Even a 2.5 will cause a massive rich condition when you part throttle accelerate. You can run no power valve and never have an issue with loading up. Non of my cars load up or have any issues with no power valve. I've never experienced loading up. If you are loading up, you are jetted too rich or have other issues. Although, fuel economy will suffer a bit with no power valve. You can lose a couple mpg but if you have a hot street car, you don't care about mileage. If you have a mild engine and cross country the car, I'd definitely run a power valve as long as you don't have much overlap and at least 10 inches of vacuum. The power valve will help with economy.
I drill every carb for 4 corner idle. I built a 1850 with cathedral bowls. 4 corner idle. Best meetering carb ive ever seen
Great content!!
Good information! Thanks!
I'm working on some older
Holleys # 3160s
But timing in and thanks !!!
Awesome.. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
So first, we find the jetting our engine needs with the A/F gauge. Then doing the math to find the right size PVR. Am I correct?
Cool il have to watch it when I get there
great info, thanks for explaining it in detail.
No problem brother 👍
great video i have a blueprint 540 /700 hp big cam tight overlap fouling plugs holley 850 df dp .80 jets front and rear no power valve in rear what i have done took vac at idle 5.5 in
powervalve from new is 6.5 in changed powervalve to 3.5 front jets to .78 running better
does not seam to be loading up at idle not running as rich anything else you think i can do would appreciate it thanks matt dell
Thank you for this
Heres one for you... Im running the lt1 on the stock cam with a 650 brawler. Ive got it pretty well tuned and followed a lot of your videos but... because its the stock cam Im pulling 25hg when im off the gas say going down a hill. I see my 02 gauge going lean and it pops and bangs out the exhaust. If i fatten up the jets it cures it, but then my cruise is 12:1 and im seeing 10:1 under hard acceleration. I may see 15/16 off throttle and no pops. Im running a t56 aswell so there are times im on hardly any throttle or possibly even off throttle going down hill. My idle vacuum is about 21hg. Now im leaning towards idle airbleeds so that i can fatten up my idle circuit but not kill the rest of the tune. Im on 70/74 jets btw vac secondary. Perhaps a vid on air bleeds? Not the ones in the metering block but the removable ones in a brawler? I dont want to buy the air bleed jets yet because shipping to England hurts! Peace
Your videos have been an absolute life saver man!! Honestly there great, full of great stuff that’s helped me a lot!! Would you have any idea what would help a lean condition at wto on a two step?? Thank you for any advice
That was real good info
Good description! Question, how does the air bleeds affect the part throttle AFR?
Idle air IAB
High speed air HSB
The larger the low speed it will introduce more air at part throttle from what I have messed with. High speed will effect upper rpm range at WOT same deal the larger the more air will mix like shaking up a soda and opening it.
I have a 750 proform double pumper. Got a ton of carbs actually. Those purple throttle bodies i cant get them to cruise right. Its something with transition slots on them. Il slap a stock holley one on. Lean spike at cruise goes away. Ive also discovered that the idle jet in billet main blocks being higher up causes revision and afr wil bounce around everywhere. Stock blocks got jet low and dont do that
Then you get in to the air bleeds and they too can change the af mixture, in the front or rear or both. For something that so simple, the carburetor is pretty complex.
I would have been tuning with a wideband since they came out. I would like to discuss this subject and give you some ideas on the Ph. How do I contact you?
I understand the conversions to area but was always my understanding that the advertised numbers of jets were related to its actual flow, not area.
So would using area as your factor for squaring things up not deviate from flow being equal which is the intended goal?
Yeah it's not perfect, the only way to know for sure is to flow them. But for us DIY guys it's just a good way to get an idea what's going on.
I'm having some problems with my ATM 950.i can't get the idle to 12.5 to13.then when pushing the pedal down slowly the afr goes leaner as the pedal goes down to the floor afr is 21 at the floor popping out ex.can u point me in the right direction.
I'm stuck with a smoking when shut off and flooding the moter at the moment.
Slapping a 600 CFM or a 800 CFM on a 327 What difrance does it make ???
Whitch power valve for a stock 454 with 16 inch vacuum
Holly 770
HeyTyler, I got a question. I was able to able to get my AFR to 14 at cruise but after driving for 5 miles or so it goes pig rich like down into the 10s at cruise and idle. Any suggestions ? This 750 4150 DP has got me baffled. Also went w/a Proform main body a while back and the proform logo is on the passage side . I believe its mirrored on both sides but not sure if it matters or not.Thanks Britt.
When at 14, is engine warmed up?
Hey man if you want to add the same number to itself there’s a magic formula called x2. 😮
Since except under spicy acceleration the secondaries are not even open why would you want to square up the jetting? Seems like maybe you want the front side larger because it alone is feeding the 8 cylinders.
Man I got loss on that pie r square stuff. I’ll just guess at it.😅
I want me an ATM carb
Can't go wrong with them.
👀💪🏾💯
Power Valves... Street Only.
Almost like you know what your doing lol
Fake it until you do! 🤣
The power valve has ABSOLUTELY ZERO to do “with your idle conditions” unless it’s ruptured…
Big difference between idle and cruising I think you may have misunderstood what I said.
Why bother squaring the jets?? If it works fine with a power valve, and 10 jet sizes difference between the front and rear (like it comes from the factory) then just LEAVE it that way.... 🤷
Probably if you were to pay attention to the video that some of it has to do with performance and racing, that is why squaring the Jets helps